N O T E S

TAKE N

WITH'

A N I T I N E R A R Y O F T H E R O U T E

FR O M

CARA C A S TO BOGOTA;

A E N I X A N P P .

!1

R F THE TE ’ BY AN O FFICE O UNI D STATE S ARMY .

PHILA DE LPHIA

1827.

BE IT RE ME MBERE a on th e fourt da of De D, th t h y - . mb er in th e fift first ear of th e n e en ence of th e L . ce ( S ) , y y I d p d

Uni e a e s of merica . D . 1826 H. C . C A R EY 8: I. t d St t A , A , LE A of th e sai is ric ave e osi e in i s Ofli ce th e i e of a , d D t t, h d p t d th T tl Book th e ri w ereo e c aim as ro rie ors in th e w or s fo ow ' , ght h f th y l P p t , d ll n to Wit i g,

“ - o es on o om ia ak en i n th e ear s 1822 3 . i an inerar N t C l b , t y W th It y an of th e Route from C aracas to Bogota; d an App endix . By an Ofli ’ ” cer of th e Unite d States Army .

In c on ormi to th e A ct of th e on re ss of th e Uni e a es e n f ty C g t d St t , i u e A n A ct for th e e ncoura emen of earnin se curin th e t t l d, g t l g, by g o ie s of m a s c ar s and ook s to th e au ors and ro n etors of c p p , h t , b , th p p ” suc co ies rin th e im e s erein me n ione and a so to th e A ct h p , du g t th t d, l , “ e n i e A n A ct su e men ar to an A ct en i e A n A ct for th e t tl d, ppl t y , t tl d, e ncoura emen of earnin s ecurin th e co ie s of ma s c ar s and g t l g, by g p p , h t , ook s to th e au ors and ro r e ors of suc co i e s urin th e imes b , th p p i t h p , d g t erein me n ione and e x en in th e ene fi s ereo to th e ar s of th t d, t d g b t th f t ” esi nin en ravin and e c in is oric a and o er r n s . d g g, g g, t h g h t l th p i t

. L D CA DWELL,

T— N H S S KERRET NI T T REET ,

PHILADELPHIA . P R E F A C E .

men of th e f l n es co THE arrange t ol owi g Not , m

’ i e me e u urs and com menced to begu l so t dio s ho , to

! of a e was n nue and ply with th e Wishes broth r, co ti d drawn to a conclusion by the stimulus of frequent

a f n n ui e f m a n e ua e re~ gr ti yi g i q ri s ro oth r q rt r, with gard to its progress. I h ave consulted th e books w ithin my reach

r m um I a e awn e i n and F o H boldt , h v dr d script o s

h a e u : f m De ons ome i i p ysic l r s lts ro p , s h stor cal d ata e If and economic d tails . I do not indicate with m e e n th e o on ue to ea it or pr cisio , p rti s d ch, is be cau e e w are no n e in m e io s th ir orks lo g r y poss ss n, and I cannot make the references frommemory

a with ex ctness .

In an ou u be s a e a m c d r it sho ld t t d, th t y inferma tion h as not always b een d erived from sources com pletely satisfactory even to myself. The names of

a e on the a a ena for n an e pl c s M gd l , i st c , obtained f m the of o r an e ma not a w ro pilot u c o , y l ays be cor

rectl en. Yet a e e h as ee s y giv , wh t v r b n tated as

’ m n un e m ersonal e a co i g d r y p obs rv tion, is th e res ult of m ressio s forme h as iti e i p n , d tily s tru , butformed A E P REF C . on th e s pot; and th e reflections are those which

e naturally sugg sted th ems elves .

f be a e wh af e n a e I it sk d, y, t r ridi g posth st through

un and en o l n s few a a a e a co try, j y g o dv nt g s , I h ave

en u e u ue a a en a um v t r d to p rs tr ck trodd by H boldt,

e um ma a ea e e my pr s ption y pp r l ss , w h n it i s cousi

' e e ea h a e e e s d e d r d, th at c tr v ll r s e with ifl rent eyes

' a a e ffe en e and i e is ttr ct d by di r t obj cts, collects d fl rent

f e t materials . A t r he h arvestman h as pass ed over th e field to mi nister to the p alates of th e more re

finr the eane i s i a we a e for e gl r st ll llo d to c t r thos , w hos e app etitesmay retai n a relish for more homely CHAPTER I. — — — Voyage La Guayra Yellow Fever Commercial regu

'

l atiens.

CHAPTER II. — — Road from La Guayra to Caracas Earthquake s Sym

‘ ' pathy of the United States .

C HA PTER III . — — — — The Host Visits Rosario Priests Party of pleasure ’ — im n s a — al —Dinne ar — In cri St. S o D y B l r p ty s p — — i — ' tions Morning ride Mr. Bland n Coh ee planta

CHAPTER IV — — Colombia Territorial divisions Historical sketch

— — i - Valley of Caracas Silla Capta n generalship.

" 1 CHA PTER V .

— ‘ — ‘ — — City ofCaracas Pavements Plazas Cathedral Mar — —é — — ket Costume Provisions M anufactures Soci ety — — — — bi i — Merchants Siestar Theatre No l ty L adies — Servants .

CHAPTER VI.

nera escri tions— C i ies towns and ‘ vi a Ge l d p t , , ll ges — Churches Private houses.

CHAPTER VII.

— — - — Journey Departure from Caracas San Pedro Victo

— - — - - ria San M ateo Bolivar Sugar plantation Ma

rac - - - ay Valencia Lake Tacarigua. Peasantry ii vi CQNTE NTS.

L eave Valenci a -Carabobo - General Paez -Barqui — — — semeto Colonel Manreky Tocuyo Agua Obispos

- — Santa Ana Truxillo.

CHAPTER IX.

— - — — — Leave Truxillo Farm house Valeria Mendoza -Ti I ' — ‘ — — mothes Fiesta of Independ ence Paramo Merida.

CHA PTER X .

Leave Merida - San-Juan - Military escort -Bridge Mountains -Dangerous road -E stanques - Cacao

— - — tree Besoin de Société—Bailadores r -Tobacco Mo — — — — n0polies La Grita Paramo Tariba Cucuta.

C HA PTER XI.

— - - - Leave Cucuta Hacienda Pamplona Chitaga Re

li i i —Ca it ne o - - - g ous process on p a j Suata 7 Susacon

- — ~ Santa Rosa -Paypa Tunja— A rrival at Bogota

CHAPTER XII.

— — —Q- - Valley ofBogota City Cathedral Ccuvent San Fran — — ’ — cisco Private h ouses Bolivar s Quinta Carnival ( — - — — Dinner parties Lake Guatavita Tequendama

Religious ceremomes .

CHAPTER XIII.

—- a— F Journey e Departure from Bogot acatativa—Villeta — — —' Guaduas Colonel A costa Honda.

CHA PTER XIV .

Navigation of the Magdalena.

CHAPTER XV .

— -i- — Journey to Carthagena Leave Barancas Amatis Tur — — — baco Itinerary Arrival Carthagena.

A PPE NDIX A .

A PPE NDI X B . NOTE S O N C OLOMBIA

Q — — — ‘ VOYA GE L A GUA r nA Y E LLO W FE VE R COMME E CIA E

RE GULATIO NS .

THE opportunity of accOmpanyl ng a citii eu of th e i e S a e w e i th e au o Un t d t t s, hos devot on to c s e f S o uth American Independ e nce h ad been rewarded a by a vote of th anks , nd th e e pith et benemérito, th e m an c n e as a b estowe d by Colo bi o gr ss , w gl dly th i e of : e mbraced by e w r t r the following notes . In d ep endently of an ardent des i re to visit foreign

‘ un ie e en h is e e o e a n co tr s, to xt d sph r f obs rv tio , to travel down his prejudices , and multiply his exist e n e a i im e f in ne w ua i — m i es c , by pl c ng h s l sit t ons ot v common to all trav ellers ; his ulterior view s p oint e d fe i a m T h e cau e in w i h to pro ss on l employ ent . s h c h e propos e d to engage w as not less holy th an th at which fifty years ago call ed forth th e exertions of h is forefath ers ; and th e th eatre w as equally dome s

s 1nce th as fo th e i and in e = tic, e struggle w r so l d endence of me i a But it was s n e eived p A r c . oo p rc , th at th e w ar was drawing too near its close to jus t The ify a stranger i n entering upon a ne w career. O 4 0 NO T E S O N C O L MBI A .

n e i e h ad ec me nfi en as Colombia s, b s d s , b o so co d t to

‘ of the n s no l on er to ee for th e res ult co flict, a g s k or d esire foreign aid ; and th e composition of th e

and the a e of its mora l e n e e u e m army , st t , r d r d s ch e i e be e i e ployme nt v ry l ttl to d s r d . T h e advantages of friendly i ntercours e w ith th e e men and in en ia ci ize n In the office rs of gov rn t flu t l t s , of is u ne w e e aff e u th e co urs e h jo r y , r ord d thro gh co nnexion a bove all ud ed to : the d emonstrations of ” r espect by the p ublic authoritie s h ave no personal fe e nce the w i e a n un n w n n i i ua but re r to r t r, k o i d v d l , e e the u u i n Of ra efu fee in w a w r o tpo r gs g t l l gs , to rds of th e a w e e e i n i n a th e chief p rty, hos x rt o s f vo ur of ei c un m e the e e e e th r o try pro pt d p opl to this { xpr s e a s non of th ir reg rd . r T a an o Octobe 2d. h e g ll t ship nw hich w e m a e i da at n w as e ine for the e b rk d th s y oo n, d st d e vwe of m ia fai win Soo wafted h er s r Colo b . A r d n proudly thro ugh the narrows of the h arbour ofN e w but on a ac in s an a ne e a York; ppro h g dy Hook , c ss ry al teratl on 10 h e r c u e f th e w ndin ofthe o rs , to ollow i gs

anne e w the in a e can . T h i ch l , dr w d r th r s t e p lot, w hos e ey es w ere alternately gl ancing at the tremu

u c e - au e a or ~rivette d on the wa e of lo s , los h l d s ils , st w a e w i h e a ea fa th o evince d m t rs h ch pp red to m, so e \

unea ine e he u not- be a e c ea th e s ss, l st sho ld bl to l r ar A n e b . xcl amati o n of s atisfactio n put us at rest as ll l S uc e His e n i n w i h ad een to s c ss . att t o , h ch b

‘ m e e e n e is d utie s now a ea e co pl t ly gross d by h , pp r d e ua e a ed a d h me a e no fu e q lly r l x , n e s ee d to t k rth r e e in th e m e me n his e h ad s o e en l int r st ov ts, v lce r c t y V O YA GE .

direct d . w h en s uddenl as a e t e , ya cr h rrest d h e atte n i n of a T h e a t o all on bo rd . l shings Of th e block Of the main ace h ad a e and t e br p rt d , h h uge y al d s w ung 1 ound ein no n e 1 ace the w T he , b g lo g br d to ind .

i ife atin we n c mma n in a ea p lot, voc r g t ty o ds br th , an th e w ee un i no w v ne b a n e x spr g to . h l, t l go er d y

“ erienced ai u the i a u a nd p old s lor, bro ght sh p bo t,

‘ instead of co ntinuing on the ne w tack a nd e ndea vourin ai n the s e a h is u e as c an ed g to g , p rpos w h g l ’ t — w ithout a n i nstant s hes i atl on or d el ays th e ship at

w a e w his command ore round, nd in ten minut s as e w a s r at é a t at anchor insideth Hook . 1 highly g ifi d this displ ay of promptne ss a nd s elf- poss e ssion on

an e in e i e n - fi i . co O r th e p art of the p lot, d th t ll g t pe a

i n of the c e w . ac ma n a e a e a e a t o r E h pp r d to , h v

' d a e i e u w i h e e fixe d statio n a n pr scr b d d ty, h ch p r

u nfu i n . n i manmuvre e e formed witho t co s o I th s , v ry “ ” i th e i w as ei e l et u e and r op e n sh p th r go or h a l d, th e yards performed ' a complete revolution ei e a n ea ni d. W n October s gh d chor rly this mor g, after h aving repal red the d a mage of th e p receding

enl n and out s ea . fre eeze ev g, stood to A sh br u us in a few u th ulf ream en bro ght ho rs to ezg st , wh

‘ th e motion of th e ship became rather annoying to us l andsmen. e f he ean of the e ffe T he ind efinite exp ans o t oc , ct ea not ke me as of w hich I had so often r d , did stri

O u1 e e w as u a fine ones and s o s ublime . v ss l s ch tain great w as my co nfid e nce i n the skill Of th e cap e w and m e e m a nd the activity of th e cr , so co pl t y n a the ignorance of the real d angers of navigatio , th t N OT E S ON “ C O LO MBI A

feeling of appre hensmn so necess ary to th e s ublime W i e azi n on th e never entere d my mind . h l g g s d efine d circle w hich encomp ass ed our ship as .1t

e i n a n e n ea u e find au e for a s centr , I v i d vo r d to c s

t w e e it h ad “ een i e e s o tonis hmen , h r b d scov r d by many others I look ed with dl sappomtme nt foi me new m e i n u e n a ne w ain of so i pr ss o , s gg sti g tr

u but e e was n n of the in . T h e tho ght, th r othi g k d sole impression w a s th a t of abeautiful ring of about h a f a mi e a iu un e a e en cu a l l r d s , bo d d by p rp di l r

w a a i a w e a a e for a a e u e . ll, d m r bly ll d pt d r c co rs i a in e in i e ec it w ul be Although d s ppo t d th s r sp t, o d

impossibl e to e xpress my a dm iration of th e trans ,

a e n c1 atal i e a ea ance of the a ue p r t, y l k pp r d rk bl a e and i a n c n a w th e mi w t r, its br lli t o tr st ith lk white

e f m the bow w i at ni . fo am d ash d ro , h ch gh tapp ear i e a ma of ui fire f the did l k ss liq d , rom multi tud e of uml nous in e l s cts , W e spok e eight or ten vess els on the p a ss age ; o e ime he e w e e ee f u i n h at n t t r r thr or o r sig t . Th es e tin on the h a of mme e r e gree gs .hig w y co rc a e xtre mely

a eea e in a of w ar th e inma e of .vVhich gr bl ship , to t s , a strange s ail does not c all up the uncomfortable ea of a i a e but to a e e u a mame id p r t ; v ss l Witho t r nt, ’ a lonely voyage is much to be preferred to doubtful c m an o p y . O n a n nea t e n of A uillia w e sa p ssi g r h isl a d q , w W a at fi w as u e to be a a e u in h t rst s ppos d Wh l spo t g . T he app earance was afterwards a scertaine d to be a ne th e u f n a in the occ sio d by s r striki g ga st rocks, under s uch circumstances as to throw a col umn of ‘A LA GUA YR . {3

i water into the am at least fifty feet h gh . It w as this app earance in nature w hich s uggested to Mont of h s au ic ra gol fier the idea i hydr l m . W e e to a October i 8th . a i d at La ua 1 a rr v d y G y , i an el ent w of n ti e a w thout y m d orthy o c , nd found ’ e th e ni e S a e i C ane ca ta n S e th re U t d t t s sh p y , p i p nce,

' n en s a of me an m O u an a d about t w ty iL rch t en. chor in we fi e a u e we e n e e f m th e g, r d s l t s, which r a s w r d ro b atteries on shore

“ a am th e i e of the Li e a w ho M d s st r b r tor, , ’ wi h er fam h ad een our fe w a en e th ily, b llo p ss g r, exc us ed h ers elf from going on s h ow with th e rest ’ of th e om an a s s h e h ad ma e a vow a if c p y, d , th t ever s h e should be p ermitted to revisit h er n ative un f m w i s h e h ad een e e nine ea co try, ro h ch b xil d y rs ,

s he w o uld la nd b arefoote d . h e a ea a e on a a n a ua a a T pp r nc ppro chi g L G yr , w s iffe en f m ha of th e low and e an es so , d r t ro t t v rd t s hor

h ad a e ef as s i e meb v th e n ra I so l t ly l t, , to tr k y co t st

e T he ru ed o utlinev t in a v ery lively mann r . gg of he mountai ns i s stro ngly define d upo n th e sky ; th e

n e e i a i es of i ain w hi h rocky a d p rp nd cul r s d th s ch , c

i t e a of a a a a e ea e for" sk rts he whol co st C r c s , h v br st d co untless ages the impotent rage of th e ocean ; they a ea e fe en and are a m w e as if pp r p r ctly b arr , l ost hit , a c f a e a s c l ine d by the po werful influence o v rtic l un . Th e S ill a a e of a a a a en mme , (s ddl , ) C r c s, sc ds I diatel e i the n th e ei of 8000 fee y b h nd tow , to h ght t, and is i f m the e a it eem so l ttle remove d ro shor , th t s s i m t s ea a e an e im f he . to r s e diately out o C p Bl co, f u i e t a ua a e e ed o r m l s to he west of L G yr , is r nd r O N L NOT E S C O O MBI A . promi nent by its conic al summit of dazzling brightf ness .

1812 M . de um t as e ine Previous to , H bold c rta d the h eight of th e l ook - out on th e s ummit of the cap e ' to be 384: fee t ; but I h ave been ass ure d by a ge ntl e man w ho e e at La ua a i n 1812 a it un r sid d G yr , th t s k f 1x t e i fee u in he convul sio l of rom s y to ghty t, d r g t n t 6th of a ea W ai the ca 1 he 2 of March th t y r, hich l d p tal an t o- Of th e t w n of V e nezue a in , d w thirds o s l h an fu e a ea u emen of i u n . S u u m r i s ” o ld y t r d s r t th s h ei i e e e e a i n an as s1 n d ght, g v a l ss l v t o th that g e to it

- it i e ue M . de um w no u b a i by H boldt, ll do bt ttr b t d e ro er cause a f ea of n a u e w e o to th p p , r k t r ; hos pe ratio ns a re less invariribl e th an the res ults of th e philosophical obs ervations of the “ first of travel ” e l rs , T he rocky sid es of thrs ch am are finely contrast» ed w ith the n arrow strip of Cultivate d l and at its

a e w i th e ea u f a - bearl n am is b s , m h ch b ti ul coco g p l m n i u u a m n at nce if e evi ost co sp c o s , procl i i g o , oth r

euce we e w a n in th e e i n of th e i . d s r t g, r g o trop cs

ui u i be t the w n of La B lt pon this narrow l , to G uayra is confine d by rocks almost inaccessibl e 111 ea u n w e a e a e are een its r r, po hich , batt ry. bov b tt ry s w e in a e a in m e to its i u e ue to r g to h ight, dd g or p ct r sq appearance th an d efence and in front is h e mmed

‘ inby a strong line of w ell - constructed water b atte ~ e the s f ri s, b as e of w hich is w ash ed by th e ur .

‘ T h e a - 1 one e e cur ro d stead s an ope n , xpos d _to e n de u i e a driftl n of th e and r ts , str ct v storms , g s w i h u ie t e ‘ an e n e in it ne e a h c b r s h chor, r d r g c ss ry to Y A ' LA GUA R . weigh every e1ght or ten days ; open toall th e pre a en wi n a nd a hea su f w i is1 m da v l t ds, vy r , h ch ost n

e n in a a m . w as th e a e in 1822 w en g ro s c l This c g , h f s e ve nteen or eighteen vess els w ere das h ed upon the ’ 1 ocks . T he ni e S a e f i a e n e n U t d t t s r g t Co gr ss, o ly e a e the a e fa e u h th e i a nd sc p d s m t , thro g sk ll unex

' ed e xert of er a n ed ampl ions h officers d crew. R uce d to .h er a an s h e had i en out th e e l st chor, r dd s w ll till

‘ m nin w e n s h e w as een b th e an u or g, h s y xio s spec

“ ’ tators on the e 1e cas ona th e h ea shor , to y ld oc i lly to

e w a s in a u i i u dis cre vi r Waves . This ow g to j d c o s

T o th e Ci ums a tion in payi ng outc able . e v ry rc t nce w ic e ci e m a e e ni on e th e i h h x t d ost ppr h s on shor , sh p o h af S h e Was probably I nde bted f l er s ety . e scape d w i the of tw o an a nd tw o ee me th loss chors, or thr n, w ho had been s ent to afford as s 1s tance to th e oth er In a i i n e e an e ahd inco vessels . dd t o to th s d g rs nve

‘ nces th e e of w a e d e n e ee e i t nie , d pth t r o s ot xc d gh at the i ance of one mi e f mth e e fathoms , d st l ro shor . e e is e i e no m e f all mus Th r , b s d s , ol or Wh ar ; goods t

n and em a e in “ a s in a u f at be l a d e d b rk d bo t , s r th i e ex osm th e me ne ver completely s ubs d s , p g rch an dis e to loss or d amage . T h e moment a boat approach e s th e shore with a e n e and a a e fif ee n w en ne e p ss g rs b gg g , t or t ty gro s , d of a i u ca a in no e e i an men v r o s sts, h v g oth r cov r ng a n a ail of a we a e a e1 un e th p dr rs , dr ss , or r th dr ss, : well ad a pted to display th eir remarkable mus cular

‘ e ve men and s mmet1 of n u d lop ts , y y proportio s , r sh in a the e u ei w i s to mee the a . to s a p to th r st , t bo t E ach s eizes something proportio ned to his s t1ength ; men and trunks are indiscriminately ral sed upon awn ul e and are a ie th eir br y sho d rs , c rr d through

th e s urf to the shore . As this is done in the tw ink

" of an e e wi c n en a e an e ling y , thout o s t sk d or gr t d, u are mew a s ur r1sed on ein e w yo so h t p , b g pitch d do n n th e ea as e at th e wan of ce e n of upo b ch, w ll t r mo y u new as at th e a ea an e of a ian yo r hosts, pp r c Agr r l

l aw w ic ou w u be 1nclined s u ose existo , h h y o ld to pp y ‘ d f m ee in u effe in an d e am n e , ro s g yo r cts st tly ivid d o g

th e s urrounding crowd ; for it s eems to be a n esta n

sh ed n a ea s ca1 but one ar bli pri ciple, th t ch i to ry p cel w e e m l it ma be th e i e a ic e , ho v r s a l y , l ght r rt l s ’ ein un e u n th e w h o are nei e b g po c d po by boys, th r l ess a dve nturous th an th e men for th e s afe ty of your

’ a a e nor e c am us i i m o b gg g , l ss l oro n th e r d e ands f r t e e i e e a e f e t h s rv c th y h v orc d yh u to accept . As he a f a e e e i i a i e arri v l o v ss l xc te s co ns d er ble nt rest, and ' a ac man e e the an n ou find no ttr ts y p opl to l di g, y difficul ty in obtaining th e winformation you may res ui e u ean is ea i i in ui h q r . A E rop s ly d st g shed e e e ou as a un man a un man e e e gr ts y co try , co try r c iv s ou a s a e and are m oifer thel r y broth r, both pro pt to a i a c ss st n e .

- O n e n e n th e m h u e , a e ou ar t ri g custo o s g t , y e u e e at n e n a m le crowd in a e a t sh r d o c i to ot y , , Wid p r

of th e ma n ee a r i a a s a ma e . T h e i str t, pp opr ted rk t scanty covering of those e ngage d in c this b usy throng ; th e disproportionately l arge number Of w o men of the low er class the v ario us casts ; th e dis gus ting cripples ; the h are - footed soldiers ; and the

e i a e ie a e a e n i , T h e f u p tt co t d pr sts, first rr st tt t on r its

O N C O I NOTES LOMB A .

d a u e in a cima e ei n c n i e ed y, s pp rs so hot l t b g o s d r e as w e as inimi a an ui ‘ e unwholesom , ll c l to tr q l sl ep,

be obta1ne d ~on a c un of the o re so difficult to , c o t pp s ” ( e n e dis u n nfl ue e Be sive h at a d oth r t rbi g I nc s . ' sid es th e square court into which th e ch amb ers look an e in th e ea a ia e e a e ed, oth r r r, p rt lly cov r d by sh d, con ained th e i en a e s and ffi e w h u t ‘ k tch , st bl , o c s , it o t h a any divismo by partitions . T e f stidious w oul d do well to avoid pa s s l ng thro ugh this court before

' E l o ed t is da i n w an in u dinner . mp y h y der g thro gh he s ee a e ie and u n of the wn. u t ; tr ts , b tt r s , r i s to M l f titudes of een iza f m tw o o five inc e n gr l rds , ro t h s lo g, t to a e ou at fi as e a are ap st rtl y rst, th y d rt acros s

~ u a at e e e . A fe w da are uffi ien yo r p th v ry st p . ys s c t,

D h a m ess . url n m am e as r l g y r bl s , I w attracte d by l a crow d witnes sih th e n i of a um g a t cs t bler, dress ed i e a e u n w h o i t l k H rl q i , took th s p ublic me hod of gi vmg a s s ample of h is talents ; at th e s ame time ad vertising th e inh abitants th at h e woul d gi ve an ex » h ibition at me a ed a e in the so st t pl c eveni ng .

T h e soldiers onpost and wandermg through the «

’ wn u me the va e of e m ex n to , str ck by ri ty th ir co pl io s, and ei w an o ei s th r t f shoes . Th r uniform i a linen a ee w i h ue uffs a coll i e n . ars l n n us e co t t bl c d , , tro rs, — and ea e ca m e w u G i e l th r p tri m d ith m slin. r ppl s and e a are met w at ev a b gg rs ith ery corner, b sking

m a i n co p ss o . Mus t of th ese deformitie s are the re sultof wan of ean e a d ina e t.» t cl lin ss, n ttention to xtrac G Y LA UA RA . 1 9

in th e e s e i e g gg , d pos t d und er the skin by an 1nsect a c lle d chigre or niguas . oth ine w i th October 2 . D d th e American consul atM ai uitia a ma l v a e a u a f a q , s l ill g bo t h l milewes t of La ua a w i a ain a d G yr , th c pt n o th er

me i an . In th e e enin I w as a a e A r c s v g, ttr ct d by f m t e t so me d elight ul [na e on h e h arp . I cross d h e

“ ee and an in nea th e d of a str t, st d g r oor but for a fe w mi e ei e a n n e nutes r c v d n i vitatio to enter . Th nma e a ne and a mu a w an w e c me i t s , gro l tto om , l o d me wi i ene and w u the ea e a th pol t ss , itho t l st mb r rass ment h and ed me th e only ch air th e c abi n con tained S o me au ifu ai w e e a e amon . be t l rs r pl y d ; g

‘ e a i n I was ac uainte oth rs cotill o q d w ith . A young man and w man l af e ame in and da e o short y t r c , nc d v ery gracefully and w ith much spirit a ~coquettis h an e in w ic th e s w ain a e a e s ue for fa d c , h h pp r d to w e th e au a e ec e his a en vour ; hil h ghty l ss r j t d tt tions,

‘ t h er ne e h e u e in t till tired ou by gl ct po t d um . T h e e ame th e ui e and endea l ady th en b c s tr ss , voure d

‘ to mollify th e a nger of h e1 lover; a reconciliation en e a e and th e a1 1e n and T th tak s pl c , p t s joi h s wo “ e i en hen w a ze e — e i little b arefoot d ch ldr t lt d v rypr tt ly .

” “ 9 ’ ” - ' La Guayra 1s situated in 1 0 3 6 19 1iorth l ati ° 4 W shin u e and 55 ea n i u e f m n. t d , 9 st lo g t d ro a gto It contai ns at present about four thous and five h un uffe e s1nce 181 e ua dred inh abitants ; h aving s r d 0, q lly

“ ' th e e w n th e uni e efl ects with n ighbouri ng to s , t d of ea u e fa ine e e ce and an extermi rthq a k s , m , p stil n , ’ nating war of twelve years d uration. S O 20 NOTE ON COL MBIA .

a e ° Th e mean temp er tur of th e year is 82 Fahr, e n DO . Hot s aso a DO . Cold s e son M aximum Minimum R ain is no me an fre uen but a ma uan by s q t, s ll q e t tity falling in the cours of h e year . a ion Of the n e T he T he loc t tow is v ry smgul ar . ch ain of mountal ns th at s eparate s th e port from the a e of a a as e en i a e h igh v ll y C r c , d sc ds precip t t ly to

in ei un fee of the s a ea in but with ght h dred t e , l v g ‘ th at sp ace of moderately incline d ground for the e e are a an e in t a w and b uildings . Th s rr g d w o n rro ee t hav1n a ene a i i rregular str s , g g r l d rection east and nnec e e a t an e l in w est, co t d by oth rs right gl s s op g T consid erab ly tow ards th e s ea . h e whole are w ell e and e le a ean pav d, k pt to r bly cl ' a a e ie atdiflerent e S ever l b tt r s , h ights on th e sides

h e m un ain mman th e w a e - of t o t s , co d t r b atteries, i are w e u of exe en ne and co w h ch ll b ilt c ll t sto , m

a the T h e - » pl etely encomp ss town. bomb proof case a e e ca acl ous s uffi ien mates r v ry p , c tly so to sh elter

i f the 1 abitants “ n o nh l n a e, of a great port o , c s an at ’ m t e / e e are ee a e tack fro h s ea. Th r thr entr nc s ; those on th e eastern and w es tern extremities of the town re efen e a e e a e and n a d d d by tr v rs s, rtill ry, stro g h ua f are a i ne a e at w o e . g t s , hic g rds soldi rs st t o d

he i en an e a mid - w e ween the T th rd tr c , bout ay b t

m, e tw o t . i th e u oth r , looks to he north Th s is c sto u e a e ll e a e an e ho s g t , through w hich a m rch ndis l d d or e o he e intend d t be embarked must p ass . T stor LA GUA YRA a houses and offices connected with th e revenue are convenient to this gate ; and directly in front ofit is ‘ t e of the me ican n u the i a he otiic A r co s l, str pes wav es a es the ing from its r oof. Th e g t closed at six t l ck in th e en n nd e main i th e o c O ev i g, a r so t ll s ame ’ T he w ate - a e ie a u ne ni n . ho r xt mor g r b tt r s , lthough

e - u and u i u e are out o r w ll b ilt, j d cio sly dispos d, f e ai r and at e en are nea i e of ei a p , pr s t rly str pp d th r r e not m e an e ‘ ten e e ein till ry, or th ight or pi c s b g

‘ m un e T h e a e a e h ow ever h av . e ea o t d b tt ri s bov , , n m in a ea an e and mman n e a e i pos g pp r c ; , co di g ch oth r, c ould be defende d as long as provisione d ; but wo uld be unabl e to prevent a maritime e ne my from d e stroy

in th e n wi e . T hel r i mmen e ei g tow th sh lls s h ght,

t e a e time a it in u e , e own ecu i at h s m th t s r s th ir s r ty, diminish e s th e efficacy of th e protection th ey could th afford e tow n. T he front stree t is by far th e most comfortable ; as from th e s econd story of its h ouses you look imme a e e th e a e and e n fin di t ly ov r b tt ry, joy a e view of the sea and es el i the a as w e as th ~ v s s n ro d , ll e re

f e in ea eeze . T he e n ee e r sh g s s br oth r lo g str t, b tween ‘ fir t and th e m un ain is mu nfine l th e . s o t , ch co d A re s idence i n this p art of th e town,w ould be ins up a e in t ea n e e it n t f port bl , d ur g he hot s so , w r o or an e e a i n in th e un (w ena e the s ea l v t o gro d, hich bl s e o i breez t h ave a p artial c rculation. T h e use ene a l of two n e are ui ; ho s, g r l y sto s, b lt ei e of ne d a of i urn n th r sto an mort r, br cks b t or o ly ie in th e sun o im of amme ea a ed dr d , r s ply r d rth , c ll

’ ta ia in m a e e i e i e p , ost c s s pl aster d w th lim , both ins d E 22 NOT S ON COLOMBIA .

s e t e e arth en tiles . Tho of h e b etter order h ave bal

e e f m th e s un a n a of the f sh elt r d ro by conti u tion roo , b s upported y posts . n a in u th e eet of La ua ra the I w lk g thro gh str s G y , the ea ua e of th e 26th of ar 1812 rthq k M ch , ,

of th e ho us es escap e d, th at calamity ; one- h alf still S ix n remal n l n ruins . h u dre d li ves w ere lost in

‘

one, ui in th e rmci al c u in i th e b ld g, p h rch , w h ch , p

a d a a i n th e im en in a n dor t o , p d g cat stroph e ; th us h as nin ei in s ea th a m te g by th r bl d l, e c l a ity th ey sought

i in em a i fi e u for th e er e buld g, t por r ly tt d p s vic of re T h e is nan e of th e ac e tigl o n. d s o c cr k d be lls re ininds the inh abitants three or four times a d ay of th e a m ic e u e ei t w a c la ity, wh h r d c d th r o n to mass of uin and m ie a e ac u t e r s , i pl s r pro h pon h good C a tholics w h o a e mi e e l ace x them and , h v o tt d to r p , h ave

" t e e e a m e ub i But i w lv y rs encu b re d with r b sh . th s ne ec ma be a i a a c un e for th gl t y s t sf ctorily c o t d , by e

‘ continued' s tate of war and the uat n of the wn , sit io to , expose d to be b attered at any moment by an enemy ” in e n i - t a W e ua e poss ssio of s up er ority a s e . hol sq r s are ti i n ui n e h avm een ne but ea s ll r s, littl g b do to cl r th e s treets of th e u i r bb sh . I n th e eastern quarte r of the tow n fronting th e sea i s a t' a , good hotel kep by nA mericanfrom Bal LA GUA Y RA .

e u e u e an e w ut timor . This ho s is s pport d by str g rs ho he commerce carries to the port . T h abits of the his e er e in w a e a e me S p aniard, r s v h t r l t s to do stic en e him a e e i in in a concerns, r d r v rs to l v g p ublic T h e few now be f un i n m ia h o us e. to o d Colo b ow e th eir establishment and support to t h e p atronage of foreigners .

‘ About h alf a m ile from th e iw estern extremity of th e w n the e a e of Mai u tia th e c to is pr tty vill g q i , re e e of th e me i an c n u nne e sid nc A r c o s l , co ct d with La

Guayra by a ro ad along th e b each . This spot en joys a free circul ation of air ; a nd as the monntam e e m a f m th e e th s h re retir s so e wh t ro shor , e p ace e of u i a n or wh h a be a rol cap abl c lt v tio , ic m y pp

‘ s much -e e priated to buildings i nl arged . H re also are groves of p al ms, w hich yi eld a pleas ant sh ad e, and are more gra teful to ' th e eye th an th e glare of t i e a f~ e n But t the s un from he wh t w lls o th tow . h e

e a an a e i ua n en s is a ~ great st dv t g th s sit tio joy , n ex emption from the effects of theradiant h eat from th e a T he ea en out in i wa u in mount ins . h t giv th s y d r g ni nea as e e as th e e i th e ght, is rly oppr ssiv dir ct n

ue nce of th e sun u n th e d a . O ur n u I fl d ri g y co s l, n n an e me i an h as u a conj unctio with oth r A r c , p rch sed

e a e e and af e the u m of m u » som l nd h r , t r c sto his m

tr men h as a it out in ee and u in . y , l id str ts b ild g lots A few y ears after the country s h all h ave become an u w a s ee i a u in a e tr q il, ill prob bly th s flo rish g pl c ,

‘ rl valling La Guayra ; as nat ural obstacles pres ent an ins up erabl e ba rrier to anyf urther increase in th e an o pl f that town. N O N 243 OTES COLOMB IA ,

’ n in th e res t a a iti' It 1s o ly p eu ye r th t Mr. Lowry

h as received the less equivocal appomtme nt of con» sul w i at the ame me a en e him , h ch, [ s ti th t it r d rs more respectable in the eyes of th e p eople of La ’ Gua ra “ and of forei n me an 1ll ena e him y , g rch ts , w bl

‘ to become still more extensively us eful to his com ci l mer a countrymen. La ua a is u ied w i u e G yr s ppl th w ater by a riv l t, the source oftwhich is on the mountain at a distance

of m e f m the sea. eam a u am six il s ro This str , ltho gh ie for the u of th e wn wa m and not p s pply to , is r

' b s a very agreea l e to the taste . This quality i prob u e i n a n e e a i a bly acq ir d p ssi g ov r b ds of s ars p ar ll , i m a which are s a d to i p rt to it a medici nal virtue . e u th e en n th e in t e el Pr vio s to op i g port 1797, h y w fe e w as un n wn ih La ua a in l o v r k o G yr . Its tro uctl on a te a i f m P a d ls ttribu d to br g ro hilad elphi , on board of-w hich the di s ease first made its appear i n e and Was h en e c mmuni ate the a c , t c o c d to hospi h e n tals and to wn. T i nh abita ts insiste d that th e a e dis ease h d b een imported . T h captain of theves el as i i e a e e a ar f h avm s pos t v ly ss rt d, th t, so f rom g uce th a a ai h a au it in introd d e m l dy, his s lors d c ght

port . Opl mons were at onCe divid ed betwe en do estic i i an T he disc ssmn er m or g n d importation. u p h aps would h ave b een carried on with as much hea as it a r ie h ad t h s been smce 1n some of ou cit s,

Mr . Low r w as th e first commercia a ent of th e Unite y , l g d S a es to the S a resi e at La ua ra with t t p nish Main. He d d G y occasiona a sences ren ere necessar b o itica events l b , d d y y p l l , from 1810 i 1825 when he ell a vi c im to the c imate. t ll , f t l

O N NOTES COLOMBIA .

e e un e th e e e a i n of « » wholly negl ct d , d r xp ct t o disco “ " T h e an f uc e in i as ine . w o w verl ng m s t s c ss th s ,

e au e of the l al in ne e i nof me a th c s g g gl ct, this port o A u ca e xp erienced fi o m S p ai n ; th e w hole attention

” in i ec ed e ic a nd Pe u un e m e b e g d r t to M x o r , co tri s or i ne a w e a h ab und ant i n m r l lt .

1 63 15 the u eize d u on' th e an of Oh In , D tch s p Isl d ra oa an ma in it a omme i a em um g , d by k g c rc l pori , ‘ ’ imu a e nei hbours on the Ma n to draw st l t d th eir g x i , f m the u fa e of ei ine au e e ro s r c th r, xh stibl soil, thos adv antages w hic h s eemed to be d eni ed in its b we an e ch an e f u i n o ls , by x g o their surpl us prod ct o s f e of u e fi a ac e e m e or thos E rop e . Th y rst tt h d th selv s the cu u e of caca w ic w i hide for a n to lt r o, h h th s , lo g me e i m c t n i u he me ia a e . i , co st t t d t r co r l b rt r This contrab and w ith th e D utch being uns h ack /

ed e n i e e the o erce i a ; l , t r ly d stroyed c mm w th S p in T he m an of Gai us oa w as e n e a i ed co p y p c , th st bl sh a e wi h V enezuela u n he c n i i n of de to tr d t , p o t o d t o

s n i n a an . i u cee e th e troyi g th s , co tr b d Th s s c d d to

a an a e of th e c om a'n a d S ain and th e dv t g p y n p , to i s atisfaction of tl e colonists till w hen th e com an a i n aine a n f m th e in p y h v g obt d mo opoly ro k g, ”

’ ~ the c ni W1s e l . the a a m and the an olo sts y took l r , , tr quillity of the province w as on the eve of b eing dis ;

‘ ‘ ’ tur bed w en am odification of th om an ha , h e, c p y s c r ter a mi e a a t be f me m e one , d tt d bo rd o or d , co pos d ha f of cu i a th er of th e e e of th l lt v tors, e oth m mb rs e m an eci e h i e of a a th e in co p y, to d d on t e pr c c c o, pr ci al art t icl e t . e ean h uan w as in p By th es m s , e q tity ea ed and cr s , oth er productions, hid es and tob acco, w e a er dded . I GU COMMERC AL RE LATIONS .

‘ The m an n e n a e i n th e on a an co p y soo g g d c tr b d, w c e h ad een e a e e T hi h th y b cr t d to d stroy . h e ab us e e min a in i n 1778 the l e ul tion a e of b co g gl r g, , g a c ll d f e e mme ce w as ut in e ecu i n . r co r , p x t o . By this, S p aniards w ho should b uild a v ess el of a certain nna e be manne b an to g , to d y S p is h s ubj ects,obtain ed the i e e of a in w the ni e and f priv l g tr d g ith colo s , our teen or fiftee n poi ts were opened i n the Peni ns ula and the a a e and e en on th e S a i Ma C n ri s , s v p n sh i n. La Guayra w as first op ened to neutrals general l an e of th e 18th e m e 1 : y, by ord r Nov b r, 797 but the clamour rai s ed by the merch ants of the moth er un in uce th e in an O e of the 1 t co try , d d k g, by rd r 3 h of e ua 1800 e k e not n the e F br ry, , to r vo , o ly ord r e i e n but a e e e e mi pr viously g v , lso, v ry oth r p r ssion, ene al a i u a an e ei e imse f 0 1 g r or p rt c l r, gr t d th r by h l , the ovei nors Vi ce in e n an of m by g , roys or t d ts A e T u a e en i n a f ee mme ce fe m r ca . f r e i h s t r j oy g r co r , or a t o ea it w as e on the i a i th n w y rs , clos d sol cit t ons , and for th e advantage of a fe w 1nteres ted mer

ch ants . This s tate of l egal interdiction continued till the

“ 20th of Ma 1801 wen the ca a n ene a of y, , h pt i g r l a ene the for th e re md ue of th e C arac s op d port .

’ ear or i the e u n of ea e u a e e n y , t ll r t r p c , sho ld th t v t ne a e a e wi a iew imi ni the con soo r t k pl c , th v to d sh an trade which ha een ac e a i e on trab d , , d b tiv ly c rr d b th e u butm e ai ticul arl the n i y D tch, or p y by E gl sh, notwithstanding th e w ar in which the two nations w e e a e T S an a a in no neu a r eng g d . he p i rds h v g tr l

/ ' f en n which the u e a re c or ri dly colo y, to _ y co ld l g lly r ri $28 No s ON COLOMB I A .

" e t Gaud al o e th e u c an h a s ort, exc p up , ( D t h, D is , nd S wedish poss essions being occupie d by th e Eng

” it e ame» ne e a a all vess el n lish , ) b c c ss ry th t s goi g to ,

‘ Jamai a C ura oa ni a h u ea out f r c , g or Tri d d , s o ld cl r o

e e t e u - f Gaudal oupe. H nc h c stom hous e registers o th e” a e i e e en es of * an a e S p nish ports , xhib t d vid c ctiv and 1mportant commerce ‘ between th e Main and Gaudal oupe; w hile thos e of the latter mad e no men~

u n a e far f om ein on e rze th s e g g d , so r b g c sid red p i s, re ei e on t e contrar ass orts m th e E n c v d h y, \ p p fro g ‘ is h admiral s and e e en n e i h l , w r ev co voy d by Br tis crul s ers .

u it was i n t me of a ua ar a n an Th s i ct l w , th t E gl d l aid the found ation of h er extensive commerce with

’ “ th S an Main and a Jama a e a e , th t lc b c me the ‘ p ish e mporl nm to w hich nearly all its prod uctions are ‘ e e a d f m w n arl l a xport d , n ro hich e y al its w nts are

the re en me th e: mme e e At p s t ti , co rc b etwe n Ja maica and the single port of C arth agena employs ten we e e e w i h al e m n l or t lv v ss ls, h c o th y co nvoyed a and f wa n lis h u a b ck or rd by E g cr is ers, m intamed L by government for th at esp ecial purposeq

‘ J For the resent commercia re u a ions of the e u ic p l g l t , R p bl f ’ o Co om ia see Mr. A n so s e or l b , d er n R p t to the Secretary of I

Sta e A en ix A . and f r return of th t , pp d ; o a e exports from La M R L e GU C O ME C I A R LATion s . 29

S l st O tober 1823 rom o l r turns . c , , f fi cia e

Import d uties 8 06z§~

Export do.

Tonnage do.

A nchorage do. riz s P e do.

i 5eg P R CHA TE II.

I O D F O LA GU Y TO C C S—— H R A R M A RA ARA A E ART QUAKE S .

O tober 2 1 . m an e me f e wh c Acco p i d by so ri nds, o “ L ’ ‘ h ad rendezvous ed at Mr . owry s house for th at ’ u e w e m un e our mue a u p rpos , o t d l s bo t 7 o clock i m n n wi ex ectatl ons at a e n th s or i g, th; high p tr v lli g

- fa me a a a th e far d ro d to C r cas .

e u ua th e u a omte d h a e e mor p nct l to ho r pp , d pr c ded W i a a e a . e f un e m at La n a us w th l rg p rty o d th V e t , a a in of me ef e men w h p rt k g so r r sh ts, hic proved ' ‘ ac e a e after ur e v ery c pt bl o toilsom ascent . In an u the a a a e of f m fif een wen h o r, c v lc d , ro t to t ty per n c n nue t e u e en in f1 om i e s o s , o ti d h ir ro t , joy g t m to he e n an in ie w Th e e time t most ch t g v s . s addl s for

adie We e f me i e an arm- ai h av1n a th e l s r or d l k ch r, g ’ a u en e a of ea e o narrow bo rd s sp d d by str ps l th r, t e e i e at a rest the fe t upon. W arr v d C ar cas b efore ’ c enterl n the wn f m the n and 12 o clo k , g to ro orth , n u n uin us and e e e ee p assi g thro gh lo g, r o , d s rt d str ts . T he extraordinary road w hich unite s C aracas

its s a- 1 ai Hum e e m with e po t, is s d by boldt to r s ble

o a a th e ea S t. e na thos e f S t. Goth rd nd gr t B r rd

' This traveller d etermined th e h eight of twelve i n it is f u a pomts . From his obs erv at o s o nd, th t La nta the the m un a n de fi vil a at Ve , ( on o t i , which passenge rs genera lly stop to res t’and tak e 1 e at an eleif atio 3888 ~ e t some refreshm nt, is n of f e A ROAD TO C RACAS . 8 1

sea f m i E l Gua avo a a e above th e ; ro th s to y , sm ll r

’ inn on La u br e th e ummi i s 62 fee ~ C m , ( s t, 9 t, giv in fee foi th e a te a i n w ic 15 nea g t l t r st t o , h h rly

the i e in on the a . m ua a h gh st po t ro d Fro El G y vo, th e wa for a l il e and a a f c e e i m un m . y h l , ov r d w th o ain roivth is ca e on accoum of its wmdin s t g , ll d , g ,

“ s e e e fi e a V La Vu ltas . e th e ra e r iew H r t v ll rst g ts ( of the i the e en is e n i for 1 4141 fee c ty , d sc t th l ap d 9 t th e Plaz a M a or ea S ua e w ic 1s 2 06 to j , (Gr t q l , ) h h 9 fee a e th e s e a ence m e a ua for 205 fee t bov ; th , or gr d l t,

th e Rio Gua i a ic u t u the a n to y , w h h r ns hro gh pl i , at t e f of th e ci and is t an e e a i n of 2 01 h oot ty , a l v t o 7

' fee th e ene a e e of the h i h va l e » of t, g r l l v l g j l y C a

races . th e s e a be ach to the vill age of Maiquitia ; the as cent e n be ms w an e xt1 e mel e e i e of th g ith y st p r dg rocks, a a i n ca e f m the ff a in p assing by st t o , ll d ro su oc t g

ea 1 efiected thew a of c Tor r e ue ada h t by lls ro k , Q m , to Cur ucuti h ere th e ascent i s some w h at l ess labo i n the S alto ‘ e a a a m c ed - n a r o s to , (l p , ( ch s ross o a i e e ed b a nd as far as dr wbr dge, d f nd y

a is m re a u t E Gua a o a n Ven a . L L t It o br p to g/v , d

‘ the l ittle b attery [La at w hic h (Humboldt w as ma e i ne a ua of a i l e a nd de d pr so r by g rd rt l ry, am e t of . a a o T e m ime for w an , . he a t d so t , p ssp rt , ro d th en becomes more l e vel as y ou thread the incessant

«win in ca e Lets Vueltas af e w ic the d e d gs ll d , t r h h

cen e in a the a e in w hich .th e c s t b g s tow rds v ll y , ity

an . O win to the a u ne of the i e of the st ds g br pt ss (s d mountam o r f hich the a m e i ha - een ve w ro d is ad , t s b ' 32 NOTES ON COLOMBIA .

a a e a it in a a ne Impr ctic bl to c rry str ight li , in any T he e e a . u n n ef e a on p rt t r i gs , th r or , to ccommod ate

“ th e u e u face of the un an a it to r gg d s r gro d, d m k e th e a en e a u are in e an sc t l ss l borio s , c ss t, short, a nd in e e e i e n a el aff in a v ry possibl d r ctio , r r y ord g Vi ew of the road for more th an thirty or forty feet T he a e a e i a b e in advance . v r g w dth m y e tw lve fee but no mean un f m me ime ex t, it is by s i or , so t s

e n en at e in e . t ndi g to tw ty, oth rs dim ishing to ight a mi a we a e a e fl at and It is d r bly ll p v d, with l rg u e ne s n a e the en e and ro nd d sto s, lopi g littl to c tr , n e a ua a al ns t th e un e m n n e tir ly cross, to g rd g d r i i g

of the ain . T h e e r1s e er endicul arl and r s sid s , p p y,

‘ e of h e and n u a e l a in w ar sc istos rock i d r t d c y, hich as een un e en n h e a ea th e road h b s k, pr s ti g t pp rance f ‘ aved en th e w a e n for th e ea e o a p tr ch , lls b i g, gr t r

' ’ f the a mu h i e an a man ea as p art o w y, c h gh r th s h d

'

h e u n mu e. T e e are man oints sits po his l h r y p , e e w e e h e a eme in f m the e how v r, h r t ro d , rg g ro bow ls e e t e fine f the un a n n e . h o mo t i , pr s ts h st vi ws T e ime is a f m La V en a most s ubl th t ro t , w hich 1s th us d escribed by Humboldt La V enta already e nj oys some celebrity in E u e an in ni e S a e for th u Of rop d th e U t d t t s , e b ea ty its t e in ee w e e ene . n th u sc ry This spo do s , d d , h clo ds mi e en a ma n fi en iew Of the s ea an p er t, pr s t g i c t v , d e nei a t You i e an z n th ghbouring co s s . d scov r hori o

of m e a e - t a ue a u th e w or th n tw nty wo le g s r di s , hite a nd barren shore reflects a d azzling mass of light ou see at u e a anc the a e of y yo r f et C pe Bl o, vill g uitia wi its a ee La a a and M aiq , th coco tr s, Gu yr ,

’ 3i s T C oLO MBl A . , NO ES ON

a its un afe a and hi s u f Ghayr , s ro d gh r , th e bar ! rennes s of t he country should of themselves de =

‘

h . A i e to th e wa of La ua ter im l ttl west rd G yra, th e small bay of Catia: furnish es excelle nt anchor a e for i f m w ic the uebrada a ne g sh ps, ro h h Q (r vi )

de Te e b w c the . a e is u se a e p , y hi h v ll y s ppo d to h v been drained,as ce nds to the table l and of C aracas . e d a a a w h a t . . i u e ake en rate By th s ro t , Dr p to C r c s it a f l o n e the wn w h nd u f men in a d sa ck d to , ith

' out enco untering a ny opposition ; the tr0 0 ps dis

' patch ed to dispute his a dvance h aving proceed ed the ina u e un e the e ua n at h e by or d ry ro t , d r p rs sio th could re ach th e c apital by no oth er ave nue .

' I t is in this directio n th ata w agon road, was com menced about twenty years s1nce ; but some difficul ies wi t e u e n th S uca t th h contractors s sp d e d e w ork . ceeding e vents h a v e e ngross ed the attention of the enter ri m a of the mmuni too mu al w p s g p rt co ty ch , to lo e m e u e e en i a m emen th to pros c t so xt s ve n i prov t, l n o n th e in u n e of en a e i the ppositio to fl e c thos e g g d n . e en m e of a a n a of oles pr s t od tr nsport tio by me ns m , w edd ed by interest and prej udice to the good Olden

Although the direct distance fro m the port to the

a i a not m e an six ei ht t mil es th e c p t l is or , th or g , u ne is from five s1x u a e n in d jo r y to ho rs sc d g, an f1 om ee f u e e n in for mu e a in thr to o r d sc d g, l s c rry g two uin a 2 n t e u ma q t ls , about 50 pou ds, h c sto ry l a for whi the m e tee recel v e o d ; ch, ul r es on dollar and a a ffor i a d n a et 0 ' u n o e 1 for r u1 n . h l go ng p, doll 1n

S u e i e a and u en e ~ bj ct to th s d l y, b rd ed with this x ’ ‘ t ROA D O A RA c A s TO .

‘ I pens e; all the prod uce o f the fruitful v all ey of C a - aca u th e s ea for e m a a i r s is bro ght to b rk ton, and ‘ the mm i ie of u e eac the ' c a co od t s E rop r h pital . Ow in th e na w ne of the a a n g to rro ss ro d , d the number of mal es e mploy e d in the tra nsport ofgoods to and ’ ‘ fro it h as b een f un nece a to , o d ss ry, es tabl is h three d ays in th e w eek for going up, and the al ternate; nes for e u nin in r o r t r g, o der to avoid e mbarrass fue n e a and in u s the mu ts , d l ys , j rie to les , wh ich w u e w i e m en tabl a e » o ld , oth r s , y t k pl ace; For, al though th e ave rage width of the road may be twel ve

“ fee e e. are an a w t, th r m y str its hich do not exce ed a f a t ea a s a e a e uffi ie h l th br dth, p c b r ly s c nt for two

a u e e , lo ded m l s to p ass . As th s e anl mal s are he ed

‘ ' e en f wa in e of l ssly driv or rd, h rds from five to e m e t a a t nty, or or , by he go ds nd shouts of th e f

‘ mu e ee the e a e ea f e u n ac ul re l t rs , ov rlo d d b sts r q e tly g u h x a m me n um in th e ee e a e r s c o t , st p r p ss s , that th ey

' a e e to un e f rwa d s ta erl n f r oblig d bl d r o r , gg g rom e i e e e e ei e ui i ium as the sid to s d to pr s rv th r q l br , ,

- ill - s ecure d lo ad s w erve s from its true p01se ; and l un a e h ow are utter y bl , ( e e the c u e of the a a eru ns s rv o rt sy , ro d , ) to void ov t r nen ma en un e n mg the oppo ts they y co t r, toili g up ‘ e as en a ea i m un in the c the ste p c t; or, t l st, d s o t g pa ks

“ ’

ne the u e? n ac . W oe of o or both, by r d co t t to the unf una e W who a Su en tu n 1 1 th ort t ight, , by dd r 1 e r a fi m e f in the mi of a e o d , nds hi s l dst h rd, laden wi h i e fa ts me h e uall fl i l n t h d s, ggo , or so ot er q y y e di g ‘ u ance un e s h e h as h ad the e au to s bst , l s pr c tion pro

“ i e him e th cuisses nor e s e i v d s lf wi , poss s s d exter ty ON NOT E S C OLOMBIA .

“ ’ u to thrOw o e e a th e mu e e no gh , n or both l gs cross l s e n en h e is not e e m f m th e incon mane . Ev th , x pt ro

“ venience o f h aving hls s addl e stripp ed from under

e a is m e e ie the irre e him, or, p rh ps , co p ll d to y ld to e a ie h im nwar for s istibl e tid w hich c rr s o d, some

e in a c i n i e ha of his u e . distanc , dire t o oppos t to t t ro t n La Cumbr e a a min iew of After passi g , ch r g v e en e i mme ia e at the f of th e th e city is pr s t d , d t ly oot ’ a nea two h u a n fee e w as w e l mount in, rly t o s d t b lo , l ian a e m w i it an s ur as of the l ux ur t v ll y h ch st ds, on all i e m un ains a er e round ed s d s by o t , tr v s d by f ma i e emin ‘wi th e f ui ee o ur s ll r v rs , te g th r ts, tr s , u O f a ica c ima e u in th e and shr bs trop l l t , flo rish g by

' s ide o f and aflordin a ~ n a wi e Of , g rich co tr st th , thos e z ne th e te mp erat o s . T h e a ea a nce f e ci a h e in hi - r o a pp l th ty, ppro c d t s d i ec i n is of a c nf e ma O f ui n r t o , th at o us d ss b ldi gs

n u e of e red a e a . u e en co str ct d som m t ri l As yo d sc d , ' the direction of th e streets b ecomes app arent ; th e hous e s and public buil dl ngs are more distinguish able ; the colour ch anges as the w hite w ash e d w alls e en e m e e w ow and itis now e cei ve pr s t th s lv s to , p r d, th at th e red app earance Was Owing to the tiled roofs e ei e en e t e e e w en fi ie alon b ng pr s t d to h y , h rst v we d It d l orabl e to fi d a a from the h eight . is ep n th t bout

~ fift t it i in row e e are one h of h e c y is st ll s . Th s chiefly in the most el evated p arts of the site upon i ’ w ic th e wn is buil t nea e and in fac on h h to , r st to, t , h e u In i a e W ch t of t n a n. u sp r h e mou t i th s q rt r, hi uffe e m e e i e h as een ne but s r d ost s v rely, l ttl b do to en um e th e ee s of th e 1 ubbish w h h as dis c b r str t , , hic EARTHQUAKES or Q A RA C A S . 37

been throw n ' within th e crack ed and tottering walls of the roofless b uildings

‘ T h e earthquakes exp erienced in ‘ this p art O f the ic h a e een rec e bx glob e, w h h v b ord d , tend through o a t o n u ie i a p eriod f ne rly w ce t r s . V brations of va rions d egrees of inte nsity w erefelt in d 1 66 O ne m e‘ e e c u e o an 7 . or s v re o c rr d n th e 2 1 s t ’ of O c e 1 8 at n c at ni in tob r, 77 , o e o lock ght ; com

mem a i n of w i n c u na rell l o or t o h ch, o t r l g ous proces ' n w e e n u e at La ua a and C a ac sio s r i stit t d G yr r as . In 1796 th ere w as an eruptio n of a volcano of Gua

‘ dal u e and in 1 umana and Ri o p , 797 C obamba were “ u in th e ea 180 — — d estroye d . D r g y 0 1 2 ere ( rs , th w e e c h a of the er oth r sho ks , t t l atter year be

e i en . In 18 11 a e ing v ry v ol t , C racas xp erience d a more viol ent shock th an a ny w hich h ad pre e ' it w i ani e the e ce d d , h ch b sh d hop s of s ecurity

t nh a i a en e aine f un e on t . h e I b t nts t rt d , o d d he na

‘ ture of the formations and the h eight of th eir val , m 181 1 to 1813 th e w e e countr . f l y . Fro , hol y, rom a a th e a e of the O i and f C ar c s to v ll y h o, ro m the a an o th e mo s W e st I ndi . Isl ds t untal n of New

1 ena a was the ea e of nea1 - s 1multa neous Gr d , th tr , ly he n entuof vibrations . T comme cem thi s p eriod was a b the a ea ance on the 30th of Janu m rked y pp r , ary,

1811 0 th e an S a ina ea S t. ae o e , 1: Isl d br , n r Mich l, n i e and of t e ea ua e of t e of th e Azor s , h rthq k s h Island e m Ma 811 t. in en w i a f 1 i t e S V c t, h ch l st d ro y , t ll h s ame month in th e s uccee di ng y ea T he shock i mmediat ely prece ding th at by w hich

~ the w as es e was in the on Of De n , m city d troy d, th , 3 8 B NOTES ON COLOM IA .

