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A PANDEMIC PIVOT: THROUGH-HIKING THE HEYSEN

BEYOND THE HEYSEN WITH CAMEL TREKS

WALKING ON EYRE

EXPLORING THE YURREBILLA

FRIENDS OF THE HEYSEN TRAIL | SOUTH AUSTRALIA | ISSUE 157 | SPRING 2020 ALPANA STATION EST. 1878

David and Sally Henery of Alpana Alpana Station offers: Station Blinman offer a friendly, • Quality self-contained guesthouses: TRANSPORT flexible and accredited transport • Alpana shearers quarters (up to service to the best end of the Heysen • 14 guests) & Nungawurtina Hut SERVICE AND Trail: Wilpena, Blinman, Parachilna • bush retreat (up to 6 guests) Gorge Trailhead, for individual walkers • Powered sites with ensuite bathroom ACCOMMODATION or groups. Transfers to the Mawson • facilities for caravans/campers Trail and beyond also available. • Scenic bush camping areas

ST NA AT A EST. 1878 I P O L N

A JUST 5KM FROM BLINMAN BOOKINGS ESSENTIAL T: 08 8648 4626 Contact David and Sally Henery E: [email protected] IN THE FLINDERS RANGES PO Box 11, Blinman SA 5730 WWW.ALPANASTATION.COM

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0 8 2 Friends of the Heysen Trail members receive a 10% discount About the Friends SPRING 2020 • 3

COUNCIL MEMBERS 2020 PATRON END-TO END WALK COORDINATORS PRESIDENT His Excellency the Melanie Sjoberg Honourable Hieu Van Le AC E2E10 Judy McAdam E2E11 John Babister VICE PRESIDENT HONORARY MEMBERS E2E12 Adam Matthews Greg Boundy Sadie Leupold E2E13 Vicki Barrett SECRETARY Thelma Anderson OAM E2E14 Mark Fletcher Julian Monfries Kath Palyga E2E15 Mark Curtis Richard Schmitz E2E-2 Julian Monfries TREASURER Arthur Smith PUBLISHED BY THE Stephen Salib-Brown Colin Edwards TRAIL DEVELOPMENT SECTION LEADERS FRIENDS OF THE HEYSEN Robert Alcock Hugh Greenhill TRAIL AND OTHER Colin Edwards OAM Barry Finn S1 Albert Schmidke WALKING TRAILS Dom Henschke Dean Killmier S2A Roger Dunn, John Wilson Richard Bourne W heysentrail.asn.au John Wilson Margaret Fletcher David Beaton S2B John Newland facebook.com/HeysenTrail John Babister Jack Marcelis S3&4 Hermann Schmidt twitter.com/HeysenTrail Paul Bond Julian Monfries (Wandergruppe Frances Gasson Bushwalkers) youtube.com/HeysenTrail SUB-COMMITTEE Simon Cameron S5 John Babister pinterest.com/HeysenTrail CHAIRS David Rattray OAM S6 Richard Webb TRAIL DEVELOPMENT Hermann Schmidt S7 Graham Loveday CITY BRANCH Paul Bond Robert Alcock S8 Ian Harding Suite 203, Epworth Building Liz O’Shea (WEA Ramblers) WALKING 33 Pirie St, Adelaide SA 5000 John Potter S9 Jerry & Michelle Foster Adam Matthews S10 Open Mon – Fri Kevin Liddiard Wayne Turner, OFFICE Peter Deacon 10:30am – 2:30pm HONORARY MEMBERS Dom Henschke S11&12 Dom Henschke, T (08) 8212 6299 (DECEASED) Colin Rozman, Rick Price MARKETING & E [email protected] Terry Lavender OAM S13 Hugh Greenhill MEMBERSHIP Jim Crinion (Mid North Branch) MID NORTH BRANCH Helen Morgante Neville Southgate S14-18 Arrangements T 0428 347 315 HONORARY Doug Leane currently under review E [email protected] MEMBERSHIP Fred Brooks OFFICE VOLUNTEERS Julian Monfries Jamie Shephard MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION Terry Gasson RECONCILIATION MONDAYS Glen Dow SINGLE $25/year COMMITTEE Graham Loveday Neil Nosworthy FAMILY $40/year Anne Kirk TRAILWALKER Elizabeth Rogers SCHOOLS/ORGANISATIONS WARREN BONYTHON EDITOR TUESDAYS $60/year HEYSEN TRAIL Josh West Valerie Boundy Membership is valid for FOUNDATION Judy McAdam 12 months from the date EDITORIAL CHAIR Chris Porter of payment. SUB-COMMITTEE Neville Haar David Rattray OAM Robert Alcock SECRETARY Philip Bell WEDNESDAYS Neil Nosworthy Robyn Coburn Elayne Sanders Colin Edwards Vicki Cahalan MID NORTH BRANCH Tammy Main Gilbert Downs PRESIDENT Judy McAdam Jack Marcelis Garry Fieldhouse Liz Rogers THURSDAYS VICE-PRESIDENT Julie Stapleton Erica Gordon Kate Greenhill Greg Martin Julian Monfries Judy Szekeres SECRETARY WEBSITE EDITOR Sally Fieldhouse Jeremy Carter FRIDAYS Cathy Bowditch PUBLICITY OFFICERS MEMBERSHIP SECRETARY Erika Guess Garry Fieldhouse David Rattray OAM Julia McLachlan COUNCIL MEETING DATES Suzanne Mausolf OFFICE MANAGER Wednesday 16 September RELIEF STAFF Dom Henschke Wednesday 21 October Dom Henschke Wednesday 18 November BOOKKEEPERS Graham Loveday John Wilson Jack Marcelis Maria Newland Cover: The Flinders & Beyond Tina Behnke Camel Trek Team leaving Margaret Fletcher Waukawoodna Gap. Photo: Anne Kirk. Trailwalker welcomes photo submissions suitable for the cover of the magazine. Please email We acknowledge and respect the traditional custodians whose ancestral lands we traverse along the your high-resolution image to Heysen Trail. We acknowledge the deep feelings of attachment and relationship of Aboriginal peoples to [email protected] Country and pay respects to the cultural authority of Aboriginal peoples within the Country we walk. Contents Trailwalker

Articles, reports and other submissions by members and interested parties are welcome and should be emailed to the Trailwalker Editor at [email protected] Deadline for the next issue (Summer 2020): 24 30 OCTOBER 2020 Adelaide Hills' The Trailwalker magazine is Yurrebilla Trail available by subscription or online at heysentrail.asn.au/ trailwalker and is published and distributed quarterly: 05 13 21 • Autumn (March) • Winter (June) PRESIDENT’S A COVID CATCH WALKING ON • Spring (September) REPORT UP WALK EYRE • Summer (December) The Trailwalker magazine MELANIE SJOBERG JULIE STAPLETON DAVID HOGAN We're walking and Members completed a David retells his has a typical distribution working again. catch up walk between experience helping of 1500, and an estimated Dutchmans Stern and Warren Bonython readership of approximately Buckaringa Gorge. and Terry Krieg twice that number. 06 circumnavigate Lake Eyre. Contributors are urged FRIENDS NEWS 15 to contact the Editor to 24 Keep up-to-date with what’s A PANDEMIC discuss their article prior to submission. The submission happening on the Trail. PIVOT: THROUGH- EXPLORING THE YURREBILLA deadline is usually the first HIKING THE Friday of the month prior to HEYSEN PAULEEN BOND 07 the month of publication. With an absense of TRAILTHINKER PAUL CONNELLY Views expressed in organised hiking, Pauleen QUIZ Paul dusted off his plans Bond, Anne Kirk and Paul contributed articles are to through-hike the Trail. Bond decided to hike those of the authors, and 10 Adelaide Hills' Yurrebilla not necessarily those of the 17 Trail. Friends of the Heysen Trail. THE TRAVAILS OF TREE PLANTING BEYOND THE 25 HEYSEN WITH ADVERTISING RATES NEIL NOSWORTHY (EX. GST) FLINDERS & AN OVERLAND Neil provides the Greening BEYOND CAMEL TRACK DIARY 1/8 PAGE Committee Report. $55 per issue TREK ADAM MATTHEWS 1/4 PAGE $80 per issue

1/2 PAGE $135 per issue ANNE KIRK Eleven members of Adam 11 Matthews' End-to-End FULL PAGE $200 per issue Anne travels north of the 12 group completed FLYER (supplied for insertion) VOLUNTEER Heysen Trail's Parachilna Tasmania's iconic $240 per issue PROFILE Gorge terminus. Overland Track. A commitment for 12 months EVE BUCKLEY 20 advertising (four issues) Eve shares her involvement 30 would attract 10% saving. as a Friends volunteer. TRUTH-TELLING: BLACK LIVES FAVOURITE Advertising specifications and MATTER SHORT WALK article submission guidelines 12 are available upon request or JON HOLBOOK MARK & MIRANDA WATERS ASK A HIKER by visiting Mark and Miranda The Long Ridge track in heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker Chambers Gully. Which luxury item do you explore their links to the typically take on multi- reported massacres in the day hikes? Aroona region. President’s Report SPRING 2020 • 5

