American Mountain Guides Association

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES ASSOCIATION

PO Box 1739, Boulder, CO 80306 • Phone: (303) 271-0984 Fax: (303) 271-1377 • Email: [email protected] • Web: www.amga.com

National Office Staff Executive Director: Mike Alkaitis [email protected] Program Director: Betsy Novak [email protected] Membership Director: Henry Beyer [email protected] Program Assistant: Justin Yates [email protected] Technical Director: Rob Hess [email protected]

Diamond Partners 2007

Aspirant guides Tim Brown and Rob Coppolilo topping out at the bivy site above Fisher Chimneys, Mt Shuksan during a guide training in the jagged peaks of North Cascades national Park, WA. Photo by Marcus Beck. AMGA Catalog 2007 TABLE OF CONTENTS

3 AMGA Guide Education and Certification Program 4 AMGA Certification Track Flowchart 5 Program Update 7 Application Process 8 Programs Available to AMGA Members 9 Program Ratios and Maximum Enrollment 10 Program Goals 11 Aspirant Exam Overview 12 Assessment Categories 14 Program Prerequisites and Example Climbs 15 Definition of Mock Guiding 16 Top Rope Site Manager Flowchart 17 Top Rope Site Manager Program Overview 18 Top Rope Site Manager Certification 19 Rock Guide Flowchart 20 Rock Guide Program Overview 21 Rock Instructor Course 21 Rock Instructor Certification Exam 22 Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam Overview 24 Rock Guide Certification Exam Overview 26 Alpine Guide Flowchart 27 Alpine Program Overview 28 Alpine Guide Course Overview 29 Advanced Alpine Guide Course & Aspirant Exam 30 Alpine Guide Certification Exam 31 Ski Guide Flowchart 32 Ski Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guide Program 34 Overview 35 Ski Mountaineering Guide Course & Aspirant Exam 37 Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification Exam 38 Ice Climbing Course Overview 40 IFMGA Certified Guide Flowchart 42 Frequently Asked Questions 44 Membership Application 46 Course Application 48 Exam Application 50 Program Liability Waivers 52 Mountaineering 58 Program Resumes 2007 Program Schedule editing . betsy novak . [email protected] design & photos . lauren di scipio . [email protected]

cover photo & photos . markus beck sarah hayden repoints pente, indian creek . 2005 by lauren di scipio GUIDE EDUCATION & CERTIFICATION AMGA Programs

The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is a 501 ( c ) 3 non-profit organization that represents the interests of American mountain guides by providing support, education, training and certification.

The AMGA is the only internationally recognized organization that offers comprehensive and extensive training and certification for rock climbing, alpine climbing and ski mountaineering guides in the United States. The AMGA is the sole United States member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides (IFMGA) and works closely with the IFMGA to make sure the AMGA maintains the international standards.

For those pursuing a career as a professional guide the recommended path for receiving the highest level of guide certification is to first, enroll in entry-level AMGA courses, progress into the advanced level courses and aspirant exams and than complete certification by pass- ing the final exam.

The primary focuses of all AMGA programs are instruction, application and assessment. Our Instructor Pool is made up of highly experienced AMGA and IFMGA Certified Guides who have been specifically trained in the areas of pedagogy, technical assessment, student evaluation and outdoor eth- ics. Our skilled guides demonstrate a high degree of commitment to and responsibility of all AMGA programs. Candidates of AMGA courses will learn how to: effectively manage risks, maximize client rewards, efficiently assess diverse terrains, build upon professionalism, heighten instructional techniques, and competently apply technical systems under the tutelage of our skilled staff.

Once an AMGA member has passed all three certification exams in the disciplines of rock, ski, and alpine, they receive International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) Certified Guide status, which in return allows them to be licensed and recognized as a guide in all IFMGA member countries. Receiving International Federation of Mountain Guides Association Guide Certification is the highest credential available for mountain guides in the world.

“The work of the guide implies abnegation. The guide does not go where he wants to go, but must go to the summit of which his client has dreamed. The guide does not climb for himself but primarily for the pleasure of the companion he is leading.”

Gaston Rebuffat, 1965 sarah hayden repoints pente, indian creek . 2005 by lauren di scipio near the summit of dufour spitze, monte rosa, swiss alps . photo: markus beck, uiagm AMGA Certification Track FlowcharT

AMGA PROGRAM UPDATE Application Deadlines: There is no longer an Application Review Date (ARD). The AMGA office will receive applications for the upcoming season at any point in time up until 8 weeks prior to the start date of the course or exam you are applying for. Applications will be reviewed in the order in which they are received. Applications will not be reviewed until all required paperwork, resumes and payments are received by the AMGA office.

Our goal is to have space available for each applicant that meets the program prerequisites. However, with the increase in demand of AMGA programs this is not always possible. Therefore, it is critical that you provide a complete and professional application for each program you wish to enroll by the eight-week deadline. Please refer to the 2007 Program Schedule page 30 for course and exam dates.

Application Fee: A $100 non-refundable application fee will be deducted from your program deposit. Your application fee will only be refunded if: you do not receive enrollment status in the program you applied for, you are placed on a wait list and a space does not become available, or if the AMGA cancels the program you are enrolled in.

Program Deposit: A course or exam deposit must be submitted with the application. Program deposit is 25% of the full course or exam cost. Applications that do not include deposit will not be reviewed until payment is received. Please note that a $100 non-refundable application fee will be deducted from your program deposit.

Accepted Applications: Once your application is accepted you will receive an email letter of acceptance. Six weeks prior to the start of the course or exam you are enrolled in a packet of program information will be mailed to you. The packet will include: program manual, roster, location map, past course itinerary, and local lodging/camping resources. Unless you have stated otherwise, the AMGA office will use the address located on your course or exam application for mailing. Please inform the AMGA office if you are not going to be at this address six weeks prior to the start date your course or exam.

Once your application is received your deposit will be processed. If you are not accepted into the program you will receive a full refund of your deposit unless you are placed on the Wait List. Please see below for information regarding: wait list, refunds or cancellation policies.

Wait List: Once the course or exam has reached full capacity remaining applicants who are not enrolled will be placed on a wait list. If you are waitlisted and space becomes available in the course or exam you applied for you will be contacted immediately to see if you are still available to take the program. Applicants have the option of taking themselves off of the wait list at any time and will receive full refund of deposit and $100.00 application fee. Please note that you are not enrolled in an AMGA course or exam until you are contacted by the AMGA office, taken off the wait list, and officially enrolled in the course or exam you applied for.

Cancellation Policy and Refund: In order to receive a refund of payment for dropping out of a course or exam you must let the AMGA office know your decision 6 weeks prior to the start of the program. Once the 6-week mark has past NO refunds will be issued regardless of the cause of cancellation, this includes injuries so be careful! Please remember that a $100.00 application fee will be deducted from your program payment and will only be refunded if: you did not receive enrollment status in the program you applied for, you were placed on a wait list and a space did not become available, or the AMGA cancels the program you are enrolled in. Trip cancellation insurance is recommended to recover fees lost due to injury or other factors.

AMGA PROGRAM UPDATE

wayne crill & kevin gallagher . diamond approach, long’s peak, palm sunday . 2004 lauren di scipio Payment: The AMGA office must receive your full course or exam payment 6 weeks prior to the start of the course or exam you are enrolled in.

IF PAYMENT IS NOT RECEIVED BY THAT TIME YOU WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO PARTICIPATE IN THE PROGRAM. Program prices are for tuition only. Any expenses, including camping, lodging, meals and/or transportation costs before, during or after a course or exam are the responsibility of the participant. In order to run AMGA programs professionally and efficiently it is important that all materials and payments are received by the required deadline dates.

Post Course and Exam Paperwork: After you have completed your AMGA course or exam you will receive by mail: your official course completion certificate or your exam certification certificate, your complimentary AMGA T-shirt (if requested on application form), and a copy of your student evaluation. Please remember that AMGA instructors have two weeks from the course completion to submit their post-course paperwork. Once the office receives and processes the post-course paperwork a mailing will be sent to all candidates.

Prices, program dates, ratios, and locations are subject to change without notice. Prices are subject to change depending on course enrollment. If a course or exam does not meet the minimum ratio the original cost may vary or the program may be canceled. AMGA APPLICATION PROCESS How to apply: q Step 1: Review Course Catalog. q Step 2: Submit Membership Application. All participants of AMGA courses and exams must be current members of the AMGA. To enroll in advanced level courses or exams candidates must be an Individual or Certified Individual Member of the AMGA. q Step 3: Select Course or Exam you want to apply for. q Step 4: Review prerequisites for course or exam you want to apply for. q Step 5: (Step 5-9 should be completed at the same time) If you meet the prerequisites submit completed Course or Exam Application Form located on page 44-47. q Step 6: Include signed copy of AMGA Liability Waiver located on page 48-51. q Step 7: EMAIL copies of required personal, guided/mock guided, and updated resumes to [email protected]. Examples of resumes located on pages 52-57. q Step 8: Include copies of required certifications (Medical for all courses and Exams and Avalanche Training for the Advanced Alpine Guide Course, Alpine Guide Exam, and all Ski courses and exams). q Step 9: Include program deposit in the form of check, money order, or credit card information (deposit is %25 of program tuition). To secure your spot in an AMGA Program the deposit is required in addition to your application, resumes, and signed waiver.

bill ramsey . the hood, mt. charleston, nv . 2006

Please mail all required application paperwork and payments to:

AMGA Attention: AMGA Programs PO BOX 1739 Boulder, CO 80306 lauren di scipio Please email personal, guided/mock guided and updated resumes, as well as, documentation of prior course completion recommendations (if you have successfully complete a basic or advanced level AMGA course) to the AMGA Program Director: Betsy Novak at [email protected] AMGA PROGRAMS AVAILABLE TO AMGA MEMBERS

The AMGA offers a variety of instructional programs in the areas of rock climbing, alpine climbing and ski mountaineering and touring.

The Top Rope Site Manager Program is the first course in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The Top Rope Site Manager Program trains outdoor instructors, aspiring guides and climbers who facilitate or seek to facilitate top rope climbing programs in group settings such as camps, schools, universities, therapeutic groups, and climbing schools.

To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Instructor you must 1st successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course 2nd Pass the 6-day Rock Instructor Exam.

To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Guide you must: 1st successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course. 2nd successfully complete and pass the 10-day Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam. 3rd Pass the 6-day Rock Guide Certification Exam.

The Alpine Program provides training for aspiring guides and experienced guides who work in a wide range of alpine environments, including alpine rock, mixed terrain, alpine ice, glaciated terrain, waterfall ice and high-altitude

brad durbin on rain, {listening to thunder} . the bastille, eldorado canyon . 2004 by lauren di scipio ascents. The Alpine Guide Program is a 4-step program.

To Receive Certification as an Alpine Guide You Must: 1st successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course 2nd successfully complete the 10-day Alpine Guide Course 3rd successfully complete and pass the 12-day Advanced Alpine Guide Course and Aspirant Exam 4th Pass the final 10-day Alpine Certification Exam

The Ski Program offers training for aspiring guides and experienced guides who work in a diverse range of ski environments, including backcountry ski touring, ski mountaineering, heli-skiing, and snow cat skiing. The Ski Guide Program is a 3-step program.

To receive AMGA certification as a Ski Mountaineering Guide you must 1st successfully complete the 12-day Ski Guide Course. 2nd successfully complete and pass the 10-day Ski Mountaineering Guide Course and Aspirant Exam. 3rd Pass the 8-day Ski Mountaineering Certification Exam. AMGA PROGRAM RATIOS

Below are the set program ratios and enrollment sizes for each course or exam.

Rock Discipline Top Rope Site Manager- 6:1 ratio and 12 participant maximum Rock Instructor Course- 3:1 ratio and 9 participant maximum Rock Instructor Exam- 2:1 ratio and 8 participant maximum Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam- 3:1 ratio and 9 participant maximum Rock Guide Exam- 2:1 ratio and 8 participant maximum

Alpine Discipline Alpine Guide Course- 3:1 ratio and 9 participant maximum Advanced Alpine Guide Course and Aspirant Exam- 3:1 ratio and 9 participant maximum Alpine Guide Exam-2:1 ratio and 8 participant maximum

Ski Discipline Ski Guide Course- 5:1 ratio and 10 participant maximum Ski Mountaineering Guide Course and Aspirant Exam- 4:1 ratio and 8 participant maximum Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam- 4:1 ratio and 8 participant maximum special operation forces mountain warfare training photo: markus beck, uiagm AMGA PROGRAM GOALS

Due to the complex demand, technical aspects and nature of all AMGA programs we have developed a strict set of required skills that each candidate must feel comfortable utilizing in a leadership role. We hope to ensure that these prerequisites enable you to adequately prepare for the demands of the program you are applying for and to help ensure the safety of all other participants.

Please respect the prerequisites and be sure your climbing and backcountry travel skills are well developed before you apply for an AMGA program. We do not cover techniques common to recreational climbing or skiing. These skills are assumed and are essential prerequisites.