' cember 1811 . T e Caracama s at th e erl o of , h n , p d r

' the ea ca a e w e e i uorant of th e ea gr t t stroph , r g rth t a O f. h ua e e n S t. in en a s w e as of q k s Isl d V c t, ll th e of the th and 8 h o e ua shocks 7 t f F br ry, which k ept the b asin of the Mississippi m a con» tinual a e of a st t oscill tio n. five m n e i u the 26th of Ma For o ths pr v o s to rch, 812 th e in e of ene e h a 1 , prov c V zu l a d s uffered ex tre mel f m u N ot a of ain h ad fal y ro dro ght” drop r _ l en u n a me wi in n ne ea ue of Ca d ri g th t ti , th i ty l g s a T he w ea e of at da w as e e r cas . th r th y oppr ssiv ly

the a1r a m a nd u es . w as th e a hot, , c l clo dl s It l st i ‘ f a in l ent »and eat ti n f th e n a Th ursd y , a gr por o o i h e e e e in the bitants w r coll ct d ch urch es . At 7 mi

e a 41 P . . the fi a e unt s p st M rst shock w s p rceived, i a e five ec n a w as w h ch l st d or six s o ds , nd s uffi tl the c e It cien ystrong to sh ake hurch b lls . was followe d immediately by anoth er,w hich continue d

‘ ‘ ten we e ec n and seemed ‘ to a i a t or t lv s o ds, g t te he

‘ n e a i ui T an e as grou d lik l q d . he d g r w now s up e be a e e a e e pos d to p ss d, w h n horribl s ubt rranean , un e em n th de un e but so d , r s bli g e lou st th d r, more n e w as ea : un w as f we prolo g d , h rd this so d ollo d by a e en i u a m e en of ee four ' conds p rp d c l r ov m t thr or s e ,

' “ uc ee e a i m n u and s c d d by vibr t ons fro orth to so th ,

f m ea w of n e u a i n . T he w ard ro st to est, lo g r d r t o pp m emen an a n e i e n w e e ov t, d th t i opposit d r ctio s , r

’ 1rres1s tible ; nine - te nths Of the city were instantly

' ‘ e u e a a ee four th ow r d c d to m ss of rums . Thr or

‘ a e n e in th e c u e f m a s nd p rso s , ass e mbl d h rch s to or

‘ ~ ss n t e a n of th e" au e proce io , perished by h f lli g v lt d U K OF A EARTHQ A ES CARAC S .

’

fs . A re men un e a m at the a roo gi t, d r r s barr ck S an

a ea om In the ce em n e w . C rlos, r dy to j r o i s , as b urie d n t a l O f a fine e ifi e u d er h e w ls th t d c . Between mne and ten u an e s n w e e in ant i tho s d p r o s r st ly k lled , and th e num e of w un e who i d in e b r o d d, d e on or two

‘ m n for w an Of e a en an e and nourl sh u o ths , t prop r tt d c ,

men was e ea . mas s of t, v ry gr t A rubbish only s ix fee i was all t a rema ned f e t h gh , h t i o th Trinity and a a a two fine h u e w i e Alt Gr ti , c rch s , h ch ros to an e e a f o e e a fif ee h l v tion o n h undr d nd ty f t . T e eathe a u te en m u u e e a n dr l, s ppor d by or o s b ttr ss s, rem i ed s an n t di g . T he effects of this shock w ere experl enced as far a e a and a o th a s M rid Bogot , n e n of th e ‘ b ks

a a ena and the S ie a of S a n a- Ma a man M gd l , rr t rt , y of the inte rvening to wns b eing eith er totally or a e e The nu b O parti lly d stroy d . m er f lives lost in the n e of V e nezue a a ne was e provi c l lo , stimated at Th e vibratio ns ceased in fifteen or ei ghteen h u but on the 28th e mmen e wi o rs ; , they r co c d th u u e anean n01ses and fif een e e lo d s bt rr , t shocks w r f e uen fe i n a da r q tly lt y . O n the 5th of A a nea as s on as pril, shock rly tr g a w e e th e was e e ie nce th t hich d stroy d city, xp r d ; the ground for several hours co ntinued to h ave an n u a m emen d mmen e mas e ofr u d l tory ov t, an i s s s ocks

‘ in i a ea w ere detached from the mounta s . Th s pp rs to h ave been the l ast throe ; the soil now became fi e a th e fea f th in a i an we e e in x d, nd rs o e h b t ts r b g nin u e e on the 30th of i t e r g to s bsid , w h n, Apr l , h i terrors w ere awakened by a lo ud s ubterranean NOTES O N COLOMBIA

‘ “ n01se which was una c m anie we e b , c o p d , ho v r, y any e e i e m emen of the ea th p rc pt bl ov t r . This was the

‘ ’ ’ d ate of th e great eruption Of the Isl and of S t; V in cent . S ince this time, slight tremblings h ave frequently

' bee fe but a i h as so ccustomed th e e n lt ; , h b t a p ople

‘ to e e u en e a no - a a e is th ir r c rr c , th t l rm app ars to ex t on th e s ubj ect ; on the contrary,they are regard ed with s atisfaction as the prognostic Of a wet and fruitful ‘ a s e son. sc en ifi E ui o ean e n in a a a h as A i t c p , r sidi g C r c s , n en e a mac ine mean of w i the i i v t d h , by s h ch sl ght a ion f t e est vib o h e a ar i i . e e r t s rth e nd cated Th s .

‘ are a e him to take' ace ai but e are st t d by pl d ly, th y

en e as not be e ce i th e e n e . so g tl , to p r pt ble to s s s i unde1 s tood a th e e i e l n re aratl on It s , th t r g st r p p , e e i a i n is e ine for th e s c utiniz of th s v br t o s , d st d r e e of th e n de u w e dei i ng y Baro H mboldt, to hos uctions foun e on the m a is n of mu i ie d , d d co p r o lt pl d, d scrl minatin an a u a e e a n th e W i g, d cc r t Obs rv tio s , orld a e in e i s so l rg ly d ebt d . H umboldt conclud es his rel ation of th e m e [ is ry u e the ear ua e w th e f w n prod c d by thq k , ith ollo i g grateful testimony l n favour of our country and its gov ernment e l e de an e ca ami il est ux Apr s récit t t d l tés, do de re poser s on 1mag1nation par des s ouVemrs con ’ s an L a l a an e ol s . ors qu on appritaux Et ts Unis gr d a a e d a a a l o n e as s emble a c t stroph e C r c s , Co gr s, ’ W a in n nimemen l env01 de in sh gto , décréta una t, c q u o e e V enezue a navires ch arges de farines a x c t s d l ,

1 1 — — — ' ‘ — -1 1 111: HO ST V ISITS R OSARIO PRIE S I S PARTY or PLE A ’ — — SIMo s DA Y — B LL— DINNE ARTY Irf SURE ST . N A R r ' — J - - ND N corr s ii S C RIPTION S MO RNING RIDE MR . BLA I

PLANTATION .

ct r d W as e en e m n n the O obe 22 . pr s t d this or i g to ' ‘ Intende nt Gene ral S oubl e tte at his co uncil ch am in the ne ia i n for th e u a e of th e h er, d ur g got t o p rch s i e e . T h e e ne a ea e on an e e a e a corv tt G r l, s t d l v t d ch r a e at a a e c e e wi a e as a en of st t , t bl ov r d th p p rs , w tt d d e e a ie a nd n e e e and un e e by s cr t r s i t rpr t rs , surro d d ‘ il ia t mi i a a His fi u o by a br l n l t ry st ff. g re 1s v ery c m manding ; his olive ov al face quite prepos s es smg, nd mu s et off eau ifu a mu a i a ch by b t l bl ck st ch os, so

e ne at not a in e a n ai in -a w ell d fi d , th s gl str ggli g h r ter the mme of e e e rupted sy try th ir curv s . A littl tuft

’ 1s a eft in th e en e of the un e l i an e ls o l c tr d r p, d giv s n a ex re ss 1 the fa i a n ori e t l p on to ce . H s d e meanour w as at once courteo us and dignified n retnr n m af e the au i e as I m g ho e t r d enc , I w ac costed sh arply by a s entinel in attendance on the

w h o e e n a ance w a me wi h is Host, v dv d to rds , th a ne cha e for n t unco erl n m ea on b yo t rg d, o v g y h d, a in a u c f m w th um e a p ss g ch r h door, ro hich e br ll ,

u e a e the as a u i ue . a s d to sh d Host, w bo t to ss I p peare d not to be aw are th at I was the p erson ad e e an u recel vm an in dr ss d, d p ass ed on witho t g y THE HOST . 4 3

u . f e f w n me me aces th e sol dl er j ry A t r ollo i g so p , , , fin n ai no a en i n his cifera ion re di g I p d tt t o ,to vo t s , u ne his s w e arl n ‘ i e a e as 111 t r d to post, g l k troop r, u un at m w an of e e en e for th e s d ty bo d, y t r v r c ym M a e bols of his holy religion. y app r nt disrespect w as caus ed through inadvertence ; at first I did not

s ee the um re a and b sides . I nei e new th e b ll ; , e , th r k u e for w i it w as e i ne nor m d u ie p rpos h ch d s g d, y t s ' tow ards it. l he circumstance w as calcul ated to e i e me i a i n a nd m i a e of m n xc t so irr t t o , th s st t i d, I ame the u i n a it w as a u dis c to concl s o , th t d ty to , counte nance ceremonies d erogatory to a rational e in e eme inconvenl ent a nd uc as we e at b g, xtr ly , s h r ‘ te mpted to be enforced by th e b ayonets of a bigotted and d eprav ed soldiery ; and neve r after did I pay th e ea a e i n em fu e a a i l st tt nt o to th , rth r th n by vo d in th e w ene e u be ne g Host, h v r it co ld do without inConvenience As this o utward conte mpt for th e prej udices of ’ th e e e w s a en e w i me i a nd p opl a , tt d d th so r sk, c a u a e a u n me ei ill - wi w en lc l t d to dr w po th r ll, h I

' w a n an ee of ei ffi e it: s so co st tly in n d th r good o c s, w as e a una i in one in m i ua i n , p rh ps, dv sed y s t t o , whos e solitary example coul d effect nothing: But

1 i I am still of opinion th at our p ublic funct onaries, e i in i n a i i u enu u r s d g C thol c co untr e s , sho ld str o sly

e i n en a m n ei i s a ' r s st a y cro ch ents upo th r r ght , s it re a rel i l o s o l nl n 1 on a c un of the g rds g u p o s, both c o t e a a n i e and w h a V ew in d gr d tio it mpli s, it i to tro duce a more tolerant feeling Th at this may be

ne t f a ac nd cone do , by he example of men o ch r ter a 441 NOTES ON COLOMBIA .

3 a e e me h u n n e sideration, I h v b co t oro ghly co vi c d, e s a n . T he n uen e of f e n by after obs erv tio . i fl c or ig r in C aracas is a lready very discernible ; th at city is h alf a century in advance of th e more s eclud ed and e a ita m wh the influenée of l ess frequent d c p l , ich

the priests h as und ergone but little diminution.

‘ i me s ts m un r d. Pa Vl 1 w 00t0be . 23 d so ith y yo g a nian f e and fe a en e to s ee Car ca ri nd, llow p ss g r, his a ua n an e f m w m h e h ad een e a a ed cq i t c s , “ ro ho b s p r t a n the h u e of ene al some y ears ; mo g oth ers , to o s G r wh ose daughter Conchita h ad resided some i a e ia whi e h er fa e h d a en years at Ph l d lph , th r th r a t k u w e n i en f m his c un i i al ref ge, "h dr v ro o try by pol t c e e n ; S he e a i e n i w a m v ts spok l ttl E gl sh , ith , ost b ewitching accent ; I w as extremely amus ed with a in e c i n me man w at h er Vi v city d s r bi g to so co p y, h a e n u in h e e i e e a oa T h e s h e h d s e d r g r r s d nc br d . ass ertion that s h e h ad s een a hous e three storl es

i ui of c in a few w ee a ea e " h gh , b lt bri k ks, pp r d to stagger th e b elief of p ersons,in the h abit of con= rin the ui in of a u e of e en one s ide g b ld g ho s v story, f But w e he as th e w ork o years . h n s spok e of the

ace of a i e e m n - s urf r v r b co i g solid , and wood carts d r1v1n e it as if u n a i e e ene g ov r , po br dg , th ir polit ss

” ga ve way i n th e wish to evince th at they could not b ecome the d upes of wh at th ey conceivedto be h er a fu im i pl y l posit on. ~ Had some convers ation to - day w ith th e English ’ officers of Gener al S oublette and General Paez s a f and a e e man st f , with Colonel r al G r sol

’ e a u - et a di r, bo t five feet high , thick s , with bro d 110 3 111116. 415

u e and seame wi eat ofiicer com sho ld rs, d th s s ; this t a a T e a mands a b attalion on duty a C rac s . h y ll a ea to a e een i a in e ” a e au e pp r h v b d s ppo t d, prob bly b c s e ec a i n h ad een i th ir exp t t o s b too h ghly wrought . e a e a o u off ffice of t Th y st t d , th t t orty o rs he English e i n n five h ad e a e the a a e l g o , o ly sc p d r v g s of w ar a t a nd h e clim te .

S in e m arrl val in a a a a e een en e -a c y C r c s , I h v b t r tained e very night by a religious ceremony called Ro ar io La n e s . n e e a e on e are a thor s , l v t d pol s, c rri d in front of the procession by ragge d negro b oys ; a man be rl n a a e and an t e r an en i n a g l rg cross, o h s g e e en in the vir l n are fol ow e e a r pr s t g g , l d by pri sts , an of fiddl ers and e in umen a mu ician b d oth r str t l s s, an e Th e ie a d a i an d some mal singers . pr sts n ss st ts h an me La in en en e th e mu i in c t so t s t c s, sic str k g in a co l ection is ta en o e at interv ls . A l k up n th s e oc casions ; th e p ersons before w hos e hous es the pro cession stop s being more especially exp ected to con ’ T l -s i u e . h e mu 1c 1s tol erabl ood and e e tr b t s y g , th c re mew T e e aries re at mony so h at imposing . h s p t a

’ en e a of ie e nf e e ec t d d by guard sold rs to orc r sp t, o ca na e off ei mu e or h wh oc sio lly fir th r sk ts , t row

ui a e o r ma e i n th e n . sq bs , cr ck rs , s ll rock ts to a i October 24 th W i e a m a visi t m n n , . h l p y g th s or i g at a u e i the P aza and i enin ome mu ho s n l , l st g to s s ic on th e ian f m th e a e w e we e a e p o ro l dl s , r c ll d to th e w n w witness th e execu i n of an n ian i do s to ‘ t o I d for mu e T h e u i w as ie a and rd r . c lpr t t d to post, h h e c T . e e n e i e s ot by a military guard . x utio xc t d but little Th ere w ere not more than O N NOTES COLOMBIA .

h ee un ed e n e e n n i a t r h dr p rso s pr s t, pri c p lly women, w hich circ umstance may be accounted for by the great disproportion of the s exes at C aracas ; it be ing e stimated th at th e re are four or five women to e an on m . This disproportion is attrib uted to the ’ e m n w e ext r inati g ar. Th re h a ve been six or s even e e u i w i in th e a cu i x c t ons th l st h alf y ear . All lpr ts i in the n en enc are en me for ia i w th i t d y s t ho tr l ; th s, besid e th e ha rdship of dragging a man from the a e in w i h e is n w n m aine o for th e pl c h ch k o , is co pl d f it ca i n d el ay oc s o s . My next visit this morning w as at Don Fran cis co This gentleman recel ved me w ith th e greatest politene ss ; my yo ung friend appeared e a ea fa u i e wi him was in u e to b gr t vo r t th . I trod c d his fami his au er ite a a e w to ly ; d ght , qu l rg gro n bman but w th e manne and al et of a up w , ith rs g y

' but i een ea a h er fa e in c hild; was th rt y rs old, s th r

e me as an e u e for h er a ucher ze . S en form d , xc s g or ame e an ffe f m in is u e and G made m o r o roo s h ho s ,

‘ w I n a in treated me ith th e warmest cordiality . t k g

a e h e ma e us e of an e e e e u e w h l e v , d xpr ssiv g st r hic en new me a of e n m an w as th to , th t pr ssi g y h d a al nst his ea as if in a e a n of the in e i g h rt, tt st tio s c r ty of his professions . e e a m ia October 2 6th Introd uced to s v r l Colo b ns . ’ his ec e a ne at F. s wi ne Di d Dr . th Colo l s r t ry,

and a m em e of con res s ‘ on h is w a a b r g , , y to Bogot , from w hom w e d erived some us eful informatio n

in ne . f e inne a touch g our intend e d jour y A t r d r,

com an of i a n a e th e. on ma p y nf try p ss d door, its rch 1 PRIESTS . 17

V a en a The ffice w e e m un e th e to l ci . o rs r o t d , sol ie a efo e e ce a few wh o w e e 1 ovided d rs b r ot d , x pt r p w r a T h e i of an a ca e a atcrs . th a sort s d ls , ll d p g mu i c n i in of um an fi es a d s c w as good , o s st g dr s d f , n t wo or three b ugles . S in e m u n at a a a a e een t c y sojo r C r c s , I h v b s ruck with the uniformly polite a nd courteous beh avio ur of th e ie w o e e uffe ou a wi pr sts , h n v r s r y to p ss thout em W e e i h as a a r oving their h ats . h th r th s lw ys been e i ac e w e er e en e en a e th r pr tic , or h th r c t v ts h v co nvinced th e m of the necessity of conciliating pub l ic i t w t i i i n n no n . Bu op io , I do k o this c v l ty IS e en e uc a a e n h umi i an xt d d with so m h pp r t l ty, d such a ene en mi e a a e f e uen ee b vol t s l , th t I h v r q tly b n v exed at mys elf for inadvertently p ermitting th es e dignifie d eccl esi astics to be b eforeh and with me in this token of politeness . O n e u n n f m M a am i e e nin r t r i g ro d th s v g, w as em a a e the hen viva of a e I b rr ss d by w s ntinel . e e a - an w e Colombiano w e It is n c ss ry to s r , h n you are e mi a e e entine are e p r tted to p ss . Th s s ls post d ’ from small guards stationed a t the intend ent e ua te and in iffe en a of th e of wh q r rs, d r t p rts city ; ich th ey constitute the police . Oct er 2 th f e inne e Gene a ob 7 . A t r d r visit d r l a wi a am her au e est te, th M d d ght r

n i a and ei ten en e men and a ie on Co ch t , ght or g tl l d s

e ac w as a e i fu i e of a u hors b k . This d l ght l r d bo t ’ ee e T h e w e a t w as a mi a thr l agues . hol p r y d r bly m un e me of th e en e men on as ea u i o t d, so g tl b t ful a T h e nd spirited hors es as I h ave ever s een. O NOTES N COLOMBIA »

a u na w as we = ro d, tho gh rro , w ll paved for s ome dis

n e in th e un . ta c to co try It w as a l ovely afternoon. we a an e the fine e e a n os e As dv c d , st, v r v ryi g pr p cts op ene d to our n ew . T he beautiful l uxurl ant fo ‘ ia e th e a m f a an e of th e a e f e l g ; b l y r gr c ir, p r um d by h edges of rose bush es w hich skirte d th e road ; th e e e i e of a i i ll o the c m an — all con x rc s br sk g p ; o p y, S i e en e one of the m a eea e aun p r d to, r d r this ost gr bl j ts e n f e a n me e men s I e ver joyed . A t r t ki g so refr sh t a am W” w a a u m u e f w with M d C , e g l o nt d to ollo

‘ u h th e d ma n w i n h er thro g o i , h ch s h e sup erinte d s durin the a en e ofthe ene a wi the a m and g ‘ bs c G r l th r y, e m nin ef e e fa h i i i s e a . S e n v s t v ry or g b or br k st . po t '

l~ h er w e a den an - t ed out flo r g r , d rose bush es ; he n i n of ffee e e e pla tat o s co , sh lt r d by th eir wide g ” n in a e- ee the acefu l antains bra ch g sh d tr s ; g r l p , teeming with clusters of delicious fruit ; the thriv

- ane and f a an ran e f ing s ugar c r gr t o g grove s . A ter an hour or tw o sp ent in threading th e mazes of e art a a e our a i l e e this hly p r dis , p rty , h gh y d light d, e u ne to w n w i e f un i u ina e i r t r d to , h ch th y o d ll m t d n ’ ur of a it e n the eve o S t. S m n h ono Boliv r, b i g f i o s,

‘ is ir - da : w e e a un the P aza i h b th y rod ro d l , wh ch pres ented a » v ery brilliant appearance! Upon a a e e e e for the u e a an of mu i ac st g , r ct d p rpos , b d s c, o m an e a s te torl an i n e w ho e e a e in c p i d n S g r, c l br t d, me w en e e th l or of his e so t ty or thirty v rs s, q y h ro, e i a of fire each vers e ending with his nam . A d spl y a n Works amus ed the crowd till l te in the eveni g . ’ October 28th S S imon s Da . T he e e m n , t. y c r o ies of th e day commenced With a procession of the civil

O N NOTES COLOMBIA . p ended from th e tops of the windows and extend s a eme i ng to the p v nt . In the evenmg a splendid b all w as given in

n t e oc as 10 h e m e e an 1 ho our of h c n. T roo s w r h d s omel e a e the a nin a e i e i ian y d cor t d, djoi g g ll r s, br ll tly ’ l e h varl e ate am and th e ua e u t ight d wit g d l ps, sq r co r

a w as fi e w u e a efu are or p tio ll d ith , shr bb ry, t st lly

an e f min a e i fu mena e . T h e s u r g d, or g d l ght l pro d p er w as u T h e mu i u e as p v ery s umpt ous . s c str ck m

e u a 1 1 its e as we as the danc1n . T he p c li r 1 styl , ll g

u e a e e m e e as f n a En p co pl s rrang th s lv s, i to d a ce n g i - th e m e en u n an l sh contra d ance . As ov m ts are po un ie in i e e e is no u i n no y ld g t l d floor, th r j mp g, enc am i n en a f th e ime in h air Fr h b tio to sp d h l t t e , 0 11 Y ank ee strife to dance th e stronges t; on th e con /

trar e use all en . Th e m e men 1ns tea y, th y g tly ov ts , d of e n d e a a e e e b i g up an down, lik p p r toy b tw en two e e i a i a e a — the ime ein l ctr c l d sks , is l t r l t b g a n t e r e me k ept by a slight scr pe upo h g itty p av nt . e e an e a ea n a e a an e and Th s d c s pp r i tric t to str g r, ffi u on a un of th w al tzm m e co di c lt, cco t e g a v ry n

ne a e n u e at e e u n. T he ar fi d sp c , i trod c d v ry t r ms h a e m e m me h an th e fee and ar bra v or e ploy nt t t, e n dish e d by th e fair C olomb i ans w ith much skill and ” t t 1 w are grace . Th eir wis 1ngs and t inings so in tima e a e ui e om e f- mman not be t , th t it r q r s s e s l co d to ’ f i ene f m one s r et . In the u e of r ght d ro p rop i y a co rs th e e vening th e mirth of th e comp any w as excited ' " b a a ea in th e room s obbin b e au e h er y l dy l v g , \ g c s h usb and h ad b een too d evoted in his attentio ns to n u n an on some oth er fair one; A feeli g th s show , d BALL .

s u an occas1on mu n ee a e been uncona , ch , st i d d h v _ trol abl e i e h er m ince e but m re ar . I p ti d ost s r ly, o p ticularl h er au e who f e y d ght r, ollow d h er mother e cov re d with confusion. General S oublette sat i n state at th e h ead of th e r m in w a efu n iffe ence and ee oo , loll g ith gr c l i d r , s m ed n em a e the amu ements of his u e to co t pl t s s bj cts ,

' wi con es en n m e ia e th d c ding complace cy . I m d t ly

e nd him ea e u n a e t o b hi , s t d po n elev at d bench, w b eautiful sisters, whoseplump ch eeks and s mooth , brow s h ad never b een distorte d by th e fati gue of t u amu e the m n b a bf ho ght, s d co p a y y display phi l os o hical in iffe en e i n ee in i th e m p d r c , sl p g w th ost un n e u e e eni u in th e w e f the i t rr pt d s r ty, d r g hol o n i e and of a T h e o s b ustle crow d ed assembly . sl eeping beauties were the a dmiration of the room ; ne e ef e w en u e s a h ad e a t v r b or , I ill v t r to y , th y a e mu a en i h e e n of th e tr ct d so ch tt t on. T gov r or city w as p ointe d out to me ; it w as s aid th at h e h ad

' lived four years under ground to av01d th e purs uits of h is enemies

th ea e evemn ; October 29th . V isited e th tr this g T he i i i n of th e b e are ma e w h an e d v s o s ox s, d it c s ’ e T sce ne r e res ents am w attled togeth r . he drop p s ts T he a ea e be f m the and angels . pl y app r d to ro ’

nead and w as mi e a en u e f rmed. IE , s r bly o gh p r o T 1“ !1 and ec e a October 3oth . Colo nel his [ s r t ry e a a a e enin af e nne or a l ft C r c s this v g, t r di r, f Bogot . J a a o his f ie n and e c e oine d th e c valc d e f r ds , s ort d ‘ ’ h im a u five mi e the a ue dcl bo t l s, to M rq s Toro s,

‘ fi W e emaine a u a f an u his rst stage . r d bo t h l ho r, 52 mor e s C ON OLOMBIA . t l ea e and en e u ne to to n i ook v , th r t r d w , by th e l ght nc u e of an u lo d d moon. r t i da Octobe S i s . Th s y employed in rambll ng u the e aminin u c e d e thro gh city , x g ch r h s an oth r d d c ui n an i n a in i i . p ubli b l i gs , p y g v s ts ine at a he a e v er i s t. i u N o e mb D d , w th t M rq s ’ el at his e h u e wi w e n d Toro, sist r s o s , th t ty or e i n thirty l adies a nd ge ntl men of C aracas . Th s e tertainment was very s umptuo us ; th e most delicate i and de ci u w ine f w e ea e in d sh es , li o s s , ollo d ch oth r

e n e s ucce s s 1on. T h e e an nea as nume dl ss s rv ts , rly , as the ue eeme en in e an rous g sts , s d b t, by c ss tly an in th e a e on aff in an uni of ch g g pl t s , ord g opport ty a e as e tasting e very dish . My pl t w ch anged tw lve f u ee n me f en ef e h ad a t ni or o rt ti s , O t b or I n Oppor u ty a i h e e i a it n ain e w as of t st ng t d l c cy co t ed . Th er a total abs ence of a ll formality ; th e ge ntl e men fre q uently ros e f1 om th eir s eats to attend to the w ants Of th e a e a e m on th e end of a f l dl s , or c rry th , ork,

e l ittl er c1V1l it 1s us ua l a d elicate mors l . This y l y re u ne i ind a d are n a i t r d n k , n forks s ee p ss ng in all

e ma b a n a e in e i dir ctio ns . As this y e tr sl t d to at ng our health e i a civil i a i n a to y , th re s obl g t o to t ste th e m e we e un ea an it ma be th ors l, ho v r pl s t y to e

a a e . L n a o a e a o p l t o g to sts , r r th r short p tri tic e e e e mu i n ue the a e a ea sp ch s , ar ch vog ; l di s pp r to in th e oa and uot unfre uentl e a s en i dr k t sts , l q y giv t men w ic e m an i ra t r t, h h is h ail d by the co p y w th p u ous a au ur e n in f a ppl s e . Afte r th e co s co sist g o p s

t r the m an 1th e w. an inin m y, co p y W dr to adjo g roo ,

Or wa e in t o Ores . In a few m n e lk d he c rrid i ut s, DINN E R PARTY . 53 he m a e n e e n in t y w ere su moned to s co d d s rt, co sist g of ice nfe i na e i u wee w ne and s, co ct o ry, d lic o s s t i s , m ch a p aigne. n ea 11 ec me exZ it T h e en eme O ed, but e g tl s y b o ” th ir ’gk gaiety a nd elevation app ear more th e res ults of a u an of i and n i u i na ivaci b oy cy . spir ts co st t t o l v ty, t a th effe of wine a d a e n in h n e cts , n h v oth g in th em

- e r a a . i u u e ith er b ut l or h rsh M rth , good h mo r d f w it a un a fu ne and a ie o . w as pl y l ss , s ll s bo d I much amuse d at a p art. of th e company e nd eavo ur in a un e n e man as a ec ean bib g t , yo g g tl , r r t

- ber . a i th e e far c rr ed jok s o , as to th rust h im u n the e et w en e all e q ite i to str , h th y return d

’ with inc eas ed i a i ei ea au r h l r ty to th r s ts , l ghing with unfei ne ee a tthe e e e mem e s e d g d gl xp ll d b r , Who p e i ly reinstate d hims elf in the good grace s of the com an w al owm a b m e HOW e i f p y by s l g u p r. d l ght ully does the ins pl ration of th e ge nero us grape affect th es e mercurial beings ! How much more amiable d a ea on e e a i n an t ei e o th ey pp r th s occ s o s , th h r m or e n nei u e ie u e e t north r ghbo rs, Whos org s prod c i her i u i wi w m in ea of aie r ot or st p dity ; th ho , st d g ty, each bumper but adds to the maudlin gravity of th e a as if ea e ma i uzz e en ea u e p rty, ch phl g t c g l r d vo r d } fence i m e f a un With di nit i n t n to h s l ro d / g y, propor io as he all a un i i ni ari di n los es cl im to it, t l d g ty d g i a in e e the a e in e t ry s k to eth r und r t bl , brutal ins n ' g s ibi it l y . f e a i n u in w c the a e d id A t r long s tti g, d r g hi h l di s not e e us t e a a e nde to the w i d aw d s rt , h p rty sc d th r in a th u t e a of the g room, or r ther e bo doir of h l dy “ ‘ 51h 1 O N com MBIA NOTES .

e e m e the i ta t e man n. e w a r e bed h sio H r , d ir d ch s t , e e a a e e ea and me fine an n l g ntly c rv d b dst d, so h gi gs

a e the fab1 ics of the u In a a . and l c , co ntry . this p rt ffee as a e u a a e a e ment co w pl c d pon round m rbl t bl , in th e cen e of the m at w i ea en eman tr roo , h ch ch g tl w as e e e toh e im e f af e a i Se ed xp ct d lp h s l , t r h v ng rv

" th e a e a e e e en a ane en l di s ; v ry xc ll t rr g m t, by w hich the interruption and Importunities of s er T h e an e e an the an are a i e . e v ts vo d d s rv ts , how v r, '

‘ a en e of em men c w e the - w a bs c ploy t, ro d d door ys, e me h eir mi e of a ne e and s e d y th s l s approb tion, ith r l ess pleas e d with th e music and wa ltzing w hich u e nor e ac w a in ex e i n ei s cceed d, l ss b k rd pr ss g th r

i an th e m an w in the . d el ght, th co p y ith room T h e reve nue of?Madam del Toro 1s estimate d at e u an a a u her e a e are tw nty tho s d doll rs , ltho gh st t s ’ i a i a e w n ei ten e a ab much d l p d t d, o i g to ght or y rs

e e n . s ence of th e family to w hich th y b lo g . Dr éfi é i s aw this a a few ea n e in one of F i l dy, y rs si c , the W e n ia a d In a s a e o f the m ah st I d isl n s , t t ost H r e e e s ject poverty . e nobl and xpressiv count ' a e i a a f a ie u e in n nc s m rk ed w ith the tr its o p t nt s ff r g . S h e emin me of a an ma n e en ef e r d ed R om tro , v b or had ea h r i o the e e e n e of h er I h rd e h story, r xc ll c a a e w i e b all in th e m eu ch r ct r, h ch is xtolled y , ost h us ias tic i e rece t married t a n . H r a e n l str s d ught r, y to the e e s n of a a ( etti e i s a m a m ld st o M d m B , ost ch r in w man a e em e th e infan i e g o . I sh ll l ong r m b r t l

“ a u ne s h e i en n ea u in pl yf l ss e xhib ted , w h , e d vo r g to wa tz wi h er s a an e e n eman embar l th hu b nd, oth r g tl ra ss ed h er m emen b insis tin on Wa z n in ov ts, y gfl lt i g Ins cRIPT IONs. 5 5

i Nor can ea i f et a m e fe mo= tr o . I s ly [org th t ost p r ct ” de e u not ce in th e n ea La l of b a ty , ex pt g sto e id l , S enorita and still le ss th e provokl ng man

‘ ner in w ic s h e ad u e s a cha us s ur e m nonne h h j st d ig , at in a While I w as attending on hei d ner . To a fr gile of the m e i a e i n acefu ne form ost d l c t proport o s , gr l ss ,

‘ an ex res sw e fa e an » a com l exmri mu fai e p c , d p ch r r

’ h an e of hé n w men s h e uni e man t thos r cou try o , t s y c m lis hments amon w hic is a n e e of O p , g h k owl dg th e French and English l anguages . l ” This very delightful p arty brok e up about 1 1 ’ f e a a in of dulces w e e me a o clock, a t r p rt k g , (s t ts, ) e h e and its accomp anying gl as s of w at r . T Marques

’ ' h ad i en i e e ainme n at his i e on ac gv th s nt rt t s st r s , , ’ un of the ill ea of his e w h o e co t h lth broth r, r side d a ni t - He uni e e o m at his ow n. t s gr t dig ty uch s ua ‘ vity of manners ; his co nvers ation w ith foreigners

1 i n en w w an ua e h e is » erfe s Fr ch , ith hich l g g p ctly

N o S aw me of th e a e u e vember 2d. so dv nt r rs this m rnin - h ad em a e a fe w m n ef e o g, Who b rk d o ths b or f th e ni e S a e un er n and e 1 rom U t d t t s , d Irvi g oth rs , 11 e h ad u e an exp e dition to Puerto Rico . Th y j st b e n el ea e f m n at 0 u1 acoa ic a r s d ro pri so , to wh h pl ce e w en w en i a in e i n ei un e a in th y t h d s ppo t d th r d rt k g .

‘ ‘ e t N ove mber 3d to 7th . In m am hrou h the y r bl s y g

‘ c ema e me of th e in c i i n e f un ity, r rk d so s r pt o s to b o d over th e doors of al most all th e hous es . Th at upo n th e front of the mans 1on occ upied by th e Bish op of a a as 1s as f C r c , ollows E ON NOT S COLOMB IA .

MDCCXCV A I . YGN C O DE LOYOLA DOCENTE MA GISTRA RELIGEONI SANTA C A SA DE EXERCICIOS

’ n n w ic a ear to a e me -a This i scriptio , h h pp s h v so re fe en e ‘ the i u i u f un erof the Je ui an r c to ll str o s o d s ts , d

~ 1s a f La in a f S ani do. not e fe com h l t , h l p sh; I p r ctly e O e are m e e a i un e e pr hend . th rs or s ly d rstood ; th y most commonly i ndic ate the p atron s aint Of the fami E l atron dc es tac as a es cl dolce nom ly . As p br e de Jes us La atr ona de es ta cas a es la ; or, p dr s de u e i e e t o ma e s antis ima l a l z . B s d es th s sor f n c i i n a m e e r u e h a nted u i s r pt o s , l ost v y ho s s pal pon it u ua e th e e n an e ome i m , s lly ov r tr c , s p atr otic otto bl i c de Colo b as vi va la r e u a m ia . i it is i , p Th s , m ders tood w as ne e of th e e n n , do by ord r gov r me t, and must be consid ere d a v ery good stroke of po c as it e e e th e e e a nd e ar of the we li y , pr s nt d to y lo r

' e a a a e i n w i w uld ea em ord rs , p l p bl s g , h ch o l d th to ec u n th an e l n the overnment of w h1ch refl t po e ch g g ,

‘ e e e mi a e e aw a e a e an a ls , th y ght sc rc ly b r ; g v p earance of unanimi as e a e t he i i al p ty, r g rd d p ol t c an e w en t i was far f m e in th e a e ch g , h h s ro b g c s ; a nd e a en e fix th e w a e in u , p rh ps , t d d to v r g, by th s f in e m w ea u Unwi in th e co orc g th to r, tho gh ll gly, o i e a ula lours f the republ c . But it w as mor p rtic rly u efu l n e en in th e a h u e be s l pr v t g roy lists, s o ld th y

‘ me ma e of the wn f m i in ui in the co st rs to , ro d st g sh g i enc e nen w i h res d es of th eir more decid d oppo ts , h c e w u ed do h ad the th y o ld h av e b ee n enabl to , my alis t or trimme r been permitted to i ndulge the b ent

N C . OTES ON , OLOMBIA

“ 1 on th eir . h eads q oadin o s u en , r g n th e a e b rd ; fi g ir gr v n ea e bur os an not l ooking lo g r d , d a e n m un e n the riding s co d, or o t d o to

‘ e annie s ambe de a ambe dela we e n fill d p r , j g j , r joggi g

nw the fai . e we e c an e e o ards to r Th y r le ly dr ss d , u and we ma e an a efu in extremely rob st ll d , d gr c l th e a a a e th e i e th th eir w alk . As ro d ppro ch s r v r, e

’ b ath ers are s een performingth eir daily abl ution h e i e fam a ie in u in th e th e wom n n littl ily p rt s, cl d g a c eened the en e f a e ch ildren, p rtly s r by d s oli g , or,

a a a in e . t is con w hen necess ry, by b th g dr ss As i s idered extremely rude to intrude upon th es e p ar e u m a a and manne e en tl s, c sto , p thy, good rs, pr v t th e viol ation of propriety;

o mber 10th . af e n on a m ie a . N ve This t r o , cco p an d a ma e u th e i e a en i n of Le a se p rty d p by pol t tt t o Dr . ,

'

the fam u e a e f Mr. an n a u f u to visit o s st t o Bl di , bo t o r a a a n as e e n e e is l eagues from C r c s . As soo w t r d h un we w e e s u w the nea ne and ex gro ds , r tr ck ith t ss cell ent ord er of th e estate ; the res ults of the skill and p ersonal superintendance of its w ealthy and i ita wne . an n h as en ed th e hosp ble o r . Mr Bl d joy h appy advantage of conciliating th e respect of the n en in tie and w u a in a a l n co t d g par s, itho t t k g p rt o i i a e en ana e e e e his an u p l t c l v ts, m g s to pr s rv l ds n t u e i e a he a e h a e e o ch d, w h l so m ny ot rs h v d to d plor « th e devastation of th eir the infuriate a i i of e1 a e a w e e u m l gnty th r dv rs ries . As rod p to th e a e e f un e ie ead g t , w o d the venerabl propr tor r y

.to ecei e us and as h e o w ea un r v , st od ith his h d bo d

u in a n ief n man» p s ow White h andkerch , his air a d ‘

M B . R. LANDIN

" ner recalled to my mind th e idea I h ad forme d of ' an e e English country gentl man. W dismounted on the a e e a e i n f n of the u s p v d t rr c , ro t ho se, andacend ed by a handsome flight of steps to the piazz a which “ i ea s urrounds th e mansi on. Th s b utiful house is ui of i u a manne a to a al t b lt wood, n s ch r s guard g ns ' h a t e eflécts b f ea a e . is ai e i e re rthqu k s It p nt d wh t , lieved by V enitian blinds ; some of th e floors are of w the and win w a e a mi in a ood ; doors do s l rg , d tt g

f ee ua n of air . eau ean ne and r circ l tio B ty, cl li ss, 1 mf m ne f m a e in h a 1101 co ort, co bi to or dw ll g which s ' e ua C o its q l in l ombia.

‘ f e a ta in of me dulces a nd wi e we A t r p r k g so n , i e f of t e ‘ went to Vl eW the grounds . D r ctly i n ront h e a t o a of ma n w in w ic th e hous re w v ts so ork, h h " coffee 1s dried ; in th e centre of each 1s a trap - door emn i n th e vau n u e re ei e the op g to lts, co str ct d to c v e grain wh en its moisture is s ufficiently exp ell d . A en e ween th e a at the f broad walk ext ds b t v ts , oot of the wa a htof ne e ea a we lk ,_ flig sto st ps l ds to flo r e d fa e on a ve re iece garden b low, an rth r to ry p tty p ’ af e e in for namen is u efu d eau, which, t r s rv g or t, s lly employed in turni ng the machi nery and 1rr1gating

T he out- u e e and mi l the pl antation. ho s s, stor s, l for sep arating the h usk from the coffee and for un i rl ce are he i and a t e in the po d ng , to t r ght, lit l rear of th e principal b uilding ; th e b arrack s of the A negroes b eing removed some h undred yards . fi e a coffee pl antation l n C aracas res embl es a n p rk, an e but the as nothing i s visible at a little dist c , ee a e sombre beautiful cotton wood s h ade tr s, c ll d N E O N C OT S , OLOMBIA .

' r s an e to e th e cOflee l ant f m o , pl t d prot ct fip ro

s ixteen y ears

a a e e e ica e . an a n us u l to sh d th s e d l t shrubs by pl t i s, w hich reach a s uflicient h eightf or this purpos e in

- w e th ee ea s . T h e t n ree are ut n t of r r y r cot o t s p i to, i und a tth e ame ime and w en a e en u h s t , h l rg o gh, are cut down. ' T he uan i of an cu i a e In coflee q t ty l d lt v t d by Mr. nine one u e acres w i h ty to h ndr d , h c

twe n ve u and a i h ty fi tho s doll rs, w t th e employment f c . a n of an . n i a ortyh ds Ac ording to Mr Bl d , sh de trees are not necess ary ; the p art of his own plan ' a 1 n not a e ie as mu as a w l w t t o sh d d, y lds ch th t hich 1s furnishe d wit h sombreros 1 T h e cultivation of coffee Was first e xtensively

rai e f m ee an e in ul ncunx a u s s d ro s d pl t d q , bo t ix fee a a the un an i s e e wh n a t t p rt, y o g pl t r mov d e bou two fee i wi h the il a a it n t h gh , t so tt ch ed to , a d is

‘ imme d vvn the ei of ten in Th i tr d m to h ght ch es . e so l of th e nurs ery should be th e s ame In quality as th at posed to be an a u five l u in b t bo t or e g pr n g, u the tree s C O FFE E PLANTATION.

“ th e n e an is in u b arm slender crop e s co d y ar, d f ll e g the i eac te th rd , h d to annua that period, a en f m the e w en i er is picke d or sh k ro tr e, h it s p fe tl red em i e cr anebcrr it i s e c y , res bl ng a larg y, th n e e in a s o ma n w r sm l a e xpos d, v t f so o k, ooth y pl st r

7' ed i t e s un r . W en ea e e , n h to d y h n rly dry, th r d u en e e w i u un th e a n e mes p lpy v lop h ch s rro ds gr i , b co o a da ni c u and e i e a ed f rk brow sh olo r, 1s as ly s p rat

‘ f e e i o from the grai n by means O roll rs . Aft r th s pe

’ r n s a a1n e th e e e the atio , it i g expos d to Sun, to xp l e main n m i u e i mu t be ne effe ua r i g o st r , th s s do ct lly

‘ ntatl on T h e- offee is en in e to pre vent ferme . c th clos d

in a u h a s a e n wn l n mme e . b gs , s c r k o co rc ' ' a i e li a e M a c fi f coflee 1s frOm Ar b a F x, c ll d ok o ee . I of a a a h as not a a ne th e ec n an th at C r c s tt i d s o d r k, f it is owing to want of care in the h arvest and s ub- ’ ‘ . an n ofie a sequent preparation Mr . Bl di s c e lways commands one or two cents more 111 the market from his s uperior care and attention to th ese pro

The evening stole upon us as we were adml ri ng i e e a ara e e e u ne the u th s t rr stri l p dis ; w r t r d to ho se,

‘ and after taking a cup Of the delightful beverage afforded by some of th e plants we h ad been view in the a was n e n th e mu i g, p rty co duct d i to s c room, an ap artment constructed expressly for this pur ’ e the a of . pos e . Here on of l dies Mr Blandin s fami sat u i e e ian ly down to an exq is t ly ton d p o, with

De ons p , 62 NOTES ON COLOMBIA;

s i n e f m of a a a upri ght tr gs , la th or h rp ; gentleman

' of the p arty accompanied the piano on the violin . e e i me a d t o e e e e With th s nstru nts n w voic s, w w r unexp ectedly regaled with a concert of the most a m e a an nd en m n e e uted ! d ir d It li a Fr ch co positio s, x c

‘ i n the m fin e e W e eft i a e ost ish d styl . l th s hospit bl ' ro f a e in th e e e n i man Wis hes d or th e o l t v ni g, W th y continued prosp erity of its interesting and accom l is hed ie u ne n uil in p propr tor ; and ret r d to tow , b d g [ a e in th e air as i and uns ubstantial as the c stl s , h gh moon- lit clouds reposing on th e s ummit of the S illa; P CHA TER IV .

— — C OLOMBIA TE RRITO RIAL v xsrons HISTORICAL SKETCH

- - ” VA LLE Y O F CA RACAS SILLA CAPTAIN-GE NE RAL=

SHIP.

‘ e u c of l a m e of t THE R p bli Co ombi , co pos d h e three sep arate governments formerly known as the

a ain- ene a i of a aca th e ice - n m C pt g r lsh p C r s, V ki gdo of New ana a and th e n en enc of u and Gr d , I t d y Q ito, u e uen as the e ri ial i i i n V enezue a s bs q tly, t r tor d v s o s, l , C un inimarc a nd ui is he d a, Q to, bounde d on t north and north - east by th e C aribb ean S ea and th e Atl an tic O cean on the u azi and e u h e ; so th by Br l P r , t line of demarcatio n extending from the mouth of th e O in a n th a a e N a au en r oco, lo g e co st , to C p ss , th ce E s e uibo on the i e of that n me the m u to q , r v r , a , to o th f th e R e umunurl en e the ainof T u O p , th c to ch nucu e m un ain a n a i e it i raqu o t s , lo g th t r dg to s ntersection with the Sierra de Acaray ; along the Sierra to the m n n i ai t e Paracaima ou tai s, by th s ch n to h river

r s and th e a te the Rio- e C ababu i , by l t r to N gro ; u the rl ver Ya u a th e nce nearly due so th to p r , by this stream and th e Braso de Y apura to the A ma o Th e b u a en a e n the mazon z n. o nd ry th sc ds A to

‘ of th e Iavari en e for the m a the mouth , th c ost p rt

~ ill - e mine 1ma inar ine nea in a by d et r d g y l s , rly i the main h a n Of th e e westerly direct on to c i A nd s, ’ a e a um e in the of nd by the Cordill r to T b s , gulph ’ ua i the w e t it is un e the Pa . G yaqu l . To s bo d d by cific O l en a me a cean and Guatima a, or C tr l A ric , N C OTES ON OLOMBIA. the division lines of the republics extending across th e Isthmus from th e Gulph of DOl ce to Point C a

e e f m a a t e = rita . Its xt nt ro C rit to h mouth of the Ori n c fr m w e e a 1 ah u o o, o st to st, s o t o ue thous and three ‘ ’ h n e mi e an f m a e e a t u dr d l s ; d ro C p V l o Guayaquil, from north to south about one thous and two h un

n um th e a n- a dred . Accordi g to H boldt C ptai gener l . s hip of C araca s or V enezuela,contai ns forty - eight u a n ua e ea ue and th e n f ew tho s d sq r l g s , ki gdom o N

' ’ ixt fi ana a incl udin uitO s ve u an . Gr d , g Q , yf tho s d A te i a u as a e as the ni e S a e ea rr tory bo t l rg U t d t t s, st of the M1s s1s s 1 j with an e en of s ea- e » pp , xt t coast sti

’ mated at three thous and miles,co ntaining a popu

‘ lation of two million six h undred thousand. W hen the central positio n of Colombia ' is cousi e e in e a our O w n n inen as as d r d r g rd to co t t, W ell to u e an a an the a i i a er E rop d Asi , d prob b l ty th t e long a na i a e ana c nne in th e ean wi be v g bl c l, o ct g oc s ll

‘ opened by the Atratoyt or some of th e oth er prac

The following 1s oneof the nine points Of communication etw een th e At antic and acific Oceans , in icate as racti b l , P d d p ca e b . de um o t in hi s e ssa on New S ain bl y M H b ld , y p In the interior of th e provin ce of Choco the ravine of Raspadura unites th e neighbouring sources of the rivers San

Juan and uito. his atte r unite wi h the A nda eda and Q T l , d t g ' the Z itara forms the Atrato w ich em ties into the u h of , , h p G lp

- Darien Whi e th e San Juan fa s into th South ern Ocean. , l ll e A n enter rizin ries cura e of the vi a e ovi a cause p g p t, t ll g N t , d a cana to b d in th ravine of as a ura b his ari l e ug e R p d , y p shione navi ab e urin the season rs . B me ns of this ana y a c l , g l d g of rains canoes a en wi h cacao have assed rom one ocean , , l d t , p f

‘ to the other. er then is a s carce known interior commu H e, , ly nication which h xis e since the ear 1 88. The oints , as e t d y 7 p

N ON OTES C OLOMBIA .

Jaime . 7 . Guanar . 8 O s inos . e . p

'

- 2 . ure 1 . c a uas . 2 . S an Fe rnan o. 3 . Ap , A h g d

i c s . an e c . i o ca a a ua a . 4 Gua ua p t l, A h g M t l d l t .

10 s d e Z ulia. 4 Jibraltar: 5 . uer , P

- . m 2. a I Co . S n Luis ar uan 3 . a a . P g ,

ie ac 4 . c l e ue o uevo. C a h f p , P bl N

si ua . 5 . Cumare o g b .

3 . erida . 4 . ai a ore s . 5 . a . Sa M B l d L g rita 6. n

' 2 i . . e v 3 . C h i um un L a q q a .

hie ace a e . c Gu ue 7 . ocu . f pl , t q T yo

- 8. san a Rosa . 9 Suaté . 10. T ~ t , . er ’

11 . m erqué . Garagoa .

- am ona . 2 . S an os e d e c P pl J C u uta. ‘ i . 4 3 . Rosar o de C ucu a . a azar . _ t S l a . nc e cion . 6 . a a . 5 . C o p M l g 7 .

ir n . . r n a . 9 Pie J o 8 Buca ama g . d e

- 1 ocorro. 2 . S an GI1. 3 . aric ara. . S B h 3 ocorro . S 6 T ERRITORIAL DIV ISIONS . 7

m eme .

1 o o a. 2 a a 3 . Me za 4 . B g t z . . . ‘ i a . 5 . oc a m F sa a . T u g suga. 6 - . o a. e sa 7 . San Mar in . . 1 B og t q u . t 8 Sip a

1 . 0 Choconta.

u a uas . 1 1 . G d

O 9 . ara ui a M q t ,

ca i a on a. p t l, H d

lidad 4 . a a e s . 5 . C orosa . : . M h t l 6 ’

El arme n. . T0 111. 8. C 7 Chi mi . - 9 . a an ue. 10. S an eni o 1 . ar a ena. a C t g M g g B t Ab d . — . . 2. M u 11 Loric a 1 ompos 13 . Ma

1 a ua . 14 . ami i . 15 . Islas d e j g l S t ‘

- S an Andre s .

- - 1 . an a ar a . 2 . e u . S t M t V all D p ar 3 . - 2. an a ar a . Oc afi a . 4 . Plato . 5 . ama ame ue S t M t T l q . 6 . Valencia (16 Jesti s .

a e b e. 2 . C oco 1 . ra o c ie c Q ui d h , At t , h f pl , - ca i a ui o. San Juan c i e ac e ovi a. p t l, Q bd , h f pl , N t

. . 1 . P as o. 2 u uerre s . 3 . ial e s . 3 Pas to t . T q ' Ip

ca i a Is uandé. \ p t l, e ON O 68 NOTES C LOMBIA .

P rovinces .

1 - 1 . nama. 4 . a 5 . Le s an os . Pa 1 Nat . S t

r a. 2 . Ve agu

1 . Pinch incb a ui o. 2 . ac ac i . 3 . La T a , Q t M h h , o r ca Ital ui o . cun a . 4 . os . 5 smera as . t p , Q Qq . l o i t g E d t u a Q . u i . mb a r 1 arra 2 . ta al 3 o acac 2. I I u a O b o . . C q b , . b . t h , ’ ” X l c i a I arra . 4 a am e. a . C E a p t l, b y b t e i s h p a 3 Ch Imb or azo 1 Rl o amb a. 2 . m a o. 3 . Guano . T c , b A b t

. . 6 acas . mba an 5 ausi . c a i al RIOb a . Guar a. p t , d Al M

1 . e a 2 . . 1 C u nc . afi ari. 3 Gu a C al s eo .

4 . J

1 . o a . 2 . Z ar ma: u 3 . ar iaman a L j C g .

4 Ca acoc a. . t h

racamoros 3 . B y

1 . aen . 2 . or a. 3 . Maiii as J Je vero . , B j s

a ui . 1 . Gu yaq l ’ E ena . 6 . ac a a l M h l .

- Monte Gu sti .

i ac e e r Note. Th e name s of th e c a i a s or c e s of a m e n s Pro p t l , h f pl D p t t , vince s or C an ons are omi e w ere e are th e same as th e terI itori l , t , tt d h th y a

divisions In whi ch they s tan d .

fi e of COl mbus in 14 2 e u e T he rst voy ag n , 9 , r s lt d

th e - Sa ad u a and an in discovery of S an lv or, C b , S

Doml n o His anl ol a a le th e na i e a i. g or p , c l d by , t v s H yt uil a f a nd s e i n of th e dl sc vered He b t ort, took po s ss o o e of a countries in the nam Of th e king S p in. IC S ET HISTOR AL K CH .

" u i n se n u e the D r g his co d , which occ pi d years 4 14 934 -9 11 and 5 h e f un e th e w n of a e a 9 , o d d to Is b ll ,

In i ani a . T h e rew ard of his i e e iti n H sp ol ' th rd xp d o

in 14 8 was the i e of ini a a 9 , d scov ry Tr d d , nd th at ar of the c n inen in i e in th p t o t t ly g oppos t , e gu of “ lph

a i h e t a en in l f tters P r a . w s s t e to S p ain; but a n ium ed O en his e nemies in 1 502 , h vi g tr ph v , , a f u e e i i n w as en u e his i e i n o rth xp d t o tr st d to d r ct o , dur in w i h be e re a ar e i n of th e c g h c xplo d l g port o oast . e an e V I his u a e in 1501 an Al x d r . by b ll, d t d , , tr s ferre d to the kings of S p ain all Jurl s diction w hich

h e u e mi a e c aime e ' t or his s cc ssors ght h v l d , ov r h e

' u e a u e e a i e i n th e N e w W ch rch s bo t to b st bl sh d orld . T h e crow n of S pam th us b eca me th e hea d of th e hie a c in me i a and all in e c u e e r r hy A r c , t r o rs b tw een the ch urch and th e pop e w as interdicted exce pt t ron h the in * h g k g . v

In1 5 1 1 the c nc o the nd e ” , ou il f I l s w as es tablish

ed Ferdm and a nd re- m e e a e by , od ll d by Ch rl s V .

in i c un at w c the in w as ~ Th s o cil, hi h k g sup e e i e e a me the s verel n l e is la t pos d to pr s d , b c o g g m e of the ni e T h e e the un i Of C as colo s . cort s , or co c l t e w i we e at ffe en e i the a a me n il , h ch r di r t p r ods p rli ts

of S ain u In no w a in e fe e wi the “ p , co ld y , t r r th go

vernme nt O f me i a Th e new i e e ~ A r c . ly d scov r d coun ie a n ' e a of th e n ies fo tr s , ccordi g to th l ws I d , rme d an In e a a of the S amsh em i e e ua in t gr l p rt p p r , q l

Nearly sumlar pri vil eges were accorded to th e kings of A re the Catho ics th en of or th A merica the l , , N , w ho have direct cOmmunication with the pope 9 Is it not hi h er g time to have an Am eri can successor of St. Pet ON C NOTES OLOMBIA .

and n the Pen n a a rights dig ity to i sul , but no oth er wis e connected with it th an In h aving a common h ead .