ReBoot – We're Walking and Working Again MELANIE SJOBERG

've felt strangely disoriented over Victoria and NSW remind us not to slide Sadly, the Friends has witnessed a the past two or three months into complacency. down-side as a small minority seem to (like many of you I expect) feel entitled to set up camp anywhere More generally, it has been heartening as we gradually adjusted to they like. Some of the small Heysen to see reports from many members isolation, physical distancing, hike-in sites have been vandalised, venturing back onto favoured local an acute awareness of hygiene and the and we've had complaints about a few tracks or discovering new trails. Idisrupted activities in our everyday vehicle campers that have disrespected lives. Thankfully, the whole community private property near the trail by accepted the need to adopt new “ leaving rubbish or building fires. practices, modify travel expectations Clearly, there is something and, together, stave off the most severe wonderful going on: effects from the COVID-19 pandemic. people are responding to “ As the SA Government and Health SA isolation by seeking out Importantly, it highlights announced an easing of restrictions, the experiences in nature. the precious and unique Friends began developing safe protocols nature of our Heysen Trail, to revive our Walk Programme and ” traversing various National enable our trail volunteers and office and Conservation Parks as teams to relaunch some of our valuable After regional travel was revived, and well as private land. activities. we reopened the Friends online shop, sales of maps and inquiries about walking the Heysen Trail grew rapidly. ” “ The social connection of Facebook has After regional travel was Our Trail Development Committee and also helped people discover the option Section Leaders put plenty of effort into revived, and we reopened the of through-hiking the trail in numbers developing a respectful relationship Friends online shop, sales not seen before. with landholders and will continue to of maps and inquiries about Clearly, there is something wonderful work with them and DEW on this issue. walking the Heysen Trail going on: people are responding to It's very disappointing when such grew rapidly. isolation by seeking out experiences anti-social behaviour causes tension in nature. Members bring stories that and generates more work for our ” regular hiking haunts have many more volunteers. Importantly, it highlights people out, Walking SA has noted the precious and unique nature of We are cautiously optimistic that we can similar experiences, and we are aware our Heysen Trail, traversing various continue to build the Walk Programme, that National Parks campsites are National & Conservation Parks as well while our eager trail volunteers are booking out, even during the week. as private land. primed to recommence attending to More recently this has been encouraged urgent safety issues. Even so, we're through SA Tourism Commission Meanwhile keep walking safely, visit conscious that circumstances can promoting visits to great adventure our regions then send in your photos change, so will be ready to respond if locations across our state. and stories. it becomes necessary; recent events in Friends News SPRING 2020 • 6 COVID Safe Walking

SIMON CAMERON

In his role as a Public 48 hours to ensure close contacts can be informed before becoming Health Doctor, Simon contagious. This is the best way of Cameron reports on stopping the spread without the need COVID safe walking for general lockdowns. practices. Self-reporting of symptoms is now part of the Friends' booking system, Trailwalker In uncertain times, some things and bookings only open three never change. Walking is still the best days before the event. If you feel is calling exercise, and where better to walk symptoms coming on after you book, than a bushland trail? The Friends please let the walk leader know and for iconic are fortunate to have dedicated walk withdraw your registration. leaders ready to maintain our Walk Below are a few recommendations. Heysen Programme, while our Council and Trail Walk Committee have been reviewing • On walks, keep mindful of distance. activities and policies to make • After crossing stiles, use good hand photos walking as safe as possible. hygiene before and after — help out To help celebrate the As a Public Health Doctor, I have by bringing your own. Heysen Trail’s 35th year been drawn back into the fray and • Travelling to and from walks is an anniversary in 2021, kept abreast of the rapidly expanding indoor activity. Risk can be mitigated Trailwalker is on the clinical information on the Sars-2 by travelling in household groups, hunt for iconic, unique, Novel Corona Virus that causes the thereby not exposing individuals historic and distinct disease COVID-19. Transmission risk outside the household. However, if images of the Trail. We comes from aerosols and droplets; that is not possible, the use of face are planning to showcase the risk outdoors is small. This basic masks is an effective way of reducing these shots (plus brief fact makes a COVID safe walk plan the risk for others (up to 75% location descriptions/ easy to prepare. reduction). This is essential if using walker anecdotes) in the Physical separation minimises the risk public transport, with the addition of upcoming 2020/21 Summer of aerosol spread. Good cough/sneeze good hand hygiene before and after edition with a look back etiquette and hand hygiene also reduce trips. For short journeys, the type of at the moments that have droplet transmission. Talking for five mask is unimportant. shaped, and continue to minutes is the equivalent of one cough, • A mask should be positioned and shape, our Trail. hence the need for 1.5m of separation. removed by only touching the straps; Snow on Mt Bryan? Of course, it is even more important once on, keep your hands clasped Aftermath of a fire? to isolate yourself at the first sign of when free. Dolphins on Tunkalilla respiratory symptoms — sore throat, • Socialising after walks requires the Beach? Endearing Trail runny nose, fever or cough. same distance rules and is best done figures? Landmark Indeed, it is a community outdoors, if possible. events? Send your high- responsibility to isolate and test as resolution shots to the soon as possible. To have any hope None of this advice is difficult, and, it Trailwalker Editor of containing this virus, cases must offers the skills for safe activity and safe [email protected] be isolated and identified within living. What could be better than that? Friends News SPRING 2020 • 7

Trailthinker Quiz Parks signage announcing the new Wild Wild South Coast South Coast Way on the Hesyen Trail. 1. How many pigs are located in Rundle Mall? Way Update PARKS SA WEBSITE - INDICATIVE TIMELINE 2. WOMADelaide is Melanie Sjoberg traditionally held in provides an update on BY JULY 2019 which Adelaide park? Establish stakeholder consultation the Wild South Coast group 3. A man nicknamed project arising from "Pegleg" discovered BY DECEMBER 2019 copper in which modern the SA Government Commence planning for new/upgraded day town north of commitment of $6 facilities. Engage private sector to Wilpena Pound in 1959? identify business opportunities million to upgrade the 4. Which hiking trail BY JUNE 2020 Heysen and Deep Creek. runs the length of New Concept plans complete and priorities Zealand? for investment set During June, members of the Project 5. SA’s Pichi Richi Train Steering Committee, which includes BY DECEMBER 2020 is based out of which the Friends, undertook a site visit to Construction activities commence. Heysen Trail town? assess concepts for the 5-day, 4-night Wild South Coast Way gateways open hike-in campsites and potential 6. Which animal is used BY JUNE 2021 upgrades to vehicle campgrounds in to represent WA’s Opening of hike-in and upgraded Deep Creek. The ambitious timeline Bibbulmun Track? campgrounds has been affected by COVID-19, 7. The original vision for the however, it is anticipated that BY DECEMBER 2021 Heysen Trail extended trailheads will be finalised by the Upgrade of vehicle access to the to which mountain at end of 2020. Wild South Coast Way the northern tip of the BY JUNE 2022 Flinders Ranges? KINGS HEAD PLATFORM Open new day visitor site in Deep 8. Officially, which is Volunteers from the Rotary Club of Creek Open new universally-accessible Australia’s longest multi- Victor Harbor recently funded and trail in Deep Creek use hiking trail? installed interpretation signs and a BY 2022-23 stylish platform at Kings Head that 9. PCT and AT are popular Complete Deep Creek campground offers excellent views of the coast. It acronyms for which two upgrades. sits at the junction where the Heysen famous USA hiking trails? Trail proper veers away from the coast, 10. The “queen of and the new Wild South Coast section Parks SA now has a dedicated buckjumpers” Curio sits will continue to the Bluff. The Friends website page where members can at the centre of which appreciates the invitation from Victor access information: Heysen Trail town? Harbor Rotary to install a Heysen sign https://www.parks.sa.gov.au/park- on the platform that sits alongside management/wild-south-coast-way ANSWERS PAGE 12 Friends News SPRING 2020 • 8