Courses The primary goal of educational courses is to provide comprehensive training and evaluation by offering a hands-on-learning environment to all students. AMGA courses create an effective learning environment by combining structured lectures, skills stations, dem- onstrations, immediate feedback, constructive evaluation and practical guiding experience. During the advanced level courses you will spend a significant amount of time in a leadership position in which you guide or instruct participants and instructors.

Certification Exam The primary goal of the certification exam is to assess rock, alpine and ski guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards. During the exam you will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given to you by the examiners. Each participant will be expected to serve as the guide to the examiner and other candidates on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. Your duties as a guide will include route planning, client orientation, camp craft (for Alpine and Ski), and risk assessment and management. The final day of the exam includes a personal debrief and evaluation by the examiners.

Aspirant Exam The primary goal of the Aspirant Guide Program is to serve as an intermediate step in the process of becoming a certified guide. The Aspirant Exam occurs as an integral part of the AMGA advanced level courses and is specific to the discipline of the course. It is intended to help determine that a candidate’s guiding skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for professional guiding and serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Guide Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision.

Furthermore, the essential skills and abilities of the Aspirant Guide need to be comparable to those of a full guide. kevin gallagher in indian creek . 2004 by lauren di scipio 10 AMGA ASPIRANT EXAM OVERVIEW

wayne crill, clayton reagan and kevin gallagher on the “clean dan memorial route” {layton kor, first ascent.}, royal gorge . 2004 by lauren di scipio

What is the Aspirant Exam? The Aspirant Exam is a 3-day long assessment exam that will occur during the last 3-days of the Rock Guide Course, the Advanced Alpine Guide Course and the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course. The Aspirant Exam is designed to help determine if a candidate’s personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding, and to serve as preparation for the final Certification Exam.

Aspirant Objectives The Advanced Level Courses are divided into two educational components. The first component is instruction, which takes up the majority of the course and involves mentoring on real objectives, lectures, and immediate feedback. The 2nd educational component is assessment, which occurs during the 3-day long Aspirant Exam and involves examination on real objectives.

Guides who pass the Aspirant Exam will become AMGA Aspirant Guides in either the Rock, Alpine or Ski Mountaineering disciplines. Once an individual has successfully completed the Rock Guide Course, Advanced Alpine Guide Course, Ski Mountaineering Course, and has passed the Rock Guide Aspirant Exam, the Advanced Alpine Aspirant Exam and the Ski Mountaineering Aspirant Exam, they are eligible to receive an aspirant card. This credential allows Aspirant Guides to work for pay under the supervision of an IFMGA guide in IFMGA member countries, which has proven to be extremely helpful in the development of top-level guides.

Aspirant Standards The standard for aspirant status is sufficiently high to permit the Aspirant Guide to effectively guide clients in terrain and on routes considered to be at the international standard for that discipline. An Aspirant is essentially a guide that is capable of guiding objectives with indirect supervision by another certified supervising guide. The role of the supervising guide may be limited to helping determine appropriate assignments for the Aspirant.

Aspirant Exam Procedure Aspirant Exams occur as an integral part of the AMGA’s advanced level courses and are specific to the discipline of the course. Instruction and coaching will occur throughout the duration of the entire advanced level course, while assessment and examination will occur during the latter days of the course. The skills that will be assessed can be divided into two categories skills that are prerequisites to the course, such as movement skills, route finding, and hazard assessment, and skills that are learned and developed during the advanced level course.

Advanced Level Courses are now pass/fail in nature. Skills that are a prerequisite to enrollment of the course will be assessed during the first few days of the course. If a candidate does not perform at the required level for course entry they will be dropped from the advanced course at that time and will be required to retake the entire course at a later date. Skills that are an integral part of the course curriculumwill be examined at the certification exam level during the final 3 days of the course, after the candidate has had opportunity to practice them. If a candidate demonstrates acceptable performance on any of the assessment drills early in the course they can be checked off as “Pass”. If a candidate does not perform at the standard on any of the Aspirant Exam objectives they will be required to take the 3-day Aspirant Re-examination at a later date.

The final three days of the advanced level courses candidates will be tested through “Assessment Drills” that are specific to kevin gallagher in indian creek . 2004 by lauren di scipio each discipline. 11 AMGA ASSESSMENT CATAGORIES The Assessment Drills examined during the Aspirant Exam for each discipline are:: Rock Guide Course - Knot pass and 45 minute rock rescue drill. Advanced Alpine Guide Course - Knot pass and 45 minute rock rescue drill. Ski Mountaineering Guide Course - Avalanche transceiver search, rescue sled lowering and raising, bivouac construction.

There are nine different skill areas common to guiding that are assessed daily during all AMGA aspirant and certification exams. These areas are further broken down into other categories of assessment. Different emphasis may be placed on the varying categories depending on the exam discipline. The assessment categories evaluated during certification exams are Risk Management, Client Care, Technical Systems, Application, Terrain Assessment, Movement Skills, Mountain Sense, Professionalism, and Instructional Technique.

Risk Management Client Security-The candidate must maintain an adequate level of security for the client(s) given the objective conditions and the client profile. Hazard Recognition/Analysis- The candidate must recognize and analyze hazards that will affect risk, such as objective hazards and general internal and external hazards. Minimization of Risk- The candidate must minimize risk by use of all reasonable, appropriate measures. Guide Security- The candidate must maintain an adequate level of security for the guide given the objective and conditions.

Client Care Comfort- The candidate must be aware of comfort levels and ensure they do not compromise safety. Communication- The candidate must clearly & professionally communicate instructions for a safe, comfortable & enjoyable experience. Quality of Experience- The candidate must provide a rewarding and enjoyable experience within the confines of conditions, risk management, client profile and exam assignment.

Technical Systems Protection/Anchors/Belays- The candidate must understand and correctly use protection, anchor and belay techniques. Rappelling/Lowering- The candidate must understand and correctly use rappelling and lowering techniques. Rope Management- The candidate must understand and correctly use appropriate rope management techniques while using short-rope and pitched climbing techniques. Short-Roping/Pitching- The candidate must understand and correctly use short-roping and pitching techniques. Rescue Skills- The candidate must understand and correctly use rock, snow, and/or crevasse rescue systems and evacuation depending on discipline. hanging out near the red rock camp ground AGAIN m. just

jim spencer cruising on red rock in willow springs . 2007 by lauren di scipio 12 AMGA ASSESSMENT CATAGORIES

kevin murphy on an old layton kor route, royal gorge . wayne crill & kevin gallagher sort gear for peru in eldo . aron ralston tests some ‘new gear’ near independence pass, co . 2005 by lauren di scipio Navigation- (for Alpine and Ski only) The candidate must understand and correctly use map, compass, and altimeter, as well as create and implement an effective route plan.

Application The candidate must “apply the right technique in the right place at the right time.”

Terrain Assessment Route Selection- The candidate must assess assigned routes and use alternatives if required. Routefinding- The candidate must appropriately approach, ascend, and descend routes. Tracksetting- The candidate must set a comfortable, effective, efficient and safe track (for ski and alpine only).

Movement Skills Rock- The candidate must display smooth, confident and efficient movement while protecting, anchoring and belaying. Capable of guiding rock at 5.10b/c level.

Alpine- The candidate must display smooth, confident and efficient movement while protecting, anchoring, and belaying. Capable of guiding rock a 5.10b/c level in rock shoes, 5.7 in mountain boots and ice at WI 4. 3rd and 4th Class Terrain- The candidate must display efficient, safe and secure movement on 3rd and 4th class terrain.

Ski- the candidate must display efficient and confident skiing movement and is able to link dynamic turns in variable backcountry snow. Capable of ski guiding on firm snow slopes 45∞ or steeper, snow and ice climbing on up to 60∞ terrain, and comfort on 3rd, 4th and 5th class rock.

Fitness and Stamina- The candidate must be able to complete the days objective and maintain a reasonable margin of energy.

Pace and Time Management-The candidate must show efficient use of time and good pace given the days objective, conditions and client profile.

Mountain Sense Decision Making- The candidate must effectively identify, act upon and carry out options. Stress Management- The candidate must manage stress without unduly compromising performance. Error Correction- The candidate must correct errors in due time, without compromising safety & with minimum disruption of activity.

Professionalism Planning/Preparation- The candidate must plan and prepare adequately for trips and activities. This includes research, knowledge of options and alternatives. Client Orientation- The candidate must provide adequate information to the client. Environmental Consciousness- The candidate must exhibit current environmentally sensitive backcountry travel and climbing practices.

Instructional Techniques Lesson Planning-The candidate must use an implement appropriate lesson plans and teaching progressions. Pedagogy- The candidate must understand and use a variety of teaching methods that are adaptable to learner types and communicate clearly with a positive attitude.

spencer cruising on red rock in willow springs . 2007 by lauren di scipio Coaching Tips- The candidate must provide appropriate coaching and tips to assist making a comfortable and rewarding experience. 13 AMGA PREREQUISITES & EXAMPLE CLIMBS

Program Prerequisites The prerequisites listed in this catalog are presented as minimum requirements. A high level of climbing and skiing experience and expertise is assumed for those who enter AMGA programs. Course participants are often put in leadership roles on difficult routes. Your personal climbing and skiing experience enables you to deal with the normal challenges associated with serious outdoor pursuits. The role of the prerequisites is to ensure that all course participants possess the climbing ability and background needed to fully participate in all aspects of the course without endangering or limiting other participants.

Example Climbs The following list of climbs exemplifies the length and difficulty of routes that are expected in your application resume. If your resume lacks a significant number of diverse climbs you should seek to expand your personal climbing repertoire before taking on the added challenges AMGA courses will present.

Rock Instructor Course Bastille Crack 5.8, Eldorado Canyon, CO Vertigo 5.9, Cannon Cliff, NH Book of Solemnity 5.10a, Cathedral Ledge, NH Straight & Narrow 5.10a, Shortoff Mountain, NC

Rock Guide Course Mainliner 5.9 IV, Sundance Buttress, Estes Park, CO Journey Home 5.10 IV, Black Canyon, CO Inti Wantana 5.10 IV, Red Rocks, NV Original Route 5.10c IV, Whitesides, NC

Alpine Guide Course Complete Exum Ridge 5.7 IV, Grand Teton, WY Stettners Ledges 5.7 to Keiners 5.4 V AI II, RMNP, CO Mt Mendel Coulior III AI III, The Sierra Nevada

Advanced Alpine Guide Course North Ridge of Forbidden from Boston Basin 5.9 IV, N. Cascades, WA Coleman Headwall IV AI IV, Mount Baker, WA North Face of Shuksan East Ridge 5.6 IV AI III, N. Cascades, WA

Ski Guide Course Jackson, WY Crested Butte, CO The Sierra, CA

Ski Mountaineering Guide Course La Grave, France Valdez, AK

this one: eric johnson belyaing chip ruckgraber on the bastille . eldo . that one: red rocks . 04/06 by lauren di scipio North Cascades, WA

14 AMGA DEFINITION OF MOCK GUIDING

Between courses and exams candidates are required to gain additional experience to prepare themselves for the advanced level courses or exams. Candidates have the option of completing a select number of either guiding or mock guiding days per the prerequisites. A mock guided day occurs when a candidate acts as a guide to a non-paying cohort. Mock guided days should be performed in the same manner as a paid day of professional guiding where the non-paying cohort acts as the client. To gain full value from this learning experience the candidate should remain in role as guide the entire duration, solving all problems from a guiding perspective. If a candidate steps out of role as the guide, or has to ask the client to step out of role, that day should not be documented as a mock guide day. Candidates are expected to clearly document all mock guided days on their resumes. from top left cw: bugaboo spires, b.c., canada . longs peak, colorado . aiguille du midi, chamonix, france . longs peak, colorado . by markus beck, uiagm 15 AMGA TOP ROPE SITE MANAGER FLOWCHART TOP ROPE PROGRAM

Certifi cation is valid for The Top Rope Site Manager three years providing the AMGA Certifi ed Recertifi cation consists of AMGA Top Rope Site Man- a two day course; one day ager is a current member of Top Rope curriculum review and one the AMGA and holds valid Site Manager day evaluation. First Aid Certifi cation.

Candidates that have successfully completed the 40 hour TRSM Course can elect Top Rope Site to take the one day certiﬁ ca- Manager Certiﬁ cation tion exam at anytime up to 3 Exam years after course completion.

Course fees include one-year AMGA Associate Member- Top Rope Site Manager Course ship dues.

16 WWW.AMGA.COM 17 AMGA Programs TOP ROPE SITE MANAGER PROGRAM

The AMGA Top Rope Site

Manager Course

(TRSM) emphasizes the

technical and education

proficiency necessary to

safely and professionally

instruct rock climbing and

climbing related activities

in a group setting.

The course is designed

for outdoor instructors,

aspiring guides,

and climbers who

facilitate top rope

climbing programs

in group settings

such as camps,

schools,

universities,

therapeutic

groups

and

climbing

schools. wayne crill . golden, colorado . 2005 by lauren di scipio 17 AMGA TOP ROPE SITE MANAGER CERTIFICATION

To Receive AMGA Certification as a Top Rope Site Manager You Must: 1st successfully complete the 4-day Top Rope Site Manager Course 2nd pass the final Top Rope Site Manager Certification Exam

Course Area Contract providers offer Top Rope Site Manager Courses throughout the United States. TRSM course areas are decided by the contract providers and vary depending on course location. For more information with regards to availability of TRSM courses and locations please visit the AMGA website www.amga.com.

