Morgan Bay Hotel

MORGAN BAY

LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or Mountain Club of South Africa. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information anyway. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own…take care!

NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: Please note that this is a web based guide, easy to change, so send corrections, additions & adjustments to [email protected] . You are welcome to print this out, e-mail or use the info for a better guide. Feel free! Please send me a copy. UMTATA There are more route guides on eas.mcsa.org.za . N2 EL DIRECTIONS: Take the N2 towards Umtata. Turn right onto the R349 to Kei Mouth. Turn R about 10km before Kei Mouth. Follow the signs to Morgan Bay. R349 On reaching Morgan Bay turn right at the junction towards the Morgan Bay Hotel. Stop for a cold beer or two. Then past the hotel along the beach front, over the small bridge and up the hill. The crags are through the gates on the sea side of the road. Double Mouth Campsite is about 3km down this road. KEI MOUTH Morgan Bay 80km from East London. The road is currently being tarred. Should be complete in 2006. MORGAN BAY

ACCESS: Is unrestricted. This is district council land HAGA HAGA under the control of Nature Conservation.

HISTORY: There has been a lot of climbing on the Morgan Bay cliffs in the last 30 years. Everybody thinks they are the first accentionists, because there are no fixed anchors and few signs of climbing. The prominent trad lines have already been climbed. Dave and Barbara Freer opened many of the lines & wrote the first route guide. The Natal Mountain Club held rock meets here in the 80s and Rhodes University (EL and Grahamstown) have climbed here on occasions. Apologies to all first accentionists whose routes are not correctly recorded. Thanks to Gavin Peckham for motivating the writing of the new route guide.

The hotel should have the new routes book. Please up date it or just say hi.

WHERE TO STAY: Morgan Bay is a holiday town. With a great beach, surfing & of course lots of climbing. Click on www.morganbay.co.za/

Morgan Bay Hotel: Has good food, pool tables, TV and a pub with cold beer. They also provide a variety of other accommodation. Prices are really reasonable. This is a serious option if the family is coming with. They also run the information service & arrange alternative entertainment. The hotel has a bottle store! Contact: 043-8411062, 043-8411225, 083 455 8022, [email protected] , morganbayhotel.co.za www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Morgan-Bay-Hotel/194130747326185

Double Mouth Nature Reserve: has a great campsite on the beach and is quite cheap. Look out for fossils on the wave cut flat rock in front of the campsite. Bring your own drinking water to be safe. Lots of grass & shade. Will be crowded/full in December & over Easter. Booking only necessary in peak season. Tel 043 736 9909

Morgan Bay Camp Site: Great camping next to the lagoon. Lovely for kids. Book at the Morgan Bay Hotel. Yellowwood Campsite: Slightly far from the climbing. Awesome natural, shaded & a bird lover’s paradise. Ever so slightly eccentric. Have a pizza shop during the high season & on occasions can supply a few cold beers. A highly recommended stay. Contact Sean & Robin Tel/Fax: 043-811598 Cell: 0722162197 e mail [email protected]

Midford Lodge: This is the closest hotel to the crags. Has food & a pub. Tel 043-8411510 or 083 320 3513

The Top Shop: has the basics, post office and more.

SECURITY: not a big issue. Take the usual precautions. Keep your valuables out of site. Don’t leave valuables in the tents. Police Tel: 10111

YELLOW WOOD MEDICAL: Ambulance service 10177 TO R349 CAMPSITE or 043-7263350. TOPSHOP Kei Mouth clinic: 0438411274 2ND GATE FIRST S32°42’51.3” GATE ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES: The area E028°19’48.3” S32°42’45.1” where the cliffs are is not currently TO officially protected. Don’t get caught E028°20’00.2” CAMP DOUBLE trashing the place by the locals. SITE MOUTH 1. Resist the urge to test your MIDFORD 4x4…stay on the track and in the LODGE parking areas. Vehicles are destroying the grass land on top. The area on top should have zero access to vehicles. MORGAN BAY BEACH 2. Please pick up any litter found & HEADLANDS HOTEL bring it out. Yes… we know it wasn’t you, but there is nobody else who will pick it up. If folks are seen littering…give them gas. 3. Resist the urge to throw stones or role rocks…unless it’s on a route. 4. Taking a dump: Try to use civilized toilets at the hotel or campsite. When you simply have to go for a bos kak, please head down to the wave cut platforms where the waves can wash it away. Or crap on a flat stone and throw it into the sea. Making sure there are no fishermen below.