S af e th e e th e un - an the oon t r discov ry, co try d ‘ ‘ e h uman cattl e were s el z d upon by th e co nq uerors . e n ian w e e in a e e e Th I d s r sold to sl v ry , oppr ss d, an ea e a an e ed and so i nh um ly tr t d , th t thous ds p r ish a thI Ough th e s everity of th eir task m sters . Upon th e repres entatio ns of Las Cas as and oth er ani a n a e m w as ma e ame friends of h um ty, tt pt d to of the n ian i h e e a i l iorate the Condition I d s, n t st bl sh \ c of the r e ar timientos w h th e w ere in ut . p , by hic y am n the S an a “ who h ad the fit divid e d o g p i rds , pro a u for a e a n e m b t i a of th eir l bo r c rt i t r , u w thout right n e e on i h n d of property i th ir p rs s, w h c remal e with th e ki ng . Th e crying ab us es Of this plan l ed to th e s ub eti tution of the encomzenderos . T he e ncoml endero was obliged to l l ve In th e district contaInIng the In dians under his guardianship ; h e w as required to

' e civih ze and n uc them and in e u prot ct, , i str t ; , r t rn, w as p ermitted to receive a tribute in money or per na s er e em w a t e u e of s o l vw . This syst s h so rc as muc o l es s mn as th e t h pp for ner . T h e ne effort In fa of the a u e n ia xt vour b s d I d ns,

' w as th e confiding th em to the care Of missionaries and u a es but fina w e e a we c r t , lly, th ey r llo d to e ec ma l strates a e a for e ow n o l t g c ll d alc ldes, th ir g ei nment c e the n of a v ; s ubj e t, how e v r, to co trol e i e t th e a a de f m mm t corr g dor, to prev n lc l s ro co it ing excesses in th e exercl se of th eir authority HISTORICAL SKETCH. 71

At first th e king had but two repres entatives in

a e e w e e the VIcero s of e i and Americ . Th s r y M x co ’ u i i w as e ec e in a ca ain- ene a Per . Ch l r t d to pt g r lship 8 T he em ene of ome a of the un in 15 6 . r ot ss s p rts co f m the V i e a t Lima c a ne th l try ro c roy , o c sio d ecrea

n of a i i e - in d m a of N ew ana a tio th rd v c k g o , th t Gr d ,

a in S an a - d e a for a i a In h v g t Fé Bogot its c p t l,

1 3 1 the a ain- ene a of a a a w as s e 7 , c pt g r lship C r c s arated f m th e i e— in m of ana a a in p ro v c k gdo Gr d , h v g for its capital the city of C aracas ) 16 - This p art Of the coast h aving been discovered by number of adv enturers h ad s ucceeded in penetrat e e a ing into the v alley of C arac as . T h r ports m de of its fe m ne and the beau of its i rtility, its i s, ty s tu a i n we e f en e ea e a th e S ani o t o , r so O t r p t d , th t p sh g vernment e e m ne a e a n i ts d t r i d to pl c colony o soil . d T he fi wh o a em e w as Trancis Faxardo rst tt pt d it , s on of a S p aniard of M argarita and Is abella, ca

‘ cique of one of th e natio ns which inh abite d the

s e n h a an a e Of his ma e o v alley . Pos ssi g t e dv t g t r nal n and a n w e e of man of the n ian origi , k o l dg y I d an ua e he at fi ma e im e f a ce a e l g g s , rst d h s l c pt bl to the iffe en a i ue w ho at a me am un ed d r t c c q s , th t ti o t u w a of i h in un e ei n to p rds th rty , old g d r th r co trol, a co i e i a n one un e and fif c rd ng to st m tio , h dr d ty u an n a Faxardo w in fi tho s d I di ns . , ish g to pro t by the i n e i n to ards / h i favourable dispos tio x sti g w m,

A fourth vice - r t w a esta lish e in 1778 at uenos oyal y s b d , B A res c m i ossessions east of the y , o preh endi ng all the Span sh p w es ern co il eras of h es and south of the A mazon . t rd l t e And , NOTE S O N COLOMBIA

erml s s a pplied for p mn to. b uild a tow n ; b ut awaken

' the u i of the n a h e w ing s sp cions I di ns, as obli ged to retire with the fe w adventurers wh o had followed

im. a n fai e i a i u em e h H vi g l d n v r o s att pts , h at l ength mcurred the ill will of the S p anish gover

‘ n was eac e u ec e umana th e , ors , tr h ro sly d oy d to C , by e n nz a and an e gov r or Alo o C bos , str gl d . Pe e iran a u ie th e a e of a d t r M d s ppl d pl c Fax r o.

l a th e Gr e nor a m an e i e e i i Col do, ov r , cco p i d th s xp d ton, ati f im e f wi e a a mme w i e to s s y h s l th r g rd to , h ch h n e ce th e e of i fou d to x ed report mad t by Faxardo. en a i i n of the n an e s A g er l oppos t o I di s , oblig d thi a t ma e a a e ea and as o i p r y to k h sty r tr t, it w n t t ll the arrival of a reinforc ement of S paniards th at u e e e in u n a m l a e f th ey s cc d d b ildi g s a l vill g o h uts,

‘ w hich was calle d S an- Francisco,and occupie d the u n a a a was u e uen s pot po w hich C r c s s bs q tly b uilt . a T he a ttention oft th e S p ani ards b eing diverte d he n e of t a e the ne from t co qu st he v ll y, by cessity of e in f ee e name u e wh o w re pr ss g a r boot r d Ag irr , , ith f we w as e e a n e e a i o his ollo rs , p rp tr ti g v ry troc ty n e a th e e of n ue t w as not e u th co st, proj ct co q s s rio sly re u e 1565 w en ve n Bernal ez a e s m d till , h Go r or d g v th e mman of an e e i n for u e to co d xp d tio , this p rpos , , u e e e l a Pena o fin n the n an as G ti rr s d , wh di g I di s s em e ute his a a e u u en bl d to disp p ss g , tho ght it pr d t e e to r tir . T he ex ecution of this enterpris e Was reserved for

on Pe k h arrl ved f m S ain as D dro de Leon, w o ro p e n i n ne e no mean Gov r or, with i nstruct o s to gl ct s to ‘ 1 6 h e t f a a . n. 5 accomplish he conquest o C ar c s I 7,

741 NOTES ON COLOMBIA .

m th e u e of its Sea - La ua a i fro b stl port , G yr , d stant, in a ai ine not m e an s ix ei t mi es , str ght l , or th or gh l , , ‘

' d en e e as e i e and s ecure as if » an r d r th city r t r d , re f e m n th n e i T he mov d one h undred iles i to e i t r or .

' ridge on th e south give s inclinatio n to th e tributary

eam i we the T u . T o the w e str s wh ch s ll y st, it is sep arated from th e fertile v alley of V alencia and its man i l a e a u of m un ai n a e ro t c k , by g ro p o t s, c ll d i ue m i n am n e uena i a H g rote, co pr si g, o g oth rs , B v st a m t a t is as . u m ea he ua a nd he C oqu Fo r s ll str s , G yr ,

h e a c th e a u e and the a a ua a i u -i t An u o , C t ch , C r g t , d g i d th e na e of e af e mean e n u fie by m riv rs , t r d ri g thro gh e aff in w a for the th e Vall y, ord g ter p urpos es of i a i n and th e w an of a u u c n e irr g t o ts pop lo s ity, u it and find ei w a the s ea th e r e T u th r y to by iv r y, to e of ca e e a th e ast p Cod r . i u fa e uffi n nea a ea e e Th s s r c IS s cie tly r d d l v l , to w arrant th e b elief that this b asin once formed th e b ed o a a Th e a e is ai a e een f J ke . v ll y s d to h v b drained by a cleft in th e r idge calle d th e quebrada dc Ti s a i i ua i ie e e e . n n w e p M y sl ght eq l t s, ho v r, s rv e a t e n e e a e e to giv v rl e y to th grou d . Th s h v b e n eize u n as a a e i e for i a w ic s d po ppropri t s t s v ll s, h h are i e e e e a d e e i e e i an n d sp rs d h r n th r , l k littl sl ds, i t i s e of e h s a verd ur . T h e margl n is very irregularly indented by th e e in un ain f mi proj ct g sp urs of th e mo t s , or ng

m n ie ea - an stretchm a ea e pro o tor s, or h d l ds, g gr t r e i an e i e u i e in the or l ss d st c , t ll at l ength th y s bs d to ene a e e of th l T e e o ectl ons wi g r l l v l e p a1n. h s pl j , th th e a e na e n en a i e en a n aiti n lt r t i d t t ons, pr s t striki g tr or SILLA CARACAS . 75 the ene for n in n i e sc ; , co t ui g with cons d rabl e regu l arit the ummi of th e i e e n ea of y to s t r dg s , b i g cl r ee u e e w i e u e ’ tr s, tho gh cov r d th v rd r , th ey pres ent th e a e a ance of u e fu w w ic t pp r h g rro s , h h h e imagi nation may fancy to h ave b een trace d by th e h ands of a race of giants . In i na w a e w i th e i th s rro v ll y, h ch h storian of V e nezuel a c m a e th e e e i a a a i o p r s to t rr str l p r d se, recog nising in its four streams thos e of th e gard en of

en are be f un —th e anana and an in Ed , to o d, b pl t ,

an e ime and em n ee th e u a - c or g , l , l o tr s , s g r ane and In ian c n the a a of w i c c a e is made d or , c c o, ( h ch ho ol t , )

ffee a e and a ic ee th e ine - a e i e co , ppl pr ot tr s , p ppl , ol v , vine fi eac uin e co n e in i a ' , g, p h, q c , tto , ric , d go, nd a n of e ui e f ui as th e ua a chili mo as lo g list xq sit r ts, g v , y ,

- & a ea a ma in c. u in allig tor p r, t r ds, flo rish g near e ach e uni in in a na w a e th e u i n oth r, t g rro s p c prod ct o s of th e temp erate and torrid zone s . Amo ng th e many striking obj ects pres ented at every ste p to th e eye of the delighte d visiter of this e th e S illa a e a e f m favour d spot, , (s ddl , ) so c ll d ro e e mb an e a e a en i n its its s uppos d r s e l c , rr sts tt t o by is i ua e the n e a of tow ering h eight . It s t t d to orth st

a a i an a u five 51x mi e in on C ar c s , d st t bo t or l s , slop g, w a th e a e and on th e e e one side, to rds v ll y, oth r ov r i i its f i fu r 01 1ce s th e i e wn h ang ng, w th r ght l p e p , l ttl to

a ui on th e s ea e a dis of C aravall ed , b lt shor , short ei w as t ance to th e east of La Guayra . Its h ght first e um a accurately determmed by MM . d H boldt nd f the e e a i n of i 0 . e un Bonpland , n 18 0 Th y o d l v t o th e i ea e n me be 8662 fee a re= h ghest, or st r do , to t, NO 'r ns 76 ON COLOMBIA . s ult much under th e estimated h eight gl ven to it by the C araca ians Who f m a na u a fee in h ad n , , ro t r l l g, en ifie em el e w ei fa u e id t d th s v s ith th r vo rit mountain, and e i e a of i e in u e e e a ch r sh d sort pr d (its s ppos d l v tion. o i e e i i n de Th e foll wmg l v ly d scr pt o is from M . ’ H umboldt s acco unt of his visit to th e S ill a . “ a in a i e at the ea e n ummi e en H v g rr v d st r s t, w joy d o a fe minu e all th e e eni of the e only f r w t s , s r ty T he e e c mman e a a a e of c un sky . y o d d v st sp c o try,

e w n. w a th e n on th e s ea and look d do to rds orth , , and wa th e u on the fe i e a e of C a to rds so th , rt l v ll y ,

e mbracm an e e nt of s ea of i - racas , g xt th rty six ‘

T se er o s e . a e a iu . ho s n w e nse r l e gu s r d s p hos s s a e.

ected n w n a n e a e e aff by looki g do co sid r bl d pth , sho uld remai n at the c entre of a l arge fiat which crowns the eastern s ummi t of th e S ill a

' Th e mo untain is net very remark abl e for its ei bu it is dis tin ul s hed am n all e h ght, t g o g thos I te b an en m u e i ice on th e i e h ave visi d , y or o s pr c p s d T h e c a t f m n a a w ne xt the s ea. o s or s o ly n rro bor er and in f m the ummi of th e ami d . , look g ro s t pyr d, ‘ n th e u e of C aravall eda th e a of c o ho s s , w ll ro k l ’ ee m a n o tical i ll usion be nea er en s s, by p , to rly p p

dicul ar . T he ea of t e i a ea e . r l slop e he d cliv ty pp r d ° me a c in to an e ac ca c a i n 53 to , c ord g x t l ul t o ,

‘ e oriz nta t n m ravall eda a e th h o l dis a ce fro C a , to v r tca ine a s in s ummi nea i l l p s g through its t, r

‘ fee The mean ' sl o e o the Pea Of T enerifi e t p f k ‘ is O an t e a e de i i of M n an M d he, gr t st cl v ty o t Bl c, u h is as e n u a e tho g it d escribed out p rp e dic l rly, do s O F C B C S ILL A A A AS . 77 not even reach an a ngl e of A precipice of

e n u an fe e i e a of th S a o six or s e v tho s d t, l k th t e ill f aca a en me n n far m e rare an e C ar s , is ph o o or th is g nera lly belie ved by thos e w ho cross mo untains ’ u meas urm ei ei t ei u a nd the witho t g th r h gh , th r b lk , ir S e th e e e imen on the fa slop es . inc xp r ts ll of bo

ie and e1 e ia i n to th e u - ea a e ee d s , th r d v t o so th st h v b n re ume in u e a of i ee n un e f e s d E rop , rock s xt h dr d e t e en i u a ei h as in a n een u for p rp d c l r h ght, v i b so ght , ” amo ng the Alps of S witzerland . are f e en at a a a in t e R ains r qu t C r c s, h months of

A ril M a and June . u no ai f i p y y Altho gh h l alls . n th e l ow regio ns of th e tropics, yet it occurs h ere e e five e a and me ime u not v ry fo ur or y rs , so t s , tho gh ie f e e e i f e uen in a o a n. u in so r q tly, v ll s l ss l v t o D r g t e e main e , of the ea e e i ot e h r d r y r, th r s n mor w et weath e r th an is required for th e p urpos es of agri

u u e . In i c ima e of e e ua e u e the c lt r th s l t p rp t l v rd r , mo nths of Nove mb er a nd D ece mber are d elightfully ea an the ea e a of th e da is e c ea pl s t, gr t r p rt y v ry ‘ l r, generally not a cloud to be s een ; but towards e ven in mi are f me confiictin c urrents of air g, sts or d, by g , of iffe e n em e a u e w i fi en e in the d r t t p r t r s, h ch rst v lop g eau if me of he S i a me wee in wn b t ul do s t ll , co s p g do the i e of th e u un in m un ain and Con s d s s rro d g o t s,

dens in in u e e e the e a e . g to clo ds , s ttl ov r Whol v ll y But i l oom contrast e w een the ea ne of th s g y , b t cl r ss th e m n n and the u of th e e en n is or i g clo dy sky v i g , not T h e ni s of June observed i n mids ummer . ght and Ju ar a e ic u th e e e ly e cle r and d l io s, atmosph r en e e a m wi u n e u n a th poss ss s , l ost tho t i t rr ptio , th t 78 NO T E S O N C O LO MBIA ;

” p uri ty and transparency w hich are p eculiar ta {to e an in all e e a e valll es In a m wea bl l ds , l v t d , c l ther .

i u the e n th e a a n- ene Prev o s to r volutio , C pt i g ral ship of C aracas was one of those s e parate govern me ntsby which th e King of S p ain rul ed ' S outh me i a u th e me ium of his un i of th e A r c , thro gh d Co c l

" n i T e a ain - ene a e e e his a n I d es . h C pt g r l r c iv d ppoi t n f m the K n w m a ne h e w as ao me t ro i g, to ho lo e T e c m e countabl . he t rritory om i tt d to h 1s govern

en ccu ie f - ei t u an ua e ea ue m t o p d orty gh tho s d sq r l g s, i i e intos even in e name u a na subd v d d prov c s ; ly, C m , a e ona a aca e V enezu a B rc l , C r s prop r or el , Coro, a acai V arInas GuIana and one s e arate o M r bo, , , p g vernment a of the an of a a a , th t Isl d M rg rit .

In 1800 th e e en rovmces acc in um~ , s v p , ord g to H

c n aine a u » in a i an of holdt, o t d bo t h b t ts, w m e e a e and n ho w r sl v s, I dians . C HAPTE R v .

— — — CITY or C ARACAS PAV E MENTS PLA Z AS CA T HE fiRA L-i s — — — — MARKE T Cos TUME PROV IS IONs MA NUFA CTe nns so ' — — — CIE TY - ME RC HANTS SIE S TA THE ATRE N O BIL ITY

- LADIE S SETWA NTS .

fit S the e en e a i o CARACA , by r c t t rritori l divis on f e u ic Is th e ef i of the rov ce Of the R p bl , chi c ty p m

ame name In th e e a men of V enezue a . the s , d p rt t l ’ ° ' ‘ is i ua e in 10 80 n r latitude a n It s t t d o th , d ’ e n i u e f m Wa in t n at a n el 57 ast lo g t d , ro sh g o , e

of fee a e th e s ea contal nl n n v ation t bov ; g, I

9k" 8 a u in a i ants. 182 , bo t h b t

‘ e a e of the a ° h mean em u e 1 . T e t p r t r y r 7 Fahr. ea n Do . hot s so ea n Do . cold s so Maximum Minimum Th e city is b uilt on th e north ern co nfine of its

r d .H e i fu a e at th ef of th e Cer o c vila . d l ght l v ll y, oot

‘ e en s f m th e i e ua a its u e n im t It xt d ro r v r G yr , so th r l i u the S l de of the m un ain a u a f a mi e hav p o t , bo t h l l , in an a cen in a i an e of two un e a nd g s t th t d st c . h dr d five fee no ai n en a en a ua t . As p s h ave be t k to gr d te i the e w u d be found e eme in n enie n slop , it o l xtr ly co v t were w h eel carriages us ed ; but as e very thing is

‘ ’ transporte d on the b acks of mules accustomed to

The o - — H ~ u ation In 1802 w as for one thousan . um p p l , ty d 1 ' 80 NOTES ON COLOMBIA;

’ e the mountal ns th e In o venl n ‘ tra vers , c n e ce is nOt

~ ‘ T he length of th e city fromeast to west15 much e an ea and ma be e a e t great r th its br dth , y stim t d a a u a mil ef T he i er Anauco and a a ua a bo t r v s y C r g t oun t on the e a : e as w e as th e ua a b d i st th y, ll G yr the u are ed on e e en ne b i e on so th, cross xc ll t sto r dg s . m“ T he C atuch e runs through th e whole length of the i u n the u i fountal ns and w a e for c ty, s pplyi g p bl c , t r e h as five ri e b dome stic us s . It b dg s ut as the are su fe e e mai n as na u e f me e b anks f r d to r t r or d th m,

' " e i e u a and c e e with s wee ds i s te p, rr g l r, ov r d , th s

' ea m how ever u efu in u e th e a ea an e o s tr , s l, j r s pp r c f the city very much . he ee w e a e w e e are a T str ts , ll p v d ith p bbl s, bout twenty five feet broad ; th eir direction north and u and at i an e f in k so th , r ght gl s , orm g bloc s or ua e of a u ee un re fee on eac e sq r s bo t thr h d d t h sid . A stream of cl ear w ater flow s constantly thro ugh e e are no e e a e i e a many ofth em. Th l ; l v t d s d w lks t e a ne a nd une enne of th e a e me n h sh rp ss v ss p v t, and ‘ l ‘ th e c an encounter of l oaded .mu e w as onst t , l s , hich -

‘ f en a as. ie th e all ende ei a o t t k e y ld w , r r th r bsence a on e ie e s erious - 1nc v n nce to strang rs S ome taste and much ingenuity are discoverable in the a emen artcul al l in e ef e th p v ts , p i y thos b or e e n ance of uhli u in and a n th e a tr s p c b ild gs , lo g p s s a e ea in t e atios orC ur a of me g s l d g to h p , o t y rds , so i ivate F med of a and w i e eb p hous es . m bl ck h t p e e a are i e as bl s , th y are tessell ted, or so d spos d to

f rma name a a Of arm a t m . o , d te, co t s, or p trio ic otto

O N NOTES COLOMBIA .

athedral u in th e ea i The C , occ py g st s d e of th e ea ua e i s a u two un e and fi feet gr t sq r , bo t h dr d fty

e ent - five f n l ow an ea t d eep, by s v y ro t, d h vy ; h e roof is s upported by t w enty - four ma so n- Work pl astered

umn i n f u w . T h e tw o en e f m col s , o r ro s c tr rows or

e na e w n -fi ve fee a th o th v , t e ty t bro d ; e other tw i e the ai e at th e an e of w e e fee ea div d sl s , dist c t lv t ch ; so th at th e nave is as broad as th e tw o aisles on its

i ef T he i a a a e - n th r ght or l t . h gh lt r is pl c d agai st e

a i e th e ri nci al entrance . T h e c W ll, oppos t p p g hoir

' a f t e na e and h as a e u u occ upiesh l h v , v ry c mbro s

' t e i e th e i a a e e are f u een efl ec . B s d s h gh lt r, th r o rt e i n e e e a n the i e th smalle r o n s, r c ss s lo g s d s of e a a e ou the in e a f th ch urch , ppro ch d thr gh t rv ls o e T h e e e i n . e w e i 18 col um s st pl , h ch , pr v ous to 12,

as e ma a e for its e and ne doe w r rk bl h ight bold ss , s not now reach to more th an one - fourth its former

T e a e of the u in is a elev atio n. h e app ar nc b ild g lso ID UI‘Ed e n m u u e e of ne w much J by or o s b ttr ss s, sto ork , e on th e i e ua a ain th e effe erect d outs d , to g rd g st ct of e ar thquak es T he p art of the interior n ear the high altar 18 en

e e e wi i u es m ich i e f a me . tir ly cov r d th p ct r , r ly g ld d r s e e a nd ama a e fine ca e can V lv t d sk t p stry, rp ts , rich l estick s and a f i of he namen com d , pro us on ot r or ts , l ete th e e a i n T h e ve men of the e p d cor t o s . st ts pri sts d an assistants are v ery spl endid . a e e f a o n th e 28th of c At c l bration o high m ss, O ’ e t d a at w i al l the tob r, he president s birth y, h ch

" di ni a i of ove nm t both ci i and mi i ar g t r es g r en h v l l t y

and about two hundre d priests of th e vari ous ord ers . 83 CATHEDRAL .

— e e us un f m ass isted th e military m th ir gorg o i or s, i a s i ac w ea in th e in i nia of ffi e the civ li n n bl k, r g s g o c ,

t ' and the pri ests in their p eculiar cos tume s ; the st ate i was e l ines s of the cere mo n es v ry imposing“ T he l ie in a i u a ea e in e en e ro s al on pr sts , p rt c l r, s t d xt d d w g e in ei a w ite a d the nav , th r bl ck , h , n grey robes,

~ n T he e f o tificatio r1vetted my att entio . d gree o m r n w i me o the e u e em e e as to h ch so f ord rs s bj ct th s lv s , w

‘ e e n f m hei me a e habits bare e vid t, ro t r ho ly co rs , l gs, ma ia e f ame and w an un ena c t e ton e c t d r s , co t nes ; h ure a e ei ene a e a an e e s dd d to th r v r bl appe r c . Th ir

e u e me n u the en u of the e e th e d vo t d a o r, spl do r t mpl , e ce e nie u m impressiv r mo s , bro ght to ymind th e col

f a ina and at the w e of the a n lege o c rd ls , s ll org and

nume u i . w as an e for a m e ro s cho r, I tr sport d , om nt, ’ e — the V a an a n t Pe d S . n e to S t. t r s tic A g lo were e en w i ei w of a ia n pr s t, th th r cro d ssoc tio s . Th ere are fo ur p arish ch urch es b esides the cath e~ R a S t. a ie S t. Pau . an ema n dr l ; os l , l, C dl s, a d Alta (

a a . ee m na e e th e an i a Gr ci Thr o st ri s , Fr c sc n, the

m n an and a of c . Do i ic , th t Mer y O ne house of e s T e e on a of a u in . w pr ach rs , ho pit l C p ch s o nuh ne rl es one of nce i n the e of a me e , Co pt o , oth r C r lit s O e for th e a n of un w ne hous ed uc tio yo g omen, and S i e the ini e m a e t. au thre h er it g s, M r c , Tr ty, and La

“ T he ch urch es i n C aracas are generally w ell

' u a c u a e all the e b ilt . Th t w hi h s rp ss s oth rsis the

‘ u of A l ta a ia ui th e f ee me ch rch Gr c , b lt by r n of co u the uc u e of w i h w ul lo r, str t r h c o d do h ono urto the ” fi cit ‘ ies of a De ons . rst Fr nce. p 1 81 NOTES ON COLOMBIA .

' ' No couvents h ave b een fo und ed in th is country for ei ea and a ea u are d ai ghty y rs , thos e lr dy b ilt ly e m tes n to 1s1o s losing th 1r ma . Accordi g the prov n f a l aw a e the new men n as o p ss d by govern t, so soo th e number of religionists i s re d uce d to a certam omt the u in are a e n for th e us e of the p , b ild gs t k

state on a c ertain compositio n with the ord er . w e a n th e ea The market hich is h ld e v ery.:d y i gr t

‘ ‘

ua e e e nt a ver bus and in e e n e ne . sq r , pr s s y y t r sti g sc T h ma e e i e e ea a e are e rket p opl r s so v ry rly, th t th y

' b e to me me e w i i uce and ena l d co so mil s th th e r prod ,

te a m a ef re s un - i T he u c es are at nd ss b o r s e . ch r h

' en ef 1 e d a i afim uni Op b o y l ght, to d an opport ty to p erso ns of every class to witness the rites of th eir religio n ; and mass es are celeb1 ated every houi f1 om ’ e th at tim till 10 or 1 1 o clock .

T he n at ma e 1s ea e a u sun- i e thro g rk t gr t st bo t r s , t a h e wh o a en ma e a e asmuc a e h t t os tt d y sc p , h s pos i e th e a th e a e e are o e of . n s bl , h t d y As th r booths ,

~ a e manen e e of a n in th e . mar st lls , or p r t sh lt r y , k d, k et e e a an e e e e wi ut mu e p opl rr g th ms lv s, tho ch r gu the u l arit in ane e e n u . e mi r y, l s wid o gh to p r t p

‘ ’ a e a a in their commodities ch s rs to p ss through , h v g

‘ e e i e e are for xpos d mmediately b efore th m. Th y

th e m a w men of u of a ll th e interme n ost p rt, o colo r, ia e a e u e u p ean Af can and d t sh d s , prod c d by E r p , ri , n an and are the e an a e of I di blood , s rv ts or sl v s

' thos e w h o cul tiVate farms in the fneighbourhood ; or e u i a wh o i a ma a of un p tty c lt v tors, t ll s ll p tch gro d on e ow a u A i e aw n n f c t th ir n cco nt . l ttl i g o lo h or ea e m of em s a e palm l v s 15 erected by ost th , to h d c osr UME . 85

h u e e e e ua u p art of th e body ; t s sh lt r d , th y sq t pon.

a emen a nd wi th e m untiriu a ~ the stone p v t, th ost g p

‘ cu he tience await th e d e mand of stomers . T y d is

n e i e trafli c muc a u ene i e .» pl ay i th ir l ttl h c t ss , pol t e a e and a meni o manne a t e h e re n ss , gr c , ty f r, l og t r ; ' ' m0ved from‘ the coars e efi rontery of the s ame clas s T he ha u of women in oth er countries . rs h g tteral " f the i in a e v1ra o 1s e a e the l o B ll gsg t g , r pl c d by an ‘

u in i ui of the . c m ai an S en a g id , lisp g l q d , o pl s t or . T h ei r dress, which is uniform through th e whole t e tier r as ca ientes cons1sts of a of h l , short under

en .of a e n out e l o garm t co rs cotto , v ry w around the

' u and ex osm th e u e a e e in b st, l p g sho ld r bl d s b h d , w i me e a nne in a e th e u th r ly co ct g str p ov r sho lders , i e e a un th e ne an i n ee e mbro d r d ro d ck ch d p, with

n w e af e the. manne blue cotto , or orst d , t r r of our ’ ' O t s ailors shirt collars . ver his is a p ettico at of ca a ue n uff e fu a e lico, or d rk bl cotto st , v ry lly pl it d all ie wi a n c ose a e the i u . ro nd , t d th ba d l ly bov h ps A ’ man aw hat and a man a of bl ue cl oth a s str , till / , or

w » or a f of mu in a e e wn ve s h a l , sc r sl , c r l ssly thro o r ea and ul e m e e e1r the h d sho d rs , co pl t th

re a m a w a a ef e . e are not th ey a l ost l ys b r oot d Th y , w e e uall s arm m cint namen h o ev r, q y p g p or or t . an we e e i u e is w i a row of N o w om , ho v r d st t t , thout nd en an man w ea l eces of b eads, a its p d t cross y r p

i th c w ic ais m coin s uspe nded w th e ross, h h ostly of S me w e fee a e ne e n w i e . n gold or s lv r o , hos t h v v r k o th e ain of a h e are i e out w ic restr t s o , tr ck d ith r h

e ar - in nec a e e e and ri an gold r gs, kl c s, brac l ts , b lli t combs but th e h air 1s mos tg enerally confined by a n stri g, and adorned with flowers . 86 T NO ES ON COLOMBI A .

he dress o the men of the ame as T f , s cl s, co nsists

ai of w e e e of awe re m of a p r tro s rs , or ls dr rs ach g the knee a i a d n to n a h at. o ly , sh rt, str w E ach an a e e a lan e a dr e i e a e m lso poss ss s b k t, or i d h d c ll d oncho h av1n a i cut in its en e u p , g sl t c tr , thro gh c the ea u e in as a “ bed whi h h d is thr st, s rv g by ” a coverl n al l h e da a nd w in ime night, g t y hich , t ee e na e the w ne e n e i u of n d, bl s o r to disp s , W tho t u wa w of i m ro rl et i the er any o t rd sho p p y, w th oth ‘ e o w a e e two articl s f his rdrob e . To th s is add ed a a ta a n nife h w th e i vari a m che , lo g k , or s ort s ord, n e a e a S ani i bl e app nd g to p sh th gh . he a i e l n ma e a e the nume u T rt cl s sold rk t, r ro s i u f ui of the i a man of the d elic o s r ts trop cs , nd y te mperate l atitude s ; a mo ng w hich are oranges and n of a i u in an ain and banana ex lemo s v r o s k ds , pl t s s , cell enton acco unt of th eir wholesomeness and agree

a f u a e th i u - able flavo ur ; r it c ll d by e Engl sh so r sop,

c me ana e a i a - ea the e h addo ks , po gr t s , ll g tor p rs , d li iOus chilimo as a e fi s a e ea es c y , gr p s , g , ppl s , p ch ,

- um a i &c. wa e and mu e n a a pl s , pr cots , t r sk m lo s, t m

' n ua a i nea e nd ma T h ri ds , g v s , p ppl s, a ny oth ers . e e e a e are the a e but ma e v g t bl s , pot to ,good , s ll, b ets, a ni a a a e fine canl iflO ers e u e p rs ps , c rrots, c bb g , w , l tt c , s uas am a e u ni the wee o q y s, rtichok s , t r ps , s t p o he a a e w al e e i . T t to , y llo root c l d p c to th e a 1s ' e e in e arance a e an p lo pr cis ly, app , t st , d m l i e our e e but the wh c is e a en s ell , k c l ry, root, i h , t i e is e ffe en a n the a ea an e of bo l d , v ry di r t, h vi g pp r c weet a a s pot toe . ’ Y ou find a f eef and e a a e , lso , resh b pork , s p r t d f m the ne a t s eca ro bo nd cu into chunks ; carne , PROV ISIONS . 87

C, d ie eef cut in n h ome ime ( r d b , ) lo g strips ; t is is s t s

e ae w i a i e a t is . i l m pr p r d th l ttl s l , or sl ght y s ok ed,

and no mean invi n . T h e mutton thou h is by s ti g , g ma is e ce e n me fish but no a s ll, x ll t ; so , ve l, is ’ u ma e . a ca e bro ght to rk t Hog s l rd, ll d ma nteca

a e l n an a n ea e 18 in ea a Wr pp d pl t i l v s , sold gr t b un

' d nce and as w e as a i and ni n is u e a , , ll g rl c o o s , s d

e es e in kin . Fowl s turke s a e xc siv ly coo g , ‘ y , p rtridg s ,

i e n u ee e and a un ance , of e s are p g o s, d ck, g s , b d gg , met w t but no u e the i e u e f ei n i h, b tt r ; l ttl s d by or g

' e - i n in ers in a a a e n l m orte d . n an C r c s, b i g p I d cor ain and e a e n a u w a a gr , pr p r d i v rio s ys , is lso sold , ’ as w e s u ar w n and w i e the uice of the ll a s g , bro h t , j Y a find a mi u e of mo ane - and . ou c , honey lso xt r cil a e a n m a e a e a elon w ic is muc g d ol ss s , c ll d p p , h h h e is e the w e a e of e and ea en r l h d by lo r cl ss s p eopl , t fi the m l ik e fe e e a e it by e che se ; rm nt d with w t r, ie the i a i in e a n n uar a o. y lds i tox c t g dr k g p Br d, ma e of m ze e are a i e a f me d ai , is call d p ; w h l th t or d n a e ei een nc e in ia me erand i to l rg disks, ght i h s d t a u a f ma e fr m the ma bo t ourth of an inch thick , d o ia i is as i e e i e n c is c e ava . root, all d cas Th s l ttl r l sh d b a N h me an as the ar e n ea y ort A ric , p a, or cor br d , a u e is by E rop an. In a n t t e f e n and man er ar dditio o h or goi g, y oth

’ To obviate the ill effects of this excessive use of hog s lard the w er c as s have r a fai h in an ex erna a li , . l o l s e g e t t t l pp cation of I is sm eare u on a atc h of the same substance. t d p p

‘ ac si an stuc on the te m es to draw the rease from bl k lk, d k pl , g ’ the s s em It is th e verei n st thin on earth for the hea ~ y t . so g g d

ach e. 8 8 NOTES ON COLOMBIA .

“

f f t e ma ma a c ticl es o ood, h s ll nuf ctures of the comi " are be met w e e n of a try to ith Th s , co sist tob cco, ma e n e a e e en a e w e re ra d i to s g rs ; xc ll t, l rg , ll p po tioned ea enwa e a e ntai a e rth r v s s, to co nw ter ; chok in u en ma e of th e same a h as the g t sils d cl y, which “ property of standing the fire so w ell as to s up er »

f e e a m en i e the use of n for .this ur c d , l ost t r ly , iro p / e e e of a u f m a nd s1zes and pos ; v ss ls v rio s or s , s n and a e n eat ma e of a a a me poo s l dl s, ly d c l b sh or so

eau ifu a w a e n ma aw ' b t l h rd ood ; co rs cotto s , ts , str

‘

n of ea a e ee a c. h ats , stri gs b ds , b sk ts, Coff b gs, & w ne u e a e f r bat mu and ropes, t i , po ch s , h rn ss o les , ’ a in of e an a a e ara aters ma e k d sho s or s d ls c ll d p g , d the fi e of th e eaf of the a e me ana of br l Ag v A ric , or

‘

we n a e . an w i is f un w flo ri g lo This pl t, h ch o d gro mg In almost every p art of Colombia, affords a

tl on u a e fib e f m ree five fe e n . s g, d r bl r , ro th to t lo g i s a mi a a a a in a e e It d r bly d pted for m k g c bl s, rop s , ine coai s e and u i its a undan e tw , or cloth s ch s b c , th at sufficient quantities could be obtained to con t te e im an a ic e of c mme e e e s ti u a v ry port t rt l o rc , w r u a e ua i ie w i h a e een e e ex its d r bl q l t s , h c h v b t st d by

eri ment m e ene a n wn and u a u p , or , g r lly k o j stly p reciated p .

‘ T h e pi epared fib1 e of this pl ant is called Coa ui e he anda f e o a u not q s . T s ls Orm d f it, ltho gh so . mu w n ~l ll a a a s in he in e i n ch or C r c s a t t r or, co sti tutean) important article m the infant manufactures of t e u the u e of an e m d h co ntry, from n mb r h ds ploye n are w n to s upp ly the d aily cons umptl o . They or in a a a u e e an and C r c s by mech anics, ho s s rv ts,

' S O N O LO 90 NOTE C MB IA .

we e i efe en e the f mer va l atter, ho v r, W th r r c to or , ry in price . S ociety does not pres ent v ery animated and varie d pleas ures ; but that feeli ng of comfort is ex e en e i n mes i fe ea un f m p ri c d do t c li , w hich l ds to i or c e erf l ness d a i ene s h u a n cordi lity, un ted with polit s in e e of man e . e e e t a a a as n rs Th r xist a C r c s , v ry place wh ere a great ch ange in th e ideas is prep ar in two a e of men we m s a two n t g, r c s , ( ight y disti c

ene a on one of w i but a ma num e r e . g r ti s, ) , h ch s ll b r ma n e e e a n a a men for a n ent i s, pr s rv s stro g tt ch t ci u m m i i of m anne and m e a i n in c sto s, si pl c ty rs , od r t o i e e i e n in th e i ma es of th e th eir des r s . Th y l v o ly g a me a a ea em a e n ue p st. A ric pp rs to th prop rty co q r n e Abh orrm a e th e ed by th eir a c stors . g w h t is call d i e e of th e a e e e e e enl ght ned stat g , th y carefully pr s rv e a a i n h reditary prej udices as p art of their p tr mo y . T h e e e u e e en b th e e n oth r class , l ss occ pi d v y pres t

an th e fu u e a e a ens f en ill “ th by t r , h v prop ity, o t e f a s te u or ne an e . W en n j dg d, w h bits d id as h thi ene is a e the e of r i n re d y lli d to lov solid i nst uct o , strained and guide d by a strong and enlightene d

ea n its ffe e en ia o ie . r so , e cts b come b efic l t soc ty I

n w at a a a a th e ene a i n s e~ k o C r c s, mong e s cond g r t o , ve a men e ua u f r e a e for r l , q lly disting ish ed o th ir t st u the ne a nd the el st dy, mild s s of th eir manners, e va i n of ei en m a e a n w n men t o th r s ti ents . I h v lso k o , wh o dis a e in t , d l nl ng all th at is excell nt he ch arac ter th e e a u e a of th S ahiards , lit r t r , and the rts e p ,

‘ h a e e na na n i ua w u h av» v lost th ir tio l i d vid lity , itho t , in a ui e f e f e g cq r d rom their Conn xions with oreign rs, 1 SOCIETY . 9

any j ust id eas of th e real basis of happines s and ” N r Hami l) . P er . o . s ocial ord er .

ma w i ten in 1 8044 n in i ca e These re rks , r t , plai ly d t , a M de umb as c os e an e e in th e th t . H oldt is l obs rv r

the na u a w . S ince a ime political as in t r l orld th t t ,

the e e e s of c n ul n h a e e o e and af e l m nt o v sio v xpl d d, , t r es i g t e c un r fo e e ears are ne a d ol at n h o t y r tw lv y , rly e ex hausted by th e exces s of th eir ow n vi olence . T h re se w hi i s abou to uccee will be u po ch t s d, do bly w eet t t T e isin te m s from h e horror of h e confli ct. h r g le of li t be th u a e m re hi h p ber y will e more d r bl , o g ly rized a e te efen e as its f un a i n h as p , nd b t r d d d , o d t o been ai at a r eate e e n e of an iet t i an l d g r xp s x y, o l, d be enie h ow uc oev e it . cann m blood It ot d d , . h s r may be regre tte d by th e fri ends of s oci al order and c i ibe t a th e e w t mem er of th e iv l l r y, th t l ss or hy b s w d e umb e i nate cl ass hich 31 . H oldt d s g s as bein g f th e “ secon ene at n are but to num o d g r io , q ero us ; but ne e to be w n ere at nor av i e this is ith r o d d o d d . W e rarely h ave any good meted out to us without

s me c unte ai in e il . In th e e en instance o o rv l g v pr s t , e nme is e a is e f un e u on a free gov r nt st bl h d, o d d p th e o man and kn w e ed to be a a te rights f , ac o l dg d p d to t e fu e e men o his fa u ie b t h ll d v lop t f c lt s, o h physical and mora l ; instead of one ac owedly constituted ex r ess l to cu and enum e fa u tie as th p y rb b b thos c l s, e only means of p erpe tuating s ubje ction to th e p arent state in e w w e h a e fea not ; oth r ords, v , (I r th e im ut ican can iber for p ation of rep ubl t, ) l ty oppres si th on. T h e attend ant evil is e tempor ary exa lta tion of men cal culated neither to adorn nor im ' NOTES on c oLOMBIA

e but on the n a n n ure prove s oci ty ; , co tr ry, pro e to i j e am e en e e m e a e it by th eir x pl , r d r d or b n ful by th e influence of the rank and consideration ‘ which th ey B l as h as e e n . ut i ev1 en n nt e joy th s , b said, is o ly t

orar whil e tbe enefi e manen . T he ua p y, ‘ b t is p r t q

" i ati s a da n er ea to die l fic on of ri g soldi , r dy do or , are not alw ays unite d w ith thos e required to fi rm a d an s ea ea e i zen . In war ea an good p c bl c ti , h rts h d are most in request ; those w h o poss ess th em /must

“ u e the a en an in ea e e e ui e are r l sc d t ; p c , oth r r q sit s necess ary ; Consid eration will be obtaine d by thos e pos s es s mg qualifications ad apted to th e actual state

- f ci e . f e a fe w ea of ea the u h o so ty A t r y rs p ce, ro g unlettere d soldier must yield his place to th e intel , ent and cu i a e ze T n i mines lig lt v t d citi n h e ov ho , e ef e h o a e no in e mme em but th r or , w h v th g to r co nd th e f n ne for i e u a an fe w th ir o d ss rr g l rity d stri , ill soon e e1 i uence nd as th e m e a l os th r nfl ; a , stor th y h ve

e e i e w n int obli io an : dir ct d s ubs d s, ill si k o v n d con

T he ame au e w a e i n ea e a s c s s hich h v cr s d this cl s s,

’ h a e inne the e wh o i e onl in th e ma v th d oth r, l v y i ges ” ' of th e a . N wi an in the re udices and p st ot thst d g p j x i a a e an e u an .ma e u a e t p thy, r p blic y ‘ b s ppos d to h v

‘ i mbib e d agai nst . a man w ho h ugs his chain and glo

‘ e i n his n a e it is im ossibl e see a ea ri s bo d g , p to r l ol d hidal ‘o a e e m i e g , wr pp d in his scarl t e bro d red a fu e i uin f m his " obscure e i e nce clo k , rtiv ly ss g ro , r s d , u ex erien at a e a Witho t p cmg a r egret his lter d st te .

' S tri ed of d ffice ut u pp his honours an o , b too pro d to w h e “ e e t ork, xists on a pittanc , oo small for an O ETY S C I . 3

r f o th A nch orite, most probabl y de ived r m e l abour

(if an attache sl a e wh o refers o lin for his a . d v , p t i g n cie nt master to rece1v1ng th e freedom Within his reach rovm b th s s in l e ai bo h his own ; p g, y i g tr t, t rth and h a of th e man h e s er es Wo t t v . Without s uffer n a n aud bl e comlain to ass is li i g i p t p h ps, With no care but to conceal the bitternes s of his

m s er from th e .u s ar s ar und him h e un f rml i y p t t o , i o y

‘ res e r es is h l s h c a i th e erf p v h p i o op i gr v ty, p ect d e os ne of his anal ent an ra h r Worn cos y d t e tume, and

' th e maj estic dignity of his s tep: He th us drags outa l on l fe in s oli ude and o er us ec ed and g i , t p v ty, s p t . ' des is ed e o ed to reli on ofi erin ‘ ra ers f p , d v t gi , g p y or l h i be erdinan and s us ained al ne b s l oved F d, t o y a contempl ation of the h eight from Which f h e h as ‘

- fallen i h uta feebl e ra of h o e of ever \ ascen , w t b y p d i to illumi ne his dar des a r. ng it, k p i

T he titl e Don is no l onger gi ven to a ny one -l n

ol mbia—u Us ted a n abreviatio n of our rac G o , y g e, is in a d e s e a s fre quently use d d r s mg s rv nt . T he European dress 1s worn by the gentl emen

Th e only modificationy is th e al mos t cons tant ad~ a th or a ion of cl o k , wi out sl ee e s c e ut dit a , v p , p o n mo ' fre uen l to conceal an w ant o ro r eté st q t y , y f p p ,

in the under dres s Wh en 'call ed out s uddenl , y, tha n

on accoun of the clima e . T h e r e s s wear the t t p i t , arb of th eir re s ec i e? orders each be n d sti g p t v , i g i n

‘ l es ea e or trather ellow and t e rana it W r whit , y , h F 944 NOTE S O N oonoum A .

' ciscans grey ; with a l arge felt h atresemblingthose of our Quaker Th e men generally are rath er under th e common

ize h a e s all ow com l ex ons bla hair and e es , p i , ck y , [ v w e - d b and ll turne l im s . i

’ In mb st of the l ar e tow ns forei n merch an s g , g t are es abl sh ed r nci all n l s h rench and t i , p i p y E g i , F ,

T h e ore f r “ an ar ~ er a . s s u n s e h m G m ns t , i h d wit y ti

' l es of uro ean l uxur occu th e ri nc al e E p y, py p ip s r s and are s o arran ed as to a e the bes t eet , g . m k t

' ar t e re e t dis l a of th e w es . Th e re a l s or s a p y , i t k p ' b the Oreol es in w h ch are to be foun th e ch ea er y , i d p

i l es of forei n dr - oods and th e fabr cs of art c g y g , i

‘ t e countr . A l ow er ord r of s h o s e al so h y e p , k pt ( the na es of the coun r con ain a uardiente by tiv t y, t g ,

~d s till ed li uor from ram chicha and uara o a i q g , g p , drin s res emblin c der and s mall beer made of k g i , h is fermented mal ze and papelon . Chic a met with

' ’ at al mos t every h ous e on the road,afi ordiug a very

ot e e h aus ed ra ell e m be era e t h x r. Ma pl eas ant v g , t t v r icl es of rocer are s old in es e s ho s as ny a t g y th p , w ell as re ared mea s s aus a es f1 u1ts and ve e p p t, g , g

br ad o acco and enerall such a h ete e tabl es , e , t b , g y e ueous a r en as is to be found n our cou rog ss o tm t, l n s tore try s . O n accoun of th e hea of th e m ddl e of the da t t i y, th e mornl ng l s appropriated to business . About

un- r s e and e befo th h urch es are V1s1ted s i , ev n re, e c ” b the more de ou mar e n and o her bus mes s y v t, k ti g t

ended to n the s r till x breakfas t en a e att i t eet, y g g ments Within- debrs, then» occupy the principal S IE S TA . 95

— o nh ab a ll d nner af er h ch part f the i it nts, ti i , t w i

' th Siesta foll ows . A t his eriod of the da the e t p y,” — er e an t e s ho s cl osed n l in s treets are d es t d d h p , o iv g be t e s een exce s ome r i n indefati a i ng i s o b , pt p y g, g bl e curious fore ner wh ose reliance on th e , ig , vi ” our of his mu cl e and confidence l n the ren h g s , st gt of his undebil a ed nor h ern cons u on rom s it t t tit ti , p pt ,

n f Thi him to brave th e i nfluence of a vertical s u . s practice of foreigners has gi ven u se to a s aying

‘ mon th e C reoles more ch arac er zed b . ru a g , t i y t th

h a cour es t t ‘ one but do s and n l is h m n t n t y, h a n g E g e wal k the s treets at mid - day intending to i ncl ude his in i all forel gners by th at term. T d scriminate a e accoun ed for from th e circu ~ pplication may b t , m s tance of the Engl ish h avmg been the first who

' came to th e country in any numbers ; th ey w ere rmci all merch an s and officer of th e ' arm p p y t s y . S ca ered in er uar er heir n uence h a n tt ev y q t , t i fl s ot be l e e C ons antl referrin e en id y mploy d . t y g very

“ hin to n l and as the s andard of erfec ion e -a t g E g , t p t , x tellin h er o er and rich es i n th e nam g p W , g vi g e n lis h to all oo s Wh e h er manufac ured E g g d , t t in rance German or the as he h a e rod uce F , y, E t ; t y v p d belief amon th e uninformed C reol es hat e a g , t ev ry ’ th n not S anis h mus be n lish conse uen l i g p , t E g ; q t y,

’ on finding a pe rs on Who s peaks S panis h imper

' ’ ectl wh ch he consider a rea mar of i no f y, ( i t y g t k g rance h e s et him down at once as an n l s h ,) t y , , E g i

man .

a e to T he peopl e of C ai acas pay much . tt ntion t e The fe es C nec ed h external forms of religl on. t on t NOTE S O N C OLO M 96 BI A .

on are extre mel nu ero s e e with r eligi y m u , att nd d ense om and th e w as e of m h me with e xp , p p, t uc ti , in it is s aid to one h und red a nd for amount g, , ty s excl us e Of S unda s so h a ncl ud n th e d ay , iv y ; t t, i i g

‘ bba h ore than h alf e e ar is os to ih S a t , m th y l t

e eli l ous c remon es w h ba l s and mu Th se r g e i , it l Of h ch the C ol ombians are ass ona el fond sic, w i p i t y , c ons titute the public amus ements hea re ca abl e Of con a n n abou e h h un A t t , p t i i g t ig t rs n is o en on da s Of fe e and crowded dred pe o s, p y t , s s no w h s andin the ndifference of th e to exce , t it t g i / h e Ol d h d the e formance . - T ea re estro ed b p r t t , y y a e was ca abl e f on f en or earthqu k , p o c taini ng fi te ndre e s on In th s em o eighteen h u d p r s . e pre ent t p build n the boxes are di e s ual rary i g, vided i n th u anner e are fill ed wi h famil ar es who m ; th y t y p ti , are obli ed to brm w h h em ch airs or s ea s of g g it ‘ t , t

ome ind as his con enience is not ro de d . s k , t v p vi Th e pit h as neith er roof nor floor ; the price of ad

‘ m1ss1on 1s twenty - five cents ; the police cons isting of SIX or s even s oldiers being stationed about the s e i h h ou w mus e s under Ch ar e Of an Officer. t k t , g T h e declama ion IS om ous th e ac ion mech a: t p p , t

‘ nical u erl de oid of race o a u e Dur n the , tt y v g r n t r . i g ' erformance a bufioon h ol s os s ess l on Of th e p , d p s a e wh e t g , o endeavours to make the inter s t ca n ” tre in h msel f coal s e wit rl mace and the as i , b y , g , tonishing pliability Of the features Of his ch apeau Tennis courts and billiard rooms are frequented b t ose n a n con y h i s earch Of amusement . G mi g

/ O TE S O N O LOM 98 N C BI A .

i abolition oftitl es of nobility and th e Marques del ‘

“ ‘ T om w as one of th e firs t to ‘ relinquis h his titl e at mm n t e re l e e co e emen of h o on . h l a th c t v uti T . tter is

one of the Ol dest eneral Offi ers o th e e ubl c g c f R p i , but lives at pres ent in philos oph ical retirement at the li le ll a e Of A n imano a fe w l ea ues from tt vi g t , g

’ tu e n is o n s s er i He s ll es es a n i h c u try v ce . ti poss s s l endid com etenc and if h e re re th e dimina p p y, g ts ion of his for une it is onl because it circum t t , y l scribes his ability to extend th e h os pitality of his al ho ma s and l n ne ed n i a r of to l w of it. A de of o , y t i ’ i the princely ex en of the Marques del Toro s es { t t tablis hment before the revol ution cannot be ' better

' on e ed han b th e fac Of his e si n a h c v y , t y t poss s g t ou sand en l e h ors es at one ime nor of his unbounded g t t ; , ; h os al i han b th e men ion Of ~ a famous en er pit ty, t y t t ’ nment e a to a umerous com an w hich tai h g ve n p y, as e d we da s th e ex ense of each da bein l t t nty y , p y g o a s es timated at one thousand d ll r . T he Marques is al w ays a ddressed in society by

’ his i l e his r es is no doub ex end ed to t t ; t cou t y , t, t \ him the more willin l in cons dera on of th e nu g y, i ti reservednes s with w hich h e came forward and re .

' nounced his re ens ons to s u eriorit . Nor 1s hi s , p t i p y t ' ’ s a s edate l le. rai w h ou its moral : e nce itt t t it t it vi _

‘ nes s on the part of th e republicans l n the h our Of r um h i to trifles which do t i p , and an ndiffere nce , ' not efiect th e es s ence of e qual ity ; and s h ows th at th e re vol ution h as been conducted in ‘ a s pirit es nt h ch rom s men in se ially difih rent from th at, w i p pt ‘ LA E DI S . 99

“ l nd e l to s r e at ever e th eir b i z a t ik y thing xal ted . r obl e fo no her ur ose han to re o n , r ot p p t duce all to T he th eir own common l evel . influence of the same feeling h as w ithhel d their harnds from defac m Of rt becaus e cr u en s , a o 1ng mon t a , wn or coronet

“ a a e been s am ed u on the s tone m y h v t p p . This a ‘ f rouche republicanis m is rather ultra ; prudery is ' no more a mark Of honesty in politicians than in

Women . The Ladi es of Caracas are rarely to be s een in the s ee - exce er earl in he morni o h r tr t, pt v y y t ng n t ei fa Wa to church . he o in m l artl es a y T y g i y p , ttended

‘ b fe mal e s er an s carr in car e s to neel u o y v t y g p t k p n. A s ere are no ew s or bench es in t e ch urch th p h es, i and as th e cere mon es are wi nes sed on the i t k nees, the tasteful little rug is an indispens abl e part of ’ the delica e de o ee s ch urch e ui a e for nde t ‘ v t q p g ; , i pende ntly of the extreme painful nes s of th e pos ure wh en con inued an l e n h of ime the dam t , t y gt t , p ness of th e cold marbl e Or brick pavement woul d b e likely to prove l tlJll I‘l Oll to th e h eal th without d h ese oc as mns IS .T h e ress orn on c them. . w t not ' ‘ very becoming : it consis ts o f a bl ack veil and pet

” his dres s as ori nall re ul red to be of ticoat. T w gi y q t a e uff er c he a for all cl as se to re e h e s m s t , v y p, sh mind the ri ch Of the equality of all ranks in the

th e Crea r h as become, r ex pres ence of to . It ve y ens1 e h owe er bein made of th e r ch e sil s p v , v , g i st k , c here is al s o much rivalr in velvets, and l a es . T , , y regard to this dres s ; those who can ill afford it un de rgoing every pr1vation and s acrifice to e qual th e ' 100 O TE S O N C O LOMB N I A .

endour o h ose in more affl uen c1r s pl f t t cumstances . A mas s is us uall cel ebra ed before s unrise t na y t , o e bl e thos e to attend wh os e occupations or w ant of decen clo hes fo bid h e n t e at t t r t m enteri g h ch urch a. a er O ne 1 al o e l t hour . s s s aid ev ry h our du1 ing the m0 1 n1n s o h a each h as a n O or ni of wit g, t t pp tu ty nes sin his es se n ial cei emon e r a ma g t t y ve y d y . It y be o in to h s fre uen re e i on of exercis es hat w g t i q t p t ti , t s o few are to be found e n a ed l n h eir de o o s i g g t v ti n

Mas s w e fre uen l s a d in at an one ime . s y t e q t y i , er o ul ous o ns to not more han s ix or ei ht v y ip p t w , t g o me n T he me n are much l ess as si uous hos e w . d ; t r l ibe ral e u a ion a nd w ho e n o the Of a mo e d c t , j y i hes Offi ces a nd cons dera on con en e h g t i ti , t t th m a sel ves with tte nding once a week . T h e l adies appear to much greater adv antage at o e or at a din er o r e e nin entertal nme nt h m , n v g , h e r w h e n dres s e d in th e E uropean mode . T i com l xions not as brillia as hos e Of more nor hern p e , nt t t limaes are s ill s uffi i n l cl ear to be hi hl c t , t c e t y g y

l eas n . h eir h a r is e nerall dar and he p i g T i g y k, t ir l n e es of cl ear i uid bl a win to t ar l c . O h s p k i g y , q k g e uns ettl ed . state of affairs during an exterminating

w ar of wel e ears and the w an of forei n. mas t v y , , t g ers he r s in enera ion ar enerall deficien t , t i g g t e g y t in

‘

ac uiremen s . S ome how e er are to be found w ho q t , v , s eak a l l e n lis h and a rea er number x os p itt E g , g t , p

‘ se s s ing a knowl e dge of Frenchy united with the os a miabl nd manners and O h e m t e a fascinating , t r emal e accom lis h e s f p m nt . Dancm music li on and a en on to th g, , re gi , tt ti e

E O N C OLO M 102 NOT S BI A .

’ a semble be ween aud i o o cl o The pany s t 9 ck .

1s fine and in er ecul ar s l e T he ' mus1c , a v y p i ty . figures of the dances are somewhat like the English

a - dances but much more n r ca e e e ant contr , i t i t ; l g Waltzing be1ng s ubstituted for the awkward racmg ” o n th e m d l e and u a al u of the n lis d w i d p g , E g h

a ce . h es e are al erna ed w i h the circul ar al z d n T t t t w t , In wh ch the C ol omb ans d s l a much race and i i i p y g , fe nowl ed e f e t th e e er a nment a per ct k g o tim . A nt t i ’ S mo s da e m arrie l ven on S t. n th en l e e c d g i y, g t n

’ th e refres hmen s o he l ad es on a er no .s er t t t i w it s ,

i all t t his de a v ants be ng owed o enter h e room. In t i at en ion th e de oted alla r of t S a l c e att t , v g nt y he p niard is cons i cuous . T h e s u er ons s ed of ; p pp c i t e er varl et of con ec onar in ma i w h h th e v y y f ti y, k ng ic C reol es e mi nently excel ; and th e decorations were in th e mos s um uous st le and so dis osed as to t pt y , r p o to t a T h e es w ere h ave an all usi n h e occ sion. win

’ ell n h cord al s a eira muscadel and the exc e t; ric i , M d , , 1nsp1r1ng ch ampal gn flowed in abundance ; yet our E nglis h vice of exces s on these occasions 1s never du ed n b th e in lg i y C ol ombians . [ C AP H TER V I.

— E NE RA L DE SCRIPTIOh s OITIE S T O W S A N —‘v G , N , D VILLA GE S

C URC E S- J PR A TE O S E S H H IV H U .