Course Length The Top Rope Site Manager Course is 4-days in length with either a one or two day long certification exam (2 days if your certification exam is not taken with your original course instructor). The certification exam for the TRSM course can be taken immediately after the successful completion of the course or anytime up to 3 years after the course. Time for consolidation and practice of new skills learned is highly recommended and candidates that take time between the course and exam commonly do better on the exam.

Prerequisites for the Top Rope Site Manager Course You have at least 2 years prior climbing experience. Provide a personal rock resume showing the following: You have at least 40 days of recreational climbing and/or climbing instruction in the past 2 years or you have a minimum of 5 years climbing experience. You are able to safely and comfortably set up top rope climbs, belay stations and rappel stations without guidance. You are familiar with basic anchoring principles both natural and artificial anchors (wedges, hexes, passive and active cams). You are capable of comfortably climbing up to 5.8 terrain while on top rope. You possess the personal equipment necessary for the TRSM course (rope, artificial gear rack, runners, Cordelettes, belay devices and anchor line, etc). Traditional lead climbing experience is highly recommended but not required. Provide copy of current basic first aid and CPR certifications. You are at least 18 years of age

Skills taught and developed during the Top Rope Site Manager Course Guide skills and technique Equipment selection Belay systems and back-up belay methods Belay transfers Knots Rappelling methods Effective anchoring techniques Edge management Single pitch rescue Establishing and managing redirected and traditional top rope sites Hazard evaluation and risk management Legal and ethical expectations and responsibilities Teaching methodology Effective student coaching Leave No Trace

If you are unsure of your skill levels please contact the AMGA National Office at 303-271-0984 or your local Top Rope Site Manager Course Provider for further guidance.

18 Rock Guide PRoGRam AMGA ROCK GUIDE FLOWCHART Rock Guide Flowchart

Rock Guide Certification is one of the components Rock Guide required for IFMGA Certification Exam recognition.

Rock guide course & aspirant Exam

Guides pursuing Rock Rock Instructor Certifica- Guide Certification or tion is for those who’s guid- Rock Instructor IFMGA Mountain Guide ing is on shorter routes, up Certification Exam Certification may elect to to about Grade III. skip the Rock Instructor Certification Exam.

Rock Instructor course

www.amga.com 19

19 AMGA ROCK GUIDE PROGRAM

The Rock Program trains and examines aspiring guides and experienced guides who work in a variety of rock environments, including areas with long, complex routes and technical descents. Currently, there are two levels of rock certification. The first is the Rock Instructor Certification. It is designed for guides or aspiring guides who work on routes that are Grade III or shorter. While these routes are multi-pitch, they are relatively straightforward and may not involve complex approaches and/or descents. Time factors, while important, are not as pressing on these routes. During the Rock Instructor Certification Exam candidates will be examined on climbs through Grade III.

To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Instructor you must 1st successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course 2nd Pass the 6-day Rock Instructor Exam.

The second level is the Rock Guide Certification. It is designed for guides or aspiring guides who work on routes that are Grade IV or V. Participants will be expected to display full competence in areas such as short roping and multiple-client guiding. Candidates do not have to take the Rock Instructor Exam to apply for the Rock Guide Course and continue on the Rock Guide Certification track.

ROCK INSTRUCTOR COURSE OVERVIEW The Rock Instructor Course is the 1st step in the Rock Guide education and certification process and is designed for aspiring guides who have a strong rock climbing background and for instructors who are interested in improving their skills and increasing knowledge. The Rock Instructor Course places strong emphasis on maximizing client rewards while effectively managing risks. The Rock Instructor Course is a prerequisite to taking the Rock Guide Course and the Alpine Guide Course.

Course Area The Rock Instructor Course trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III in length and 5.10a in difficulty. Course areas include, but are not limited to, Joshua Tree National Park, Eldorado State Park, Lumpy Ridge, Crowder’s Mountain State Park, Shawngunks, and Cathedral Ledge.

Course Length The Rock Instructor Course is 10-days in length and is a prerequisite to taking the Rock Guide Course, and the Alpine Guide Course.

Prerequisites for Rock Instructor Course You are a current Associate Member of the AMGA. You have at least 5 years of rock climbing experience. Provide a personal climbing resume showing each of the following: That you have led or shared lead on at least 50 different multi-pitch traditional routes, 5 of which should be Grade III 4 of which should be Grade IV or longer. 10 of which should be traditional routes rated 5.10a or harder on various rock types. You can safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10a at the time of the course. You are familiar with basic knots, including figure-8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule-hitch, prussik, double fisherman’s and klemheist. You are confident with placing traditional protection including hexes, stoppers, tri-cams, and SCLD’s. You are comfortable using mechanical (more than two types of belay devices including auto locking devices) and non-mechanical (hip belay) belay methods. You are familiar with the use of plate type devices on multi-pitch rappels. Provide copy of current basic first aid certification or better. You are at least 18 years of age. 20 AMGA ROCK GUIDE PROGRAM Skills taught and developed during the Rock Instructor Course: Client orientation and preparation Equipment and protection selection Time and pace management Descending techniques Improvised non-mechanical ascending Anchor construction Choosing appropriate belay methods and stances Multi-pitch station management Rappelling and lowering with clients Multiple client guiding Short roping and short pitching techniques Belay escapes Raising systems for guiding Hazard recognition and risk management Guide’s notebook Improvised harnesses Guide’s pack Client care Emergency procedures Pedagogy Leave No Trace practices and techniques sarah hayden & megan mahaffey on the bastille . eldo . 2004 by lauren di scipio Review of Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam assessment remove

ROCK INSTRUCTOR EXAM OVERVIEW The Rock Instructor Exam is the 2nd step in the Rock Instructor Certification process. The Rock Instructor Exam certifies rock instructors that demonstrate a high level of expertise consistent with the standards introduced in the 10-day Rock Instructor Course. Basic short-roping skills must be demonstrated. The exam serves both to assess and educate. Daily debriefs and critiques provide an opportunity for improving guiding skills.

The first 5 days of the exam are conducted on routes chosen by the examiners. During the climbs participants serve as guides to the examiners and other participants and will encounter complex guiding and route-finding situations through grade III climbs. Participants are required to solve a specific rescue scenario at a scheduled time. Details are available from the office. In addition, impromptu rescue situations can occur at any time during the exam. Throughout the exam, particular focus is placed on client and guide security. Rock Instructor Certification is designed for guides or aspiring guides who work on routes that are Grade III or shorter. While these routes are multi-pitch, they are relatively straightforward and may not involve complex approaches and/or descents. Time factors, while important, are not as pressing on these routes. During the Rock Instructor Certification Exam candidates will be examined on climbs through Grade III and up to 5.10a in difficulty.

To receive AMGA certification as a Rock Instructor you must: 1st successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course 2nd Pass the 6-day Rock Instructor Exam.

Exam Area The Rock Instructor Exam examines guides in a broad range of skills essential to guiding in a variety of rock environments. Exam areas include but are not limited to Joshua Tree, Lumpy Ridge, Looking Glass, Cathedral Ledge and Eldorado

Canyon. eldorado canyon . 2005 by lauren di scipio 21 AMGA ROCK GUIDE PROGRAM Rock Instructor Exam Overview Continued

Exam Length The Rock Instructor Exam is 6-days in length. Prerequisites for the Rock Instructor Exam You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA. You have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application. Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Rock Instructor Course evaluation. Provide an updated rock climbing resume showing each of the following Since completing the Rock Instructor Course have led or shared lead on at least 7 routes Grade III. Since completing the Rock Instructor Course you have led or shared lead on at least 3 routes Grade IV. Since completing the Rock Instructor Course you have led 10 different traditional routes rated 5.10a or harder. You can safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10a A0 or harder at the time of the exam. You copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT.

An AMGA Certified Rock Instructor should be able to On sight guide 2 clients at a 5.10a level up to and through grade III Climb traditional and sport protected climbs at a 5.10a level fluidly and comfortably. Demonstrate a good knowledge of industry standard equipment. Create and implement improvised rescue in vertical terrain. Demonstrate a working knowledge of short-roping. Demonstrate proficiency of terrain assessment, potential hazards, risk management and client care. Show an understanding and practice of Leave No Trace.

ROCK GUIDE COURSE/ ASPIRANT EXAM OVERVIEW The Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam is the 2nd step in the rock guiding education and certification process. The Rock Guide Course is designed to include all Rock Instructor level terrain as well as climbs of much greater length including, but not limited to, big wall, aid climbs, and climbs where significant short roping is necessary to safeguard clients on approaches and/or descents. The Rock Guide Course covers the tools used when guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V in length. It also covers management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, lowering and rappelling, management of transitions, and short roping and short pitching techniques. Emphasis is placed on effectively managing risks and maximizing client rewards.

All candidates must have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course in order to be considered for enrollment into the Rock Guide Course.

Course Area The Rock Guide Course trains guides in a broad range of skills essential to guiding in a variety of rock environments, including areas with long and complex routes. Course areas include but are not limited to Red Rocks National Conservation Area, Black Canyon National Park, and Eldorado Canyon State Park.

Course Length The Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam is 10-days in length. The final 3-days of the course will be the aspirant exam.

Rock Guide Aspirant Exam The Aspirant Guide Program is designed to serve as an intermediate step in the process of becoming a certified guide. The Aspirant Exam occurs as an integral part of the AMGA advanced level courses and is specific to the discipline of the course. It is intended to help determine that a candidate’s personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding and serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Guide Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Furthermore, the essential skills and abilities of the Aspirant Guide need to be comparable to those of a full guide.

The Rock Guide Course will be divided into two components: Component One includes instruction and practical experience. Component Two Aspirant Exam

22 AMGA ROCK GUIDE PROGRAM During the Rock Guide Course candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the course instructors. The majority of course time is spent with students leading ascents and descents in complex rock environments. Candidates will serve as guides to the instructors and other course participants. During the 3-day Rock Aspirant Exam candidates will be assessed and examined on their ability to perform specific objectives on terrain and in conditions appropriate to the rock discipline.

The Rock Guide Course is now pass/fail in nature. Skills that are a prerequisite to enrollment of the course will be assessed during the first few days of the course. If a candidate does not perform at the required level for course entry they will be dropped from the advanced course at that time and will be required to retake the entire course at a later date.

Skills that are an integral part of the course curriculum will be examined at the certification exam level during the final 3 days of the course, after the candidate has had opportunity to practice them. If a candidate demonstrates acceptable performance on any of the assessment drills early in the course they can be checked off as “Pass”. If a candidate does not perform at the standard on any of the Aspirant Exam objectives they will be required to take the 3-day Aspirant Re-examination at a later date.

Prerequisites for the Rock Guide Course You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA. You have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application. Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Rock Instructor Course evaluation. Provide an updated rock climbing resume showing each of the following Since completing the Rock Instructor Course you have mock guided/guided 20 days on multi-pitch routes grade III or longer. Since completing the Rock Instructor Course you have led or shared lead on 10 different traditional routes rated 5.10c or harder. Since competing the Rock Instructor Course you have led or shared lead on at least 5 grade IV or longer. You can safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10c or harder at the time of the course. Provide copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT.

Skills taught and developed during the Rock Guide Course Advanced short-roping and short pitching techniques for single and multi-client scenarios Refinement of application skills Greater efficiency with complex transitions between climbing, short roping, short pitching, lowering, and rappelling Greater efficiency guiding multiple clients on longer more demanding routes Decision making in a complex environment Client security and guide security A broader understanding of risk management Effective pace and time management Stress management Error correction Pedagogy Coaching tips and effective communication

Skills assessed during the Rock Guide Aspirant Exam Movement Skills Knot pass Rescue systems boulos ayad on pansee sauvage, eldorado canyon . 2004 by lauren di scipio 23 AMGA ROCK GUIDE PROGRAM Rock Guide Certification Exam Overview

The goals of the 6-day Rock Guide Certification Exam are to assess rock-climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of the exam candidates.

During the exam candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. Candidates will serve as guides to the examiners and to the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. Candidates acting as a guide will be responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management and normal guiding practices. Route or tour assignments will usually be given the night before. Client profiles will also be explained. Candidates will be responsible for obtaining information regarding the assigned route and alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.

Daily debriefs and critiques provide an opportunity for improving guiding skills. The longer routes (Grade IV and V) undertaken on the Rock Guide Certification Exam require proficiency with multi-client belaying techniques, strong application skills, efficient climbing and protective systems skills and quick and accurate transitions. A heavier emphasis is placed on expertise in short roping clients on longer routes than in the Rock Instructor Certification Exam. The final day of the exam will include personal debrief and exam evaluation.

In order to receive AMGA certification as a Rock Guide you must 1st successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course 2nd successfully complete and pass the 10-day Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam 3rd Pass the 6-day Rock Guide Certification Exam

Prerequisites for Rock Guide Certification Exam You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA. You have successfully completed the Rock Guide Course, which requires that you have passed the Aspirant Exam. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application. Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Rock Guide Course evaluation. Provide an updated rock climbing resume showing each of the following Since completing the Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam you mock guided/guided 20 days on multi-pitch traditional routes 3 of which need to be on grade IV 7 of which need to be on grade III You can safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10c/A2 or harder at the time of the exam. You copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT.