5. People talking about building on the cliff top are to be pushed off…forthwith!

USING THE GUIDE: Morgan Bay MB 1. Nobody carries a compass anymore. Thus directions are Double Mouth DM given using Morgan Bay & Double Mouth as general direction Left L indicators. As well as seaward & landward. This keeps it fairly Right R simple. This is necessary, as there are folks from Natal who will also be using the Left Hand LH guide. 2. Abbreviations used are also very basic. Wow…that is basic. Can it be simpler? Right Hand RH 3. Maps indicate general layout. They are not in scale. Paths & tracks on the maps Carnival Is Over CiO indicate general direction only. In most cases the grass is short enough to walk or drive all over the place.

SAFETY & WARNINGS: Remember climbing is always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. Just go home before the risks become too high. 1. Use a helmet. There are lots of loose rocks. 2. Costal environment such as MB is highly corrosive. Bolts should be treated as suspect soon after placing them. Stainless steel just does not last. 3. Wash your gear in fresh water as soon as you get home. Aluminium just does not last. Especially after climbing on the wave cut platforms. Don’t wash them at DM or MB campsite…tap water is fairly salty. 4. Walk-ins on grass become very slippery when wet. 5. Watch the tides when choosing an area. Especially on the wave cut platforms. Look out for large waves. They do happen every day. 6. Always pick up your wife before going to the pub at the hotel. 7. Make sure you pitch your tent before going to the pub. 8. Watch out for puffadders & Natalians in the grass, cracks…everywhere. There are quite a lot of these fiendish critters in MB & DM. 9. Bring your own drinking water if staying at Double Mouth. The tap water is from the river & is undrinkable. The tank water is often not that clean.

BEST SEASON: MB offers all year round climbing. Winter has low rain fall & is very mild. But cold brings out the moisture from with in the rock & there is quite a lot of condensation. In summer it’s hot…so move to a shaded crag. Sea breezes cool everything down to acceptable levels. There is more rain in summer, but the crags dry very quickly. Best possible conditions are: westerly berg wind with equinox low tide. When all these conditions are in a line…its time to get down to sea level stuff.

1ST HEADLAND

This is the headland closest to Morgan Bay village. Park on the L just after the concrete weir or follow the track through the first gate.

TRACK FROM FIRST GATE

CASSINGA

S32°42’53.3” PARKING S32°42’51.9” E028°20’12.7” PROMETHEUS E028°20’09.8” LUST OR LOVE MI5 BAY WATCH KREMLIN ANGEL WALL STACK BIRD’S WAVE CUT LANDING PLATFORM CALAFORNIA S32°42’53.0” S32°42’53.3” DREAMING S32°42’50.5” E028°20’12.9” E028°20’09.7” PROMISED LAND E028°20’10.6”

BAY WATCH

Park just after the small bridge. Follow the fisherman path along rocky beach. Bay Watch is the first low crag.

1. Nein - 11 A.E.Luck July 2001 (solo) 7m R of chimney. Up easy line. 2. Delta Force - 13 A.E.Luck July 2001 (solo) 4m R of chimney. Up good R trending crack. 3. Windmill Windmill - 11 D.C.Marshall July 2001 (solo) 3m R of chimney. Climb easy blocks. 4. No Hassle - 13 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2001 (T) 2m R of chimney. Climb up to small ledge and up short L facing corner 5. Eagle Fly Free - 12 D.C.Marshall 2001 July (solo) Start just R of chimney. Move R onto ledge. Very arbitrary route 6. Time Marches - 12 D.C.Marshall 2001 July (solo) Climb the chimney. 7. POTENTIAL 9 7 8 5 4 3 2 10 6 1 8. Silicone Delight - 15 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2001 (T)

Climb crack 3m R of LH end of face. 9. Revolution Now - 12 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2001 (T) Climb the blocky R trending line that starts L and exits up L facing V-groove at top 10. Bambino – 10 G.Peckham 07/07/2002 (solo) Climb the line of short recesses immediately L of arête at LH end of face.

6 ANGELS WALL

About 10 meters along the rocky beach in the DM direction, is a wave cut platform. Only to be climbed at low tide on a very calm day.

