Coast & Heaths Explorer Guide

The Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB The Suffolk Coast & Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) is one of Britain’s finest landscapes. It extends from the Stour estuary in the south to the eastern fringe of and north, to . The AONB covers 403 square kilometres, including wildlife rich wetlands, ancient heaths, windswept shingle beaches and historic towns and villages. Visiting Walberswick Key to Map Ordnance Survey Explorer Map No 231 AONB area Kessingland Explorer Guide ( & ) Additional project area Lowestoft

Towns and villages A145 Key to Map A12 Walberswick is approximately Woodland Beccles AONB area 3 miles/5 km from the A12 at Heathland Additional project area Kessingland Main roads Southwold Towns and villages A145 Railways/stations A12 River Public transport information: Woodland Blyth HeathlandSuffolk Coast Path/Stour Blythburgh Walberswick and Orwell Walk HalesworthA144 The nearest train station is . Main roads Southwold Local buses serve Southwold from Railways/stationsSandlings Walk River Blyth SuffolkSailor s’Coast Path Path/Stour A1120 Blythburgh Walberswick Halesworth and Lowestoft. You and Orwell Walk A144 SandlingsYou are Whealkre can then walk to Walberswick from Dunwich Sailors’ Path A1120 Southwold (30 mins). You are here Minsmere

Public transport information: Framlingham Saxmundham www.suffolkonboard.com or call Leiston

0845 606 6171 Snape Wickham Snape Market River Wickham Aldeburgh Southwold Tourist Information: Market River Alde Alde A12 Rendlesham 01728 688303 A12 River River www.suffolkcoastal.gov.uk/tourism/tics Orford OrfordOre Ore WWoodbridgeoodbridge Orfordness Orfordness Sutton HooSutton Suffolk Coast Hoo & Heaths AONB Ipswich North Ipswich River North A14 Deben Sea 01394 384948 River A14 DebenBawdsey Sea A14 www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org Trimley St Mary/ River Orwell A12 A14St Martin Alton Water Trimley St Mary/ River Orwell A12 A137 St Martin Crown copyright. All rights reserved Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB Shotley Alton Water © 2012 . is a partner of the Balance River Stour Licence number 100023395. ManningtreeA137 project, part-financed by the Shotley Harwich Mistley Felixstowe European Union through the River Stour Manningtree Interreg IV A 2 Seas Cross- Harwich Mistley border Programme. Enjoy two walks around Walberswick village and further afield to the coast and reedbeds. Enjoy village pubs, open coastline and forest. Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Printed on Recycled, FSC, ECF, Carbon Balanced paper. Printed on Recycled, FSC, ECF, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

There has been a settlement at Walberswick since at least the time of the Saxons. The Walberswick name Walberswick is believed to derive from two Saxon words, “Waldbert” – probably Suffolk Coast & Heaths Explorer Guide the name of a landowner – and “wyc”, meaning shelter or harbour.

Highlights of Walberswick 3 The Old Railway. In 1879, a narrow gauge railway opened between Halesworth and Southwold and included a station at 1 is located on a spur Walberswick Walberswick. The railway followed the of high ground, close to the natural southern side of the Blyth valley then haven of the River Blyth. Whilst the crossed the river via a swing bridge. The landscape appears unchanging, history line connected to the Railway, shows that coastal change and tidal serving holidaymakers and the fishing industry. flooding were ever present. In 1328, A link was added to Southwold Harbour in 1914, but a severe storm destroyed much of the the decline of the fishing industry swiftly followed. Increased competition ancient port of nearby Dunwich. The from road transport and ageing equipment also took their toll and the River Dunwich then forged a new path railway closed in 1929. to the sea via Walberswick. After the Second World War the Bailey footbridge replaced the railway Walberswick became a centre for fishing and shipbuilding but its swing bridge. This bridge provides pedestrian access between Walberswick fortunes varied. St Andrews Church fell into such disrepair that it was and Southwold to this day. partially demolished. A smaller church was built within its remains. Today, Walberswick’s economy relies mainly on tourism. 4 Grazing Marsh and Reedbed characterise the coast between Southwold - Walberswick Walberswick and Dunwich. Dingle, In 1885, following the Ferry. Reedland, Westwood, Corporation formation of the River Blyth and Oldtown Marshes lie in the Ferry Company, a pontoon that Dunwich River valley where deep could carry a horse and cart peat overlies river and marine was used to cross the river. This D alluvium. The area was was hand-operated by means used for fairs in of chains. In 1911, a larger the 1380s. steam-driven chain ferry was Westwood Marsh was claimed from salt marsh commissioned. This ran until the around 1590. The mid-20th century saw much outbreak of the Second World War, when the ferry was anchored in mid- re-flooding. This area is now part of the Suffolk stream as part of anti-invasion measures. The ferry broke free and sank. Coast National Nature Reserve. The landscape Since then, a rowing boat provides the ferry service. features grazing cattle on low intensity wet Images: Front cover: Walberswick Windpump - Malcolm Farrow. A. Walberswick Village Green - a grassland and is dissected by a network of popular focal point. B. Southwold - Walberswick Ferry c.1900. C. Southwold Light Railway - Travellers c.1910 - Blythweb Ltd/ Archive Project. D. Reedbed and Grazing Marsh - classic landscape dykes that have some scrubby areas. features. E. Walberswick Village - view from the Marshes. Wander around Walberswick with its river, heath Walberswick and marshes, or take a longer walk to Dunwich Suffolk Coast & Heaths Explorer Guide