Friends Obituaries The Friends farewell three members of the Heysen Community. It is with great sadness and sorrow that we share the death of our The 'mischievous' Michael Guest wonderful friend Michael Guest. Early on August 1, at Morialta, we had reached the crest of the first hill and were regaining our breath. The weather was at its best, including Welcome New Members sunny azure blue skies; perfect for walking and for flying, which Michael did with the RAAF. Sadly, Michael The President and the Council would like to extend a warm welcome soon suffered a heart attack. The best to the following 107 members who have joined the Friends since the efforts from his walking friends and last edition of Trailwalker. paramedics could not revive him. Michael was always the gentleman, but Alex Molyneux Georgie Hart Katherine Paul Kroon you knew, from the twinkle in his eye, Alexander Graeme Marks Persia Janzen mischievousness bubbled away below Jenner Bethune Kathy Davies Peter Morrison the surface. Michael did, what we all Amanda Braund Hamish Walsh Krystina Durdin Peter Reed want to do, walk well into our latter Andrew Low Hanne Kyle Baker Peter Vincent years. We in End-to-End 8 believe he Ann Maree Damgaard Kym Davis Riley Kruger was the first octogenarian to complete Roche Harold Leah Dobson the Heysen Trail with the Friends. To Robyn Pope Anne Crouch Camonias take a phrase from the old cowboy Leone Ron Watts Helen Duddy movies, "he died with his boots on", Bhavisha MacKenzie Ros Helmons Keshwala Ian Pope and I'm sure he is now mapping trails Libby Davis Rosemary Burn Bill Dobson Jackie Street he hadn't walked before. Vale Michael, Luke Duffy Ruth Budge our friend, you will be missed. Bill Gehling Jak Allen Malcolm Olle Sandra Written by Alan Harton. Bruce Somerfield Jake Glass Maria Cutufia Braithwaite Caitlin Polack Jan Wiebe Marianne Liddy Honorary Members Glen Dow and Simon Frederick Catherine Jane Grainger Terry Gasson have also died following Mark Nicholls Simone Baldwin protracted illnesses. Jayn Lindholm Martin Linder-Patton Cheryl Jeanette Houey Richardson Sue Green Glen Dow, an accountant and member Wilmshurst Jennifer Harvey Matthew of the Friends since our first year, Sue Wetherall Christopher Kennedy became the Treasurer in 1991, during Joanne Piercy Susan Bethune Baldwin a time when the organisation had two John (Paul) Melanie Payne Susan Packer Chuck Smeeton employees. He remained in this role Johnston Michael Thomas Claire Elliott over the tenure of two presidencies, John Hart Batterham Henning Corey Johns in the days before computers. Glen John Lewis Michael Jenner Tina Greagsby also completed the Trail and was Damien John Wilmshurst Michelle Keenan Tony Jennison involved, with his wife Jennifer, in Fitzpatrick Jonathan Mike Smith Trail maintenance with ARPA. He was Tori Tassone Dana Shen Billington Miranda appointed Honorary Member in 2004. Tracy Belling Daniel van Wyk Trewren Julia Johnston Trish Hensley Terry Gasson was appointed an David Lang Julie Burnett Natasha Dawson Honorary Member in 2008 for his vashti Janzen Deborah Jenner Julie Howard Nathan Prime contributions as Walk Leader and Vicki Cardone Edward Keenan Nicole Cain Social Committee Organiser. As a Karen Lowrey Wendy Green Elsabeth Lang Nigel Dally fine raconteur, his tailor's shop in Kate Robb Wilma Oomen Frehd Patrick Holland Gay's Arcade was a haven for coffee Kath Morris Yvonne Landels and telling tales, while he was also Southern-Starr renowned for his bespoke walking gear. Friends News SPRING 2020 • 9 Trail Maintenance The shed workshop the cause. Donate online at www. at Cobbler Creek has heysentrail.asn.au/shop/donations been raided by thieves With a shortened walking season due to COVID-19 restrictions, the maintenance with electrical tools, group is trying to get the Heysen into a welder and even the good order as quickly as possible security system stolen. to cater for the increased numbers walking the Trail. Unfortunately, In May, the Friends Maintenance Shed the workload has also inflated by an at Cobbler Creek was raided, with unprecedented number of reports of Colin Edwards much of its contents, including power misuse, such as tank taps left on or tools, stolen. This theft is a big blow to stolen, platforms damaged, and parties receives OAM our volunteers, who were preparing to who have been walking/camping on private land. Likely, much of this may Colin Edwards has been a member and restart their activities after the lifting contributor to the Friends organisation of COVID-19 restrictions. The loss will be due to people driving in, rather than walking. If you see anything suspicious, since 1990. Since becoming involved, cost the Friends in the order of $10,000 he has had an active involvement in to replace the stolen equipment. please contact the office by phone or email. Remember, photos are a handy the organisation's evolution, firstly as While Council upgraded and way of describing the situation and the President in 1993, then as a day strengthened the security following the help to pinpoint the location. and extended trip Walk Leader. He previous break-in, this event showed also produced a guide for walk leaders security is a continual risk. As this was Check the Walks Calendar online and co-edited a book of extended day the second theft in the past two years, a and register to join the volunteers walks, 'Push the Bush'. review of this facility was undertaken. on Maintenance Shed days (most Thursdays). Colin took on the management of the The Friends are fortunate that the www.heysentrail.asn.au/walks/calendar Friends shed, and in many cases, has Department for Environment and used his draftsman skills to design Water (DEW) provide access to this A Trail Angel's generous valuable infrastructure for the Trail. facility for our volunteer work. The gesture for Eyre Depot. In 2005, he took on the role of Section shed and associated yard are an Leader through the Adelaide Hills. Since 2009, Colin has been a key organiser of ideal size to store materials needed In June, the Friends received an email new infrastructure programs, including to maintain the Trail, as well as from Ben Jeuken, a hydrogeologist the fundraising and installation of operate a workshop to prefabricate with Groundwater Science in Adelaide. new water tanks, camping benches, infrastructure to facilitate installation He had finished a walk from Quorn toilets, plus coordinating their on-site on the Heysen. Its location is also to Hawker, noticed a hole in the tank construction.In 2010, Colin became advantageous for loading materials at Eyre Depot and offered to replace the Trail Development Coordinator, for work on all but the most southern the shell as he had enjoyed the hike so overseeing and scheduling work for sections of the Trail. After discussion much. After a bit of tick-tacking with approximately 70 volunteers. In 2013-14 with DEW, the shed now has a landowner Andrew Smart, he installed he assisted Walking SA re-establish Mt monitored alarm system installed a new tank and recycled the old one. Lofty Trails, as a member of their sub- and are gradually replacing the stolen Many thanks, Ben. equipment. committee and organising workgroups for trail marking etc. He is the Friends Fortunately, we have already received key liaison with the Department for some incredibly generous donations Environment and Water. to help replace the power tools. In particular, many thanks go to the Heysen 105 trail running group who Colin was awarded an Order of donated $1000 and Cigweld who have Australia Medal in Queen’s Birthday donated a replacement welder. Other Honours 2020. In 2003, he was granted cash donations have also been put to Honorary Membership of the Friends good use. for his contribution to the Friends and Additional donations are still welcome walking in South Australia. In 2016, he as we continue to purchase tools to was given an award for Longstanding continue our important Trail work. Contribution/Distinguished Service to Any donation, large or small, will help Ben Jeuken and his merry helpers. walking by Walking SA. The travails of tree planting Neil Nosworthy provides the Greening Committee Report. Photo: Wayne Turner

ver since the Greening FUTURE PROJECTS Committee was resurrected We have not undertaken a major THE WARREN BONYTHON in 2012, the greening tree-planting project for some years. HEYSEN TRAIL FOUNDATION task at Hiskeys Hut (near was established as the Still, we are always on the lookout for Georgetown) has been an fundraising arm of the possible new planting sites. If you have ongoing labour of love. On the opening Friends of the Heysen Trail an idea for a new planting site, please Eweekend of this project — also, the in order to assist with the contact me by email at neil@noztours. first tree-planting the Committee had development of the Heysen Trail com.au or by phone on 0429 773 800. undertaken — the hard-working team and other walking trails in South Australia. planted 350 trees by the end of the day. Meanwhile, we are investigating an However, a mob of hungry sheep soon opportunity to plant trees near the The Foundation is a arrived and began monstering the young Bethany Reserve up the hill towards Rifle registered charity with tax deductible donations being saplings. A reel of old wire netting was Range Road. Another opportunity under directed towards improving the scrounged to guard the trees, but this consideration is a clean-up and replanting environment along the Trail. idea presented minimal protection of the road reserve at Aldgate Terrace against the ravages of the sheep. near Bridgewater. Inevitably, planning for these projects takes a lot longer In 2016, we returned to Hiskeys and than implementation, but we will keep We thank SIMON PIKUSA and erected 33 more robust tree guards everybody posted as things progress. NEIL BEVERLEY for their using star pickets and mesh fencing generous donations of wire. This infrastructure provided SUPPORTING LOCAL $500 each to the Foundation. sufficient protection for many of ENVIRONMENTAL GROUPS the trees, while the other survivors continued to suffer regular predation In line with our strategy of assisting from roaming sheep. environmental groups working in MAKE YOUR areas along the Heysen Trail, we want TAX-DEDUCTIBLE In the last couple of years, the to encourage volunteers to support DONATION ONLINE industrious Wayne Turner has worked these groups. wbheysentrailfoundation.org.au diligently to plant and care for more Cape Jervis Coastal Community trees at Hiskeys. One of the major In addition, lifetime membership challenges has been to find inexpensive Group. The CJCCG holds bi-monthly of the Foundation can also be materials to construct tree guards. working bees on the site and welcomes obtained by payment of $25 Fortunately, we obtained a supply all volunteers. The next working bees through the website. of star pickets and wire from Kevin are scheduled for 3-4 Oct and 5-6 Dec Crawshaw (thanks, Kevin) and another 2020. Interested volunteers should picket collection after demolishing old contact Carolyn Schultz by email at fences in Sturt Gorge Recreation Park, [email protected] courtesy of the Friends of Sturt Gorge. Friends of Newland Head As a result, there are now around 100 Conservation Park. The group has trees under Wayne's care with a range working bees weekly on Friday of different tree guards providing mornings and on the second Saturday of security from ravenous sheep and, the month from 9am-midday. Interested ultimately, providing protection for the volunteers should email Simon Swan on walkers using the hut. [email protected] Volunteer Profile SPRING 2020 • 11

Volunteer Profile: Eve Buckley

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN WHAT'S A FAVOURITE WALK INVOLVED WITH THE FRIENDS? OTHER THAN ON THE HEYSEN It must be 25 years ago when I first TRAIL? became involved with the Friends — I found the Northern Territory's not long after I moved to Adelaide Larapinta Trail particularly difficult; from Darwin. I wanted to continue however, the UK's Coast to Coast Walk bushwalking, but it had to be with a in 2011 was my most memorable. Not group as I have a poor sense of direction. only because of the horrible weather In the Northern Territory, I regularly — we endured a cyclone through the walked in Katherine Gorge with other Lakes District — but also the stunning For some people, a large group bushwalkers — I can still remember beer scenery. is not appealing, but, for me, the cans stuck in the trees as trail markers. IS THERE SOMETHING YOU'D walking experience is about building WHAT ARE SOME ACTIVITIES IN NEVER BE WITHOUT WHEN friendships and camaraderie that WHICH YOU'VE VOLUNTEERED YOU'RE WALKING? make it worthwhile. WITH THE FRIENDS? A full flask. A hot cup of tea is my I also think that the Friends I've always been an office volunteer. It reward on any walk. maintaining a 1,200km trail as must be 10 years ago — after I retired a volunteer organisation is an — when I started working in the WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR extraordinary achievement. I've just Friends' Pitt Street office. I'm a good MOST MEMORABLE MOMENTS resigned as an office volunteer because talker and very enthusiastic about the ON THE TRAIL? I can no longer walk; my back is in Heysen Trail, so I mostly answered the It would have to be encountering snow agony after 15 minutes. I'm grieving phone. When I first started, little fuss on Mount Bryan; I was one of only two because, after 40 years of bushwalking, was made of those who had walked walkers wearing shorts that day! I have to give it up. the Trail independently. They'd come to the office looking for recognition, and we did very little to acknowledge their achievement. In those days, we mostly issued certificates to members. Now anyone who completes the Trail receives a certificate.

WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE WALK ON THE HEYSEN? The section from Hawker to Parachilna is my favourite; I've walked it four times. I first completed the Trail with End-to-End 1, then Minus 1, and finished a third time with a number of E2Es, particularly E2E2 and E2E4. Trailwalker Photo I remember the first time I finished the Melanie Brown, Belinda Grayling, Competition Trail with E2E1; we all sped up as we Photo: Peter James Peter Moriarty and Richard Moriarty. approached the trailhead at Parachilna. There was an older woman in our group, Dawn, who had battled chronic This ingenuitive We invite our readers to pain in her hips but still managed to group printed and submit photos of themselves or arrive at the end with the help of anti- others reading Trailwalker in inflammatories. Our leaders, Julian shared their Winter interesting or unusual locations. Monfries and David Beaton, encouraged Trailwalker at Boat Please send your high-resolution us to stand back and allow Dawn to Harbour Beach. photos to The Editor at climb the stile first. After that, it didn't [email protected] matter who went next. SPRING 2020 • 12

ASK A HIKER Which luxury item do you typically take on multi-day hikes?

I like to read while I'm on Breakfast is the most My multi-day hikes multi-day walks, though important meal when on typically involve planting books can quickly become a multi-day hike. Having a food drops and walking for bulky when I pack my solid breakfast will get you a week at a time to reach overnight bag. To save through the day, and I don’t them. Carrying enough skimp. I take little cartons space and often weight, I gear to get through seven Trailthinker often take my trusty Kindle of 150ml full cream long- days doesn’t leave much (pictured) to keep me lasting milk. Yes, I realise room for luxuries… but my Quiz Answers company on the long nights. it is indeed a luxury, but for box drops often include me, it’s seriously worth the fresh clothes, Toblerone, 1. Four. Truffles (the COLIN EDWARDS extra weight. canned food (including standing pig), Horatio Trail Development fruit to add to my muesli (the sitting pig), Oliver CAROL HOMEWOOD the next morning) and a (the pig at the bin) Walk Leader bottle of wine. and Augusta (the trotting pig) 2. Botanic PETER WYNEN Park (Tainmuntilla) Past Trailwalker Editor 3. Blinman (named after Robert “Pegleg” Blinman) 4. Te Araroa Trail (3,048 km) 5. Quorn 6. The Well, originally my luxury Waugal, the rainbow item was a necessity. That serpent of the was until Marlene found me As caffeine to start the day is Aboriginal Dreaming trying to stash the object a must, I like to take a small 7. Mt Babbage 8. away in her backpack on coffee maker with me on It is not my normal drink Bicentennial National one of our longer walks. the trail. I use a light-weight of choice, but a flask of Trail (5,330 km Now – it is indeed a luxury. filter and espresso ground Scotland’s finest is my including trail through Those of you who know me coffee to get my morning luxury item. Nothing like Victoria, New South may not be surprised to under way. a wee dram as a nightcap Wales, Australian know that I am referring to Capital Territory and JULIAN MONFRIES after a long day on the trail, my laptop. and oh so warming when Queensland) Secretary it’s cold. 9. Pacific Crest Trail DOM HENSCHKE and Appalachian Trail Office Chair JUDY MCADAM 10. Marrabel Walk Leader ArticleA COVID Title Catch Up Walk SPRING 2020 • 13

Breakout Photos: Julie Stapleton title for A COVID article Catch UpAUTHOR Walk NAME

JULIE STAPLETON

Eight members of These historical hardships and the in the area, and, naturally, the vista remoteness of the area left me with an at the summit stretches on forever. Julie Stapleton's End- eerie feeling as we passed through. Dutchmans Stern, Mt Brown to-End 10 group, two and Mt Remarkable are now in the The region's ripple rocks are an south, Willochra Creek is to the east, leaders and four backup incredible sight; masses of them, all and the lure of those famous purple intricately chiselled underwater some vehicles completed a ranges await us in the north. We were millions of years ago. The vastness catch up walk between blessed with perfect breathless sunny of these limestone, granite and slate weather, with the occasional kangaroo Dutchmans Stern rocks have to be experienced by and a smattering of goats keeping all, in conjunction with the most Conservation Park and us company. Buckaringa Gorge. unimaginable neverending creek bed. Traversing the ridge affords a spectacular landscape of inaccessible his 49km stretch is “ ranges, deep valleys and vast skies both the most spectacular, Mt Arden awaited; a climb to the east and the west. The eye can challenging and scariest that is no mean feat. see for hundreds of kilometres over section of my Trail mountains and gorges. I recommend experience so far. I found stopping and consuming these views; my mind wandering to the ghosts ” you will not see scenery like this Tof South Australian explorers Eyre, Mt Arden awaited; a climb that is no anywhere else on the Heysen Trail. Flinders and Stuart — they were mean feat. The landform is the largest looking for an inland sea; while our party was looking for enjoyment. Only one of us would be left disappointed. We began our hike from Dutchmans Stern Conservation Park, north-east of Quorn. The park's iconic bluff, after which the reserve is called, was so named as the rocky outcrops and slopes appear to resemble the reverse stern of Dutch sailing ships from the eighteenth century. The outlying Eyre Depot also played a notable role in South Australia's European Massive boulders lined our path. history, providing a vital water source for embattled early pioneers. A COVID Catch Up Walk SPRING 2020 • 14

We had the privilege of camping witnessed goat tracks veering through in Quentin Smith Memorial BBQ the scrub which upset the leaders, and campground, near Mt Arden, which brushed past saltbush, Andamooka was a lovely end to a tough day. A Lillies and river red gums. We even huge thank you to those who set searched for yellow-footed rock- up the cosy campfire, where we wallabies, though, they were probably devoured Judy's specialties and kept hiding and giggling to themselves as ourselves entertained with tall tales. we battled the tricky terrain. The track The temperature dropped to minus 4 eventually petered out to a lifeless overnight, but the fire quickly roared gibber plain, but that's all part of the back to life come morning, allowing Trail journey. I look forward to what the hot coffee to flow. the Heysen throws up next.

“ This section of We even searched for the Heysen Trail yellow-footed rock-wallabies, can be found on though, they were probably Sheet Map 7, hiding and giggling to Dutchmans Stern themselves as we battled Conservation Park to the tricky terrain. Mernmerna Creek. ” The final stretch of this three-day adventure was truly stunning; but, The group navigating a steep incline. oh so rugged. We navigated creeks,

CARAVAN PARK

The Natural Choice Bookings Essential

surrounded by parklands, with a short stroll to town Gary & Bronwyn Lucas | [email protected] SPRING 2020 • 15

the sunset from Rossiters Hut and the company of inquisitive horses north of Kapunda.

WEEK 3

TO HALLETT RAILWAY STATION After passing through the vineyards of the Barossa and the grain-growing region of the Light District, the halfway mark brought more remote areas. To my uneducated eye, the farmers looked PAUL CONNELLY to have had a solid start to the season, with crops looking healthy. I rescued a sheep that had caught its front legs in the top strands of a fence. I'm not sure if it survived, but I called into a nearby A Pandemic house to let them know. Week 3's highlights included Burra Creek Pivot: Through- (I'll be sure to return), the heritage-listed Burra township, four soaring wedge-tailed eagles, the endless hills north of Burra, the hiking the sunset from Black Jack's cabin and seeing giant earthworms on Mt Bryan.

WEEK 4 Heysen Photos: Paul Connelly TO GO-CART TRACK SHELTER The tent didn't get used a lot this week. Instead, my accommodation included Spalding Hotel, Curnows Hut, Hiskey's After 18 months of a frosty morning at Inman Valley, a Hut and Bowman Park Hut. Before fence-hurdling cow, some enchanting this through-hike, I'd covered, as day, preparing to attempt fungi and a large flock of yellow-tailed overnight or shorter multi-day hikes, the Appalachian Trail, black cockatoos in Kuitpo Forest. from Cape Jervis to Spalding; this week bought me into new territory. I also COVID-19 quickly WEEK 2 CARAVAN PARK changed Paul Connelly's shared both Curnows and Hiskeys Huts TO MARSCHALLS HUT with a section hiker called Mel. We didn't plans. He needed to walk together, as she didn't think she'd pivot. With SA getting I found the urban areas challenging get to Hiskeys, so when she showed up, it when planning to camp. Initially, I was a pleasant surprise for both of us. their act together was worried about spending a night quickly, he dusted off at Woodhouse Activity Centre on a Highlights included following the Bundaleer Channel either side of Spalding, long-standing plans to Monday long weekend — especially after their online booking system the creek north of Crystal Brook with its hike the Heysen Trail. stated they were fully booked. But, big, bent, burnt, broken but unbowed once I arrived, I may have been gums, and the sunset overlooking the Gulf St Vincent from Go-Cart Track Shelter. WEEK 1 the only person staying the night! This week also included the closed CAPE JERVIS TO ROCKY CREEK section south of Cudlee Creek. On 1 June, I was dropped at the Heysen Fortunately, the charitable Heidi Trail trailhead at Cape Jervis by my from the 'Heysen Trail E2E Through The Natural Choice youngest son, Liam. After a handful of Hiking' Facebook group offered a lift quick sentimental photos, including around the fire-affected area. one of Liam's thumb, I began my The week's highlights included Bookings Essential journey north shortly before midday. hillwalking near Mt Lofty, koala The first week was bursting with highlights, sightings in Horsnell Gully, a cluster surrounded by parklands, with a short stroll to town including dolphins frolicking in the surf, of ladybird beetles sheltering in Scott's scores of monarch butterflies fluttering Shelter, seeing solid ice at midday Gary & Bronwyn Lucas | [email protected] on milkweeds, a vivid rainbow on Day 1, in a vehicle rut near Mt Crawford, Nature was constantly out on display. A Pandemic Pivot: Through-hiking the Heysen SPRING 2020 • 16

which gave me a set date, meaning I could enjoy a few shorter days. Highlights included meeting a section hiker called Alan at Buckaringa Gorge, following Wonoka Creek either side of Mayo Hut and meeting through-hikers Chris (who I'd met on Larapinta in 2018), then Rob and Craig in quick succession. Best of luck to those WEEK 7 attempting a Heysen