A mock-guided day occurs when a candidate acts as a guide to a non-paying cohort. Mock guided days should be performed in the same manner as a paid day of professional guiding where the non-paying cohort acts as the client. If a candidate steps out of role as the guide, or has to ask the client to step out of role, that day should not be documented as a mock guide day. Candidates are expected to clearly document all mock-guided days on their resumes.

An AMGA Certified Rock Guide should be able to On sight guide 2 clients at a 5.10b/c level up to and through grade V. Climb traditional and sport protected climbs at a 5.10 level fluidly and comfortably. Demonstrate competency in the following risk management, and client care. Demonstrate proficiency with short roping techniques in technically demanding terrain. Demonstrate a working knowledge of industry standards in equipment Create and implement improvised rescue techniques in vertical terrain. Use the right technique at the right time. Show a working knowledge of Leave No Trace Principles.

24 mike lorenzo in red rock, nv . lauren di scipio river tower camp . between the titon and the colorado river, utah 25 AMGA ALPINE GUIDE FLOWCHART

26 AMGA ALPINE GUIDE PROGRAM The Alpine Guide Program provides training for aspiring guides and experienced guides who work in a wide range of alpine environments, including alpine rock, mixed terrain, alpine ice, waterfall ice and heavily-glaciated mountaineering terrain. The Alpine Guide Program is a 4-step program.

To receive certification as an Alpine Guide you must: 1st successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course 2nd successfully complete the 10-day Alpine Guide Course 3rd successfully complete and pass the 12-day Advanced Alpine Guide Course and Aspirant Exam 4th Pass the final 10-day Alpine Certification Exam

Alpine Guide Course Overview The Alpine Guide Course is the 2nd step in the alpine guide education and certification process and places strong emphasis on hands- on approach to the mechanics of guiding on alpine terrain.

Course Area The course area often includes but is not limited to non-glaciated, alpine terrain in the Rocky Mountains and the North Cascades.

Course Length All candidates enrolled in the Alpine Guide Course must have first successfully completed the AMGA Rock Instructor Course or Rock Guide Course. The Alpine Guide Course is 10-days in length.

Prerequisites for Alpine Guide Course: You are an Associate Member of the AMGA. You have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application. You have at least 5 years of alpine climbing experience. Provide personal alpine climbing resumé showing each of the following: You have led or shared lead on at least 40 different alpine climbs in at least 2 different areas (i.e. Cascades and Alaska). 10 of which should be on alpine rock routes rated 5.8 or harder and grade III or longer after the approach. 10 of which should be on different alpine technical snow, ice or mixed climbs. 5 of which should be on different ice climbs rated WI4 or harder. You are confident with basic knots, including figure-8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, prussik, klemheist, and double fisherman’s. You are able to place traditional protection and construct anchors. You are able to employ Classic (French) crampon techniques on 40 degree hard, frozen, snow in ascent and descent. You are able to safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.6 in stiff mountaineering boots. You are able to safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10a in rock shoes. You are comfortable using the hip belay method. You are competent reading a map and using a compass. You are familiar with Leave No Trace practices and techniques. You are able to use more than one type of device on multi-pitch rappels. You copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT. long’s approach 2005 by lauren di scipio 27 AMGA ALPINE GUIDE PROGRAM Alpine Guide Course Overview Continued Skills taught and developed during the Alpine Guide Course Efficient travel through 3rd and 4th class terrain Short-rope and short-pitch techniques on snow and rock Techniques for managing multiple clients Track setting Navigation skills Macro and micro-route finding skills Evaluating anchor construction as it relates to guiding Choosing appropriate belay methods for rock and snow Efficiently organizing belay stances for multiple clients Descending with clients Escaping belays Managing client safety in 3rd and 4th class terrain Guide’s anchors in rock, snow and ice Time and pace management Small team rescues Improvised ascending methods Strategies for rappelling and lowering clients Safety management in guiding context Lesson plans Pedagogy peru by beto santillán . www.andesmadness.com Coaching tips and effective communication

ADVANCED ALPINE GUIDE COURSE/ASPIRANT EXAM The Advanced Alpine Guide Course is the 3rd step in the alpine guiding education and certification process. The Advanced Alpine Guide Course is designed for skilled climbers who wish to further develop their skills and techniques used while instructing and guiding in a glaciated alpine setting. The course covers the tools used when guiding and instructing on routes up to and including Grade V length. It also covers management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, management and movement of multiple clients and small team rescue skills. Emphasis is on effectively managing risks and maximizing client rewards.

All candidates must have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course and the Alpine Guide Course in order to be considered for enrollment into the Advanced Alpine Guide Course.

Course Area The course is held in major glaciated, alpine ranges including, but not limited to, the North Cascades, the Bugaboos, European Alps, Canadian Ice Fields and alpine ranges of Alaska.

Course Length The Advanced Alpine Guide Course and Aspirant Exam is 12-days in length. The final 3-days of the course will be the aspirant exam.

Advanced Alpine Guide Aspirant Exam The Aspirant Guide Program is designed to serve as an intermediate step in the process of becoming a certified guide. The Aspirant Exam occurs as an integral part of the AMGA advanced level courses and is specific to the discipline of the course. It is intended to help determine that a candidate’s guiding skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding and serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Guide Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Furthermore, the essential skills and abilities of the Aspirant Guide need to be comparable to those of a full guide.

The Advanced Alpine Guide Course will be divided into two components: Component One includes instruction and practical experience. Component Two Aspirant Exam

During the Advanced Alpine Guide Course candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the course instructors. The majority of course time is spent with students leading ascents and descents in complex alpine environments. 28 AMGA ALPINE GUIDE PROGRAM Candidates will serve as guides to the instructors and other course participants. During the 3-day Alpine Aspirant Exam candidates will be assessed and examined on their ability to perform specific objectives on terrain and in conditions appropriate to the alpine discipline. The Advanced Alpine Guide Course is now pass/fail in nature. Skills that are a prerequisite to enrollment of the course will be assessed during the first few days of the course. If candidate does not perform at the required level for course entry they will be dropped from the advanced course at that time and will be required to retake the entire course at a later date. Skills that are an integral part of the course curriculum will be examined at the exam certification level towards the end of the course, after the candidate has had opportunity to practice them. If a candidate demonstrates acceptable performance on any of the assessment drills early in the course they can be checked off as “Pass”. If a candidate does not perform at the standard on any of the Aspirant Exam objectives they will be required to take the 3-day Aspirant Re-examination at a later date.

Prerequisites for Advanced Alpine Guide Course: You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA. You have successfully completed the Alpine Guide Course. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application. Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Alpine Guide Course evaluation. Provide an updated alpine climbing resume showing each of the following: Since completing the Alpine Guide Course you mock guided/guided 10 days in diverse alpine terrain. Since completing the Alpine Guide Course you have led or shared lead on at least 10 different glacier routes with significant crevasse difficulties. Since completing the Alpine Guide Course you have led or shared lead on at least 5 different alpine routes rated grade IV or longer. Since completing the Alpine Guide Course you have led or shared lead on at least 5 ice climbs rated WI4 or harder. You are confident with the following guiding techniques short roping, short pitching, lowering, rappelling and associated transitions. You are familiar with multiple-client guiding, including two clients climbing at the same time on two different ropes. You are comfortable route finding on complex glaciated terrain. Are able to safely and comfortably lead 5.7 crack and face climbs in stiff mountaineering boots. Are able to safely and comfortably lead 5.10a crack and face climbs in rock shoes. Are able to employ classic (French) crampon techniques on 40 degree hard, frozen snow in ascent and descent. Provide a copy of current Wilderness First Responder or better. Provide copy of completion of an AMGA approved Level II avalanche course.

A mock guided day occurs when a candidate acts as a guide to a non-paying cohort. Mock guided days should be performed in the same manner as a paid day of professional guiding where the non-paying cohort acts as the client. If a candidate steps out of role as the guide, or has to ask the client to step out of role, that day should not be documented as a mock guide day. Candidates are expected to clearly document all mock guided days on their resumes. Skills taught and developed during the Advanced Alpine Guide Course: Glacier travel for guiding Crevasse rescue for guides Additional technical rescue techniques Advanced solutions for belay station transitions Short roping and short pitching on glacial ice Short and long roping techniques for glaciated terrain Managing technical descents Assessing risk management of clients Guide security and safety Developing on-sight guiding techniques Client care and customer service skills Professional standards in guiding Lesson planning Pedagogy Coaching tips and effective communication Skills assessed during Advanced Alpine Guide Aspirant Exam Movement skills on ice, rock and 3rd and 4th class terrain Rock rescue systems

Knot pass peru by beto santillán . www.andesmadness.com 29 AMGA ALPINE GUIDE PROGRAM

ALPINE GUIDE CERTIFICATION EXAM The goals of the 10-day Alpine Guide Certification Exam are to assess alpine climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of the exam candidates.

During the exam candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. Candidates will serve as guides to the examiners and to the other candidates on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. Candidates acting as a guide will be responsible for: route planning, client orientation, camp craft, risk management and normal guiding practices. Route or tour assignments will usually be given the night before. Client profiles will also be explained. Candidates will be responsible for obtaining information regarding the assigned route and alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.

The first 9 days of the exam are conducted on routes chosen by the examiners. Alpine terrain includes glaciated and non-glaciated peaks, approaches and climbs, with no limitation. It includes rock climbs, peak ascents, and waterfall climbs. The final day of the exam will include a personal debrief and exam evaluation.

In order to receive AMGA certification as an Alpine Guide you must: 1st successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course 2nd successfully complete the 10-day Alpine Guide Course 3rd successfully complete and pass the 10-day Advanced Alpine Guide Course and Aspirant Exam 4th Pass the 10-day Alpine Guide Certification Exam

Prerequisites for Alpine Guide Certification Exam You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA. You have successfully completed the Advanced Alpine Guide Course, which requires that you have passed the Aspirant Exam. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application. Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Advanced Alpine Guide Course evaluation. Provide an updated alpine climbing resume showing each of the following: Since completing the Advanced Alpine Guide Course you have mock guided/guided 10 days in diverse alpine terrain. Since completing the Advanced Alpine Guide Course you have led or shared lead on at least 5 different alpine routes. You have led or shared lead on at least 5 alpine routes rated grade IV or longer. You have led or shared lead on at least 10 traditional rock climbs rated 5.10 or harder You copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT. You have completed an AMGA approved Level III avalanche course.

An AMGA Certified Alpine Guide should be able to: On-sight guide 2 clients at a 5.10a level up to grade V in an alpine rock environment in rock shoes. Move efficiently and quickly with 2 clients in alpine terrain by transitioning between short-roping and short-pitching techniques. Climb traditional and sport protected climbs at a 5.10 level fluidly and comfortably. Climb Waterfall Ice 4 fluidly and comfortably. Move over 3rd, 4th and 5th class terrain fluidly and comfortably in mountain boots. Ability to comfortably employ Classic (French) crampon and ice axe techniques on terrain up to 50 degrees. Demonstrate a good knowledge of short roping and transitions in technically demanding terrain. Demonstrate a good knowledge of industry standards for equipment. Implement improvised rescue in vertical terrain. Demonstrate a good understanding of avalanche assessment and management techniques. Apply the appropriate guiding assessment while assessing potential hazards and managing risk to an appropriate level. Demonstrate complete mastery of backcountry navigation using all available tools including GPS. Show a complete understanding and practice of Leave No Trace techniques.

30 Ski Guide ProGram AMGA SKI GUIDE FLOWCHART Ski Guide Flowchart

Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification is required for Ski Mountaineering individuals pursuing IFMGA Ski Mountaineering Certification is one recognition. Ski Guide Cer- of the components tification isnot necessary to Guide Certification take the Ski Mountaineering Exam required for IFMGA Exam. recognition.

This second step for IFMGA- Ski mountaineering track individuals requires course & completion of the Ski Moun- taineering Course. aspirant Exam

The first step in the AMGA Ski Program requires four Ski guide years of personal ski tour- course ing experience.

www.amga.com 35

31 AMGA SKI PROGRAM

Ski Guide and Ski Mountaineering Guide Program trains and examines aspiring guides and experienced guides who work in a wide range of backcountry skiing environments including lift-access backcountry, mechanically supported ski guiding, human powered ski touring, easy 4th and 5th class ascents and skiing descents up to 50 degrees in heavily glaciated mountaineering terrain. The Ski Guide Program is a 3-step program.

SKI GUIDE COURSE OVERVIEW The Ski Guide Course is the 1st step in the AMGA Ski Program. The Ski Guide Course is designed for skiers who wish to learn the skills and techniques used while instructing and guiding in a non-glaciated, yet possible high-mountain backcountry setting. The course covers the tools used when guiding and instructing on multi-day ski tours. It also covers management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical ascents and descents, management and movement of multiple clients and small team rescues. Emphasis is placed on effectively managing risks and maximizing client rewards. Glacier travel and crevasse hazards and sustained technical mountaineering challenges are generally not covered in this course.

