Study on T/C Economics, Markets and Competition in the EU-MED area (Economic Intelligence)

Date: 16th June 2014 Author: EURATEX - Roberta ADINOLFI - Economic & Statistics Manager Phone: +32.2.285.48.87 [email protected]

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Statement:

The 2007-2013 ENPI CBC Mediterranean Sea Basin Programme is a multilateral Cross- Border Cooperation initiative funded by the European Neighbourhood and Partnership Instrument (ENPI). The Programme objective is to promote the sustainable and harmonious cooperation process at the Mediterranean Basin level by dealing with the common challenges and enhancing its endogenous potential. It finances cooperation projects as a contribution to the economic, social, environmental and cultural development of the Mediterranean region. The following 14 countries participate in the Programme: Cyprus, Egypt, , , Israel, , Jordan, Lebanon, Malta, Palestine, , , Syria (participation currently suspended), Tunisia. The Joint Managing Authority (JMA) is the Autonomous Region of Sardinia (Italy). Official Programme languages are Arabic, English and French (www.enpicbcmed.eu).

Disclaimer:

This draft report has been produced with the financial assistance of the under the ENPI CBC Mediterranean Sea Basin Programme. The content of this document are the sole responsibility of EURATEX and can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting the position of the European Union or of the Programme’s management structures.

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TEXMED Short report study on the T/C industry

(Final 16/06/2014)

1. Worldwide trade and basic structural data for the EU-28 and other relevant count ries of the Mediterranean area Annex 1A-Euratex key figures leaflet 2014 1B-Euratex structural data by EU member states 1C-Euratex presentation on the T/C industry 1D-Short Term Statistics (Eurostat) 1E-WTO trade data 1D-Euratex publication: Bulletin n°4/2013

With a household consumption of nearly 500 Billion €, the EU is the largest world market for textile and clothing (T/C) products. The T/C industry accounts for some 6% of employment in the EU manufacturing sector and a 3.1% of total merchandises’ exports. It is the second world exporter in textiles as well as in clothing.

In 2012, the EU-28 T/C industry reached a turnover of 168 bn € and investments of 4 bn €. The average size of companies is relatively low which explains why they principally trade within the internal market while the Extra-EU exports reached 42 bn € or 28% of World sales.

T/C production has a long tradition in the Mediterranean Region because of its geographical and cultural proximity to the European market, and the low labour cost. In , Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, Syria, and Jordan, the T/C industry is the main industrial employer, accounting for 30 to 50% of jobs (mainly female). The Turkish T/C industry has a very important share in the total Pan-Euromed production, turnover, employment and exports.

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The EU T/C industry gained some speed during the last quarter 2013. The main short-term indicators, with the exception of employment, are gradually improving as compared with last year low levels. However, over the full year, weak results were achieved with mixed results throughout the industry. Clothing appeared again in a more difficult position than textiles, with stronger drop in production, turnover and employment. Pricing conditions were less burdensome with slight growth in domestic production prices. Finally, the optimistic signal comes from the retail sales that turned positive and from Extra-EU exports of clothing products, which provided a positive impetus to activity.

• Among the sub-sectors, the production of underwear, knitwear and made-up textiles were greatly affected, while the manufactures of MMF, knitted & crocheted fabrics, as well as technical & industrial textiles increased their production level in 2013. • The member states recording positive output evolutions in 2013 were: DK, CZ, SP, LV, LT, PL, PT, BG, IE, RO. The one with the worse performances were: EL, FI, IT, UK, HU, FR and BE

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2. Analysis of the EU external trade in 2013-global sector as well as main EU suppliers and customers.

Annex 2A- Euratex publication: Bulletin n°1 and n°2/2013 2B- Euratex Statistics in focus (publication n°18) 2C- Member States’ weight (table)

After a drop in 2012, EU T/C imports picked slightly up in 2013 (by +1.1% in value terms), in particular in the textile industry (+3.3%). Imports of T/C products from China continued to fall down (-2.5%) after their 2011 record. This leading supplier accounted for almost 1/3 of EU28 textiles imports and almost half of clothing imports. During the first quarter 2014, T/C suppliers showed divergent trend with double digit growth (Bangladesh and Cambodia) and drop (China, Morocco, Tunisia).

