©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Provence & the Côte d’Azur

Alpes-de-Haute- p217 p276

The p258 #_ Côte d'Azur Monaco p46 p108 The Bouches-du-Rhône Camargue p152 p195 Var p123

Hugh McNaughtan, Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Provence CÔTE D’AZUR . . . . . 46 Sleeping...... 114 & the Côte d’Azur. . . . . 4 Nice...... 47 Eating...... 118 Provence & the Côte Arrière-Pays Niçois . . . . 62 Drinking & Nightlife. . . 119 d’Azur Map...... 6 Peillon...... 63 Entertainment...... 120 Provence & the Côte Shopping...... 121 d’Azur Top 15...... 6 Peille...... 63 Villefranche- Need to Know...... 16 sur-Mer...... 63 VAR...... 123 Accommodation. . . . . 18 St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. . . . 64 Toulon...... 126 First Time Provence Beaulieu-sur-Mer. . . . . 65 Sanary-sur-Mer . . . . .127 & the Côte d’Azur. . . . . 20 Èze ...... 66 Bandol...... 128 What’s New...... 22 Roquebrune- Cap de Carqueiranne. . . . 129 Cap-Martin ...... 67 If You Like ...... 23 Hyères ...... 129 Menton...... 68 Month by Month. . . . . 26 Îles d’Hyères...... 131 Gorbio...... 71 Itineraries ...... 28 Île de Porquerolles. . . . 131 L’Arrière-Pays ...... 71 Activities...... 31 Île de Port-Cros . . . . .134 St-Paul de Vence . . . . .72 Île du Levant...... 135 Eat & Drink Vence...... 73 Like a Local...... 35 La Londe-les-Maures. . . 135 Les Gorges du Loup. . . .74 Travel with Children. . . . 39 Corniche des Maures. . . 138 Tourrettes-sur-Loup. . . .75 Bormes-les-Mimosas . . 138 Regions at a Glance. . . . 42 Grasse ...... 76 Massif des Maures. . . . 139 Mougins...... 79 Collobrières...... 140 Antibes...... 80 Haut-Var...... 143 Biot...... 85 East of Draguignan . . . 143 Cannes...... 85 West of Draguignan. . . 146 Îles de Lérins...... 92 Entrecasteaux...... 148 Île Ste-Marguerite. . . . 93 Cotignac ...... 148 Île St-Honorat...... 93 Correns ...... 149 Corniche de l’Esterel. . . 93 Massif de la St-Raphaël...... 94 Ste-Baume...... 151 Fréjus...... 95

RIVER THOMPSON/LONELYPLANET© Presqu’île BOUCHES- de St-Tropez ...... 97 DU-RHÔNE . . . . . 152 St-Tropez...... 98 ...... 153 Grimaud...... 106 Around Marseille . . . . 178 Gassin ...... 106 Les . . . . . 178 Ramatuelle ...... 107 Cassis...... 179 Gigaro...... 107 Côte Bleue...... 181 Pays d’Aix...... 182 MONACO...... 108 Aix-en-Provence. . . . .182 Sights...... 109 Ventabren ...... 190 SOCCA P35 Activities...... 113 Salon-de-Provence. . . . 191 Festivals & Events . . . . 114 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Provence & the

VALERYBARETA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Côte d’Azur Today. . . 300 History...... 302 Painters in Provence ...... 310 Cinema & the Arts. . . . . 315 Provençal Living...... 319

VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER P63 Les Alpilles ...... 191 THE LUBERON . . . . 258 St-Rémy-de-Provence. . 191 Gordes...... 259 Les Baux-de-Provence. . 194 Roussillon ...... 265 SURVIVAL St-Saturnin-lès-Apt. . . 266 GUIDE THE CAMARGUE. . . 195 Apt ...... 267 Arles...... 202 Le Grand Luberon . . . .271 Directory A–Z...... 322 Camargue Le Petit Luberon. . . . .272 Transport...... 329 Countryside...... 208 ...... 274 Stes-Maries- ...... 275 Language...... 336 de-la-Mer...... 211 Aigues-Mortes ...... 216 Index...... 345 ALPES-DE-HAUTE- Map Legend...... 351 PROVENCE . . . . . 276 VAUCLUSE...... 217 Pays de Forcalquier. . . 277 ...... 224 Forcalquier ...... 277 SPECIAL Around Avignon . . . . . 235 Banon...... 282 FEATURES Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. . 235 Vallée de la The Three Corniches . . . 50 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. . 236 ...... 283 Monte Carlo Casino. . . 116 Orange...... 238 Gorges du Verdon. . . .. 284 Vieux Port Itinerary. . . 162 Vaison-la-Romaine. . . .241 Moustiers Ste-Marie. . .285 Lavender Guide . . . . . 176 Dentelles de Castellane...... 287 The Camargue Montmirail...... 243 Parc National du Road Trip...... 198 Mont Ventoux...... 246 Mercantour...... 290 Birdlife of the Bédoin...... 247 Digne-les-Bains . . . . .290 Camargue...... 212 Sault...... 250 Vallée de l’Ubaye. . . . 291 Roman Provence Road Trip...... 220 ...... 250 Vallée du Haut Verdon. . 293 Cycling in Vaucluse Pernes-les- Vallée du Haut-Var. . . .294 Fontaines...... 253 & the Luberon...... 262 Vallée de la Tinée. . . . 295 L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. . . 253 Hiking in Alpes-de- Vallée de la Vésubie. . . 295 Haute-Provence. . . . . 280 Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. . . 256 Vallée de la Roya . . . . 297 Pays de . . . 257 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 28

Itineraries

ITALY

Orange #•

É É

É #• Avignon É Luberon #• #• Moustiers

Nîmes Ste-Marie #•

É St-Paul É Monaco Go de Vence Nice #• #• rge #• #• Ver s du #• Èze don Grasse É É #• Haut-Var