1. Pixie – 10 G.Peckham 05/01/2003 (T) 4m R of Cupid. 2. Cupid - 9 G.Peckham 19/12/2002 (T) 10 9 8 7 5 Start at bottom RH corner of small face to R of On 4 3 the Outside Looking In and climb the obvious L

2 trending, stepped line on excellent rock. If you’re a 11?? grand mother and an old one at that….this could 1 have been your line (except Peckham nabbed it first). 3. On the Outside Looking In – 10 G.Peckham 19/12/2002 (T) Stem op outside of chimney. 4. Gung Ho – 13 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 19/12/2002 (T) Climb the pile of suspect blocks R of Water Baby. 5. Water Baby – 8 D.C.Marshall 19/12/2002 (S) Chimney 3m R of Where Angels Fear to Tread. 6. Where Angles Fear To Tread – 18 Dave Freer & Pete Hawkes April 1982 (T) Up crack in middle of face. Move 1m R into excellent vertical crack line. 7. Even Demons Tremble - 16 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 19/12/2002 (T) Start as for Where Angels Fear to Tread. Continue straight up V-shaped recess to top. 8. Role over Rover - 17 G.Peckham & Bugs Sprous 05/01/2003 (T) 1m L of Where Angels Fear to Tread. Up to sloping block in recess. Step L onto face, then up. 9. PROJECT +-23 10. Fallen Angel – 16 Bugs Sprous, G.Peckham & Anthony van Tonder 05/01/2003 (T) 3m L of Where Angels Fear to Tread. Climb the easy obvious line. 11. Frigidaire Chimney – 11 Dave & Barbara Freer July 1982 (T) This route has not been located yet. Original RD reads: Above the shelf just after the Angel Wall shelf. Reached by abseiling from the top of a grungy gully. Climb a straight chimney starting 3m off the deck (this is grade 18). The climb is infested with sand worms, wetness and loose flakes. About 12m long. Only recorded to stop any one from wasting their time doing it again. A heap of shit.

PROMETHEUS

Park just after small bridge. Follow fisherman path along rocky beach. Take the path over Baywatch and Angels Wall. Prometheus is on the land ward side of the path, between Baywatch and Angels Wall. 1. Prometheus – 17* Dave Freer & Pete Hawkes March 1982 (T) Start up slight over hang, straight up face. 2. Icarus - 13 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 19/12/2002 (T) The line immediately left of Prometheus. 3. Pegasus –14 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Climb the LH side of Y- shaped crack. Follow L trending cracks. 4. Mercury – 12 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 01/02/2004 (T) Climb the very short and easy line on boulder to the MB side of Prometheus, using rails and the arête. Cute!

LUST OR LOVE

Continue along the path past Prometheus. Lust or Love is on a grassy ledge just above some rocks forming a cave over a dangerous chimney.

1 1. Shagadelic - 12 5 8 2 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 9 6 4 3 2001(T) 10 7 1m L of RH end of crag. Up and L. 2. Tease Me! Please Me! – 10 CAVE D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2001 (T) 2m L of Shagadelic. Up and trending R. 3. Keeping Abreast – 14 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 19/12/2002 (T) 1m L of Tease Me! Please Me! Climb up to large ledge then up L facing corner. 4. Ukuzoma - 11 D.C.Marshall July 2001 (solo) Start around the blunt arête to L of Keeping Abreast . Move R across a ledge to a L facing open book. 5. One Up One Down - 14 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2001(T) Open book, chimney. 6. Liquor is Quicker – 11 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 19/12/2002 (T) Start 3m L of One Up One Down. Up the short face on flaky jugs to a large ledge. Then up short bulging face. 7. Lady Star Light - 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2001 (T) Climb the thin line between the open book and arête. Gain the ledge. Climb the last short face close to the arête (to L of the short L facing corner) 8. Candy’s Dandy – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2001 (T) Climb the open book. 9. Give it to Me Baby - 15 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2001(T) Start 2m L of Candy’s Dandy. Climb the ramp; use the same exit as Candy’s Dandy. 10. Climax – 19 Gavin Raubenheimer & Anthony van Tonder 07/01/2003 (T) Start up same off width as Don't Believe Her. Rail R for 4m to reach under clings. 11. Don't Believe Her - 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2001 (T) Climb the off width on the far L. Traverse L near the top.

SCRAMBLE DOWN CALIFORNIA S32°42’53.3” E028°20’12.7” DREAMING 5 8 7 9 6 4 3 BIRD’S LANDING 15 SEMI-FREE S32°42’53.0” SECTOR 17 STANDER E028°20’12.9” 10 16 18 2 Take the first gate to the left 14 13 12 11 1 traveling from Morgan Bay to 26 Double Mouth. The track to the 27 28 left leads to parking on top of the First Headland. Find the OCCUPIED steep passage (easy chimney). TERRITORIES The first free stander on the MB WAVE CUT PLATFORM side of California Dreaming SHARK FIN Sector is Birds Landing.