Course Area The course will include one or two days skiing at a nearby resort, peak ascents including one bivouac and several nights in huts or ski camping. Course areas often include but are not limited to, the Rocky Mountains, Sierra Nevada, Cascades and the Tetons.

Course Length The Ski Guide Course is 12-days in length.

Prerequisites for Ski Guide Course: You are a current AMGA Associate Member. You have four years of personal ski touring experience, including leading multi-day tours and peak ascents. Provide a personal ski touring resume showing each of the following: 20 different ski tours from the past two years- detailed with date(s), specific location, total elevation gain and loss, total horizontal mileage, and maximum slope angle 5 of which are on 40 degree terrain or steeper 5 of which are day tours that include greater than or equal to 4500 vertical feet of ascent and 4500 vertical feet of descent 5 of which are multi-day tours using huts or ski camping You are able to ascend and descend on skis an average of 4500 vertical feet per day with little problem. You demonstrate expert skiing skills and can comfortably ski black and double-black diamond terrain at a level well beyond the aver age recreational skier. You must demonstrate the ability to adjust technique to ski in a variety of snow conditions on diverse terrain including long sustained descents up to 50. You are experienced with general rope management skills including Basic knots and climbing harnesses. Choosing appropriate belay and rappel methods for rock and snow. You have experience snow climbing with ice axe and crampons and are comfortable with self-belay and self-arrest. You have basic tour planning skills. You are able to navigate in whiteout conditions. You are competent with transceiver use and rescue in multiple burial scenarios. You have completed an AMGA approved Level II avalanche course. Provide a copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT. You are at least 18 years of age.

32 AMGA SKI PROGRAM

General Guiding Skills taught during the Ski Guide Course: Overview of AMGA Certification process Guiding techniques vs. Recreational techniques Guides Professionalism Guiding with reference to Leave No Trace Guiding history in U.S and abroad Introduction to Time Planning Guides meeting process Risk Management planning Guides auxiliary gear Rope handling skills Knots Friction hitches Harnesses and improvised harnesses Guides anchoring skills Guides belaying techniques Client Orientation and assessment Short pitching Introduction to Short Roping Rappelling techniques and backups Lowering techniques Knot pass and releasable systems Raising systems

Additional Skills taught during the 12-day Ski Guide Course: Skiing skills evaluation Skiing techniques for ski guides Wedge turns Wedge Christie turns Stem Christie turns Parallel/telemark turns Dynamic parallel/telemark turns Hop parallel/telemark turns Pedal hop turns Avalanche/snow safety gear Stability evaluation Hazard assessment Uphill guiding Downhill guiding Bivouac technique Transceiver/rescue assessment Client orientation and preparation Guide field book methodology Equipment selection Time and pace management telemark skiing on indian peaks power . by peter roper Track setting Rope management Sled rescue Evaluating risk management in guiding Leave No Trace Review of certification exam testing procedures 33 AMGA SKI PROGRAM

SKI MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE COURSE/ASPIRANT EXAM OVERVIEW The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course is the 2nd step in the ski mountaineering guide education and certification process. The Ski Mountaineering Course is designed for skilled skiers and climbers who wish to learn the skills and techniques used while instructing and guiding on complex glaciated terrain. The course covers the tools used when guiding and instructing on glaciated alpine routes. It also covers management of 3rd, 4th and possibly 5th class terrain, technical descents, management and movement of multiple clients, and small team rescues. Emphasis is placed on effectively managing risks and maximizing client rewards. All candidates must have successfully completed the Ski Guide Course in order to be considered for enrollment into the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course.

Course Area The course will include multi-day ski tours and peak ascents. The course areas include, but are not limited to, the Cascades, European Alps and the Chugach Range of Alaska.

Course Length The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course and Aspirant Exam is 10-days in length. The final 3-days of the course will be the aspirant exam.

Ski Mountaineering Guide Aspirant Exam The Aspirant Guide Program is designed to serve as an intermediate step in the process of becoming a certified guide. The Aspirant Exam occurs as an integral part of the AMGA advanced level courses and is specific to the discipline of the course. It is intended to help determine that a candidate’s personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding and serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Guide Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Furthermore, the essential skills and abilities of the Aspirant Guide need to be comparable to those of a full guide.

The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course will be divided into two components: Component One includes instruction and practical experience Component Two Aspirant Exam

During the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course candidates given by the course instructors. The majority of course time is spent with students leading ascents and descents in complex ski mountaineering environments. Candidates will serve as guides to the instructors and other course participants. During the 3-day Ski Mountaineering Guide Aspirant Exam candidates will be assessed and examined at the certification exam level on their ability to perform specific objectives on terrain and in conditions appropriate to the ski mountaineering discipline.

The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course is now pass/fail in nature. Skills that are a prerequisite to enrollment of the course will be assessed during the first few days of the course. If a candidate does not perform at the required level for course entry they will be dropped from the advanced course at that time and will be required to retake the entire course at a later date.

Skills that are an integral part of the course curriculum will be examined at the exam certification level towards the end of the course, after the candidate has had opportunity to practice them. If a candidate demonstrates acceptable performance on any of the assessment drills early in the course they can be checked off as “Pass”. If a candidate does not perform at the standard on any of the Aspirant Exam objectives they will be required to take the 3-day Aspirant Re-examination at a later date. flatirons & indian peaks . 2006 by lauren di scipio 34 AMGA SKI PROGRAM Prerequisites for Ski Mountaineering Guide Course: You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA. You have successfully completed the Ski Guide Course. Provide documentation of course completion on program application. Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Ski Guide Course evaluation. Provide an updated ski mountaineering resume showing each of the following: Since completing the Ski Guide Course you have mock guided/guided at least 10 days in ski mountaineering terrain. Documentation must include date, specific location, total elevation gain and loss, total horizontal mileage, maximum slope angle, and number of mock clients/clients. You have led or shared lead on at least 10 different alpine routes rated 3rd or 4th class including at least 2 with mid 5th class rock, snow & ice. You have skied 10 descents, 5 of which should be in complex glaciated terrain. You are able to ascend and descend on skis an average of 6000 vertical feet per day with little problem. Provide a copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT. You have completed an AMGA approved Level III avalanche course. A mock guided day occurs when a candidate acts as a guide to a non-paying cohort. Mock guided days should be performed in the same manner as a paid day of professional guiding where the non-paying cohort acts as the client. If a candidate steps out of role as the guide, or has to ask the client to step out of role, that day should not be documented as a mock guide day. Candidates are expected to clearly document all mock guided days on their resumes.

Skills taught and developed during the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course: Glacier travel for guiding Crevasse rescue Downhill guiding in complex glaciated terrain Advanced solutions for belay station transitions Track setting and uphill guiding in complex glaciated terrain Advanced short roping, short pitching techniques and considerations in complex glaciated terrain Managing technical descents Risk assessment for clients Guide safety and security Managing on-sight guiding techniques Client care skill Practice guiding at IFMGA standard Application of techniques Lesson planning Pedagogy Coaching tips and effective communication Skills assessed during the Ski Mountaineering Aspirant Exam Movement skills Avalanche transceiver search Rescue sled lowering and raising Bivouac construction SKI MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE CERTIFICATION EXAM The goals of the 8-day Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification Exam are to assess ski guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of the exam candidates.

During the exam candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. Candidates will serve as guides to the examiners and to the other candidates on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. Candidates acting as a guide will be responsible for route planning, client orientation, camp craft, risk management and normal guiding practices. Route or tour assignments and client profiles will usually be given the night before. Candidates will be responsible for obtaining information regarding the assigned route and alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.

The first 7 days of the exam are conducted on routes chosen by the examiners. Ski mountaineering terrain includes glaciated AMGA SKI PROGRAM

Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification Exam Continued alpine environments where guides may need to employ extensive short roping techniques, use of the ice axe and crampons, as well as travel on heavily crevassed glaciers. Multi-pitch ice or rock climbing is generally not included in the defined terrain except when necessary to achieve a ski or snowboard based objective. The final day of the exam will include personal debrief and exam evaluation.

In order to receive AMGA certification as a Ski Mountaineering Guide you must 1st successfully complete the 12-day Ski Guide Course 2nd successfully complete and pass the 10-day Ski Mountaineering Guide Course and Aspirant Exam. 3rd Pass the 8-day Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification Exam

Prerequisites for Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification Exam You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA. You have successfully completed the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course, which requires that you have passed the Aspirant Exam. Provide documentation of course completion on program application. Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Ski Guide Course evaluation. Provide an updated ski mountaineering resume, detailed with date, specific location, total elevation gain and loss, total horizontal mileage, maximum slope angle, and number of mock clients/clients, showing each of the following: Since completing the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course you have mock guided/guided 10 days in ski mountaineering terrain, at 5 of which must be on complex, glaciated terrain Since completing the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course you have skied 10 personal ski descents 5 of which must be on complex, glaciated terrain 5 of which must be 45 or steeper You have a current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT. You have completed an AMGA approved Level III avalanche course.

An AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide should be able to Demonstrate expert skiing skills and can comfortably ski black and double-black diamond terrain at a level well beyond the average recreational skier. Ascend and descend on skis an average of 6000 vertical feet per day with little problem. Move efficiently and quickly with 2 clients over 4th and 5th class terrain using appropriate short-roping or belaying techniques. Efficiently ski any type of snow up to 50∞ in steepness with an appropriate-weight pack in complex glaciated terrain. Adapt to all snow conditions and demonstrate a repertoire of techniques required for a variety of situations and client profiles. Teach techniques related to skiing in the backcountry and traveling in complex glaciated terrain. Demonstrate knowledge of and experience in at least one other medium (i.e. cross country telemark, splitboard). Demonstrate a good knowledge of industry standards for equipment. Organize and perform a rescue and evacuation in rock, crevasse and sled scenarios. Demonstrate guiding skills, uphill and downhill techniques, risk management, decision making, client care, navigation, winter over- night camping, environmental consciousness, and technical systems. Demonstrate a good understanding of avalanche terrain and how to avoid potential hazards. Use the right technique at the right time. Show a complete understanding and practice of Leave No Trace techniques

The AMGA recommends shadow guiding or working under supervision of an IFMGA Certified Guide or an AMGA certified Ski Mountaineering Guide.

Please submit electronically required documentation and updated personal ski mountaineering resume to the AMGA Program Director [email protected]. 36 AMGA ICE CLIMBING PROGRAM

5 Day Ice Instructor Training Workshop

New England, February 5 – 9, 2007

This 5 day Ice Instructor Endorsement will build and expand guiding skills learned in the Rock Instructor or Alpine Guide Courses while mock guiding single and multi pitch waterfall ice routes. Course instructors will work individually with each participant to refine their ability to assess a guiding situation to determine the proper technique and its execution. During various ice climbs the instructors will coach and model to convey these skills. Morning sessions will be reserved to instruct specific clinics with the afternoon session to practice these topics while mock guiding. Venues for this workshop will offer Grade 3, 4, 5, routes between two and three pitches in length.

Additionally, course instructors will teach lessons in these skill areas:

Risk management Client orientation Ice & Crampon skills with classic terms Terrain assessment Ice screw placements Belay techniques Multi client guiding Technical descents Short rope/pitching on snow & ice Hazard recognition Guide security and safety

Cost $1,000 per participant Ratio 3:1

Locations: New England Areas to include Crawford Notch and Franconia Notch NH.

Prerequisites Completion of the Rock Instructor or Alpine Guides Course

Four years ice climbing experience, with ice climbing resume to include 20 waterfall ice climbs which 10 or more are WI4 or harder. gary ryan in rocky mountain national park, colorado © gary ryan 37 IFMGA GUIDE FLOWCHIFMGAART MOUNTAIN GUIDE

On November 22, 1997, the AMGA became a member of the IFMGA (aka UIAGM), the International FederationIFMGA of Mountain Mountain Guides Associations. Guide Flowchart

Full CertificationOn November is necessary 22, to 1997,legally guide the AMGAin other IFMGA-memberbecame a member countries. of the IFMGA (aka UIAGM), the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations. Possession of each of these three certifications is necessary to become an IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide. Examinations may be taken in any order, (the order listed here is arbitrary). • Full Certifi cation is necessary to legally guide in other IFMGA-member countries. • Possession of each of these three certifi cations is necessary to become an IFMGA Certifi ed Mountain Guide. • Examinations may be taken in any order, (the order listed here is arbitrary).

Ski AlpineMountaineering Guide GuideCertification Certiﬁ cation

AlpineRock GuideGuide CertiﬁCertification cation

IFMGA Mountain Guide Certiﬁ cation Ski RockMountaineering Guide CertiﬁCertification cation

42 AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG

38 special operation forces mountain warfare training photo: markus beck, uiagm 39 AMGA FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

How important is certification? Land managers are becoming increasingly concerned about climbing’s impact on resources. As a result, they are looking to the AMGA for help in managing commercial climbing. Joshua Tree National Park has the highest number of climber user-days of any national park and AMGA Certification is helping managers determine the most qualified applicants for special use permits. Joshua Tree officials, among other stipulations, require either AMGA Certification or Accreditation (from either the AMGA or the Association of Experiential Education) to apply for a guiding permit.

