the gender issue needle & thread Welcome to our Gender issue. detail but creates the strongest of silhouettes that modernise PAGE 3 The idea of androgyny, that of fashion. being both male and female, is certainly nothing new, particularly What I find interesting in our when it comes to pop-cultural current fashion climate is icons. Yet it seems to be coming anything that blurs, transforms arTificial fuTure into fashion’s consciousness, or recreates gender. One of thanks to Raf, Alexandre and Lang this issue’s feature articles is on PAGE 4 to name but a few. Over the last tailored womenswear designer, few seasons we have seen the Dhini, whose Autumn/Winter 08 sharpest of lines and the trend collection epitomises this new looks set to continue well in to aesthetic. 2008. annie androgyny Some of the ideas in this issue are I speak from experience when I obvious, while others require a PAGE 8 say there comes a certain power little more lateral thinking but we with dressing like a man. It’s a hope you enjoy our latest edition. minimal, chic, sophisticated look CATHERINE MCPHEE that doesn’t require too much EDITOR/CREATIVE DIRECTOR OH BOY! PAGE 9 aLisoN dAvis PAGE 19

CREATIVE DIRECTOR/FOUNDER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Catherine McPhee MARTIN BLEASDALE LACHLAN BOYLE DESIGNER JASON HENLEY James Johnston COPYRIGHT & DISCLAIMER Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission by Canvas is strictly prohibited. EDITORIAL MANAGER COVER SHOT All information and credits are accurate at the time of publicatoin, but are subject to change. Catherine McPhee PHOTOGRAPHY Martin Bleasdale HAIR Lisa Guardala HTTP://CANVASMAGAZINE.NET FASHION DIRECTOR MAKEUP Marni Robinson © 2008 CANVAS MAGAZINE Catherine McPhee MODEL PJ @ Dallys NeedLe & THREAD Needle and Thread’s laser cut jewellery sets a new standard with its eighties reference and androgynous capabilities. TEXT CHARLOTTE EVANS PHOTOGRAPHY LACHLAN BOYLE

From Balenciaga’s staple blazer to Karen The androgynous jewellery line which consists of “Girls are dressing so boyish at the moment and it Walker’s man cut trousers, this year’s Autumn/ necklaces and brooches is formed from brightly seems essential for a boy to be wearing a necklace, Winter international runways have mimicked the coloured acetate plastic, cut by a laser machine and so our line was created around this idea. It’s a great androgynous styling’s of Dianne Keaton in her 1977 strung on sterling silver chains. In capital letters, genre of fashion that’s around right now--so creative film, Annie Hall. Wearing ties, trousers and vests, Needle and Thread, captivate all things eighties in and empowering”. Dianne Keaton’s character has paved the way for their designs by using witty and bold statements, celebrity style and fashion today. Witnessed on both musical and emotional to captivate their Needle and Thread’s first collection is currently the likes of Kate Moss and Agyness Deyn, man style audience. “We came up with the phrases for the available online. To purchase jewellery by Needle and brogues, collared and bow ties have become necklaces from musical terms we remember hearing, Thread visit their MySpace page @ myspace.com/ must-have pieces for this season. However it is or have seen in movies,” Marisha said. needleandthread or email needle.and.thread@hotmail. not only international designers who are mixing com for prices and available stock. masculine with feminine-- jewellery designers are too Pieces of the collection include necklaces with feeling the pressure to appeal to both genders. slogans such as ‘Be My Fan’, ‘Boombox Baby’, ‘Transparent’ and ‘Trip the light fantastic’, as well Two Brisbane youth have created a jewellery line as playful brooches featuring ghosts and elephants. aimed at both fashion forward boys and girls. Needle Although originally wanting to do clothing, the girls and Thread, the brainchild of Marisha Parker, 20, and found that there was a gap in the market, especially Patrice Lowrie, 21, was formed in April 2007. Their in Brisbane, for this particular kind of jewellery. “We debut collection, which they termed, the ‘rewind, were tired of wearing other people’s art. We were fast forward, pause, play’ collection, is strongly having a real difficult time coming to terms with immersed in the music scene of the eighties. “We our own style and what we wanted to express, and are eighties babies, everything retro and vintage couldn’t find anything out there that would help us is coming back so we wanted to pay homage to it,” define who we were, so we just created our own Patrice said. jewellery to represent our quirkiness and style”. ARTificial fuTuRe Art Direction Dhini Photography Jason Henley Styling Jana Bartolo Model Anna Fisher @ Scene Hair Lyndal Salmon Creative Director @ Biba Make-Up Lou McLaren ALL GARMENTS DHINI COUTURE A/W 2008 TEXT CHARLOTTE EVANS