BIRD’S LANDING

1. Apple Crumble - 19 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall Jan 2002 (T) Loose, blocky line to the right of So Few are so Free. Avoid! 2. So Few are so Free – 16* D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck Jan 2002 (T) Perfect crack in centre of seaward face. SEA DOG FACE: This is the face on the DM side of Birds Landing. 3. Stolen Thunder - 17 Ian Schwartz & Stuart Middlemiss April 1992 (T) Climb the middle of the steeper slab immediately R of descent path. 4. Nowhere Man – 15 Dave & Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes (T)

Start up rotten crack/ledges in the centre of the recess that separates the two smooth faces. Up for 8m till it begins to over hang. Step across to the RH crack. Finish up the RH crack. 5. Penny Lane – 12 Dave & Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes (T) Start in big recess and climb the crack L of Nowhere Man. Use the R wall and then the L half way up. Break L and finish on a series of ledges. 6. Sleeping with the Dog - 20 Stuart Middlemiss & Ian Schwartz April 1992 (T) Climb the prominent crack in the highest wall to the L of the descent gully. 7. California Dreaming – 15* Dave & Barbara Freer July 1982 (T) Climb the double crack system on the LH side of the second face. The LH crack curves to the R for about 4m before becoming a V-shaped groove. Start up RH crack. 5m up move into LH crack and up the V-shaped groove. 8. Systematic Selection – 14 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 10/07/2005 (T) 3m R of Storm Trooper of the Dark Ride, up an off width through a small roof. Continue up beyond this to a belay where the grass starts. The following routes are on the small semi-free stander on the DM side of the narrow ledge. All are a bit short. 9. Storm Pooper of the Dark Tide – 18 Gavin Peckham & D.C.Marshall 10/07/2005 (T) Prominent crack on the semi-free stander on the DM side. Gavin insisted on calling it this. 10. Before The Seventh War – 18 12m D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 10/07/2005 (T) Open book 1m L of Storm Trooper of the Dark Ride. Through the roof & up the crack on the sea face. 11. PraHAA – 13 10m D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 10/07/2005 (T) L trending diagonal crack. Loose and shit. 12. Surfer Girl - 15 9m A.E.Luck & C.Bester 10/07/2005 (T) Crack just L of L trending diagonal crack. 13. Seal Wolf – 12 9m C.Bester & A.E.Luck 10/07/2005 (T) Up easy crack. 14. Beach Bums – 15 9m A.E.Luck & C.Bester 10/07/2005 (T) Easy slab steps. 15. Beach Boys – 15 9m A.E.Luck & C.Bester 10/07/2005 (T) Easy slab steps around the corner.

The following routes are reached by abseiling from a large boulder at the base of Storm Trooper of the Dark Ride. Abseil onto a large ledge about 10m below. The wave cut platform below, about 4m above sea level, is The Occupied Territories, which is part of The Promised Land.

16. Surfing USA - 18 10m A.E.Luck & C.Bester 10/07/2005 (T) Crack system with large ‘V’ ledge just L of chimney on the DM side of large ledge. 17. No Smoke No Fire – 15 10m A.E.Luck & C.Bester 10/07/2005 (T) Chimney on DM side of large ledge. 18. This Too Shall Pass – 9 8m C.Bester & A.E.Luck 10/07/2005 (T) Crack system up blocky steps.

PROMISED LAND CAR PARK START OF PATH GOLON HEIGHTS S32°42’51.9” S32°42’52.8” GOLAN HEIGHTS E028°20’09.8” E028°20’10.2” CALIFORNIA 2 DREAMING This band of rock is about 30m below the 1 3 4 5 6 SECTOR car park on the First Headland. The routes are short (about 10m on average), but the 19 - 21 22 rock quality is stunning and is rarely 7 - 14 15 23 24 25 affected by tides. Work your way down 16 17 using a series of breaks in the rock bands. 26 - 29

18 1. Hey There – 17 WAVE CUT OCCUPIED Garvin Jacobs & William Lesley 10/07/2005 PLATFORM HIGH POINT S32°42’50.5” TERRITORIES WAVE S32°42’53.3” BETWEEN WAVE CUT PLATFORM (T) E028°20’10.6” E028°20’09.7” CUT PLATFORMS Slab sea ward face of small buttress 8m on the DM side of prominent V-crack with roof, The Glory. 2. Thou Shalt Not – 13 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 06/04/2002 (T) Short easy crack.

3. The Glory – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 06/04/2002 (T) Climb the large V-crack past the roof. 4. Shoulder to Cry On – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 06/04/2002 (T) Off width into chimney. 5. Manna – 13 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 06/04/2002 (T) Up blocky face and through roof. 6. Wake Up – 14 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 06/04/2002 (T) This is a perfect easy crack.

GAZA STRIP

Below THE Golan Heights there are a series of large ledges close to the sea. They are separated by high ground which from the sea are actually a series of chimneys. Descend on the DM side 3 to find Gaza Strip. This is 2 a low tide ledge. Do not 1 4 6 bother at high tide or in 5 rough seas. Routes are recorded from the most DM end of the large ledge….back towards the scramble down.