A S the ci es owns and ll a es of C ol om ti , t , vi g bia, as well as the ublic and r ae buildin s ar p p iv t g , e con s ruc ed u on a uniform l an it ma e t t p p , b well to a t , y em a eneral des r i n A n m t pt g c ipt o . y odifications in the ar icul ar cons ruc ion of each n p t t t , ca s abse uen l be no iced s h e res en h e ms e q t y t a t y p t t l ves . The citi es towns and villa es — h , , g T e a streets are a mos in riabl s trai h cros s l t va y g t, each other at r h an l es the mos ar i t e ig t g , t p t, n h cardinal oin s formin bloc s or s uares Of fro p t , g k q m three to

five h undred fee a s de . T he are from en t t i y, tw ty o wen five fee broad and exce i t t ty t , , pt n h e s mall er ll a es nea l a ed w th rounded s ones h a n vi g , t y p v i t , vi g th e sl o e to the cen re rou h which a l i p t , th g mpid s ream o s In mos ns ances s er in for h o t fl w t i t , v g us e h old ur oses a nd in an air of neatnes s an p p , giv g d f e h nes to the s re hes e w hen a ed r s s e . are t ts T , p v , k e exceed n l cl ean not h ow e er from bein pt i g y ; , v , g fre uen l s w e buton accoun of an excelle q t y pt, t nt po l ce re ul a on wh ch ‘forb ds an h n offens e i g ti , i i y t i g iv bein h o n n o them w hich th e s ream s, not a g t r w i t , t i c

ahl e of con e n aw a . T h e frons of the h ouses p v yi g y t , as well a th e t e ar e t in e cellen or e s s r ets, e k p x t d r ; but th e encl osures in the rear present . a disgusting OTE S ON C OLOM N BI A . mas s of fil h th e coll ec ion of ears h c ul d t , t y , w i h wo g ro e in ur ous to ublic h eal h i n so h ot a c a e p v j i p t lim t , ere it not for the ex reme dr ne s of th ir a w t y s e a , nd the exer ions Of a race of sca en ers w h s ora t v g , o e v cions and indiscriminate appetite prompts them to the mos Offens e food . hes e an mal s call ed a t iv T i , g

' li azos are of the ul ure ind resemblin in a e p , v t k , g p pearance a mix ture of the north ern crow and the

' a A ac con en d e buzz rd . t it v tion h as b een entere m to between th ese bipeds and thos e of a s pecie s not avm the advan a e of l uma e el d n ro eo h g t g p g , yi i g p t o for ser i es he are h erefo e e l es ti n v c . T y t r nev r mo ted,

me er ame and are s e t ll m . beco v y t , e n a a ti es perch the roof o ed upon t ps . T he uniform cours e in found n a ow n a ear i g t , pp s to h a e been to l a out a s uare Of f o v , y q r m th ree to five h undred fee which is call ed the laz O ne t, p a .

' s ide is appropriated for the ch ur ch that opposite or th e cabildo and if a arr son ow n a hird side f ; , g i t , t b a th r hus is is occupied y barr ck s for e t oop s . T it h a the hree rders sl t in the hi h l aces s een, t t t o g p

occupying. th e three sides of th e political as well as f the mumc1 al s ua e he1r connexion and rel o p q r , t i ‘ ance u on each o h er for Su ort a nd oun enance p t pp c t , his dis o are a aren . Th e o er s ecured b s pp t p w , y t p i ion and union w as ca abl e o wi hs andin for t , p f t t g

h ree cen ur ll e a me s a em ed b th e t t l es , a ncro ch nt tt pt y four h side hich a ied b hem ma be t , w , s occup y t , y ermed h a of the e t t t p op le . i In many vill age s , the s quare only 1s bu lt upon. ” In s ome ins a es it s not e en com l e el en t nc , i v p t y

106 O T E S O N C O LO M N BI A .

all and e en at th e l ar e haciendas l an a s m , v g , (p t is a e o s here n mmens church . hose of th e ti n . t i T er ill a es al e cons ruc ed of h c mud w all s poor v g t t t i k , n h a ched roOfs wi h ro ec n ea es wh ch h avi g t t t p j ti g v , i l each nearly to the ground ; givi ng to th os e buil d

more th e a earance of a ca l e - sh ed or h u e ings pp tt , g

h a - s ac h ana e m l e dedica ed to th e s er ice y t k , t t p t v

' a i h f to th e fron of rel i ion . A con nu on of t e roo g ti t t,

u h el d b os s forms a en - h ous e ro ec on from p y p t , p t p t ti “ h e an ra in u nder th e s h e l er of w h ch th t s un d ; t i , e os si s are see n in l l e no s en a ed in fr endl g p itt k t , g g i y

h a re ousl to en erin the ch urch . S ome mes c t, p vi y t g ti h e wh ol e fron is O e n and in one 1ns tance at t t p ; , ,

“ S an a - A na re ndered famous b the mee o t , y ting f l ar and Morillo no ar Of the l ar e e ncl u B o iv , p t g os re

r ofed exce h a immed a el o er th e al ar. is o , pt t t i t y v t n h r h es of h s descri ion ima es and I c u c t i pt , g pict ures the illa e ch s el and encil are t from v g i p , o be met with ; as w ell as engrave d portraits of s ome noted men of uro e ba ized and nel to as the w o E p , pt k t , r i Mar re res n ed in th e cos a d Vi g n y, p e t tume n head

dres s of1 t e a e of ueen lizabe T h e al r h g Q E th . ta s are e x re mel uncou h bedaubed h re d b ue t y t , wit , l , and ell ow ain and co ered w h s i s Of co e y p t, v it tr p pp r and tin—fo l th e oors Of cl a s ome cons i ; fl y . In pi cuous ar a w ax or woo - o i a e Of t p t, , d w rk m g he a ron s a n is s ea ed On a aud h rone dres se p t i t, t g y t , d in ims finer s u l e from th e scan w ardrobes fl y y, pp i d ty Of th e h rc devout dames of th e pl ace . In the c u h of

S an a - A na which is rinci all in Vie w the can e t , p p y , dl esticks of the altar a e Of common cla ne her r y, it

8 O T E S O N C O LO MB 10 N I A .

unl es s s ome res traint h ad been imposed upon them. o des cr be one herefore is to e an id T i , t , giv ea of

al l . Th e material s v ary according to th e cl imate or

" el e a ion and the fac li of rocurin hem from v t , i ty p g t , th e common cane O f w hic h th e h ous e n t e Ma , s o h g d al ena are cons ruc ed to the m ore d l ne t t , urab e o s Of s tOne or bric ei h er burn or merel ba i , k t t y ken n

th e Sun and mor ar. But b far the mos common , t y t a erial and h s a lies to er excell e n h ous es m t , ( t i pp v y t , l as to the mos indifferen is the s oil a e as w el t t, ) t k n

’ i ndis criminately from the vicinity of th e s pot se e for th e bu ldin w hich is mix e d w h a li l ect d i g, it ttl e

i e s raw and w a er . his com ound is calle l m , t , t T p d o i t p c . A l arge bed of this moistened earth bei ng pre ared a form or moul d of l an s abou five fe t p , p k t e l on hre e fee t hi h and we n - tw o inches hic g, t g , t ty t k, el d o e her w h cl am s a d w e d es an i h t g t it p n g , d w th out to or bo to is laced u on a ar of th l i p t m, p p p t e ne race d o t e T h e ear h ” he t u for th s tructure . t is t n hrow n in o th e form b men ro de wi h s ma t t y , p vi d t ll s ack s made of ra w hides ; w hil e tw o oth ers w ho s tand ins ide the mould beat it dow n with rammers till it becomes compact ; more is added till the form fill e e he i s d ; T he w edges a nd cl a mps ar t n take n off and the lan of t ld remo ed l ea in , p ks he mou v , v g a mas s Of r ammed earth of th e s hape and dime n s ons Of the form res emblin a l ar e unburn i , g g t bric l ace e ~ his o era ion is co k p d upon its edg . T p t n nned a in a t the o e ti , t k g c re to l e l wer course becom

OTE S O N C O LO M N BI A .

T he fron on th e s uare 68 fee de h t q , t ; pt , 140 feet . T he body of th e buildi ng 1s in th e form of a hollow s uare encl os n a nea l a ed cour nclinin q , i g t y p v t, i g en l to th cen re wh ere a dram 1s s un to a g t y e t , k c rry '

Ofl the ra from th e roofs . hese o t i n T , n h e side bu ldin s s lo e nwards half of hose O t i g , p i ; t f h e front

and rear bil ildin s nclin n one .to the s treet th e g i i g, , _

’ T his eco oth er to a s econd s quare . s nd s quare is en cl osed in front by the rear b uilding of th e firs t on one s ide b the i ch en the o her s q uare , and , y k t , t tw o s id es being completed by mud w al ls fifteen h uare is al s o ed and h as it f i . is s eet h gh T q pav , s in back ards a re t o h s a i . x end w w o er u r dra n E t g t q es,

" encl os ed b h h mud w all s the firs con ainin y ig , t t g

‘ Offices and ser n as the rec acl e Of fil h fro , vi g ept t m th e i chen th e l as a ro ria ed as a arden th e k t , t pp p t g ; - w hol e depth of th e plat being two hundred and

w en -six fee di d ed as foll ows : T he fron t ty t, vi t bu ldin hir - six fee the s ide build n s be i g, t ty t, ( i g ing

’ ut four een th e s uarevcourt for fee the rea b t q , ty t ; r

build n wen - fou fee s econd cour for i g, t ty r t t, ty

‘ fee h rd enclos ure h r - six fee arden fif t ; t i , t i ty t ; g , ty

‘ T he o l en ra c to h s s ru ure w hich a n y t n e t i t ct , p pears to h ave been buil t upon th e principl e th at ’ e er ma s h o s e is his cas l is b a rea door v y n u t e, y g t , cal culated to admit a hors eman with ease ; it be in th i e n o the house g e cus tom for visiters to r d i t ,

d s mo i the foo of th e s airs . i unt ng in th e court, at t t Th e fron und oor are ren ed for t rooms on th e gro fl , t

s tores or rocer . the h a e each a door , g y s h ops ; y v HOU SE S . M t

e in nto th e s ree but no w indow . n a r op n g i t t , , a d e

n ec ed wi h th e hous e ~T he s ide rooms o not co n t t . f baseme nt s or are rou hl finis h ed and s the t y, g y , erve to s tore forage ; the rear of the sam e s tory being th e s abl e and the s ace under th e i ch e n ser n t , p k t vi g

f r th s ame ur ose . hus it is seen h a o e p p T , t t no

ar Of th e l ow er“ s or is occu ied b the famil . p t t y p y . y T h e en rance is nea l a ed and s ecured t t y p v , at night by tw o doors or gates , which re main Open ' d urin the da - one be n the s ree door th g y i g t t , e ” o h er s ua ed .at th e ex remi Of th e as sa e t , it t t ty p g ,

/ e d e Af formed by th en of th s hop. ter pas s ing the s eco d oor ou urn to th e ri h and f n d , y t g t, ace the foo of th e s taircas e which is at t e o ~ t , h ppo

S e ex re mi of the buildin . O n as s1n to h it t ty g p g t is, you ha ve a vie w of the paved court and gall e ries o erh an in it on th e eft h and hrou h h ree v g g , l , t g t

ell - ro or ione d arc he s as w ell a s of he s a bl w _ es p p t , t t e ond furn s hed wi h a corres ondin number of b y , i t p g rch es ser in to diminis h in s ome e ree th e e a ; v g , d g , x m l ea a earance o f th e s ruc ure aus ed tre e y h vy pp t t , c t normousl hic w all s and the s mal l num by he e y t k ,

ber and diminutiv e size of th e doors . and windoWs l l ea e our hors e s el er It is in th is pas s age you v y , h t d fr m th e s un or rain and con inuin onwards e o , t g , ta r ase h l eads to a a i s e mount th e s 1 c , whic sp c ou n

tr . or h all ha in hree arches o enl n n o the y , v g t p g i t

' l t e ur on one s ide the en rance to th gal ery of h co t , t e

sitting roombei ng on th e other. The court on the second s tory 15 surrounde d by

a all er c d b con nua on of the roof su = g y, overe y a ti ti p N O TE S O N C OLO MBI A

d on ill ars . his all er abou fi e porte p T g y, t v feet w ide furnis h ed W1th bal us rades ser es to commo , t , v ate wi h the d fferen rooms w h ch all o en mc t i t , i p into it as w ell as w i h th e as sa e l eadin hrou h th e , t p g g t g rear bu l d n to the i ch en al so n th e s econd i i g k t , O s or a nd fu1 n1s h ed in l e mannel wi h it al t y, , ik , t s g l er O f communica on l oo n n o its ro er y ti , ki g i t p p ua e s q r . rom th e all the h ea of thes airs ou ass F h , at d t , y p

‘ to the sittl - 1 oo his room communica es wi h ng m. T t t a O n th e th e b l cony by a gl azed fol ding door . 1 1 h t 1s th e ch a ber of s a e a 1 o rl ated for s ran g m t t , pp p t a in wi do in fl ou T the l ef is a ers h one w . o g , v g n t t l ar e fold n door o e n n n o th e d n n 1 oom g i g , p i g i t i i g , which h as two gl azed w indows extending to th e oor o en n like r fol din doors a nd conduc n fl , p i g g , ti g al o to h e bal con which commands a ie w Of t s t y, v h e a hes e hree rooms ma be hr s treet nd pl aza . T t y t own o one h us affOrdl n accommoda on for t i nt , t g ti he l ar es rl vate en r a nmen be n six - i h e g t p te t i t, i g ty e g t f et

len h ; d o nin th e dinin - room are ho e 111 gt A j i g g , t s of b e i h co mun ca e w th th e a l er y th e u l r , wh c m t , i t i g l , ' l eadin to the i ch en. ch ambers g k t , and in the rear o er th e s abl e a l ar bal or S U ~ , v t , ge l P ‘

4 O N M 11 k NOTE S C O LO BI A .

' some hin li e bul - window s enablin one s treet, t g k k , g o ect the head be ond the line of h ouses and to pr j y ,

f thus command a v1e w up and dow n th e s treet . Th ese grated windows h ave al together a v ery

is a reeabl e a earance su es in th e idea l of d g pp , gg t g !

” confineme nt and res trai nt ; for w hich purpose they in ro u e n a for er a b th e Were doubtl es s t d c d i m ge, y

‘ s us p1c1ous j eal ousy of the S pani ards, in order to render more difii cul t th e s tolen int erview s betw een

“ t e all an aball er o a nd his l o el ena orata h g t c v y m ,

' “ made faith l es s by th e injurious w ant of confidence

” and the unmanl usa e of h er l ord M anners are y g . now ch an ed et the ancien us a e is e u g , y t g k pt p. From th e dis proportionate number of women i n this

' oun r eal ous is ransferr t t e c t y, j y t ed o h sex mos talive /

to its 1m res s w n a nd l eas ab e t uard a a ns ts, p , t l o g g i t i '

- i and its l a n e t caus e or w h s b s ec s . , t t ti g fi

' T h e window - frames bal us rades and doors are , t , , th e only w ood - w ork exposed to view ; th e l atter are hands omel anel ed a d al nted or * curl ousl y p l n p , y carved ; th e two former generally remai n unpaint

ed . In the arm lima es a s mall 1nseet des ro s w c t , t y the car en er - or of th e h ouses b reduc n the p t w k , y i g ood to w der W po . T he h ouse j us t described is built of bricks bak ed “ i n th e s un u on a founda on of stone ris n a fe w , p ti , i g

nch es abo e th e round to uard a ains mo s ure . i v g , g g t i t W h en b t uares the h ouses uilt on any of h e public sq , , f of two o ar u f l ffurnis hed w h a bal i s t n es, e ni orm y it ou t of s eein to advan c y, affordin an o or un y g pp t i . g ta e th e rel i ious oces s ions bull - fi hts and o her g g pr , g , t

“ sh ows which take pl acein them. CHAPT ER

J — —e - — JOURNEY DE PA RTURE F R O M CA RA CA S SA Ne PE DRO VIC — — T oRIA SA rf- MA TE o- BOL IV A R SUGA R PLA NT A T IO N

— - ‘ — Ma n n cny V A LE NC IA L A KE TA CA RIGUA RE A SA NTRY - A GUA S CA L IE NTE S

N ovember 12th . hrou h th e ood offices of our T g g . a en i e h os Dr ors h ' tt t v t, . F yt , compl eted our — purch ases of camp equipage and oil - cl o h cloa s tea s u ar ch ocol e t k ; , g , at , and a cell ent m ul es , which cost

' from one ' h undred and th r to i ty, one h undred and

“ ‘ se en doll ars a l ece sa dles br dles & - v ty p , d , i , c. and bein ro ided wi h two s er an s a ne ro P e er g p v t v t , g , t , from one of th e isl ands who s o e re nch E n , p k F , g

‘ l s h and S an sh and aC reo e of C aracas a nue i , p i , l , fM l,

‘ who s poke only his native tongue- we reduced our

” ba a e to the s malles om as s hired hree mul gg g t c p , t es

'

r its rans or a ion as far ' a s alencia fo t p t t V , with two ’ h rs for th e ser an s and s et out at te o ot e v t , n cl ock orn n escor ed b our Ca this m i g, t y kind racanian

‘ We s o ed a bou noon at a ml se able e t t pp t r v n a, ’ or mul e eer s bai in l ace at Las - A un a h t t g p , j t s, t e meeting of S an- Ped ro and Macar

‘ r ers w h ch form th e Gua ra nine ml iv , i y ,

town .to a e s ome refres hmen . We Could scarcel , t k t y

credi or ha . is t a e f Dr. h tthe d t he ss rtion o F syt , t us n are no e en ed and the m sera le ho el g ti g f w pr s t , i b v NOTE S O N COLOMBIA ;

h s h el ered us oul d ro e hi hl a e whic t , w p v g y cceptabl

e e ot t W e fe i » befor w o end . l n g , t li ed to a r bu t e fr e dl re s n s c n tt i te h i n y mon tra ce , now r en l r a ed a am t o r n the u g t y epe t , g s u undertaki g ourne to a ol e ex re sm ern ' for our“ j y, p it p s n of conc w elfare an o er es ima e of th e d fficul es and an , , v t t i ti , nde al a on of ur ca a ili of en urin fa u r. v u ti o p b ty d g

tigue. f en s m h i h on d nce We took leave of our ri d g c fi e , and began to ascend the group of mountains call ed i uerote w hich se ara es the all e of C arac s H g , p t v y a

‘ u t e o t n u na ista t a A ra a b h m un a B e v . from h t o f g , y i T his mountain richly des erve s its name ; it com

» e i e w of C aracas from an el e a on mands a fin V , v ti t e ea determl ned b umbold Of five above h s , y H t,

' "

. - thous and three hundred and h r six feet . T he l t i ty d es cent to S an- Pedro is about one th ousand nine

ndred a h e fee wh ch l ea es hree h ou» h u nd eig t en t, i v t t s and four h undred and eighteen feet for the eleva a

on of h a v ll a e . .ti t t i g

e arr ed l n the e enin at S a - r el e W iv v g n Ped o, tw v ’ i l es ma n for our firs d s ou e ent m , ki g t ay j rn y tw y one miles . T t h e moun a n ro h ch affor ome of. h t i ad, w i ds s e mos ex ens e ews r sembl s tha from La t t iv vi , e e t

‘ Gua ra to C aracas in its be n forme d in a rench y l , i g t ,

and in i s ual d s b t is nOt a e . , t perp et win ing ; u it p v d n ascend n foun s ome asbes os b t h ad I i g, I d t , u neither time nor 1mpl ements to dig out a good spe

’ IA t S an- e t cant house as 1 n to P dro, he va s g ed us

’ 0 ~ . OT E S N COLOM N BIA .

‘ k ee er ro ded a re as of e s fowl s p p vi p t gg , , bread,

m l and chocol a e for a' fe a r e w re l s . ic , i k t , ~ ° ' " c or a is in 10 13 35 nor h l a ude on Vi t i t tit , the r n f the s mall ri er al n h as ma gi o v C e c , which contri

bu es to th e r1ver A ra ua . 1s s ua ed h erefore t g It it t , t , n the bas1n of th e a e f alencia i L k o V , all e of ra u n h h ha r er em ties V y A g a, i to w ic t t iv p it l T h e ul i e l th e nei hbourh ood of s e f. c t vat d l and n g

i o r a at abo e the ea of * onl n V ct i , an ele vation v t s y o e hous and n1ne h undre fee res en s t e rare s ec t d t, p t h p acl e of th e s u ar cane the coffee ree th e banana t g , t , nd th co on and indi o s h rubs rowin in e a e tt g , g g p r f ction l n the s ame el ds wi h farinaceous ra n e fi t g i , of V

n ex ell en uali . Th e Wh ea s own in Dece a c t q ty t, m h r is h ar es ed in se en — ve da s a d e , v t v ty fi y , n yields

‘ s x een for one th e mean re urn in rance o t i t ; t F , f he s ame rai n be1n accmdin to a ois er b t s g , g, g L v i , u ix to one Y e no wi hs andin thl S s u eri o i . t, t t t g p r ty in fruitful nes s over one of th e best gram countries of uro e is found much more ad an a e s E p , it v t g ou to

! ‘ cul a e th e s u ar cane . Cacao was chiefi cul tiv t g l y ti

" vated in h s all e revmusl to 1 2 when it e t i v y p y 77 , b gan to yield to i ndigo ; but this t was found to im poverl s h the l and to such a degree, th at cacao w as a ai n resor ed to in con unc ion wi h co on an g t , j t t tt d coffee T 1s o l a ed l n the ex en« . h e indigo n w cu tiv t t si e l a ns f ar as and C ucu a v p o V in t .

N ovember Hath S e n out earl we s o ed , tti g y, t pp to brea fas at S - o the h ac enda of th e k t an Mate , i Li bera or si rons of the own of the t , tuate d in th e envi t

- s ame na me a famed all e of A ra ua. , and in th e f r v y g W e carried l etters from Madam to the gen= ‘B OLIV A R . tleman wh o rents th e pl antation of th e President,

’ for hree or four thous and dol rs a e It f r t la y ar . o merly y1elded a princely l eve nue ; but h av1ng been twice ra a ed and des ro e d b the ro al v g t y y y is ts, it now onl furnis h es th e abo e named sum u On y v , p which its disinteres ted owner h as contrived to s up or himsel f and famil wi h ou d rawi u o p t y, t t ng p n the s an l s u lied reas ur of his co n r c ti y pp t y u t y .

’ resi en i on ol ar d es ce T he p d t, S m B iv , nde d from l

i C ra a - ro ean aren s w as born n a c s . He in E u p p t , he , “ t r n of Mar ues but ne er as s me ri ed the a k q , v u d the

“ but th e fatigues and hards hips to w hich h e h as

’ been ex os ed d ur n wel e ears 1ve himthe p , i g t v y , g r an d appearance ofbeing mo e adv ce . He rece1ved d e uca ion h as h ad th e ad an a e of isi in a goo d t , v t g v t g ro e and on h 1s re urn res ded a s hor me in E u p , t , i t ti

\ Pos sessing a frame of adamant and a soul of ” re e i s al i e im ass ble to the effe c s ofi men al fi , h k p i t t o l exer i ons rn i n a nd accus ome d to the or b di y t B o , t ,

“ ma e in the orl d ' l mil des t and most equabl e cli t w , 1e

“ eatedl cr s e the e er frozen Andes the h as rep y o s d v , grave of s o many ofhis companl ons m one sh ort day r e c n the e re es of the ol e and e ua or ex pe i n i g xt m p q t , W1thout appeari ng to be sensibl e of the vici ssitudes ‘ At one ime h old n the des h e was undergoi ng. t , i g th e ras of his d c a orial times of nations in g p i t t . ” ower at ano h er a ‘4 v t ab0nd * in the isl ands p , t , tg TE S O N O NO COL MBIA .

’ th o n of fall n a v1ctim to the assass n s e p i t i g i knife, he is s till the s ame ; the s ame th oughts engross his ’ nd the same ener es a em l o e for mi , gi re p y d his ’ country s emancipation ; to th e accomplishment of ch he h as de o ed his l fe an fOrtun whi , v t i d e. T h c or of a hundred ba les h e h a t e vi t tt , s no rown confiden b s uccess but os sesses th e rare g t y , , p

‘ ul of be n a ab us or a Mura a 1 fac ty i g F i t, s c rcum es re u re the mos im d cau n or h s tanc q i t t i tio , t e mos t dari ng intrepidity T hatBolivar is ambitious canno be den ed but , , t i ; i ion h as no ie w to hi self nor 1s t h is amb t v m , 1 con ned e to his own co H excl usiv ly untry . e spilt his l ates t bl ood in th e caus e of Peru,and Buenos A res h as ‘ y

l ed his effic en ai Th . acknow edg i t d . e minister Of the government over which he presides was withdrawn om Mex co wh en a fac ion us ur ed th e r h o fr i , t p ig ts f th e peopl e ; and h e h as frequently been h eard to

‘ a ha h e ne er would s hea h . his s word ll s y t t v t , ti e very hos til e S paniard was driven from the s oil of A merica ; disdaining that timid policy, w hich s uf l e o suc our each o h er h l e w h fers gitimates t c t , w i it it h ol ds the . hand of assistance from exp1r1ng repub

Dur s i ds e re ol u on h e ing th e darke t per o of th v ti , nev er s uffered himself for a moment to doubt of the republic; Wh ether w e view him at the h ead of his victor o oo s a e s the bera or o his l us tr p , h il d a Li t f c un r e l es l ed in his o t y o r follow him in his xi , p g g ’ own for un his co r s benefi e t e and credit for unt y t, h i al s ike Worthy of admiration.

T ES ON C O LO N O MBIA .

ch efs s e ara ed b a w de ex ent of coun r une i , p t [ y i t t y,

o n to and d s us ful of each o her. kn w , i tr t t T he coura e of one w as assi e h a of th o h r g p v , t t e t e i e e e act v . O ne regr tt d all his l ife th e neces sity? which im elled him to s acr fice a s1n l e man to the , p i g usa es of ar th e o h er con ince d of the unavoid . g w ; t , v l easure orde1 ed a re i t ab enes s of th e m , g men to exe cution an dismis sed the ma er for e er fro his , d tt v m hou h T he fi1 s t w as obl e d to o ern hims el t g ts . ig g v f b ub o l l on wh ich w as com e en to e y p lic p n , p t t d cide upon his acts : the se cond controls a nd forces op1 ni on a d fearl es s l as sumes th e res onsibilit of , n y p y his deeds rus in ha th e mo i e and th e end w il , t t g t t t v l ro e hi fi a i T h e ai o e as to p v s j us ti c t on. m f on w se cure ascendancy ov er th e understanding ; that Of the o h er to mo e the as sions to “ exci e en hu a t , v p , t t si sm, and r ‘ hi gove n by the pres tige of s name . T h e mans1on-h ous e of the Pre s ide nt is s ituated on a commandin bill a s h or d s ance from the g , t i t road but bein in a no s s a e w e w ere nter. ; g rul u t t , e tained w h a r fusw n of ood hin s in a ar men s it p o g t g , p t t fi ed u t fac o ur n our tt p in h e s ugar manu t ry . D i g s a w e h ad a o n of w nes in th e ro t y, n opp rtu ity it s g p ces s b w h “ th ca e e x res sed b , y ich the j uice of e n , p y means of irO roll er urned b a wa e ower is n s, t y t r p , con er ed b bo lin and fil tra ion in o wh e su ar. v t , y i g t , t it g T he cane common to the isl ands w as made use

‘ of on th e S anis fain reviousl o h e ear p h M , . p y t t y m O taiti w s s ub 1 6 . ha fro 79 A bout this time , t t a s i te d on a co of it man a d an a es it t tu , c unt s y v t g r ens in e e hs Whe eas hat from the l p tw lv mont , r t R L T O SUGA P A N A T I N .

i lands re u red s ix een l t is doubl e the si s q i t ; r ze, h h er d ld more i T e s r muc h an e s u ce . h u ig , y i j . ga , ch h owever; containe d . mu l ess s accharl ne quality th an ha a fo rded b the cane s oft he is l ands Th t t f y c t ; e

' ‘ ’ cane of Otaiti has in its turn given pl ace to that

’ formerly cul tivated T h e cons umers of Europe re not sl ow to dis co er ha t an incre e w e v , t as in bulk did not furnis h a corres ponding increase in th e rmci l e w hich he u h a iml nutio of p p t y so g t ; . d n price th e re was s ul t . W hen the cane is cutto ex rac its u ab t t j ice, out

’ a foo of the to is cut off and l a ed t p p nt , to form a new crop ; th es e cuttings are arranged 111 rows about hree or six fee a ar accord n to the o t t p t, i g s il, l aid h orizon all in a small rench abou six nches dee t y t t i p,

co ered entirel .with ear h or l aced obli uel s o v y t , p q y,, I e ose or five nch es a d as to xp four i bove groun . T he r me h od is called l an in en c an n and i latte t p t g o , s esor ed to in mars h ro nd froma reh e r t y g u , n app n ’ th e an r a me n of c e s rotting. Ir i g tion i s neces sary

and much res orteth to.

he cane w ll is h five cro s each s ucces T i furn p , si e u n how e er ields l es s h an th e rece d v c tti g, v , y t p

i n af er w hich it mus be re l an ed. T h cane g, t t p t e b ou to th e mill co sis n o as soon as out 1s r ght , n ti g f r o ed b w a er or o h er ower th e th ee roll ers , m v y t t p , uice immedia el o be1n ex res sed 1s con e ed j t y n g p , v y i ro h l ar e boil er w hence is l adled to n t ug s to a g , it

“ a four h a nd fif h and af er e n s cammed fre t t , t b i g " quently is l eft to granul ate a nd cl eanse its elf of A l is earth en vessels . lka i T E S O N COLO M N O BI A .

he fir caul dr n to fo m a us ed ; in t s t o , r combination

wi h th e ac d h s roduces a s ron ebull on. and t , i , t i p t g iti

! n of ou wh ch is remo e . ri si g s th, i v d as soon as

’ ’ W l e at S an - a eo I cl ambered th c hi M t , up e ml t ex ami ne th e mansion hous w as om nence o e . It c l e tel d l a da ed the s h ade rees cut dow n ter p y i pi t , t , nd or icos l n ru ns and th e arden s races a p t i , g pot a e covered w ith weeds . But fin n ow i s pres ented h i za of th e l an a i on w h h en from t e p az p t t , ic ext ds

u t o m l es to the lla e of S an - Ma eo abo t w i , vi g t , and ra ers ed b a w indin ri ul e of lim id w ater is t v y g v t p Q

W e rocee ded on. our ourne and arrl ved in the p j y ,

em n at Mar ca as n on the ou e t . - ev g a y, p si g r t he vil t e er O n arri in t the e l ag Turl n o. v g a pr tty vill age f Maraca w e rode n o the l aza a n o y, i t p , d w hile ad

' h ‘ mirin the fine well cons ruc ed s one ch urch i g , t t , t , d

“ doubt w hich way to turn our s teps to find a sh el ter ; ’ th e Al calde came up and relieved us from embar as sment b billettin m a n a comfor able house r , y g t , W e d is ounte e t b a w dow l ad . m d n he k p y i y ‘ i t \ ’ " a e c urt ecu ed t e a a e and a e t s u r o , s r h b g , he q g g g g v

' i us ual directions to rocure fora e for he mul es . _p g t T h e s al s of oun ndian corn and t he n ro t k y g I , n g und

rain cons u e the food of hese animal s . g , tit t t e or s 1x wome n th e inma es of ur l od n Fiv , t o gi g ouse were amusm l 1n usi e : the rel a ion hi h , g y q i tiv t s p f h os e com osin the a h ir a es wh e h er o t p g p rty, t e g , t he were marr ed or s n l e th e ob ec of he r t y i i g ,” j t t i

E O N OLO NOT S C MBI A .

bl c. here i bes des in almos all th e ow ns pu i T s, i , t t , ca e h ous e a ro r a ed for the a a confis t d , pp p i t ccommo dation of officers and other travell ers frequently, we er is un ccu e d and w hou f rn ur h o v , it o pi , it t u it e, . merely affording a s helter and mugs by wh ich to , '

l n our hammoc . , In o her ins ances i eon s i g y k t t , t t ins s ome ar cles of furni ure and i s occu ied b a “ ti t , p y

r famil who for his ad an a a e ' c e a poo y, p t v t ge, t k ar

’ of the h ous e,and provide the travell er with th e ne: re i ces s aries h e may qu re . N ovember l i S e t out very earlyr this mol ning

as s e d th e ill a e of S an-J oa ul n the for C abra p v g q , t a at the head of th e be atiful a e of al e nc a r , L k V i , d or man mil es on its bol de r and ro e f y , refres hed

’ h of its frui ful ban s and the by th e sig t t k , groups s re ec ed u on its ran u l surfa of isl and fl t p t q i ce . O ur route contl nued through finely cultivated hacien

s me of h em enclos ed b he es of lime . das , o t y dg ’ n in al on r ad W r e es ex e d the o for il es . e od tr , t g g m e

u h th e ill a es Guacavra' a nd Guar and th ro g v g o, ar

" ed i the e eni n at V al e ncm a dis ance of riv n v g , t t éfive mil e one of our l on es ourn s a thir y s, g t j ey ; h v o er mo n a nous roads the dis ance v u t i , , t a h u d ed a s bf n r nd one mil e in four days . W e pres ented our letters at the h ouse -of S enor enal er one of the S ena ors of the re ubl c and P v , t p i ,

ere indl r el ed a n o aned b his s is er w k y ec v d entert i y t , l ’ Wh o did th e honours of the h ouse ill th e ow ner re , t ‘ turne d from h s l a a ion a few l ea ues from i p nt t , g

N ovember 16. W e h ad intended to remai n 111 VA LE NC I A .

l ‘ ’ ' Val encia but ‘a day or two,but uhavoidablei circum

' stances detal ned our party till the twenty-eighth of his mon h A desire to s eeGen eral aez eit ec e t t P , p t d

n the moun ain C o uis as hou h wi hou r o t q , t g t t ecog s him w ould h a e been as ron mo ive f r m mg , v t g t o a fe da s del a e e n if th e s a e of our mul es a w y y, v t t h d t e ered it absol u el neces s ar T h eat no r nd t y y . e w he1 h ad been extreme th ot our ourne s too l on an ly , J y g, d h a n hrou h i nex er ence s ra ed valices and vi g, t g23 p i , t pp cl oa s be hind our s add l es withou s uf c e ads k , t fi i nt p , the pounding of th es e; w eigh ts h ad rais ed l arge tu t c s of our mul es an r mours on h e ba k , d endel ed ’ n them incapabl e of proceedi g.

' ' ” ° o f o W s hin on was foun E l n . r m a de 8 30 30 . g gt , d

‘ l o s as M e rino in 555 on t e borders by A n o Di , 1 , h f the l a e acari ua at an ele a on of 1530 fee o k T g , v ti t above the sea

Its . o ul a ion in 1823 abou p p t , ( » t " t e r n our s a mean T h e te mpera ur d u i g t y ,

e ature durin th e ear . ah r. temp r g y , 77 F h al encia i s buil call ed th T h e t alley m w ich V t, e all f A ra ua 1s noted for its ne s oil and li v ey o g , fi c ma e a d th e beau of its sm ul ar and ic ures ue t , n ty g p t q

’ a e h e of the sea b th e l k e; It 1s encl os d on t e s id , y littoral ch ain of mountains w hich skirts the whol e ‘ ‘ ‘ coa T he d s ance f om the i built ab ut a st . i t r cty, o mile from th e mar of the l a e to its s ea- or gm k , p t, Pnerto t t e h arbours now n C abellofi one of he fin st k ,

The ide i b thisname is that a ntended to be conveyed y , ‘ OTE S ON C OLO M 128 N BI A .

r 1 ht e e T i s sixteen o e g e n ml l s . he road is at pre o d for mul es a d can eas l b s ent g o , n i y e made so for

arrl a es . At th s me the or c g i ti , p t, as well as th e

“ asses in th e moun a ns be n 1n p t i , i g possession of the alists ale here i s no co roy , t mmunication with itscapl tal s o ha th e roduce of h s f f t t p t i ruit ul , extensive, and w ell cul a ed alle is trans or tiv t v y, p ted over ‘ nous r o mountai oads t La Guayra, by th e w ay of C aracas a d s ance of one h undred an , i t d seven mil es . Val encia 1s buil t on the us ual pl an th e h ouses are enerall of one s or but h ose en n g y t y, t cl osi g the

a a ormerl occu ied b th e c l and eccl esias e pl z , f y p y ivi ar es are er l e a tical dignit i , v y e g nt buil dings of two

” : T he r nci al church o r l s tories p i p , n w pa t y m ruins h a s l ne r T th e ear u e 1 s l a fi s uc ure. from t q k , ti t t h e overnmen hous e form n one side of the s ua e g t , i g q r ,

" o . T he number ua 1s occupl ed by the tro ps . q rtered e c an its immed a e ne hbourh ood is in th ity d i t ig , ee h us nd c s s n of the rema ns o about thr t o a , on i ti g i f n l s h ba alion the renad ers C arabobos the E g i tt , g i , , m s under the ommand of and some other regi ent , c e h ese roo s a ade the German C olonel Ursl r. T t p p r d l th e l aza wh ere firs t w ness ed the every day n p , I it b l e ceremony of prayer by sound of the ug . At th s al each man ra sed his h nd to his ca e ign , i a p,

l red « b a hair cabell o. The l ar es a ves se may be moo y , ( ) g t ” : ssel s a ro h 36 near the shore that a landin can be ef ve pp ac , g ’ ed fect on a pl ank. ”6 h C l om-s This important post has since been taken by t e o h il of the re ublic sullied bians . It w as th e l ast spot on t e so p

by the presence of the Spaniards .

N O TES O N ' C OLOMBI A

' of rea er el e a on co ered oth ers g t v ti , v with the mos t ant e eta on and man el e a n l ux uri v g ti , y v ti g th eir roc sides to a rea he h res en n the mos ky , g t ig t, p ti g t

a d en an i s e ' It is abou picture sque n ch t ng c nery . t hi r miles l on w h an u e ual bread h of from t ty g, it nq t four to nine m l e and ” an a era e de h of from i s, v g pt e f e s eventy to ni n ty e t .

T h e l ake is fed by twel ve or fourteen rivul ets, al l e mos and h a no ou l e his h as en r se c d , s t t ; t giv i to ari ous s urmi s es n re rd to s ub erranean as v , i ga t p s a o h e w a er which is cons an l s ges t carry off t t , t t y a e But ex ose d to so owerful pouri ng i nto the l k . p p

a s u a nd in an a tmos h ere s o free t from mo s ure n, p i t , th e e vaporation mus t be s ufficient - to expl ain its an i a T he Mar ues el o c use w t of ncre s e . q d T ro a d

' a granite col umn to be constructed s ome y ears si nce in th e bed of the l ake ; from s ubs equent obs erva ions a ears h a th e Wa ers a re d mi is hi t it pp , t t t i n ng. O n n uirin of S enor Pefi al ver I found hi s o l i q g , , p ’ n1on to be h a th e l ucrease a d i , t t n dim nution of the w ater depend upon a cy cl e, determined by a s uc ces s1on ' of s eas ons ; and that after diminishing for a s er es of ears the s urface b de re s a roach e i y , y g e pp s

‘ its or inal el e a i h a a t ' nat ‘ ig v t on. cycl e of hiS ure ‘ T t d oes xis is hl robabl e t e ro res s e t, hig y p ; yet h p g of ' cul i a io w h ch h as th e efi t i ncreasin the t v t n, i ec of g e a ora on from the s ur a e s o l b ex os m v p ti f ce of th i , y p g to the direc ra s f as th e fores s are it t y o th e s un, t remo ed res e s e f dim nu on an the v , p nt on cause o i ti ; d empl oyme nt of the tributary s treams for the pur oses ofm i ation su es s a second. But al ou h p g , gg t , th g L E' T A R A K AC IGUA . 13 1

i n the progress of caus es may dimi nish the ol ume of wa er it b no means foll ow a v t , y s th t th e l ake will ever be totally des iccated Thos e who dre ad th e re dic ions w hich w bnld con r t e p t , ve t h r de of al encia in o a e s ife ous s wam m p i V t p t r p, ay

‘ yet live tos ee its tranqui l s urface furrow ed by th e

ro q at p ws of s team bo s . Th e fol lowmg S i ngular fact rel ative to th e l ake of al c n 1 l ve n b umbol — V h a , s g y H dt A bout the end of th e s eve ntee nth cen ur the r1ver Pao which ‘ y, , ' t

‘ flowed into the l ake from the s outh, Was div erted

’ from it course b a l an er in order to em l o s y p t , p y a rs to irr a e his field Afte a p rt of its wate ig t s . r c

- com l shin his ur os e h e suffered. th e r1ver to p i g p p , flow at discretion down the oppos ite s10 pe of the mountai n, tow ards the south . After j oining three

‘ h er mall r1 ers th e T l naco the Guanari o and ot s v , , t , t e C hi ua th e uni ed s ream em ies n th e Per h l , t t pt i to it t a bran h of the A an . h s finds u ues a , c re d u g , pu , t s w a to th eocea n b th e mou h of the O rl noco . , y y t h al e cia is e ered T he s tone bridge byw hic V n nt ,

‘ l s much to be admired for its beauty and excell ent t ucted b Morill o some Wor mansh . w as COns r k ip It ‘ y , h ained incon . d ui h e d a rio s c of th e mos t i sting s p t t , ’ Ursler th i s sis in l the w o1 k . C el enel e p e , as t g n , rese i i o ernor h en a r1sone1 in ch ains p nt m l tary g v , t p

' and ra s and h al f s a1 ed w as as he s a ed him g , t v , , t t

self em lo ed l n his er s ruc ure . , p y t v y t t n al ch a n I rode Durmg our prol onged s tay 1 V , much m th e envii ons ; one day to th e margin of the

a " r n l e. r at co ered h k The l and is ve y fl , v wit a k OT E S O N C O LOM 432 N BI A .

d t e e a on an bu l l e cul a d . i v g t ti , itt tiv te It s so l ow, that s 1x or eight feet rise in the w ater woul d bring

t e border of th e l a e to the foo of the o . r h k t t wn F om. th e a earance of h ese ex e ri s and h pp t tensiv prai e , t e

' mas s of ve etatl n one w l be l ed to ex ec th e g o , ou d p t re al ence of fe ers and in fac h os e w h o l e p v v , t, t iv near the s h ores do not esca e h ou h th e unh eal h p , t g t ful ness does not ex end to t e c O n ano her t h ity. t ccas 1on w en to ex ami ne a ca e th e s ua on of o I t v , it ti which had ibeen descr bed to me but w as uns uc ~ , i , I es sful in the s ear In h es e excur5 1 c ch . t aid no a en ionto th ime of d a but rode fre p tt t e t y,

” quently at noon, I more th an once attracted th e no tide of the coun r eo l e wh o ac us ome to con; t y p p , , c t d ’ siderthe mid - d a as th e s eason of re ose could y p , scarcel re ard one as i n os ess on of his s ense s y g p s i , ho rode as ex l a ned did merel forth e l ea w , I p i I , y p

e - ri r O ne da s ur of ding a nd seel ng the count y . y I a e ed th e i i a a coun r man to a e cc pt nv t tion of t y , t k s h el er fromth e scorch n s n under his ha ch ed t i g u , t t cane but an used at his earne s re ~ , d was much am t on f h ea in the bl ood m s trances against the danger o t g , or a s ro e of th He s aid in ans wer to m t k e s un. , y ues ons h a h e nl or e d earl 1n the morn n q ti , t t o y W k y i g nd t e e i a e h e acclima ed as h e a m h ven ng ; th t ev n , t

- w as co l ot s and such ex os ure. coul d not , u d n t p I h el hin n ha these ood indolent e l e ma e p t ki g, t t g p op k

‘ us e of th e same reasonl ng which the négroes aare ai to to accoun for heir not s d attribute to monkeys, t t b lit to bod l ex s ea in . If howe er his ina p k g , v , t i y i y r mus be ascr bed e her to ertion do eally exist, it t i it

NOTE S O N C OLOM BI A .

/ the whiteness f th S o made upon o e skin. great is th e s m lic Of hese eo l e h a man are to be i p ity t p p , t t y t h in o whose minds th e dea of a an me wit , t , i l ua e g g , ren f om th a e e diffe t r e S p ms h n ver intruded its lf. If ,

h s t! he are not . unders ood Wh l e s ea n e e t y t i p ki g, t y downas deaf and deafen ou w h bawlin you , y it g, d a d ein or regar you s the most s tupi of created b gs . One da af er an uns ucces sf l m of a oo y, t u atte pt g d ’

a e to . a e h ers elf unders oo and af er s h e d m m k t d, t h ad in val n endeavoured to compreh end my awk ~ a a em s s h e called one of h er ch ldren W rd tt pt , i ,

' e or h ears ol d wh o as 18 fre uen l about s ven eig t y , , q t y ase as in a erfec s a e of nudi and wi h th e c , w p t t t ty, t motherly s atisfaction proceeded to convi nce me that ea s mall as he as S hor l a even h e coul d s p k, w . t y f ter ards on seel n me a e down a s ur w h ch w , g t k p i . n in a ains th e w all and a l to m was ha g g g t , pp y it y h eel to ascer ain ‘ as w s hed to urch as one t , I i , p e , s u m boo s h e a a l oo of wh ether it woul d it y t, g ve k

’ b ion to seme erson res ent and remar ed appro at p p , k , ” “ h e knows th e use of it ! and appeared much gratified to find I was not such a cnrsed fool as s h e e fo took m r . ' 11 oun ed m l e his morn« N ovember 23 . M t my u t n called in at six A . M. to isi a h ermal S r g, , , v t t p i g Las a uas calientes abou hree l ea ues from V a g , t t g

~ euc a a ed hrou h A ua- N a ua a s mal l vil l i . P ss t g g g , a e th a l e ac o be w een Moral es l g , e s cene of at ti n t

and Gene z abou a mil e be ond was . ral Pae , and t y stopped by a piquet guard of twenty men and a me out to mee me on th e s ubaltern. T h e officer ca t A GUA S C ALIE NT E S .

e w al arm being given by the sentinel on post . H as w ra ed i n the cloa of the coun 1 and w as w h , pp k t y, it out s tockings his men w ere e mpl oyed m cl eamng

' h e r arms coo in and one rou l a in cards t i , k g, g p p y g

in vam e ndea oured ton ers ua d th in the s un . I v p e e “ young and i nteres ting officer to all ow me to pro i b e he d e e n u red m o c wh e r or not. oec . H q y j t, t I Wis hed to try the medicina l effects of th e w ater as a ba h an on ex lainin ha merel wis h e to t d, p g t t I y d

’ gratify my curiosity by viewmg th e s pring and me s urin ts em era ur he re ea ed the e r s a g i t p t e, p t xp e

' r merel to s1on ara ve no as . s ee no more , p , m ( y , , , ) and/s ee med by his tone to cons ider the motive as scarcely adequate to induce one to take s o l ong a as com ell ed to re urn i ride . I w p t w thout aecom l s n m ob ec wh en wi hin h alf a mi e o p i hi g y j t, t l f th e s r n Th e m l ar o ernor f p i g. i it y g v o Valencia after w ards furnis h ed the w h a as s or but h d o it p p t , I a n o or un of a ail n mself f pp t ity v i g y o his politeness . his re re ed xceed n l as Las a uas calien T I g tt e i g y, g tes de l a T rinche1 a are re re en ed b umbold , p s t y H t as bein w h one e e ion the h o es s rm s g, it xc pt , tt t p g

e fo ra r to be 1 5 . known. H und the tempe tu e 9

a e n our inute . The Fahr . Eggs r cook ed i f m s quantity of w ater furni sh es a trans vers e s ection of s ix fee are and i s o rce of a river infes e t s qu , s th e u t d w h caimans or ali ators w h ch e m ties sinto the it , g , i p , s W i hin fort fee o the ea near Puerto Gabello. t y t f h ot sprl ng th ere are oth ers perfectly cold, wh ich

' enabl es the inhabi an s b means of s mall ca ~ t t , y

- nal s t . a f a tem e , o procure bath o ny required p £ 36 O T E S O N C O LO MB N I A .

T he w a ers are s ron l rature . t t g y i mpregnated with ul hure ed h dro en and are much res or ed t s p tt y g , t o by n al ds wh o l ace th ms el es on s mall s a e i v i , p e v t g s, formed of the branch es of rees and hus ex s t , t po e ei bo ies to the a o r t n th r d v p u of he boili g s pring. Dur n m res dence h ere remar e a beau i g y i , I k d ti ’ ful a earance e er af er oo ab o cloc . pp v y t n n, out four k T h e cl ouds m elled 'h h e s ea breeze oured , I p y t , p

‘ ov er th e s ummi t of th e mountains in dense vo mes and roll ed dow n h e r sides but he re l u , t i ; t y e nei h t T he s un mal ned in th g bourh ood of h e ridge . w as not overcas t for a moment d ur1ug our s tay In a V al enci .

” O ur hos t w as unabl e to attend th e approach ing meeting of C ongres s, l n cons equence of the - nei ices sity of payi ng sorrie a ttention to his devas tated - ' pl antation; He h as been a great sufferer by the re ol u on h avm l os his wife in one of th e W es t v ti , g t

‘ nd a sl ands w h l e on a m1s s1on to n l and an I i I , i E g , d t fiel d of ba l e i two or th ree brothers in he tt . It s ex d ha i a a o w ll eld i n th e cours e pecte t t h s pl nt ti n i yi , of a few ears a 1 reVe nue of wen or h r hou y , t ty t i ty t

an is am l cons s ts of a ne h ew s d doll ars . H f i y i p , l ad s x een ears ol d the s s er of his l ate w fe and i t y , i t i , a li l e dau h er Mara ui a a er in ere s n tt g t , q t , v y t ti g Chil ab five e ars old wh o al s nces s an l d , out y , t k i t y, nin and dances c al ls us to breakfas t l n the mor g, “ Th e fa m l s ea and s i ngs like th e Indians . i y p k French r It w as ex tremely affecting to li s ten to their accounts of the de sol ation produced by th e ex erm na n ar When th s en leman re urned to t i ti g w . i g t t

T E S O N C O L O M 188 N O B I A .

l T h e most res ec b savage peop e. p ta l e i nh abitants

in i ed to a ball b his . mons er o es and w ere v t y t t B v , were iven to unders and ha the General th ey g t , t t l o u on hos e wi h a n e l e whos hould w oul d ok p t t vi ey , c it b h ei e Af er th e ass em fail to gra e y t r pr s ence . t bl in of the ar th e men we e forc bl d ra ed g p ty, r i y gg from the h all of festivity into the adj oining Court b the br al sold er and h ere urdered w hin y ut i y, t m , it h eari ng of th eir W1ves and daughters ; w ho were co m elled b hese 1ncarnate de ils b th e inflic p , y t v , y io of s ri es to dance to the music of th e roans t n t p , g e i ds Thi re and s hriek s of th ir kindred and fr en . s l a io h ad heard fre uen l on the ourne and t n I q t y j y, afterw ards ha d it confirmed by the pers on w h o h s 1gned the convention . This gentl eman imself ’ with difficul ty escaped in a pries t s h abit to the nei hbourin mounta1ns w here h e remained cou g g , , ceal ed for two month s un il force d b m ser and , ; t y i y w an and the fear of ection b his bl ood thirs t, det y ty urs uers h e made his w a w h th e rea es diffi p , y it g t t cul to th n er or ro inc ty e i t i p v es . W hile on his d s a reeabl e o 1e a en o t i g t p , I m y m ti n an Ins tance of unmanly cruelty inflicted on a~ young l ad of C uma It is h y na. aut enticated by a B ritish na al offi e h ' c r w o w as n e e wi e s . For s o v , a y tn s me

‘ h eedl es s e r s sions a a t lis s s he w xp e g ins t he roy a t , as ied n “ t aked on a mul e, and w hipped througln the s reets . T h e l ad w as of th e firs res ec ab li t y t p t i ty, and such as the delic Of h er feelin s h a sh e w acy g , t t 1 efu ed all s u enance bein de ermined not to s ur s st , g t e h er dis i ac died a ee af er the inflic viv g e, and w k t E 1 V A L NC I A . 39

on h sh ' H r bro h t e ameful ums hment. e er ti of p t ,

' from th at moment devoted hims el f to avengea her dea is b s e h . N 0 o h e r h ou h occu ied h rea h n t t t g t p t ; w ,

’ after re eatedl in c in serl ous ur u on h is , p y fli t g Inj y p enemies as onis hin h em b hisaud i a ; , t g t y ac ty nd bra er h e h eroical l fell recei in dea v y , y , v g th from the h ands of the murder rs of i e e his s s t r . A nother species of torture used by the S paniards 111 th e country w as to strip th e s kin from th e s ol es ’ l of ris oners fee a nd obli e h e m to wal o i p t, g t k n gra

‘ «T vel . h e sys te m foll owe d by Boves and his ofli cers w as to urder e er dis i uish d a i t , m v y t ng e m n n h e country ; k nowing how to w rite frequently deter e f r A mon th e ic i ml n d the fate o a p isoner. g v t ms to s en e d hil oso h sacr ficed on th e al ar of ci c an p p y, i t l e i im a norance b orill o wh en n g t acy nd ig , y M , be e tered Bo o a in 1815 are the names of Mu is ad g t , , t , vantageous ly k nown for his botanical res earches C al as w o w as as socia ed in his l abours with ‘ d , h t

‘ mbol d — orano and R ezo whose a ainm n s Hu t L , tt e t t ma h ma cs h e h s cal sme nces and his in he t e ti , t p y i ,

» Woul d h ave done h onour to an a e or na ion. tory , y g t ’ efi al ver s in uiries r ela i e to the ol ics Mr . P q t v p it

f th d S a es were r , n and s tatistics o e Unite t t , ve y u

» e s a ed the o ul a ion of C ol ombia at merous . H t t p p t h und e hous an s oul s an as two millions six r d t d , d serted th at one million h ad peris hed wi thi n the e He see med a l l e ncred ul ous wh e l as t ten y ars . itt i , n I stated the inCIease of popul ation in th e United S es fi e ears to h a e been from h ree tat , In forty v y v t to nearl e m l o O n da in enumera n y t n i li ns . e y, ti g ‘ O T E S ON e OLOMBI 14 0 N A .

an a es en o ed b his coun r r t th e adv t g j y y t y, h e dwel upon the favourabl e circumstance of poss essi ng but

ne reli ion a nd on r l a ua e su es ed b a o g e ng g , gg t y

‘ statement I had be en maki ng of th e diversity O f ‘ s ec s and the hree* l an ua es s o en i n th e Uni t , t g g p k I u o r e h e ed a es . en red t n ui e wh er h t S t t v t i q , t h ou h a un of reli on so re a an ad a e t g t ity gi g t v ntag , inee it was s een b our ex a m le h a ol era ion s y p , t t t t

Was not des tructive of a high s tate of moral and re s

l i us feel in . He re li d in a oli ical oin of gio g p e , p t p t e hin it is : re en s wran l n the use vi w I t k it p v t g i g,

‘ of much ime In con ro ersies and ends l es s Waste t t v , t ’ to bind the members of the COmtnnnity more cl os ely tfl merel s ea of o e reli ion b e h a together. I y p k n g t t He concl uded b e a h t all t it ma . r mr n a w h a y y ki g, t men of education and reflection were of th e s ame as ex e l l ease v religion. I w tr me y p d with this e i dence of a hiloso hical mind and at findin s o p p , g

' muc h liberal i of s entiment in a coun r wh ere ty t y, I h ad ex pected to e ncounter nothing but the most in bi tol erant gotry . A t one of the entertainments given during our s a in al encia was s ea ed at abl e b th e s de t y V , I t t y i

of a ro officer of th e a m t o I x h ad re neg r y, o w h m p k el been in rod e But h a rendered the y t uc d . W t c rcums ance more sin ul ar i e es w as at i t g n my y , , th an n lis hman a w hi e ma th e wai er of one of E g , t n, t

the officers w as in a e dance . w ll readil be , tt n It i y s u os d h a th e ce of col our in Col omb a pp e , t t e pr j udi i ,

B th rida the S anish ma es the y e acquisition of Flo , p k h l fourt anguage spoken l n the United States .

C HAPTER VIII.

— —J ' — LEAVE VA LE NCiA CA RA Bono GE NE RA L r A nz BA BQUI — — — SIME TO COLO NE L MA NRE KY ToCUYo A GUA om sr os

— - — SA NTA ANA T RUX IL LO .

escorted for s ome dis tance by our attentive h ost, S ena or enal er a nd roceede d b e as s ta es t P v , p y y , g ,

‘ rendered neces s ary by the infirm health of one of th e art to th e small ill a e ocu i o e h p y, v g T yt , ig t, bobo wel e— we n mil es th e and. C ara scene t v t ty , of ’ one of Bolival s mos fa mous vic orl es O ur uide t t . g ad been in th e ba l e and a e us e c h tt , g v a d s ription (if t th varl ous mo emen s of h e h os ile a 1es . H e v t t rm . e be on ed to th e n lis h ba ali n hose d e l g E g tt o , W es p rate ' ch ar e h ad con ribu ed so much to th e s uccess of g , t t th e day ; and now w ore on his ar m the dis tinguish

bad e of the ba l T he l ain C ara b . ing g tt e . p of bo o is abou se en miles l on b hree broad h as t v g, y t ; it a: oad runmn h rou h its cen re is en ire cl ear of r g t g t , t ly; rees or e cl osures and is enc rcl e d b a am h t n , i y n p i

h ea re of bill s formin an ex u1s1te fie d of ba l e . t t , g q l tt It was on this field th at Paez l aid the foundation o his i i ai a e f m l t y f m . his ar er o or na e T extraordi n y man 1s a Llan , tiv

f the e a as in enezuela . o l evated pl ains o f V rin , V

‘ He was the owner of h erds of h alf w ld ca l e . i tt , h ch h e —4 fac an lli era e W i attended hims elf m t, i t t

h er sman. d m e uous em er d N aturall of a hol , p t t p y i ,“ GE E RA L ' N P A E Z .

and ossessed of s ren h and actiw t of bod p t gt y y, altogether s urprl sl ng in a frame rather under the ' ‘ common s ize h e e arl s i uis he , y di t ng d hims elf in hos e fea s of h ardihood and d exter ren e t t ity, d red more frequent by being al mos t continual ly on horse . bac w h ch i n a rude s oc e confer a i l e t k , i , i ty, t t o s u

eriorit . n o n h ese ers onal ad an a es p y E j yi g t p v t g , uni ed to a uic ene ra in mind and much na t q k, p t t g. ,

i e s a aci h e had . el e a e imself a o th t v g ty, v t d h , b ut e ime of the re ol u i n to a s or of ch ef ainshi t v t o , t i t p, pos s es s mggreat influence over the rovmg bands of h alf s a a e h erds men in h1s immedia e vwinit . v g , t y His res tl ess ambition prompted him to col lect a ban o arin as socia es and l a in d f his mos t d g t , p c g himself at h eir head h e comme nced a a1tisan re t , p p B datory w arfare on his ow n account . el ng an A me rican,his natural pre pos s es sions inclined him to the patriot caus e ; but w hen in w ant of provi s 10ns or f ece s arie h e or mone for hi s el f to n s s for is m n, y m , enabl e him to i ndulge in th at s trongest of all the — pas s ions in an uncultivate d mind- gaming th e caus e of his country w as freque ntly l os t sight of, and th e firm patriot th en received th e treatment he e oted ro al mos t us ually inflicted upon t d v y ist . oli a en i e to th e rowm 1nflue nce of the B v r, att t v g g l awl es ief de ermined at once to fix h1s rma s ch , t p ' es and enlis his ood ual i ies for th e benefi of pi , t g q t t r b a oi n n him to the re th eir common count y, y pp ti g

a a his s e h ad th e des ired e fec . Th e gul r rmy . T t p f t cause of th e country was strength ened by a chief of the most heroic intrepidity ; possessi ng a genius for C O LO M N O T E S O N BI A .