TO PARACHILNA GORGE (& BEYOND) Trail through-hike this season. The final days! After a short day to Middlesight Water Hut, I was joined Paul Connelly, Craig Masterman, by Corey, a fellow northbound Carl Greenstreet, Chris Finn, Hollie Whiting, Corey Phillips, Robert van through-hiker. We'd met on Day 1, Heerikhuize, Michael Shepherd, and I'd expected to bump into him Doug Dunsmore, Lucy Ella Rose, Above: I had the fortune of seeing the on and off along the way, but this Lachlan Dyer, Jak Allen, Alexander steam train near Pichi Richi Park and was the first time we'd crossed paths Campbell, Sean O'Gorman. again the following day in Quorn. since beginning the Trail. After HIKING FOR A CAUSE: Main: The vibrant glowing hills of the reaching the terminus, I camped at the Parachilna Gorge hikers camp, Ronan Banks (fundraising for Flinders Ranges. Nature Conservancy), Damian then walked out to Parachilna Fitzpatrick (and on to Mt Hopeless – the next day. Unfortunately, the fundraising for Operation Flinders), Prairie Hotel and the campground Bec Bazeley (fundraising for WEEK 5 at Parachilna was closed due to Beyond Blue), Dani Dutschke TO MT ARDEN SOUTH COVID-19, so I eventually hitched a [pictured] (fundraising for Uganda ride to Hawker. girls education), Holly Marquis The route took me up and over a couple (fundraising to save the Tarkayna), of large 'hills' — they might be called My final few days had one undeniable Britt Franzmann (fundraising for Mount Remarkable and Mount Brown, highlight — reaching the Heysen Trail's Di's Disney dream). but we don't 'really' have mountains northern trailhead. here in SA. The landscape becomes instantly dry north of Goyder's Line section including passing Eyre Depot where the tank is out of commission. GER EN T S R Extra water and a refilled food bag S A A N P SINCE

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from Quorn increased my pack weight P O

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I C Transport & Removals Week 5's highlights included scones with jam and cream in Quorn, seeing the steam train near Pichi Richi, trekking the ridgeline Explore the Mawson & Heysen Trails over Pichi Richi Park and spotting a through the Flinders Ranges, or potential fossil on the underside of a rock. discover the Fleurieu Peninsula WEEK 6 Regular bus services connecting TO YANYANNA HUT Adelaide and Copley, and the towns in-between. Passenger/freight Even though I was now deep into the timetables available online. Trail's arid north, the creeks were surprisingly full; not flowing but plenty of sizeable pools — some spring-fed, others brimming from the last rain. At 08 8552 4000 Calabrinda Creek, I almost unscrewed [email protected] the tank's tap spindle from its housing — fortunately I realised what was www.genesistransport.com.au happening before it became a disaster! As I was getting close to the end, I ON THE MOVE? RING US FOR A REMOVAL QUOTE booked my bus home from Parachilna, SPRING 2020 • 17

Photos: Anne Kirk Anne Kirk travelled north of the Heysen Trail's Parachilna Gorge terminus with the team Beyond the from Flinders & Beyond Heysen with Camel Treks. his isn't the typical challenging hiking story of experienced walkers Flinders exploring a well-worn trail. Instead, this is a tale of an adventure that removed me & Beyond Tfrom my comfort zone and left me with a plethora of wonderful lifetime memories. And, importantly, this is an Camel Treks experience I couldn't have imagined pursuing if I wasn't a Friend of the Heysen. It was on a TrailStarter hike ANNE KIRK in 2016 when I first heard about Camel Treks in the Flinders Ranges. Then, as I neared the end of the Heysen Trail with End-to-End 8, I firmed in my resolve to continue walking to discover the country further north. So, last year I booked in for the June 2020 trip and waited anxiously as COVID-19 hit and travel restrictions were introduced to protect regional areas. Thankfully, South Australia was ahead of the Pandemic curve, and the seed that was planted four years ago could finally be harvested. Firstly, I need to clear up a common misconception: camel treks through the Flinders Ranges don't include camel rides. As a group, we walked from Blinman to Yankaninna Station near Arkaroola, much to the relief of the desert packhorses carrying our belongings. Ryan and Natalie McMillan from Flinders & Beyond provided everything we needed, including swags, 'luggage transfers', meals and water along the arid journey. This luxury is what attracted me to the expedition — I could enjoy walking through the Northern Flinders without the burden of carrying a heavy backpack and planning where and what we would eat each day. The first part of my adventure started on the road to Blinman. I'd never driven so far alone before, so I decided to sightsee and stay overnight in Quorn — both prior to and following the experience. The camel trek officially Navigating the gorge at began at the Blinman property of Ryan Waukawoodna Gap and Natalie on a Monday afternoon Beyond the Heysen with Flinders & Beyond Camel Treks SPRING 2020 • 18

Above: A zebra finch enjoying a cool drink.

Left: The camels taking a break at Frome Creek on Angepena Station. when I met my fellow travellers, eight rugged gorges. As I hiked, I would 'Trekkers' and four 'Cameleers'. There think of those who had walked before would usually be only two Cameleers, me: Australia's indigenous population, but due to the COVID-19 restrictions, early explorers, settlers, miners and we enjoyed the company of four station workers. Troubled youth, based camel drivers, which made our trip at the Operation Flinders property solid rain for four years, but, despite extra special as we could absorb their in nearby Yankaninna, also passed the drought, the rustic colours of the insightful knowledge. through here each year. Our visit natural landscape were stunning. There didn't coincide with their trip, but The next morning we met the camels was still plenty of plant life to enjoy we lunched in the gorge where they and learnt about the packing up and with gum trees lining the route's dry abseiled. Even though many sets of loading process. We left the farm creekbeds. I also learnt to appreciate feet had transversed these lands before just after lunch and commenced our eating mistletoe berries and sweet lerps me, I pondered if, due to the region's adventure toward Angorichina Station from beneath the towering gums. extraordinary remoteness, I was, in across Adnyamathanha Country, first fact, the first person to step over the passing by the historic timber rocks that passed under my feet. shearing shed. “ However, I soon realised we weren't as The camel's average speed of “ isolated as I expected. While we were 3.5 km per hour guided our well and truly out of mobile range, leisurely pace throughout the Adnyamathanha means we did surprisingly cross paths with 163 km travelled over 15 days. 'people of the rocks' as they owners and workers from four outlying have a spiritual connection to stations. It is indeed a great privilege the rocks and ranges through for station owners to allow us to travel ” the region. over their private properties. These ranges are ancient, and we were lucky to see stromatolites — Sadly, we didn't encounter much evidence of the organisms which were wildlife due to the dry conditions, ” responsible for the build-up of oxygen though we did notice fresh tracks. There were countless rocks to navigate which contributed to first life millions This area of the Flinders hasn't had as we ventured through the country's of years ago. Beyond the Heysen with Flinders & Beyond Camel Treks SPRING 2020 • 19

Walking through the Flinders gives BLINMAN, SA you a greater appreciation of geology and how ranges are formed. Even the skies are stunning. Via Ryan's laser FLINDERS & BEYOND pointer tour, we observed the Milky CAMEL TREKS Way in our first week and then the Join us in 2021 on a trek Walking treks fully catered. Swags and transfers included. No roads, no full moon toward the end of our trip. that completes the Heysen vehicles, no mobile reception; detach Trail’s remote section from hectic everyday life and enjoy ‘Beyond Heysen’. an unforgettable experience that will “ create memories to last a life time. An unexpected bonus was Explore hidden treasures of the Flinders Ranges with camels carrying FOR MORE INFORMATION your supplies. Trek through gum-lined getting to know the camels... T: (08) 8648 3713 creek beds, towering gorges, rare several of which had starred geological formations and sparkling dry E: info@flindersandbeyondcamels.com.au in the movie "Tracks" lakes. See native flora and fauna in its natural habitat and enjoy a night sky ” laser show with astronomer Ryan. The camel's average speed of 3.5 km per hour guided our leisurely pace throughout the 163 km travelled over 15 days. Camels typically take it slowly moving over steep hills, which gave us the freedom to explore our own path, as long as we kept the team in sight. We were fed a different hot Contact us for 2021 trekking dates meal from the menu each night, while wraps, fruit, yummy fruit cake and hot billy tea from the fire were served for lunch each day. Roomy swags were provided, plus we stayed overnight at the Angepena Shearing Quarters, which was a pleasant surprise. An unexpected bonus was getting to know the camels: Cracker, Bubbles, Thomas, Taipan, Rolley, Mindi, Mona, Narie, Victor and Henry — several of which had starred in the movie "Tracks", though they were all stars in my eyes. Top: Our leader Ryan Once we reached the end, my welling leading the camels from tears were an indication of how the Blinman base. much I would miss the camels, my fellow travellers and the overall Bottom: Time for a rest Flinders experience. And we were all near Gammon Creek in Yankaninna. especially amazed by Ryan's ability to walk the entire way wearing Crocs! I would highly recommend walking with camels in the northern Flinders Ranges. The tour is suitable for everyone, whatever your experience. I hope to return sooner rather than later.