Thanks to the upturn in world trade, EU exports confirm their revival but at a slower rate than the previous year. Intra-EU exports went up (+2.5%), reflecting improved internal demand and private consumption. Extra-EU exports reached € 42 bn, the highest level since the start of this century and 2013 was the fourth year in a row of growth in value terms. Extra -EU T/C exports succeeded again in gaining further market shares in 2013 (+2,1%), in particular in the clothing industry (Clothing:+4,3%; Textile: +0,1%).

a. the weight of global regions

Last year more than 14 bn € of EU exports (33%) were sold to the Euromed area with a clear textile pattern. But it should be highlighted that clothing products did represent a sizeable share of EU sales in the region (with the bulk being absorbed by the EFTA countries and Turkey).

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During 2013, as a consequence of the moderate demand mainly of cheap T/C goods, China’s market share of EU T/C imports has declined for a fourth consecutive year below its historical level of 2010. In value terms, total T/C imports from this country decreased by -2.2% compared to the year before. The Asian countries accounted for 69% of the EU-28 total purchases in 2013. The share of EU-28 T/C imports from the Mediterranean countries remained unchanged at 19.8% and increased by +2.5% in value terms.

The Mediterranean and Asian countries export mainly clothing articles to the EU-28, while woven fabrics remain the major product exported from the EU-28 to the NAFTA, EFTA, Mediterranean countries, Autonomous regions and ACP countries.

b. T/C sectors weight.

The EU countries mainly import woven garments (36.4%) and knitted garments (36.1%) from extra-EU markets. Woven fabrics (24.9%), woven garments (31.4%), knitted garments (17.1%) and special textiles (10.6%) are the products of the EU-28 most exported to the external market.

c. Member States weight

Germany records the highest share in total EU-28 imports with 22% of imported products in 2013(mainly home textiles and technical textiles). While Italy has the highest shares in terms of exported products with 29% (mainly woven & knitted garments as well as yarns).

d. The historical trend of EU T/C exports and imports

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* Cambodia (textiles): 1955%; China (clothing): 1244%

The top-10 EU trade partners, 2002-2013 evolution: EU T/C imports from Bangladesh, China, Cambodia and Vietnam recorded the highest increase between 2002 and 2013, with 3-digit growth rates both in textiles and clothing. On the other hand, imports from Tunisia and Morocco registered the strongest drops over the period, in particular in the clothing industry.

The EU T/C exports to its main customers performed well between 2002-2013 with the exception of Tunisia, Morocco, the US and Japan. EU exports to the Russian and Chinese markets were the most dynamic both for textiles and clothing products. Exports to Turkey experienced a noticeable growth in particular in clothing articles. This evolution made now China the 5th largest EU customer after Turkey. Tunisia, Morocco and the US registered the strongest drops over the period.

The EU trade evolution with the Mediterranean region For more than 20 years, the trade between Mediterranean countries and the EU has been dominated by T/C products. This sector alone accounts for almost 50% of Mediterranean countries exports of manufactured products to the EU. The main T/C players in the Mediterranean Region are Turkey, Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, Syria and Jordan. The main purchasing countries are France, , and Spain.

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Within the Pan-Euromed area (including EFTA and Balkan countries), Tunisia, Morocco and Israel registered the strongest drops over the past 10 years. On the other hand, EU exporters were able to strongly increase their market shares in Serbia, Egypt, Albania, BH, Macedonia and Turkey. Furthermore, EU imports from Serbia, Albania, Macedonia and Jordan witnessed the highest growth rates over the period.

3. Country Profiles Annex 3A- Euratex Members’ report: EU countries 3B- Euratex Members’ report: non EU countries 3C- China report 3D- Euratex publication: Bulletin n°4/2013

a. The countries of the project: Ø Italy Ø Spain Ø Greece Ø Tunisia Ø Egypt and Ø Jordan and Palestine (available data).

b. other important countries of the Mediterranean: Ø Portugal Ø Turkey Ø Morocco (available data).

c. Other key countries: Ø USA Ø Japan Ø Russia Ø China.