“ hich d is ense d wi h th e rul es of art h a in w ar, w p t ; v g d f dau tl es s aval r unde r his command a bo y o n c y, c ar e when l ed b th e r fa our e chief wh ose h g , y i v it , res s ib e h ese men a ccus ome d to the was i r i t l . T , t

i men the R uss mn cos s ac s a nd li e and equ p t, k , , k

' th e m do not ow e th e e ffect of their ons e to th , t e of a mas s b ut c h ar e e aratel or tw o or sh ock , g s p y, ee o e t e de endi u on indi idual addre s s th r t g h r, p ng p v

d " ro w ess u on th e dex erous m ana e me n of an p , p t g t th e h orse the l ance and th e exam l e o h eir , , , p f t

s been en a e d in man bat l es and nu P aez h a g g y t ,

nor c on i s but h e r ' s e all o e merous mi fl ct , mo e e p ci y w s ?

‘ h is dis tinction - to h 1s conduct at th e battle of C ara T he con endin arm1es w e e ac e bobo . t g er h aboutfiv thous and me n the field an ex e si e l a ra s d , t nv p i n, t ver e

' a oad and on one s de at ome ta f .by r , i , s dis nce rom h e road b a conceal ed rav h e on e di t me. n , y T c t n g

a r ies al hou h numer cal l e ual w e e tnot so in p t , t g i y q , r force the S an ards were better d sci i ed an ; p i i pl n , d h ad a beautiful battery of artill ery in position upon th e road command n thewhol e a n the Co l o , i g pl i ; m l ans be n w hou h s ar oli ar k no m b m. w i g it t t i B v , g h ow much de e d ed u on th e en of the da p n p ev t y, ’ dis osed his force in tw o d1v1s 1ons 1v1n th e rl ht p , g g g " ‘t to ont ll afi t e ef to aez with M i , h e s e nl or, and th l t P , orders to attack with his two battalions and about “

twel ve h un dred cav al ry by the ravi ne . Th e Presi d en ne w it s a e a e and h ad chos en t k wa desperat g m , his a en acc ez el i h d at the d rd l . a d e i g t o ing y P , g t s

6 O E S ON C O O MB 14 N T L I A .

Llaner o h as no b t e Th e w, y h as sistance of th e

n lis h ofli cers of his s aff made some r ' E g t , p ogres s in el eme s Of edu at S uch s i u th e nt c l on. i h s q icknes s a rehe s ion h a h e earns 1th t diffi ul of pp n , t t l w ou c ty wh at in Oth ers woul d req uire years of application; is to be re re ed h a the model s before his e es It g tt t t y , d n hich h e h as formed h mself el e ndt an upo w i , w fi? ' h f imi a io e a l e e h more w ort y o t t n. H h s arnt ev ry t i ng

e t him an i - res en d o h e os se s a p t ; d, f p s ses the ea y car y ria e and ol e manners of olis h ed s c hehas g p it p o iety,

lik ew1s e ac uire d its V l ces . He is not habi uall q , t y e m era e but is fre u n l comm e d ‘b t e co i nt p t , q e t y itt y h n t of h s di os itl o viviali y i sp n. He carrl es his pas sl on for aml n to s uch an e n as lw a to ee g g xte t, a ys k p h self oor al ho u h os s es s e im p , t g he p s s ome of the

r ch es con sca ed es a e l n th e u h s ro-v i t fi t t t s co ntry . T i p v ensit om s h m l e wi s e to borro h li l e p y pr pt i , ik , w wit tt , s cru ul ousnes s rom w h omsoe er will l end hou p f v , wit t blin hims el trou g f about repayment .

ormerl wh e the n of th co e in a F y, n mi ds e nt nd g par

es w ere h ea ed b mu ual barbari ies the ch arac~ ti t y t t , ter of the General h ad been s tal ned with acts of cruel not merel a ai ns th e e nem wh o at one ty y g t y, - eriod ere ut to death w h en a en s a ma er p w p t k , a tt

f cours e but owar s h 1s ow n oo s . i e o her o , t d tr p L k t n of ea en us a s ion he is me gr t g i nd violent pa s s, a “ w arm frie n and a deadl f e Ma n anecdo es d y o . y t ’ are rel a ed of the General s fool - hardy in re idit , t , t p y

” f i s ome merel une and eats of addres s and activ ty, y

n by w ay of bravado, w hile oth ers h ad «a hdableob ec A m n the firs are his fea s j t . o g t, t ' GENERA L PAE Z . inl eaping and s wimming h orses ; his attacks of furious bull s ; and particul arly his si ngul ar amus co men of encoun erin th e al man or alli a t t g c , g tor, in his A n ins ance f a m r r own el ement . t o q e prais ew orthy exer on Of coura e w as in th e ca ur ti g , pt e by him and ' h is officers of a S n s h armed schooner l in at , pa i y g l as eff c e b anchor in th e O ri noco . T h s w e t d y s wim min rom h e s hore each of th e ar h oldin hi g f t , p ty g s ord in h h s w 1s mout .

‘ ' T he Ge ne ral is now, (4 82 3) about thirty - five

ears ol d . es ides his mili ar ran h e is a S ena y B t y k, ' th r ubl A l o tor of e ep ic. th ugh cl othed with th ese h h ci l and m li ar em l o me n s h e doe ig vi i t y p y t , s not e s i a e to en a e in the mos bo ish ran s O h t t g g t y p k . n th e ex ira on of th e armis ice of S an a - A na t p ti t t , o ’ s h ow his o at the e en h e s et fire to th e s ol d e J y v t, i rs

‘ barrac s . B url u ano her in er al Of inacti it h e k g t t v y y, amuse d hims elf by taking his Officers to th e h ouses of the mos w eal h inhabi an s of A n os ura b t t y t t g t , a out " th e t e of dinner as if n com liance wi h an 1n 1~ im , i p t v ' io os e wh o new th e General ut on the tat n. Bh k p es face and roduce e er h in th e ho use af b t , p d v y t g forded or h at could be rocured on s o unceremo , t p ow er more s ar n o s a o ce . O h e s w h e nion n ti t r , p i g f

' e a d r ons or atte m ted to ma e th ir wi ne n p ovisi , p k ' exc s e were sure to h a e heir hous es s ac ed for u s, v t k , th e pretended indignity of m u ti ng gentl emen to Af dinne1 without s uitabl e preparations . ter this o n h ad l as ed a for n ht and r und of dissipatio t t ig , b of h os e en a ed the roke n down the h eal th t g g , Ge neral ordered his officers to meet at a designated N O TE S O N CO LOMBI A

o e and de ached a uard as if to a end a h us , t g , tt 1m e T he bes r n r as s litary fun ral . t d i ke w eized and l ace d on a bi er wi h em bottl es demi ohns p , t pty , , j , 81C he uard wi h re ers d arms foll owed b “ T g , t v e , y the offi ers e ach carr l n an em bo l e rocee c , y g pty tt , p d cd to th e l ace of nter e r i zen h e p i ment, ve y C ti t y

met e1n obli ed to as sis a th e er mon .whic b g g t t c e y, h w as cond ucte d with al l th e formalitl es practised on

uch occa on . fune s a ed s si s A ral s ermon wa pre ch ,

l s etting forth the conviy ial mccomplis hments of th e de u c O n th e hir d becomin ear of th e f n . d a w t t y, g y abs ence of a mus e me n the Ge neral announced ha t , t t n w s b t a a s a r es ur r ectio a a out o t ke pl ce. Thi was accompa nl e d by th e rites us ua lly O bsel ved In C a

l ' co tries n a er S unda T he bo l e th o iC un o E s t y . tt s ere all fil le d no hin but re owl n w as eard w , t g j g h , and the revi ed o er l aced in h onour at the head v t p , p of the abl e w as a o ed mas er of the l e el s t , pp int t v . T h e abo e rai ro es if it ro es no h n el s e v t t p v , p v t i g , th at in a country w h ere s uch a s cene coul d be aced th e o l e ca n be ch ar e h an o er t , pe p n ot g d wit v a ach to the h re i tt ment establis ed lig on . ’ N ovember 29th} T his day s j our ney w as th rough th e ll a e Chir ua on bad roads o er t e mouh vi g g , , v h j a ns Las er i — en m l e t i H manas to T naquill o tw ty i s . N ove ber 3 h hrou h a ell w a ered coun m 0t . T g w t

' “ tr cro s ee e a il e to Las Pal y, s ing cr ks ev ry h lf m , as — h s da as s ed m and Tinaco tw enty mil es . T i y, p hrou o f the rees meas ured t gh n bl e forests ; s ome o t , l ow dow n embracin the five or six ro ec in , g p j t g s urs l ike h ch na ure rov des to p , buttresses, w i t p i fi

OTE S ON C O LOM N BI A.

h our or two at noon ro u i n for an , , p c r g food both and at ni h b s end n t e a then g t, y i g h serv nts out to

' ora e for e s and fowl s er h a e er" el s f g gg , w t v e could be ob a ned w h ch we c l t i , i ooked in miserab e h uts, the resorts of mul eteers At Barquisemeto th e conti nued ill h eal th of one O of th e party call ed for a del ay of s ome days . n arr in in own we w ere de a ne d some me inthe iv g t , t i ti s ree before uar ers ere as s ned to us th e Al t t, q t w ig , cal de be n abs en A n ris h en l eman a s ur eon i g t . I g t , g [ ‘ in the arm relie ed s b s h owin the w a to th e y, V u y g y uar ers of th e mili ar commandan C ol onel an‘ q t t y t, M

e wh o w as e m ora ril a bsen on u . h s r ky, t p y t d ty T i

en l eman urned out to be Dr. Mall er to wh om g t t y, w e h ad l e ers he was er a en e a nd us ef tt ; v y tt tiv , ul a a i of s c an e r m in his c p c ty phy i i . W e ained in this v d town fi e ays . O n the da of our arr al th e 4 th of Dece mber y iv , , experl enced a s light s hock of an earthquake at h alf

as four . M . w as fel b ers ons in differ p t , P It t y p entparts of th e tow n; buts h ocks are so frequent as to e e o fe r and unl e s ncommo l se ere do cr at n a , s u n y v , not produce excitement enough tobecome with the h b A t th e me in a itants a subj ect of convers ation. ti

oo l a e s l n in m h ammoc . Th e s en it t k p c , I wa yi g y k

‘ s ation was precis ely as if s ome one h ad j arred th e d hes e h ammock by running against th e cor s . T con ul s a aneous h a h ere v ions are h ppily so i ns tant , t t t is no time for appreh ension ; th e danger being over before th e ml nd is aware th at it h as bee n th reaten ed: I was much gratified in h avmg witnessed this BA RQUISE METO .

l a of th e rea mach ner of na ure as is on p y g t i y t , it . e of hos e w e canno form an ade ua e dea f t , t q t i o from description ; and as th e s ublimity of h er freaks is much more im osin h an th e beau of h er re os e p g t ty p . ° ’ ° ’ " Bar uis emeto in 8 55 N . l at. and 1 q , 0 00 3 0 W s hin . l on . from a on founded b ill e a E g gt , y V g s, in 1 552 af er con uerin th e s oil from th e ndia , t q g I ns, w as formerl a hird r a e ow n and mi h be y t t t , g t com i oin of S i ze i h W il mi ared n w n on Del . p , p t , t gt , In 1 812 w as al mos en irel des ro e d not , it t t y t y , more a th an ten or tw elve h ouses esc ping. T h e principal s treet is now buil t up but in the two parall el ones T there are s till many ruins . h e h ous es re buil t are cons ruc ed of u ri h os s sun in th e round t t p g t p t k g , w ith a w attli ng of canes ; th e inters tices fill ed w ith d l as ere wi h lime and whi e as e mu d w h d . , p t t , t Thi s mode of buil ding is res orted to on account of th e frs uene of e ar h ua es and th e recollec i o q y t q k , t on f th eir ' 1 severe s nfi erings in 18 2 . Mas s i s cel ebra ed in a em orar ch urch au t t p y , g d i l ornamen ed w i h c ures ima es and h an i n s y t t pi t , g , g g , w a but entirely open to the front . A ne nd v ery l ar e ch urch was a bou h alf buil no w or men g t t ; k , h o we er w ere e n a ed in its cons ruc ti on durin v , g g t g r s a T h e ow n now consis s of a l on w e ou . t y t t g, ll

a ed s ree lined w i h one s tor h ous es . is p v t t, t y It b uil u a d ert l ain el e ated abou two h u t pon es p , v t n dred fee ab th e s mal l r er C al abozo w hi h t ove iv , c ow s t a er for h ouseh old ur ose s is fl a its base . W t p p brought from th e river on mul es and s old in the s treets . OTE S O N C OLO MB 152 N I A .

/ ’ as a rac ed one e enin about ei ht I w tt t v g, g o cl ock, by th e vome ofr a S tentorian preacher, wh o w as in f r h at h of e s e fo nd the h ol d g o t t e h ead th tr et . I u P adr e mounted on a proj ecting Wi ndow of one of

the houses " is ud nce c u ie d th e s ree con H a ie o c p t t,

‘ i f a ro i c s cro d f men and w ome n sis t ng o p m s ubu w o ,

ome ch an in and rl n l n bel l s w hil e others held s t g g g , s h e a r cros es orc es 0 . T e S a er a e red e , t , 85 h p k pp v y

earnes . At e er aus e ins ead of bein a ns w er t v y p , t g

’ b e t as al a men t e res onses were made ed y a d cen n , h p

a dre l n fire from a ua rd o s old ers w h o f, by n pp g g i ,

as sis ted a t th e cere mo ni es .

‘ T he e eni n beforefl w e l ef his l ace e rec v g t t p , w el v ed an uncourteous s ummons to l eave the h ous e w e occupied ; but this was positively refused on our s h s i ar ill another r oul d be a s ed for o c p t, t gn ur ac om

t Dr . a moda ion. Mall ery c me up v ery opportunely at th e momen of our rea e r l exi e e t g t st p e p ty . H w nt imme diately to C ol onel Manrekyflé wh o h ad j us t ' re urned from a ourne “ of s e enteen l ea ue s a t j y v g , nd und his h e oc b fo ous cupied y strangers . T he Doc t r e l e d t i a s C o o xp ain he c rcumst nce of th e case . l onel Manrek s aid he b e m s f r d and y h ad e n i in o me , was now erfe l s a sfie and mme ia el s ent a re p ct y ti d, i d t y

ues l e He s at a ' q t tobe al ow d to pay us a vis it. n h our d r n w hich h e ev ced b his con ers a: , u i g m y v i on and anners h a a man of n elli ence t m , th at e w s i t g

3“ Col onel Ma r k who i m r essed m e as favourabl as n e y, p y an of cer met w it w as rom ted to a Bri adier com y fi I h, p o g ,

O TE S O N CO LO MB N I A .

W e a f h andl e th em. esc ped with out eeling their s if he ossess ed an at the e ense s ting , t yp y, xp of a

r r ca erer su eede n w littl e app eh ension. O u t cc d i g et i ar a k d u o h ch as o a oo e n of. n w s o s c d t g p t i , p i , n k , e d ned h ear l our own s ores f r1ce bread w i ti y ; t o , ,

and condiments, s ervmg to furni sh b ut th e repast . the n h t b — W e h alted for i g t a Qui or thirty mil es .

r . S et a Decembe 1 1th out earl ah d arr ed t. 3 , y, iv ,

‘ — - at ocu o wen our m le . h e wh ol e P . M. T y t ty f i s T rou e from Bar uis emeto to h s lace fift - fo r t q t i p , y u

' ’ mil es i s an arid l ain - co ered w h one con i nued , p l , v it t a us rees row n to th e h e h of fif fores t of c ct t , g i g ig t

‘ fe which res en a mos s n ul ar an re teen et, p t t i g d g ue a earance from h e r resembl ance ar tesq pp , t i to v i ous a a i n n ma o e anim te nd a i te bj cts . A s there is no ade th e h ea of th e s un and it ra at n s h , t , s di io from t e whi e s and sod is al os i ns u or abl es B h t y , m t pp t ut

es t nn = few hous are me with in this dis tance. I ume abl e oa s s r the roa e h ch a ear ' a r g t ki t d sid , w i pp w u n w hou an o deri g it t wner.

e i e d . a é D l v re our l etters from C ol . M nreky t the his officer en er a ned Military C ommandant . T t t i us in th e bes t manner for the remainder of the day and

‘ th e wh ol e of the nex our ar be n in wa nt t, p ty i g of

re ose . O ur hos be n Go ernor of thettovdn p t i g v , oc cu ied th e h ou e bel oh in‘ to th e s a e s ua e p s g g t t , it t d, as is n ar abl th e cas e on the ubl c s uare i v i y , p i q op

osite th e chu h as assi ned .to a h ammo p rc . I w g ck in th e r nc al 'room Beih s omewh a fa ued p i ip g t tig ,

occu ed earl Ill t e .e enin and w as a ree I pi it y h v g, g a bl en er ain d o n th e l ux r y t t e , while enj yi g u y of my T Y O CU O .

‘ bed b o t f swinging , y a c ncer o some fine femal e

“ ‘ oices in the same ro m. A s was h al f a sl ee v o I p, I did not s atisfy myself as to th e p ers ons who formed ’ the co cer but s u osed th e otficer s wife a ood n t, pp , g

natured ortl l ad w as c h e of th e number. S he g p y y, afforde a er oo bl e and as er t d v y g d ta , w v y a tentive to our wan s hou h not e uall s o to a w t , t g q y wh t e sh oul cons der bieh séance as sh e did n ot h es a e d i , it t to c s ome in ruders from h er a be ll pi k t h e d fore us a , and proceed with th e utmos t composure to i nflict la

’ eine orte et dar e u on the nterlo ers wi h her p f p i p , t

’ thumb nail s W e obtained s ome advice and prescriptions from a ell e h sic an of the own a C r ol e ed n int ig nt p y i t , e , u ’ s s aw -at h s en l eman s h e cated at C araca . I t i g t ous a er cred abl e s ec men of his s ll in draw n v y it p i ki i g, consis tingof two p ortraits representing a Patriot

‘

nd Godo our Wh and or . T h e dea con e d a , ig t y i v ye was very much th at of th e l aughing and crying phi

' I was s ruc on s eein h s h ous e h l osoph ers . t k g t i wit al an o o for and th e ncon rui in the gener w t f c m t, i g ty a d d a ons obser abl e l n mos of th e furniture n ecor ti , v t the h ouses of this country

T he furn ure is of th e rudes ind . T he ch a rs it t k , i

oul d ma e ex » are s uch as a rough carpenter w k , tremel y h eavy ; the seat and back being made of h th e h a r on or of l ea h er na l ed to dry hide w it i , t i

hes e w h one or wo uno th e wooden frame . T , it t abl es bear n no couth and inconve me ntly high t , i g he h ei h of th e ch a rs form the j us t preportion to t g t i , a m . In w r us ual furniture of th e principal room . N O T E S O N C O LOMBI A

es h ammoc s ar sus ended climat , k m p from books in t e walls l n hese the fam l or s e h ; t , i y vi it rs l oll by ’ 4 urns . Th e floor of th e Doc or s house abo e al t ( t v l ded to was m l bea en ear h an s ende a , si p y t t ; d su p d from the rou h beams few hous es h avm g , ( g

‘ w ere two h ands ome A rgand l amps with painted

shades . W hile remarki ng the stupendous scale upon na u e h s form or e on ‘ wh ich t r a ed h er w k s l n this r gi , it is painful to obs erve th e littl e advantage w hich

' h as been a en of h r bou ies d ri n an u a t k e nt , u g occ p tion of th ree centuries . Th e cul tivated l and com ar d wi h ha l in was e is as a e p e t t t y g t , sp ck in the a Th e owns ar r mb in oce n. t e c u l g into dus t ; yet e do not bear th e im ress of an u a d a th y p tiq ity, n re Wi thout the h al o of recoll ections to dignify th eir . T he face of th e oun r su e s fall . c t y gg st th e i mage of youth pre maturely s eamed with th e wrinkl es f nc an of age . In a y d d ecrepitude totter h and in S uch hav e been th e r es ul ts of the colonial sys tem ; but s ince th e country h as h ad s ufficient ‘ energy to s hake ofi the i ncubus w hich s tifled h er row h w e ma reas onabl ndul e i th e br h g t , y y i g n ig t e s t an ci a ons of her re enera ion and s ead ti p ti g t , t y are r e march in th e c e of improvem nt. ° ’ ° ’ o u o l n 35 nor h l a i ude and 6 3 5 30 T c y , 9 t t t ,

s l on ude from W ash n on founded l n 15415 ea t git , i gt ; , vah l ontal n at res t abou two h ou by C ara a , c s p en t t e remel s and five h undred i nh abitants . It is xt y well w atered h avin a fine limpid s tream running , gx rou h e er ree “ nd con a ns five ch urch es th g v y st t, a t i ,

‘ ' OIE S on C O L 158 N OMBIA .

r ~« n : ember 1 3th . ef ocu o at A Pro Dec L t T y 9; M.

ded e h een m l es t mar cara - ba o e cee ig t i , o Hu a j ; wh er we arr1ved in th e e en n es n occas nall on v i g, r ti g io y

- - um ra a a ba o i o lla e of went H a c r j s a p or vi g , t y r hu s bu l n th e bo o f a r ch but five or thi ty t , i t i tt m o i er oh narrow and deep gl en. The Alcal de w as v y se uious rocured for us an w ould re q , p , d

ceive no compens ation. He waited on us i n s tate i a cl e h n 'h im in the e enin n . an s r brin w v g, i t, gi g ith

' a bo abou wel e ears of a e to read our ass y t t v y g , x p

‘ or i h ceremon was erformed i h cons de p t, wh c y p w t i r

abl e difficul ty .

' - December 1dtb. eft Humaracara ba o at A L j 7, . ’

a ed a t A ua M. a M . nd arr Ob s os at . , iv g i p 7, P , s t distance of th irty s1x mil es . Thi was th e mos ’ d s ress n da s ourne of t e wh ol e rou e W e i t i g y j y h t . encoun ered rec ous roads rendered reall dan t p ipit , , y erons b th e effec of a ol en ra n on a cl a e g y t vi t i , y y

‘ s oil . A t to of the o n a e ere ch ll ed the p m u t in, w w i w h col d In escen n s ome of the ar h ad ' it . d di g, p ty to d s mount at a l ace wh ere in ma n the t i p , , ki g a em m mul e s a ac ousl l acm h er hoofs to t pt, y , g i y p g t s us ain h er l s e eral a ds o er urn n the t , s id v y r , v t i g

‘ ' mul e eer in her assa e an ed m s rawl n t p g , d l and e p i g i n the sl d at t f o f th ban . T o imy mu , he o t o e k wards e en n t e s er ea h li s ome cons dera v i g, h g nt ei g i — bl e dis tance on before Manuel in th e rear with — th e baggage we were detained js ome time in reco ’ verin e h h ad h rown him an g P ter s mul e, whic t d

awa . Chil d dre ch ed and hun r we ar y l e , n , g y, A GU A O BI SPOS .

t h af e a d a erou descen of hree rived a nig t, t r ng s t t or fo r m l es on a sli er road scarcel discernb u i , pp y , y

, bl e at iserabl e h ut at Obis os . con aine but , a m p It t d

one ic . r m al read occu ied b wen ra e1 publ oo , y p y t ty t v l ers de erred from cross n the oun a n b th e , t i g m t i y bad a r nd s o ed ha the h amo we th e ; a o cr wd , t t m cks

’ ' ouc ed ea h h er ere we w re furn sh ed wi h t h c ot . H e i t s ome s ir a m a a n wh o w s er p its by ul tto capt i , a v y ol e and us e his a h o ’it to rocure us s u p it , d ut i y p ffi

- o his r cient room to s wing our h amm cks . T elief

' came er o or unel as e w ere faint and com v y pp t y, w l etel e a O ur ba a e did n t p y xh usted w ith fatigue . gg g o arri e i l nex mormn so a w e Were constrain v t l t g, th t ed to pas s a col d and uncomfortabl e night ‘ in our

t e h e ra el ursued , h eir o e we cl oth s . T t v l ers p t j urn y nex da and l ef us in os sessmn of the but t y, t p , w h ere we rem ai ned to recover th e baggage and re cruit our exh au ed n s t s tre gth . A ua Ob s os s ua ed in a ru ed all e s ur g i p , it t gg v y, rounded b eno m un a n can s car e y rmous o t i s, c ly be called a vill age ; the eight or twel ve s traggling T h hous es being w ithi n th e circuit of a mil e . e in ma es of th e h ouse c u i ed w ere a fat h ear t we o c p , , ty

l oo in ol d dame a h ee dau h ers . O k g , nd er thr g t n th e e en n of our arr al e rece d no a en v i g iv , w ive tt tion from the family ; al l was confusion ; each pers on

‘ bein en a ed around th e fire made in one corner g g g ,

f th e - o cdok s ed re ar n his mes s . W e h , p p i g partcok of th at prepared for th e captain by his se rvant ; it bein -im os s ble t h a a e h ou to r a l r . ocure an g p i , t t t , p y ' th n an t ' i g, d h e old l ady insisting s he h ad nothing i th n e h ouse. ‘ O TE S oN C O LOM A 1 N BI .

e mor n find n e w er s d to Th e n xt ni g, i g w e di pose T fp r vvh at w e wan ed she O ened h er s ores pay t , p t ,

‘ u lied us w h e s bread e e abl es and and s pp it gg , , v g t , l a e re ared at the momen f om th e ernel ch oco t , p p t r k , l h l roas ed an red c to a be ween s ig t y t , d u ed paste t t two s ones . O ur excellen fora er the s er ean t t g , g , s oon added his purchas e of fowl s to our s tock of ro an and h a s uc ee e l urm p v t, d c d d ikewise l n proc g

r c r - s al f o r g een o n t ks or u famis he d mul es . A s I sat on a s tone drying my cl oth es near th e fire a o un man came i and as h ea ed w h , y g n, w t it d d n s a is fied h is the bes t the h ous e affor e . H avi g t oracious a e e th e women ro u ed hei r urses v pp tit , p d c t p ; and af er coun n and 1 ecountin e r real s and , t ti g g th i , n re ea ed ns ructions off s et th e edl er for givi g p t i t , p o u o to urc a for t e fam l h e r l l e ar T c y , p h s e h i y t i itt ti c es o e s a d l f dr s n finery . I th e course of the morn n a s ri h l woman n i g, p g t y paid the family a vi sit ; sh e w as s haki ng with th e

’ a ue w h ch h o e er did not reven her from g , i , w v , p t al i 1n l S he addressed h er con ers a t k ng cess ant y . v on to me and con i ued for h al f an h our w hout ti , t n , it

“ i ts e er e in h er ad h a robabl er l l e v nter g h e , t t p y v y itt

of. e a u e n h such ol ubili w as what. s h w s tt ri g wit v ty under S he hrew out man in s at a ra el s tood . t y h t t v l er wh o a ab u to e ar h ou a n for , w s o t d p t wit t p yi g w h a he h ad ea en contras n th e cus om of th e t t , ti g t

na es in hi res ec h ha of the n l sh . tiv t s p t, wit t t E g i W hile proceedi ng i n this attack upon th e generosity of h e cod e o sat len l munch n his mess t g r, w h si t y i g , ' l s t e to be she threw frequent significantg ance a m ,

s O N ' C O LOM N OT a BI A .

' rain ver f much n h e manner h a a n ers r nd g , y i t t t p i t g i r th eir col ou s . ' The jarc ontaining th e grain is placed On one s ide and f a er on th e o her and th e o era or , one O W t t , p t A s tands at the most el evated end of th e s tone. r on of the rain is l ac d u on and ' bru sed po ti g p e p it, i

o a as e b means of th e s mal ler one wa er be e i nt p t y , t e occasionall from the a t st h and i ng dipp d y j r Wi h he , “fr a s to prevent the paste om dh ering to th e s tone . c en l round is a d n o l um W h en s uffi i t y g , it p tte i t a p, and pl aced on one corner of th e s tone ; and another to th e h andful is s ubmitted s ame Operation. ar T h e mal ze prep ed in this manner is call ed bayo.

‘ Man seem contented x with a s mall ca e in its raw . y k a e as hed down w h a lass of w a er for a s t t , w it g t ,

t ca es and fr ed in th e fa our e m n c r i nto fia k i v it a te a, o

- l ba e before th e re l our h oe s a e . s imp y k d fi , ike c k This meth od of preparation is exceedingly tedi ous and much of the nu r e ual of th e ra n , t itiv q ity g i ,

s neces s ar l be l os .b th e ash n under mu t i y t, y w i g it oes wh l e bra ed be w een th e two s ones l eavm g i y t t , g behind littl e more th an th e ins ol ubl e portion Thes e detail s will s erve to giv e an idea of the — i mpl e s tructure of s ociety in this country Where e ach fam l ns ul a e d and e endin u on i s el f i y, i t d p g p t , i s e mpl oyed in operations w hich could be s o much be er and more ui l med b a d c ou tt q ck y perfor , y j u i i s divis ion of l abour

ece mber l 6 h eft Ob s os at 8 A . S o fl t . L i p , t p ad in th e wood to c o an l ham oc s in p s o k d s ing m k , S T - N A N A A A . 1 63 the m ddle of the da and arri ed at Gerach e t 2 i y, v a , — fo il . M . ur ee n m es . his is a s mall d l P t T , u l l ook in ll a e s ua ed in a narrow all e g vi g , it t v y, surround ed by high hill s ; found good quarters in th e govern ' men h ous e on th e l aza o os e th t , p , pp it e church . ' T h e de scent into th e all e was s omewh atd fficul v y i t, a s i h rain h a n ren ered the tena 1ous l g t vi g d c , oily cl ay v December C 1 th . Lef arach e at A r 7 t 7, A . M.

' —a rl ved at S an a - na at noon t e t h t A w n y mil es . T is

“ is a m s erabl e lla e of wen h uts bu l u on a i vi g t ty , i t p

4 r d e . is rendered amous b t e ofthe i g It f , y h s1gnmg con en on for an arm s ice b oli ar a d Mor v ti i t yB v n ill o. T h e h ouse inw hich th e r al eneral s h ad been , iv g

u to s ‘ l od ed was oin ed o t 11 . Two cham ers g , p t , b , o en n n o osi e direc ons in o cen re room p i g i pp t ti t a t ,

" s ne o h em for re ose a r th u e w ere as ig d t t p , fte e b sin s s of th e meeting and th e fes tivities on the occasion But Boli ar w s h n to a l th s h ad ceas ed . v i i g pp y i firs t Opportunity of communication with his distin i ed ad ers ar to the bes ad an a e h ad his g u s h v y t v t g , d i th e cen re room and n n camp bed move nto t , i viti g do t e a e th e h ol e n h w s con Morill o to h s m , w ig t a O n a n l ea e nextmorn sumed in conversation. t ki g v in or llo was h eard to a h a wh a e er h g, M i s y, t t t v mig t s ce h e ne er woul be th e termination of th e armi ti , v d again be found oppos ed l n arms to his friend. In d s h or l af er h e emb r ed this h e kept his w or ; t y t , a k for S a n and h as been s nce under th e l e of p i , i , tit C o e a a rom nen ac or i n he con unt of C arthag n , p i t t t al s ons a torn th e mo her cou r and v i , which h ve t nt y NO T E S O N C O LO M BI A .

ended in restoring F erdinand to. his l egitimate i h s and ma n the en nsul a a ro i r g t , ki g P i p v nce of France T h e results of th e convention of S anta - Ana w er h hl ad n a eous to the C ol omb an BO e ig y va t g i s . l ar was enabl ed to coll ec his sca ered f rce too iv t tt o s, wea at th e ' eriod of th e arm s ce to Oo e h k p i ti , p wit th e enem He h en a e the s ul a ed n ce o y . t g v tip t oti f r th e recommencemen of hos l es a a a t ti iti , nd g ined com l e e c or O er a w ell a o n ed a p t vi t y v pp i t rmy .

- December 8th . ef S an a A na at A i L t t 7, M . arr ed at rux ll o— went one mil es iv T i t y , at P . M . resting two h ours on th e road; hus hav1n rema ned one da at ocu o and T , g i y T y , ano her at A ua Ob s os w e h a e ra erse t g i p , v t v d, in ' e e rIdin da s f om Bar uise metO o s v n g y , r q , ne hundred and s x - hree m l es ; w hich d s ance 1s one m le i ty t , i i t i o e h n h a f om al enc a to Bar uisemeto a m r t a t t r V i q , nd

ccu ied th e s ame l en h oftime . T he l a er s a e o p gt tt t g , o e er a nfin el ore arduous a d i h w v , w s i it y m n di sa reeable h an the former on accoun of th e badnes g t , t s f th e roads and the h e h t of the moun a ns e o ig t i , n el O ed b ll n : m hich ou desc v p y chi i g mis ts fro w , y end ” n o s ifll n all s so rofound narrow and i t t g v ie , p , , des i u e of rees h a our s ua on is l le be er t t t t , t t y it ti itt tt h an th of b n O en or th e foc t at eing pl aced i an v , us a e of concav mirror . ° ’ rux ll o in 8 4 nor h l a ude was founded T i , 0 t tit , b Die o Garc a de In 1556 butth e s e y g i P aredes, ; it

s aband ned o n to, an ins urrection of the In Wa o , wi g n and tl s tablish e 15 0 dia s, w as permanen y e d i n 7 .

166 NO TE S O N C OL’OMBIA

W e were furnish ed with excell ent quarters in

house of a l ad wh o was a bs en at' er t th e y, t h jpl an a

“ in ar nas be n i r tion V i , it i g n ch a ge of a poor wi ow wh o occu ed h h r fa i of sma l d , pi it wit e mly l ch ildren during th e temporary absence of the mis e s h s oman as ef t s in tr s . T i w w us ul o u in furnis h g our meal s and in ro d n our li l e s ore of cho , \ p vi i g tt t

’ ’ col a e rl ce c. for th e roa . S h e s ell as er t , , & d , a w h ldren as al a s n rio l e l o ed and chi , w w y i d us t us y mp y , extremely anxious to s erveus ; We derived much usemen in convers m th e l l e famil and am t g with itt y, e n th e children to s n dance or read for In g g i g, , S tTti h e moth er s ometimes j oined 111 th e song

’

, e had a ecul arl l n o e h h s h p i y p ai tive t ne of voic , w ic h ad s o e h n rul affec n in‘ m t i g t y ti g it . [ O n the e en n of our arr al abou en l ad es v i g iv , t tw ty i

and enl emen came In a bod to a s a s i . g t y, p y u vi t s as l a e and e ere r r n to r es h e r A it w t , w w eti i g t, t i ' curi os w as d sa o n ed; T h e nex da w e re ity i pp i t t y, ‘ ceived many visits from th e l adies and gentle men f th e l ace amon th e res fro the Mil ar o p ; g t, m it y ommandan wh o h ad ass1 ned us uar ers i n C t, g q t '

' ek consequence of th e l etters from C olonel Manr y . / e a t him f r u es wh ch h e a reed to W pplied o o m l , i g ' furnish but a ore han doubl e the us omar , t m t c t y

We remai ned four da s at ruxillo 111 ex ec a m , y T , p t tion of procuri ng mul es at a l ess ruInous expens e ; but th e commandant excus ed himself by represent I h a a n a n th e ser ce ng, t t ll the animal s mai t i ed for vi of ravellers er in read n o h e ublic t , w e kept i ess f r t p T RUXI LLO . 167 ser c as OwIn to th e roxim of the enem vi e, , g p ity y, it was not known at what moment th ey might be re e howe er addres s ed to Ge e u red . A o n ral q i n t , v , Cl e en at his h ead - uar ers Betio ue r d m ti, q t , q , p o uced t e desired effec in ins truc ions to th e commandan h t, t t . I h ere firs t remarked th e use th e peopl e inake of t r s ed 0 108 of obacco called ohimaa he exp e s 3 t , . It is u uall on a ned in a snuff- box and is a s y c t i , t ken by i n th e fin er n o the li uor and a l d ppi g g i t q , pp yl ng it t e u h is h hl r ed a o th mo t . It ig y p iz , nd much used by th e w omen. T h e o re cases of wh ch h ad no ced i g it , i I ti n many of the owns On th e rou e 15 h ere er re al en t t , v y p v t.

T he d a before we l eft rux ll o th e la } y T i , dy in wh os e h ouse w e were quartered returned from h er Th e erfec unconcern s he e pl antation. p t vi nced on findin us in os se ss n of h er mans on s howed g p io i , that s uch i ntrusions w ere not unfrequent ; and h er e ex res s ons con e ed th e dea h a h polit p i v y i , t t t ey were h far from be ing unacceptable . T is may convey d a of th e s a e of soc e for In some i e t t i ty ; , a more ad vanced s a e of refinemen no h n can be ma n d t g , t, t i g i gi e n to t e l n of a famil han more revolti g he f e i gs y, t th us o h a e its r ac n aded and to be h ab uall t v p iv y i v , it y sub e to th e nnu erabl e ncon en ences cons e j ct i m i v i , quent upon th e indiscriminate admission of s trana t ge s . CHAPTER IX .

— LEA VE TR X LLO - A RM - O SE - V A LE R A MEN OZ A—w , U I F H U I D — — — ° TIlVIOTHE S FIE STA or INDE PE NDE NCE PA RA MO ME

RIDA .

er d. e ft x o O Decemb 23 W l e Tru ill at noon. n

“ rou h th e s uburb e fou d o r do our w ay th g , w n u wi w fam l dra n u in f o h and h er littl e i y, w p ront f er ’ e ot to which sh e h ad re urned on th e a th atch d c , t r rival of th e mistres s of th e h ouse we h ad occupied

as e as sed in‘ the ful ness of h er ra ude and w p , g tit , sh e ov erwh el med us with benedictions and wishes or a ood ourne w h ex ra a an es cula o f g j y, it t v g t g ti ti ns .

“ W e roceeded fif een m l es to a hous e o the p t i , n road, w found ood as ura e for o r ml wh ere e g p t g u u es . We h o n in o the bes room hich I n ar were s w t t , w S I v iably approprl ated for th e purpose of h ospItabl e r enter

tainment. is enerall s r ed of furn ure e It g y t ipp it , x ( e th e nd s ensabl e abl e and ch a rs or bench es c pt i i p t i , but h sis endered n ces s r In cons n e t t i r e a y, eque c of he nd scr m na e adm1s s10 n of tra e l r At fi i i i i t v l e s . rst I fel a rel uc ance to e er ouses ch our u t t nt h , whi g ide represented as not public ; but th e necess ity of the cas o t soon I eas e, and the welcome f he owners, sured me and became s were foll ow n the , I ati sfied w e i g cus om of th e co n f er th e rece on b the t u try . A t pti y h os h e ri a e a ar men s t, usually retires to his p v t p t t ; hi hos i al rse ex end to fur her s p t ity cannot, of cou , t t en er t tainment .

1 0 OT E S O N C O LO M 7 N BI A .

' not cos him one cen as h e mad a t t, e it practice to ’ e at w i h the adres and ride the Al cal de s h o t P rses . A no her ofi cer boas e h a h e h ad t t d, t t press ed h orses ' for the ubh c s ervw e and fl afterw p , ards sold th em for

hi s ow n us e and re ended to us if th e act b th e , p t j t y , y w an of unc ua li in the o ernme h e w ere t p t ty g v nt . T s e [ "

bo h cons idered ood officers and , n t g , o doubt h ad b e n h onoura l e men . h a e o be , T t th irc ns ciences h ung

' s o l o os el bou h em ust b a tr ' y a t t , m e t ibuted to th e ef feet of exampl e ; for w h ere men w ill thus publ icly ast of h eir dis h ones h e mus bd t ty, t y t have been in of as s ocia in wi h h ose w h o a l a t g t t , pp uded

” and oo ar in h eir dis raceful rre ul ari ie t k p t t g i g t s .

, e retend h a neces s o Th y p , t t ity c mpel s th em to s hift h s el es and h a if a a for t em v , t t m n were to confine h imself to th e d c a es of h ones h e w oul d al w i t t ty, ays

m e mbarras s ed and be cons idere e l ' rema , d m an y Of

th e inh abi an s h emsel es . But hese men by t t t v t , w h o rob pm ate individual s unde1 the pretex t of s and th e al e e nabil of th e o er neces ity, l g d i ity g v n t a its credi ors In one n h will a ble ment o p y t , ig t, g m a ums wh ch w oul d s u or he m for a ear aw y s , i pp t t y . ’ rm - ho s e o t e r e ber 24 th . eft th e f a u n oad Dec m L h , M.and af er a er l easan ride of tw 8 . at , A t v y p t o rs o er th e S a bana ar a a ch but uncul ti h ou , v L g , I i ted l aIn arr ed at V al eI ia— hir een mile s va p , iv t t all ll a e of we h ouses and a ha ched Sm vi g t nty , t t r ill a do l s ow es Its founda ion chu ch . This v ge ubt e s t to th e r t of a o ao nd coffee es a e p ox1m1 y a f m us cac a t t , T a l ed La a a c l H acienda de Pl t . ‘ It is s ituated at th e s outhern extremity of the sa V A LE RI A . 171

anna and mus formerl h a e been a v , t y v n extremely r h l an a on ud in from th e fi ic p t ti , j g g ne spacious mane

on and out- h ob ses its cos l e si , t y ncl os ures of ram

' me cl a co red wi h il es a ‘ d y , ve t t , nd th e extensw e

' n e f nobl e s h ade - rees l an a o ed , r g t , p t to s hield the more delicate coffee and c acao trees from the direct

' n uence of, the s un i fl , th e mois ture of th e “s oil from b n 0 0 ra ei g pidly . Y et

1 now all w ears , th e a earance of d l a ida io , pp i p t n. Th e e ncl os ure In “s ome places is overturned ; th us

,o enl n the w to fur h er des ruc on f om th e c a p g ay t t ti . r at tl e of t e neI hbourIn ai h g g pl n. The nume rous h ous es are outof re air and ome of h p , s t e fine s h ade rees s ri ed of h eir l ea es a nd bar rea h ei t , t pp t v k, r t r

“ blanched run s and s read h e1r us el es s br nch t k , p t a es,

' ' in to th e scene 3. doubl e a earance of dose . giv g pp , l ation. This Is s aid to be a confi scated estate of some de T e voted l oyali s t . he n gl ect and I ul nous condition ma be attr bu ed to the m olic Of o ernmen y i t I p y g v t, in renti ng these es tates to pel s ons w hose only oh ject Is to enrich thems elv es during thei r brief pos ‘ s e s on w hich w ill onl con nue ll the comm s s i , , y ti , ti i s ion appointed for th atpurpose as sign th em to th eir A s e m be the d ne mas e1 s . no er au a ese tio w t th c y , I n of th e sl aves formei ly attach ed to th e s oil ; all ul ed

a i defe nce of the com b b th e ro to t ake rms n y, y p e c mi s e of freedom afte1 five years s l vi e .

i h s ne l ec of a ricul ture is one .of the di sad T i g t g t ‘ a a e — th e o i n e t h ow e er de l ora v nt g s of e r v l ut o ; y , v , . p bl e s uch desolation may restoration of O N C OLOM NOTES BIA .

: one sl ave to his rights as a man is an ampl e equi~

v al ent . T h e Hacienda de Pl ata 1s nota solitary instance

‘ there m e many es tates which h ave yielded from went to for hous an doll ars a ear n t y, ty t d y , ow com l e tel w as e and un rofi abl e p y t p t . W e‘ ch an ed our ul es at al eri a an g m V , d s et out “g

abou 41 . M . i n a s h ower of ram bein s urre t , P , g p d ” é to this moveme nt by a report th at s ome ofMoral es !

i s we e h oni l ex ec e d and arri ed i th part e r y p t , v n e cveni s omewha after dar at Me ndoza— wel e ng, t k, t v miles

h l e w e ut u for th e first time at th e A t t is p ac p p, , ’ ries s h ous e h a n been l e sa sfied h h a p t , vi g litt ti wit t t as s ne d us b th e s econd Al cal e o offi a ig y d , w h ci ted in th e abs ence Of his chief, abs ent at his Own h ouse ’ O n ri in t about one l eague distant . d g to he Padre s

' d oor we erce e d from th e s ound Of usical ~ , p iv , m in

- s truments h a s ome en er a nmen was in re a , t t t t i t p p r on e found u on en erin a numb ati . W , p t g, er Of l all t e bo s as b e ll a ers and a aren h s m l . vi g , pp t y y , e d It was Chr s as eve T he adre af er ass n , i tm P , t ig i n us s ea s atone nd of the room w al ed u an g t e , k p d

‘ down it a a r o l ac c S hor l com w h n i f comp en y . t y,

A n action w as fought on th e Sahara Larga a fewdays after w r e t ave1 sed it. Moral es a1 rived at Mendoza on the 4th of

’ ' Januar . B this n l m n f us rocl amation which y y ge t e a s amo p , C a tain S te ted a i s w ith much s irit all forei n p pence pro s ga n t p , g ’ ers who sh ould dare to l and on any of his Cath ol ic Majesty s oss essions in America without his racious l eave w ere sub p , g23 , jected to th e inconvenience of three years labour on his forti

fications .

OT ES O N C O LO M ! N BIA .

h er December 25t . Ev y person bei ng empl oyed

' ' i ii reli ious du es we were unabl e to se ou ll l g ti , t t ti ’ ‘ W e arr ten o cl oc . ed at Timothes an nd a , k iv , I i n l a e— 2411 m l es at h il e M . h n . T e i h b v g 1 i , ig t, P a i to re tants h ad retired res t . W e we s ome time in fi nd ? in the Al calde s house when at l as w e h ad suc g t, ceed d h e w as e her a bsen or unw ll n to e , it t i i g open r h s a t e his doo . T i w s h only time w e discovered any thing like a dispositiono f unwfllingness to re el ve us and we a r bu ed to th e l aten s th c , tt i t it es of e ’ h ou a l n to a n adm s s on to th e Al cal s r F i i g g i i i de , o e r Ch ris ans in d s res s we l oo ed for like th ti i t , k re

‘

f to the ch u ch . W e noc ed an th e d l ie r k k , d oor was o ened un o us b th e adre not h we w h p t y P , , o ver, it ll ues on onsi e out rath er a si y q ti , c d ri ng our move ments were s ubj ect to the ever - procras tinating AI1 caldes and m eded b the na ural dif cul es of , i p y t fi ti t f r a r e as to he cause o ou l a e r al . th e rout , t iv W e e n o our ammoc s w hou su er and turn d i t h k it t pp , assed the n h uncomfor abl on account of the p ig t t y,

‘ 1 ' f C ol omb a the oth 26th and By a jl aw o i , 2 , ,

‘ ‘ ’ h a of Dece mber ' are s t as de as na onal 27t d ys , e i ti ’ ‘ f ‘ Th e firs t da is h a of nde ndence es tivals. y t t i pe ; t s ec d the ann ers ar of th e uniouw and the he on , iv y

‘ co and the th rd is in commemoration of ns titution ; i , v c or e and i s consecra ed to h os e w h o h a e i t i s, t t v ll ‘ Th e eremon es of fa en in arms for the republic . c i each day conform to theObj ects cel ebrated Al hou h we w ere anx ous to s et Out earl we ” t g i y, were soon s atisfied th at it Was in vain to attempt to E S E E FI TA O F IND E P ND E NC .

, mo e ll af er the es ta at th e r s of be n ra ed v ti t fi , i k i g t

b our nex h os on accoun Of our l a e arr val . y t t, t t i , A er s all the n wh o ft ma s , me \ t or s al a hor e as sembl ed th e h ad te s , in e P re a e and the Al cal des at their he d . Th y rode to the ch urch door nd rece e d th e na onal fla and two' , a iv ti g, ’ o hers hos e O e ezue a nd C und namarca th e t , t f V n l a i , former o rnmen s h ch ow cons u e th e con g ve t , w i n tit t oli a ere a 1 d hro s dated republic . Th e fl gs w c l r e t ugh th vll a e b th e adre and Al caldes followe d b e i g y P , y th e ca al cade and accom an ed b th e h arsh mus i c v , p i y of th a t drum T he banners e Indian pipe nd wo s. w ere th en depos ited in the church ; th e cavaliers d es n t o e ual ar ies h eade ivided th e msel v i to w q p t , d b the i e and th e ch ef Al cal de and ta n th eir y pr st i , ki g

” “ ‘ s ions at t o corners of the l aza on the s ame tat w p , side c ence racm a onall acros s the , omm d g di g y

s uare . A s s oon as one f the r s ar e an q o paty t t d, ‘ opponent from th e other s et ofi at full speed ; the

- aim of th e s ortbei to ass i ad ance of th e ad 1 , n n p g l p v ’ verse h ors eman n t al o e her unli e a risoner s , o t g t k p

‘ base on h orsebac h s con inued wi hou n er , k . T i t , t t i t ruption for a l ength oftime as th ose wh o h ad cros s

” ‘ ed th e s Of s eed “ e the quare in th e contes t p , k pt fl ” m ll a - o n b e ur n al on th e s des to th e i g i g, y r t ni g g i , l ace of ds h e erformed evo s ar in . f er ar p t t g A t w , t y p ’ l utions simil ar to th e mil itary manoeuvres of our

In e er ci w n and ill a e hrou houtthe v y ty, to , v g t g coun r s i mil ar or s varied b the as e and t y, sp t , y t t ‘ w eal h of ri n W e w ere the n arecar ed o . t commu ity, NOT E S 1 O N COLO MBI A

unfortunate i n bei ng l n th e poores t vill ages during ra a h e cel eb ons . At o o h e w ere a nd t ti B g t , t y tte ed h much arade a e e In ha he e wit p nd xp ns e . t t city t r w ere four ar es re resen in the four uar ers Of , p ti , p t g q t

th l obe . S e e g om of th e dres s es of the A siatics are. s a d to h a e cos u a d o ll i v t pw r s of ne housand do ars . [ t nde enden l of the cours m an man o h er I p t y g, d y t ceremon es fea s of a l and a re s s uch as i ; t gi ity dd s , runnl ng at the ring with th e l ance,and striking off the h eads of i ma es wi h the s abre w ere in roduced g t , t A represe ntative Of America gained the palm of s w hi h roduce d nol ittl e exul a on cour e, c p t ti 6 h T h e December 2 t . ceremonies of Timothes pre

e e s fr m a n ha ll a ll four . M. v nt d u o l e vi g t t vi ge ti , P

WV e t to La uer a a oor ll a e of wen - five go P t , p vi g t ty — h u s a l l e af er s e en w el e m les . t , itt t v t v i

'

La Puerta at s e e A . ecem er . ef n . M D b 27th L t v ,

‘

ros e a er i h moun a n called a ara mo. c s d v y h g t i , p th e t e encoun ered a er s ron iere Upon op, w t v y t g, p ed a mos ex ens e mg, col d wi nd ; but enj oy t t iv ,

”

hou h cheerl es s ros ec . For [I0 bus l n own t g p p t , t i g t or s m l n ll a e o h uman h ab a ion h uman i i g vi g , n it t , ’ bein or the race of one e x e the nearl obl g, t , c pt y i

- terated foo - a h and th e 1nnumerabl e r de cros ses t p t , u , \ l aced u on the s ummit b de ou and we ar tra p p , y v t y il ers a h r to r ss th e con ction h a ou ve , re e e, p e vi t t y

are not al one in the worl d .

a 1 In crossi n th e aramo th e wind, s o s ron t g p , _ t g interval s as to oppose considerabl e res is tance to

’ our ro es s and re n on e ni ence to the e es y p gr , g a t i c v y mee n i s sses s len l on and ti g w th no obstacl e , pa i t y ,

, N O TE S ON C O LOM A 178 BI .

' h h due near c w as vacant . w h ouse or it, w i ; e accept th e l a er to i e l es s incon en ence e d of tt , g v v i to th e S u r and rea fas e family . ppe b k t w re furnish ed from ’ h us . A s t th e Al calde s o e he Weath er w as cold, e res ned our h am ocks a nd sle u on be w ig m . pt p d s eads formed Of rou h w ooden fr mes co ere t , g a , v d

1 h dr hide s re ch ed h l a on- wit a y , t t tig t y cross and c i h a h ese are d ea s fined w t t cks . T the only be s t d o A f er l ea n ne found n the road . t vi g th e town xt morn n w e met th e Al cal de wh o accos ed us o i g, , t p litel and in u red w he her we h ad been s a sfied y, q i , t ti with our rece ption and entertai nment .

e e f Mucuch e ath im . ec mber 28th . s A M D L t i , , ' — and arriv ed at th e city of Merida twenty - eigh t

l e at i . in la es s s x . M ass hrou t e l mi , P p g t gh h vi g

Mucuraba and Fabay . Mer da founded i n 1558 b Juan Rodri o Sua i , y g ’ ° ’ ” rez i n 8° 10 nor h l a i ude and 3 10 3 0 eas , t t t , t i ude rom W as h n on is beau full s i a e l ong t f i gt , ti y tu t d u an el e a ed l al n abou four h undred fee abo O v t p , t t ve the s mall ri ers Mucu un Albare as and C hama v j , g , ,

‘ h ash i ts bas e h ree s But hes e w hic w On t ides . t

" ers as he are c l ed are not 1na i abl e ac riv , t y a l , v g ; cording as the s eas on is wet or dry,they are eith er b ubblin broo s or i m e uous orren s g k , p t t t T he ci con a ns o h t ten housan l n ty t i fr m eig t, o t d abi an w h e mos eal h h t ts . It as formerly one of t t w t y and el e an in [th e coun r butw as o all des ro : g t t y, t t y t y

' ed b th e e ar A ar e . or ion is y thquake of 1812 . l g p t s l in rui ns ma former 1nh abitants rema n til , ny of the i burie ing d under th e rubbis h of the h ouses . The l M 1 ERID A . 179

rema n of a b s ho ere r co ere a t i s i p w e v d, short ime before o r arr al and nh ume N e u iv , i d. ar the city h ere IS a e cre ce for ed b th e a e t de p vi , m y s m con vul sion w h ch oy ert rned the bu ld n s , i u i i g

- he l o s i n th e ou s r s Of the o are e t T t , t ki t t wn, n l o the cul a ion of barle and ndi n o c osed f r tiv t y I a c rn, s bein c for fora e . h ese encl os ure of rammed l a g T g y,

’ " b own and enerall hi h e a l oom a ea r , g y g , giv g y pp r

ance to its a roach . T h e s ree s cro s n at ri h pp t t , s i g g t an l es s a h w ell a ed and cl ean are furn g , tr ig t, p v , , is h e a of l i d with s tre ms imp d water . ‘ T he mos t s triki ng Obj ect is th e beautiful appear Of the ne h bourin m ountal ns the u i s ance ig g , s mmt ’ h are ca w h er e ual s now call ed th of whic p t it p p t , e

” e T h e h hes ea is N evada of M rida . ig t p k

h e s ea . A f er ass n ou h th e l o fee t above t t p i g thr g w, ies and s uffer n f m t e exc ss i e h ea w arm vall , i g ro h e v t, ” it is absol utely refres hing to gaze upon this s tu

Qfirndous s ummit of dazzl ing bi illiancy . Th e s ight of this s nowy dome recalls th e rocol f na i e l and w h os e am l e os om is le ction o my t v , p b b at his ime co ered wi h a s h ee of e ual proba ly t t v t t . q

' t m coun r en are not erm e d whil e purity ; bu y t ym p itt , d b its rese nce to a h er th e ol den invigora te y p , g t g

- an e or mimi c the balm bre a h of s r n . or g , y t p i g

am re m nded of the me o f th e. ear. He re too, I i ti y io and h ab h a al S uc h is th e force of a s sociat n it, t t h now and m l s u er is December thoug I k , y ip tt it , t se em to wan the n ernal con c on h a th s s ill , I t i t vi ti t t i t is th e case ; and every thi ng around conSpi rmg o or l rel a se n o the h abi ual aid th e del usion, I s h t y p i t t TES O N LO N O C O MBI A .

belief th at I am enj oyi ng the deligh tful s eason of

s ummer. A sl h u eas f eelin is hus rod ig t n y g t p uced, by the constant necessity of res orting to a mental effort to arr e at a s a sfac or concl us on wh iv ti t y i , ich is no sooner a a ned han des ro ed b th e im re tt i , t t y y p s

l s o r h o s 1on f s u rounding objects . Thos e w h ave been anno ed on isi i n a s ran e l ace atfindin hat y , v t g t g p , g t ' e th e s un r s es inth e ,w es or h wh o af er n a i t ; , t taki g na in a s a e coach ercel ves th e confidentand s ub p t g , p t

’ rn driver is ben u on w hirlin h im in an o o bo . t p g pp ' e ir c i t a f his ourne ll be abl s it d e t on o th t o j y, wi e to a compreh end thi s s ens ti on. There are boil i ng s prings on th e mountai ns of r da an a s l er m ne near th e c but it i Me i , d i v i ity, s not a mer o a w or ed t resen . or l C er nd k p t F y , pp s il ver w ere o o coas of aracas but es i f und n the t C , th e m nes e bee l s T h e onl me h od now em o h av n o t . y t pl yed in C ol ombia to procure the ‘ precmus metal s is by

W e w ere furn s hed h excell ent uar ers i wit q t , and

e s s fro the il ar o er or th . receiv d vi it m M it y g v n , e In

' enden Of the ro nce the ch ef eccl esias ic t t p vi , i t , a

‘ number of ries s an 1 he ri nci l nh ab an p t , d t p pa i it ts . A t n h the wea h er w as uncomfor abl col ig t t t y d, al th ough the mercury s tood at My sl eeping a ar men was furn s hed -w h a er re t s hr p t t i it v y p t y ine, neatly and tastefully decorated with th e figures of

“ ’ ‘ th e r n and nfan in wax ' l l d adorned w h Vi gi I t, , , f l it fre sh flowers ; most probably by the h ands Of our — ’ fair hos tess the witness of her secret and daily de n

C A R x H PTE .