Flinders & Beyond Camel Treks offer a range of camel safaris in the Northern Flinders Ranges. The treks range anywhere from 3 to 21 days and can be tailored to suit your individual or group needs. Truth-telling: Black Lives Matter SPRING 2020 • 20

responsible for 40-60 deaths of Aboriginal men, women and children. Truth-telling: The numbers killed were later clearly crossed through in his diaries with 16 Black Lives Matter written above it in their place. “ Mark and Miranda in love in the early 1980s). Their For the Waters, this has been Waters explore their ancestors were McLeays and Frasers. an important journey in In 1854 John McLeay married Mary truth-telling and discovering geographical links to the McLennan, and his sister Christina their past. reported massacres in married Murdoch Fraser on the same day in the same church at a small the Aroona region. crofter's village in Scotland. Within ” three months the young couples got What if the Waters' progenitors were he anticipation of walking on a boat together in Liverpool, the part of this? Was there a dark past through the iconic Aroona "Marian", and sailed to Adelaide. Upon that they might have to reconcile? Valley is laced with arrival, John and Mary jumped on a Further research showed that the expectation for walkers bullock dray with a newborn child key dates for the owners' forays were that were approaching and travelled to the Flinders Ranges 1851 and 1852. The McLeays arrived Tthe end of the Heysen Trail. Old arriving in the middle of summer in in 1855; hopefully, there was no homesteads and information boards January 1855. The Frasers went to Port connection. Miranda also took solace describe a story of early settlement. Wakefield and settled there. from clippings from the local press However, little is the said about the John was Miranda's great great that indicated when the McLeays left original inhabitants. grandfather. Christina was Mark's the Flinders Ranges, due to drought a For one couple, the exploration through great, great grandmother. John McLeay few years earlier, the local Aboriginal this area was tinged with question went to herd sheep in the Flinders families wept at seeing them go. marks and apprehension. What if their Ranges based upon the skills he had For the Waters, this has been an ancestors had been part of the reported from Scotland. important journey in truth-telling and massacres in this region? What if they In 2018 the University of NSW had discovering their past. We can all be had a dark past in their family tree that released a map of massacres across open to such fresh knowledge and needed to be accounted for? the country. Their research had been confrontation of our own history. It This was the reality for Miranda and mostly based on the eastern seaboard, shows that ongoing reconciliation and Mark Waters as they trekked with End- but there were 6 reported massacres the black lives matter movement is so to-End 8. For Mark, it was a journey of local Aboriginal people in South essential right now; because history that reflected the work that he had Australia; one of them in the Flinders shows we have much further to go. done for the previous eight years as the ranges near Aroona Valley. State Manager of Reconciliation SA. The map used records from the time For Miranda, it was a true discovery The Friends' Reconciliation when the landholder Frank Hayward, tour. But first, a bit of back story. Committee meet with Aboriginal in his own diaries, described him stakeholders, Reconciliation SA and Miranda and Mark are fourth cousins taking the law into his own hands DEW to discuss opportunities for (found out after having met and fallen along with his stockmen and being sharing stories along the Heysen Trail.

Accommodation for the Heysen & Mawson Trails, CURNOWS HUT Mid-North SA 5kms from Bundaleer Reservoir 17kms from Spalding

HEYSEN TRAIL • Comfortable Homestead lodgings, BUNDALEER • continental breakfast included WEIR CAMPSITE • Evening meals and trail transfers 1029 Pipeline Rd, Gulnare

• available (pre booking required) BUNDALEER Harry & Sandy Osborn RESERVOIR • Powered & non powered sites for 0417 813 095 • self contained caravans [email protected] SPALDING • Tent Sites also available. www.ossiesfarmstay.com

Walking on Eyre SPRING 2020 • 21

quest to circumnavigate Lake Eyre (officially known as Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre) on foot. A meticulous planner, Warren explained that he and his walking companion Terry Kreig could not physically carry the supplies, particularly water, they would need in their estimated five-week walk. Now I'm not saying they're both strange, but that thought may have entered my head at the time… and several times thereafter! Their plan to fly in and deliver four supply caches at particular locations around the lake seemed outrageous, but, was this possible? Of course! I only had my helicopter licence for a year at that point and had actively flown this type of aircraft for six months. Still, I was no stranger to aviation, having accrued some 12,000 flying hours in aeroplanes over 16 years. A large chunk of my career had involved flying over inland Australia, including a five-year stint flying RFDS aircraft based out of Port Augusta. Walking Lake Eyre was in my patch. “ on Eyre Warren was very particular as to the DAVID HOGAN locations he planned to Terry Kreig,Warren leave his supplies. Bonython and David Photos: David Hogan Hogan on Lake Eyre. ” Warren was in luck, as part of the oil and gas exploration project in the — the latter being a former official David Hogan retells Cooper Basin, Delhi Petroleum had vehicle for the Tasmanian Governor. commissioned Geosurveys to carry his experience helping The subject of 'Minis' came up in our out a seismic program across Lake discussion, closely followed by the Warren Bonython Eyre. The lake was quite dry, and it 'Mini Moke'. Robert pointed out that he and Terry Krieg was Winter, searing temperatures and was a keen bushwalker and a member flies were non-existent. Geosurveys circumnavigate South of the 'Friends of the Heysen Trail'. Australia's Lake Eyre. had hoped to cross the lake using He went on to state that the instigator small Suzuki 4WD's fitted with oversize of the Heysen Trail was Warren tyres. While the idea sounded good, uring a recent Bonython and he also owned a Moke. the cars were a major fail, hopelessly conversation with a 'Yes', I responded, 'I have met Warren, bogging in no time. The solution was fellow Rotarian Robert and the Moke, plus the other co- to use lightweight buggies capable of Koehne, the subject of owner of that Moke, Terry Kreig'. That being slung beneath a helicopter; that's interesting old motor revelation quickly stalled the subject where I came in. vehicles came up. of old cars. D A preliminary survey was carried out I'm not saying he's strange, but he has In 1982, I was a pilot with Lloyd using a Bell JetRanger helicopter, fitted four eclectic old vehicles: a Mercedes Aviation based at Adelaide Airport with low-pressure floats (designed for Benz, Russian Lada, Land Rover when Warren Bonython enquired landing on water) rather than skids, Defender and a Humber Pullman about using a helicopter to assist his which were likely to break through Walking on Eyre SPRING 2020 • 22 the surface's soft crust. A bogged helicopter would be a serious and costly issue, not easily solved. Later, on my way north to commence the seismic program, I arranged to rendezvous with Warren at Muloorina Station, where I caught up and stayed with friends Malcolm and Colleen Mitchell. The JetRanger was loaded up and, with Warren sitting alongside me, his wife Bunty was squished in the back with water containers and supplies piled around her. This expedition was before the availability of GPS, and Warren was very particular as to the locations he planned to leave his supplies, easy enough to locate from the air but entirely different perspective from lake level. Having established the spots, Bunty Bonython urging her husband Warren on with Bell JetRanger in the background. Warren produced a shovel and had sand going in all directions as he dug a hole to bury the precious supplies. chicken wire to keep the wild dogs out, There were no frills living in a camp. I was amazed how fit he was, and then he jumped back on the shovel Conditions were primitive, and the Bunty urged him on! I had a German to fill the ditch, refusing my offer to days could be cold with the nights Shepherd at the time, and he was no help. With the four caches in place even more so. The wind blew, and slouch at digging holes, but Warren we returned to Muloorina, I bade this the dust blasted, oh, and the mud! would have put him to shame. Quite charming couple farewell and flew on However, we had access to bore water, remarkable for a man in his mid 60's. to a tent on the eastern shore of Lake could take hot showers, and we had a With their supplies ensconced in Eyre which was to be my home for the cook — I'm not stupid, I made friends the hole, Warren covered them with next 3-4 weeks. with him straight away! We also had a Cessna 206 supply plane land on Saturday, which may have had slabs of a bubbly brown amber liquid on

THE STABLES board (I don't drink, so I'm not sure), A UNIQUE BURRA EXPERIENCE but I do know there was none left on Sunday morning! METRES FROM THE TRAIL “ • Bunks & hayloft bedding • Sleeps up to six The official name changed • Short walk to pub, markets • Log fire & wood oven in 2012 to combine 'Lake Eyre' with the indigenous • Minimal electricity and tv • Cast iron hip bath name, Kati Thanda. The native title over the lake and surrounding region is held by the Arabana people. ” The hours were long, we were up before daybreak every morning, bar Sunday when we slept in, then cleaned and fixed our gear, did some Part of $ washing and relaxed. It was then Olive Grove 27 when I would think about Warren and Retreat T: 08 8892 2679 M: 0447 445 506 P/ PERSON Accom. E: [email protected] Terry doing the hard yards walking (Linen Extra) around the lake. No doubt about it, they were tough. Tough, but strange. Walking on Eyre SPRING 2020 • 23