The AMGA is the sole United States member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA). The IFMGA sets the standards for guide training and certification for professional mountain guides in the entire world. In IFMGA member countries such as Canada, France, Switzerland and Peru, IFMGA guide status is required of individuals wishing to work in those countries. Certification in all 3 AMGA disciplines allows individuals to pursue international work status (See IFMGA Flowchart on page XXX).

What will I get out of certification? First and foremost you will become a better guide. The AMGA education and certification program provides a unique opportunity for guides to clearly understand the current technical standards within the industry and improve upon their guiding skills. AMGA certification exams bring together a highly skilled group of individuals and puts their skills to test. The value of this peer review, and the opportunity to see how other experienced guides handle challenging situations, guarantees that an exam participant will come away with greater skills and confidence. In addition to the educational value and recognition within the guiding community, AMGA certification will provide invaluable opportunities to work as a professional mountain guide. As land managers and the public become more aware of certification and the quality certification represents, it will become easier for AMGA Certified Guides to gain clients and access to terrain.

Can anyone get into AMGA Programs? Our goal is to have room for each applicant that meets the prerequisites. However, sometimes this is not possible especially if there is a high demand for a particular program. Therefore, all applications received in a timely manner by the AMGA office will be reviewed and if space is available enrolled in that course or exam. For more information on the application process please see page XXX.

The AMGA reserves the right to exclude someone from a course or exam. We also reserve the right to ask a participant to leave a course or exam if they are endangering the safety of the instructors, examiners, or participants, or if they have falsified information on their application. If you are asked to leave an AMGA course or exam, no refunds will be given.

Why do I have to provide a personal climbing resume? Just as it is important for a guide to know a client’s background, the same applies to AMGA course instructors. With the detailed understanding of your background, the instructors can focus on areas that will help you the most. Because students are put in real leadership positions instructors must be sure of the technical ability of the students in order to manage risk.

How much information needs to be in my resume? Your personal climbing resume and guiding resume are critical parts of your application. They should reflect complete fulfillment of the prerequisites for the course or exam you applying for. Resumes should show the diversity of your experience, both in medium and location. The resume forms located in the back of this catalog detail what structure this information should take. All resumes must be submitted electronically to the Program Director, Betsy Novak ([email protected]).

Why do the courses seem so expensive? The AMGA is a non-profit organization. We do not price our courses or exams for profit. A large portion of the course expense is used for the instructor’s travel costs, food, lodging, and wages. Program ratios are generally low to offer the personalized instruction requested by our members. Most of the work to develop and support the AMGA educational programs is done by dedicated and hard- working guides who volunteer their time to help minimize costs.

What if I don’t have all the money required for course tuition right now? Deposits of %25 of the total tuition cost are required for application review and to hold your place in a program. This deposit is to be submitted with your application. Full payment is required for all programs 6 weeks before the start date of the program. This payment can be made with a check, money order or credit card, At 6 weeks prior to a course your deposit and space on a course will be forfeited if full payment is not received. 40 AMGA FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Can I get my money back? If the AMGA cancels a program at any time, a full refund will be given. If participant cancels enrollment in course up until 6 weeks prior to the start of the course a refund of total payment at that time minus the $100.00 non-refundable application fee will be refunded. If a participant cancels less than 6 weeks before the start date the course, NO REFUND will be given, this includes injuries so be careful! Trip cancellation insurance is recommended to recover fees lost due to injury or other factors.

How do I find out about course logistics? The pre-course meeting time, location and general itinerary will be included with your pre-course program information packet. You will receive this packet 6 weeks prior to the start of the course or exam you are enrolled in. Participants are responsible for any camping, lodging, meals and or transportation costs incurred getting to or during the course.

The program dates/locations don’t work with my schedule. What other options are there? Occasionally it is possible to add additional courses or exams as needed. Contact the Program Director to inquire about scheduling changes.

Are scholarships available to course participants? The AMGA initiated three permanent endowment funds to help support program participants financially.

The Julie Cheney Culberson Education Fund was created in memory of an outstanding professional guide. It exists to help support and promote the education of women guides or aspiring women guides. This fund provides partial tuition reimbursements to female AMGA members for courses and seminars. Approximately four $250 scholarships are awarded annually from this source.

In 1996 we established the AMGA Scott Fischer Education Fund. It provides scholarships to male and female individuals wishing to take courses in our alpine program. Scott Fischer embodied the spirit of guiding and loved high altitude mountaineering. In his honor this fund has been established help support climbers who have chosen guiding as a profession.

The Mike Hattrup/XO Net Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam Scholarship Fund was established in 2001. Mike Hattrup is an AMGA certified Ski Mountaineering Guide and long time extreme skier. This scholarship was formed by Mike Hattrup and XO/Net to advance the profession of ski guiding in America. One qualified individual a year will receive $500 toward the AMGA Ski Mountaineering Exam.

Jim Ratz was an inspiration to many guides across the country. Jim was a past Vice President of the AMGA and Executive Director of NOLS. In his honor the Jim Ratz Memorial IFMGA Grant has been established to help support guides who are finishing IFMGA certification.

Black Diamond, Patagonia, W.L Gore, Marmot, Petzl, Mountain Hardware, The North Face, Arc’teryx, Casio, Backcountry Access, Walker Family Foundation and Mammut have established additional scholarships. Please visit our website for more information regarding all scholarships offered for

the 2007 program year. jef jackson above golden, co . by lauren di scipio 41 AMGA MEMBERSHIP FORM

Name ______Date of Birth ______Gender ______

Guide service I work for ______

Address ______

City ______State ______Zip ______

Work Phone ______Home Phone ______Fax ______

Email ______

I began guiding professionally in the year ______(not required for Student and Associate members I guide professionally about ______days per year (not required for Student and Associate members)

Check the type of membership you are applying for.

*Individual Member Associate Member **Student Assoc. Member $115 check or money order $60 check or money order $40 check or money order

*For individual membership you must include with application • Resume of guided climbs, minimum 40 paid days in the last two years • Resume of personal climbs, minimum 20 climbs • At least two letters of reference (from an employer, fellow guide or client) **Include proof of enrollment with Student Associate Member

Please mail memebership application, payment + resumes (if applying for individual membership) to: Membership, P.O. Box 1739, Boulder, CO 80306.

Yes, I’d like to make an additional, tax-deductible contribution to further support the AMGA.

I have enclosed $______

If you wish to pay by credit card please fill out the following: Circle Card Type (Visa and MC only):

Credit Card Number Expiration Date:

Name on card: ______

I agree to support high standards of safety and professionalism in mountain guiding and instruction. I understand that the AMGA does not condone guiding without appropriate authorization and that the AMGA does not endorse any illegal guiding, whether in the US. or another country. I also understand that I, or any AMGA member may be subject to the loss of membership, accreditation or certification if such practices occur.

Signature ______Date ______

42 cw from top: marcus beck leads wholesome fulback, black velvet canyon, red rock, nv . . black velvet canyon, red rock, nv . marcus beck & joe thompson sort gear for resolution arete . by lauren di scipio 43 AMGA COURSE APPLICATION Please fill out course information as it applies to the course you are applying for. Refer to the course catalog for list of prerequisites per course

Course Information: Course Type (circle one) R1 RGC AGC AAGC SGC SMGC

Course ID# (i.e. R1):______Course Date:______Course Location:______

2nd Choice Course Type (circle one) R1 RGC AGC AAGC SGC SMGC

Course ID# (i.e. R1):______Course Date:______Course Location:______

Tuition Enclosed: $ ______(25% of tuition is required with course application, the balance is due six weeks before the start of course)

Personal Contact Information: Name______Address______AMGA Membership: City______State______Zip______You must be a current member to enroll in any Home Phone______course. Please refer to course prerequisites for membership level requirements. Cell Phone______Work Phone______Are you a current AMGA member? Fax______(If no please include a separate membership application and check) Email Address (required)______(Please circle one) Yes No Date of birth (mm,dd,yy)______Would you like a free T-shirt with course? Gender______Emergency Contact Information: (Please circle one) Yes No

Name______What Size? S M L XL Address______City______State______Zip______General overview of experience level:

Home Phone______Cell Phone______Work Phone______Fax______Email Address (required)______Relation______If you wish to pay by credit card please fill out the following: ______Name on card:______

Credit Card Number & Expiration Date:

Card Type: Visa or MC (only) 44 AMGA COURSE APPLICATION References: First person familiar with your climbing/guiding experience:

Name: ______Phone: ______

Second person familiar with your climbing/guiding experience:

Name: ______Phone: ______

Overview of experience: fill in the blanks appropriate to you & the course you are applying:

1. In what year did you start personally: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______Ski Touring?______

2. How many days per year do you guide: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______SkiTouring?______

3. What year did you start professionally guiding: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______Ski Touring? _____

4. If you have you taken an AMGA course before, what course was it, when, who was the instructor(s)?

______

5. How many days have you guided since taking the course? ______

Course Application Check List:

Please enclose all listed materials with this completed application (only complete applications will be accepted) [ ] Membership application (if you are not a member) [ ] AMGA Liability Release Form [ ] Course deposit in US Funds in the form of check, money order, or credit card (Visa or MC) number (see price info on the AMGA website) [ ] Copy of your medical certification documentation (if required in course prerequisites) [ ] Copy of Avalanche Training Certification (if required in course prerequisites)

Please email the following to [email protected] [ ] Personal climbs resume [ ] Guided climbs resume (if required in course prerequisites, refer to course catalog)

Acknowledgment: 1. I have read and understand and have signed the AMGA Liability Release. 2. I understand that at anytime the AMGA has the right to refuse my participation in the course due to any of the following: a) violation of the payment policy; b) false information on this application or my climbing resume; c) inadequate equipment or experience. 3. I have read and understand the AMGA policies (listed in the AMGA course catalog) and understand that I will forfeit the full course cost if I cancel with less than 6 weeks notice or if cancellation is not in writing, regardless of cause (this especially includes injuries!). Full refund is available up to 6 weeks prior to the course start date.

Signature of Applicant: ______Date______

Send complete applications to: Email: [email protected] Or mail to : AMGA Courses PO Box 1739 Boulder, CO. 80306 45 AMGA EXAM APPLICATION PAGE 1 Please fill out course information as it applies to the course you are applying for. Refer to the course catalog for list of prerequisites per course

Exam Information:

Exam Type (circle one) RIE RGE AGE SMGE

Exam ID# (i.e. RGE):______Exam Date:______Exam Location:______

2nd Exam Type (circle one) RIE RGE AGE SMGE

Exam ID# (i.e. AGE):______Exam Date:______Exam Location:______

Tuition Enclosed: $ ______(25% of tuition is required with course application, the balance is due six weeks before the start of course)

Personal Contact Information: Name______Address______AMGA Membership: City______State______Zip______You must be a current member to enroll in any Home Phone______course. Please refer to course prerequisites for membership level requirements. Cell Phone______Work Phone______Are you a current AMGA member? Fax______(If no please include a separate membership application and check) Email Address (required)______(Please circle one) Yes No Date of birth (mm,dd,yy)______Gender______Would you like a free T-shirt with course?

Emergency Contact Information: (Please circle one) Yes No

Name______What Size? S M L XL Address______City______State______Zip______General overview of experience level: Home Phone______Cell Phone______Work Phone______Fax______Email Address (required)______Relation______

If you wish to pay by credit card please fill out the following: ______Name on card:______

Credit Card Number & Expiration Date:

Card Type: Visa or MC (only) 46 AMGA EXAM APPLICATION PAGE 2 References: First person familiar with your climbing/guiding experience:

Name: ______Phone: ______

Second person familiar with your climbing/guiding experience:

Name: ______Phone: ______

Overview of experience: fill in the blanks appropriate to you & the course you are applying:

1. In what year did you start personally: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______Ski Touring?______

2. How many days per year do you guide: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______SkiTouring?______

3. What year did you start professionally guiding: Rock Climbing? ______Alpine Climbing? ______Ski Touring? _____

4. If you have you taken an AMGA course before, what course was it, when, who was the instructor(s)?

______

5. How many days have you guided since taking the course? ______

Exam Application Check List:

Please email the following to [email protected] [ ] Personal climbs resume [ ] Guided climbs resume (if required in course prerequisites, refer to course catalog)

Acknowledgment: 1. I have read and understand and have signed the AMGA Liability Release. 2. I understand that at anytime the AMGA has the right to refuse my participation in the course due to any of the ollowing: a) violation of the payment policy; b) false information on this application or my climbing resume; c) inadequate equipment or experience. 3. I have read and understand the AMGA policies (listed in the AMGA course catalog) and understand that I will forfeit the full course cost if I cancel with less than 6 weeks notice or if cancellation is not in writing, regardless of cause this especially includes injuries!). Full refund is available up to 6 weeks prior to the course start date.