“ — - — — L EA VE ME RIDA SA N JUA N MIL ITA RY E SCORT BRIDGE — — ' — - MOUNTA INS DA NGE RO US Bonn E sTA NQUBs CA CA O

— — - —a T RE E f BE SOIN on SO CIE TE BM LA DOBE s TOBACCO

’ O OL E S— LA R A — ARA M — TAI{ A— MON P I G IT P O IB C UCUTA .

r th e M e Decembe 30 . f th e c of rda at 1 L t ity i , P .

- f A rr ed at E edo ten m l es at i . h M . iv g i , e T is n ll a e Of one s ree con a n n u is a lo g vi g , t t, t i i g pwards a h undred houses co ered w h l es an Of , v it ti , d sur ded b fine ardens a d f roun y g n ruit trees . Oranges

' and a les were row n b th e s de of each o h pp g i g y i t er, and excelle n bl ac berr es are found al on th e road t k i g . rom the fru s row n in he o en air h s m F it g i g t p , t i us t ou h e em era ur of o r s ri n et be ab t t t p t e u p g, y w e ex n uncomf e ree f l ar perienced a ortabl e d g o co d . Qu ’ tered at th e Alcalde s .

at 8 A . rr e mber 3 l . ef E edo M. A d Dece s t L t g , iv — a - Juan a sca eri n Vi ll a e 12 m les at at S n , tt g g i , In the e en n Our C reol e ser an re o ned noon. v i g, v t j i reco eri n his sword an us ; h e h ad s ucceeded in v g , d a l on march wh ch w as punish ed for his frolic by g , i was Of servwe to him.

n l ea Mer da we h ad been furn sh ed w h O v1ng i , i it Of S an Juan b the a l etter to the Commandant , y ent an n elli en and commandant of the Departm , i t g t his le er con ained an well informed Ital ian. T tt t der to furnish th e ar w h an escor if on our or , p ty it t, , S A - N JUA N . 1183

arr al at S an Juan the o cer a one iv , ffi s t ti d at th at lace sh oul d h n it necess ar to our s af p , t i k y ety . In co e uence w w ere furni sh e h a O ns q , e d wit n fficer

moun ed and we men on foo . t , t nty, t

’ M . On l ea i n th O cl oc A . e o e k, v g t wn, w were h ail ' ’ ed b th e d fferen ar es on ' dut and at a i y i t p ti y, l ttl e dis tance f und th e escor on the road wh ere h , o t , t ey h ad been s a ioned wi h heir arms in h eir h an t t , t t t ds, to be read at an hour w e chose to s et for a r y y w d .

B the li h of a cl ear moon we h ad an O ‘ y g t , ppol tunit of O bs ervm dis inc l th e curi ous ca al ca y g t t y v de . mar h e d i n sin l e e T h e s oldiers c fil receded , g , p by the Officer th e roa d or ra her moun a n ass n t ; , t t i p , o admitting a more extended front . Th en foll owed our o wn ar l ed as w as nvariabl the cas e b p ty, , i y , y r uide in full cos tdme w i h s urs u o ou g , ; t p p n hi s bare

' eel s w ord and cros s bel carabine a ta h e h , t, t c d to his addl e and lance w h its l l e fla s u r s , it itt g, ppo te d by oc e i n th e s rr u s wm l n from th e ri h a s k t ti p, g g g t arm — by a l oop presenti ng a great res embl ance to a C os T he ba a e w h its conduc ors and a c . a s a k gg g it t , sm ll b h u t a guard roug t p he re r. i e uali ies o the road s ome mes Of T h e n q t f , ti s o ee an ascen and at o h ers descendin so abru s t p t, t g pt l h a a er endicul ar osi ion coul d notbe mal n y, t t p p p t d l e afforded a ood o ortuni tained i n the sa d , g pp ty of

seem ea h n ividual of th e ar . Th e offi cer g c i d p ty , s n an ma ed coun enance bl ac h a r po ses smg a i t t , k i , l ar e a h s wi h a uic ene g whiskers and mus t c io , t q k, p trating eye,was mounted on a sorry h orse, not a s O E S ON C O LOM N T BI A .

‘ s His a a o a t a our mul es . c r s n n i n eren l arge p i , diff le h a n small s c s s u e ded at ea h edd s add , vi g ti k sp n c

’ b a cord for s tl rru s an a h al er of ro e for a y , p , d t p , T e h r f d b Al ca l de b1 idl e. h o se was urnishe y the , Whose bus1nes s it IS to ans wer requi sitions of this n for the bl be1n ro ki d, pu ic s ervwe ; each town g p

‘ vided With twenty or more mul es and horses be

n i to th e are th e ro - 1 l o g ng e government . A s th y p er of no one no care is a en of h em he are p ty , t k t , t y

‘ e o ll ccas ons overl ade n a nd mos cruell ridd n n a o i , , t y

‘ Th e bac s of ' all are s hoc in l all ed t reated . k k g y g , e erfecl raw th e w h ol e ex en of th e ac som , p t y t t p k dl e nor does h s exem hem from h e r l abo s ad , t i pt t t i rious ser ce u on r ads of wh ch one who h as vi p o , i , ot ra ll ed l n h s coun r can form o conce n t ve t i t y , n p hes e a en a d much abus ed an mals a e tion. T p ti t n i , r ’ e W h bro en l bs s ome s o no - nee h a s en it k im ; k ck k d, t t

b re ea edl s r in one a ains : the o h er th e y p t y t ik g g t t , fies h i w orn from th e bone an o hers w h heir s ; d t , it t oofs urned inw ar h obbl n on h eir fe l oc h t d, i g t t k o n s e t erfor n th e se r ce of sound an mal s j i t , y p mi g vi i T hey are k ept toili ng on till th ey fall down dead

the road w h th ad u on ei1 bac s . W e in , it e l o p th k as sed th e carcase f man and s ome mes s aw p s o y, ti

- h em ie n he - b a t y l di g t ir l as t re th . T h e oflicer,w hose l ong l egs nearly s craped th e round saun ered al on W dei ni n to g , t g, g g

uide is s eed e en in th rous as s es . g h t , v e p re uen l to res h mse f h rode as if on a s de F q t y, t i l , e i s addle or i b ros sed o er the ommel , w th oth feet c v p ’ the h alter res ting on th e animal s neck 5 th us giv

N O T E S O N C O LO MBIA

' gacious animal s k now th eir bus ines s perfectly well ;

' in descendm h e1r s e is abou six inc es a d g, t t p t h , n under he s e c rcums ances th e mos co en ar t i t , t g t gu ments of the whip and heel produce not the sl igh t es t im ress m o th e r l p n n mos t spi ited mu e . S hortly after s unrl s e w e w ound down a s teep" l h l to a r er o er w hich w as a br d e . T h i iv , v i g e officer bea in the an s of his h or e his , t g fl k s w ith l on dan lin l e s s run ah ead to a ro ec in g g g g , p g p j t g ar th urn of th road o erh an i n th e brid e p t i n e t e , v g g g , an a e a s h rill s i nal w hich af er a brief n er d g v g ; , t i t va of ex ec a ion w as a ns w ered b a s mall ic ue l p t t , y p q t t h a uard s a ione d a t e ss . g , t t p f T he m ll 1 11 er hic w s a , w h hen firs t seen from the h e h mi h be com are d to a ri a ro e ig t, g t p b nd, p v d to

1 be abou ei ht or ni ne fee broad dee and l a , t g y ty t , p

id . T he br d e formed of one ch is hr p i g , ar , t own be w e t o roc s i t a e w n he n rro . t n k , west part T he method of cons truction is to l ay a cradling of l o s co ered w h s ones in a manne g , v it t , s uch r that each s uperior l og sh all proj ect beyond the one h u on wh c res s . In h s wa t abu men s p i it t t i y, as he t t ncreas e in h e h h e ad a ow rds i ig t, t y v nce likewise t a the cen re of the s ream in th fo r e ul a t t , e rm of an i r g r arch and he n h e a a reach ar ; w t y ppro ch within , e connected by l ong be ams ; N o reliance for s upport is pl aced on th e key stone pri ncipl e ; th e bridge s s n of two l e ers th e e of th e s ones and i ti g v , w ight t rubb sh co n er s n er rid es i u t acti ng th at of th e pas e g . B g of his descr n re fro hree to s ix fee wide t iptio a m t t , ’ co ered w h h b t o a l n s . v it reeds and eart , u With ut r i i g MOUNT A IN S . 187

It was not considered s afe for more th an one h orse

man to ass atthe s ame ime . O n o h er occa on p t t si s, it was necess ar to dis moun and r e th n h y t, p ov e s tre gt of the b id e b dr n a mul e a ro r g y ivi g e ss .

‘ T he ofiicer s a isfied b 1n uirie s ha t , t y q t t h e enemy h ad ot been at th e brid e s at h msel f n g , i dow n with

h 1s men to brea fas . h s consis ed of a ch un , k t T i t k of cam e s eca r ed beef and b ead a e , (d i , ) r , w sh d d ow l e u rdien e W h n with a ittl ag a t . il e devouring h is rou h fare h e emar ed h ol d n u and offer - g , r k , i g p 1 in me a iece of his dr e d beef es a es la allinf a g p i , t g ’ ’ de los o czal es de Colombia i fi , (th s is our oflicer s

I a fe minu es h e an ~ fowl . ) p w t d his party w ere on th e march a a n but as w e del a ed s ome me g i ; y , ti , t ot a l or two in ad a h ey g mi e v nce. The roa con nued al on the ourse o th e r er d ti g c f iv , at firs h rou h a l a n of cac us rees af erwards t t g p i t t ; t , on the e of th e moun a n th e r r er foam o s id t i , apid iv m i n at our feet. Th e ili ar escor the a reh e n g t y t, pp s on of th e S an ards th e na ure of the road and i p i , t , the ubl m of the scener ll omb ned to ren s i ity y, a c i ’ f der this day s ride by far th e most interes ting o .

o r o e . T e le a formed on the s de u j urn y h brid p th , i of th e oun a n fol o e th e d rec on w hich o m t i , l w d i ti p d l tfirs as ot much pose the eas t difficul ties . A t it w n el e a ed abo e th e r er but in th e cours e of1 two v t v iv , ’ ours r e found our ascen h ad been cous h id , w e t i derabl e a d h a obabl w e w ere one housand , n t t pr y, t tw “ t e T e h as o h undred feet above h torrent . h pat w ' ex remel na one side th e a mos er en a t y rrow ; on , l t p p dicul ar moun a on th e o h er a fr h ful re » t i n, t , ig t p s i ip ce. OT E S O N CO LO M N BI A .

Wrapped in admira tion at the grandeur of th e s ene w e ro eo n in s l ence. A t one me at: c , d i ti , my dr n t o e tentionw as aw o s m trees across th e river, w hich h ad the appearance of men with the s ugges

‘ ”

ion a h e fw ere x S aniards ; e ur h W e con nu d . o t , t t t y p ti r de for a l on me w i h ou see n r scor at i g ti , t t i g ou e t ; l ength we began to think it h ad taken a different road but s h or l af er found he r conceal ment ; t y t , t i t t e sid s w as owing to he nature of th e path . A s h e of the mountain w ere furrowed w ith immens e ra Vi nes formed b orren s th e road ns ead of de , y t t , i t s cendin con nued on nearl th e s ame l e el re g, ti y v , ounain t th e o t e re tiring into th e m t o b ttom of h cess . o h a en d for a t1me h a wh en we w ere on It s pp e , t t a ro ec n ar of th e road th escor w as i p j ti g p t , e t n one of hese nden a ons and wh en at l as w e cau h t i t ti ; , t, g t a V ew of th e s ol d ers at a d s ance h e d i i i t , t y appeare l e ra s c1 ee 1n o th e roof of a h ou e ik t p g n s . In one pl ace the path w as not more than ten nch es w de h a n been narrowed b a l l e ll i i , vi g y itt ri ; i n o h ers h ad been en r l wash ed awa and t , it ti e y y, s ome ra ell ers wh o receded us had made th e t v , p ,

‘ - a assabl e b means of . s ome brush wood co g p p , y , , ' ' e ’ er d w h ear h . T s al h ever w s v it t he u u widt , h ow , a

O ur u de did not fail to draw our a en on oc g i . tt ti , asmnall to the mos dan erous ces w s c y , t g pl a , ith ome remar abou th e un l eas an ness of a fal s e s e k t p t t p, and the m k of be n dro n d on e in to th e bot» s i g w e , g tt g tom. But the na e of th e l and n l ace fiw ould tur , i g p h a e .been of l l e r ance aftera fall of a hou-a v itt impo t , t

O T E S ON C OLO M N BI A .

h e cacao or ch ocol a e ree 1s a na e of S a~ T , t t , tiv p

h A merl ca ab u as l ar e as a s mal - size a l e nis , o t g l d pp ree s eldom exceed n se en nch es in diame er t , i g v i t , and is extremely beautiful wh en l aden with i ts frui h ch are d s ers ed on h 01 t alks o er the t, w i i p s s t v s em and around th e l ar er branch es resembl n t , g , i g

c rons from he r ell o col our and war a ear . it , t i y w ty pp

ance . T he l ea es are al erna e s al ed droo n v t t , t k ’, pi g, abou a foo l on an hree nches broad elli c t t g, d t i , pti

“ obl on on ed sli h l w a en re and er g, p i t , g t y vy, ti , v y

s moo h on bo h s des w h one mid - ib and man t t i ; it r , y

ran ers e ones connec e b innumerable e ns . t s v , t d y v i e e al s of th e o er are ell o th e cal x of Th p t fl w y w, y a li ht rose colour a nd th e o er h emsel es g , fl w s t v are s mall and pl aced on tufts on th e sides of the

a ch es w h s n l e foo s al ks abou an nc l on . br n , it i g t t , t i h g

abou hree inches in diame er w h esh and t t t , it a fl y

nd h al f an eb h c th e ul l s wh s h and of . r i , w t i k ; p p iti cons1s tence of bu er o a n n t e s eeds of the tt , c nt i i g h which chocol ate 1s made ; there are ge nerally twen

t - five s eed s in each fru and when freshl a her y it, y g t

- d are of a fles h col our. ach elds abou e , E tree yi t tw o or three ounds of fru annuall and comes to p it y, m a ur the four h fif h x s e en h ear t ity t , t , si th, or v t y

' after pl anting from the s eed ; it al s o bears flowers or frui all th e ear round the ual seasons for t y , us ' ” gathering being June and December. A race of cl ear wa er s u lied from th e more t , pp ele a ed be o t cr f er urn n a m ll is v t d f h e eek, a t t i g i , cenducted through the pl antation and empl oyed i n E S T A NQUE S . 19 1 irr a e T e d ig ting th grounds . h hy raulic w ork s of this coun r rinc all for th e ur os es of rr a t y , p ip y p p i ig on and th e Su l of owns al h ou h not co ti , pp y t , t g n ) duc ed wi h much s ill are reall s ur f t t k , y pris1ng rom the r ex ens enes s consider n th e n i t iv , i g sca ty popul a

on: In man l aces th e w a er is con ti y p , t ducted for m l es al on the s des of reci ous a d i ~ i , g i p pit n ar d moun ains its ch annel fre uen l cut in th e s oli ro t , q t y d ck, for th e ur os e of fer iliz n a s 1n l e l an a on p p t i g g p t ti , and cons e uen l at th e ex ens e of it ro q t y p s p prietor. But hese s u e ndous w or s cease to as on s h t t p k t i , w hen th e enormous rev enue s of the pl antations are

considered .

“ T h e ill a e consis s of th e mans on- h ous e at v g t i , resen occu i d b the o ers eer and the h u s p t p e y v , t of th e sl a es w h o are al mos all fe mal es th e men v , t ; ,

robabl h a n o e d the arm . al so con a ns p y, vi g j i n y It t i a lar e ch urch but h as no residen r es the s er g , t p i t ; vice being occasionally performed hy one from a nei ghbouring tow n.

- O n our arri al w e erce e d it w as a h ol d a . v , p iv y y T sl a mi ure of th e Afr can and ndian h e ves, a xt i I ra es call ed Z a bos w ere oll ec ed before the c , m , c t ’ o he w ere nea l d res s ed ex c overseer s h use . T y t y actly in th e s ame manner ; for th ere is no variation

’ in the cos u e of sl a es or s er an s . ach ind t m v , v t E i v dual recel ved h er s traw h at full of cacao or ch o i / col a e nu a d re ired to h er res ec e l od e . t ts, n t p tiv g T he wh ol e w as conducted with th e mos t s ober l n or i lin as mi h propriety ; there w as nota ki g g gg g, g t h ave been expected from an as semblage of women OT S on C OLO N E MBIA .

Th dia of this class . e In n temperament appeared to na e s w as e den from h eir l ac d cas predomi t , a vi t t p i t t f countenance . and ac urn he rou of abou o , t it ity . T g p fifty or si xty evide ntly consis ted of three genera uld a dmo h ers tions ; you co gr n t , wh ose l ocks were s th e more de cided forms of th e moth ers ; and th e daugh ters,by el e a ce of o o e e a a fam l their g n pr porti ns . Th r w s i y e es s ob e ab h e ere all l ik n s rv l e in th em all . T y w t , well formed raceful in h e r o e e s unfe er , g t i mv m nt , tt e d by dres s ; and if it h ad not been for the l abour ell ed to u der o s ome oul a e they w ere comp n g , w d h v ' i e odel s f h l aflorded exqu sit m or t e s cu ptor. o define th e anmal ma h as l on beeh ‘ a di T i n, g ffi

cul ty w ith phil osoph ers . Th eir definitions h ave bee n as v arious as uns atisfactory Th e bip es im ” l umis h el d its round ll D o enes l a ed off p g ti i ge p y “ h e e h a th e l au h a his rude j oke . T n w d g ing m mal ll th e confounded mon e er e uall al ti k y, p p t y g ’ l n our ibes rin ed at r e rou Bal aam s ani i g k , g n ou r r. o mal stepped in to d eprive us f another peculiarity . ” T h e l in an mal s u es ed b th e race of tra y g i , gg t y

vel l ers and a h os of o hers s ucceededu A nd now , t t , w e mus t fain put up with th e h omely French defi ” nition bi - mam ll s ome tw o- fi ted ammal s h all , ti s s uare o f re are ar the a er in a s cien fi q f, p p to gue m tt ti c

“ s et- to a But th e defi , nd drive us fromth e ring. ni

‘ on h a e at res en to do w h is h a en b ti I v p t it ; t t , giv y

" th e wil ers an fro ich h e endea oured to y P i , m wh v

' deduce h a the re nch w ere me n ar ex cell ence , t t F p , ” b ch arac er i ab e a al y t is ng themas soci l nim s .

194 OTE S on C O LO M A . , N BI ‘

contal nl ng only a few. ol d womenwh o had nothing to T S a m ad e . h e ards h been i n oss essmn of it l os . p p

" h ous es in the pl aza w ere still barricaded a nd h ad

e l I ts res en abandonmen w as ' bwin to th p ace . p t t g ' ’ l a n e n o the coun r fro t e l a e of Mora es dva c i t t y, m h k

- raca bo near th e h ead bf wh ch w e now w ere . Ma i , i T he Al cal de nformed us h a th e enem w ere iri i ( , t t y

“ osses s i on of La G1 i a our next s a e and s how p t , t g , e d us his orde1 s to prevent any communication i h a i h us w e w ere de ained in h s wt th t c ty . T t t i nl s erabl e half ru n d nd an Vi ll a e under th e con i , i e I i g , \ ' n re h ension of an attack an ex er encin s ta t app , d p i g

th e rea es d ifficul to ob ain Sl ns for our. g t t ty, t prOVI o

T o add to our embarr ssmen he Al calde w as a t, t

“ W e re r d unabl e to furnis h fres h mul e s . u e s ix q i ,

' fl neces s ar for ours el ves ba a e and s er ants . y , gg g , v

indin w e coul d not et a i rel a we de ermined F g g y, t

ur of th e e / e occul ed a nd e in readi co t h ous w p , k pt

rs ons l n our s i ua ion we mi h h a e made a pe t t , g t v e d a es the ofliéer and is B n erl n resrs tance . B ides h

e ach men w e h ad th e C ar b o er ean two s er. d t t, a ob s g t,

‘ an s th e t o old an t o e nes all furni sh v t , w d w new p o ; d wi h arms of n de r n orano h er and s h u e t o e sc iptio t , t

u m a s ron h c Wall ed ( h ous e and encl os ed p t g, t i k , ,

- a t. n ur rd . ou of th e ues o co t y But as this was q ti , A LA O RE B I D S .

exce l n s elf- defence we rel ed for sa pt , i fety on th e flee ness of ou mul e t r s . Th e country in the nei ghbourh ood of this pl ace is no ed for th e excell ence of its toblacco t . W e s aw s ome cul i a ed 1n s mall a ches ’ , t v t p t , m and near th e

; ‘ v ll a h s i ge . T i articl e is th e only one of the numer ous ro al mono olies co in ed y p , nt u by the res ent o l p g vernment; but it is to be h oped merely as a tempo ral ex ed e n an not a y p i t, d s a permanent financi al

”

1 e source . Under the former o ern e g v m nt, l ands

' w ere allotte d l n th e mos t fa vourabl e dis tricts for its cul a ion to h os e wh o made a lica Th e tiv t , t pp tion. ’ wh ol e xof the crop w as deposited in the king s s tore h ouses and a d for b a ublicoffi cer at a cer am , , p i y p , t \ ra e a ccord n t its ual t i g o q ity .

— ' T he exigencies of th e C ol ombians th e fact of

‘ here be1n nu erous ublic s oreh ouses and a t g m p t , l cl ass of pers ons educated for this branch of admi

' nistration d s r bu ed hrou h ou the c un r — the , i t i t t g t o t y — existence of th e sys tem and the acquiescence of

' e l e acc d to o e of eri in a th peop , ustome this m d d v g — revenue furnl sh an excuse to th e republicans for

its continuance . But s urel th e l es s ons of ex e ‘ y p ‘ rience will not be l ong disregarded by th e pres ent

no r nc l e is f iore enlightened rul ers . Perh aps p i ip n a ish d h a a e r branch of dus fi rmlye st bl e , t n th t ve y in hr b and ul m el mos effec uall try t ives est, ti at y t t y benefi s t o ernme n b firs adm n s eri to t he g v t, y t i i t ng ’ t e e se n for of th e c izen for wh ose w el h a a d com t it ,

fare th o e nmen is ns u ed wh en l eft unre = e g v r t i tit t , tr r se s icted to individual enterp i . NOT E S O N C O LO MBIA .

'

‘ rohib on b the mo h er coun r wh ch Thej p iti y t t y, i

‘ rendered it criminal for any person in S panish e l ca to cul a e the vme or ol e exce for A m r tiv t iv , pt

abl e use l es it s h ould i n ure the rade of S a n t , t j t p i in hose co mod es d ffers not 11 es s ence from t m iti , i 1 u a be ex ec ed the monopoly now Ce ns red . It m y p t n h a h s l as remnan of ro al o ress on w ill the , t t t i t t y pp i ' ’ mo ed a nd ha e er c tizen en er n soon be re v ; t t v y i , t i g on th e full e n o me n of his r h s ma be er up j y t ig t , y p

mitted w i hou i currin the ' enal ties of crime to , t t n g p , ' - ecies of io o s o n l and e mpl oy th at s p cultivat n n hi w , ‘ w hich his intelligence points out as most conducw e to his intere s t! g ‘ nd o is al so cul a ed h ere The l an as I ig tiv t . p t, I om t a n T e aw it fr he ro d is ot unl e th e o a o. h s , ik p t t cro is cut in hree menths and the d e roduc ed p, t , y p ’ er t i e by f mentation. I s then dri d and packed iu ns in uan es conv ment or ra s r n b ski , q titi e f t n po tatio y — ‘ mul e s the s eroons of commerce .

f er be n de aine o e da w e ere all o A t i g t d n y, w wed

to proceed .

J nuar M . A a 4 ih . ef a l adores atn ne A . r y L t B i i , l iv ed at h alf pas t el even at a tow n of th e s ame name

s even miles . H ere we were provided with refres h

“ men s b th e ci il au hor ies and succeeded in t y , v t it , changing s ome of our ‘ mul es f This tow n is i nha bite d by C reol es, and contal ns many h ouses cover ed w h l e it ti s .

eft ail adores ro er at h ree . M. n end L B p p , t , P , i t t t t ing o put up at the l as t hous e on h e .hi her s ide of a moun a n w e s on the W t i w ere to cro s morrow. e ’ t to at fo r — go it u o cl ock six miles .

‘ 1 8 O TE S O N co oium 9 N L A .

' d arr1ved at La Gr a— s e en een ml l es an it v t , at h alf

two . M . ass 1n h rou h the pas t , P p g t g desert of ” wild briars . ri a cal led ac is a La G t , ity, town of the third cl as s in his coun r as l ar e as Wilmi n on De t t y, g gt ,

“ are h ou h bu l in a ore c m W e l aw , t g i t m o pact form. found it nearly des erted ; th e advance of th e S pa e n abou a l ea ue s " Juez = niards b i g t g di tant . T he dfiitico who as s ned us our uar ers a ar d to p , ig q t , ppe e \ re a t be in the greates t t pid tion. W hil e s peaking o s e h e o ld s ar s at e er n01 w u and lis en. He u , v y , t t t d u hl s mul es w ere e cons an l s addl ed and tol s k pt t t y , l e l n th e moun a ns e ver h that h e s pt t i y night . T is

[ s e a rehensmn we w ere ol d as exces iv pp , t , w pro

’ duced by the ol rcums tance of his h avi ng been a 1

' sh or time before in the hands of his enem es who t , i , exac ed half is for une for his rans ha d t h t om. It al so s al d a h e h ad esca ed on he se er s w as th t p t t m ,

a our h rou h the n eres of his bro he - as fav , t g i t t t r in an offi cer of t e ro al arm l aw, h y y A fter h aving been perpetually h aunted by Mo ral es s ince l ea n ux ll o w e w ere now actuall , vi g Tr i , y d a e oet he ow as ed b at the a v nc d p s . T t n w occupi y th e garrison only ; patrol es paraded th e s treets all

nl h t and 111 the orni n th e h ouse s w ere search ~ g , m g e d b a uard l es th e e nem s hould h a e been y ; g , t y v

n roduced u n th e n 1 i t d ri g ight .

‘ T he c mman n ofi cer nel Gomes a mu o di g ,C ol o ,

l a o brou h h t a us a is . Af er tt , g t is oflicers o p y, v it t

‘ resen in th j d du l b name h e as ed p t g em n ivi al y, y , k ur o l mon a he were ood o p s to th eir beauty . T y g '

LA R TA . 1 G I 99 ,

l oo n is rue t ol o l seemed t a ki g it t , bu the C ne o ttach

’ rather an undue Importance to gmadventitious ad an a e not al o e h er indis ensabl e 111 a s ol i er v t g t g t p d . He made a dis l a of h is n li h b ountin p y E g s , y c g on h is fin rs as far as five and as ured us o ge , s f his in tention to attack th e e ne my nex t morning at day: brea w h ch informa ion made me uit m h k, i t q y am m oc at a er ea1 l h r h i h re k v y y ou , t at I mg t be p s ent as an a mateur but he d d not ee his romi ; i k p p s e. ‘ Ou face ious friend the C ol onel furn s h ed s r t , , i u with

' an escor commanded b a C a a n and e o t, y pt i , w t ok a c rcui ous moun ain a h to a o d th e S an ards i t t p t v i p i , ' who h ad interrupte d the main noute

Januar 6th . ef La Gri a at A . M y L t t . ao

‘ com an e d b an escor and a in a b - road ar p i y t, t k g y , — r ed at th e os - h ouse E l C obre e h ee n mi es iv p t ig t l ,

~ a mis erabl e h ut e a is a . M . h s i s bl h e at s, P T i s , t d o th e con e n ence of the me wh o carr the m il f r v i n y a , f as . a sto n l ace re ious to cros sm th e ara ppi g p , p v g p o consis ed of but ne room in es ed w m : It t o , f t ith “ ermin a n not l ar e e nou to con ain th ar v , d g gh t e p ty . W e ex perienced much difficul ty in p1 ocuring pro sions and as no fora e was to be h ad the mules vi , g , a ea w ere turned l oose upon the b rren h th.

M. crosse Goh r at . d J uar th . ef El an y 7 L t e, 9, A h ara o call ed bador and al rived at the t e p m Lom , — M. hous e w en mil es at 3 . firs t t ty , , P

' O n thetop of th e mountain w e enj oyed an exten si e d re r os ec but were considerabl incom v , a y pr p t, y In descendin w e met the moded by the wi nd . g advance guard of the troops coml ng from Gaudi na

marca to ch eck Moral es . S O N CO NOTE LO MBI A »

arr ed at La Gr a— s e en een m l es and iv it v t i , at h alf

3 - “ two 1 . M. ass m h rou h the de pas t , p g t g s ert of ” wild bri ars . La Gr a called a c is a o it , ity, town f the third cl ass in his coun r as l ar e as W lmin on De e t t y, g i gt , aw are h ou h bu l in a ore c m a W e l , t g i t m o p ct form. found it nearly des erted ; th e advance of the S pa niards be1ng about a l eague dis tant) T he Juez alitico wh o as si ned ns our uar ers a eared to p , g q t , pp ‘ e b e 1n the greates t tr pidation. W hil e s peakl ng to s e h e wo ld s art us at e e no u and lis en. He , v ry i , t t d us his mul es w ere e cons an l s addl ed and tol k pt t t y , sl e 1n th e moun a ns e er n h h th at h e pt t i v y ig t . T is ss e a re hensmn we w er old as exce iv pp , e t , w pro

' duced by the c1rcums tance of his h avi ng been a sh or time before in th e hands of his enem es who t t i , d exac ed half h is for une for h 1s rans h a t t om. It as al so s aid th a h e h ad esca ed on h ese er s w t p t t m , as a favour, th rough the i nteres t of his broth er- in anofficer of the ro al arm l aw , y y A fter h aving been perpetually h aunted by Mo ral es s nce l eavm rux ll o w e w ere now ac uall , i g T i , t y d a e os he ow a e b a t the a v nc d p ts . T t n w s occupi d y th e garris on only patrol es paraded th e s treets all l h t and m the or t e s n g , m ni ng h e h ouses w er earch ed b a uard l es t th e ene m s houl d h a e been y , g , \ y v n roduced ur n the n h i t d i g ig t . T he command n offi e el Gomes a d i g c r, C olon , m o a f l a brou h his ofii el s to a us s . A er tt , ga, t c p y vi it t

resen in th 1 i d d l b name h e as ed p t g em n ivi ual y, y , k

r O nio a ' he ere ood ou pi n s to th eir beauty . T y w g

5 E oN C O LO M 5200 NOT S BI A .

" t to m a d o ve il es at noon. h s n g , , T i a e 1s an ex ens e all e vill g , t iv v y 4 O n th e r o d h s da w e e nco n e d a l on a t i y, u t re g,

“ s ra l in col umn o infa n r a nd ca al r com t gg g f t y v y,

oo s had h al ed fires ( w e e dl ed a es s es tr p t , r ki n , nd m a o h o e v l preparl ng l ng t e side f th road . This li ey

‘ scene w as mar e d b h a cheerful al acr and k y t t ity . h a ab n ance of frui ful ex e die n s h arac er t t u d t p t, o c t

’ r h s h e l oo istic of th e s oldie and i life. T men ked is erabl on accoun of th e w n of uniformi in m y, t a t ty their ress ma n in recrui s and h e r l n a d , y be g t , t i o g nd a id march here w ere s ome bo s scarcel fif een r p . T y , y t

W : e ars ol d mos l bl ac s . e found t e Gener l y , t y k h a u th cen reof th e col umn on h ors eba abo t e t , ck , s ur

n 1 d th new s o Moral es e men. He 1 u 1 e e a q f , g v th a o f th e ca al and in ed us to al a e of i t pit , vit p t k h s ru al brea fas rovuzled at a s mall but on th f g k t, p e road s de but w excus ed ours el es nd urs i , e v , a p ued o r r u oute . T hes e troops were enti rely unencumbered with

' ba a e unl es s w e exc a number of w omen gg g ; ept ,

' wh o bro h u th e rear on fo or moun ed in ug t p , ot, t ed h o e e er ar e of wa . h e a ear w er v y v i ty y T y pp , v ,

’ to be no embarras s ent to th e ol umn. O ne A ma m , c

h a t r h us band ho a zon d yielded h er burro o he , w w s s c and w as u b his s de carr n his i k, tr dgi ng y i , yi g na s ac bel s a d u e k p k, t , n m sk t, A T RIBA .

— hrou h S a - Cr s o al four m l es to C a ach t g n i t v i , p o, — ’ s ixteen making twe nty m il es for this day s j our ne Th l s s a mis era bl e ill a e y . i v g ,

Ja nuar l oth . Af er l ea in C a acho crossed y t v g p , s ome very el e vated bill s ; from the s ummit . of the l as w e h ad a re mar abl ex en e t, k y t siv view of a fine vall e s urrounded b mounta n embracin S a y, y i s, g n

A n onio and S an- Ros ar o de C ucu a ei h een t i t , g t les fr e mi om our l as t s tage . Thes are th e border tow ns of . enezuel a and C u i a c V nd n mar a. W hen firs s een from the h ei hts the s u es e t g h y gg t d the ’ dea of two h arrow s l in in a field no h n be i y g ; t i g , ing discernibl e at this dis tance but the rectangul ar d rec of t e n ea h o h i tion h streets, crossi g c t er like

b ars .

T he o ns are abou two m l es a ar s e ara t w t i p t, p ted

‘ b th e ri er or ra h er cree a hira the boundar y v , t k, T c , y of t e ar e s f th res en o rnmen an wo d p tm nt o e p t g ve t, d the division l ne between th e l ate Vice- royalty of [ i N ew Granada and th e Captain- general s hip of C a a ared in o n of size ra a . h e be co c s T y m y mp , p i t ,

‘

h bu l in a s uare. an for enn. ou to Fr k d, P th g i t q

- osar o th e residence of the firs con ress i S an R i , t g , s n a ns an ele an lar e by far the fines t town ; it co t i g t, g s tone ch urch . Previously to cross ing the divis ion line a nd en n th om as it is s ll call ed w e w ere teri g e kingd , ( ti , ) f n our sil er as th e co n of V e care ul to excha ge v , , i a nezuela is not current i n Cundi nam rca . W e h ad no s ooner pass ed the small s tream th an ’ he co tras w e found we were in a new country . T n t 26 ' OTE S ON C O LOM N BIA .

’ ' a ked b all ra ellers on s e n - a w em r y t v , t ppi g cross the e wh ch se a a es S a n f om or u al ca o cre k i p r t p i r P t g , nn t be more dec ded h an ha o ser able i n wad n i , t t t b v , i g

s carce through the l ess known Ta u» ' chira . fierence IS attributabl e to the eal ous ol c o he S an sh e All j p i y f t p i governm nt . commerce was 1nterdicted between the Vice royal of A mer ca i o der to f o a h the ties i , n r av ur th t wit mothel country ; and the peopl e of the separate g0 ~ ' vernments “for ofignorance,as to the er ex s ence of e 1 h a b hus n v y i t , t t y t dividi g e he mi h be more read l e s ub e th m, t y g t i y k pt m j e W e now find b er hous es a more m ro ed tion. ett , i p v

ul a on more ndusr and a r arch al siml ~ c tiv ti , i t y, p t i p i of manners l ess ce and mmo al a city , vi i r ity, and x of ffere races T e m s l ess mi ture di nt . h a s of th e o ul a on s om ose of nd ans remar p p ti i c p d I i , kabl e for '

' ‘ « i r bus t f rms an th mildness f h » the 1 o o , d e o t eirdispo

s itions .

N othing can be more dissimilar than these In» ans and hose h o ro e n our fores s e di , t w v i t ; th y are h h i b as unlike as th e climates m w ich t ey l ve. T e s hor h c s s a ure and brawn limbs of one t, t i k e t tt , y , are o pposed to the s tately form and delicate propor l a in r e ons of the o h er . ead of unconc d ti t Ins t i i t g p i , h a h a s a e l fe a d t e ttac ment to n 1ndepentl ent av g i , n th e s tern virtues of the fores t ; you h ere meet with en l enes s of d s os bs e u ousnes s a fund g t i p ition, o q i ,

es s for s o et and er vir ues of th e e ce . n cl y, the mild t p a

OTE S O N C OLOM 204: N BIA .

h ourne to rambl e abou th e coun r s ort j y, t t y in search of no el i s and en o if could encoun er a s re v t e , j y, I t t am, the l uxury Of a bath

O ne ni h dur1n our s a r. an E g t g t y, D ng l s hman and a C reol e C ol onel w ere ar red l n i , , qu te th e same h ouse with us ; they w ere on their w ay G ra rda o from o a to o n ene l U ne a. Th e d c B og t , j i t tor w as s n l arl e u ed w h a l a e owder i gu y q ipp , it rg p h ornsl un a s s his s h oulders wh c s ee e g cro , i h m d to e us da e to a non c mba a s b a el es s appen g o t nt . A

' s oon as h e dis moun ed h ow e er h é n i ed t t , v , i v t us o ri and e erce ed h a his h orn was fil d nk, w p iv t t led

' in to char e himself ins ead Of his istol s with g , g t p ; O n th e i 3th a ba al on Of a ut s , tt i bo even h undred n as s hr h t e A t n h e me p ed t oug h town. ig t w were ’ ” aw akened b an al arm of “ th e enem is coml n y y g, s h outed through th e s treets by s ome h ors emen at

ull s ee — but as w e were non- comba an s it was f p d t t , I concer f o r ce \ so far as to th no n O u s, ex pt related e ’ e ra f t f fica r pa tion o he king s orti tions . — — — — LEAVE CUC TA A C E A A M LO A C T A R » , U H I ND P P N HI AG E — — — LIGfOUS PROCE SSION CAPITA NE Jo SUA TA SUSA CO N

’‘ SA TA - RO A — FA A — T JA — A RR V L A T BO N S YF UN I A GO TA .

J u r 1 e were unabl e to ea an a y 4 th . W l ve Ros ario de C ucu a ill th e af ernoon f his da h t , t t o t y, w en we t proceeded ten mil es o a h acienda. Here w e were rea ed ra her ca al erl bein old to sl t t t v i y, g t i ng our T e h ammocks l n the corridor. h overs eer 1 efused

to s ell any provisions or forage . He call ed, th e s er ean who had been sen to him a s erva g t, t , nt, which indignity the s oldier very properly res ented ; h e as ort ut on the man of 1 showed his p sp , p mportance, talked Of his being directed by the government to u ar hrou h the coun r nd cond ct the p ty t g t y, a hinted th at his s uper1ors s h ould be made acquainted With

’ is conduc h s w h a li l e more bl us erin r h t ; t i , it tt t g, p o ’ fl the ies t e ect. T h e o ers eer h duced h app fi v , w o farm

’ ed th e h ac enda on account Of the o ernmen s i g v t, aid \ h e h ad been m s a en in his ues s was er sorr i t k g t , v y, y, a ‘ an excu s o ened his be s roo and fter m y se , p t m and provided s upper and breakfast .

Jan 5th . ro t e h acienda w e ro ee uary 1 F m h , p c ded twent s t o m l es to a es - h ouse . ' In h e e eni y w i , p t t v ng Peter was mis sing but the next mornl ng made his

a earance . He h ad been drun h ad fall e wi h pp k, n , t his mul e and n ured s o much as to render u , i j it it n fit fo e s n sh bein r present use . H wa pu i ed by g N O TE S O N CO LOMBI A

made to wal off his debauch . ere al s k H , o, one Of

{ e rba a e mules n out our ul de th h gg g givi g , g , e ser

ean ress ed one to su l its l ace . h s h e g t, p , pp y p T i h ad been obl ed to do on Oh er occas ons T O 1 e ig t i . g v an dea of the oneas sumed b the l ar i t y mi it y, this sergeant would occasionally talk in th e h arsh est manne r to the Alcal des of th e s maller ll a es 1v vi g , g in his orders i nthe mos erem or manner a g t p pt y , nd r a n n in his m li r l an ua e t th e te i g, i ta y g g , o report th em erl ors if h e h esi a e b u d o e . to their s p , t y t t t O y A nd t oad is un form Of he r d ers is ra on h e r , h i t g ena i , h ca l a ce command ed th e mos ab ec bi ne and n , t j t rever l om the assen ers Of the cl ass Of u ences f p g c ltivators, u his de n n to re l to he r cou e e witho t ig i g p y t i rt sy, x a carel ess nod or s ome s ec me f u cept by , p i n O g ard a e e s T e room wit t th ir xpen e . h ass umption Of wer Of h s to us n al uable man was no doub po t i , , i v , t d b the cus om the coun r and t w arrante y t of t y, i s exertion was absol utely necessary to enabl e us to t h a a ol e coun r prosecute our j ourney . Bu t t wh t y s h oul d be put under requisition to forward the views Of persons travelling under the circumstances w e and s ub ec to th e el b1 ef a hor Of w e er , j t v y i ut ity ean Of re adiers s ea s er l l e fer th e a s erg t g n , p k v y itt ‘ Bu uc ab s es ar er freedom Of the peopl e . t s h u e, p a s nse arablefrom a s a e of war m a coun r h p , i p t t , t y am onl as on sh ed at occupied by th e enemy . I y t i th e quiet s ubmi s sl on with which these burthens are

- Januar 6 eft t e os house at A . M . y 1 th . L h p t 7,

m passed through the . ml serabl e vill age of Chopo

TE ON C L 208 N O S O OMBI A .

The l ad es Of the cus om- h ouse both oun and i t ,\ y g

' -n l d w ere 1n essant s mo ers . h s cus omis . O , c k T i t pre

I al ent hrou hou t e Wh ol e oun r exce tin the v t g t h c t y, p s oc e f a a Ow n to first i ty o C racas nd Val encia. i g educa on e u effort t a a l ad ha ti , it r q ires an , o p y y t t attention and res pect which her s tation in s ociety n ch ara er des wh le s e i d l 1n m a a d ct erve, i h 1s n u g g practice which w e are accustomed to associate with

' » d Ja ar 20th . ef am lo a at noon s o e nu y L t P p n , t pp

' for t e n h one l a ue be ond C aco a a small h ig t e g y t , , a h d lla e— four een il s 1 th tc e vi g t m e . r O u1 h al Janua y 2 13 t. ting pl ace tod ay was atthe h a ch ed ll a e Ch a a o er a ra — fift n t t vi g it g , v pa mo ee l es wh ere we arr ed at o e fo nd th mi , iv n on. W u e eo l e en a ed in rel ous ceremon es in h onour p p g g igi i ,

' ‘ l

. e S a n the a ness O he ill of th ro t v a e. Her i t, p t f g

' s ai nts hip w as carried al ound th e square on a pl at ~ o receded b mus c ans an roc e hrowers f i m, p y i i d k t t , d b e T h e and followe y th e Padre and th vill agers .

‘ crowd k nel t devoutly as sh e pas s ed : after making O r l t of the laza s h was recond uc ed to h er th e l cu p , e t hrone i th e ‘ church and was obl ed o s rrender t n , ig t u e e el s an finer l en h erfor th e oc a part of th j w d y, t cas1on Th af ernoon w as s en in th e na ional . e t p t t t h l e d manly amusement of th e bull figh . W i azin on h s s ec acl e m a en ion w as a rac g g t i p t , y tt t tt t ’ an .wh o from his ed by a scuffle between an Old m , antique dres s a eared to bel ong to another age , pp , moun ed on a fine and coun r a . a o n s ar t y, nd y u g p k, t ho h a i ul arl d s n u sh ed h mse f h orse, w ad p rt c y i ti g i i l ’ C HITA GA . 209

i n the s or s of the da . T h e ol d en l eman w h p t y g t , , it a our did not s u ose him ca abl e of exer in vig I pp p t g, h eld the s r ed h orse foa mi n l fuo pi it , g m his viol ent exerc se b the bridl e hil e t e i , y ; w h call ant endea

‘ voured .to d s en a e hims elf b s urrin his s teed i g g y p g . I was not a little s urprised to find mys elf appeal ed ' to b th e a riarch w h th e deman to y p t , it d l end my au hori for th e reco er of his h O e n t ty v y orse . n r ferri g h im to the A l cal de as the ro er ers o ai » p p p n, h e s d that his hors e h ad been procured under th e pretence of th e ubl c er ce for the co p i s vi , nvenience Of an

merced m race b ut o coml n to th e i l a e . , ( y g ; ) n g v l g h e found h a he w ere ll n his h ors e t t t y ki i g , in run n n af er bull s T h e caball ero find himself de i g t . i ng te ted .dism t and re urned th e o e nl ma c , oun ed t n bl a l t o its venerable owner. In the e en n th e adre wh o had s hown him v i g P , s el f a f eman in the s s a us a earl es s hors port , p id /

s t w s o e of hi friends “ He w as a oun vi i , ith m s y g and very h andsome man ; his compl exion w as s o er a c ed e as rou ed his v y brilli nt th at I s uspe t h w g , s h r t r m d ‘ e in sh or as rea a co i t im e with l ac ; t, g t x co b as er n rofes s on not ex m I ev met with in a y p i , ce t a mon o h er m er nences p ing the milit ry . A g t i p ti ,

' ‘ ’ his fello to ive an dea Of ' his ac u re men s as t w, g i q i t

' a lin uis t turned to a s er an Who had us en ered g , , v t j t t th e room and a dres se to hl m in n l s h an , d d , E g i , ’ a tence don outrageously profane and vulg r s en . I t know wh eth er th e fool understood preci sely the im r of a but h e s eemed ' to h n po t wh t he uttered, t i k it

e, OTE S ON C O LO MB 210 N I A .

6

- L h n vas tl cl e er it was , erh a s somet i g y v , p p , a mere I f im a io act O it t n.

Ja nuar 22d. Lef Ch a a at A . a rr d y t it g , 7, . M ive — mil es at In at C er e o en s e en 4 . . r t tw ty v , , P M s ome w et l aces the road b th e con inual read of p , , y t t th e ul 1 ame s o is cros s d b 1 id es m es l n the s p t, e y g , all e b r os h es e cuneiform d ch es runni n ” c d ar . T it , g at l i h an l es to th e road ex end for m l es h e g t g , t i ; t y re o l ll ed h w a er and are abou two fee a m st y fi wit t , t t m h e r de h th e mul e 1s onl abl e to dee . ro p F t i pt , y , fro th e bo om Of one toth e to of the nex s tep m tt , p t r d e h en hrowin its w ei h on the advanced i g , t t g g t l e it slide to th e bo om Of the s econd at ac g, s tt ; e h l un e th rowm th e mud and a r o p g , g w te ver the ’ ' s e d 1 - imbl e mul e wll so e a rider h a . A n m me l i ti s w k,

’ for s ome the an ul ar rid es s e i n g g , t pp g

‘ e 1 from one to he with much r c1s on t o h er. But as . p t , t e cl a is er sli er th e an mal can l a h y v y pp y, i not a w ys s ain s elf u on th e bars but ll l s u t it p , wi p unge occa sionally to the bpttom Of th e ditch ; th e effort which oll ows to re l n a foo n 1s er u f ga ti g, v y apt to dismo nt h e the rider. T wo or t re of our party w ere thrown n o th e mud th e ounder n e mul s . i t , by fl i g of the Oerreto is a ol erabl lar e th atched vill a e t y g , . g ,

' b il ' h i u t on 1rregul ar ground . W e w ere caug t n the ain a w ame in si h o h A l cal w a r s e c f it. T e de s g t . — er a f r l h l s ho d a v en e and u s e mu e w u el . y tt tiv , n d it t y T he h a e r s b u o a mound h av t tch d ch u ch 1 uil t p n , mg a flight of Very numerous s teps l eading to the door

‘

Januar e o at 10 M. arr ved 23d ft e r . y . Le C r t , A i

“ O TE S ON C O LOMB 2 12 N I A .

But the greates t comfort was the gl azed windows

- a o t we h d n w entered he tierra j ria . This h ouse as of two s or es and mos of os o w t i , t th e surr unding the l aza w ere of the s ame h e h p ig t . B ein s o comfor abl s ua ed e res ed one da g t y it t , w t y,

' ‘ which w e devoted to the improvement of our per

s onal a earance . M bus h h ead f ha l uns ha ed pp y y o i , v ' eard and face from al er a e ex ure to s un b , , t n t pos , ram and th e cu in w nds Of th aramos as re , tt g i e p , d ’ “ ' m as scar e res e ed a fr h ful a eara ce . c n l t, p nt ig t pp n I o s 1dered it fortuna te th at I h ad not been indulged with its reflection for a Week pas t W e linstitnted al s ear f i s a gener ch or n g uas . I found th ree nest 1n m el bow i w ound a r ce e in h a y , n a I h d e iv d t t art b a fall on th br c oo from m h ammock p , y e i k fl r y at Bar uis emeto an co d ot t reas on q , d ul n conceive h e

w ould not h eal . O ur fac o um th e s er ean s uc it t t , g t, , ceeded in e xtracting‘ th em T h e s ack s c ontaining the n s w ere each as r e as a a e were it , l a g pe ; th y i com l e el extir ated b fill n th e holes w h hot , p t y p y i g , it

ash es a d the ounds s or l af er h eal e . , n w h t y t d ’ h s h a h i ne s l i in e ro « T i tc ing i ns ects n o v g fl s h, p duces a fe el n of h o or tha ma rea dil e con i g rr , t y y b

ceived . A s no a en on to cl ea l s can sh el d tt ti , n l nes i ou from the a ac s f h s e a n l s is neces y tt k o t e ima , it s ar to ee a cons an w a c o a d h a e he m y k p t t t h f r, n v t ex rac ed b a s ilful h and h o ru ur n the t t y k , w it ut pt i g s ac s con a n n the anl mal a O herw se h are k , t i i g ; s t i t ey

' re roduc d If s uffere a a ermane n l od e p e . d to g t p t g men the mos d s us i eform con ra ons t, t i g t ng d ity, t cti f f th e us l es incurab e ulcers and a o al as n o m c , l , t t w ti g

h sof a b . of t e t p rts, inevita ly ensue S UA T A .

Havi ng occasionally met with much difficulty l n

’ ob a n n ro is ons direc e Manuel t i i g p v i , I t d to procure a s u l of dr ed beef to carr wi h u e s . H pp y i , y t pur chased a iece abou four fee t s uare an p t q , d an i nch h c dis s ec ed from the r bs o the a O f ni , t i k, t i mal . u l oadin the mul es a hide was in ar g , v i ably pl aced o er the run s to rotec hem f om t e ra n M v t k , p t t r h i . y ’ “

, s ur ris e was exc ed at s ei p it , e ng our dried beef

' s trapped on over th e hide ; and on my remonstrating a a ns s uch a ex os re to the su n rain nd dus g i t n p u , , a t, w as made to com rehend h at the ea w ould p , t , m t il nl e ex os e t s o u ss d to h e n. A l hou h ur p , p s u t g o . robe Of beef was not er in i in to t e e v y v t g he ye, w re moved th at O bj ection by diminis hi ng it a r ue ’ ’ d oezl .

S a at h alf as s e en nuar 2 th . ef ua ar Ja y 7 L t t p t v , — e a tS s a ine m l e ath al f as ten A . M riv d u con n i s, p t , t h s l ace the ch urch bell s w ere run and the A , t i p g, ’ b a e O t o ee us w h the Alcaldes at i nha it nts cam u t m t , it e he d e w ere conduc ed to a h use and s er th ir a . W t o , ve at brea fas con ed by the Alcal de and his wife k t, ' ‘ s n Of a varl e of dulces mea chees e bre ad si ti g ty , t, ,

‘ r Th e l a er e found a er rea ra~ and butte . tt w v y g t ri not avm et w h an s nce l eavm the ty, h g m it y i g

os i abl e roof Of Mr Pefi al ve1 at V alenma . T he h p t . , ’ Al calde s l ady deal t it out i n equal proportions with the bread ; it proved excell ent with the addition of

’ u T he usual mode Of making butter in this. co n ‘ ‘ Ho h ese tr is b s a h e cream in a bot l e . w y, , y h king t t t or n a able and much bused eo le woul d ign a t, mi , a p p , TE S O N C O LO MB NO I A .

if ol d h a in a dis r c of coun r in th a e s tare, t , t t t i t t y e s t t

" ” r not l ar er h an one ' of t i O of Ne w Y o k, g t he r ver

‘ " wn es a es more ba er is ch urned b do s in a gro t t , tt y g

"

h a s ons ume e , e n 1 c b h m m a ear . Y et w ek, t d y t y this s tatement I believe to be s ubstantially true w1th o a e o re ard t Or ng c unty . g _ ’ S s ac n t t e s a A ~ W e l eft u o a 1 O clock h me day . r

' - — at S a ba s wel e m l es at 5 . ere r1ved ti t v i , , P M. H w e were met by th e pr1n01pal i nh abitants on h orse:

c .h aded b the car abou a l e and a h alf ba k, e y vi , t mi from the town ; and w ere greeted on entering th e aza b th e vir us Of th e as s embl ed ll a 1 s w h pl , y vi ge , it m l men s to th e s s er R e bl c of the or h co p i t i t pu i N t . ’ d m un n at th e ood eccl es as On is o ti g g i tics h ouse, wefound he h ad ex ec ed us th e da before a ta p t y ; , e ora ed h do ers an Co e i h a bl e d c t wit w , d v red w t o h e cl o h was l oaded wi h dul ces as r s n w w it t , t , p t y, ’ ue the v car s f i d m s and l urs . A few f r en s mu , iq o i

s at down w th us and ran a r o c oas s . In the i ,d k p t i ti t t evenl ng a spl endid dinner w as served, and next O ur h os oo a morning an excellent breakfas t . t t k s ea at th e able but ec ne ea n at firs ha n t t , d li d ti g t, vi g i ntended to cel ebrate mass that morni ng ; but at

' l en h in com limen to his ues s h e at- oo Of gt , p t g t , , p t k

‘ the meal,and thus rendered himself i ncompetent to» ofii iate h e da m t t s s a isfac on no c for t y ; uch o h e di t ti , ’ doub of some t o Or hree ladies of the vil t, w t old l age. T he vicar made a displ ay Of a compass and dial s u ed to an l a ud ade in ondon a me it y tit e, m L , ti

i ece his a h s and . b o s a d a p , w tc , some map o k , n ,

TE N. CoL M NO S O o e rA .

nsation for th e l oss of ersonal r l e s ~ pe p p ivi ge . I11 stances h ave not beenwanting of gi eat devotion to the caus e Of the count1y i n the pries ts ; some Of

' wh om have l ed th e armies Of th e republic . tO vic [ and seal ed the cause w their tory, ith bl ond . Preparations w ere making for a bull -fi ght in th e

- a b fenc n ih the a enues l ead n . e l az . v to p , y i g i g it W

‘ . h eard th at th e. Pres ident w as h ourly ex pected to arr e atB o o a and be des rous to wi nes s his iv g t , ing i t entr é we hurried on no w h s andin the res s n , , t it t g p i g n i a ions of Our n hos ts to w nes s i v t t ki d , it ‘ — and arr ved at a a w e n mil es at 5 . . i P yp t ty , , P M

thirty - two mil es . Pa a 1s a comfor abl e ill a e f m les yp t v g . A ew i f1 om th e own we w ere o er a en b a entl eman t , v t k y, g ,

“

o en ered n conversatl on. On arr n h wh t i to ivi g, e t th e h ous e Of the r es a conducted s o cano . n p i t, n O ur road companl on turned Out to' be P adre Ma

i ’ ' ’ accom anied us in our nex da s r de p t y i . ' 5 The good old canon seemed to live v ery comfortl abl h ad an e cell e t h ouse w as s urrounded b a y, x n , y am l of n eces and os ses sed a ol erabl l ar e f i y i , p t y g

“

librar h man O er ood h n s of h s l fe. y, wit y th g t i g t i i e re e a bl lod W w e w ell ent rt ined and comforta y ged .

3O n Wa n nex morn n at s u i s e Was s ome ki g t i g n r , I w hat s urprised at finding a fresh bouquet of flowers on m illow— l aced he e no doub b s ome y p p t r , t, y

l au hin bl ack e ed uard an an el . g g, y , g i g

M. A rr ed Januar 3 th ef a a at A . y 0 . L t P yp 9 , iv — at un a e n m l es at 3 . M. T j tw ty i , , P ’ ° ' ” un a 1s i n 5° 5 nor h la tude and 3 59 30 eas T j t ti , t ' N A TU J .

e fro Wash n on at an absol u e e ~ l ongit ud m i gt , t l eva o of 522 fee en o n a mean em era ti n 9 t, j yi g t p ture of

Fah r . his is a fine well buil own but does T , t t , not seem e r sh n o i on at re e to b 111 a flou i i g c nd ti p s nt . It con tains a l ar e church one or two con en s and t g , v t , he government s altpetre works . Near this pl ace it as h a och ca the rea l e isl a or of th e w t t B i , g t g t Muys cas the na on of nd ans com osin th e n m , ti I i p g ki gdo

Of undinamarca d s a eared af er remain ' O , i pp , t ing on for th e s ac of two h ous a d ears th e e arth p e t n y . W e h ad been accom anied to un b Mel endez p T j a y , and ell e man f the re ul ar o a very kind int ig nt , o g rder We ere comfor abl uar er d of Franciscans . w t y q t e in th e h ouse Of the s uperintendent of the government e r w or s es ablis h ed in h s own and er saltp t e k , t t i t , v y Rece ed s s in th e eve n fro w ell entertained . iv vi it nl g m s ome half a dozen smoking young l adies,who were ’ much amused by Mel endez s account Of our various

ec s w ch h e ro o in l e numera e d ou ' his s t , hi p v k g y t

fin ers to th e a o n Of w en or h r ment on~ g , m u t t ty t i ty ; i f the enerall now n and charac ing s ome o mos t g y k ,

l on . h terising th e m as s o many dis tinct re igi s . T e girl s w ere highly tickl ed at th e idea of the. pries ts Th zeal ou adre e came h avi ng wives . e good s P b h Padr es casados rath er warm in his ridicul e of t e , o l because h ad not a (married pries ts . ) It was n y I ead o d of S a h did not re ort r y c mman p ni s , that I t u o hi h e a e our ries s one w fe to re p n m, t at w g v p t i , move all excuse for their interfering with th ose of the whol e parish ' 1 NOTES O N CO LOM BI A .