7. Mossad – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 06/04/2002 (T) RH chimney. 8. Moses – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 06/04/2002 (T) Climb the funny crack system that at first is hidden. Start in the L side. Move a bit R about 9m up. 9. Mother of Moses – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 06/04/2002 (T) Up the flaring V-shaped chimney. 10. Heroes Don’t Cry – 16** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 06/04/2002 (T) Up the obvious crack system. 11. Hail of Rocks – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 06/04/2002 (T) Hand crack into off width. 12. Escape or Die – 14 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 06/04/2002 (T) Climb the thin crack up steps. 13. Hail of Metal – 13 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 06/04/2002 (T) Open book chimney. 14. Broken Promises – 10 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 07/04/2002 (T) Broken stepped, blocky ramp. 15. The Point of No Return – 11 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 14 7 07/04/2002 (T) 8 9 10 Up stepped easy face.

11 12 13 15 The following routes are round the corner on the walk in, towards the high point. 16. My Father’s House – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 06/04/2002 (T) Flaky start to L of pool. Curving crack into large off width with no gear. 17. Project D.C.Marshall

R trending crack to the R. Just too wet to start with.

An abseil from My Father’s House to a ledge below will enable you to find the awesome Parting of the Sea. Take a costume, a beach towel and a water proof rack. The first ascensionists were chased off this ledge and completely soaked before and during the climb. Fun! Absolutely! 18. Parting of the Seas – 19 A.E. Luck & D.C.Marshall 06/04/2002 (T) Abseil down green seaweed face to wave cut platform. Climb the big chimney on the MB side of the ledge, till you reach the high point. Only in extremely low tide with a strong berg wind.

OCCUPIED TERRITORIES

This area is found on the MB side of the high ground. Some tricky scrambling leads to ledges just above the sea. Good climbing at low tide and during a berg wind. Routes are recorded starting with those closest to DM and ending with those closest to MB.

19. Secret Promise – 12 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 07/04/2002 (T) Climb the short easy line on the LH side of the slab, starting at the top of the high ground. 20. Deuteronomy – 14 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 07/04/2002 (T) Start in the chimney below the slab. Then up on the RH side of the easy slab. 21. The Exodus – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 07/04/2002 (T) The line to the R of Deuteronomy. 22. The Commandment – 17 40m D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 7 April 2002 Start in an open book. Becomes loose, slimy and scary higher up.

The following routes are about 10m towards MB and down some scary scrambles.

23. Duke of York – 14 G. Peckham & D.C.Marshall 14/12/2002 (T) Climb the L facing corner to a ledge at the base of a chimney. Up the short face on the R using round holds, to gain a ledge. Up another short face to a belay ledge. 24. Yom Kippur – 14 D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 14/12/2002 (T) Start just R of Duke of York. Climb up to reach the start of a V-shaped recess formed by a long flake. Up this to a short open book to a ledge. Up another short face to a belay ledge. 25. His Bal’as -16 with aid D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 14/12/2002 (T) Start just R of Yom Kippur. Up two finger cracks to a sloping ledge and a short corner crack. Will have to pull on gear if wet. Gain a ledge. Up another short face to a belay ledge. 26. Mission Motherland – 17 D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 14/12/2002 (T) Start a few meters R of Hisbal’as. Up an on balance open book to below a roof. Move L below roof. Easiest line to gain a ledge. Up another short face to a belay ledge. 27. Winter Heart’s Guild – 19 28m D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 10 July 2005 (T) Slightly to the MB side of Mission Motherland. Up an easy start to the R of the slab arête. Break L onto the arête. Up into a small open book. Top out trending L. 28. Tempting Moses – 17** 35m A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 10 July 2005 (T) Up an easy R facing open book 1m R of Winter Heart’s Guild. Onto a large ledge. Up a loose off width open book behind the face. The route ends in the California Dreaming. 29. Green Death – 14 15m D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 10 July 2005 (T) 4m R of Winter Heart’s Guild, up tricky slippery ramp to the big ledge. Across the ledge to the low point in the ledge path of California Dreaming. Walk out using the steep scramble chimney or abseil from the point below Storm Trooper of the Dark Ride. See California Dreaming. MI5

This small but pleasant crag can be found above Cassinga Wall, but further out towards the sea. Park on the First Headland. Look for a steep walk down. Face is better seen from the Second Headland. Routes are listed land ward to sea ward.