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

2 WEEKS Essential Provence–Côte d’Azur

All the classics in one easy itinerary: along the coast, into the hills and back again, via gorges, villages, vineyards, Roman ruins and lavender fields. Fly to Nice. On day two, mooch around Vieux Nice and amble along the Promenade des Anglais. On day three, catch a bus to stunning Èze to feast on views; head to Monaco for lunch and enjoy the rest of the day in the principality. Catch a train back to Nice. On day four, pick up a rental car and drive to the medieval wonder of St-Paul de Vence and its art galleries. On day five, drive to Moustiers Ste-Marie along the scenic N85, stopping in Grasse on the way for an insight into the town’s perfume industry. Spend the following day in Gorges du Verdon. Explore the villages of the Luberon on days seven and eight, and on day nine head to Avignon. Enjoy the city for a day, and take a day trip to Orange or Nîmes on day 11. On days 12 and 13, head to the Haut-Var for hilltop villages and vineyards, before returning to Nice. 29 Pays de Forcalquier

Avignon#• #• É Gordes #• É Roussillon #• É É

Lacoste #• É #• St-Rémy de #• Ménerbes É Provence #• É TRIP YOUR PLAN Les Baux-de- #•#• Maussane- #• Lourmarin É

Provence #•

les-Alpilles #• É Luberon

Arles É É

#• É

É É É #• Gorges du Verdon #•

Camargue Aix-en- It É #•

Provence i nerar

Étang de Port de É Galbert Fos Golfe É i es de Fos

M E D I T E R RAN E A N

S E A #• Marseille É

Marseilles, Aix & Camargue É #• Les Calanques Avignon & the Luberon #f

1 Marseille, Aix & the 1 Avignon & the WEEK Camargue WEEK Luberon

Mix city with countryside, starting in bus- This trip captures the essence of Provence, tling Marseille and following with clifftop starting in bustling Avignon and ending in hiking, art appreciation, Roman history the mighty Gorges du Verdon, with stops and flamingo spotting. at some of the area’s dreamiest villages and most photogenic sights en route. Spend your first day exploring Mar- seille: the Vieux Port, the historic Le Spend day one in Avignon, exploring Panier quarter and the art scene. Go to the old town and the Palais des Papes. cours Julien for a night out. On day two, On day two, drive down to St-Rémy-de- take a boat trip to Les Calanques or visit Provence in Les Alpilles. Explore the Château d’If before heading up to Basi- town’s stupendous Roman site Glanum lique Notre Dame de la Garde for pano- and visit the asylum where Van Gogh spent ramic views of the city and the sea. Dine in the last – but most productive – year of his the picturesque Vallon des Auffes. On day short life. On day three, take a day trip to three, head to Aix-en-Provence to visit Les Baux-de-Provence: visit the ruined Cézanne’s studio, his family house and the castle and go olive-oil tasting around Bibemus quarries where he painted. Treat Maussane-les-Alpilles in the afternoon. yourself at one of Aix’s fine restaurants. On day four, drive to the Luberon and On day four, head to Arles and discover explore a trio of lovely villages: Bonnieux, the places that inspired Van Gogh. Book a Lacoste and Ménerbes. On day five, visit table at one of the city’s Michelin-starred es- Gordes and its Abbaye Notre-Dame de tablishments. On day five, immerse yourself Sénanque and the ochre-coloured village of in the town’s fine Roman heritage – the am- Roussillon. On day six, pack a picnic and phitheatre, theatre, baths and Musée Dépar- head to the gorges, forests and lavender temental Arles Antique. Take a day trip to fields around Lourmarin, Vaugines and Camargue on day six: hire bikes, and don’t Cucuron. On day seven, drive back to Avi- forget your binoculars for birdwatching. gnon or carry on to Pays de Forcalquier Head back to Marseille. This entire itinerary and the Gorges du Verdon for another can be done by public transport. three days.

30 É

•#Lac d'Allos ITALY Barles •#

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É

•# Digne-les-Bains É É •# Vallée des St-Martin- •# Merveilles

É Vésubie It É É Gorges du i nerar Verdon •# •#Castellane É É Villefranche-

sur-Mer Gorges du É •#

i es Loup É Menton É É

•# •#Vence •# #_Monaco •# É •#•# Èze •# St-Paul Nice Grasse •# de Vence St-Jean-Cap Ferrat Classic Riviera Scenic Haute-Provence •# É Mougins MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Scenic Haute- 10 10 Classic Riviera DAYS Provence DAYS

It’s time to tear yourself away from the This tour captures all the Côte d’Azur’s coast and explore the mighty, majestic unmissable sights. You can do the first Alps. Amazingly, just an hour’s drive north part by bus and train, but for the full Rivi- of Nice, you’ll find yourself surrounded era experience, a car is preferable – and a by mountain scenery – perfect for hiking, convertible would be better still. biking and wildlife spotting. Dedicate your first couple of days to the Start in Nice – enjoy a day of urban de- belle of the Côte d’Azur: Nice. Stroll in light in Vieux Nice before hitting the road Vieux Nice and browse the market stalls of on day two. Drive to St-Martin-Vésubie cours Saleya; visit Cimiez’ wonderful Musée and watch semi-wild wolves in the Alpha National Marc Chagall and Musée Matisse; wildlife reserve. On day three, organise and party till dawn in Vieux Nice’s bars. a guided hike to see the amazing ancient On day three, take a day trip along the rock art of the Vallée des Merveilles, Corniche Inférieure, stopping at Ville- then head west to explore the many hik- franche-sur-Mer and St-Jean-Cap- ing trails around Lac d’Allos on days four Ferrat. On day four, head to hilltop Èze and five. for sensational views of the Med; carry on On day six, drive to Digne-les-Bains, to Monaco for the rest of the day. Spend stopping in Barles along the way for fos- the following day in Menton. sil hunting in the Réserve Géologique de On day six, rent a car and head for Haute-Provence. Organise a lavender walk the hills: stop in St-Paul de Vence and on day seven, and on day eight drive down Vence, and spend day seven motoring to Castellane, and take a scenic tour around the beautiful Gorges du Loup. of the Gorges du Verdon. Explore the On day eight, visit Grasse and its muse- canyon in a different way on day nine: go ums and perfumeries; leave your last day rafting, canyoning or just trekking. On day for the pretty village of Mougins. Drive 10, drive back to Nice or carry on along the back to Nice on day 10, continue in Haute- Riviera. Provence or head west along the coast. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 343