Crown copyright. All rights reserved © 2012 Suffolk County Council. Licence number 100023395. Tinkers Marsh 3 A12 Southwold

Town Marsh 2 Blythburgh Hill Covert Tinkers Deadmans Covert Walberswick Covert Blythburgh Covert B1387 1 Sallow Walk Covert Hoist Covert

B1125 Old Covert Marshes, Coast and Forest Walberswick Wander Westwood 4 Countryside Marshes A Road Code Point B Road The area has a network of footpaths Fen Marsh Covert C Road and bridleways. We have marked two suggested routes on this map and have a Bridleway/Footpath few simple suggestions to help you enjoy Dunwich Foxburrow 1 ‘Highlights’ Location the area safely and assist our work to care Forest Wood Church for it. Follow the Countryside Code: Plan ahead and follow any signs Public House Schieller’s Dingle Leave things as you find them Grove Marshes Parking Protect plants and animals, control Water Tower Reedland fires and take your litter home Marshes Dunwich Seasonal Ferry Crossing Dogs are welcome, but please Forest Caravan Park Hogs keep them under control Grove Find out more about the Countryside Code: 4 Wooded Area These routes www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk are open to the Marsh Land Dunwich Urban Settlements N Forest public for quiet 1000ft Dunwich recreation. Enjoy 200m your visit. ‘Marshes, Coast ‘Walberswick Distance Distance and Forest’ 6.8 miles (11 km) Wander’ 3 miles (5 km)

Time: 3 - 4 hours Time: 1 hour 30 mins depending on Terrain: Paths and tracks, some of which ferry crossings (Summer time only) can be very muddy at certain times. Please Terrain: Paths and tracks. This walk be aware of tides when walking along the takes you onto public highways. We coastline. At high tides, the coastal route recommend high visibility clothing. may be impassable. Start on Walberswick village green Start on Walberswick village green, A facing Ferry Road. Turn left and DC facing Ferry Road and turn right then left again onto the road at the towards the village hall, following the top (N end) of the village green road as it bears right onto The Street. (Leverett’s Lane). B just Take the footpath on your left Take the second track to your right, before you reach The Anchor pub. signed ‘Bridleway’. Take the right fork, then the left fork, Follow this track and bear right You should now then turn left again. onto a Footpath when you reach the be on the with the ‘Footpath’ sign. narrow Dunwich River immediately E Coas Coas Coas olk t P olk t P olk t P ff at ff at ff at u h u h u h on your left (look outS for theS S Follow this path across Walberswick

O y r r fo r Continue following the path Common and bear right again down Cross over the Bailey bridge and Suffolk Coast Path markerr e discs). d F O p Loo via rfo oo p rd L for approximately 1.5km to a track (Palmer’s Lane) when you turn right, keeping the River Blyth d Orw d Orw d Orw an ell an ell an ell r W r W r W u a u a u a o l o l o l t k t k t k Follow the Suffolk S Coast PathS S the edge of Dunwich Forest, reach another ‘Footpath’ sign. on your right. Go past the boat passing the derelict across marshes, I I nl e ps p and Rout wich Loo then follow the track with yards, chandleries and fisherman’s Walberswick windpump. The marshes Bear right at the next the forest on your right and sheds of the Harbour and cross support scarce wildlife, such as the ‘Footpath’ sign on your left. over the river on the foot bittern, that depends on fresh water and head down When the road is reached at ferry to bring you back into but these marshes are at risk of towards the river Bridge Farm on the edge of Walberswick. When the ferry becoming saline if sea defences cannot and Southwold, Dunwich, turn left. is not running, it’s possible to be sustained. following the do a similar walk by keeping From Dunwich, you can route of the former to the Walberswick side of the either retrace your route, or Southwold Light C River Blyth instead of crossing walk back along the beach Railway. Look out the River on the Bailey Bridge. to Walberswick. The top of for the disused windmill the shingle bank provides across the reedbed. On leaving the Ferry turn left. the best views but the You soon reach Ferry Road which Images: A. Silver-studded Blue - seen on heathland sandier shoreline makes for in summer. B. The Open Coast - beautiful throughout runs between the two car parking the year - M Watson. C. Bittern - creeps through the an easier walk. In winter, wetlands - Do Van Dijck/FN/Minden/FLPA. D. Otter - areas. Keep walking along Ferry however, the beach route elusive resident of the reedbeds.- Simon Litten/FLPA. which takes you back into E. The Bailey Bridge - a vital link. F. Walberswick Road may be impassable. Harbour - a welcome refuge in bad weather. the village.