Men ’s Clothing Guidelines

This list is intended as a guide to assembling a reasonably accurate kit for a Highland man circa the year 1745. It is not the last word on the subject - there are probably sources for patterns or ready-made items that are not listed. Please see the Suppliers List for other sources.

We recognize that few, if any, people will ever achieve the "Most Accurate" level in all areas of their kit. This page is designed to provide a "Good, Better, Best" structure so that you will have an idea of what will get you in the door with a reasonably good outfit, as well as goals to strive for as you seek to improve your impression.

Minimum Item Most Accurate Good Unacceptable Sources Acceptable See "Bonnets" paper and modern beret w/ fabric - sewn good quality wool instructions ; commercial dye leather wool - knitted blend ask Dan Gilbert for suppliers of knit process sweatband Bonnet hand-dyed indigo poly/ ribbon bonnets. Mara Riley will knit them for wool-ribbon pom-poms blue on temporary basis group members on request. cockade poly-rayon -ribbon cockade (1st year) • 1" wide white silk ribbon, Burnley & ribbon Trowbridge , or Wooded Hamlet • Double-D buckle: see West Point single-thickness buckle and F&I Double D buckle for leather, 1.5-3" wide some appropriate styles. Available russet, natural, split-grain leather from Godwin , Najecki Reproductions Belt brown or black chrome buckle (who also carries an appropriate iron brass, pewter or cut decoration buckle), Smiling Fox Forge , and other iron/steel buckle in sources. period shape • Belt strap can be ordered from Tandy Leather - order width of strap to fit interior dimension of buckle (which is usually the buckle size, but to be sure).

Group members can help you make a leather belt (it's easy). • J.P. Ryan shirt pattern (adjust cuffs & collar to 1-2") wool, , , rayon, , /linen • Jas. Townsend (contrary to their linsey-woolsey unbleached blend website, white linen is not "dressy" cloth-covered or cotton / horn or wood cotton unless it's also very fine, so a plain Leine (shirt) thread-covered Ren-faire or buttons wood buttons white linen shirt is good for everyday buttons of antler, pirate shirts collar turned wear) – will make shirt with 1” wide wood, bone (-front with down to 1" collar and cuffs on request 1" band collar metal grommets) • Barkertown Sutlers ready-made shirts • Godwin ready-made shirts obvious synthetic • Barkertown Sutlers wool wool blend Trews ditto blends • Pattern available from fly- or fall-front fabric cotton Reconstructing History wool tartan, 2 wool tartan, one cotton pieces min. 27" good quality Plaid piece, min. 60" obvious synthetic • see Suppliers List wide, sewn side-by- wool/poly blend wide blends side animal-mask sporrans brass or drawstring Bee-bo Bear modern closure see sporran (Smoke & Fire commercial • sporran paper Sporran leather (deer, elk, paper product), smooth sporrans • Tom McElroy cow) side in, moosehide chrome yellow or brown other modern colors • Pattern available from Tartan Cut tartan wool tartan wool cotton flannel ReconstructingHistory ; or ask Dan for Hose sock paper "quick and dirty" good wool blend obvious synthetic Stockings paper (Stockings) construction construction blends • Kannik's Korner Accessories pattern • Barkertown Sutlers wool ribbon / tape • Wooded Hamlet silk ribbon cotton ribbon / Garters poly ribbon • Townsend leather garters w/ tape • Godwin buckles modern socks(below knee) striped socks machine-knit 100% wool, hand- (documented • Smiling Fox Forge Knitted wool or cotton knit to period good wool blend only for C18th • Godwin Stockings stockings over pattern sailors) Hand-knit stocking instructions here the knee modern tights cut hose: cotton flannel, obvious synthetic blends hand-made, squared or semi- round toe, 1/2" heel plain black modern straight last Fugawee shoes may be worn combat boots pewter, steel, brass "Ligonier" or for first year modern shoes • Burnley & Trowbridge buckles or ties w/ equivalent; hand- (except juried Shoes Ren-faire boots • Godwin leather thong for made, machine events), but Smoke & Fire • Gossville Shoes more common stitching, metal pampooties are gillies person (see nails cheap and Penicuick preferable drawings) brown or black; rough side out probably more common for working class yellow, obviously chrome-dyed sheepskin, deerskin leather (with or without center-seamed cowhide, sneakers Also see Pampooties paper Pampooties hair) moccasins with sheepskin other moccasins • Lucas type 3 or 4 shoe (hide shoes) bare feet also tops trimmed off or (without hair) modern shoes • Irish pampootie accurate, if tucked in Ren-faire "Celtic practical at the site shoes" Smoke & Fire gillies straight iron, steel, clan brooches Kilt pin brass, bone, antler • Philip Cromwell penannulars or wood, bodkin tartan wool solid-color wool, linsey or linen cotton lining, obvious synthetic wool, linsey or machine-sewn completely blends • Barkertown Sutlers Waistcoat / linen lining with hand machine-sewn Ren-faire leather • Townsend (solid colors) Jacket hand-sewn linen that can pass doublets & • Janice Ryan waistcoat pattern cut short to wear for hard tartan similar with plaid or trews, longer to wear with breeches tartan or solid-color • Janice Ryan Frock coat pattern (cut wool cotton lining; wool obvious synthetic Coat wool lining shorter) linsey-woolsey blends blends • Barkertown Sutlers linen lining cut short to wear with plaid or trews; longer for wear with breeches obviously 100% wool yarn - plain or rag wool modern or • Mara Riley's knitting pattern for Gloves/Mittens knitted mittens or gloves, synthetic mittens mittens or Gunnister gloves leather, hand-sewn no leather or gloves leather, linen, silk stock silk or linen cravat (square or rectangle cotton-linen • Godwin Neck stock scarf) for common cotton muslin blend • Jas. Townsend impression neckerchief can be 35" square or 60"x6" black or brown cocked (aka tricorn) or slouch modern stocking hat (low, round caps • Jas. Townsend brim) for Hats "deer tails" or • Port Tobacco Merchants Lowlanders other hats with • Dirty Billy's Hats brown, natural, animal tails grey or blue knitted Monmouth caps (bog bodies) wool, linen, linsey, • Jas. Townsend cotton , leather • Godwin cotton duck, Breeches metal buttons with • Barkertown Sutlers cotton/linen matching metal • Period Impressions "French Fly" blend buckles OR tied breeches pattern legs (seen frequently in Penicuick drawings and bog bodies) fall- or fly-front, though in mid- C18th, fly-front is more common Iron Age 'torc" or Celtic jewelry for juried events- from other Jewelry rings: plain silver periods or gold band, if any Victorian or modern jewelry

General Construction Techniques:

Best Good Acceptable Unacceptable

all handstitched seams and metal grommets machine-sewn hidden buttonholes completely machine-sewn zippers seams Sewing, cloth silk, wool or linen thread seams & buttonholes velcro hand-stitched visible (linen most common) cotton thread obvious clan should be seams and buttonholes tartans in non-clan sett avoided whenever possible cloth-covered, horsehair- metal-shanked buttons aluminum or chrome buttons Buttons filled, wood or metal shanks wood buttons stamped buttons thread-covered buttons horn buttons plastic Sewing, leather waxed linen thread artificial sinew thread or monofilament (except shoes)

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