1. Spear Head – 11 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck Jan 2003 From the walk-in, traverse under the crag to a diagonal crack on the LH side. Up this. 2. Special Branch – 13 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2002 LH perfect crack. 3. CIA – 16 Matt Long & D.C.Marshall July 2002

Perfect crack L of open book. 4. Top Secret – 17 A.E.Luck & Matt Long July 2002 Open book. CASSINGA WALL Cassinga Wall is the wall, which starts at sea level, on the MB side of the gully which separates the First and Second Headlands. Park between the two headlands. Walk down the grassy gully to the rocky beach.

1. The Endless Steppes – 10 D.C.Marshall Aug 2002 (T) Very short easy line about 5m L of Agent Orange. 2. Savannah – 11 D.C.Marshall Aug 2002 (T) Another short easy line. 2m L of Agent Orange. 3. Agent Orange – 13 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 07/07/2002 (T) Start 2m L of Cassinga. This is the crack which starts on the L and runs diagonally R. 4. Fear and Flight – 12 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 07/07/2002(T) Start 1m L of Cassinga. Crack starting R and running across Agent Orange, forming an ‘X’. 5. Cassinga – 17** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck Nov 2002 (T) This is the prominent line that follows the overhanging, stepped, open book. 6. Golden Eye – 9 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 07/07/2002 (T) Diagonal RH crack. Easy but, quite nice. 7. Crazy Mary – 13 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 07/07/2002 (T) Triangular cracks. Traverse R to slab. Top out. 8. Stalingrad – 16 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 07/07/2002 (T) On balance open book. 15m 9. Spetznat – 15 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 07/07/2002 (T) Crack into stepped chimney. 25m 10. Siberia – 15 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 07/07/2002 (T) Crack just R of Siberia. Traverse to gain thin cracks L of slab. 25m 11. Buffalo Bastards – 15 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 07/07/2002 (T) Climb the line just L of the prominent chimney. 12. We Didn’t Start the Fire – 18 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 07/07/2002 (T) Up the chimney.

SMALL SEA STACK: This is the tiny stack between the First and Second Headlands. The routes are short but, sort of sweet. Low tide is best…..to say the least. Gavin Peckham was lining these tiny lines up for himself. Not sure what it is about free standing stacks…its very phallic. Luckily we managed to snake him this time.

13. Evolution Crack – 14 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck Aug 2002 (T) This is the crack on the land ward side of 3 4 5 6 7 9 101112 the stack. It is wet and can only be done 8 13 on an extreme low and during a berg wind. 1 & 2 14 If you must…take extra chalk. BOULDER BEACH SMALL SEA STACK 14. Stack Attack – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall Aug 2002 (T) Step onto the side of the stack from the DM side. A better option than Evolution Crack.

SECOND HEADLAND

Traveling from Morgan Bay turn left through the first gate. Follow the track along the fence. Park at the end of the fence. This is the Second Headland.

CASTAWAYS AFGANISTAN BIONIC MAN

MEMORIAL KINDERGATEN SLAB

KREMLIN CATFISH COVE STACK STORM PUFFADDER BRINGER OVER GODZILA BOARD LANDS END BUTTRESS THE PLATFORM

AFGHANISTAN

This area can be reached by parking above the gully between the First and Second Headlands. Walk down the gully. The routes are to be found on mess of rock on the DM side of the gully.

LOWER AFGHANISTAN 1. From Russia with Love – 14 C.Bester and A.E.Luck July 2002 (T) This is the first conceivable route on the DM side as you walk down the grassy gully. It’s very stepped and broken. Enjoy!

The next two routes are slightly further down the gully and more towards DM. 2. Rasputin – 17 A.E.Luck & Matt Long July 2002 (T) Climb the big, broken and loose open book. 3. Loose Rock 101 – 15 Matt Long & A.E.Luck July 2002 (T) Up broken steps into crack, R of roof. Matt threw more crap off this route than the entire US forces dropped in Afghanistan in the same year.

The next sector is sea ward of the scramble to gain the ramp which leads to Upper Afghanistan. The routes end at the top of the ramp. 2

3 11

4. Black Adder - 14 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 07/07/2002 (T) This route starts a few meters L of the scramble to the upper sector. Climb the off width L trending crack till it merges with The Kremlin. Up easy slabs to the top. 5. The Kremlin – 17 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 07/07/2002 (T) Start about 5m L of Black Adder climb the vertical crack till you are under the block. Step R and climb the easy slabs to the top. 6. Russian Roulette – 18 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 07/07/2002 (T) Climb the easy stepped off width about 5m L of The Kremlin. 7. MIG – 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 07/07/2002 (T) About 5m L of Russian Roulette. Climb climb the RH crack in the L facing corner. 8. Nikita – 18 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 07/07/2002 (T) Climb the LH crack of the L facing corner. 9. Rag Head – 13 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 07/07/2002 (T) Start close to where the wave cut platform begins. Up easy stepped line to ledge walk off to the R. 4 8 10. Goose Step – 17 10 9 7 6 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 07/07/2002 (T) 5 Starting at the water line traverse L SCRAMBLE OVER SLABS TO UPPER AFGANISTAN to a good easy crack. Up stepped line. Moving L near the top.

