UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII • COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE • HOME ECONOMICS CIRCULAR 3

ABOUT CHINESE FOODS

KATHRYN J. ORR Foods and Nutrition Specialist

HELEN C. GASCON Extension Home Economist LEASURE IN food has been part of Cantonese school of is the best known the Chinese culture for centuries. outside China, because the Cantonese people Until the twentieth century, there were the travelers, the emigrants, who came to IIwere no recorded recipes of the the Western world. With wealth and leisure , and then only in Western a cuisine characterized by sauteing, , countries. In China, cooking is done by feel and was developed. Fried rice and and by taste, and its secrets are passed on from fried noodles are specialties of this school. one generation to another. Since it is the­ The Fukien people were the sailors of method of cooking that is basic, rather than the China and settled in Thailand, Malaya, and ingredients used, most Chinese dishes can be Southeast Asia. This cuisine is characterized by cooked with foodstuffs we use in America every good all-around cooking, although many com­ day of the year. plain that too many soupy dishes are included The differences between Chinese and in its repertoire, A red fermented bean Western cooking are many. Among the most is a specialty of Foochow and the best soy noticeable is that in Chinese cooking, the bite­ sauce used to be produced in this part of the sized pieces of meat and vegetables are sea­ country. soned while cooking; but in Western cooking, Shantung produced philosophers and good the meat and vegetables are cut into larger cooking! As Peking was nearby, many people pieces or left whole. Pepper and salt are fre­ of Shantung migrated to the big city and took quently added at the table. their cooking with them. This food is lighter Another difference between the Chinese than that of the South. Much is cooked in wine and Western modes of cooking is that in sauce and very little sauteing is done. The Chinese dishes the meat and vegetables are most famous dish from this region is Peking cooked together, thus allowing a small amount Duck. of meat to go a long way. In Western cooking, Honan was once the capital of China, so with some exceptions such as and cas­ good cooking was demanded by the court. It serole dishes, the meat and vegetables are is the home of the sweet-and-sour dishes. The cooked separately but eaten together. carp from the Yellow River is famous. Communication in China, or rather the lack Until Chungking became a temporary of it, put its stamp on the cooking of the people. capital, Szechuan in the far west had been left In general, five distinct types of cuisine devel­ to its own devices. Its summers are terribly hot, oped through the centuries, those of Canton, and like all people who live in hot climates, Fukien, Shantung, Honan, and Szechuan. The the Szechuanese developed a hot, very highly- seasoned cuisine. Chicken with hot peppers means "quick little ones." "Quick" stems from is a good example. pidgin English meaning "chop." Thus the name Five main methods of preparing food in the "chopsticks" came into being. Chinese manner are common to all five schools: The dining table for a Chinese meal is gen~ they are sauteing, red cooking (a kind of erally round, because it permits placing each or stewing with , known as diner at the same distance from the center hung shao in Chinese), , where the food is placed and affords a time of and roasting, and barbecuing or grilling. relaxation for pleasant conversation. ChineSe cooking utensils deserve some There are two distinct styles of serving attention. Old Chinese stoves were built of Chinese menus-the family style and the party concrete, tile, and brick. They were conical style. The dishes may be the same for either. with an opening on top. Similar stoves of a At a family-style meal the main dishes and soup portable type known as "chatties" were devised are placed in the middle of the table and a for the poorer people. bowl of rice served to each diner. Each person Today, gas is more popular than electricity serves himself a little food at a time. The for Chinese cooking because the Hame can be dishes are never passed. At a party-style meal, controlled instantly. In Hawaii, a gas stove can each course is placed on the table one at a be adjusted to a typical "Chinese Harne." time and passed to the guests. Toasts may be Upon entering a Chinese kitchen, the first oHered by the host between courses, or a guest eye-catcher is the cooking utensil known as a may toast the host and thank him for his party. wok (called kuo in China). It is a cooking When the meal comes to an end, it is the guest pan with rounded bottom which allows for of honor who makes the nrst move. The other even heat and has no comers to clean! You guests slowly follow suit, and the host leaves can use it for sauteing, cooking in small or the table last. large amounts of water, for deep frying, and as the base for a steamer. A vegetable cutting CIDNESE FOODS knife similar to a cleaver is indispensable in MENU a Chinese kitchen. With a sharp one, you can chop bones, scale fish, and mince meat. The SAl YONG CHOY TONG chopping block is the most picturesque thing in (Watercress Abalone Pork Soup) a Chinese kitchen. It is usually 16 to 18 inches WUT GAl in diameter. Additional tools would be a pan­ (Pot Roast Chicken) cake-like turner, wooden dippers for water and NCO YUK FAN KAY liquids, China spoons, and chopsticks for stir­ (Beef Tomato) ring and tasting. Colanders and sieves are use­ ful, too. GEE YUK SIN CHOY (Pork with Sour Cabbage) Chopsticks are the utensils one uses for FAN eating. They are made of silver, ivory, bamboo, (Rice) wood, or plastic; are about 10 inches long and CHA about the thickness of a pencil. These two (Tea) pieces of wood take the place of egg beaters, cooking forks, mixing spoons, draining spoons, ALMOND COOKIE and wire whisks. "Chopsticks" in Chinese SAl YONG CHOY TONG NGO YUK FAN KAY (Watercress Abalone Pork Soup) (Beef Tomato) 6 servings 6 servings 1 bunch or 1 pound V2 pound lean pork, 1 pound of sirloin tip, 2 stalks of celery, sliced watercress sliced Va-inch thick sliced Vs-inch thick Oil for frying 2 tablespoons oU 5 cups water 2 teaspoons ~ornstarch 2 teaspoons cornstarch Salt to taste 1 can abalone, cut in 3 tablespoons soy sauce J,.4 cup cold water lf2 teaspoon monosodium thin slices 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon sugar glutamate Pinch of salt V2 teaspoon monosodium Dash or two of pepper glutamate Wash watercress, discard yellow or damaged V2 teaspoon monosodium Salt and pepper to taste portions. Pick off leaves and cut stems into 2-inch glutamate 3 or 4 tomatoes, cut into lengths. Heat oil, add salt and monosodium gluta­ 2 tablespoons oil wedges mate, and saute pork. When slightly brown, add 1 clove garlic, chopped 3 or 4 sprigs of green water and bring to boil. Add watercress stems and fine (optional) onions, cut into 2·inch cook 5 more minutes. Remove from heat, add abalone 1 round onion, sliced strips and watercress leaves, and serve. 2 green peppers, sliced

