North Central France Recipes
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LECTURE NOTES AND RECIPES - APRIL 12TH, 2014 NORTH-CENTRAL FRANCE map of france NORTHERN & CENTRAL EASTERN WESTERN SOUTHERN THE BASICS OF FRENCH CUISINE Knife Skills • SCS 1| Basic Knife Skills - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs1 • Knife Skills Video Index - http://www.stellaculinary.com/cks Stocks • SCS 2| Veal Stock - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs2 • SCS 3| Chicken, Fish & Vegetable Stock - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs3 • Sauces & Soups Video Index - http://www.stellaculinary.com/sns Blanching & Kitchen Prep • SCS 4| Blanching - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs4 • Kitchen Prep Video Index - http://www.stellaculinary.com/kp The Five French Mother Sauces • Mother Sauce Resource Page - http://www.stellaculinary.com/mother • SCS 9| Hollandaise - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs9 • SCS 10| Sauce Veloute - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs10 • SCS 11| Béchamel - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs11 • SCS 12| Sauce Tomat - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs12 • SCS 13| Brown Sauce and Demi-Glace - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs13 Basic Cooking Techniques • SCS 5| Basic Starches - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs5 • SCS 6| Sautéing, Searing & Pan Roasting - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs6 • SCS 7| Braising, Poaching and Roasting - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs7 • SCS 8| Frying, Confit and Fat Poaching - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs8 • Cooking Techniques Video Index - http://www.stellaculinary.com/ct Charcuterie • Charcuterie Video Index - http://www.stellaculinary.com/hcc Bread Baking • SCS 18| Four Pillars of Bread - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs18 • SCS 19| Twelve Steps of Bread Baking - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs19 • SCS 20| Bread Classifications - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs20 • SCS 21| Sourdough and Pre-Ferments - http://www.stellaculinary.com/scs21 DUO OF PRESERVED DUCK liver pate, orange, tarragon & frisee, confit de canard, lavash & preserved mustard seeds Duck Liver Pate with Frisee, Orange Supreme, and Pickled Red Onion When it comes to appetizers served with champagne, duck confit is perhaps one of the most classic French dishes one can make. It uses the duck’s organ meat or “giblets” (liver, gizzards and hearts), which is a constant theme in French cooking; not only is nothing wasted, but the best dishes are usually constructed using offal or extremity cuts. Yield: 1000g Duck Innards = 1 14” Triangular Terrine Mold • 1000g duck innards • 2000g water • 100g kosher salt • 60g sugar • cooking oil, as needed • 140g yellow onion, julienned • 140g shallot, julienned • 30g ginger, peeled and sliced • 60g butter, cubed • 500g cream • 2 eggs • 20g kosher salt • 2g sodium nitrite • 3g white pepper 1. Combine 2000g grams water, 100g kosher salt and 60g sugar and whisk until dissolved to create a brine. Cover duck innards with brine, and place in the refrigerator overnight (12-24 hours). The next day, strain innards and rinse thoroughly under cold running water and allow to drain. 2. Heat a large skillet over high, and once hot, cover the bottom with a thin film of cooking oil. Sauté together the onions, shallot ginger with the butter, until the ingredients are soft and aromatic. Do not brown. 3. Add heavy whipping cream and bring to a gentle simmer, reducing heat as necessary to maintain the simmer without the cream mixture boiling over. Simmer for 4 minutes. 4. Combine cream mixture in a blender, and blend on high for about 30 seconds, or until completely smooth. 5. Blend giblets in food processor for 30 seconds. Add in egg and cream mixture from blender. You may not need all of the cream mixture depending on the water content of the giblets. Your goal is a thin, pancake batter. 6. Pass giblet batter through a tamis, pushing it through using a plastic hand spatula. 7. In a separate container, mix together 20g salt, sodium nitrite an white pepper. Disperse mixture into pate batter and stir to combine. 8. Line terrine mold with plastic wrap, making sure you have some hanging over on all sides. Pour in pate batter, and fold in plastic wrap, starting with the two long edges first, and then folding in the two ends. Tent with tin foil, and place in a 4” hotel. 9. Place hotel in 375F/175C oven, filling the hotel pan with enough warm water so that it comes half way up the side of the terrine mold. 10.Cook for 1.5 hours. 11.Remove terrine mold from oven, place on a sheet tray, and remove tinfoil tent. 12.If the pate mixture hasn’t risen above the edges of the terrine, cut some strips of cardboard that fit perfectly inside the terrine, and place directly on the pate mixture, with a sheet tray or other flat object placed on top of the ‘spacers.’ 