As the seismic crew progressed across The seismic program was wrapping Six years later I was back on Lake Eyre, the lake, I was indeed a busy helicopter up soon, but I took the offending part only further north by the Warburton pilot. Nevertheless, I kept an eye out back to our camp to see what I could Channel. A Piper Warrior — a single- for the intrepid walkers and managed do. At first glance, there didn't appear engine light aircraft — apparently to catch them on a few occasions and to be much on offer, until I realised developed engine troubles and landed landed to say hello. tension springs on all the tents — on the lake. perfect! However, I didn't remove the Having landed safely, the aircraft spring from my tent — I didn't fancy was bogged; there was no taking off. “ it blowing down in the middle of the The three occupants were rescued by Terry asked jokingly if I night. A spring from someone else's helicopter shortly after. had a beer — maybe he tent made the supreme sacrifice and was feeling the pinch. went for a walk with Warren. When I Some weeks later, I was commissioned dropped it off, it was accompanied by a to use a helicopter to sling the downed 20-litre container of hot water. Warren aircraft back to the shore where repairs ” and Terry could have a well-deserved could be carried out, and a takeoff They were pleased to see someone, wash, scrubbed up, they may have attempted from a makeshift airstrip. anyone, even me — there aren't many come looking for another kiss, but they There was a setback. The Piper Warrior passers-by out there on Lake Eyre. On were too late, my job was done. I was had settled into very salty mud, and part one occasion, I was heading south to beating the air into submission on my of the propellor and both alloy main Leigh Creek to swap helicopters (mine way home. wheels were eaten away by corrosion; was due for maintenance), when I replacements were required. spotted them toiling along the lake's “ Muloorina was again our base camp, edge, so I landed. Walking on Eyre had to be and a helicopter was the only means Terry asked jokingly if I had a beer — a hard slog, kilometre after of accessing the site. The operation maybe he was feeling the pinch. On my kilometre of that harsh Lake was touch and go, but we managed. return journey later that afternoon, I Eyre environment is daunting Surprisingly, the aircraft's engine ran delivered four beers on ice, together perfectly — there was nothing wrong with that day's Adelaide newspaper. but Warren and Terry were with it. We surmised that the pilot They were so excited I thought they determined. deliberately landed to have a walk were going to kiss me; their bedraggled around; the so-called engine trouble appearance, amongst other things, put ” was a furphy. It appeared Warren and me off! Terry's up-close curiosity for Australia's Walking on Eyre had to be a hard largest lake was shared by others. Later — I think it was about day 10 of slog, kilometre after kilometre of their walk — our paths crossed again. that harsh Lake Eyre environment is I have been fortunate to see various This time Warren was having trouble daunting but Warren and Terry were floods on Lake Eyre, including the with the spring in the shock absorber determined. Despite being weather- highest recorded in 1974, with the of the towing handle on his cart. It beaten, dishevelled and tired, they resultant birdlife scarcely believable. had undoubtedly expired from too were steely-eyed and stoic; I knew they Lake Eyre really is an amazing place. much hard work. I offered to help. would succeed.

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SPRING 2020 • 24

Above: Views of Adelaide over the PAULEEN BOND region's autumn vineyards.

Main: Navigating the Hills' dense Exploring vegetation.

Ambers Gully (15km). So, instead of the Yurrebilla completing 54km, we totalled 76km. The Yurrebilla Trail is a wonderful Photos: Paul Bond experience complete with views across the city, challenging terrain, captivating history, and endemic flora and fauna. We chatted, laughed, swapped recipes and With an absense of had fortuitously allowed the public to examined interesting plantlife, all walk further afield. the while huffing and puffing up, organised hiking, and carefully walking down, the The next step was working out the Pauleen Bond, Anne Kirk trail's many hills. logistics. At that time, we couldn't and Paul Bond decided carpool; we, therefore, split the to hike Adelaide Hills' Yurrebilla into five separate walks. For “ Yurrebilla Trail. the first three, we parked, hiked a certain Hiking the Yurrebilla distance, then returned to our cars. Trail, during this time of ith the arrival of uncertainty, helped put our the Pandemic in “ senses back in order March, came the The traditional owners, disappointment the Kaurna people, called ” that we were Mt Lofty and Mt Bonython We thoroughly enjoyed every step unable to hike with organised Friends' 'Yurrebilla' — meaning of that 76km over those 5 weeks. I Wwalks for some time. Thankfully, the 'twin ears'. love the quote from John Burroughs South Australian Government had — 'I go to nature to be soothed and encouraged people to exercise locally. healed, and to have my senses put So, once a week for a few weeks, two to ” in order'. Hiking the Yurrebilla Trail, three of us would explore the various During our first walk from Belair to during this time of uncertainty, Belair trails, ensuring we abided by Brownhill Creek, we were able to cut helped put our senses back in order COVID-19 restrictions. Having hiked short the return hike from 9km to and affirmed our appreciation of nearly every inch of Belair, the idea 6km, giving us a total of 15km. The what an amazing world we live in. was suggested — 'Why don't we hike next week we hiked from Brownhill the Yurrebilla Trail'? Creek to Measdays Lookout and back The Yurrebilla Trail is a 54km hike again (17km), while the following week The 54km Yurrebilla Trail meanders from Belair to Ambers Gully. While we hiked Measdays Lookout to Ridge through eight conservation parks, we had walked parts of the track over Road, Greenhill and back again (15km). national parks and reserves; the years, we had never completed the We were again able to carpool for allowing hikers to follow the route journey. By the time we decided to hike the final two walks; from Ridge Road and be no further than 15km from the Yurrebilla, the state government to Morialta (14km) and Morialta to Adelaide's city centre. An Overland Track Diary SPRING 2020 • 25

An Overland Track Diary ADAM MATTHEWS

In March, eleven uggestions of tackling we began our seven-day adventure by the Overland Track had strolling along a boardwalk through members of End-to- circulated amongst our End- open grass plains before slowly End 12 completed to-End group throughout last climbing through a heavily wooded Tasmania's iconic year. Before long, a group gully beside a fast-flowing stream. had formed to go and do just that. In Before long, we arrived at Crater Lake. Overland Track. Little SMarch, eleven members of End-to-End Despite the rain, this was our first taste did they know, by the 12 set out on the trail. of the spectacular scenery we would time they reached encounter on the rest of our trip. We DAY 1 the end, the outside sheltered in a little boatshed from The previous day was a cracker, but yesteryear for a quick morning tea. world would be a today we were to be greeted with From here, we started the steep ascent different place. Tasmania's rebellious weather. After to Marion's Lookout where support being dropped off at Ronny Creek, chains are provided to assist hikers in pulling themselves up. Once on top, An Overland Track Diary SPRING 2020 • 26 we battled low-hanging cloud and gale- force winds. Thank God for walking poles; without them, I would have been Right: A misty blown off my feet. morning view of Crater Lake. The scenery at this height is beautiful, but I only say that from previous family trips. Today's weather was shocking, so we pressed on toward Main: Setting up for morning Kitchen Hut. I know this shelter well tea at the as my daughter and I stayed here historic boat overnight seven years ago on my first shed on Day 1. attempt at the Overland Track. On that occasion, after taking 5 hours to walk 5km in snowshoes, we found distressed hikers harbouring inside that had been stuck at Waterfall Valley Hut for three days. This was when I deemed it unsafe Photos: Adam Matthews to continue, and we returned to Cradle Valley. Anyway, that's another story for another article. After a hot drink, we were on our way. places. By now, the rain was constant, Surprisingly, the climb out seemed and the trail had turned into a creek. easier than the walk in. We began the ascent wearing single layers, though, The hut was bursting at the seams. “ as we neared the top, we applied all With the unruly weather settling in, By now, the rain was our gear to protect us from the frosty nearly all hikers in the area had opted constant, and the trail had conditions. You could see the moisture to utilise the shelter rather than brave turned into a creek. on our black jackets start to turn to ice. the elements in a tent. Most people went to bed early, and it wasn't long Apart from a few undulations, most of ” before we were all laid out like kids the day was downhill. After crossing After skirting our way around the base on a sleepover. The word 'sardines' a few icy boardwalks, the snow of the unseen Cradle Mountain, we was muttered by several parties. slowly faded as we dropped down arrived at a junction that would lead us into Waterfall Valley. Thankfully, DAY 2 to our first night's hut. In the coming panoramic views began to appear. Barn years, many of these old huts will be The next morning, we awoke to the Bluff is a side trip of 6km, 2.5 hours replaced, so instead of continuing to sight of snow covering the area's return, but we couldn't even see it, so the unavailable Waterfall Valley Hut as higher peaks. For most of the trip, we gave it a miss. Patagonia Torrentshell planned, we diverted to Scott Kilvert we broke into two or three groups as The sun even made an appearance as we Memorial Hut: a lovely shelter situated people trundled along at their own walked through the trail's open plains 3L Jacket near Lake Rodway. Unfortunately, all pace, though, with conditions as they and woodlands. Our group dispersed Exceptional waterproof/breathable the elevation we had gained earlier was were, we decided to stay as one large as some made the side trip to Lake Will soon lost, and we now had to retrace group this morning as we weren't (1.3km), while the others continued onto performance, all-day comfort and these steps on Day 2. For over 2km we sure what weather would greet us Windermere Hut; tonight's slightly less long-lasting durability. descended down, with steep steps in back at the track. squeezy accommodation. Simple and unpretentious, the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L Jacket uses 3-layer H2No® Performance Standard technology. Two-way-adjustable hood with a laminated visor rolls down and stows with a simplified cord-and-hook design. Microfleece-lined neck provides comfort and protects with a waterproof/breathable barrier. Two zippered handwarmer pockets and venting pit zips; all with welted exterior storm AVAILABLE IN BOTH MEN’S AND WOMEN'S STYLES flaps and DWR (durable water repellent)-treated zippers.