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

WRITER THANKS Gregor Clark Merci beaucoup to the many French and Hugh McNaughtan Monégasque locals who shared their insights As always, I must thank Tasmin, Maise and Willa, about and Monaco with me, especially my endlessly patient family, plus my editor Dan, Marion Pansiot, Clara Diaz Campuzano, Lucie and the support team at Lonely Planet. I’d also Richard, Did Kwo, Claire Bouvrot, Bruno Rou- like to thank Audrey, Isabelle and the many kind ganne and Eric Demeester. Back home, hugs people in Provence who made this project a to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, who always make success and a pleasure. coming home the best part of the trip. Oliver Berry A big merci to everyone who helped me with my ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS research in Provence this time ’round, including Jérome Coustellet, Marie Lafarge, Sophie Cas- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, ticci, James Clarke, Agnès Caron and Aurelie Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Martin. Back home, thanks to Rosie Hillier for World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate putting up with long days and nights of write- Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System up, and to everyone in the Lonely Planet team Sciences, 11, 163344. putting the project together, especially destina- Cover photograph: Lavender at Abbaye Notre- tion editor Dan Fahey for fielding myriad ques- Dame de Sénanque, Jordan Banks/4Corners© tions about taxonomy, topography, Typefi and Illustrations p116-17, p162-3 by Javier Zarracina. plenty more besides. Un grand merci à tous! 344

This guidebook was produced Samantha Forge, Cath Lanigan, THIS BOOK by the following: Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin, This 9th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Daniel Gabrielle Stefanos, Sarah Planet’s Provence & the Côte Fahey Stewart, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Williamson d’Azur guidebook was curated Senior Product Editor Genna BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND by Hugh McNaughtan and re- Patterson Assisting Book Designer searched and written by Hugh Jessica Rose Product Editor Heather McNaughtan, Oliver Berry and Champion Cover Researcher Naomi Gregor Clark. The previous Mark Parker edition was written by Alexis Senior Cartographer Griffiths Thanks to Frank Gelok, Averbuck, Oliver Berry and Sandie Kestell, Claire Naylor, Book Designer Gwen Cotter Nicola Williams. Karyn Noble, Andre Pfanner, Assisting Editors Michelle Matt Phillips Bennett, Andrea Dobbin, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 345

Index

A tours 185 Chapelle Cocteau 97 Aups 147‑8 abbeys & monasteries travel to/from 189‑90 Collection Lambert 226‑7 Avignon 11, 224‑35, 224‑5, 11 see also churches & travel within 190 Espace de l’Art accommodation 227‑9 cathedrals Alpes‑de‑Haute‑Provence Concret 80 activities 225‑7 Abbaye de Thoronet 146 276‑98, 278 Espace Van Gogh 204 drinking 233 Abbaye et Jardins de accommodation 276 Fondation Luma 207 entertainment 233‑4 l’Abbaye 235 driving distances 276 Fondation Victor food 229‑33 Abbaye Notre‑Dame de Vasarely 183 food 276 history 225 Sénanque 176, 259 Fondation Vincent Van highlights 278‑9 planning 228 Chartreuse du Val de Gogh 202 hiking 280 shopping 234 Bénédiction 235 Musée Angladon 227 planning 276 sights 225‑7 Monastère de la Musée Calvet 226 Alpha 296 tourist information 234 Verne 140, 136 Musée Cantini 157 Ansouis 275 tours 227 Monastère de Saorge 297 Musée d’Art Classique de Antibes 80‑5, Monastère Notre Dame de 82 Mougins 79 travel to/from 234 Apt 267‑71 Ganagobie 283 Musée d’Art travel within 235 Monastère St-Paul de Arboretum Marcel Contemporain 161 Kroenlein 295 Mausole 192, 230 Musée d’Art Moderne et Prieuré de Salagon 277 architecture 305, 316‑17 B d’Art Contemporain 52, ballooning 34 accessible travel 322 Cabanon Le Corbusier 67 314, 314 Bandol 128‑9 accommodation 18‑19, 20, Chapelle du Rosaire 73 Musée du Bastion 68 Banon 282‑3 322, 336‑7, 19, see also La Cité Radieuse 157 Musée Goetz‑ Bargemon 145 individual locations La Croisette 85‑6 Boumeester 63 basilicas, see churches & activities 31‑4, see also Port Lympia 52 Musée Jean Cocteau cathedrals individual activities Promenade des Anglais 47 Collection Séverin Basilique Notre Dame de la adventure sports 22, 25, 33, Salle des Mariages 68 Wunderman 68 284‑5, 296, see also Garde 156 Villa E‑1027 67 Musée Matisse 52, 313 individual adventure bathrooms 327 Village des Musée National Marc sports beaches 24, 98, 102, 132, 13 Bories 259, Chagall 52 Aigues‑Mortes 216 269 Couleurs Jardin 102 Arc Romain 250 Musée National Picasso air travel 329 ‘La Guerre et la Paix’ 86 Juan‑les‑Pins 83 area codes 17, 327 airports 329 Musée Picasso 81 La Plage des Jumeaux 102 Arles 11, 202‑8, 203 Aix‑en‑Provence 12, 182‑90, Musée Réattu 202 La Vigneraie 1860 102 accommodation 205‑6 184, 12 Musée Volti 63 Le Club 55 102 activities 202‑5 accommodation 185‑6 Nouveau Musée National Le Refuge 102 drinking 207 activities 182‑5 de Monaco – Villa Moorea Plage 102 entertainment 207‑8 drinking 189 Paloma 113 Nikki Beach 102 food 206‑7 entertainment 189 Nouveau Musée National Pearl Beach 102 planning 211 de Monaco – Villa festivals & events 185 Plage d’Agay 94 shopping 208 Saube 113 food 186‑9 Plage d’Argent 132 sights 202‑5 Refuge d’Art 291 history 182 Plage de Galets 84 tourist information 208 Tanning‑Ernst planning 186 Plage de la Bocca 86 travel to/from 208 Collection 145 sights 182‑5 Plage de la Courtade 132 travel within 208 artists see painters tourist information 189 Plage de la Croisette 22 Arrière‑Pays Niçois 62‑3 arts 315-18, see also painters, individual artists Plage de Notre Dame 132 art 23, 310‑14 Atelier Cézanne 188, 310 Plage de Pampelonne 98 Map Pages 000 art galleries & art museums ATMs 325 Plage de Tahiti 98 Photo Pages 000 Carrières de Lumières 194 Plage des Catalans 160 346 beaches continued de Port‑Pin 179 Chapelle Notre Dame Cathédrale Notre‑Dame Plage des Pêcheurs 114 Calanque de Sormiou 178 de Beauvoir 286 de Nazareth (Vaison- la-Romaine) 241 Plage des Salins 98 Calanques, Les 13, 178‑9, 13 Chapelle Sainte‑ Roseline 143 Cathédrale Orthodoxe Plage du Langoustier 132 calisson d’Aix 190 chapels, see churches & Russe St‑Nicolas 52 Plage du Midi 86 Callas 144‑5 cathedrals Cathédrale Ste‑ Plage Vegaluna 86 Camargue, the 10, 195‑216, Réparate 47

