LIFE | WINE A Truly Great Grape is used to make a variety of wines across the globe. Yet its versatility shouldn’t detract from its power, writes James Suckling

y fellow wine taster and JamesSuckling.com contributing editor, Nick Stock, told me that “cabernet sauvignon is the most versatile red wine grape in the world” after the Cape Mentelle International Cabernet Tasting in I preferred it for its superb structure and Margaret River, Australia. I’d tend to agree. complexity; it had so much amazing tobacco Creating many of the greatest wines in the and herb character, with ripe fruit and earth. world today, the formidable grape can age for It was also wonderfully structured, with very centuries, too—I was lucky enough to taste polished tannins. This shouldn’t come as a early 1800s Bordeaux that was still enjoyable, surprise, as it’s one of the great wine producers with complex aromas and flavours. of Bordeaux. My second choice, Ornellaia, So I was excited to be part of the Cape followed very closely at 96.5 points. It was Mentelle Cabernet Challenge in Margaret opulent and flamboyant, with loads of ripe River, a blind tasting of some of the best 2012 currant and spicy pepper character, yet it was cabs in the world, including first growths from structured and firm—what a great wine to Bordeaux, top estates of Australia and revered drink and cellar. Super Tuscan reds of Italy. It was hard to gauge exactly what the other The 2012 vintages in the tasting included a tasters’ (primarily Australian winemakers and broad variety of Australian wineries—Leeuwin wine merchants) favourites were, but I think Estate, Woodlands, Cullen, , Vasse they liked the local options including the Cape Felix Heytesbury, Cape Mentelle, Deep Woods Mentelle and the Houghton Jack Mann. Among Reserve, Mount Mary Quintet, Wynns John the Australian cabs, I preferred the former for Riddoch, Bin 707 and Houghton Jack its balance and finesse. Mann. In addition, California was represented One of the main lessons I took away by Far Niente Estate and Château Montelena, from the tasting is how multifaceted while France showcased Cos d’Estournel, cabernet sauvignon is as a grape. Despite the Léoville Las Cases, Lafite Rothschild and La misconception that all cabernet tastes the Mission Haut-Brion. Italy shone through with same, the grape is an excellent communicator Ornellaia and Tenute San Guido Sassicaia. of unique soils and climates. For example, Wines at the cabernet challenge were the maritime influence of Margaret River served blind, in three flights of seven wines certainly came out in the cabernets from the each. They were mixed up so you couldn’t region; they all seemed to have a distinctive tell which wine was from which country, oyster shell, stone and fresh herb undertone region or winery. I found all of the wines very to the blackcurrant and berry character. By distinctive, especially many of the Australian comparison, the warmer coastal area of Italy’s cabs, which seemed to have a minty, fresh herb Bolgheri was much fruitier, with lots of ripe undertone, almost oyster shell-like in flavour. currant flavours and textured tannins. The Bordeaux seemed slightly more austere in In the end, the Cape Mentelle tasting helped texture with firm tannins, while the Californian further my appreciation of the cabernet and Tuscan cabs were more fruity and luscious. sauvignon grape—not only for its versatility, My top pick of the tasting was the La but for its uniqueness when grown in the right

Mission Haut-Brion—I scored it 97 points. areas. illustration: andy leung