Marinate sliced sirloin tip in sauce made from next seven ingredients. Let stand 10 to 15 minutes. If garlic is used, brown in small amount of oil in frying pan. Add marinated beef and fry very lightly until hot and meat changes color. Push meat to outer edge WUT GAl of pan and add a little more oil. Cook round onion, (Pot Roast Chicken) green peppers, and celery for 5 minutes. Do NOT 4 to 6 servings overcook these vegetables. 1 2-or-3-pound whole 2 tablespoons sugar Make a paste of 2 teaspoons cornstarch and ~ cup frying chicken Salt and pepper to taste cold water. Stir in next three ingredients. Add to 1 cup soy sauce J,.4 cup oil beef and vegetables and stir until sauce clears. Add 2 cloves of garlic, 1 sprig Chinese parsley, tomatoes and green onions last. Remove from heat crushed chopped (fresh and serve. 1 small piece (walnut coriander) size) fresh ginger, 2 green onions, cut in 2· crushed inch strips lf2 teaspoon monosodium glutamate

Marinate chicken in soy sauce mixture prepared from next six ingredients 1 hour before cooking, turn­ ing occasionally. Remove chicken and reserve sauce. Heat oil in a large pot and brown chicken on all sides. Pour reserved sauce over chicken and simmer for 45 minutes. Remove chicken and cut in serving pieces. Pour remainder of sauce over chicken to serve. Top with chopped parsley and green onions. GEE YUK SIN CHOY (Pork with Sour Cabbage) ALMOND COOKIES 6 servings 4~ dozen 34 pound pork, sliced 2 teaspoons sugar 3 cups flour 1 cup sugar lis-inch thick, bite size 2 tablespoons vinegar 1 teaspoon soda 11/3 cups shortening Oil for frying Vz teaspoon monosodium liz teaspoon salt Blanched almonds or 1 stalk celery, sliced glutamate 1 large egg red coloring 1 round onion, sliced Salt and pepper to taste 1 teaspoon almond 1 pound sour cabbag~ 2 teaspoons cornstarch extract sliced % cup water 2 tablespoons soy sauce Sift Hour, soda, and salt together. Beat egg with fork until lemon-colored and add almond extract. Fry pork in oil until tender. Add celery and onion. Cream sugar and shortening well, add egg, and mix Cook for a few minutes and add next six ingredients. thoroughly. Add sifted dry ingredients gradually. Roll Make a paste of 2 teaspoons of cornstarch in ~ cup into balls about 1 inch in diameter and place an inch water and add to cabbage mixture. Cook until sauce apart on greased cookie sheet. Press thumb gently in is clear and serve. center top of each ball. Fill depression with half a blanched almond, or touch it with the end of a chop­ stick dipped in red coloring. Bake 20 minutes at 350°F. For celebrations, a drop of red coloring put °SOUR CABBAGE (Prepare day before use) in the center of each cookie signifies joy and good fortune. Yield: 1 quart

2 quarts boiled and Water to cover cabbage cooled water 2 large mustard cabbage 1 tablespoon vinegar or 1 large solid head Ijz cup rock or Hawaiian cabbage salt 2 tablespoons cooked rice

Mix boiled and cooled water, vinegar, and salt for vinegar brine. Wash cabbage and set aside to drain. In a large pot bring a large amount of water to a rolling boil; remove from heat and add cabbage. Let stand until cabbage turns a bright green. Drain and cool. Add cabbage to vinegar brine.

FOR USE IN 24 HOURS: Add 2 tablespoons cooked rice to cabbage mixture. Top with a weight to keep cabbage submerged in REFERENCES brine. Let stand at room temperature to ferment. Drain off liquid and use cabbage. 1. The Art of Chinese Cooking. Mimie Ouei. Random House, 1960. FOR GENERAL USE: 2. Fun with Chinese Recipes. Myrtle Lurn Young. Vantage Press, Inc., 1958. Omit rice and let cabbage stand in brine 3 to 4 3. Mary Sia's Chinese Cookbook. University of days to ferment. Remove fermented cabbage from Hawaii Press, University of Hawaii, Honolulu, liquid and place in jars or plastic containers. Store Hawaii, 1959. in refrigerator until used. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agri­ culture, and Director and Interim Dean Noel P. Kefford, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources, University of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, Hawaii 96822. An Equal Opportunity Employer providing programs and services to the Citizens of Hawaii without regard to race, color, national origin or sex. HEC 341-Reprinted 0781/3M