Signature of Applicant: ______Date______

Send complete exam applications to: Email: [email protected] Or mail to : AMGA Courses PO Box 1739 Boulder, CO. 80306 47 AMGA LIABILITY WAIVER IMPORTANT: THIS IS A LEGAL DOCUMENT

Please read and understand this document before signing. If you have any questions please ask us or consult an attorney

The American Mountain Guides Association, its agents, employees, members, Board of Directors, instructors and volunteers, (hereinafter AMGA) have done everything possible to assure that our guests experience a rewarding experience. We wish to inform our guests that rock climbing is not risk free. The same elements that contribute to the unique character and fun of rock climbing such as the physical exertion or the height can cause loss or damage to equipment, injury, illness, or in extreme cases, permanent trauma or death. We do not want to heighten or reduce your enthusiasm for the experience, but we do want you to know in advance what to expect, and to be informed of the some of the possible risks. We ask that you read this, sign it, and return it to our office.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF RISK Rock climbing and using indoor climbing walls like all recreation activities is hazardous. The obvious accidents that occur in climbing are falling while climbing. Whenever you fall you may fall only a few feet or all the way to the ground. As you fall you may hit objects or the wall that are in your path. If the rope catches your fall the jolt from the rope may cause injury. Falling to the ground may cause serious injury from any height.

In addition to the hazards of falling, objects falling off the wall may hit you. Holds, climbing equipment and even people may fall and hit you as you are standing at the base or while climbing. Equipment may fail. Climbing equipment is tested before use, however the extreme conditions of the environment in which climbing equipment is used in conjunction with the damages caused by the wall can cause climbing equipment to fail. Improper use of the equipment or not property tying in will result in injury. The climbing hold may spin or break. As you climb you may pull out protection from the wall or it may become unclipped.

You will experience cuts from holding on to the holds or wall. You may also experience rope burns from handling the rope.

It is also possible that some participants would suffer mental anguish or trauma from the experience or their injuries.

This list is not an exclusive or exhaustive list of possible injuries, trauma or accidents that may occur while climbing. Most of these injuries are rare and you are not likely to encounter them, however they have occurred and you need to know about them and other possible injuries not mentioned above. These injuries occur more often when the participants are using drugs or alcohol or not physically able to undertake the activity.

I certify that my family, including minor children and myself are fully capable of participating in a climbing program I state that I have read the above statement on some of the possible risks in this activity. Therefore, I assume full responsibility for myself, my family, including minor children, for bodily injury, death and loss of personal property and any expenses as a result of my negligence, negligence of my family, or the negligence of AMGA I also understand that AMGA reserves the right to refuse any person it judges to be incapable of meeting the rigors and requirements of participating in rock climbing. My family and I are in good physical condition and able to undertake this activity.

CONTRACT, WAIVER, RELEASE AND INDEMNIFICATION I agree to indemnify and hold harmless AMGA their agents and employees from all claims, damages, losses, injuries, and expenses arising out of or resulting from participation in these activities. I further agree to release, acquit and covenant not to sue AMGA, their agents and employees for all actions causes of action claims or damages, damages in law or remedies in equity of whatever kind, including the negligence of AMGA or my family, myself, or my heirs, against AMGA arising out of participation in this program. In short, I cannot sue AMGA and if I do, I cannot collect any money. I agree to the site of any lawsuit and the law governing any such lawsuit shall be Colorado and governed by Colorado law. The terms of this agreement shall continue and be in effect after the rock-climbing trip has ended. 48 AMGA LIABILITY WAIVER

As liquidated damages, I hereby agree that if AMGA is forced to defend any action, lawsuit or litigation by myself, my executors, or my heirs, on my family’s or my behalf, my heirs or executors and I agree to pay AMGA costs and attorney fees if they successfully defend such action, lawsuit or litigation. Should a court of competent jurisdiction declare any paragraph or part of this agreement unenforceable, the remaining parts or paragraphs shall remain in full force and effect.

I acknowledge that no guarantees have been made with respect to achieving objectives. I authorize and release to AMGA the use of my image in any photograph or video recording for any purpose of AMGA I have adequate health, disability, and life insurance for my family and myself.

I hereby give permission for transportation to any medical facility or hospital and I authorize for any qualified guide or medical personnel to render necessary emergency medical care for my family or myself. I, ______, of my own free will, for my family, my minor children, my heirs and executors and myself, have read, understand and acknowledge the risks and liability for myself, and my family this ______day of ______2006. A copy of this release can be used as if it was an original. [__] By checking this box, I indicate that my family and I have previous climbing experience. [__] No one in my family or I have any medical condition that would prevent our participation in this activity except: ______.

I have read and understood this agreement.

FIRST PARTICIPANT SIGNATURE______

PRINTED NAME______

SECOND PARTICIPANT SIGNATURE______

PRINTED NAME______

THIRD PARTICIPANT SIGNATURE______

PRINTED NAME______

ADDRESS______PHONE: [_____]______

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY PLEASE CONTACT:______

PHONE: ______

I CARRY MEDICAL INSURANCE? YES _____ NO _____ GROUP NUMBER: ______

NAME OF PROVIDER: ______

Copyright 2000, James H. Moss, (303)980-5353, 12340 W. Alameda Pkwy, Lakewood, Colorado, 80228 49 AMGA MOUNTAINEERING IMPORTANT: THIS IS A LEGAL DOCUMENT Please read and understand this document before signing. If you have any questions please ask us or consult an attorney. The American Mountain Guides Association, its agents, employees, members, Board of Directors, instructors and volunteers, (hereinafter AMGA) have done everything possible to assure that our guests experience a rewarding experience. We wish to inform our guests that exploring the MOUNTAINEERING is not risk free. The same elements that contribute to the unique character and fun of exploring the Mountains such as the physical exertion or the living outdoors can cause loss or damage to equipment, injury, illness, or in extreme cases, permanent trauma, or death. We do not want to heighten or reduce your enthusiasm for the experience, but we do want you to know in advance what to expect, and to be informed of the some of the possible risks. We ask that you read this, sign it, and return it to our office.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF RISK You will be living, camping, and traveling out of doors, where you are subject to numerous risks, environmental and otherwise. Activities vary from trip to trip and include hiking, backpacking, camping, rock climbing and mountaineering. Meals are prepared over stoves and sometimes-open fires, water often requires disinfecting before use. Camping hazards may include burns, cuts, titan diarrhea and flu-like illness, and falling timber.

Travel is by vehicle and on foot. Travel by foot is over rugged unpredictable trail and off-trail terrain, including boulder fields, downed timber, river crossings, high mountain passes, snow and ice, steep slopes, and slippery rocks. Attendant risks include collision, falling; drowning and others usually associated with such travel, as well as environmental risks.

Environmental risks include rapidly moving, deep or cold water, insects snakes, and predators, including large animals; falling and rolling rock: lightning, avalanches, flash floods, and unpredictable forces of nature, including weather that may change to extreme conditions without notice. Additional risks are frostbite, high altitude illness, sunburn, heatstroke, dehydration, and other mild or serious conditions.

Decisions are made by the instructors and participants in a wildness setting, based on a variety of perceptions and evaluations which by their nature are imprecise and subject to errors in judgment. Participants may have free and unsupervised time. Throughout the trip, participants are responsible for their own safety and for the safety of other members of their group.

Rock climbing like all outdoor recreation activities is hazardous. The obvious accidents that occur in rock climbing are falling while climbing. Whenever you fall you may fall only a few feet or all the way to the ground. As you fall you may hit objects or the rock the are in your path. If the rope breaks your fall, the jolt from the rope may cause injury. Falling to the ground may cause serious injury from any height. In addition to the hazards of falling, objects falling off the rock may hit you. Rocks, branches, climbing equipment and even people may fall and hit you as you are standing at the base or while climbing.

Equipment may fail. Climbing and Mountaineering equipment is tested before use, however the extreme conditions of the environment in which climbing equipment is used in conjunction with the damages caused by the rock can cause climbing equipment to fail. The rock may brake to which you are holding or to which you have placed protection causing you to fall or causing your protection to pull out from the rock. As you climb you may pull out protection from the rock. You will experience cuts from holding on to the rock. You may also experience rope burns from handling the rope.

You may experience Ice Climbing or moving across snowfields on your trip. Ice Climbing is a technical activity involving the use of ice axes and crampons. Ice axes must be used properly to be effective and to prevent injury to you or other people. Crampons have sharp points on the bottom and front of the boot. These points are dangerous to you and other people. Make sure you understand how to walk in crampons before doing so.

Ice Climbing involves cold, water and ice on the vertical. Moving vertical on ice requires some strength and skill. Ice is constantly falling and can cause injury if you are hit by it. Other objects that fall due to thawing or knocked down by the ice may also hit you.

Glacier travel is dangerous. Crossing crevasses or walking over snow bridges covering a crevasse can always lead to a fall. You will need to learn and understand crevasse rescue on this trip. Falling into a crevasse can cause injuries due to the fall or objects hitting you during and after your fall. You may also be injured while stopping in the bottom or wedging into the sides. Once in a crevasse you will be subject to cold and hypothermia.

Another aspect of glacier travel you need to be aware of is the dangerous from seracs, ice and snow. Many times while crossing glaciers or hiking in the mountains, you will be in an area where seracs or ice can fall injuring or killing you. Seracs are large blocks of ice you may need to walk near or around. Avalanches are also a constant threat in the mountains. An avalanche is a snow that has released from the mountain and is moving down the mountainside. If you are trapped in an avalanche you can be injured by the avalanche or trapped in the avalanche, which may kill you.

You will trek at altitudes, which you will not be accustomed. You will be hiking to at least ______feet (______meters) and possibly ______feet (______meters) above sea level. Altitude sickness is the term used to describe the effects on a human body at altitudes higher than the person is accustomed to. Altitude sickness is usually associated with nauseous, headaches and a loss of appetite. If this occurs, you need to contact your guides immediately.

I understand the Mountaineering which I am undertaking includes a high degree of risk I can become Hypothermic. Hypothermia is the name for a medical condition where the core body temperature drops to a point that the body is unable to maintain and heat itself. Hypothermia means you are becoming cold enough to die. Being wet and in the wind contributes to Hypothermia. Make sure you have adequate clothing to combat Hypothermia. Hypothermia can quickly result in death. 50 AMGA MOUNTAINEERING High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) occur when you are at altitudes and have not acclimated properly. HAPE and HACE can be fatal if not treated quickly. Treatment is quick decent to a lower altitude.

Medical care, as you understand it is not available outside the United States. You will be several hours travel by water, porter or other non- vehicular transportation from any medical facility. The medical facility you may be treated in will not have the same standards as hospitals or doctor’s offices in the United States. The medical personnel you will be treated by may not have the same training as medical personnel in the U.S. Decisions are made by the instructors and participants in a wildness setting, based on a variety of perceptions and evaluations which by their nature are imprecise and subject to errors in judgment. Participants may have free and unsupervised time. Throughout the program, participants are responsible for their own safety and for the safety of other members of their group. It is also possible that some participants would suffer mental anguish or trauma from the experience or their injuries.

This list is not an exclusive or exhaustive list of possible injuries, trauma, or accidents that may occur while exploring the MOUNTAINEERING. Most of these injuries are rare and you are not likely to encounter them, however they have occurred and you need to know about them, and other possible injuries not mentioned above. These injuries occur more often when the participants are using drugs or alcohol or not physically able to undertake the Mountaineering. I understand there are no guarantees in mountaineering at this level. These guarantees involve any promise of attaining a summit as well as any guaranty of my survival. High altitude mountaineering is an activity involving a high degree of risk. I understand and agree to assume those risks.

CONTRACT, WAIVER, RELEASE AND INDEMNIFICATION I certify that my family, including minor children and I are fully capable of participating in the MOUNTAINEERING program. I state that I have read the above statement on some of the possible risks in this Mountaineering. Therefore, I assume full responsibility for myself, my family, including minor children, for bodily injury, death and loss of personal property and any expenses as a result of my negligence, negligence of my family, or the negligence of AMGA. I also understand that AMGA reserves the right to refuse any person it judges to be incapable of meeting the rigors and requirements of participating in the MOUNTAINEERING. My family and I are in good physical condition and able to undertake this Mountaineering.

I agree to indemnify and hold harmless AMGA their agents and employees from all claims, damages, losses, injuries and expenses arising out of or resulting from my families or my participation in these activities. I further agree to release, acquit and covenant not to sue AMGA, their agents, and employees for all actions causes of action claims or damages, damages in law or remedies in equity of whatever kind, including the negligence of AMGA or my family, myself, or my heirs, against AMGA arising out of participation in this program. In short, I cannot sue AMGA and if I do, I cannot collect any money. I agree to the site of any lawsuit and the law governing any such lawsuit shall be STATE and governed by STATE law. The terms of this agreement shall continue and be in effect after the exploring the MOUNTAINEERING trip has ended.

As liquidated damages, I hereby agree that if AMGA is forced to defend any action, lawsuit or litigation by myself, my executors, or my heirs, on my family’s or my behalf, my heirs or executors and I agree to pay AMGA’S costs and attorney fees if they successfully defend such action, lawsuit or litigation. Should a court of competent jurisdiction declare any paragraph or part of this agreement unenforceable, the remaining parts or paragraphs shall remain in full force and effect. A copy of this release can be used as if it was an original.

I authorize and release to AMGA the use of my image in any photograph or video recording for any purpose of AMGA. I have adequate health, disability, and life insurance for my family and myself. I hereby give permission for transportation to any medical facility or hospital and I authorize for any qualified guide or medical personnel to render necessary emergency medical care for my family or myself.