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DAY 3 was my favourite for the trip. As the DAY 5 weather had cleared, many hikers Stormy clouds saw us begin the slept in their tents, which left the hut Day 5 had us heading for Kia Ora Hut day's 15km in our wet weather only partially occupied. just under 9km away. A long gradual gear. Fortunately, temperatures climb through myrtle and eucalypt soon warmed, and only shirts were DAY 4 forests saw us arrive at Pelion Gap. needed. The scenery too turned more With mountain views surrounding Our rest day – HA! We had decided to spectacular. We hiked through open us, this four-way junction offered side climb Mt Oakleigh today. At just under button grass plains and into densely trips to Mt Pelion East (1461m) and, 10km and 500m elevation, it took us wooded forests, then onto boardwalks Tasmania's highest mountain, four hours to complete, including two around the edges of swamps and out Mt Ossa (1614m). breaks and a lengthy breather at the into spectacular mountain scenery. summit to absorb the unbelievable This intersection felt quite busy as Overall, Day 3 was my favourite day scenery. We equally enjoyed this walkers had dropped their packs and on the trail. A short side trip to River landform from the comfort of our hut headed off to bag their next peak; aside Forth Lookout left us gazing down later in the evening. The sunset view from this extra roadside luggage, we into valleys some 500m below. With was like watching the colours change had the track to ourselves most days. Mt Pelion West (1560m) on one side on Uluru. If you have the time, this is Some of our group went up Mt Pelion and Mt Oakleigh appearing on the a must. East as far as they felt comfortable, other, we were soon at Frog Flats — the while others continued onto Kia Ora. lowest point on the whole track (720m There is no order to how hikers use Talking to a group of young hikers above sea level). the huts, some people do two or three later, who'd attempted the Mt Ossa sections a day, while others reach huts Pelion Hut was to be our home for the climb, mentioned it was "quite hairy at from access tracks, get comfy for 2-3 next two nights as we had reached our the top", suggesting the route involved nights, then walk out. It's up to you to 'rest day'. Sleeping up to 60 people, this more rock climbing than hiking. create your own hiking itinerary. I can shelter was enormous. Half sleeping see myself talking 9-10 days in future From Pelion Gap, we descended area/half kitchen and dining, the hut and allowing time to experience the through a variety of landscapes and, contained balconies offering views Overland Track's many wonderful with the sun back out shining, we to die for. Unsurprisingly, Pelion Hut side trips. crossed our first snakes for the trip.

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Tonight's hut slept 24 at a push, but with the beautiful weather and loads of available tent platforms, the shelter wasn't too squeezy.

DAY 6

One of our first stops today was Du Cane Hut — an old trappers hut set amongst a thick forest, which we walked through for most of the day. The weather was a bit drizzly but still warm enough to not put on raincoats. Soon, we came to our first side trip for the day: D'Alton and Ferguson Falls. Leaving our packs, we set off down the steep track. We hadn't had much rain since Day 2, but we were amazed by the volume of water still raging over the falls. “ One of their leaders informed us of the possibility of 30mm plus of rain tomorrow, and gale-force winds the following day. ” Once back at the junction, we met Top: A view of a private tour group who walked the sun shining with day packs and stayed in private down on Mt huts each night — oh, the creature Oakleigh from our comforts! One of their leaders accommodation at informed us of the possibility of 30mm New Pelion Hut. plus of rain tomorrow, and gale-force Left: The icy winds the following day. This set conditions at high everyone's minds thinking about how altitude kept us on we would complete the trail. our toes. Further up, at the next junction, the Bottom: A gushing group split; some left to view Hartnett river after several Falls, while others continued up the days of rain at gradual climb toward Ducane Gap, D'Alton Falls. then downhill to our accommodation for the night. The split level Windy Ridge Hut was set in a thick forest, and, I assume, the last shelter to be upgraded in the area. The sleeping quarters were split into three large rooms with platform bunks in each, and the dining room set on the lower level. After tea, the conversation was steered toward the gloomy forecast over the next few days. Some of our party had decided they would walk to Narcissus Hut (10.5km) then catch the ferry back across Lake St Clair to Cynthia Bay — this being where An Overland Track Diary SPRING 2020 • 29

for the trip (as the ferry also stops here when requested), but due to the surprisingly clear weather, and the remaining daylight hours, we pushed A bleak but on. 10km to go. beautiful start. Cruelly, we saw our first glimpse of civilisation with 4km remaining; but, it was enough to lift our spirits. So, after one last push, we eventually finish one hell of a day's walking, at just over 27km in 9.25 hours. The forecast rain was now upon us, and we were soaked; with 1km to go, it wasn't worth stopping to put wet weather gear on. We took a quick photo of the official finishing spot, then dashed into the bar for celebratory drinks and most people finish their Overland 2m wide, when I spotted a platypus nibbles. From there, we said our experience. The rest wanted to attempt floating leisurely beneath the platform. goodbyes as the group dispersed to the last 15.8km from Narcissus Hut I called for her to look, but he had take buses, planes, cars or boats back to Cynthia Bay around the edge of the disappeared. From here, we entered a to Adelaide. A few of us went to the lake. Either way, the group required an dense subtropical forest full of ferns, delightful Derwent Bridge Hotel for early start, that was for sure. fungi, towering eucalypts, and, of tea — not the first time I've enjoyed course, mud. Inspecting the map's a fantastic meal in the middle of DAY 7 elevation chart, this section appeared nowhere in Tasmania. Thankfully, Up at 6am; on the trail by 7:30am. straightforward, alas, it wasn't. Small, that menacing forecast didn't Despite the early hour, we moved at but constant undulations, plus the eventuate. I wouldn't have liked to a reasonable pace on what seemed route's obstructive fallen trees, were have completed that final day walking to be a more manageable track. After energy-sapping. amongst those monstrous trees walking nearly 5km through scrub, through gale-force winds. open forests and sub-tropical areas, “ Trust me when I say, the scenery is we arrived at the turn-off to Pine Trust me when I say, the spectacular; photos don't do it justice. Valley — another side trip requiring an scenery is spectacular; Tasmania's Overland Track is a hike additional day to complete. A further photos don't do it justice. that everyone should experience, 5.5km later, we reached Narcissus Hut, either independently as we did, or in a enjoyed a final group morning tea, and private tour group. A track I will most farewelled those awaiting the ferry. We ” certainly revisit. continued to Cynthia Bay, splitting into About 6km from Narcissus Hut we our usual walking groups, without any discovered Echo Point. A small rustic signs of that forecast rain. hut that sleeps 8 people, 5 possums, The Overland Track is a 65km trek Suzanne and I soon found ourselves 10 rats and God knows what else. This through the heart of Tasmania's Cradle crossing a small creek, no more than was potentially going to be our last hut Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park.

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mountain biker was cautious and respectful of walkers, so there is no problem sharing the trail. The light fog was very evocative and gave the rest of the walk a lovely ambience. The trail keeps heading up, with a few turns, until reaching the Long Ridge Submit your Track, and eventually favourite Cleland Wildlife Park. short walks to We continued on to JON HOLBROOK Mt Lofty (because we the Editor could), but there is the option of turning right here and taking the Long Ridge track back to the start. Favourite Lofty is an excellent place to sit and enjoy the view (and coffee and cake), but there will be other people present, Short Walks especially on weekends. The Long Ridge track in Having completed the route again this year, there is now a nice new trail Chambers Gully. (the Steub trail) that, while clearly designed for mountain bikers with Photo: Jon Holbrook banked corners and steady gradients, is marked as a shared trail and allows one to reach the summit without having to use the Waterfall Gully – Mt Lofty track. I'm not sure that I'd want f you spend any time in The first part of the walk is a trail to race down it on a bike anyway, given Adelaide, it's easy to be managed by the City of Burnside and the size of the roo that I've seen there. reminded that we live in a is primarily an access track to reach different time to a lot of the Cleland. The trail's adjacent creek country. If you spend any time in appears to flow for the majority of “ the Adelaide Hills, you also realise that winter, and was in full gush, with the There are many ways to vary Iwe live in a very different place to the contents eventually ending up in First the tracks from and to your other major capital cities. Brisbane is Creek and then the Torrens. perhaps the only other city that comes starting point. close to having such an expanse of bushland within a short distance of the “ ” CBD. We are very blessed. I usually have a quiet word The Long Ridge track provides a nice We discovered Chambers Gully only to myself about the person loop and gives a view over the city. The last year when training for the last two who thought bringing whole circuit is not overly challenging, weeks of End-to-End 9. We don't have a blackberries to South though it is uphill for the first half and FF downhill for the second half. T O YOU lot of hills near home (beaches do have Australia was a good idea. N R U N O E a tendency towards flatness), so this C X This is a highly recommended easy S I T

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O ways to vary the tracks from and to F slightly and the climbing gets a bit The first time we did it may just have your starting point. The Avenza app is steeper (though never too steep). This ruined it for us, however. It was a also a great way of getting maps of SA is the point where I usually have a quiet typical Adelaide July day: cool and National Parks on your phone (though word to myself about the person who foggy, with the promise of if not rain there is much to be said for paper). thought bringing blackberries to South then at least some drizzle. We set off Australia was a good idea. DEW are from our parking spot on Waterfall having a good go at getting rid of them, Gully Road and resigned ourselves Do you have a favourite short walk but they're tough little so-and-so's. you’d like to share? Please send FOR ALL OUR UPCOMING WALKS, TRIPS AND EVENTS with the fact that we would likely get www.bigheartadventures.com.au a little damp and probably more than However, the eucalypts are gorgeous your article to The Editor at a bit muddy. and the birdlife prolific. The occasional [email protected] Our office is currently closed temporarily due to COVID19. We continue to operate remotely and will offer our local walking events and trips in South Australia as soon as distancing restrictions lift. Gary Pearce Solicitor

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