‘ x morn n Mel end e oo e t e N e t i g, z t k m o see his con

en . found a y er l ar e s one uadran l e v t I it y g t q g , capabl e of l odging a h undred priests ; th ough the pres ent i nmates did not amount to more than twen

- co duc or firs ush ed me n l ty five . My n t t er i to a arge room a ro r a ed as a sch ool for th e ch ldr of , pp p i t i en th The wall s were de ora ed e tow n. c t with portraits Of o e d n ar es of h e ch ur h as e e s m ig it i t c , w ll as thos of the res den and ice - res den ofth e re ub c P i t V P i t p li , and covered w ith paintings of th e h eathen divini

e s . He des ired me to ut on m h at sa h ti p y , ying t es e

' e a s s e h en wen are only d ios s f l o . W t t over e very ar of th e as bu l din ass ed hrou h t e p t v t i g, p t g h organ l of contaim n s ea s for for or fif mus c ans t, g t . ty ty i i , as ended to the roof an belfr fr and c d y, om which w e

'

m h ad a fine view Of th e city . Th e ch apel and gall e

es w ere h un w h well execu ed c ures on re a ri g it t pi t , M fr en l ed me to his ll o li io s s ub ec s . d ce c n g n j t y i , s s n of a small bed room a si n - roo and i ti g , tti g m, h for boo s . Af er smo in a s e ar whic cl os et k t k g g , it s e S a s h custo /to Offer on en e a room i th p m m t ring , " Mel endez conducted me to th e apartme nts Of the

r nci al Of the con e Jose A n o o C ha 1s . p i p v nt, t ni v I

undf hi in a cabine fill ed wi h boo s ins r o fO m t, t k , t u

men s a n in s an o h er w or s Of art. was t , p i t g , d t k It m th e s ud of a eal h h l oso hic en l e an. t y w t y, p i p g t I was surprised to fi nd th e s uperior Of a convent a

- oun man abou wen ei h ears of a e . He y g , t t ty g t y g u i ed th e m s re os se s n coun enance m which n t o t p p s i g t , beamed th e mil des t' and th e mos t es timabl e Of the tl a a Chris n 1 t th e mos en n and . fasc V r ues, to t g gi g i

T E S 'O N C OL M sso N O O BIA .

' e a ers on wh o 1m res1sed e so favo rab o s en p p m u ly, n s o. s h ort an acquaintance

l e W e h a no en ered the all e i thirty mi s . d w t v y n wh ch t e ci Of o o a is bu l and l oo ed for i h ty B g t i t, k w ard with s atisfactio n to the termmation Of our

R ode h rou h C ax a to ill a e Febr uar y 2d. t g it a v g in fi e il es of th e ca i al as s1n t e e en with v m p t , p g h xt

i

e l an ation of th e ice - residen S an ander s iv p t V p t, t .

’ his rl ncel domain ex endin for m les a n T p y , t g i lo g h e road 1s encl os ed w h an excell en s one l t , it t t w al . is at res en ch e s ed as a razm far and It , p t, i fly u g g m, s s oc ed w h fine h erds of bl ac t s l i t k it k cat l e . A mal ' 1ver winds hrou h the rounds acro ‘ r t g g , s s which some br d es are hr O er the a ewa Of th fine i g t own. v g t y e pri ncipal entrance i s th e follow1ng s1ngul ar i nscrl p ti on : - La Hacienda de los an os de General — oe h n S antander . D s is Excellency believe m frie d

Febr uar 3d. n ered o o ain the mornl n y , E t B g t g

five miles .

Havm left C ara as o the 1 t of No ember g c n 2 h v , and a1 r1 ed at o a o t 3 d Of ebruar v B got n h e F y, we h ad been ei h four a s on the road but as w e g ty d y ; , ’ made but ft - two our e s th e a ra e da s r de fi y j n y , ve g y i i nearl wen e a s ance b no means s y t ty mil s, di t y

’ s mall co s de t c l ties Of the r a th e , n i ring h e difli u o d,

l a or ness Of t - e s rocra o s of di t i he mul e driv r , p stinati n I T INERA RY .

lcal es a nd th e de a A d , l ys caused by the necessity of ’ re eatedl ad us tin th e ba a e as the p y j g gg g , cords which

- confine it to the pack saddl es become sl ack .

Reca itulation o Distances and Sta es ro p f g f m. Caracas.

1822. — — Nov. 12. To A ntimano 5 Ajuntas 4 Mountain Buena

vista San- Pedro 12 , ,

Mountain C o uisas C onse o Vict ri q , j , e a

San- Mateo T urinero M raca , a y — San-Joa ui n For Cabrera Guacara Guam q , t , , , VA LEN C IA"

— Tocuyito 8 Carabobo 12 20 Chir ua Mountain Hermanas Tina u ll o 20 g , , q i

Las Palmas, Tinaco

Camaruco, Caramacate

Mountain Al tar C u isita , y — Cabudara 26 Barquisemeto 6

C erros Bl ancos G—Quibor 24

Humaracara- bajo P ena A ua Obis o , g p s C arach e

Val eria Iii— Mendoza 12

Timothes c La Puerta Mucuchi s over a aramo v r cold e , p , e y ucur a Faba ME DA M ab , y, RI S N L M 222 NOTE O CO O BIA .

30. To E edo Dec. g

San- l uau

Hacienda de Estanques Bailadores an ndian villa e , I g — Bail adores preper 7 Last House 6 La Grita

Post House, El Cobre The first house over the Paramo Luinbador Tariba — San- Cristoval 4 Capacho 16

S an- fl ntonia de Cucuta 17— San-Rosarzo 1

A Hacienda

Post House — Chopo 12 PA MPLO NA 12

One l ea ue be ond Cacota g y , Chita a over a Paramo g , C erreto ( Conce cion is p , Enc o C apitanejo

— Susacon 9 Satiba 12 Serinza

- — Santa Rosa 12 Paypa $20

Choconta

Caxita and a small vill ve mi les , age fi Bogota BO G OT A

Mil es 1080

I CHAPTER X II.

— — ~ V A LLE Y OF BOGOTA CITY CA T HE DRA L CONVE NT SA N “ ’ - — — FRA NCISCO PRIV A TE H OUSE S BOLIVA R S QUINTA DIN~ NE R A RT E S— TE E A MA — R L O S E R MO P I QU ND E IGI U C E NIE S .

Mu scas wh o formerl ccu e the a THE y , y o pi d v l l e of o o a ncl os ed b the aramo of C hin asa y B g t , e y P g , hrou h w h ch th e unza roll s an the Z i i t g i F , d paqu ra moun a ns con a n n hill s of s al ere amon t t i , t i i g t, w g h e mos t numerous and civilized of th e nations found i his ar of mer c h e . defen n t p t A i a . T y ded th e m sel es w h rea obs inac a ains the S aniards v it g t t y g t p , wh o experienced great difficul ty in reduci ng th em i r d t e d to to s ubj ection. Th e r t a i ions pr ten great a i ui the mos re mar a bl e ar of wh ch wa nt q ty ; t k p t i , s th e m s erious a earance of ochica s on of th y t pp B , e S un wh o res en ed hims elf amon h e hi , p t g t m, w le e ere i dis u e rel a i e to th e el ec on o a th y w n p t , t v ti f l hed in owin n . He w as a wh e man c o ki g it , t fl g

armen s w h a enerabl e beard . Af er lis enin g t , it v t t g to th e con end n ar ies h e oin ed out Huncah ua t i p t , p t g — t e e f t e e His in dom w as called to h ch oic o h peopl . k g Cundin marca and its r l er ad the i l e of za ue a , u h t t q , a o w a an l gous to th at of i nca among the Peru ns . och c th h usand ears B i a remained on e earth tw o t o y , wh en h e dis appeared mysteriously at Iraca near Hunca foun b the firs za ue of C ond na , ded y t q i marca and a th e S an ards , afterwards c ll ed by p i un a b T j . He instructed and civilized the inh a i

224? O T E S O N C OLO M N BI A .

tants worked m racl es ins u ed th e a , i , tit t c l endar of l th e Mu scas re ul a ed heir fes al s and y , g t t tiv , divided he1r da and ni h in o four ar s is ee t y g t t p t . H w k cone

sted of three f da s the common e s i y , y ar of twenty moons but h a of the r1es s b which the fes al s ; t t p t ,_ y tiv

' l a ed of t ii t s s e e ere re u h n. w g t , y v T wenty of these a ars fo1 med a c gre t ye ycle . W h en ues da wh o founde d th e c r Q a , ity , a rived at o o a h e found ha the M u scas ha a B g t , t t y d m de great ards i iza i advances tow civ l t on . Th e zaque w as a b sol ute ; his peopl e carried him about in a sort of al an u n a ended b uards and o rt e p q i , tt y g c u i rs whils t ow ers w ere s rewed al on th e ro nd o er h fl t g g u , v w ich he n er h e w as to pas s . T y ev approach ed him but w h an a er ed face a s if h e ma ne h a it v t , t y i gi d t t h e as a d1 init i n wh os e coun e a e h e dar w v y, t n nc t y e not l ook hese eo l e subs s ed ch e b a r cul ure T p p i t i fly y g i t , ere cl o h ed in co on arments and l ed i w t tt g , iv n regu

l ar s oc e . C r mes were un sh ed b ud es a i ty i p i y j g , p in ed to w a ch o er h emand he ossess ed i po t t v t , t y p h al ro er o wh ch a e ere l e ed dividu p p ty, n i t x s w vi , for

~

the s u or of o ernmen . he h ad em l e pp t g v t T y t p s,

. a ars r es s and s acr fices but h e r rel on wh lt , p i t i t i igi , ich ns ed in th e a or n f e un moon Bo co i st d atio o th s , ,

ch ca h is de scendan s and th e e l de es w as in» i , t , vi iti , te e w h ba s a d bl ood ceremoni es rmix d it rbarou n y . A t th e end of ev ery fifteen years th ey sacrificed a bo h o h ad be e i usl educa ed in th e y, w en pr v o y t e l e r es s at t mp e of th e s un at S agamozo. Th p i t en ed th e fice a e as ed t d victim to the sacri , nd wer m k LL Y O 5 V A E or B OG T A . 22

l e t he an r es s . O ne re esen ed och ca ik Egypti p i t pr t B i , wh o is the O siris or th e Mithras o f Bogota; to this ers on the ass ned hree h eads because as is al so p y ig t , , , the case w h th e rimur ofth e in o h e uni ed it T ti H d os, t hree ons in one ni A no h er ona ed t pers divi ty . t pers t ' the mons er Foma ta th e s bol of il h av t ga , ym ev , in but on e e four ears and a l on a l . h s g e y , , g t i T i Fom ata wh ose name si nifies fire 'or a boilm ag , g , g, ,

mel e d ass w as l oo ed u n a t e e ri . t m , k po s h vil spi t ’ om Fr Humboldt s Vues des Cordiller as .

Bo ota the res en oli cal ca i al of C ol omb a g , p t p ti p t i , and former residence of the Vice - roy of N ew Gra a ‘ 38 b D l na a founded i 15 . o n a n . n Go z d , w s , , y o ° ’ " X m nes de uezada . i s si ua ed in 41 3 6 30 i i Q It t t , ’ nor h la ude and 2 ° eas l on i ude from t tit , 47 t g t

Was hin on t an uOlB fl il Ofl Of 8 % fee abo e th e gt , a V 7 t v el of the se in a fru ful all e abou six l ev a, it v y t ty l es l on and wen broad ra ers ed b small mi g, t ty , t v y ers an ncom as s e d b oun ains some of riv , d e p y m t , o which are covered with perpetual s n w . Its o ul a io in ab ou p p t n, ( t t'e e n m era e Fahr. the ran e of M a te p tur , , g the thermometer bei ng but a few degrees Th e R ai ns are frequent from February to June. ima e is d s a reeabl ch ll on ac oun of its el e cl t i g y i y, c t o t o d almos con nuall h o erin v ati n, a nd he cl u s t ti y v g er t e c and resin on th e h ll cl ose to w h ch ov h ity, t g i s, i the c i ud ciousl bu l Owin to th e c on» ity s inj i y i t , g h ll s and the d rect on of formation of this ridge of i , i i

Mutis . O N LO B NOTE S C O M I A.

' val ent w nds the m s s of th e alle are th e pre i , i t v y al on its sides in endea our to esca e dri ven g , v ing p ,

“ a e ondens e n o orren of ra n w h ch fall and r c d i t t ts i , i

‘ over the city almos t e very afternoon d uri ng th e w et

- f s ea on. T he cl ma e ten m les off in the cen re o s i t i , t t e alle is com ara el dr h v y , p tiv y y . T he reci i ous h ei h s immed a el in rear of p p t g t i t y , t e ci e n el o e d in er e ual s s are cr wned h ty, v p p p t mi t , o b two rel ious hous es ontes errate and Guada y ig , M

l ou e cal led hermita es . h e are fas o n o p , g T y t g i g t deca an are nearl aban on d h av n at resen y, d y d e , 1 g p t b h ee or fou inma es h ou h for erl s o rea ut t r r t ; t g m y, g t w as th e desire to gai n admis s ion;to hous es of this des cr on h a in s ome o h e m hree hous and ipti , t t f t , t t oll ars were exac ed fo the T e re o d t r privil ege . h v l o ion ' h as i en a new nclina ion to th e m nds of t ' g v i t i

the eo l e . he be n to ercei e h a th e em p p T y gi p v , t t l o me nts and d u ies of s ocie are as a reeable p y t ty g , and ui e as us eful a s coun in beads an l n q t , t g , d ivi g a er e ual fo in p p t g. ' T he l an Of th e c is re ul ar th e s ree s abou p ity g ; t t , t

wen - five fee broad are well a e cross each t ty t , p v d, o her at r h a l es an are s u l e th runni n t ig t ng , d pp i d w1 g

w a er. hree s reams desce in f om the oun t T t , nd g r m a n ra ers e the c o er he are e h excel . se t i , t v . ity ; v t , ig t l en s one brid es e T he r nc hous es and ar t t g p i ipal , p ticul arl hos e of the cal e r a e o two s or es y t l eal, r f t i , buil in th e usual ea h s n t manner of rammed rt , or u dried br c s l a e i e wash ed and ro i k , p s t red and wh t , p ided w s e v ith balconies proj ecting over th e tr et . T he s de wal th s ree are a d and i ks of e main t t fl gge ,

C OLO NOTE S ON MBI A .

The de h of th e bu l d n is hre a cupol as . { pt i i g t e h un d fee one sid end n al n a ree dre t ; e, ext i g o g s t t th e h ol e l en h of the s uare resen s no h n bu ‘a w gt q , p t t i g t

w all h a n one door and a number of small win» , vi g ~

dows . T he roof is s urmoun ed b a dome ser n , t y , vi g ‘ o row i T h er o t th l ght upon the high al tar . e i nt i r is nea l a e h br c s a d di ded t y p v d wit sq uare i k , n vi n o three a sl es b two ro s of c l umns of rea i t i , y w o , g t

beau wh ch s u or th e aul ed roof. The aisl es ty, i pp t v t l ead on to th ardrobe the o h er to an n er or , e e w , t i t i " h ch apel and the apartments of the pries ts . T e a e " near th e door is n erru ed b a cl ums n v , , i t pt y y

’ i extendin be ween th e row s of col umns hus cho rf g t , t interce pti ng a view of the al tar from the s quare n assin around h s h ea s ructure ouare in O p g t i vy t , y

' “ of he i h l ar e in a sem - c l ndr cal front t h g a t , pl ac d i y i i

‘ al co e brillian l l h e b the w ndo s ~o e v , t y ig t d y i w f th

' ” ome. T he al ar is somew h at l e a e d and s as d t e v t , i rich as. a n n s scul ure ldin sil s el e s p i ti g , pt , gi g, k , v v t ,

‘ and e wel s can a e Al on the s des of the j m k it . g i “ ch urch are arched " recess e in wh ch h ere e , s, i t ar ‘ ” s hr nes or smaller al ars six on each s de all er i t , i , v y

‘ r ch and beau if T alls are hun w h s ome i t ul . he w g it e l l u l r w el execu ed s r tural ieces . Th co mns a g , t , c ip p e

° of th e interior a c er abou for re of the Ioni ord , t ty fee hi h of mason or but s o beau ifull l as t g , w k , t y p tered as to imitate the polis h of fine marbl e ; the ca i al s e h ed to two of h ese p t ar richl y g ilt. A ttac t ’ col umns near the hi h al ar are twe ul i s ex o , g t , p pt , ' ’ uis itel w rou h which h ave the a earance Of q y g t, pp ’ be n made of massi e ol d richl embos sed . T he i g v g , y ‘ O T S AN - CO C N V EN FRA NCLS .

whol e a earance is ha Of a l h ell o pp t t ig t, w p r por , tioned building It pres ents a striking contras t to the enerali of ch urches in hi coun r wh c g ty t s t y, i h are overl oaded with incongruous ornament; as if the the architect had been to bewilder the presenti ng to his attention a con fus ed mass of Obj ects T he greatest Obj ection to the interl or ofthis build » in is t is l u sil mad g he mispl aced ch oir. It v ery c m y e ' Of a dark wood in erru s th e na e and des ro s , t pt v , t y

' the effec of the col umns b bein buil a a ns t y g t g i t, ' he f th em. T ront does no t prod uce the eflect which

’ ’ migh t be expected from a buil ding of s uch magni~

‘ ‘ d ’ his a t d o = t u e . T m y be owmg o the crow de rna men s and its be n o much cut u in o s mall com» t , i g s p t artments and nic e th e il as ers and arch es as p h s, by p t ; ell as to th e va l et of i are s l aced u on th e w r y m n t , p p oof wh ch e to t e build n th e a earance of r , i giv h i g pp eas rn em an te t pl e . The Palace of Gover nment occupies the oppo

‘ e s id of t e consis s ' of a ce n re sit e h square . It t t din rai e lf a s or abo e th e win s buil g, s d about h a t y v g ,

‘ “ o T he bal conies of w hich c rres pond in appearance .

the wi ngs are furnis hed with Ve netian blinds . In

‘ ‘ the centre is a n f arched en rance . T he fi e l o ty, t

- build n Vice president h as apa rtments in this i g. ,

' ' ’ “ ment and the Vice - president s guard occupy th e r mainder e .

W e COnvent o S an- Francis co occu es two ‘ f pi s a e fee b six hundred th e qu r s , or three hundred t y , T S ON O LO M NO E C BI A .

s uare ho we er is se ara s s econd q , v , p ted from the fir t ree and i s merel encl ose o by a s t t, y d as a garden ; s tha t the space actually built upon 1s but three h un a he side e dred feet squ re . T of the church ext nds the whol e l ength of th e pl aza ' as two l ar e arched doors and h g , uare and circular ar1an e w i hou t s all es s q , g d t t he m t

re ard to s mme r . T he fron S er row and g y t y t I v y nar , is en rel a en u b an immens e arch ed en ti y t k p y ,

’

rance reachin to the roof. . O u th l ef of the t , g e t e n rance is a s one ower four s ories hi h h a in t t t , t g , v g gall eries with iron railings at the s econd and fourth th l e s urmoun ed b a s ee T h e s tories e who t y t pl e .

” buildings for th e accommodation Of th e monks are a r n ed round two cour s the ch urch fo min o e r a g t , r g n s he s ide of th at m front . A t s e buildings h ave their doors and 1ndows l oo n in o the i o courts w ki g t nteri r , erior res en s no hin but a dead all T he the ext p t t g w . communication to th e numerous apartments is by

' ach our is nea l d » ll er es . c a e and h as ga i E t t y p v , a

. T fountai n in th e centre . he gall eries are covered i r ra s of ri es s an s e ea w th po t it p t , d om l arge and b u tiful pal ntings by th e old mas ters T he interim of the church 1s very much l oaded T e a1 t i h ornam s . h w h ol e t e bac sur wt ent of h k p , l ound n the h h al ar IS co ered h ain n s i g ig t , v wit p ti g in richly gil t frames ; th e pr1nc1pal obj ect presented ' to the e e be1n old l eaf T h s des are decora ed y g g . e i t w i h sh rines and are er much l umbered u wi h t , v y p t sain s an a T h e choir in a aller o o t d im ges . , g y pp s e the al ar ood or h s is = it t , contains a very g gan ; t i d

OTE S O N OLOM N C BI A .

th e flowers are arranged in' l ittl e beds formed of ’ in the l e ers of th e res n s name and bricks , tt P ide t , b a i es of in s pri ncipal victories . Th e e ut ful varieti p k

“ re au h to u er th e names o aca Carabobo a t g t tt , B y , ,

’ d ib r ador— a er an L e t ridicul ous piece of flatt y, ch th e residen m The whi P t ust cordially despl se . ounds are abundan l su ul e fall gr t y pplied by a riv t, er l ug l n littl e cascades from one terrace to anoth , w hich 1n its de ous course fill s t o or hree ma , vi , w t

s on wor rece acl es a e con» k pt , embosomed in fol i g , uc ed for the co en a str t nv ience of b thing. f h 1 u h th e n eres of r. ual secre ar o T o g i t t D G , t y a e w e rocured excell en ua e in th e h ous e st t , p t q rt rs

of Mr . lbers a. German mer h an es abl shed at E , c t, t i

- S an a Mar h a then on s ome bus ness i n th e ca al . t t , l i pit ,

A t. his s um uousl furnis h e d ab e w e h ad a o pt y t l , n p portunity of meetingth e prl ncipal inh abitants of th e ci h e h eads of the differen d ar men s and ty, t t ep t t ,

her oflicers of o er me bo h ci il and m l ar . ot g v n nt, t v i it y

‘ “ ffa rs 1n ui o ewl a ach ed to th e re ubl A i Q t , n y tt p ic, etscarcel ran uill zed and the row n s orm y y t q i , g i g t 1n eru induced th e res de r s s on P , P i nt to ask pe mi i f con ress o l ea e th bia h a o g t v e territory of C ol om , t t h e mi h assl s in the e ma i s er s a e g t t nc pationof a s i t t t , ' and by acting oflensively agains t the mos t numerous d eflicient S an h arm m r an p is y in A meri ca, o e cifec tuall s ecure the s afe of th e blic y ty repu . HIS 1nte nded visit to the capital was 1ndefinitely os one C n p tp d . o gress made some ineffectual attempts ' at a mee n b t e o form a ti g, u were unabl t quorum in the sena e ill af re t t , t ter our departu on he fifth ofA pril . C A R NIV A L . 233

Burl u our s a in the ca al we r g t y pit , eceived every

“ mar of at enion indne s s and ’ k t t , k res pect; A day or two before th e commencemen f t t o he quar es ma, we

a i “ w ere n i ed b Madam C t t i t to isi her ui i v t y v t q nta,

’ ab u two miles fro th-e o t m city . W e called on h er ’ abou 11 o cl oc in the mormn a nd ac m t k g, co panied ’ a l ar e ar on foo to th e scene of fes g p ty t, tivity . T he ar w ere fu ll of aie fr i p ty g ty, ol c and fun th e l ord of m srul e h eld uncon roll ed sw a i t y . S carcely had we reach ed the s uburbs before th e , pranks of the

“ en l emen be an to s h ow hems el e he g t g t v s . T y w ere all ro ded w h red and bl ac ain and p vi it k p t, phial s ' of diflerent col oured l uids withf w hich th e b iq , y . e , s meared and s a ned the l ad es faces an cl t i i d oth es .

‘ W e found th e party at th e quinta al ready engaged in danc n . O n en er n the room t i g t i g , he as sembl ed guests with boisterous mirth inflicte d the1r wel come, s ear n th e faces Of the ne mers l “ by m i g w co , ti l not at ar icl e of th e s n could be see n C ol onel T it tle p t ki , , oa rmved s oon af er w as imme ia tel s urrou de w h t , d y n d

' “ b ten or wel e l adies and in e inu e his face y t v , on m t , , a and wa s coa d s l a e d all the col ours of crav t, i t t, i p y i t m s f the rai nbow . A s h e s tood n h e id t o these ua s h e a not a bad re res entatw e of painted s q w , w s p a a For a omen h ere was a stru l e Tuscaror . m t t gg ! between his dignity and politenes s ; bntrecoll ecting th e ol ada e he s uffere d h mself to be carr ed al on d g , i i g

‘ b the wh o t e a an l a ed his ar in y ims f h d y, d p y p t this grotesque farce with rgreat good nature; ‘Not s o th e s ecre a ar w ho arr ed s h or l af er; t ry of w , iv t y t T h e ch ef us ice n a em n to~ s ear his face i j t , i tt pti g m , 30 4 4 O T E S ON C O LO MB £ 3 1 N I A .

‘ as a ccidentall scratclmd b th e secre ar in de~ w , y y t y, s h s -di not oc ur befor fending himself. A t i d c e th e

ies but in th e court- ard h her he h ad re l ad , y , w it t y

ed e f ar d s o e , n l easan conse uences trea t , w e e m u p t q h ei o s and o from th e1r warmth . T r g od ense g od a re h o e er s oon re urne but the m nis er n tu , w v , t d ; i t ' kept his face and dignityuns oil ed by a singl e bl otch . O ur nex arr al was th e fa r er a a s he as t iv i B n din , , een s ai d a d s n uis hed ench l ad is h as b of i ti g Fr y, e Her both une Jolie fe mme et une b lle femme .

fi ure is finel rounded and beau ifull ro or~ g y , t y p p tioned h er coun enance l an uish i n and s r h l , t g g, p ig t y l hou h h ad ne e s b o e by turns . A t g I v r een her ef r , s he addressed me in the mos t pl ayful mannergwith a re ues to uncor a Co o ne bo l e fil e h q t k l g tt , l d wit ' s ome redd i uid which no sooner h ad h im q ; , I t e s l cit to accom l h h an s he s ri p i y p is , t p nkl ed me with its bontents from h ea to foo for m ai S he d t, y p ns . en ered the room ‘ in b l d In a o e t , a al ress . m ment th ros es and lil es of h er beau ful face a d i ti , n neck,

ivm the us ual l a i u e to th e term a e l ace (g g t t d , ) g v p

' ‘ to red bl ue and ree n la d on not ver de zcate , , g , i y t ly

’ ' th wen braw n h ands re s y t ty y . I gretted this di figu ration excee dingly for not h aving had a ha nd in the affa r wa in i , I s no w ay indemnified for the l oss m e es s us a ed b t or h o i e he me a s s . Th y y t in , y t m p bell e w as by no means idl e dur1ng the ceremony of h er introductl on ; she dis pens ed the l iquid from her Col o ne bo l e w h ou s in and as s he a been g tt , it t t t, h d ro uis h enou h to us e s ome un en mix ure the g g p g t t ,

' caball eros w ere obli ed toscam er off t sa e heir g p , o v t

“ r ms on C O LO 2 36 No MBI A .

1

n n the 22d of ebruar I“ was much ma , o F y, l eased , p

‘ wi h th e is h o of o o a who was amon t B p B g t , g the

es s . O n be n as e fo a oa u d, r st h e e a g t i g k t , gav p a

triotic sen men a nd w oul d not dr n ll hi , l a ti t, i k, ti s g ss h ad been placed between mi niature flags of the ed S a es and Colomb a h wh Unit t t i , wit ich th e table

was decorated . T he dinner given by Col onel s B arron-Nuevo ‘ um uous d a en an al s as er s a n . d P i , w v y pt g y A g l e e th tle man th ey cal d P rez w as e s oul of the party . h a al n ha c1rcul ated for e me A fter t e ch mp g d som ti , be required th e gues ts to take thei r gl as s es In their

nds and l ace h eir el bow s on th e abl e . He h a , p t t he a e the res den and ran the ch an es o t n g v P i t, g g n t s ub ect h e had ch osen in the h a s manner he j , ppie t , l n to h imfif encom as c e h e s hin app yi g ty i ti pit t , touc g

“ h is charac er or fea s of arms the co a a h t t , mp ny t eac a n e compl iment t ki g a sip of win . h e en l eman w h o h ad afforded us s o much T g t ,

“ a us emen is at res en en a e in e ea our m t, p t g g d nd v ing to d rain the a e Gua a i a s i ua ed to the north L k t v t , t t

“ ' of o a on the Z i a uira mountains ‘ at an ah Bog t , p q ,

- f s ol u e el e a ion o 8 6 , ee his l a e w as used t v t f 9 1 t . T k

by , theaborigi nes for purposes connecte d w ith the religious ceremonies of abl ution T he remai ns of

a s airwa are t s till t be s een b w ich the In t y o , y h

dians desce nded to th e w a r ( N ear is the dra n te . it i , com en e f r ues in o r to m c d s hortly a te the conq t, rde

‘ ' reco er th e treas ures ~ hich ere s aid to ha e been v , w w v " " hrow n in o the l ak e as s oon as ues ada a eared t t , Q pp o th e l ain a n p of B ogot . l LA KE GUATAVITA . 237 ,

-It is with the same n ew th at th e excavations are now carr n o A small olden . ma e s a d to yi g n, g i g , i a e bee fo n in his l was resen ed to 0 010 h v n u d t ake, p t

“ nel by a foreign gentleman residing in the capital . O the i 5th of March a ar of en l emen and n , p ty g t

t o t r ba to s i the famous fal ls ' l adies s e u on h o s e ck , vi t

“ da W the cit in th e af ernoon of Tequen ma . e l eft y t , f t a a l a at the and to ed or he n h at s m l ll e . as pp ig t vi g , of e r e e roceeded t mornin h ouse th cu at . W p nex g n: a t th all h ch is ab u fi lea u s o our w y o e f , w i o t ve g e o o a Af er descendin b s ome bad roa s from B g t . t g y d , w e were compelled to dis mount ‘ and l eave the W e no r e r a h ors es with the s ervants . w g op d ou w y f for h alf an h our through the dense foliage ; our in abl e o di experienced guide not being t take us. rect

to the s . W e as sed se eral s all s haf s ly pot p v m t , wh ch h ad been ex l ored for coal A t l en h i p . gt one of th e en l emen direc ed us b his o ce to g t t ‘ y v i th e l ace our ex ec a ons ra sed to the hi h e p , p t ti i g s t pitch . T h e S al to de Tequendama does not yiel d to

'

' no n cascade a n n o consider t o any k w , t ki g i t a i n its e h and the ol u o is ch arac r h ig t v me fwater . It te is ed by umb ld as the os r s ue scene to be fd n H o t, m tpictu e q u d

in the des . T he ra i on ofthe u scas the abo A n t d ti M y , r nal na i es wh o occu ied h s ar of th e coun r igi t v p t i p t t y, rel a es h a he r rea le sl a or och ca came w t , t t t i g t gi t B i , upon th e earth ccom an ed b his wife Ch a for t e ur , a p i y , i , h p pos e of instructing his people in agriculture and th e useful arts ; but h e was constantly thwarted in h is 238 NO T E S on C O O B L M IA .

'

" bene ol en de s ns b th e m sch e ous dis os i e v t ig y i i v , p

tio n of his w fe . S h e caused the r rs to swell an , d i ivfie r a o e ow th e valle o o o . the el u e , In d all v fl , y fB g t g ,

‘ the inhabitants exce t a few wh o s ucceeded in a n , p g i

in the oun ains e ris h ed . och ca exas era e g m t , p B i , p t d at hl S w fe o e h er f the ear h i , dr v rom t , when s h e he

came th e moon. He h en h a s troke f m t , wit b his ar , o ened a as s a e for the wa ers and h us for med p p g t , t , the fall of T e uendama b wh ch mean th e a n q , y i s pl i

w as d rained .

44 . This Indian fabl e unitesa number of traits to be found s cattered th rough th e religious traditions of f e eo l e of the old con en T he ; many o th p p tin t . per sonification of the good and bad principl es are re n s ed in ochica an hi fe a T re cog i B d s wi , Chi . he e er od w hen the moon d d not ex s reca l mot p i , i i t, l s t etent o s to n f t dia h e he pr i u a tiquity o h e A rca ns . T queen of th e night is repres ented as a malignant be

' in w hich ncreas es the h umidi of the ear h g, i ty t ; h l s och ca son of the s un dries th e so l as s s s w i t B i , , i , i t ‘ a ric lture and became thebenefac or o the Mu s g u , t f y

- ” ~ s as the firs nca w as of he eru ians . ca , t I t P v T ravell ers who h ave viewed the imposmg s1tua t n of the rea cascade of e uendama are not io g t T q , r s ed ha a rude eo l e s h oul d h a e a ribu surp i , t t p p v tt t

' e d a m racul ous or in to hes e roc s which s ee m to i ig t k ,

narrow ab s s n o which the r er uni in al l the y , i t iv , t g s reams of the lle of o o a is reci a e- to t v a y B g t , p pit t d ; h a ris res l e i th e mos be au iful co t t i , p ndent w th t t l ours ch an in t each momen to ha , g g its form a t ; t t

f NoTE s . o s C OLO MBI A .

' ra d and on arr n at the br n pi ity, ivi g i k, fall s in a

“ s h ee aboutgfort ‘ fe across u on a led e of o t y et , p g r cks,

‘ de r ss ed abouttwent fee and e h or ten bro p e y t, ig t ad . h s first ch roduces cons derabl e foamin the T i pit p i g, w a er h en er much br e n n o ar cl es t e t , t , v y ok i t p ti ,

‘ “ s bl n a dense m s or akes of no escend em i g i t, fl s w d in w h re tvel ocit is rec i a e d nto th e a n g it g a y, p ip t t i y W a s ing by s .

’ Th e s urface re en ed to Vl e W is b no means p s t , y l oo h or w ell defined its rre l ari b in ow in s m t , i gu ty e g g to smal l masses of water recel vmg an Incre as ed im

ti be ond the- ul se and u n main bod . p , j t g y y

‘ Th e n arrow ' gl en is occasionally s o fill ed with

a m l e el to on al the roc s . bel o our s co c ce . vap , p t y k w h ad s to th e effec b remo n an efin T is d t, y vi g y d ite Th e coll e limit to the depth . ction and dispersion of the mst al so es a r et to the scene W h i , giv v i y . en cl eared off b th e curren of air Wh ch Is u ard y t , i pw s, th e s rea bel ow is s een d m n sh ed b d s a t m i i i y i t nce,

' o a s mall r ul e wind n i s c urs e be e t t iv t, i g t o tw en he ec i n ro on or es a es all r r ei proj t g p m t i , mj tic y ea i ng th r

‘

ad s enc rcl e b cl ouds of a our h ch ren er. he , i d y v p , w i d ’ more l uxuriant the enormous trees and verdant foa

a e cro n h e r mmi s . li g , wni g t i su t WV e e wed th e fal l onl from the to be n as vi , y p, i g red h a t arr e at the bo om re uired a o l s u t t o iv tt , q t i

s o effort f s eral hours b a circu ous route. me o ev , y it N o doubt the appearance from below w ould h ave b n duc ions round us ee more m osin . Th e ro a . i p g p t ,

' w ere h o one but a l ance oof t se of th e temperate z , g th e o e e to e ab ss re al ed in all y , th e bottom of th y , ve the r l u ia t of the e u oc al re on i xur nce,j hose q in ti gi t . L O S C E REMO RE IGI U NIns . aqd

oc s us abo e t e f s are at el o The r k j t v h all , an evati n

‘

a o th e o fee . Th e unz f o h s b ve sea, f t F a, r m t i o n ill it o ns the Ma dalena d scends mor p i t, t . j i g ,) e e, h 6 0 ee h c es an a era t an 89 f t, w i h giv v ge of 153 feet:

a mle From this t w oul d a ear h a t e a . i , i pp , t t h he d of na a on of the a dal ena i bo vig ti M g , s a ut “ 304: feet s i above its mouth . A s um ng 700 mil es as the navi abl e l en h of the Ma dal ena w c is not fa g gt , g , hi h r

f the t r it mea des e i f ‘ rom uth, s n c nt s ound to be abou o e fo e h and a al inch es in t n ot ig t h f a mile .

t e c ra h r dull h e l as wee of he a h ity t e , T t k t f st, . we r wa enl e ed b reli ns ho ve , s iv n y gm and military

roces ions . S cul ur fi ures as l ar as fe r p s pt ed g ge li , e re t e e en s o the h s or a rs e p senting h v t f i t y, nd pe cutions of our a o were c r ed hrou h the s e o S vi ur, ar i t g tre ts, n a for s fro ne c r h o ano her f l e pl t m , m o hu c t t , ol ow d by the r es s Cl Vl l and m l r o ficers an i nc l p i t , i ita y f , d pr ipa i nh abitants beari ng w ax candl es d an n I th e crow at t e One ay as I was st di g n d, h

” o r of a ch urc in c a on of seein the un d o h, expe t ti g f cion one f th e chief offcers of overnmen who , _ o i g t, t th e ceremon a was g oing o is part In y, sked bl ic h o e e wh a we re an ou h f . m t pu s t g t. o th s v s O n m o ser in — u ea to th e e es anitie . y b v g yo sp k y , w e to the ears ; one method of conveyl ng religious

s en ment o the unders and n is to be referre , ti s t t i g, p d

to ano h er ac ord n to c rcums ances . he t , c i g i t e b e emon es a e u too much me repli d, ut our c r i t k p ti , and are too x ns e h owe er we mus s ubm e pe iv v , t it, ” w e are notyet strong enough to do withoutall this . 3 1 NO T E S O N CO LOMBI A

A fter accompanying the proces sion a sh ort d is tance ,

the main s ree a sli h s hower nduced h ' up t t, g t i im to ’ e out ofu th ra s a a e s h el er I s t p e nk , nd t k t n a friend s

h ous e . W h en wi h him a d a or two af er be r t , y t , p o

’ duced th e n le hich he a d h e h ad u ca d , w , s i , p rl oined from th e prIes ts .

. A few days before th e commencement of these roces sions the s ree s hrou h wh ch h e er p , t t , t g i t y w e to a s w ere carefull cl eaned an the h o ses p s , y , d u

’

s hed . For his ur os e each of the sca white wa t p p , ers was ro ided w a s ac made ‘ of r aw v eng , p v ith k, ’ h de abou as l ar e as a s ch o l bo s sa ch el . h s i , t g o y t T i fill b me ans of the h ands and arr e w as ed, y , c i d on e h o l der to one of th e s reams w h ch ra th s u , t , i t verse ’ th e city ; th e dirty water trickling down th e man s

b c at e er s e . Th e rs on ho shoul I a k, v y t p pe w d n

ro e a w h eel - barrow woul d deser e h e freedo t duc , v t m

' t c The i l e n for white hin he . m me was i of ity p t g, s 1m l a ece of ra ed on the end of a s c s p y pi g, ti ti k ;

' th e ‘ rag is dipped in the lime and flopp ed agains t l h s l an is or h the aten on of hose th e Wa l . T i p w t y t ti t w ho are so anxw us to find out e mployment for the oor for b means of i h th e u mos as siduit p ; , y it, w t t t yy ’ one personcannot besmear more thari a few s quare ards in a da wh ereas b our l a s h ex end ur y y ; , y vi p it e

“ ’ of e ml o m en a mon h s labour is s allo e u p y t, t , w w d p

' E O C OLOM NOT S N BI A . most probably with a prayer forth e 's afe qpassage oun a n or a han s n at h a as ed of th e m t i , t k givi g vmg p s in s af 5 Th e descen is now exceed n l it ety . t i g y d and theroad n ol er bl bad— forded a small rapi , i t a y

’ W e met on t e road firs the wh eel s nd after h , t , a wards th e body of a gig ; the former carried by four r n h a rel ef of the e t l a er b me , wit i r, he tt y e1 ht w h a rel ef in all tw g , it i , necessity of so many porters may convey s ome idea

ad been cut through th e woods ; the narrow u nroad not be n of suffic en idt l s nke , i g i t w h to a l ow

w eal thy merch ant of Bogota h ad i mported this vehia cl e h ch w as , w i

rea sa isfac ion as he ave an ear nest th a we g t t t , t y g t

ne ver felt comfortably w arm, except when taking exercise and h as here a re o fi e a e fre « ; t n r s, I h v . quently g one to bed to get rid of th e disagreeabl e

‘ ch ll ness . e no al o found o e of he tro i i W w, s , s m t cal l a A t h s l a e firs s a a case of th e pi p nts . t i p c I t w

l e ros ha os d ust n of all d sorders . Th e p y, t tm t isg i g i d oors of th e h ouse atl w hich we s topped w ere finely w ou h In annel wor th e material a beautifii l r g t p k,

' h ard w ood a lth ough the h ous e l its elf w as built of canes the in er i fi l ed w i h mud and , t s t ces being l t son. h a er al h o e o T e most commonm t i , wev r,f r doors f in hous es of this de scription, is a rame of Wood Co e vered with an undress ed hid .

— ' G a u s f l a ues at 1 P. M. ar u d a our e g , , P ts of the road — s o e fine V ew very s teep enj oyed m i s . W e p res ented l etters from our friends in Bogota to C ol o el A cos a h en er ained lus ~ er n t , w o t t v y h ospi

- tably . This g entl eman i s the Juez pol itico of the

v ll a e of Guaduas and ro rie or of. hir le i g , p p t t ty agues

w ell nformed a reeabl e man of a r a ch l i , g , p t i r a si m

licit of manners . In one end of his l ar e h o se p y g u , h e ee s a s ore con a n n s ome fore n f abr cs k p t , t i i g ig i , and th e little manufactures of his tenants ; pri nci all onsis n of raw h a s wh ch are a fi p y c ti g st t , i m nufac are d in almost e er house of th e lla e s anda t v y vi g , ls,

as e s and woo en essel s . He a ends to b k t , d v tt this

l t l e sh o hims elf. W h l e s i n w h himher i t p i tti g it e, I h ad an opportunity of witnessi ng the kind inte rest ‘ ' h e oo as a ma istrate and l andl ord in th e afi airs t k, ~ g , of his cl ients and tenants ; as w ell as th eir respect

” ful et confidin bear n n his res ence . T , y g i g i p hese

enan s a - from si to e h a nd ten dollars t t p y x ig t, per annum for as much l a s h e choose to cul a , nd a t y tiv te. W e s aw some of h em h o came to bart r w h t , w e it h eir a ron is ose of heir manufac ur s ob a t p t , d p t t e , t in

! a small l oa ask alms or ad . he were a n, e T y ll ’ ndl rece ed lis ened to wi a ence and dis ki y iv , t th p ti ,

mis sed contented .

.Hp ril 9th . We were well pleased to be detained NOTE S ON COLOMBI A;

- for w an of b a a e - mul es en o m m a to day, t gg g , j y g h ful cl ma e the a reeabl e s ocie of our nd delig t i t , g ty ki fhis nex d i b ur the C ra e and h a o oor ne h o . h os t, t t t g , u t ,

“ m s of a s m l n ndus rious con en ed in the id t i i g, i t , t t ' ' he C ura aid the Un ed S a e popul ation. T te p it t t s an com l men s s o e ofW as hin ton ran lin m y p i t , p k g , F k , on and drew allel be ween our in and Jeffers , a par t an ose of e ex olled our s titutions d th C ol ombia . H t ‘ ties i du r an a c ures the . facil sch ool s, n st y, d m nufa t , i ‘ of communl cation by me ans of s team- boats and? Coach es th e hri n s a e of a r cul ure and the , t vi g t t g i t , s C ol o e a oul d con l ightness of th e tax e . n l A cos t w templ ate these gl owi ng p1ctures with a feeling of ncredul and del h m n l e i h the re re s of i ity ig t, i g d w t g t a a rio at not‘ s eein the s a e a an a es en o p t t, g m dv t g j y his n coun r a n to th ed by ow t ymen . T h e tr ns itio e

” t nfer o us es of h e r and th e ruel m s a e , ca i i ity, c , i t k n l c of th e mo h er coun r w as na ural f er po i y t t y, t A t

' commen in on h es e w h bi ernes s his mortifica~ t g t it tt ,

’ on and ch a r n a e w a before the ch eeri n a » ti g i g v y, g n t i ations of th f ic p e uture . C ol onel A cos a exchan ed e of the t g my s addl , uro ean form for one of t e c r havm a E p , h ount y, g hi h cantl and ommel ormed as g e p , which w as s o f to fford a er convenl ent w r n des the s r a v y iti g k, , ti ! ru s bein in t e s ha e of e and made of p g h p a s h o ,

8 bras s as al s o m b1 idle for one the bit of wh ch y , i w ei h ed s e ral g ve pounds . T he absol ute height of Guaduas is 3772 feet ts mea i n em era r 6 5 h r. te de rees t p tu e 7 . Fa n g h her h an h a T he descen rom t e ig t t t of Bogota. t f h

OTE S ON C O LO M N BI A . ver is too ra id for s eam na a on the o d d , p t vig ti ; g o ol

‘ firms th eir opinicm,) made by one of our steam " ferr - boa s of l l e o er which a unabl to y t , , itt p w , w s e

' ' o ale rniles an h ur. o d t e a e a h e abo t W e cr sse h M gdal n , whic is h re u dre ards e i a s mal ca o h one hun d y wid , n l n e, wit

l n s of a re hens on and s us on findin as, feel g pp i di g t, g, e were abou to s e m at as cr d w t t p , th it w ow ed With

W e resented our l e ers from C l on l s p tt o e Aco ta, S e or D e o a merch an f onda : to n i g , t o H , w h o con duc ed us to a l ar e ac n house m wh ch w r t g v a t , i we e e; " ‘ to res de un l he could ro de us as a i , ti p vi a p s ge. He ent a abl e an s ome a rs a s t , d ch i , a v se to contain wa

er a d a woman to co . W e rch ed c t , n ok pu as kit hen u ensl s of ear e ar and ro i s ns I h f t i th nw e, p v io n al an our our ména e o le e a e s us nded h , g w as c mp t , nd w p e u sel s in a on of th a re o r ve , p tient expectati e dep rtu of th firs c a an h s did ot a e l ac ll the e t h mp . T i n t k p e ti th s o ha we con ued enan s of ou r e i 7 ; t t tin t t r la g ,

d l a a ed ans o s en da s . Th er ean was i pid t m i n, ev y e s g t s n bac w h ur l es w h as su c s of o e t k it o mu , it ran e ur afe arrl al and or abl e s u o s v , comf t it ati n O ur o d l andl o d D e o id us a s e er g o r i g , pa . vi it v y

Th e riv r M ta w h m ties into th e Orinoco the e e , hic e p , ( Ohio and Missismppl to with present

‘ ‘ h er fin b s am- anot e th eatre for navigation y te boats . ’ HOND A

morn n to e us th e news and m mre o r wan s i g, giv , q u t e rocure d our r ce ch ocol a e and bread f th e H p i , t , , or One da h e brou h the a a in t i o a e. l in ell v y g y, g t pp g ence ha our e il enl us Moral es as in o g , t t v g , , w p s e, s s on of h e r er abo e Mom os an sh d t e si t iv , v p , d wi e o now w he h er w e w oul d defer our o a e but we k t v y g , a e him to unders and h a our w s h as to mi g v t , t t i w e bar on board th firs cham an whe h er o s eur k e t p , t M n i ons on h ad osses si on of th e river or not T p , ° ’ ° onda Si ua ed in 5 16 . nor h l a i ude and 4 H , t t t t t , ’ ’ " 1 1 5 eas l on i ude from W as h n on is a er 9 t g t i gt , v y en buil mme ia el on the s anci t tow n, t i d t y h ore of th e Ma da ena th e h ous es are mos l of s one h os e g l ; t y t , t ’ on th e water s edge being very high and battl e

’ nted res en in th e a earance on his s e of me , p t g pp , t id , T wo cree s em n o the r e a fortification. k pty i t iv r ; one of er cl ear w a er excell en for ba h n abo e v y t , t t i g, v , ‘ and ra d bel ow th e o O e th e other deep pi , t w n. v r l h ere h ad formerl been an excell en th e atter, t y t ne br d e but th e cen re er w as hrown' down sto i g ; t pi t ,

“ i h it ar of th e arish es abou h r carrying w t p t , t t i ty ea a o b an e r h ua e wh ch des ro ed y rs g , y a t q k , i t y ' e T he breach IS fill ed u b a many of th e h ous s . p y : u e wh ich nclines to one s de and w ooden struct r , i i , re s eems very insecu . W e found the climate of Honda oppress ively hot; th ough th i s may h av e been owing to the s udden a lf the transition from the colder one of Bogot . Ha h th e l e ros . ffl c e i nhabitants of th e town are a i t d wit p y, l ' f T h e bod of the ne ro and many with th e goitre. y g boa an us o er the Ma d al ena was tm , who ferried v g , “ OTE S COLOM 250 N BI A .

h e of l e os h e w it , pr y ; plied

addl e w h our e ed r b tu his p it vig , s e m o us usual appearance presented thos e who

’ u r h s orde i ha of l d and wh e nde t i dis r, s t t ivi it

l o es o t e elbows u l s o her f ex o b tch n h , kn ck e , t d posed parts of the bo y.

O T S O N COL N E OirBIA .

‘ crew cons s n of a T he , i ti g patron and nine hands, ours el es and s er an WIth two o her as sen ers v v t, t p g , made the number of pers ons on board amount to f T h e s tern a f r s e a e for fi teen. w s u ni h d with pl ac ‘ coo in made Of br c On the to Of the cham k g, i ks . p

' pa nwe tied our hen- coop ; a nd cl us ters of pl antains in ende for the cre l ne th h ol e e 1 t d w, i d e w sid . W us hed off t e boat; M . e h of th e p a A . ig t men addlin furiousl ch an in in chorus and p g y, t g ,

‘ n the t me b s ri in th e i e h k ee pl g i , y t k g s d of t e

m an wi h heir addl es . A t 12 ed a ch a p t t p , pass

‘ f s u ar - l oaf mountarn d rec l in th e o r beauti ul g , i t y c u se

O f th e ' ri er a arentl bloc n th e assa e— v , pp y ki g p g 7, ban s Of modera e h e h basal c l oo n k . t ig t, ti ki g

- l s . A t i as s ed the firs t ho s e a nea co a wal i , p u , t t

‘ a‘ e surrounded b l an ns o os e a conical t g , y p tai ; pp it , I — “ — r one hundred and fif ard de 1 hill ri ve , ty y s Wi no appearance of cultivation. A ri dge of mono ns runnm at r h an les to ther1ver erm na es tai , g ig t g , t i t

at the s hore .

l t At i a small ra 1d r1ver, em n into h e i , p_ ptyi g

» dal ena - dro e the cham an w h ol ence to Mag , v p it vi

' bl ff o os e It re mred the u mos ex " w ards a u , pp it . q t t ertions of th e eight paddl es to prevent our gomg n his con c th e de of the ‘ canoe w as as h ore . I t fli t, si d to the curren an d th e s ern dr en foremost turne t, t iv ; f r s n th e ra d th e ch am down th e s tream. A te pa s i g pi , ’“ os1 on pan w as e asily turned to its proper p ti .

' ow ned b , some At 2 M . l a ded at a hous e , P . n y fish ermen fe n11d the eo l e e m l o ed 1n c r n ; / p p p y ui g

r n resembl n our, ca fis h and d yi g a s potted fish , i g t , A MA GD LENA .

Sl un our ha and four or five feet l ong. g mmocks

under s ome rees on the ban of the r er a « t , k iv , nd en o ed a fine bree e rocured s ome fine ine a l es j y z p p pp , ua as and cocoa nu s d ned and ot on g v , t ; i , g board at

1 4 . 5 ass ed a s mall sl and came i n s 1 h 3 At , p i g t Of another ridge of mountai ns tel ml natingat th e river bo h s hores co ered w th wood no cul i a io t v i ; t v t n. A t

—h a s and bank high rocky clifts turn the river

to th e we s nearl at r i h an l es . ine ros e , t, y g t g F p p ct o ened— coun r of li l e el e a ion bounded p t y tt v t , by

l- mountains in the dis tance- at5 1, anoth er s and bank ' - s aw th e firs h e a l o i t t g, n he s um S hor l af er ctio o h t y t , n n t e borders of a small cree on a roachin he l un ed on ? k ; pp g, t y p g , e

a er th e o her un er th e a er. ft t , d w t A lth ougi1 th es e mammoth reptil es arecalled gene l hrou h th e coun r ca mans or alli ral y t g t y, y gators, the in fO nd th1s r1ve1 as al s o i n th e O k d p in , rinoco and its tr botaries 1s th e rue crocodil e s m l a i , t , i i r to th at

Of th e Nil e . O ne found b M . on l and o y B p , n the h ores of th e A ure eas ul ed tw e s p , m

‘ len h . h ose of th Ma dalena w ich w e s a gt T e g , w,

se mbl e a h u e lizard g . T oOk ' our s a ion on th e to of the ch t t p ampan, to s ee hese mons ers and e n o th e sce e t t , j y n ry . A t 6 as sed fine cl eared s abou a mile s a e , p a pot, t qu r ; l of fores s encl ose it on the s ide an ea ty t s, d r r ; i n fron a w all abou ten fee hi 1 is es ma t, t t gh, m small sl o e from th e ri er resen in th e a earan of p v , p t g pp ce

' ‘ and im ense u s is a eau a i n m q ay. T hi b tiful situ t o O TE S O N C O LO M N BIA .

— f al m. A t6 a s mall sl or a f 1 , i and high mountains

’ n t e r h ban cl ear of d a h o h ig t k, w oo . G t ered some beans from rees overhan l n the wa er w h ch ere t g g t , i w abou four een 1nche l on con a nin n - t t t s g, t i g twe ty wo blac s eeds co ered w h a co o - l e b a e k , v it tt n ik su st nc ,

‘ ‘ a s e Me e - a s ura ed h w e uice . t th a l boa at t .wit t j m i t, ver s mall canoe ro ell e b t o me h ad y , p p d y w n wit p dl es a h rd steerl n . At s o ed for the n h , t i , g 7 1 , t pp ig t, at a h ut on th e r h ban af er h av na i a ed , ig t k , t mg v g t

but six hours .

ri 18th made uncomfo a l e b .dp l . After a night rt b y h ea and moschetOs w e e mbar ed 11 1 6 i n a dense t , _ k 5, fog ; pas s ed an isl and about h alf a mil e l ong ; one el be n fil ed h u e ree s— a ooded ch ann i g l with g t fl , w nd h alf a l on r er s ome mes ells to i sl a , mi e l g ; iv ti s le l n w t the s mall ll a e G d h . A uarumo a mi i t , vi g , f f een or en h u s bu l m a ro e f coco o fi t tw ty t , i t g v O rees on the r h ban o os e an sl and two t , ig t k, pp it i , , t it i a all s a il es l on a l o er e rem s m l nd . m g ; s w xt ty, i t a ua er before n ne ste ed at s ome h ouses A q rt i , pp on th l eft a k f e1 brea as n s ar ed at 10 e b n . A t kf ti g, t t 5, t 12 a bea ful ar sl and crowned w h a a i , uti circul i , it

f T he r Of th e r er about r ei htf tuft o trees . s h o es iv g , f fee h h covered w h a s ron row h of imber. t ig , it t g g t t A t a s mall ‘ river one h undred ard s w de , y i , — d blac form n on the right bank water cl ear an k, i g dal ena wh h is a contras t with th at of th e Mag , ic er m dd — 12 assed uena is a a s mall v y u y g p B v t , ha ch ed ll a e of wel ve ouses and a church in t t vi g , t h , a cl ear s o of abou e h acres on the l ef ban . p t, t ig t , t k 0 11 the ri h an i sl and one m le and a halflon g t, , i , g

or ms ON‘ c om m 256 n e nt .

unt of the h ea and th e llanous c m o acco t, vi o p unds, ' ’ h al ed in e er ar e of co b na o b t ex v y v i ty m i ti n, y he

‘ a enc Of a er cal s un we co er d our en n o g y . v ti ; nv te t t i t n awn n and con r ed t s r ch on t e to a i g, t iv o t et it h p Of a Ha n no a h el er the ch amp n. vi g w s t from the di r o the sun w e h ad a fine o or uni rect ays f , pp t ty, e a ed s ua on Of a mirl th e scener t an el v t it ti , d ng y, h the advantage of a free circulation of air 1 land on the le f ba one an s m l e l n . At 5 . O 1 , i t nk, i g

' ud and dis a reeabl e roar not unli “ Hear a l o g , ke that

' ‘ th e on s a d o be r duced b a s ecies o of li , i t p o y p f

’ he ex raord nar o r f red monkeys . T t i y p we s O voice e a mal s are a r bu ed b th e of the s ni , tt i t y Baron C u to a l ar e u ural cavi w th wh ch he via , g g tt ty, i i t y a re provided . e ri er s well s to a rea w dth the s a A t5 5, th v g t i i l nds are so numerous th at itis impos sibl e toparticularl ze A t s o ed for the n h at th e ll a e them. 7, t pp ig t, vi g M L A AGD A EN . £257 i nterior rested upon his w ri nkl ed brow ; but his

“ manner of erform n h s offic al act be ars de~ p i g t i i , gg scr He comme c i in ar at iption. n ed by w r t g N e the bo om of th e s h ee h en urnin o er con nued tt t, t t g v ti , A b1 19 de 1823 Pase el Comte Granada add n a our sh wh ch if a i g fl i , i , it were possibl e to h ve ‘ en ra ed w oul d ass r dl it g v , u e y gai n th e prize ofiered b the ban of y k Engl and . Mos t of the i nhabitants are bl acks or casts ; th e Al cal e bein d a man of .col ou . is s me h en g r H co tu , w I s aw him s ettling a dis pute betw een tw o women in th e s ree consis e of a a r of an al s ro s er t t, t d p i s d , t w s, and shir w h a red s as h tied around his w a s t, it _ i t, th e ba on of ofiice in h is h a nd . T h e bo s re o t y , p vi usly to en erin th e school house nel down atth do t g , k t e or, e ea h e r ra ers to the mas r he to r p t t i p y te . T se urchins

‘ o all col ours h ut Were u forml d were f , ni y ressed in n al oons w h a Madras h and er hief ed o pa t , it k c ti ver o lders l e a s a l in l ace of a sh r the sh u , ik h w , p i t . — There is a l owisl and oppos ite Nare th e river a mil upwards of e wide .

fl ril 1 th . A t noon ush ed off af er dl n p 9 p , t i i g e san e ar of the da T h e wh ol e away the pl a t s t p t y . ll oc ed to t e ban a d wi h l oud 0 1ces vi age fl k h k, n t v and much es cul ation oo l eave of the crew wh g ti , t k , o ' ’ ch anted th e boatman s s ong with l ucreased vigour; T he patron and pil ot exch anged farewell s with h ose sh o ma n use of all the smar and t on re, ki g t Hdies 00 witty sayings they w ere masters of. . 33 NOTE S ON C O LO M 258 BI A .

dre it dies com adr e d dies hombre w h a l ena ma , p , , it p in erl ar n of oa hs were band ed bac ard tiful t di g t , i kw

’

and forward ll w e h ad ot out of h ear n . Jus t , ti g i g

" el ow the town , the r er N are ows n o the Ma b , iv fl i t g ' o o h r w de dal ena ; it i s ab ut ne und ed yards i . e e s e s1ze of th e l an a ns hich l ned T h imm n p t i , w i

h e to of the cham an a rac ed m a en on. The t p p , tt t y tt ti cl us ters are p urch as ed along th e s hores of the upper a ena f r a medio real s ix a d a uar er Magd l o , ( n q t

tT h e ord nar s ize bunch es ad h r - four cents . ) i y d h t i ty pl antains on the m ; but upon th e l arges t th ere w ere ain w as from ten to tw elve

uches l on a nd from s ix to e i h in Ci rcumferen e. l g, g t c man ma s ubs s u on two a da s o h a at the A y i t p y ; t t, abo e ra e exis ence could be u o v t , t s pp rted in this

coun r a t a d ail ex e ns e , of abou h ee mi t y, y p t t r ll s . , Few h6Wever if an are re duced to s o l ow a d , , y, iet . T h e l an ain is the - ubs u e for bread it p t s tit t , may be

e n ei her raw . or bo led or fr e eat t i , i d in l ard ; with l a e it forms an exc ellen m al ch oco t t e . A e abl e call ed ucca is a l s o ex remel h ea I v get y t y c p and nutritive ; fifty pounds cos t but six and a fourth l e 15 excel n l n sou . cents . It t p A t as s ed a s ra called La An os ura p t it g t , abou four h undred ards w de curren er ra t y i ; t v y pid,

- . m th e ban s hi h A t 45. 30 s o ed at S i ranc sco k g , t pp F i

de Guara a a a ne ro vill a e of wel e hu s . Th e p t , g g t v t wh ol e s pace of ground cl eared for the use of the

’ ll a e does not acres 1m t vi g , exceed four ; media ely e ond his ed wil b is th e unrecl aim derness . h s y t , T i applies to all the towns and villages on th e Mag

60 OT E S O N C OLO M Q N BI A . th e O ens a er s mall ri er on the same s dem p , v y v , , i n e of mou t a ra g ntains in h e distance . T he Wh ol e of h s da re l Met th e t i y ext me y h ot. ma l boa f o l ar e c n al raw h at i t or B gota . A g o ic s t compl eted the costume of the men e mpl oyed in a dl n a oe T he e s re f t e d p d i g this c n . xpo u o h nake

’ b o a e l d to . r ca s un to s a s of n s d y v ti , w rm i sect , an the exh al a ons of unbounded mars es h i h ti h , c oked w t the ran es e e a on and under hes e ol r um~ k t v g t ti ; , t o s anc s to un er o for en - four or h r - six t e , d g tw ty , t i ty h ours , the excessive bodily exertion of p ropelling ra id cur s h a r a bo a s . a r ws in e at ag in t p ent, e , v y s r n oin of View the h a cons u on of t iki g p t , ppy tit ti man w ch h us ada s self to or fortifies sel f , hi t pt it , it a a n m res s ons h a o h erw s e w uld inevita g i s t i p i , t t t i o fa al bly prove t .