INDEX INDEX Château de Simiane‑la‑ , , , Shellona 102 196‑7 198 10 201 Rotonde 283 Cathédrale accommodation 195 Z Plage 86 Château de Tarascon 210 St‑Sauveur 184 driving distances 195 Beaulieu‑sur‑Mer 65‑6 Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape Cathédrale - B  Beaumes‑de‑Venise 245‑6 food 195 (region) 236‑7, 230 St‑Siffrein 250 C Bédoin 247‑50 highlights 196‑7 Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape Chapelle Notre Dame de  belle époque 306 itineraries 198‑201 (wine) 237 Beauvoir 286 Biot 85 planning 195 châteaux Chapelle Sainte‑ Roseline 143 bicycle travel, see cycling Camp des Milles 191 Château d’Ansouis 275 Chapelle St‑Pierre 63 birdwatching 33, 130, Cannes 85‑92, 88 Château de la Croë 84 Cloître de la Cathédrale 212‑13, 285, 213 accommodation 87, Château de l’Empéri 191 de Fréjus 95‑6 blogs 300 89‑90 Château de Collégiale Notre Dame boating 135 activities 86‑7 Lourmarin 274 des Anges 254 Aigues-Mortes 216 drinking 91‑2 Château de Roque‑ Église de Venasque 257 Avignon 227 entertainment 92 brune 67 Église des Stes‑ festivals & events 87 Château de Simiane‑ Île de Porquerolles 132 Maries 214 food 90‑1 la‑Rotonde 283 Les Bateaux de Église Notre Dame de la Château de St‑Raphaël 95 shopping 92 Major 205 Tarascon 210 Les Calanques 178 sights 85‑6 Église St‑Florent 238 Château de Marseille 161 tourist information 92 Vauvenargues 312 Église St‑Jean de Nice 53 tours 86‑7 Malte 184 Château St‑Tropez 99 travel to/from 92 d’Entrecasteaux 148 Église St‑Trophime 202 Stes-Maries-De-La- Cannes Film Festival 25, 27, Château des Baux 194 Église St‑Véran 256 Mer 214 87, 315, 316 Château d’If 161 Sanctuaire Notre Dame Toulon 126 canoeing & kayaking 25, 33, des Fontaines 297 Château du Barroux 245 boat travel 331, 332 34, 133, 161, 178, 254 cinema 315‑16 Colline du Château 52 Bonnieux 272‑3 canyoning 22, 33, 298 cinemas 120, 173, 234, cheese 36, 201 books 318, 320 Cap Croisette 160 circuses 26 chestnuts 27 bories 316, 269 Cap d’Antibes 84 Citadelle de St‑Tropez 98 children, travel with 39‑41 Bormes‑les‑ Cap de Carqueiranne 129 Cité Médiévale (Vaison‑ Chorégies d’Orange 27, 238 Mimosas 138‑9 Carnaval de Nice 25, 26, 53 la‑Romaine) 241 churches & cathedrals see Bouches‑du‑Rhône 152‑94, Carpentras 250‑3, 251 climate 16, 26, 27, 34, also abbeys & mon‑ 154‑5 322, 326 Carrières de Lumières 194 asteries accommodation 152 climate change 301, 329 Carry‑le‑Rouet 181‑2 Abbaye Notre‑Dame de driving distances 152 car travel 17, 296, 326, 330, Sénanque 176, 259 climbing 291 food 152 332‑4, see also road Abbaye Ste‑Madeleine Cocteau, Jean 315 highlights 154‑5 trips 245 Col d’Allos 293 travel to/from 153 Casino de Monte Carlo 111, Abbaye St‑Victor 160 Colette 318 116-17, , travel within 153 15 116-17 Ancienne Cathédrale Colline du Château 52 bouillabaisse 36, 169 Cassis 179‑81 Ste‑Anne 267 Colline St‑Eutrope 238 boules, see pétanque Castellane 287‑90 Basilique Notre Dame de Collobrières 140‑1 budgeting 16, 17, 21, 323 Cathédrale de Marseille la Garde 156 Colmars‑les‑Alpes 293 Notre Dame de la Major bullfighting 26, 209 Basilique St‑Michel Colorado Provençal 157, 8‑9 271 Archange 68 266, 24 cathedrals, see churches & bus travel 330, 332 Basilique St‑Pierre 227 consulates 323 cathedrals business hours 325 Cathédrale de Marseille Corniche de l’Esterel 93‑4 Catholicism 216 Notre Dame de la Corniche des Maures Caumont Centre d’Art 183 Major 157 138‑40 caving 22 Cathédrale de C Corniche Inférieure 50 178 cell phones 16, 327 Monaco 113 Corniches, see Three Cathédrale Notre‑Dame Cézanne, Paul 188, 311, Corniches, the de la Nativité 73 310 Correns 149, 151 Chagall, Marc 52, 313 Cathédrale Notre‑Dame Map Pages 000 costs 16, 17, 21, 323 Chapelle du Rosaire 73 de Nazareth Photo Pages 000 (Orange) 239 Côte Bleue 181‑2 347 Côte d’Azur 46‑107, 48‑9 Festival d’Avignon 25, Fête de la Transhumance Roseraie Princesse accommodation 46 27, 227 25, 27, 181 Grace 113 driving distances 46 Festival de Cannes 25, 27, Fête des Gardians 25, gardians (Camargue food 46 87, 315, 316 27, 205 cowboys) 27, 32-3, 200, 205, 209, 215 highlights 48‑9 festivals & events 24‑5, Fête du Citron 25, 26, 70 26‑7, see also individual films 27, 300, 315‑16 Gare du Sud 22 travel to/from 47 locations