13.Place heavy weights on top of the terrine and press overnight. Step by Step Video: http://stellaculinary.com/podcasts/video/hcc-3-duck-pate Serving To serve as a canapé or amuse bouche, place a small amount of the pate inside a miniature fillo cup (a piping bag works nicely for this). Top with 1 orange supreme, a single strand pickled red onion, and a small piece of cleaned frisee. To serve as an appetizer, make a salad by combining cleaned frisee and pickled red onion, lightly dressing it with Stella’s Sherry-Shallot dressing, or a vinaigrette of your choice. Arrange the pate on a mound of this salad, garnish with orange segments, and serve with slices of toasted baguette or brioche. Sherry-Shallot Vinaigrette This vinaigrette is our all purpose house dressing used for simple salads, or to add flavor to a salad component, like the frisee salad served underneath our duck pate appetizer. This will yield about 20 servings of vinaigrette, but because of it’s acidity, it will easily last a few months in your fridge. • 1 medium shallot, sliced • 90g sherry vinegar • 200g champagne vinegar • 70g stone ground or dijon mustard • 120g honey • 40g salt • 21g sugar • 85g olive oil • 570g Canola oil 1. Start by adding all the ingredients, including the oil, to the blender. 2. Blend ingredients, starting the blender on its lowest speed, and gradually working it up to the fastest speed possible. As the vinaigrette starts to come together, an emulsion will form, illustrated by the vortex hole about the size of a quarter shown in the picture above. Once this vortex is formed and the vinaigrette appears to have a smooth consistency, simply turn of the blender. 3. Store the in a food safe squeeze bottle and refrigerate. It will hold in the refrigerator for at least 2 months. Duck Confit, Seeded Lavash, Pickled Mustard Seeds This is a classic amuse bouche at Stella, made up of three separate recipes. The mixture of rich, hammy confit, in concert with the crunchy seeded lavash and sweet- sour/punch of the pickled mustard seeds, creates a complex flavor in a deceivingly simple bite of food. Duck Confit - “Confit de Canard” This recipe is formulated using a percentage, which allows the cook to easily scale based on how many duck legs they will be preparing. If serving this duck confit as a canapé, plan on one duck leg for every 4 people. If serving as a plated entree, plan on 1 duck leg per person. For more information on how to scale recipes using a percentage, please watch our video lecture on the baker’s percentage: http://stellaculinary.com/podcasts/video/what-is-the-bakers- percentage-video Duck Confit Curing Salt Mix • 100% kosher salt • 0.2% sodium nitrite • 10% sugar (optional) • 0.5% black pepper • .25% orange zest • .25% fennel seed • .5% grains of paradise • .5% mustard seed • .25% clove • .25% coriander seed 1. Toast spices whole in a dry sauté pan until they become fragrant (do not burn). 2. Grind finely and combine with salt, sodium nitrite and sugar (optional). 3. Follow duck confit method below section. For The Duck Confit • 100% duck legs • 10% confit curing salt mix • 0.5% grains of paradise, toasted • 0.25% cloves • 1% garlic cloves, crushed • bay leaf and fresh thyme to taste 1. Line a sheet tray with a piece of parchment paper and lay down a thin layer of confit salt. 2. Place duck legs on top of salt, skin side up, and cover with the rest of the salt. Lay another piece of parchment on top, and weigh down with a sheet tray and weights (#10 cans, bricks, etc.) 3. Place in the fridge for 12-24 hours. 4. Rinse legs thoroughly under cold running water and pat dry. 5. Place in an appropriately sized, oven safe container, add in GOP, cloves, garlic, thyme and bay leaf, and cover with melted duck fat. 6. Cover container tightly with foil, and place in 200F oven for 6-8 hours, or until cooked through and tender. 7. Gently remove duck from duck fat, place in a new container, and strain duck fat on top, making sure the duck legs are completely covered. 8. Place in the fridge and allow to cure for at least one week, but as long as 6-12 months. For longer curing times, cover the fat cap with plastic wrap so it won’t absorb the aromas from other food in the fridge. 9. Duck confit video part one: http://www.stellaculinary.com/podcasts/video/hcc-1- duck-confit 10. Duck confit video part two: http://stellaculinary.com/hcc5 Seeded Lavash This simple lavash recipe yields a full-flavor cracker that pairs well with cheese plates, pates and rillettes. It's versatile in the sense that the seeds can be mixed and matched as desired, with my favorites being a mixture of sesame, poppy and sunflower seeds. Use this like you would any other cracker, but you can take pride in the fact that it's home made.