‘ as sed to- da e1 h teen l ar e and fort - four W e p y, g g , y

' m ll sl ands nl two h ouses and not a s in l e s a i , ; o y , , g h am an th e coun r but l l e el e a ed and co c p ; , t y itt v t ,

d w w ood . At(i s te ed o a s mall sand v ette ith i , pp n y i sl and for - the nl ght, and went to sl eep under our tent on the roof of th e canoe ere s ar l e from o r sl ee b d fl p r il 2i st. W t t d u p y vivi h nin and before th e tentcould be s ruc and th e lig t g, t k, bedclo he s c rri d bel ow w e were com mats and t a e , "

M . set t5 A . 0 11 pl etely drench ed with rain. A in— at a mall r1ve1 on th e r h ban in th e ra 9, s ig t k

2 a s mall r er on th e l eft call ed m ar. 1 5, iv , Si it

T e w in we h eard th e d sa » h e whol of this mo g, i e o S aw greeabl e h owli ng of th e l arg m nkeys . us n aro uitos or small numero flock s Of ch atteri g p q , M L A GD A E N A . 26 t

arro s some en u ns and ano her a ua c b r p t , p g i , t q ti i d,

- resembl n a crane. At arr1ved at S a abl o i g n P , a village of flirty- rude h uts ; within twenty yards of the s rts of th e lla e the fores r ki vi g , t emai ns as nature formed it— not th e l east sign of cul tivation T he i nhabitants live principally on a kind of l arge

ca fis h l e ha foun i the M s si ssi i . t , ik t t d n i pp

- eft S an ab o at 41 th e wea h er cl ar. A t 6 L P l 5, t e ,

‘ s o ed for th e ni h at a s and - ar el e a e b t pp g t b , v t d ut a

. e o e few inches abov e th e 1ev l f th e wat r . Imme l diatel on l andin , fires w ere ind ed for coo n y ‘ g k ki g,

t ' ts e e i ch e d u o th s and he ten w r p t p n e and . W e

“ made of bou h s w hich w ere oc found two huts g , cu 1 ie b fish ermen wh o ma e a em orar ! re51 p d y , k t p y

e n e of the bar dur n th e fish n s eason. d c , i g i g T he beau of he h ard s and th e di i nu e z ty t , m tiv si e a nd l l e el e a on of the bar th e fires h uts and itt v ti , , , ,

“ en s th e rou s of h al f na ed nd a s th e clea t t , g p k I i n , r moon- l i ht and deli h fu seren of th e ai r con . g , g t l ity , spired to render th e s cene, as w e enj oyed it from

' o of th h an under ‘ o r r e th e ro f e c amp , u g e n/mos ’ an ‘ e ch eto nets, extremely s triking d agre abl e . I w as much pl eased ' at witnes si ng the h armony and affec on s ubsis n amon th crew and he r do ti ti g g e , t i g d l O ur l i tl e s ocie mus no h umoured p ayfulness . t ty t w h a e amoun ed to r h an wen nd ans N e v t mo e t t ty, I i , roes and Z ambosi T h e l a er are a fine race f g , tt o " men e are not s o robu as the nd ans ut ; th y st I i , b h a e more mi d n b ac bo h of n a d od . v tivity, t y

In order to es h e1r s ren h and a l m?» t t t t gt gi ity, I duced hem to u b se the exam l e but t j mp, y tting p ; TES O N CO LO M 262 NO BI A .

did not excel . at h s exerc se mos b they t i i , t pro ably n of ra ce M ba h in t e e en n a for w a t p cti . y t h v i g w s r endered uncomfor able ow n t the ex re me tur ~ t , i g o t bidnes s Of the w a er an a fear he ans t , d Of t caym , wh ch are s een cons an l on he s s t r er i t t y t h ore of h e iv ,

he i a - b - e t sl nds and s and ars . W e met to da hr e , , t y I ch am ans as sed four s ol a ed h ous es and e h p , p i t , ig t

‘ l ar er and we - fiv s mall er a h e ban s g t nty e isl nds . T k s ll l o s ub e to inunda on an co ered w h ti w, j ct ti , d v it wood

' r Sl e well l as ni h in t e o en .Hp il 22d. pt t g t h p t e his mornin wi h a mos dis res s air, bu aw ok t g t t t n the crown o the head wh ch con inued l ug pain o f , i t a h s a ribu ed to the i n ense al mos t all d y . T i I tt t t s un u on m h ead but im e1 fectl h eat Of th e p y , p y d d b an unlined s raw h at and th e ar al s hiel e , y t ; p ti ba h ad a en the reced n e enin w hou th, I t k p i g v g, it t h ead ow n to ehensm Of the w etting my , i g my appr n an caym s . o l S hor l mbar ed 1115 ; A . M . cl oud and c o E k , y t y, er w ere h a l ed b a ma n from the s h ore wh o aft , i y , d w e her we ere a in obacco to MO i nquire , h t w t k g t ‘ A l l e bel ow saw th e C ol ombian fla dis ral es . itt , g

” NO TE S O N C OLO M A . 2641 . BI

' the h h no es of the u e an h that of ig t fl t , d mig t under oth er Ci rcums tances h ave been mis taken for that i n d f e s a We r d o n rea ll n h . s trument . i t d w t m ig t

f .d r il 24th; Af er a rain n h we came in s h p t y ig t, ig t

‘ f Mo m os nearl in the mornin and ere boarded o p y g, w

" a l ar canOe 1nounti two or ree' s el s by ge , ng th wiv e our ass or s and e all e to r exhibit d p p t , wer ow d p o

oecd . A few m nu es after a s mall anoe l ade i t , c n h fish fru s and dul ce h a some w omen w it , it , s, ving

‘ rd ame al on s de to trafli h e r rOV1s 1ons on boa , c g i , c t i p f r h e s al commercial exch an for tobacco . A te t ir m l ges ed ne of ano h er ind s ucceeded w ere effect , o t k , con ’ s is n of boatmen s witand ood h umoured railer ti g g y, h con nued ll e ere out of h ear whic ti ti w w ing. ° ’ om os l n nor h l a ude and ° M p , 9 19 t tit , 2 ’ e l on i ude from W as h on i d h t ast g t i ngt , dign fie wit he e Of c is bu l on th e l ef ban a nam ity, i t t k, immedi tely er Th e w all w h ch runs al o th e fr on the riv . i ng ont ee is bu l 111the a er of excellen masonr s h t, i t W t , t y, about twel v e feet high its top handsomely finished

h a co l . Fr the ri er off wit p ng Of hewn stone . Om v , — s wall has th e a e r of b r ex ends thi pp a ance a atte y . It t n nearl th e f o th e o n bou al o g y wh ol e r m Of t w , a t

' h alf a m l e form n a del h ful wal k. The h ouses i , i g ig t , re w ell bu l as efull a ed and have a Ver a i t, t t y p int , y a co f O ne of th cl ean nd m ortable appearance . e ‘ ch urches frou s the r r m its l l e s uare t ive , h av g itt q ex end to th e a e t ing w t r wall . W h en the r1 er is full the fron s ree is covered v , t t t w h abou two fee Of w a er Th e resen h e h it t t t , p t ig t of th e street above the river is about ten feet; there ' fl L MA GD A ENA . 26 5

are c n n en s on s a to its s rfa o ve i t t e teps l e ding u ce . hese s e s are con nuall cro ed b i l s ac T t p ti y wd y g r , e h h a n an ear hen ase on he bedd s ho lder or vi g t v r , u , hi t rocure w a er for d mes c ses h es e p, o p t o ti u . T groups h ave Often remi nded me Of s ome scriptural

eces re res en in a simil ar scene . s eems as pi , p t g It if th e ancien ress and the er s h a e of the a e t d , v y p v s , h ad b o a e r a een retai ned . It w uld ppear s trang fo n antiq uary to s eek for model s Of antiquity in this new country ; yet s o little ch ange h as taken pl ace sin its r s e l men h a man articl es and ce fi s t tt e t, t t y cus toms i ntroduced from S pai n three/hundred years ‘ o e th li h es m a o h a e not under n e s difica ion. g , v g g t t o t Th e h ous es in particul ar are evidently Of 'Mooris h cons truction T he depth of the town is about two h undred and

‘ T he h ous es w ould hear a fa ourabl e fifty yards . v

o of a as Man ref , comparison with th s e C rac . y a ur ni i h ree ene an bl nds which afford a s hed w t g n V ti i , T ard pl easing contras t to the white w all s . h e g ens ar an d h fi all al ms and bea iful l an e pl te wit ne t p , ut p )

w as nfor th e . l a e con a ned we tains . I i med p c t i t lve or o r een ch urc a number u e d1s ro or~ f u t hes, q it p p

‘ t o its e mmed a el ad oin n the i ned to s iz . I i t y j i g

ncl os ures Of the re r ho s es of, this com actl e a u , p y bu l ow n ou find a h c e in re is e the s ame i t t , y t i k t p c ly s a e as th e firs se l e s b is ed h ms elf t t , wh en t tt r e ta l h i . R emain d at o os th 5 A hous e on the e M mp e 2 th . l evee w as Offered to us ; but not liking it, w e ac t e e e cep ed that assigned us by the Alcalde . Pr s nt d our l ers to th n s ra t e c and ett e admi i t tor of h ustoms, ’

' £266 NO rns O N CO LOMBIA .

from him w h Offers of received every pol iteness , it s ervice ’ 26 h O n embar n to- da atnoon found .flp rzl t . ki g y , ’ ' f as sen er and a en on we h ad l eft our ell ow p g s, t k a d h er s n wh o w ere o n to board a l ady n o , g i g a a W e reco n sed in our new as sen er C arth gen . g i p g , th e person wh o h ad made an Offer Of th e h ouse . d a ea under our en or awn n on S h e accepte s t t t, i g, f th e ch am an an be u l ed the me b th e top O p , d g i ti y i S he made 1n u1r1es h er tal ent for conv ers at on. q

‘ ers ons w e h ad nown and recen l seen 111 after p k , t y o o a and rel a e d man anecdo es Of h em and B g t , t y t t ,

’ he h ad a en ‘ in the re ol u n A f th e parts t y t k v tio . ter ‘

» the fros t Of ceremony t h ad mel ted away, s he men i rea ood h umour ha tioned w th g t g , t t our C reol e er an to w h om s h e h ad addressed h erself o s v t, , n r l and n h ad endea oured to as s h mself u ou i g, v p i pon rh A meri can and ers s a ? h er as a No t , p i ted in ns wer “ ” ’ ” , es and don unders and to l ing y , I t t , a l h er

inquiries . ’ This l ady ~ h ad been married just before th e revoa l ution at the a e Of h r een h rou h the n ue , g t i t , t g i fl nce and a hori Of her aren s an mu amst ut ty p t , d ch ag h er Ow n inclinati on ; as sh e was unwilling to l eave

s ch ool and s urrender h er bab - h ous e d oll s , y , , and h ld sh l a s for the d n fied demeanour and th e c i i p y , ig i , ie S he ex the re a dut s Of a wife . pl ained p cipit tion of h er aren s b s a i n ha w as cons dered an p t y y g, t t it i 1 h onour to form an alliance with a native Of Old S ain a hech ance Of h er el ec n p ; nd that to avoid t . ti g

' Ameri c a d wh ch uld s a an an for a h us b n , i wo have di

S68 O TE S O N C O LOM A N BI .

O l an horns mov1n In e er d rec o e» t g v y i ti n. We con t nned our downwa d course all n h be n r i r ig t, i g Car ied t by the current . Al hough it was cool wh en we re ire d to 11 es t beca e s o t , it m o ppressively but during th e n h h a w s m oss bl e to ig t, t t it a i p i sl eep ’ fl przl 27th ; W as s tartled out of my sl eep this morn n b the s n of s ome animal n takm off i g, y ti g ; o g

‘ ' m ac e to d sco er the a sa lan r e ed ah y j k t i v s i t, I ec iv o h er unc ure i n the ‘ r found to be a s oor t p t a m. I it ion abou f ur in h es l on T h e two m nu e o c . p , t g [ i t punctures were s carcely dis cernibl e ; but around ' each the inflammation ex tended s o ra idl h a its , p y, t t co c l a efore progres s ul d be dis ti n ty m rked . B I l rocure a lime he u ce Of h ch is cons er cou d p , t j i w i id e the bes remed th e discol ora on h ad ex e nded d t y, ti t h ad ssoc a d the idea over th e w hol e arm. A s I a i te

' h r h th e n of h ese re les I a a of orro wit s ti g t pti , w s good deal al armed ; but I s oon found th at scorpions n T e in o w ere only terribl e i poetry . h c nvenience ab was very i nconsider l e . t S assed S an rano a s mall h a ch ed ll a e A i , p B , t t vi g

i a bl uff o n on th e lef ban . A t a bu lt on p i t, t k 9 i ,

me i l a e call e l a a on the s a e s ide . h andso v l g d P t , m t as sed ener ffe a own ar l m rui ns A p T i , t p t y , n the r h ban — S a ll a e Of s e en een h u s o ig t k i , vi g v t t , n l eft ban — 5 a i ll a e of e h h uts on the o k i , v g ig t , l ight .

T he c un r to- da l ow rees al on sth e ban o t y y ; t g k, ut no es more b fores ts ; detached h ous numerous . T he S ierra de S arita - Marta Covered with s now l n th e d s ance . T h e read h ofthe r er e l a i i t b t iv , s1nc e v ng MA GD A LEN A . 269

Mom os does notvar much from a m le— sl ands p , y i i

l ess numerous .

M arr ed at Barancas the erm na A t . . 9 i , P iv , t i and unco for abl e na a tion of our tedious m t vig tion. his w as th el e en h da from our l ea n onda T e v t y vi g H , the h d Of na a on and the wen - s econd from ea vig ti , t ty o a But a e h ad been de ained one da in B got . s w t y Gua as s n o e in Mom os and had du , ix in Ho da, n p , take n four days in the j ourney from Bogota to ‘

' onda whi a be co venl entl erformed in H , ch c n n y p hree it res ul s h a the wh ol e rou e from the ca t ; t , t t t pi tal to Bara cas a e as il be made in thirteen n , m y y s T he dis ance from th e l a er l ace b l and day . t tt p y to C ar h a ena is wen - hree l ea ues wh ch r t g t ty t g , i e

u res two da s more in all fif een da s . All o in q i y , t y w g th e s ame l ength Of time for the navigation to the U ni ed S a f C ar h a ena w e s h ould re t t tes rom t g , ceive ad ces fro the ca al Of C olomb a e e b vi m pit i , v n y th e resen ard modes Of communica on in thir t p t t y ti , y da s y . But wh en the ad to a , ro Honda sh ll have been m ro ed h a is ma a c i h i p v , t t d tance y be c ompl s ed in

n da S eam- b ll r B an a o e y . t oats wi each ar c s in four da s and on the s h th e ra ell er ma arr e at y ; ixt , t v y iv a a en A ea 1 at o te a to t C rth g a . s t m nav g i n Of n d ys he U n ed S a es w ll br n s ad ces from o o a it t t , i i g u vi B g t in s ix te n da s e y . W e l auded from our ch ampan atBarancas about ’ 10 O cl oc on a fine i h — k, moonl g t night the tempee ra ure of th e air e f W e w ere de a n om t d light ul . t i ed s e

cons derabl e e th a a ba ~ i tim in e pl z , sitting upon our g ON C OLOM NOTES BI A .

a e and surround ed b the c ew whohad brou g g , y r , ght ur effec s from the boa wa n for the a r a o t t, iti g r iv l of

th e Al cal de. A h ouse had been assI ned us but g , it w as uno cu ed and th e ke co d c pi , y ul not be found . ’ l A t len h th e Al cal de s a earance utus m os - gt , pp p p r ’ e si r l In a w n b s s on of ou odgi ng. fe mi utes our am moc s a l uxur we h ad noten ed for some ime k , ( y j oy t ,) were s us en ed fr the raf er T heAl calde ro p d om t s . p

‘ mis ed to ro de - mul es or h orses at sunr se wh ch p vi i , i , ’ h hese en l eme is e val e to abou 10 wit t g t n, qui nt t “ ’ o cl oc and af er a deli h ful ba re red to k ; , t g t th, I ti my h ammock with a better prospect of enj oying a comfortabl e sl eep th an h ad been afforded me for a

2 2 O TE S ON com me n 7 N t .

l ar e s ace formed b the ch of the roof g p y pit , for the o circul ati n of air.

" Th e road is le vel and n s h rou h , , wi d t g a forest of l ar e and beau ful co on- wood rees g ti tt t . Th e vines bearin the v an lla bean w ere o n ed out o g i p i t t us .

fi ril 2 th . ef A ma is at A t h alf a ea ue p 9 L t t , l g f om the own forded a cree ) on a h r t , k ; re c ing th e op osite s de a demand of one real for ea h ul p i , c m e, A s his de mand of o for w as made . t t ll perm1s s1on to ford a ri er a eared s omewh a unreasonabl e be v , pp t , I sitated to comply till the mul e conductor and our u on 1nformed me ha was an es abl s h e compa l , t t it t i d C a a ena for th e u e re enue of r h , r ose of e p n v t g p p r k i g a water communication from Barancas to that city

o en b means of the ca nal we w ere h en cross n . p , y t i g ar ha en is not at th e embo r A s C t g a. uch u e of the

a dal ena his ommun ca on w ll at no s a ‘ M g , t c i ti , i , di t nt a be rende ed rac cable for boa s h ch d y, r p ti t , w i will s ave the twenty - th ree l eagues l and carriage from n as to th e The round is er fa our Bara c city . g v y v able a few housand oll ars b foll ow n the c urse ; t d , y i g o

h ch na ureh a a e w ould com l e th e wor . w i t s tr c d, p te k

t O n ma n n u r es af erwards at C ar ha ena ki g i q i i t , t g , I unders tood th at a navigabl e canal h ad formerly exis ted be tw een that city and the Magdal ena; th ough for ma ears it h as ceas ed to be us eful for wan ny y , t h of th e neces sary attention to its repair . T is work ' 1s s aid to have been found by th e ea1 liest E uropean e l ers b t th e nd ans or some s tt , and 15 attri uted o I i , ormel oc f cupants of the soil . l - ea ues At 12 5 entered the vill age A hone six l g , TU RB A CO .

3 — ai mat 2 arr ed in th e ram at urbaco r wo 5 , iv , T t

e he ni h . l eagues further, wh ere We s topp d for t g t , W hil e s eeking sh elter under th e porch of an unoc cu ied house ll t e Al cal de coul d be found w e p , ti h , received a polite invitation, to occupy an excell ent

mansion bel n n to a en l e man of C ar h e na . , o gi g g t t ag W e found e uar er excell ent an th e h ouse th es q t s y d

ee er er a en e to ou comfor . k p v y tt tiv , r t his ow n th e s u t eat f the w e l h ih T t , mmer r e r o a t y h ab an s of C ar h a ena is l e ra ed f r its h eal h it t t g , ce b t o t ‘ ful and l eas an clima e it e atl on abo e he s ea p t t ; s el v v t , b 000 fee IS a out 1 t . A mil e to the e as of urbaco are situated s mall t T ; / mounds from w h ch wa er and air are d s ch ar ed , i t i g , called los calcancitos ; A ccording to the Indian tra

d on hese ounds formerl a e out ames « b t iti , t m y g v fl , u er ed th e efficac of were conv t , by y some h oly water rin l ed on the m b a l ous r1es in o c sp k , y p p t, to v l anes e h de a ua . he consis of teen or en cones g T y t ig tw ty , abou wen fee h h h a n an o e n n at the t t ty t ig , vi g p i g ex fill ed w h a er from h ch a otc a ap , it w t , w i z i g s is

’ a ed w h C ra le o e at e dis ch rg it onside b n 1s , int rval s of

”

h alf a m nu e. i t p Durin the earl fthere ol o h g y part o v uti n, t is town was des troyed by the orders of th e patriot General

as ll o h ose l a of efence as to c ea » C ti , w p n d w r te a de

s er around his os . W h l e bl oc aded n th e c t p t i k i ity,

‘ ol ar was sen b th e con ress with ome B iv t y g , s troops p to rel eve he l ace and ass ume th e comman i t p , d . C as llo refused to ac nowl ed e his au hori o r ti , k g t ty, recei e hi t u t v min o the city ; pon which, he President ! NO TE S ON C O LO M BI A .

! w h c aracter s c d s n eres ednes s l aced his , it h i ti i i t t , p ’ s at C a ll s d s o al an barked for th e troop sti o i p s , d e m

- l ands to rocu e s u l es of arms and muni ons . Is , p y pp i ti C ar ha ena af er u der o n all th e orrors of a t g , t n g i g h s 1e e and bombard rren e e at discretien g ment . s u d r d , and its ill fated commander was executed by th e S an a s p i rd . r 4 s o fl ril 3 0th . ef u ba t M . and p L t T co a , A . t p ped a t a h ouse a littl e w ithout th e w all s of Garth a

‘ — f our a A . a ere l e en at 8 . M four l e ues . we g , , g H t idin mul e and rocured a cales a a cl ums ve r g s, p , y ra wn b one h ors e to ma e our en ra hicl e d y , k t nce

t e own . T he drl ver a l ar e ne ro s rad l 1nto h t , g g , t d ed " is d m nu e on and m a few minu es brou h i i tiv p y, t , gh t h e r s den of W ll a R b so s to t e ce m D. o n n E us i i i i , q. wh o h ad given us a polite invitation to remain with

imd ur n our a in C ar h a ena . h , i g st y t g W e were de a ned l n h s c t w a n for a t i t i i y, iti g ' s el ll th e th of June mharke d on , ti 7 , wh en we e board a small sch ooner of ons and af er ni nety t , t a un l easan assa e arr ed l n e Yor on th e n p t p g , iv N w k fi J l th of uly .

e ul ‘B o é R capit ation of Distances and Stag es from bg t .

18923 . A ril 6 . To Facatativa p ,

7 . Vill eta

Guaduas

Honda

C arried over

NOTE S O N C OLOMBIA

in 1 3 rece ed a se ere ch ec n an a ack worth, 7 9, iv v k , i tt \

e b S mo l et at h h h a w r er a ssis ed . describ d y l , w ic t t it t Three thous and A mericans accompanied this expe iti nu re ous to is C r ha e a h a been il d o P vi th , a t g n d p l a e b Si r ranc Dra e and in 1 5 b th e g d y F i s k , 97, y

rench nder M . de n s and th e uccaneers . F u P oi ti , B

A m le . from the ca l e is th e h e h call ed La i st ig t ,

P a a from its res embl ance to th e s ern of a s h . p , t ip his h a summi T hill s a ch urch perch e d upon its t,

‘ th res de nce of a miracul ous l d fo merl a l ed e i _ a y, r y pp i

‘ to upon all dis tres s mg occas ions ; from the ruinous condi ion of her ma sion one w oul d be incl ned to t n , i ‘

s u os e ha s h e h ad row nf in o d sre u e . h s pp , t t g t i p t T i e l a e min nce 1s a s o crow ned w ith a b ttery .

s T he ra m ar s of th ar. w ork whl ch en p t e irregul , , com ass es the tow n have h eir founda on on the p , t ti s

s ea - beach secured in t e s ex os d l aces b , h mo t p e p y an exce l en brea a er o er wh ch t e s urf das hes l t kw t , v i , h a “ ” t s ome eriods with much iol ence . T he w all s ‘ p j , ” v abou four een fee hi h are c ons ruc ed of ex e t t t g , t t c l

l en s o e i th e mos d T h e t t n , n t urabl e manner . e bas

t ons and demi bas ons are ca acmus thex urta i ti p , c ins w ell an ed and the ho e w oi k 1 r s led i fl k , w l s b i t w th nume1 ous eces of beau ful bronze a l e pi ti rtil ry, prin ’ ’ ci all e h ee n s and w en - four s a nd s ome fi p y ig t t ty , ne e h and ten inch m o o me a ig t rtars f the s ame t l . The

l a f rms are of ebbl es a en from the s ea s h o p t o p t k re, e mbedd d m cemen and s oo hl l as ered e t, m t y p t . A wet di ch in t e re r fill e b t e s ea cu s o t t , h a , d y h , t ff, he c fro m the ma n T e ase ma e a e n ity i l and . h c t s r umera ous and ca ac o s O ne in ar cul ar c a abl p i u . p ti , p e of A E‘ A C A RT H G N ,

' conta n n one hous and men h as a yer ' fine a i i g t , y p ’ e arance its fron l oo s n o One f the s treets and p t k i t e ‘ , is o e for - ne s ne arch s rnam nted with ty o to e . T e o osin the arr s n ofC ar h a ena h tro ps comp g g i o t g ,,

- . are a d . o e fine onfiscated h ous es and qu rtere in s m c , f ' at t a h e ari us uards a he different g tes . T v o g re march th rand arade in the l a a ed off from e g p p z ,

‘ ’ w h much o and circumstance to the mus c" of it p mp , i

‘ h e e mn h s band l a an x a . I t v s e cell ent b nd n e g, t i p y

' i the a efore tattoo fo the amu ement n pl za b , r s of the citizens: This city is s aid to resembl e those of th e Penm s ul a T h e s ree s are narrow and s omew ha i . t t , t r re ul ar th e h ouses hi h er h an an I ha e ee g , g t y v s n

' in C ol ombia al h ou h but of two s ories . Man , t g , t y

are ro ided h l ook- ou s erec ed On th . p v wit t , t e roof

' o s or h s uare owers w h ch fford an e e t p , wit q t , i a xt n S ome of t e s e s ive V iew of th e s ea . h tre ts are S6 narrowfth at it woul d not be difficul t to j ump from On O o e It is not n o e bal cony to th at pp sit . u c mmon

' to s ee ba e s ros s in th e s ree s us ended fro sk t c g t t, p m a cord s e che ween the h ous es of two frie ds , tr t d bet n , ho h in hi a es ablis hed a so of os b w ave t s w y t rt p t, y Wh ch to communica e the os s i of th e d a , i t g p y A boutone - eigh th of the h ous es of the city are un a occu ied or are in ru n s and half p f th e s uburb p , i , , ' encl osed th e de i - l une h as been des ro ed by m , t y . This devastation w as prod uced duringth e s ie ge and o d or e the roa b mbar ment by Morill o . F m rly d to

’ La Popa was lined with beautiful villas thes e were razed b th e ame enera dur1n his o atio y s g l, g per a a n t g i st he town. or ns O N C O LOM N BIA .

ha ena Is one of th e hree s n A i ica Cart g t citie i me , at w hich s ess ions of th e 1nqu1s1tion were formerly

h eld the o her two bein Lima and Mex co. The ; t g‘ i

‘ al ace of h s dreadful tr bunal is a er h andsome p t i , i , v y

s ructure occu l n o e of s uare . t , py g n s ide th e public q

It 18 now a ro r a e d fOr ubl c o s and as a. pp p i t p i ffice , c It is place of onfinement for pris oners of w ar. said to h ave subterranean communications with th e various church es and conv ents of th e town; by me ans ' to of h ch obnoxious er ons o ld c n e ed. w i , p s c u be o v y th e ol offi ce nd inc rcerated Wi h ou its bein H y a e , t t g w ha a becom ' e k no n w t h d e of th m. T h e ch urch opposite poss es s es an el egant s pe c me n of the fine ar s in an ex i scul ured i t , quis tely pt

’ arbl e ul i but is o othe abl e . m p p t, n rW1s e remark h s is th e onl t0 u in Colo b a h a e s T i y w m i , I v vi it ' ’ d in w hich w h eel carria e a e s ed h re are e , g s r u . T e an cl um cal es O ne or o fash onable i s m y sy as . tw i g g , and a coach h ave l ately been introduced by foreign me ; but th ese outl andish v ehicl es are l ocked upon wi h an e l e e b t e n ab a s O x carts are t vi y y h i h it nt .

1 als o use d the Ox e n be n e b th horns . , i g yok d y e S O rea is the o osi n to nno a on ha a g t pp tio i v ti , t t fore i n me rch an wh o m or ed a ‘(i r for the rans g t, i p t ay t ortation of his Ow n oods was erd c ed theuse p g , i nt i t

" ’ of it on the lea ha t o ld d r e the or ers , p t t i w u ep iv p t Of em l o men p y t . O n me ntioni ng one day tha t 1 had been into a ’ urne r s s h o and a be rised to see a man t p, h d en s urp

" turmn a be d os t b « in a ro ar mo on g p , y giv g it t y ti

‘ ’ ‘ Wi h a bow a is ri ht h nd wh l e t nd cord h el d id h g a , i

‘ ' h e d ec e h l ft b is , ir t d the chis el with is e , assisted y h

A P P E N D I X A

Eomm crcia l Re ula tio s o the Re ublic o Colomb a g n f p f i , collected u nder th e i ns tr u ctions of th e S ecreta ry of S ta te ddress ed ll P l i a , a to th e I inis ter en p oten ti ry of th e United S ta tes to th a tRe ublic a nd di es ted r om p , g f ’ th e la s tr ea ties a d d o /ta t G v o w , , n ecrees f t o ernment, n the s b ect o Na v u j f ig a ti on a nd Comm erce.

D TIE S ON MPORTS U I .

The followin ariff or rae of d 1ties c n 1m orted oods g t , t 1 , p g , ff b l is to a e e ec aw On the rs da ofSe ember 182 6 . t k t, y , fi t y pt , Th e l aw divides th e import duties 1ntO four distinct f ll classes in th e o owm manner V IZ . on o ds im or ed , g , g o p t in Colombian essels from h e ni ed S es or E uro e in . v t U t tat p , Col ombian vessels from Colonies m forei n essels from , g v

' th e nited S a es or E urO e and in forel n essels from U t t p , g v

Col onies .

T LE NO 1 A B . .

A rticl e s subject to an ad valo rom t F rem du y .

r ct. er ct. p er ct. pe p

B rass, manufactures of B oots C ordage m C otton, anufactures of Ch an eliers ass d , gl C arria e s of all kin g , ds OT ON O L M N E S C O BIA G

TA LE — No I. C ed . . ontin u B f ,

O T E S O N C OLO M N BI A .

h em af rmin h at th e al ue in th e invoice is t e rue t , fi g t v h t ost th ere of in said ort or lace w h ich oa h mus be c , p p ; t t erti ed b th e Consul V ice Consul or Commercial A ent c fi y , , g of Colombia or if no s uch ofii cer r esides at th e or , p t, h en b th e Co nsul V ice Cdnsul r Comm ercial A en of t y , , o g t

’ som e friendl ow er h avm a rea of commerce w i h the y p , g t ty t Re ubli an if r b i mus be cer c, d, h e e e none such , h en t p t “ t t tified b h ree merch ants of th e or w h ence th e sh i ment y t p t, p

Wh enever any goods are imported not accompanied by th e invoice ' or th e invoice sh all not h ave th e re uis i e s k , q t res cribed above th e oods sh all be al ued at th e current p , g v ’ r ice - in th e ort to w h ich th e are brou h t and on h at p p y g , , t l on th e duties sh all be cal ul t d and oll d r va uati c a e c ecte . F om on are e x e te d ood s f o s th is provi si c p g s aved r m h ipwreck . Th e ow ner a ent or consi nee w h o sh all re cei e oods , g , g , v g from a Foi‘ e i n ort h all imm edi tel o th e arrival of g p , s , a y n th e essel m a in th e i m or a ion resen th e invmce v k g p t t , p t d bill f ladin and m a e oath befor th e ro er offi cer an o g, k e p p of th e Cus oms th at th e i n oi ce a d bill of l adin which t , v n g,

deli ers are th e ori inal s wh ich h e h as receive d. h e v , g If th e A dministrator of th e Customs sh all suspect th at h th e godds have bee n put down in th e m vowe at l ess th an true al ue in th e or wh ence h e w ere ex or ed th e v p t t y p t , h e sh all cause h em to be v al ue d at th e rices w hich the t p _ y ' w ould bear at th e l ace Wh ence e came at the ime of p th y , t x or a ion and if th e val ue th us assessed sh ould excee d e p t t ; , f then ft th e val ue in the invoice by tw e nty per cent. fi y per h all be ut u on th e es imated alue and th e duties cent. s p p t v , d ll b cal cul a ed and coll ected hereon. ro i ed h ow sh a e t t P v , e er w h en th e es imate d v al ue as a o e sh all not exceed v , t b v e n th e es i a ed th e invoi ce value by tw e nty per cent . th t m t val ue sh all be considered th e true v al ue .

” T w o persons are named by th e Preside nt to act as va Wh en er rs in each or wh o sh all notbe merchan s. e lue p t, t v A PPENDIX . th e owner or consignee is dissatisfied w ith th e v alua tion xed b th e v al uers h e ma sel ect tw o merch an s of fi y , y t the l ace w h o sh all roceed w i h th e tw o rs a ain td p , p , t fi t, g examine and alue th e oods and sh all ma e a re ort of v g , k p th eir proceedings to th e Colle ctor ; and if the bw ner or Consi nee be still dissa is ed h e m a a eal to the G0 g t fi , y pp

ernor of th e Province w h os e de ermina ion sh all be nal . v , t t fi Goods saved from shipw re ck sh all be val ued at th e cur~ ren rice at th e ort of ex orta ion and th e same rul es t p , p p t sh all be observe d w h e never any deduction of d uties is l m o oo d r c ai ed n account ofinj ury to th e g ds u ing th e voyage .

TA LE N0 . I B I .

t to s ific i A rticles subjec p ec n O tes o ut rom th e nite ra f d y . F U d State s or Europ e .

B e er in b ottles Oth erwise than i n bot tle s eef sal t B , smok e d Biscuit Co er in ars or ro s pp , b d in sh e ets manufactured Ci er m b ottl e s d , oth erwise than in b ottle s arrob a ish all kin s of s a t F , d l our in arre s of ei h t Fl , b l g arrobas each Gin in ott es or flasks , b l not in flask s Gunpowder Ham s o C OLO 286 nor ms n MBI A .

L - IL C ed . TA BLE No. on tin u

s National ve sels .

A rticle s subje ct to sp ecific ” rates of duty. From th e Unite d tate s or E o e S ur p .

ron i n ars and ot er I b , h forms not m anufacture , d ron manufacture e xce t I d, p th os e ar ticles declare d

Li udrs in ott es d , b l ork s alte P , d smok e d P ow der Rapp e a b ottle ar - ane Spirits from sug c , and i ts c omp oun ds it o ra e s roots Spir s fr m g p , , i s rai n and oth er fru t , g , su stance s in ott e s b , b l t s Do. not in b o tle Salt Snuff a b ottl e ' T all ow unmanufacture , d manufacture d Vine ar in ottl e s ozen g , b d n ot in b ottles Wine Ma eira and Ch am , d patgn Ma e ira not in ottl e s d , b Wine r e d in ott e s , , b l ' not in b ottle s Wine Ma a a Muscate , l g , l, ' and all Wines embrac e d under th e de sc ription of ” V ino eneroso in G , ” b ottles 1 50 dozen Do . not in b ottle s Wih e C anar and all th er , y, o Wine s e mbrac e d und er th e de scription of Vino ’ S eco 2 in ottl e ozen , b s 1 25 d Do. not in b ottl e s 1 00 arroba

T ES ON C OLOM 288 N O BI A .

on which it w as due un il aid. Ifth e du is i th e day , t p ty pa d

' n d ance a discoun is made of one - h alf of one er i a v , t p ” en a mon h c t t . Masters of all vessel s must, at th e moment of entermg the or deli er to th e Officer wh o sh all o on board a p t, v g , signed manifes t of th e number of packages belonging to himself or to merch an s or assen ers w i h heir m ar s , t p g , t t k , and also decl are under oath th at th e manifest contains all th ose which h e receive d on board . Th e Collector is to point out one from each ten in th e n oice wh ich h e sh all cause to be O ened and examined i v , p , and if the goods are not found to correspond w ith th e in oice th e Wh ole sh all be examine d and th e oods al ued v , , g v , r cen um is to be added to th e val ua ion u o and fifty pe t t , p n i are h n to be cal cul If w hich th e dut es t e ated . any goods re found wh ich are not m e n ioned at all in he in oice a t t v , l a a in hi h h e are is forf i th e wh o e p ck ge w c t y e ted. “ ” T e ord col onies in th e law embraces the We h w , , st India Isl ands th e E uro ean ossessions in bo h A mericas , p p t

' and A frica ; th e commerce with A sia being regulated by a '

i erent ro ision. I is unders ood b in uir at the d fi p v t t , y q y cus om h ouse h a Ha i is re arde d as a colon in the t , t t yt g y l provisions of this aw . “ In the l aws of Colombia th e ex ression na ional , p t ” vessel s is used only in contradistinction to foreign ” vessel s , it is not meant to refer to public vessels in the w ay in which th e expression is frequently used in th e t d S a es Uni e t t . uin al 18 one h undred ounds l Colombia e ual to A q t p n , q h undre d and fo r one u m th e United States .

A n arroba is one-four h f n l t o a qui ta . A mar wh en a lied to th e wei h Of silver is ei ht k, pp g t , g ounces or half a o n p u d.

It IS ro ided in the la s h a wh en a eneral de g p v , w , t t, g E A PP NDIX . 289

scription of goods w ould embrace th em at a certain rate of du and under a ar icul ar descri ion h e are ch ar ed ty , p t pt , t y g at a different rate ; th at th e rate under th e last description is the r for exam le the manufac r s of s eel ue one . u e t p , t t ,

wh en im orted from th e ni ed Sta es in national i essel s p U t t v , a an ad f p y valorem duty o se venteen and a h alf per cent . buts ur ical ins rumen s bein ar icul arl desi na ed a g t t g p t y g t , p y , under th e same circums ances onl se e and a h alf er t , y v n p cen t .

’ F e fl le r e r tzc s .

Th e follow in r l a ic es are im orted free of du V l z. g t p ty,

oo s l n all l an ua es S aues 1 B k , g g , t t , Ma s Coll e c ions of an i ues p , t t q , Ch ar s us s t , B t , hiloso h ical ins rumen s Medals P p t t , and a ara us A ricul ural im lemen s pp t , g t p t ,

E n ravin s Plants and seeds . g g , ic ures P t , A ll kinds of machinery for th e improvem ent Of agricul ure or for the re ara ion or manufac ure ofth e roduc s t , p p t t p t of th e earth . ll machines and u ensils to be used in m 1nin or in A t g, w orkin old sil er la ina m ercur co er iron or g g , v , p t , y, pp , ,

- oth er me als semi me al s or mi erals . t , t , n A ll m achines to be used in th e navigation of lakes and

rivers. A ll m achines and instruments to be used in the manu ‘ l facture Of cotton and w oo . f a l abora or or w or sh o A ll instruments or parts o t y k p, bel on i n to an ci izen or forei ner rofess r of an g g y t , g , p o y r h all co e to th e countr liberal or mech anical a t, wh o s m y

de . and establish h imself i n h is profession or tra

Prin in resses and all necessar a ara us for rint t g p , y pp t p

in es and rin in ink . g, typ , p t g O T E S ON C OLOM A N BI .

old sil er and o h er recwus m e als coined or in G , v , t , p t , , ; ,

" Th e importation Of th e following articles is proh ibited ’ under n l of fo f z e a r e n th e Sh i and C ar o 1 . p ty iti g p g , V

Mus e s Rifles and Car k t , , ' S u ar bines g , .

All ar icles th e rowth roduce or manufac ure of S am t , g , p , t p

Or her Colom es.

Th e follm i s theTariff of E x or Du ies to g p t t , take

b l aw on the rs da Of Jul 1826 . effect y , fi t y y,

10 er cen p t .

Dy e Woods f “ Oth er precious Woods and Timber h er ar icl es and roductio ns A ll ot t p , not otherW 1se mentione d bel ow 4 Th e du is to be cal cul a ed on the curren rice of th e ty . t t p

’ t th e l ace of ex or ation to ascer ain his the article a p p t ; t t , Collec or 1s on th e l ast da Of e er month to affix at t , y v y , , ' ‘ of his Ofli ce a lis of th e curren rices of th e ar the door , t t p

l s a in th e ad al ore m ex or du to be xed b tic e gp y g v p t ty, fi y

r t M rch ants and th ree Plan ers. wo e , t

20 e ach .

‘ Horses

A sses

of r l 12 50 E ach h ead h o ned Catt e.

OTE S ON CO LO M N BIA .

- x r a ion an i f th e re e po t t of y mported art1cle . A system o Wareh ousin which does not re ui re h a th e du ies sh ould g, q t t t

be aid or u in bond h as been ar iall in roduced. Por p p t , p t y t to Ga ell and Car ha ena on th e A lan ic and ua a uil v o t g t t , G y q ‘ ” on th e P ci c are desi na e d b l aw as or s f de osite a fi , g t y p t o p , into w h ich all kinds of goods may be introduced and de~ osi ed 1n h ubli c w areh ous s h r m ain un il p t t e p e , w ere th ey e t th e ow ner or consi nee ma reclaim h em ei er 1n art g y t , th p ’ or in th e wh ole and eith er for sal e and on m tion or , c su p for re e ortation t xp . Wh en th e goods are taken Out Of th e Wareh ouse for sale n th e coun r th e im or duties are o ‘be aid on th e s ame i t y , p t t p iii ' hi h r x b n terms and at th e same eriods, w c a e e d the e p l fi y g neral l aw ; and th e tinde is to be cal cul ated from th e day 0 11 th e oods are w i h draw n from de osit w h ich g t p e .

' If th e oods are withdraw n for re- ex or a ion th r s g p t t , e e i no i mport duty to be paid but on all goods deposited in

Wareh ouses h ere is due a de osi e du at th e ra th e , t p t ty, te of four per ce ntum per annum upon th e am ount of th e oice tO be cal cul a ed from th e da on w hich th e are v , t y y eh oused to th e d a on w hich h e are w i h draw n fo War , y t y t r

' - 1 x or a ion. This du is to be aid at t i sal e or re e t t ty . p h e t me p , \ o of taking the g ods out. 1 Wh e n th e goods are . w ith draw n from depOsite for th e — purpose of re expor tation to any oth er p ort of Colombia; th e Offi cer of th e customs /is to deliver to the ow ner or

' onsi nee a co of th e in oice ex ressin on it th a th e c g , py v , p g , t m ion d t erei h a i im or du i goods ent e h n, ve not pa d th e p t t es .

The followin rates are es ab ish ed in th e a men of g t l , p y t Tonnage duties 1 - A Na ional essel 12 cen s . t v 2 t A Foreign vessel 50

A Na ional essel of wen ons an under free. , t v t ty t d , ‘ Nat1onal vessel s r ceedin from one , p o g ort of th e Re ublic to anoth er f r p p , o each ton over twenty On th e e ntr of th e essel in o or th e ro e “ Of cer y . v t p t, p p r fi ' sh all recei e from th e m as erin su ercar o th e re ister v t p g , g , and on th e sailin of th e ess l is to redeli er it to h im if g v e , v , th e id W en r on o tonnage duty h as been pa . h eve a c sul r c mercial a en of th e Natl on to w hich the essel be om g t , v ‘ lon s resides m th e or thei1 th e ofiicer af er h a in g , p t, , t v g ce ived th re is er and af er h avin ascer ained th e ton~ e g t , t g t na e of th e essel s h all ass over th e re is er to the Con g v , p g t sul or Commer cial A en u on h is re cei t and under g t, p p , ' ta in h th du h all e aid i h i k g t at e . ty s b p w t n ten day s after th e entry of th e vessel

Pilota e Li t a nd oth er Port D tie g , g h , u s .

Th e follow mg ch arges are paid under th is h ead A ge neral h arborfee on

‘ Na ional ssels ' 6 doll r t ve a s. Foreign vessel s A n or e d ch ag uty . National Ve ssel s

' ’ Foreign Ve ssel s e on and Li h B ac g t duty . National vessels Foreign h r e Pilo a e w e ne e s . t g , ( c s ary ) National vessels 8 Foreign vessels In th e ri er Gua a uil National essel l v y q , v s pay api otage of ei h and Forei n v essels six een dollars from A ren g t, g t , a to A una and th e same from A una u t h ' p , p p o t e port of

' ua a uil . In th e ri er Orinoco the ilota ei ten dol G y q v , p g i s ’ Jars for each foot th e essel draw s from th e m ou h of th e v , t ri er to the or Of n o ura u on' National or Forei n v p t A g st , p g l vesse s. OTE S O N C OLO M N BI A .

There is to be paid upon all goods passingover the Isth -a m us Of anama from th e one ocean to the o h er a du of P , t , ty be l l n oi ce tw o ercen . to ca cu at d n th lu f th e i p t e o e va e O v , w hich 18 to be delivered ce rti ed and sw orn to as is l o , fi , , p ided in th e im Ortat n l v p io aw .

' A ll essel s buil in C Ol om b i i ens v t bl a, and ow ned y c t z th ereof or buil el se w h ere and ac uired b urch ase Or ; t , q y p l aw ful ca ure w h ere of the m as er and h ree- fourth s f the pt , t t o m ariners are Colom bi an itize ns ar d e e m e d b l aw Co c , e y ,

‘ ss l s In t t ni ed State s i l ombian V e e . h e reat w ith th e t t y U , i s agree d th at if eith er nation sh all be e ngaged in w ar, th e V essel s Of th e oth er sh all be furnish ed w ith sea- l etters or

” ass orts e x re ssin th e n am e ro er and bulk of the p p , p g , p p ty, shi nd th e name and lace Of h abitation Of th e mas er p, a p t , and w h e n th e vessel s are lade n th ey sh all also h av e certi tes containin th e s everal ar icul ars Of the car O and fica g p t g , th e pl ace wh e nce th e s hip sailed . A ny one w h o sh al l serve for six m onths on board any

‘ Colombian es sel ma obtain le ters Of naturaliza ion b v , y t t y s t in th e oa h Of alle 1ance to th e re ak g t g public.

Th e trade from one or to anoth er 1n Colombia is ro p t , , p h i it d o ll f rei n s l b e t a o g ves es.

Colombia h a in no col onies no Observa ion is necessar v g , t y under h i Th e I l nd of M rl ta 15 an inte ral ar t s h ead. s a arga g p t Of th e re ublic and 1s re arded as such 111 all the commer p , g

cial and political regul ations of the country.

OT S ON C OLOM 296 N E BI A .

‘

e lombia ma ma e from ime to time o o her na ions . On y k , t , t t t th e 18th O f A ril 182 5 a trea of commerce and na r , p , , ty v ' tion w as concl uded bew ee n Colombia and Grea ri ain ga t t B t , w hich laced ri ish comm erce as to cer ain ur oses on p B t , t p p , th e footin of th e commerce of th e nati e and con ain g v , t ed th e following prOV1s1ons “ Th e same d uties sh all be paid on th e importation into “ ’ th e territories of Col ombia of an ar icle th e row h , y t , g t , ’ oduce or m anufacture Of his ri annic Ma est s do pr , , B t j y mini ons w h eth e1 such im orta ion be in Col ombian or , p t l ” B ritish vesse s . “ Th e same du ies sh all be aid and th e same boun ies t p , t

‘ and drawbac s allow ed on the ex ortation of ar icl es th e k , p v t row th roduce or m anufacture of Coloinbia to h is g , p , , ,, ’ ritannic Ma es s domi ions wh e h er such ex or a ion B j ty n , t p t t be in Colombian or B ritish vess “ NO other or hi h e r du ies on accoun Of onna e li h g t t t g , g t or h arbOur due il o a e dam a e in case Of shi w rec s , p t g , g p k, m a n oth er local ch ar es sh all be im os ed n an of the y g , p i y

orts O f Col ombia. on ri ish essels th an th ese a abl e p B t v , p y ” n th e same or s on Colombian essel s . l p t , v

Th ese sti ul ations ave th e ni e d States ~a ri h under p g U t g t, th eir trea to h a e h eir commerce laced in th e sam e ty , v t p situation and m conse uence Of h eir demand h rou h , , q t t g h eir m inis er th e de cree w as issue d b th e Re ublic Of t t , y p Colombia of w h ich th e foll ow in is an ex rac : , g t t

‘ ’ I bein obli a or on Col ombia not to ran an ar t g g t y g t y i p ‘ " ticula f ours to o h e r na ions in res ec to comm er . f r av t t , p t ce “ and na i ation which sh all not be made c mmon to th e v g , o ” ni d S a e U te t t s . “ It is h erefore de creed That ere shall be aid th e , t , , th p sam e duties on th e importation in th e territories of l ombia of an ar icle t e row h roduce or manu , y t , h g t , p , ure O f th e ni ed S a es and Of th e erri ories sub e ct t , U t t t , t t j to th e ni ed S a e s and here s h all be aid th e same U t t t , t p A PPENDIX .

“ duties and allowed th e same disco n d . o n ies , u t an b u t On. th e ex orta ion of an ar icle th e r wth roduce or p t y t , g q , p ,

“ " manufac ure Of Colombia for th e nited S a es w h e h r t , , U t t , t e such importation or exportation be made1n vessel s of the United States or Col ombian vessels

‘ Th e essels of th e ni ed S ates w h ch ma n er th e v U t t , i y e t “ or s of Col ombia shall a no o h er or h i h er onna e p t , p y t g t g du ies li h du ies h arbour ch ar es or Oth er l ocal ch ar es t , g t t , g , g , “ th an sh all be paid on Col ombian Vessels in th e same “ ” or s p t .

From th e l aw s and rea it a ears h a all articl es t e t ty , pp t t , h row th rodu ce or a nu a ct re 0 th e nifed S tates g , p , m f u 7 U , im or ed in o Col ombia a th e sam e d uties w h eth er th p t t , p y , e i m or a ion be i n ni ed S a es or Colombian vessels and p t t U t t t ; , of course h a th e du ies a able are such as are declared , t t t p y ’ in the first col umn of th e firist and second ables wh en th e x t , im or a ion is made direc from th e ni ed S a es and in ' p t t t U t t t , , ~ m r u o t e second colum n when it is ade h o h th e C lonies. h , t g nder th e resen law th ere is no differe nce in the U p t , amoun of th e ex or du w h e h er th e ex or a ion be i n t p t ty, t p t t natiorial or forei n essel s but w hen th e ex o a ion is in g v , , p rt t essel s of th e ni ed s ates or or ts o th e Un ted S ta tes v U t t , f p f i , this equality in th e duty is farth er protected and ensured

' . In th e case of an ex or a ion to by th e treaty and decree . p t t an o h er coun r th e e uali of th e du de ends on y t t y, q ty ty p of l th e continuance th e aw .

If ever discounts or bounties Sh ould be granted on the . x or a ion of an Colombian articles th e essels of the e p t t y , v

‘ ni ed S a es w ill be as to th ese ri ile es on th e footin U t t t , p v g , g n l of natio a vessels . " Th e onna e li h and all o h er or du ies areth e- s ame t g , g t, t p t t , l s on Unite d States aii d Colombian vesse . In all oth a s th e law s 1m osm ' iscrl mmatin er c se , p g d g 38 L NO TE S O N C O OMBI A .

i es a l to th e essel s of th e ni ed S a es as to o h er dut , pp y v U t t t , t 7 T il n e above b t foreign vessels . h e priv eges e j oy d as y h e ’ mmr e and navi ation of th e ni e S ates w ill con inue co e c g U t d t , t

‘ untiLth e 2 7th da of Ma 1837 unl ess th e rea be ween y y, , t ty t

‘ Great B ritain and Colombia sh ould - be sooner altered or

annulled; Th ere is no limitation on th e face of that treaty . The following ge neral prOV 1s1ons for th e security and ex e nsion of commerce are con ained in h e rea be ween t t , t t ty t , th e Um ted States and Colombia. A ll m erch an s com anders of sh i s and o h er ersons t , m p , t p , m a m ana e th em sel e s th e r o w n business in th e er s y g , v , i p t and l a s of each countr as w ll w ith r es e ct to th e sal e p ce y , e p and consi nment of th ir ood s b w h ol esal e or retail as g e g , y , ' ith res ect to th eir l oadin nl oadin and sendin ofi w p g, u g, g

th eir ships.

‘ Th e citizens of nei h er coun r nor h eir Vessels nor t t y, t , car oes are liable to an e mbar o unless sufficie n indem g , y g , t t m ade o h em for th e de ention ni y be t t t . Free shi s m ake f ree oods exce w ith re ard to ar i p g , pt g t

cl es of contraband .

‘

Th e ro er . of th e citizens of th e one countr found p p ty y,

' n board th ss l of o e ve e s an e nemy of th e oth er, is l awful prize . ’ Th e rade to an e nem s or is free unl ess it is bl oc t y p t , k “ aded and h ose l aces onl are besie ed or bloc aded , t p y g k , w h ich are actually attacked by a belligere nt force capable of re ven in th e en r of th e neu ral and a essel sail p t g t y t , v i to such ort ma be urned aw a but sh all not be de ng p y t y , tained nor sh all an ar of h er car o if not con raband be , y p t g , t , con s ca ed unless af er w arnm ofs uch bloc ade r omthe fi t , , t g, k f

‘ a ain a e m t to en er g tt p t , Th e rinci le h a th e fla sh all cover th e ro ert p p t t g p p y, is not re cognized by Colom bia With any nation but th e United States ; ofcourse th e vessels of no oth er nation h av

’ S ON C OLO 300 N OTE MBIA .

arcel ona or o ello B , P t B ,

La ua ra Old ua ana and St. Th oma g y , G y s or o Ga ello P t v ,

noco.

Maracaibo,

M 1 t 1 2 6 o o a a s 8 . B g t , y ,

A P PE NDI X C .

Peta no ar uina rs uali 10 arrobas or 2 50 y b k, (q ,) fi t q ty, , lbs . mule l oad in th e mountains ( ,) , t Do. at Honda

Fusa a bar su a 2d uali do do. g g k, q ty, . Co er fundido at the m ine s of Mom ui ra Pro ince pp , ( ,) q , v

of So orro 25 l . 4 a inal . c cts . b 2 u , $ q t

old d s f om Ch o o 11 li 200 u r c 5t ua er lb. G t , q ty, $ p l a i m f nu crude do. rom 4 t 6 er lb. P t , ( ,) o p

- Camima oil in San abl o on th e ban s of th e lVI dae , P , k ag

lena 10 er s one b l e . , $ p t ott ’

alm of Tolii in Mom os at 3 er 1h. B , p , p

n- abl o 1 r lh I ecacuanh a in Sa P e . p , , p

V - M r in t anilla in th e s e es of San a a 3 er lb. t pp t , p

- O er Nu ria s ins from San Mar in. tt ( t ) k , t ’ Dr - b a on s bl ood in Honda 1 er l . g , , p

' Tobacco th e bes i n V arinas th e nei hbour ood of Bai~ , t , g h l dores and at uaduas on th e Ma dalena th e ri ce from e , G g , p 1 1 to 3 er uintal accordin to th e mode m which it is $ p q , g B t this ar icle is a o rnment cured and th uali . u e , e q ty t g v mono ol p y . Mules for bur h en 50 for th e saddle from 150 to t , , ,

300.

" ' Horned ca le i n th e lains 2— are fre uen l illed tt , p , $ q t y k f r o th e hides and tallow .

Hides l n the lai ns 1;20. , p , $

Cacao of Carac s be er h an h a of the islands . a , tt t t t ’ ’ Cof ee l d n s en o s th e hi hes re u a ion. f do. B an i j y g t p t t