UPPER AFGHANISTAN

ABSEIL The following routes are set on a level above. Scramble up POINT a ramp to a bit of grass. There is a fallen rock on the sea ward side which forms a small dark cave. The commercial abseil runs down largest buttress, with a chimney on the R. The routes are listed from the bottom of the ramp Left wards. 17

11. Rolling Stones - 17 16 14 15 13 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2002 (T) 12 Easy loose crack. SMALL CAVE 11 12. Rambo-who? - 17

A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2002 (T) 18 Chossy loose chimney. 13. Buckets Full of Bastards – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2002 (T) Start in crack to R of chimney. Onto ledge. Up face onto bouldery ledge. Hard move to top out. Last move is about 19. 14. Panty Less – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2002 (T) Chimney to R of abseil point. 15. The Afghans - 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2002 (T) Up short face L of commercial abseil point. Onto ramp, into off width chimney to L. Through blocky roof to abseil point. 16. Hell in a Bucket - 15 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck Aug 2002 (T) If you are into dirt, loose rock and grass….this is for you. Total crap! 17. Breakfast with the Taliban – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck Aug 2002 (T) Diagonal crack past small roof. Just to the R of the small cave.

The following route is on a small face which is set below the rest of the routes and slightly sea ward. 18. Illusion and Fear - 20 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 22/03/2004 (T&3RB) Find the small face. Climb the wide open book recess. Up this to the top. Thin gear!

OVER BOARD

This area is situated sea ward of Afghanistan and can be reached by going slightly down and around the small face which is home to Illusion and Fear. About 12m sea ward is the small Over Board crag. Alternately: park on the Second Headland and descend as for Lands End. Over Board is just past Lands End on the MB side. Routes are recorded L to R. 1. Rocky Track - 13 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Not a good route. The name says it all. 2. Money Penny - 16 D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) Up the arête. Move L near the top. Belay off high point to L. 3. Shaken Not Stirred – 20* A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Up fairly nice looking crack. 4. Sleuth - 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Chimney. 1 3 2 4

LANDS END

This rather short crag hosts a number of fine easy routes. Ideal for beginners learning to lead trad. Park at the end of the track on the 2nd Headland. Walk down the ridge, turning 7 right before walking off the edge. The path left leads seaward to Lands End.

6 1. African Star - 14 D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) 1 Climb the crack L of the recess, which has 2 5 the large dangerous block. 3 4 2. Treason - 14 D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) Up the L side of large recess. The block is dangerous! Through the roof to the L. 3. So Long Mary Ann - 14 D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) Up the R side of large recess. The block is dangerous! 4. My Eye On You – 18** A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Climb the obvious large crack. 5. Not all There - 15 G.Peckham & G.Raubenheimer 2002 (T) Start between My I On U & Wind Blast. Climb the obvious but thin line that tends slightly R. 6. Wind Blast - 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Start on the R. Up the L trending diagonal crack. 7. Windgap - 10 Kendyl Kunhardt & D.C.Marshall 2001 (T) Climb the easy recess on the R.

KINDERGARTEN CRAG

This small crag is a few meters from the car park on the 2nd Headland. All the routes are high-ball or boulder routes. Routes are listed L to R. We all know Gavin sand bagged these routes so add a grade or 2 to get the true grade.

1. Miss Muffed – 9 G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (S) Up the wide R trending crack. 2. Rock On Top – 10 G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (S)

Up the chimney capped by a large chock. 3. Wydsbeen – 10 G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (S) Up the flaring chimney to the R of Rock On Top. 4. Jack Horner’s …Corner - 10 G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (S) Up the sloping corner. 5. Rocking Horse – 9 G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (S) Up the crack. 6. Simple Simon – 9 G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (S) Climb the crack with the wedged boulders. 7. Humpty Dumpty - 10 G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (S) Climb the Lay back.

MEMORIAL SLAB

Situated directly below two memorial stones at the end of the track. This awesome slab may need a few bolts to TO CAR be led safely. PARK

1. Uit Die Blou van Ons Se Hemel – 22 Hein & Cillier Stapelberg Dec 2002 2 1 (4B&C) 3 2. Uit Diepte van Ons See – 19 TO LANDS END Cillier & Hein Stapelberg Dec 2002 TO PUFFADDER CRAG (5B&C) 3. Captain Morgan - 20 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2001 (T) Start in wide chimney. Move onto land ward ramp and top out.