Gassin 106 INDEX travel within 47 flamingos 10, 212‑13, Cannes Film Festival 87, 10, 213 gay travellers 324 Cotignac 148‑9 315, 316 Fondation Vincent Van geology 291 courses 33, 34, 209, 324 Carnaval de Gogh 202 Gigaro 107 credit cards 325 Marseille 166 C - Fontaine‑de‑

Gigondas 243‑4 H culture 319‑20 Carnaval de Nice 53 Vaucluse 256‑7 Gorbio 71 currency 16 Chorégies d’Orange 238 food 23, 35‑8, 337-9 Gordes 259, 264-65, 268 customs regulations 322 Christmas 244 see also individual Gorges de Daluis 294 cycling 25, 32, 330, 331‑2, Féria d’Arles 209 locations Gorges de la Nesque 253 263 Festival d’Aix‑en‑ Forcalquier 277, 282‑3 Gorges du Verdon 284 Provence 185 Fôret des Cèdres 272 Gorges d’Oppedette 271 Mont Ventoux 247 Festival d’Art Formula One Grand Prix 114 Gorges du Toulourenc 252 Stes-Maries-de-la- Pyrotechnique 87 Forteresse de 242 Gorges du Verdon 12, Mer 214 Festival d’Avignon 227 fortresses 284‑90, 12, 288‑9 Vaucluse & the Luberon Festival de Cannes 87, Citadelle de St‑Tropez 98 315, 316 Grande Corniche 51 262-3, 263 Fort de Brégançon 139 Festival de Marseille 166 Grasse 76‑8, 78 cycling tours 141, 141 Fort de Buoux 271 Festival de Grimaldi family 305, 306 Fort de l’Estissac 134 Ramatuelle 107 Grimaud 106 Fort de Tournoux 292 D Festival de Vaison‑la‑ dangers, see safety Romaine 241 Fort St‑André 235 Dentelles de Montmirail Festival des Chœurs Fort Ste‑Agathe 132 H Haut‑Var 143‑51, 150 243‑7, 231, 248 Lauréats 241 Forteresse de health 323 Digne‑les‑Bains 290‑1 Festival Off 227 Mornas 242 hiking 25, 31-2, see also disabilities, travellers Fête de la La Citadelle (Ville‑ walking with 322 Transhumance 181 franche‑sur‑Mer) 63 Alpes‑de‑Haute‑ Distillerie Les Agnel 271 Fête des Gardians 205 Fréjus 95‑7, 96 Provence 280-1 diving 94 Fêtes d’Arles 205 Fôret des Maures Domaine de la Fêtes du Citron 70 140, 142 Palissade 212‑13 G Five Continents Jazz Gallo‑Roman Ruins Gorges du Verdon 284-5 Domaine du Festival 167 (Vaison‑la‑Romaine) Les Calanques 178 Rayol 138, 136 Foire aux Santons 167 241, 248 Massif des drinks 23, 338, see also Formula One Grand gardens l’apéro, wine, wineries Maures 139-40 Prix 114 Abbaye et Jardins de Mont Ventoux 246-7, 14 driving see car travel Grand Prix Historique de l’Abbaye 235 Sentier des Ocres 265 Monaco 114 Arboretum Marcel Sentier du Littoral 94 E International Fireworks Kroenlein 295 Festival 114 Sentier du Point electricity 323 Colline St‑Eutrope 238 Journée de la Truffe Sublime 294 embassies 323 Domaine du Rayol 138 Noire 148 Sentier Nietzsche 66 emergencies 17, 323, 339 Jardin Botanique de la Les Grimaldines 106 Villa Thuret 84 St‑Jean‑Cap‑Ferrat 65 Entrecasteaux 148 Les Oursinades 181 Jardin Botanique Vallée de la environmental issues Les Plages Exotique du Val Vésubie 295-6 301, 329 Électroniques 87 Rahmeh 70 Vallée de l’Ubaye 292 etiquette 21, 37 Les Rencontres d’Arles Jardin de la Serre de la Vallée du Haut events, see festivals & Photographie 205 Madone 70 Verdon 293 events Les Riches Heures Jardin Emanuel Lopez Vallée du Haut-Var 294 Euromediterannée 22 Musicales de la & Conservatoire hilltop villages 25 exchange rates 17 Rotonde 283 Botanique National historic sites Èze 66‑7, 15 Les Suds 205 Méditerranéen 132 Arc de Triomphe 238 Monaco ePrix 114 Jardin Exotique d’Èze 66 Caumont Centre Monaco Grand Prix 120 Jardin Exotique d’Art 183 F (Monaco) 111‑12 Féria d’Arles 209 Pèlerinage des Gitans 216 Cité Médiévale (Vaison‑ Jardins St‑Martin 113 la‑Romaine) 241 Féria du Riz 209 Quel Amour! 22 Les Jardins du MIP 79 La Ponche 98 ferries 331, 332 Rolex Monte‑Carlo Masters 114 Prieuré de Salagon 277 La Vieille Charité 156 348 historic sites continued kingfishers 213 travel to/from 259 sights 109‑13 Le Rocher 111 Klein, Yves 314 travel within 259 tourist information 121 Maison de travel to/from 122 Nostradamus 191 travel within 122 Mines de Bruoux 265 L M La Capelière 212‑13 maps 324‑5 walking tour 115, 115 Monastère St‑Paul de Monaco Grand Prix 27, 120 La Croisette 85-6 markets 9, 9, 201 INDEX INDEX Mausole 192 money 16, 17, 21, 322, 325 Vieil Aix 183 La Fontaine de Aix‑en‑Provence 187 Vaucluse 256 Apt 270 Monte Carlo Casino 111, Vieille Ville 130 116-17, , La Londe‑les‑Maures 135 Arles 206 15 116-17

