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Tools and Equipment All the tools and stuff I use to make my didgeridoos. When talking to people I have been asked many times, "What is that?", "How does it work", and "What does that do?". This page covers all the tools and equipment I use to make a wooden didgeridoo. On a number of occasions I have helped others get hold of various tools, equipment and materials to make their own didges. Rather than spend loads of time sourcing stuff each time I get a request, I decided to make it available all the time, so I am now able to offer all the tools etc. for sale.

Arbortech A lovely bit of kit, comprising A band is of a metal disc with several run between two on the rim, wheels, one with a motor. attached to an angle grinder. This gives a continuous, Made from one piece of metal smooth downwards sawing the cutting points can be motion. Many band have sharpened with a adjustable tables to allow sharpener, or by hand with the correct . A wood to be cut at different angles. All I can say sharp blade cuts through wood like a is that the better the band saw the easier it is through butter, if used when blunt, the wood to work and the more versatile you can be. may be difficult to cut and more pressure is required.

Chisels and Gouges Clamps are used to remove At the moment I use decent excess wood; however the quality quick grip clamps. By blade is straight so I do not using the V blocks on the use these in any area carpenters horse I am able requiring curves. Gouges are to secure the didgeridoo chisels with curves. A wide quickly and easily. They have variety of sizes, shapes, and good strength; however some angles of blades can be purchased. I use two of the cheaper brands break very quickly with sizes (¼" and ¾") with a medium curve on the little pressure. blade which allows me to reach quite tight and narrow parts of the bore (on twisty and curvy didgeridoos).

Drawknife Epoxy Resin This is a flat knife with a A two part mixture that comes handle at each end. The knife in gel form of varying is pulled towards the body and viscosities, when mixed in the can remove a lot of stock right proportion it reacts, (stock is the term used for the creating heat, then solidifies bulk of the wood). into a hard mass that is come straight or curved, and extremely water and chemical in different lengths. I use a flexible one as it resistant. Both toxic and a skin irritant when allows me to bend it so I can reach the tighter uncured but safe when cured. Different resins bends on the more awkward bits of wood. have different viscosities which are suitable for different applications.

Japanese Hassumme Rip Saw A Japanese version if the Of the hand saws I have used with a different style this one has to be the best. It cutting blade. Whereas the has a thin yet very sharp surform has a horizontal blade blade that cuts on the pull. Its and hence acts like a cheese cuts well with little effort in the way it cuts, the compared to some of the Japanese saw is a number of other saws. The only disadvantage I have found saw blades attached to each in a wire mesh so far is that tight cuts in curvy didgeridoos are style pattern. One edge of the saw has a difficult due to the depth of the blade. The blade coarser blade, and the other a finer blade. is detachable and therefore easily replaced.

Jubilee Clips Moisture Reader These are metal bands with a Simple little gadget of which screw fitted that when there a number of different tightened makes the band ones available that reads the smaller. The pressure it moisture level in wood. This is applies is even around the usefull (if like me) you are circumference. Can be never quite sure if a piece of tightened very tight if needs timber has seasoned enough. be with the thread breaking. I use the branded Two prongs are stuck into the wood which then 'Jubilee' clips as they have thread along their displays the moisture level. The more you pay entire length so have maximum amount of the more accurate the device will be. adjustment.

Polymite Power Sanding Tools A two part glue. The extramite I have tried and use a variety is a urea formaldehyde based of power tools to assist with resin in powder form that sanding. When I started out when mixed with water, forms making didgeridoos I did not a paste which sets into a hard realise just how much effort compound. Used for joining and time goes into sanding! I the two halves of the have a larger orbital didgeridoos together. When working in hot that holds ½ sheets. This is used on areas that temperatures the glue can set a lot faster than it are large and uniform. My favourite is an says on the instructions so be aware and work adjustable speed detail sander. It is quick and quickly. effective and can cover larger areas fairly quickly.

PVA The long name is 'Poly Vinyl A rasp is a rough file with Acetate', and is a liquid large cutting points for filing plastic. Comes in many wood. They come in a variety varieties, from children's of shapes, sizes and styles. I washable PVA to waterproof have rasp bits that attach to a external grade. Water soluble . These are used for while wet. Commonly refining the mouthpiece. I available in many retail outlets from decorating have a couple of file rasps which are used in the and hardware shops to DIY outlets and craft shaping of the timber, and also the main two centres. Has many uses whether as a glue or that I use: surform and Japanese and rasp saw thinned with water to prime surfaces or provide thing (as listed above). a protective layer.

Sanding Drums Spoke Shave I have an assortment of This is a type of hand sanding drums in different with adjustable depth of cut. sizes. They, err, are a drum The body holds the blade, with a bit of paper secured by a plate and wrapped round. I use them screws, with a handle on each for refining the mouthpiece side. Straight and curved after the rasp has been used spoke shaves are available. I and in the bell, after I have gouged or chiselled use a very shallow depth when finishing off or the excess out. removing a ridge in the wood, whether natural or made with another implement. I use a deeper cut when I need to remove a greater amount of wood.

Surform Rasp These tools come in both one and two handed versions. They are a thin metal rasp, mounted on a block. I think of them as a cheese grater for wood. Great for rough, and finishing off the initial shaping, as well as fine adjustments after the bore has been made. Retains its cutting edge extremely well, and leaves a grooved finish which varies according to the pressure.

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