Dhini’s latest collection has brought together the foundations for my current work--for example the seriousness and strength of men’s tailoring from couture technique of sewing on is vital for 19th century London to create a collection that will the type of specific buttons I use in my collections,” empower fashion forward women. Dhini said.

The collection entitled ‘Artificial Future c.1890’, Since beginning her label in 2006, the Melbourne- demonstrates Dhini’s ability as a designer and based designer has ensured that with her use of showcases her couture training to create a truly men’s tailoring she is pushing women out of their unique and wearable Autumn/ Winter collection for comfort zone and away from clothing that she 2008. believes is “completely saturating the market”. Targeting women who are “creators of trend without Fascinated that women’s clothing during the 19th even meaning to”, Dhini designs for individuals who Century was designed directly from men’s tailoring, “appreciate diminishing conceptual design because Dhini delved into the history of Savile Row tailoring they are brave and self assured and wish to assert and modernised its main components to create a their individuality and stand out from the rest”. collection wearable for women today. “I studied up-close specific 19th century men and With “all those girlie, overly feminine dresses, I feel women’s tailored pieces which are housed in the women are losing their sense of individuality and Fashion and arm of the National Gallery of definitely their sense of power,” Dhini said. Victoria,” Dhini said. Using a colour palette of gunmetal, French navy, In her current collection, Dhini has managed to turn white and black, and adding a futuristic twist with pieces from the exhibition into wearable garments metallic fibres and the wet-look surface treatment, for today. An 1890’s jacket with a trompe l’oeil Dhini’s quest for a futuristic and masculine collection was the inspiration behind the Wing and a is achieved. 19th century equestrian dress formed the all-in-one By toying with 19th century male designs and mixing double waistcoat shirt, which are both suspected to them with fashionable fabrics and finishes witnessed be key pieces of her 2008 collection. on international runways, Dhini is ensuring the future However, it is her extensive training of couture and of her label and the acceptance and appreciation of men’s garments that has allowed Dhini to turn her her audience. Believing that “a woman’s form is so fascination of 19th century tailoring into a reality. much more inspiring”, than that of a man’s it looks like we can expect another collection soon. Since training at Boudicca, one of London’s most revered avant-garde fashion houses and working She suggests it will be a little softer and a little more alongside Australian Bridal Designer, Marianna delicate, but the hard edge that Dhini is becoming so Hardwick, Dhini has been able to develop skills that recognisable for will undoubtedly be present. designers of her age wouldn’t normally posses. “At Marianna Hardwick, I learnt a lot of fundamental hand-couture techniques that really form the http://www.dhinicouture.com.au/ PREVIOUS Black Double Waistcoat Shirt, Black Tuxedo Trousers THIS PAGE Black Shoulder Pad Dress White Shirt-Blouse with Detachable Collar THIS PAGE Gunmetal Gathered Trench OPPOSITE Black Metallic wing Collar Lapel Shirt Black Double Front Tuxedo Jacket, Black Tuxedo Trousers aNNIe aNDROGYNY Photography Martin Bleasdale Hair kathy hazidavis @ arc creative MAKE UP remi wood Models sarah & emily @ dallys Stylist Catherine McPhee @ ARC CREATIVE vintage bouse from retro stop, bowtie stylist’s own, nom*d vest, therese rawsthornefor youthworld maxi shorts

dhini couture playsuit, top hat from distinctive accessories vintage bouse from retro stop, bowtie stylist’s own, nom*d vest, therese rawsthornefor youthworld maxi shorts, twice heels from beth & lou