H - M Villa Noailles 130 La Motte 144 Mont Ventoux 14, 246‑50, history 23, 302‑9 Forcalquier 176 La Ponche 98 14, 288‑9 holidays 325‑6 Luberon, the 264 La Vieille Charité 156 motorcycle travel 330, horse riding 32‑3, 296 Marseille 174 332‑4 Lac d’Allos 293, 280 hot‑air ballooning 34 Monaco 114, 118 Mougins 79‑80 Lac de Quinson 286 Hôtel de Sade 22 Nice 47, 62 mountain biking 32 Lac de Ste‑Croix 286 Hyères 129‑31 Tourtour 147 Moustiers Ste‑Marie 285‑7 Lacs de Vens 280, 281 Var villages 131 Moyenne Corniche 51, 51 landscapes 23‑4 Vaucluse 247 Musée d’Art Moderne et I language 336‑42 Marseille 9, 153‑75, 158‑9, d’Art Contemporain 52, ibexes 290, 289 courses 324 164‑5, 8‑9 314, 314 ice cream 119 eating 37‑8 accommodation 167‑8 Musée des Civilisations Île de Bendor 128 travel 331 activities 161 de l’Europe et de la Île de Porquerolles useful phrases 21 drinking 171‑2 Méditerranée 156 131‑3, 136 l’apéro 38 entertainment 172 Musée du Petit Palais 226 Île de Port‑Cros 134‑5 lavandin 255 festivals & events 166‑7 Musée Granet 183 Île du Levant 135‑8 lavender 176‑7, 225, 176-7 food 168‑71 Musée International de la Île St‑Honorat 93 245 gay travellers 172 Parfumerie 77 Île Ste‑Marguerite 93 Le Corbusier 317 highlights 156 Musée Jean Cocteau Îles de Lérins 92‑3 Collection Séverin Le Grand Luberon 271‑2 history 153 Îles d’Hyères 131‑5 Wunderman 68 Le Panier 153 markets 174 Îles du Frioul 161 Musée Masséna 52 Le Pen, Marine 300 planning 161 immigration 328, 329 Musée Matisse 52, 313 Le Petit Luberon 272‑4 shopping 173‑4 insurance 323‑4, 333 Musée National Picasso ‘La Le Petit Marais 61 sights 153, 156-61 Guerre et la Paix’ 86 internet access 324 Le Rocher 111 tourist information 174 Musée Océanographique internet resources 17, legal matters 324 tours 161 127, 300 de Monaco 111, 39 Les 30 Glorieuses 308 travel to/from 174‑5 Musée Picasso 81 itineraries 28‑30, 28, Les Alpilles 14, 191‑4 travel within 175 29, 30 Musée Promenade 290 Les Arcs‑sur‑Argens 143‑4 Massif de la Ste‑Baume 151 Camargue, the 198‑200, Musée Réattu 202 Massif des Maures 139-42 198, 201 Les Arènes (Arles) 202, 11 museums 309 Roman Provence 220‑3, Les Baux‑de‑Provence Matisse, Henri 52, 312 Atelier Cézanne 188, 310 220 194, 14 Mayle, Peter 318 Campredon Centre Three Corniches, the 50, Les Calanques 13, 178‑9, 13 measures 326 d’Art 254 50, 15, 51 Les Gorges du Loup 74‑5 medical services 323 Citadelle de St‑Tropez 98 Var wine tour 141, 141 Les Salins du Midi 216 medieval Provence 303‑4 Collection de Voitures lesbian travellers 324 Ménerbes 273‑4 Anciennes 113 LGBTIQ+ travellers 324 Menton 68‑71, 69 Collection Roux 63 J L’Isle‑sur‑la‑Sorgue 253‑6 Mistral, Frédéric 318 Ecomusée l’Olivier 277 jazz 27, 53, 167, 234, 318 literature 317‑18, 320 mobile phones 16, 327 Fragonard’s Usine Jeanneret, Historique & Musée du Lorgues 146‑7 Monaco 15, 108‑22, 109, Charles‑Édouard 317 Parfum 77 Lourmarin 274‑5 110‑11 Juan‑les‑Pins 83 Hôtel de Sade 192 Luberon, the 10, 258‑75, accommodation 108, Institut Océanographique 260-1, 10 114, 118 Paul Ricard 127 K accommodation 258 activities 113‑14 Maison de la Truffe 147 kayaking, see canoeing & cycling 262 drinking 119‑20 Maison du Costume kayaking driving distances 108 driving distances 258 Comtadin 253 entertainment 120‑1 food 258 Musée Archéologique 96 food 108, 118‑19 highlights 260‑1 Musée Archéologique de Map Pages 000 markets 264 highlights 109 St‑Raphaël 94 Photo Pages 000 planning 258 shopping 121 Musée d’Apt 267 349 Musée d’Archéologie N Palais Princier de reserves see national parks Méditerranéenne 156 Napoléon Bonaparte 305 Monaco 112 & reserves Musée d’Art et national parks paragliding 75 road rules 333 d’Histoire 238 & reserves Parc National des road trips Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Alpha 296 Calanques 178-9 Camargue, the 198-200, de Provence 77 Gorges de la Nesque 253 Parc National du 201, 198, 201