I, ______, of my own free will, for my family, my minor children, my heirs and executors and myself, have read, understand and acknowledge the risks and liability for myself, and my family this ______day of ______2006.

[__] By checking this box, I indicate that my family and I have previous mountaineering experience. [__] No one in my family or I have any medical condition that would prevent our participation in this Mountaineering except

______. FIRST PARTICIPANT SIGNATURE PRINTED NAME

ADDRESS______Telephone: [_____]______

In case of Emergency please contact: Name: ______Telephone: [_____]______

I carry Medical Insurance? Yes _____ no _____ Group Number:

Name of provider: ______

I have Purchased Travel Insurance for this Trip Yes ___ No ___ Provider: ______Copyright 1999, James H. Moss, (303) 980-5353, 12340 W. Alameda Pkwy, Lakewood, Colorado, 80228 51 AMGA MOCK GUIDING/GUIDE RESUME FORMS FORMS Mock Guiding/Guide Rock Resume American Mountain Guides Guiding Rock Resume Name: To 5.10+ Examples: Rating on: Please indicate your comfortable leading ability tal number of climbs: 1 3 1 # of times climbed yes yes yes Completed Association 5.1 5.9 1 2001 2002 2002 . Climbed Grade III VI II Yr # of Pitches 4 2 6 *Please use this as a template and create your own resume form with the same information , CO Area Lightning Bolt Cracks RMNP Eldorado, CO Black Dagger Indian Creek, UT Route Name Hair City Rock in rock shoes Rock in rock shoes Size in Rock Shoes Indian Creek, UT Hair City Eldorado, CO Route Name RMNP Black Dagger Area Lightning Bolt Cracks , CO own resume form with the same information *Please use this as a template and create your 6 2 4 Yr . Climbed 2002 2002 2001 # of Pitches II VI III Grade Completed yes yes yes # of times climbed e 1 3 1 # of Cliients 2 2 1 1 tal number of climbs: Please indicate your comfortable leading ability on: Rating Examples: 5.10+ 5.9 5.1 To American Mountain Guides Association Personal Rock Resum Name: Personal Rock Resume

56 AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG WWW.AMGA.COM 57 52 AMGA PERSONAL ROCK RESUME FORMS FORMS Mock Guiding/Guide Rock Resume American Mountain Guides Guiding Rock Resume Name: To 5.10+ Examples: Rating on: Please indicate your comfortable leading ability tal number of climbs: 1 3 1 # of times climbed yes yes yes Completed Association 5.1 5.9 1 2001 2002 2002 . Climbed Grade III VI II Yr # of Pitches 4 2 6 *Please use this as a template and create your own resume form with the same information , CO Area Lightning Bolt Cracks RMNP Eldorado, CO Black Dagger Indian Creek, UT Route Name Hair City Size in Rock Shoes Rock in rock shoes Rock in rock shoes Indian Creek, UT Hair City Eldorado, CO Route Name RMNP Black Dagger Area Lightning Bolt Cracks , CO own resume form with the same information *Please use this as a template and create your 6 2 4 Yr . Climbed 2002 2002 2001 # of Pitches II VI III Grade Completed yes yes yes # of times climbed e 1 3 1 # of Cliients 2 2 1 1 tal number of climbs: Please indicate your comfortable leading ability on: Rating Examples: 5.10+ 5.9 5.1 To American Mountain Guides Association Personal Rock Resum Name: Personal Rock Resume

56 AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG WWW.AMGA.COM 57 53 AMGA MOCK GUIDING/GUIDING ALPINE RESUME FORMS FORMS Mock Guiding/Guiding American Mountain Guides Guiding Name: Rating Please indicate your comfortable leading ability on: To 5.8 50 degrees snow/AI 3 WI Examples: tal number of climbs: 5 Alpine Resume 1 1 3 ter Ice,WI grade # of times climbed Wa yes yes yes Alpine Resume Completed Association 2001 2002 2003 Grade Yr Climbed III III Rock in Mtn. Boots # of Pitches 1 8 7 il, CO Area Va Glaciated Route Mt. Dickson, NZ yes-Plateau Petit Grepon, RMNP *Please use this as a template and create your own resume form with the same information Rock in crampons Rock in rock shoes Size in Rock Shoes Standard The Fang Route Name South Face South Face Route Name The Fang Standard Rock in rock shoes Rock in crampons Petit Grepon, RMNP Size in Crampons Mt. Dickson, NZ Va Glaciated Route Area il, CO yes - Plateau Glacier own resume form with the same informatione. *Please use this as a template and create your 1 7 8 Yr Mtn. Boots Rock in # of Pitches Size in Mnt. Boots Climbed 2003 2002 2001 III III Grade Completed yes yes yes Wa # of times climbed Water, Ice WI ter Ice,WI grade Grade 3 1 1 Alpine Resume # of Clients Alpine Resume 2 2 1 5 tal number of climbs: Please indicate your comfortable leading ability on: Rating Examples: WI 50 degrees snow/AI 3 5.8 To American Mountain Guides Association Personal Name: Personal

58 AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG WWW.AMGA.COM 59 54 AMGA PERSONAL ALPINE RESUME FORMS FORMS Mock Guiding/Guiding American Mountain Guides Guiding Name: Rating Please indicate your comfortable leading ability on: To 5.8 50 degrees snow/AI 3 WI Examples: tal number of climbs: 5 Alpine Resume 1 1 3 Grade ter Ice,WI grade Water, Ice WI Ice Water, # of times climbed Wa yes yes yes Alpine Resume Completed Association Size in Mnt. Boots Mnt. in Size 2001 2002 2003 Grade Yr Climbed III III Rock in Mtn. Boots # of Pitches 1 8 7 il, CO Area Va Glaciated Route Mt. Dickson, NZ Size in Crampons in Size yes-Plateau Petit Grepon, RMNP *Please use this as a template and create your own resume form with the same information Rock in crampons Rock in rock shoes Standard The Fang Route Name South Face South Face Route Name The Fang Standard Size in Rock Shoes Rock in Size Rock in rock shoes Rock in crampons Petit Grepon, RMNP Mt. Dickson, NZ Va Glaciated Route Area il, CO yes - Plateau Glacier own resume form with the same informatione. *Please use this as a template and create your 1 7 8 Yr Mtn. Boots Rock in # of Pitches Climbed 2003 2002 2001 III III Grade Completed yes yes yes Wa # of times climbed ter Ice,WI grade 3 1 1 Alpine Resume # of Clients Alpine Resume 2 2 1 5 tal number of climbs: Please indicate your comfortable leading ability on: Rating Examples: WI 50 degrees snow/AI 3 5.8 To American Mountain Guides Association Personal Name: Personal

58 AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG WWW.AMGA.COM 59 55 AMGA MOCK GUIDING/GUIDING SKI RESUME FORMS FORMS Mock Guiding/Guiding Ski Resum American Mountain Guides Guiding Ski Resume Name: To 45 degrees 50 degrees 45 degrees Examples: Level of Difﬁ Please indicate your comfortable skiing ability: tal number of decents: 2 1 1

cultly # of times skied yes yes yes Completed Association . Skied 2003 2003 2002 Yr e Grade # of days , CO n 1 2 1 Area RMNP PSIA Glaciated La Grave, France La Grave, France yes yes level o *Please use this as a template and create your own resume form with the same information Dragon T Emphaphure Route Name La t ail Couloir Vo Vo ail Couloir t La Route Name Emphaphure Dragon T La Grave, France La Grave, France RMNP Area o own resume form with the same information *Please use this as a template and create your , CO level yes yes Glaciated PSIA 1 2 1 n Yr 2002 2003 2003 . Skied # of days Completed Grade yes yes yes # of times skied 1 1 2 # of Clients cultly

2 4 3 tal number of decents: Please indicate your comfortable skiing ability: Level of Difﬁ Examples: 45 degrees 50 degrees 45 degrees To American Mountain Guides Association Personal Ski Resume Name: Personal Ski Resume

AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG 61 56 60 WWW.AMGA.COM AMGA PERSONAL SKI RESUME FORMS FORMS Mock Guiding/Guiding Ski Resum American Mountain Guides Guiding Ski Resume Name: To 45 degrees 50 degrees 45 degrees Examples: Level of Difﬁ Please indicate your comfortable skiing ability: tal number of decents: 2 1 1 cultly # of times skied yes yes yes Completed Association . Skied 2003 2003 2002 Yr e Grade # of days , CO n 1 2 1 Area RMNP PSIA Glaciated La Grave, France La Grave, France yes yes level o *Please use this as a template and create your own resume form with the same information Dragon T Emphaphure Route Name La t ail Couloir Vo Vo ail Couloir t La Route Name Emphaphure Dragon T La Grave, France La Grave, France RMNP Area o own resume form with the same information *Please use this as a template and create your , CO level yes yes Glaciated PSIA 1 2 1 n Yr 2002 2003 2003 . Skied # of days Completed Grade yes yes yes # of times skied 1 1 2 # of Clients cultly

AMGA PROGRAM CATALOG 61 60 WWW.AMGA.COM 57 AMGA Program Schedule 2007 Ski Discipline: S1: SGC- Red Mountain Pass, CO 12/28-1/8 5:1 12 $2,200 S2; SGC- Aspen, CO 1/18-29 5:1 12 $2,200 S3: SMGC/AE- La Grave, France 2/18-27 4:1 10 $2,200 S4: SMGE -Marmot- La Grave, France 3/4-11 4:1 8 $1,600 S5: SGC- Cascades, WA 3/5-16 5:1 12 $2,200 S6: SMGC/AE- Cascades, WA 3/12-21 4:1 10 $2,200 S7: SMGE- Marmot-Cascades WA 3/5-12 4:1 8 $1,600 S8: SMGC/AE- Valdez, AK 5/1-10 4:1 10 $2,200 S9: SMGE- Marmot-Valdez, AK 5/1-8 4:1 8 $1,600

Rock Discipline: R1: RIC – Joshua Tree, CA 3/20-29 3:1 10 $2,000 R2: RIE – Joshua Tree, CA 3/31-4/5 2:1 6 $1,600 R3: RGE –Black Diamond- Red Rock, NV 4/9-14 2:1 6 $1,400 R4: RGC/AE – Red Rock, NV 4/16-25 3:1 10 $2,000 R5: RGC/AE –Eldorado Canyon, CO 4/30-5/9 3:1 10 $2,000 R6: RIC – N. Carolina 4/16-25 3:1 10 $2,000 R7: RIE – Boulder, CO 5/14-19 2:1 6 $1,600 R8: RIC – Boulder, CO 5/21-30 3:1 10 $2,000 R9: RGE- Black Diamond- Boulder, CO 6/4-9 2:1 6 $1,400 R10: RIE- N. Conway, NH 6/16-21 2:1 6 $1,600 R11: RIC- Shawngunks, NY 6/4-13 3:1 10 $2,000 R12: RIC– N. Conway, NH 9/5-14 3:1 10 $2,000 R13: RIE – Boulder, CO 9/3-8 2:1 6 $1,600 R14: RIE – N. Conway, NH 10/8-13 2:1 6 $1,600 R15: RGC/AE –Eldorado Canyon, CO 9/10-19 3:1 10 $2,000 R16: RGC/AE- Red Rock, NV 9/17-26 3:1 10 $2,000 R17: RGE – Black Diamond- Red Rock, NV 10/1-6 2:1 6 $1,400 R18: RGC/AE – Red Rock, NV 10/8-17 3:1 10 $2,000

Alpine discipline: A1: AGC – RMNP, CO 5/7-16 3:1 10 $2,000 A2: AGC – RMNP, CO 5/21-30 3:1 10 $2,000 A3: AGC- Cascades. WA 6/18-27 3:1 10 $2,000 A4: AAGC/AE – Cascades, WA 7/9-20 3:1 12 $2,200 A5: AAGC/AE – Bugs/Icefields, Canada 8/20-31 3:1 12 $2,200 A6: AGE – The North Face-Bugs/Icefields 8/20-29 2:1 10 $2,000 A7: AAGC/AE – Chamonix, France 9/17-28 3:1 12 $2,200 A8: AGE, section1–North Face Cascades, WA 9/20-29 2:1 10 $2,000 A8: AGE, section2–North Face Cascades, WA 9/20-29 2:1 10 $2,000 A9: AAGC/AE- Cascades, WA 9/20-10/1 3:1 12 $2,200

Ice Endorsement: Ice: ICE- New Hampshire 2/5-9 3:1 5 $1000

Please refer to new AMGA Program Flowchart for inquiries regarding program changes, prices, and structure. SGC = Ski Guide Course. We would like to thank our Diamond Partners SMGC/AE = Ski Mountaineering Guide Course & Aspirant Exam.

SMGE = Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam. RIC = Rock Instructor Course. Black Diamond RIE = Rock Instructor Exam. Casio Pathfinder RGC/AE = Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam. GORE-TEX & Windstopper, RGE = Rock Guide Exam. Mammut AGC = Alpine Guide Course. Marmot AAGC/AE = Advanced Alpine Guide Course & Aspirant Exam. AGE = Alpine Guide Exam. The North Face