vintage scarf & hat from retro stop, dhini couture tuxedo dress she wears pleasure state bra & briefs from cheeks he wears vintage bouse from retro stop, bowtie stylist’s own, nom*d vest, therese rawsthornefor youthworld maxi shorts he wears dhini couture tuxedo dress with vintage hat & scarf from retro stop she wears lejaby bra & briefs, stay ups stylist’s own

he wears gail sorronda for target blouse, illionaire vest from violent green, haughty belle bloomers from cheeks, floral brooch & shoes stylist’s own she wears vintage bustier & briefs from retro stop, leona edminston stay ups she wears pleasure state camisole from cheeks he wears nylo locks blouse from sidestreet, bracewell pant, tie stylist’s own

dhini couture collar mesh top, therese rawathorne for yourhworld maxi pants, twice heels from beth & lou ! POHhotography Martin Bleasdale BOY Hair lisa guardala MAKEUP marni robinson Model pj @ DALLY’s Stylist Catherine McPhee @ ARC CREATIVE fashion assistant charlotte evans PREVIOUS Rittenhouse jumper from Apartment Zambelli business shirt THIS PAGE saint augustine’s academy dinner jacket & tuxedo shirt, vintage frill stylist’s own kid robot hoodie from s-lab PREVIOUS kid robot hoodie & t-shirt from s-lab hat & sunglasses stylist’s own THIS PAGE French collar made-to-order from Nuclear Threads Frilled gib from Disguises Saint Augustine’s Academy vest Modern Amusement shirt from Violent Green Lonely Hearts Club denim vest from Violent Green Bowtie from MBT INTRODUCING ALISON DAVIS

With a penchant for fossicking through markets and vintage stores for inspiration, Alison Davis plans for a big future following the completion of her fashion degree at Sydney’s Whitehouse Institute of Design.

Alison’s “Parisienne Geisha” collection, made from sumptuous vintage brocades and prints, channels lines from traditional Japanese costume. Her fascination with art deco fashion illustrator Erte, famous for his visual spectacles in design, comtemporises the signature collection with its bold lines and silhouettes, creating a coherent contrast in masculine and feminine form. A striking colour palette of neutral tones with accents of blue hues creates a powerful expressions of beauty from whichever side you look at it. stockists Violent Green + 61 7 3003 0078 Apartment +61 7 3210 0073 S-Lab +61 7 3310 4480 Sidestreet Paddington +61 7 3511 7632 Ruby Red Dress +61 7 3876 3854 Retro Stop +61 7 3357 3622 Distinctive Accessories +61 7 3221 0104 Beth & Lou +61 7 3366 2384 Cheeks +61 7 3221 8675 Modern Amusement +61 2 9331 5774 Friedrich Gray [email protected] www.frierichgray.com Lonely Hears Club +64 9 377 9197 Kid Robot [email protected] Wood Wood +45 3535 6264 Zambelli +61 2 8565 7575 Altios Australia +61 2 9331 5774 Beverley Feldman www.beverlyfeldmanshoes.com Bracewell +61 2 9212 4166 Nom*D +64 3 477 7490 Gail Sorronda +61 7 3257 0100 Elephant PR +61 8399 2988 St. Augustine’s Academy +61 2 9690 2863 Miss Splendid Communications +61 3 9257 4528 Dhini Couture +61 3 9859 9810 www.dhinicouture.com Theresa Rawthorne www.thereserawsthorne.com.au Shakuhachi +61 2 9331 3074 Lejaby +61 2 9331 5774

WE WOULD LIKE TO THANK TO THE FOLLOWING FOR THEIR PATIENCE & SUPPORT Martin , Charlotte, Lisa, Marni, Kathy, Remi, Lucas & Guillame @ Altios, Simon @ Violent Green, Nick & Ben @ Apartment, Jason @ Elephant PR, Missy @ Miss Splendid, Carrie @ Beth & Lou, Georgie @ Tailormaid Communications, Jason Henley, Dhini, Oliver @ S-Lab, Whitehouse Design Institute, Alison Davis, Maree @ Sidestreet, Thomas @ Dallys Models, Rachel @ Cheeks, Holly @ St. Augustines, Needle & Thread, Georgie Porgie