Musée d’Arts Africains, Mercantour 290‑8, INDEX Parc National des 281 Collobrières 143 Océaniens et Calanques 178-9 Parc Ornithologique de Pont Haut-Var Hilltop Villages Améridiens 157 Parc National du Mer‑ de Gau 212, 214, 201 150, 150 Musée de la passports 328, 329 Roman Provence 220-3, M Boulangerie 272 cantour 290-8, 281 Pays d’Aix 182‑91 220 - S Musée de la Parc Naturel Régional de Pays de Venasque 257 Camargue 208 Camargue 209 Route des Crêtes 284, Peille 63 288-9 Musée de la Faïence 286 Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon 267 Peillon 63 Route du Temps 284 Musée de la Lavande 264, 291 Parc Ornithologique perfume Three Corniches, 50-1, du Pont de Gau 212, , , Musée de la Marine 126 Pernes‑les‑Fontaines 253 50 15 51 214, 201 rock‑climbing 22, 33 Musée de la Photogra‑ pétanque 320 Réserve Nationale de phie André Villers 80 phonecards 327 Roman history 302‑3 Camargue 209 Musée de la Préhistoire Picasso, Pablo 81, 86, 312‑13 Roman sites 22 newspapers 326 des Gorges du pissaladiere 35, 24 Arc Romain 250 Nice 47‑62, 54‑5, 13 Verdon 286 Plage de la Croisette 22 Cryptoportiques 204 accommodation 53, 56‑7 Musée de la Vallée 292 planning 20‑1 Gallo‑Roman activities 52‑3, 58, 58 Ruins (Vaison‑la‑ Musée de Vence 73 activities 31‑4 drinking 60‑1 Romaine) 241 Musée Départemental basics 16‑17 Arles Antique 204 eating 22 Les Arènes (Arles) budgeting 16, 17, 21, 323 Musée des Beaux entertainment 61 202, 11 calendar of events 26‑7 Arts 157 festivals & events 53 Les Arènes (Frejus) 96 children, travel with 39‑41 Musée des Civilisations food 57, 59‑60 Site Archéologique de food & drink 35‑8 de l’Europe et de la shopping 61‑2 Glanum 192 Méditerranée 156 internet resources 17, 300 sights 47‑52 Théâtre Antique Musée des Merveilles itineraries 28‑30 (Arles) 202 tourist information 62 297‑8 packing 20 Théâtre Antique (Orange) tours 53 Musée des Timbres et regions 42 22, 238, 230‑1 travel to/from 22, 62 des Monnaies 113 repeat visitors 22 Thermes de travel within 62 Musée d’Histoire de travel seasons 16 Constantin 204 Marseille 157 walking tour 58, 58 weather 16, 26, 27, 34, Romanesque Musée d’Histoire Jean Nietzsche, Friedrich 51 322, 326 architecture 316 Garcin: 1939–1945 Nostradamus 317‑18 Plateau de Valensole Roussillon 10, 265‑6, 256 Nouveau Musée National 176, 176 10, 269 Musée du Petit de Monaco – Villa politics 300‑1, 308‑9 Route des Crêtes 284, Palais 226 Saube 113 Pont du Gard221, 223 288-9 Musée du Tire‑ Route du Temps 284 Bouchon 273 Pont St‑Bénézet 226, 11 Musée Escoffier de l’Art O Pont du Gard 221, 223 Culinaire 73 Observatoire de population 301 S Haute‑Provence 277 Musée prehistory 302 safety 326‑7 ochre 266, Extraordinaire 275 268 Prieuré de Salagon 277 271‑2 oil mills 194 Musée Fragonard 77 Promenade des Anglais 47 salins (salt lakes) 200, 201 Olympique de Musée Gassendi 291 public holidays 325‑6 Salon‑de‑Provence 191 Marseille 320 Musée Granet 183 Sanary‑sur‑Mer 127‑8, 137 Musée International de opening hours 325 saucisson 9, 9 la Parfumerie 77 opera 121, 173, 234, 238 Q saucisson d’Arles 206 Musée Lapidaire 227 Orange 238‑41, 239 Quel Amour! 22 Sault 176, 250 Musée Masséna 52 outdoor activities 25 Sausset‑les‑Pins 182 Musée Océanographique R savonneries (soap-makers) de Monaco 111, 39 P radio 326 191, 192 Musée Pierre de Pagnol, Marcel 315 rafting 34, 285 School of Nice 313‑14 Luxembourg 236 painters 310‑14 Ramatuelle 107 Séguret 244‑5 Musée Promenade 290 Palais des Festivals et des Renoir, Pierre‑Auguste 311 Seillans 145‑6 Villa Méditerranée 156 Congrès 86 Réserve Géologique de senior travel 322-3 music 27, 318 Haute‑Provence 291 Palais des Papes 22, 225, 11 Sentier des Ocres 265 350 Sentier du Littoral time 327 food 217 Tour de la Pointe Bandol 128 tipping 21, 325 highlights 218‑19 St‑Hospice 65 Cap d’ Antibes 84 toilets 327 itineraries 220‑3 Tour du Cap‑Ferrat 65 Corniche de l’Estérel 94 Toulon 126‑7 markets 247 Verdon Nature 284 Gigaro 107 Tour du Cap‑Ferrat 65 planning 217 water sports 53 Roquebrune-Cap- tourist information 328 vegetarian travellers 38 weather 16, 34, 322, 326 INDEX INDEX Martin 67 Tourrettes‑sur‑Loup 75‑6 Vence 73‑4, 19 weights 326 Sentier Nietzsche 66 tours, see cycling tours, Ventabren 190 wetlands 212‑13 Site Archéologique de roap trips, see also Ventimiglia 70 white‑water rafting 25