4. The evolution of the home textiles and technical textiles’ industry

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Annex 4A-Euratex presentation on home textiles 4B-Euratex presentation on technical textiles 4C-European Economic and Social Committee -Consultative Commission on Industrial Change-Technical textiles

Technical Textiles sector:

The technical textiles industry in the EU represents, roughly 30% of the total turnover in textiles, i.e. EUR 30 billion (it could be a higher market-share in some Member States like Germany, or France), 15 000 companies and 300 000 employees. The EU technical textile industry, thanks to its high innovation capacity, offers a potential for direct and indirect jobs and growth in the EU.

Worldwide, the development of technical textiles production is illustrated by fibre consumption. Technical textiles consumed worldwide about 22 bn tonnes of fibres in 2010, representing 27.5% of a total consumption of 80 bn tonnes for all T/C applications. Europe accounts for about 15% of the global consumption of technical textiles (source: The European Association for man-made fibres).

The top five exporters of technical textiles (DE, IT, FR, UK, BE) do represent more than 60% of the total extra-EU exports. Moreover, the Member States whose technical textiles represent the highest share of their textiles exports (excluding clothing) in 2013 are , , , and .

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The US is the main EU customer of technical textiles, while Turkey, Tunisia and Morocco ranks respectively 5th, 8th and 10th of the top-10 customers. On the supplier side, China is by far the number one, with EU import share constantly increasing over the years.

The technical textile sector is undergoing significant industrial change with the growing importance of new applications (medical, sport and leisure, aeronautics, environment), and a radical move from traditional technologies (knitting, weaving, braiding etc.) to more recent ones (like composites or nonwoven technologies).

The EU T/C industry has established a successful industrial partnership with the Euromed countries such as Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt in the fashion pipe line. Thus, lies for the future the opportunity to promote the EU investments on some technical textiles markets that are more mature, have a lower technological content, and are more sensitive to the price pressure from Asia. Turkey is a key-player in the Euromed Fashion pipeline and has a powerful integrated textile industry, from raw material to garments or home textiles. An increasing number of Turkish companies are active on technical markets (10% to 15%) and domestic consumption is dynamic.

The Home Textiles sector:

Household textiles, together with technical textiles are the only 2 activities which increased their turnover share in the total T/C industry between 2004 and 2011. In 2013, the EU-28 home textiles’ industry reached a turnover of 15 bn € and a value added of 4 bn €.

Regarding household expenditures of household textiles, Germany, Italy, Spain, and the UK represent 65% of the EU Household textiles consumption. 10

In 2013, EU home textiles exports performed well in extra-EU markets (USA +15%, +10%); NAFTA and EFTA regions were the two most important consumers of EU home textiles; globally exports to intra-EU markets slightly improved in 2013, but went down in the top4 EU markets. Germany and France still accounted for 1/3rd of the world market in 2013.

China remains the main supplier of home textiles (excluding carpets) with a share of 32% of the total extra EU-28 imports. The rest come mainly from the SAARC region and the Mediterranean countries. The Mediterranean countries are since last year, the top supplier of the EU’s carpet with a market share of 32.3% (32.3% in 2012), followed by SAARC region with 29.4% (31.6% in 2012) and China with 20.8% (19.6% in 2012); the added three shares of carpet totalize 82.5% (83.4% in 2012) of the imports of this market.

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LIST OF ANNEXES:

1A Euratex key figures leaflet 2014 1B Euratex structural data by EU member states 1C Euratex presentation on the T/C industry 1D Short Term Statistics (Eurostat) 1E WTO trade data 1D Link to Euratex Bulletin n°4/2013 2A Link to Euratex Bulletin n°1 and n°2/2013 2B Euratex Statistics in focus (publication n°18) 2C Member States’ weight (table) 3A Euratex Members’ report: EU countries 3B Euratex Members’ report: non EU countries 3C China report 3D Link to Euratex Bulletin n°4/2013 4A Euratex presentation on home textiles 4B Euratex presentation on technical textiles 4C European Economic and Social Committee -Consultative Commission on Industrial Change-Technical textiles

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