Great Rides

In the South American summer, Ed Merrison and Elizabeth Clancy set out to explore Argentina’s Lake District A shore thing

Snow on the way from its throbbing football stands packed panniers fit for an Everest attempt. We aimed for mountain tops at the start of summer is and the dusty floors of its tango halls, it’s four days of easy riding, but summer here is unpredictable a reminder of how easy to find solitude in Argentina. It’s the and night-time temperatures can drop to freezing. We cold Argentina’s Lake District can get eighth largest country in the world and in rode out of town into a chill breeze, while clouds hovered, much of that land is pretty wild. undecided, over distant mountains. We opted against AOn paper, Argentina’s Lake District in summer is a the lakeside road, instead tackling the initial climb in the sure thing. The region is made up of mountain, lake shade of southern beeches, cypresses and conifers before and forest scenery and offers every activity under the rejoining the paved road near the ski resort of Chapelco. sun, establishing itself long ago as the playground of Cattle speckled the high plains and mountains loomed. the nation’s elite. But you ignore at your peril the wind’s Smoke billowed from the chimney of a rust-red Welsh chilling reminder: This is Patagonia! And you need to farmhouse – remote yet familiar, like the memory of Bruce remember that wilderness is fine until the only audible Chatwin’s exiles. We wound our way past Lakes Escondido, sound is that of your wife hitting The Wall. Hermoso and Machónico and entered Argentina’s oldest and most popular national park, Nahuel Huapi. Welsh farmhouses By now the clouds had made up their mind. The wind The Route of the Seven Lakes runs just 112km from San blew their rain horizontal, a barrage of icy darts lashing Martín de los to Villa La Angostura in the province our bowed heads as we pedalled towards Lake Falkner, 32 of Neuquén. We decided to supplement this with a ride miles from San Martín. A campground shack was being around the district’s centrepiece lake to the thriving city of renovated for the high season – too late for us. The wind San Carlos de , 80km further south. San Martín is billowed the tent as we sat shivering in our sleeping bags. a stylish mountain town of pine-fronted boutiques sitting at 650 metres on the shores of deep-blue Lake Lácar and Climbing over The Wall beneath the forested hills of Lanín National Park. My surprise at waking next morning to find we hadn’t

The morning sun seeped through riverside trees as we been blown into the lake was matched by the pleasure of All photos: Elizabeth Clancy

october/november 2009 cycle 29 Great Rides argentina

seeing Falkner’s softer side. Its surface to pelt along the last 12km to La glistened silver with the promise of Angostura. Like San Martín, this sun, while the slopes above glowed town of alpine architecture combines with a fresh lick of snow. wealth and taste with a laidback vibe. From Falkner we passed Lake It is a sublime spot to take a day’s rest, Villarino and lost the tarmac, twisting mend relationships and toast the end through the woods on a surface that of the Seven Lakes route. alternated between gravel, mud and La Angostura is home to Los dust. Further down the line, men at Arrayanes National Park and its work stood around, part of a long- hiking trails among cinnamon- held promise to pave this stretch of barked arrayán trees and panoramic road. There was little action; locals views of the lake. The port also has said not to hold our breath. two bays, the ‘brava’ (wild) and Passing cars were few and far ‘mansa’ (tame), where jetties amble between. Birds sang, riders panted, across diaphanous blue towards the and pebbles crunched under tyres. gleaming crowns of the Andes. These sounds were all that disrupted Back on the bikes, we passed the the peace. But the legs got heavier idyllic bay of Puerto Manzano to and, with them, the panting. The need curve around the northern shore to refuel became urgent. My decision of Lake Nahuel Huapi. Traffic was to don the national football shirt drew heavier along this stretch, but the Fact file Argentina’s much-needed encouragement from views across our shoulder meant we Lake District the odd passing carload of natives. hardly noticed. The flower-edged But all the cheers in the world weren’t road rose and fell over a turquoise so where: San Martín de los Andes is 1,000 miles southwest of Buenos Aires, close to going to save us when we ground up clear we could trace the patterned Argentina’s border with . one rocky climb too many around bark of trees fallen to the lakebed. when: The Lake District is very popular Lake Correntoso. For an entire morning, the scenery from mid-December to early February. The question of where to shop in constantly rivalled the world’s finest Just either side of this peak period is the wilderness is a tricky one, as is the waterfront trails. best time to visit. matter of how to salvage a cycle trip Once we rounded the lake’s eastern Getting there: British Airways (www. when the metaphorical wheels start edge, we turned southwest into Rio britishairways.com) flies direct from falling off. My only hope was a sign for Negro province to knock off the London to Buenos Aires for about £860 a 2km do-or-die detour to a campsite last 20km to Bariloche. Set in prime return including taxes. Aerolineas on Lake Espejo Chico (‘Little Mirror’). mountain-biking country, Bariloche (www.aerolineas.com) flies from Buenos Aires to San Martin de los A red herring, perhaps? For the sake of combines all the services of a city Andes for £220 return. my health and marriage, I hoped not. with every possibility of outdoor bikes: Dirty Bikes (www.dirtybikes.com. We arrived at the lake to find the adventure. ar) in Bariloche has MTBs for £15 per store open. We swapped handfuls On its bustling shores we sat to day, with panniers an extra £5 per day. of pesos for armfuls of junk food contemplate the lakes, mountains, Bikes can be sent to San Martín for £10. and stumbled to the shore. As highs and lows we’d been through. accomodation: The towns have sugar zipped through our veins, we Strange how, with belly full and local abundant accommodation options for all sprawled on the grass and breathed in ale in hand, our perspective had budgets. Basic camping is also available the surroundings. Paradise regained. altered. The highs still loomed large in alongside many of the lakes. The more our memories, like the Andes, while sophisticated sites start at £3 per person. Language: Spanish. English is widely Journey’s end the lows were as transient and trifling spoken. Wind in our sails, we weaved around as a ripple on the surface of Lake information: www.interpatagonia.com Lake Espejo and regained tarmac Nahuel Huapi.

30 cycle october/november 2009