S individual locations Glanum 192, 248‑9 Verdon Nature 284 wine -

W Tourtour 147 skateboarding 160 Vesúbia 22, 296 Cave du Félibrige 189 Train des Pignes 52‑3, skiing 26, 32, 247 Vieille Ville 130 Caveau Balma snorkelling 33‑4, 94, 134 294, 288 Vénitia 245‑6 Vieux Nice 13, 47, 13 snowboarding 32 train travel 330, 334 Caveau de 244 Vieux Port (Marseille) tram travel 22 soap‑making 191, 192 22, 153 Caves du Verger des travel to/from Provence & Papes 237 spoonbill 213 viewpoints 52, 66, 179 the Côte d’Azur 329‑31 Château Mont‑Redon 236 Stes‑Maries‑ Villa E‑1027 67 de‑la‑Mer 211‑15 travel within Provence & Château Ste‑Roseline 144 the Côte d’Azur 331‑5 Villa Ephrussi de St‑Jean‑Cap‑Ferrat 64‑5 Rothschild 65 Châteauneuf‑du‑ trekking, see hiking, Pape 237 St‑Paul de Vence 72‑4 Village des Bories 259, walking Domaine de la St‑Raphaël 94‑5 269 truffles 26, 36, 147, 243, Solitude 236 St‑Rémy-de- Villefranche‑ 250 École de Provence 191‑4 sur‑Mer 63‑4, TV 326 3 Dégustation 237 St‑Saturnin‑lès‑ Villeneuve‑lès‑Avignon Le Carré du Palais 227 Apt 266‑7, 269 235‑6 Les Caves du St‑Tropez 13, 98‑105, V visas 328 Commandeur 151 100, 13 vacations 325‑6 Les Vignerons de accommodation 99 vaccinations 323 Cotignac 149 activities 98‑9 Vaison‑la‑Romaine 241‑3, W walking 31‑2, see also hiking Maison de la Truffe et du beaches 102 249 Calanque de l’ Vin 273 drinking 103‑4 Vallauris 86 Érevine 180 Maison des Vins festivals & events 99 Vallée de la Roya 297‑8 Cap d’Antibes 84 Côtes de Provence 143 food 99, 101, 103 Vallée de la Tinée 295 Cassis 180 Vignerons de Correns 151 shopping 104 Vallée de la Vésubie 295‑7 Chemin du Paradis 75 wineries 248‑9 sights 98‑9 Vallée de l’Ubaye 291‑2 Circuit de Cézanne 188 Bandol 128 tourist information 104 Vallée des Merveilles 298 Circuit de Port‑Man 135 Château Crémade 183 travel to/from 104 Vallée du Haut‑Var 294‑5 Corniche de l’Esterel 93‑4 Château de la Gaude 183 travel within 105 Vallée du Haut Verdon Digue de Monaco 113 Château de Miraval 151 Suzette 245 293‑4, 280 Domaine des Château la Coste 183 Vallon des Auffes 160 swimming 34, 94, 326 Courmettes 76 Château Simone 183 Vallon Sourn 149 Synagogue de Gorges d’Oppedette 271 Clos Sainte Carpentras 250 Van Gogh, Vincent 202, Gorges du Magdeleine 180 204, 310‑11 Toulourenc 252 Domaine de la Var 123‑51, 124‑5 Gorges du Verdon 284 Brillane 183 T accommodation 123 taxis 334 Marseille 161 Domaine de l’Abbaye 146 driving distances 123 telephone services 16, 327 Monaco 115, 115 Domaine Pey Blanc 183 food 123 theatre 27, 173, 189 Nice 58, 58 Pays d’Aix 183 highlights 124‑5 Théâtre Antique (Orange) Refuge d’Art 291 Porquerolles 134 internet resources 127 22, 238, 230‑1 Sentier des Crêtes 135 St‑Tropez 106 Vaucluse 217‑57, theft 326 218‑19 Sentier des Plantes 134 wolves 296, 301 accommodation 217 Three Corniches, the 14, Sentier du Littoral 52, WWI 306‑7 50‑1, 50, 15, 51 driving distances 217 66, 67, 84, 128 WWII 307

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Hugh McNaughtan A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applica- tions, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne, Australia) he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field...

Oliver Berry Oliver is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular con- tributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including The Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.

Gregor Clark Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas. Titles include Italy, France, Portugal, Montreal & Quebec City, France’s Best Trips, cycling guides to Italy and California and cof- fee-table pictorials such as Food Trails, The USA Book and The LP Guide to the Middle of Nowhere. Gregor was born in New York City, and lived in California, France, Spain and Italy prior to settling with his wife and two daughters in his current home state of Vermont.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 9th edition – January 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 280 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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