PUFFADDER This crag is on the DM side of Memorial Rock. These routes are short, broken and look like a heap of shit. Allen and Noodles had fun climbing them .The puffadder who lives on the crag had fun scaring the crap out of Noodles. 1. Puffadder Crack - 13 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) 2. Seeking the Serpent - 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) 3. Slithering Up - 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T)

THE PLATFORM From Lands End, walk seaward to a very steep grassy gully which runs down the Double Mouth side of the headland to the wave cut platform…..this is The Platform. GODZILLA WALL: This is the broken face on the land ward side of the steep walk in. Routes are listed from MB to DM. 1. Godzila Dung – 11 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 01/03/2004 (T) Climb the easy stepped diagonal just L of Avo 2 Ants. FROM 2. Avo Ants – 14* 6 LANDS D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 01/03/2004 (T) 1 END Climb the open book. Move R at the small roof. 3 Up short open book to the top. 4 3. Feels so Good – 15*** 10 9 8 7 5 G.Raubenheimer & G.Peckham 05/01/2001 (T) 11 - 14 Start in the gully near the center of the wrinkly face, directly below the main, vertical crack line that splits the upper half of the face. Follow this vertical crack to the top. 4. Donnersaurus- 17 A.E.Luck & the apprentices 16/12/2002 (T) Climb the RH off width. Up the chimney.

5. Godzilla – 17 A.E.Luck & the apprentices 16/12/2002 (T) Climb the LH off width. Up the Chimney. 6. Apprentizorious – 15 A.E.Luck & a different apprentice 01/03/2004 (T) Start just L of Godzilla. Up series of steps to the left. Gain the large ledge. Climb the L side to reach the top of the face. 7. Father of Woe – 18* D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 22/02/2004 (T) Climb the crack directly below the pock marked face. Through the pocked face. 8. Jurassic Fart - 14 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 01/03/2004 (T) Start 4m L of Godzilla. Move to the L to gain the ledge. Over the ledge climb the loose off width to a belay point. 9. Green Goblin – 13 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 22/02/2004 (T) Climb the Easy recess 4,5m L of Godzilla. Gain the ledge. Over the ledge climb the loose off width to a belay point. 10. Still Is Was – 15 A.E.Luck & the apprentices 16/12/2002 (T) Climb the most L easy recess on the sea ward face. Onto large ledge. Up the back to belay at the top of Father of Woe. 11. Ugly – 14 A.E.Luck & the apprentices 16/12/2002 (T) Climb the really shit gully On the DM side of Godzilla Wall. Belay from top of Father of Woe. 12. Black Avo…Yum! – 9 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 22/02/2004 (T) Climb the awful loose ramps to gain the awful loose off width. 13. Quattro Drive – 10 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 22/02/2004 (T) Climb the nice looking easy ramp line 2m L of Ugly. 14. Selfish Prick – 10 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 22/02/2004 (T) Climb the extremely short line 5m L of Ugly.

ONCE IN A LIFE TIME SECTOR

This sector is on the MB side of the steep grassy gully used to access The Platform.

15. Marriage Potential – 16 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 01/03/2004 (T) The first tiny route. Climb the off width, into lay back. Look out for two loose blocks. Sweet! 16. Potential Vasectomy – 12 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 01/03/2004 (T) Climb the short easy crack 1m L of notched arête. 19 17. Skriek Vir Niks – 21*** 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 01/03/2004 (T) 15 17 16 Climb the satanic chimney. Easily protected with one FROM GODZILLA & LANDS END TO TWILIGHT OF THE GODS No. 6 & two No .5 Friends, as well as two No. 4 Big Bros. 18. Once in a Lifetime – 17*** G.Raubenheimer & G.Peckham 05/01/2001 (T) Start 2,5m R of Skriek Vir Niks, in a recess below a roof which undercuts the RH arete. Exit roof to the R. Keep just R of arête to the top. Good gear all the way. 19. Tracking Matt – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 01/03/2004 (T) Start 5m R of Once in a Lifetime arête. Climb the L most, loose crack. Easily protected with one No. 6 Friend and both 4 & 5 Big Bros.

TWILIGHT OF THE GODS SECTOR 20 21 22 This sector is round the corner in the MB 24 26 23 25 direction, on a wave cut platform. 27

20. Project DIAMOND SHAPED 21. Howzat – 14 BALANCED BLOCK 28 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 16/12/2002 (T) 5m L of diamond shaped block. Climb the RH open book of rectangular recess onto 29 grassy ledge. 22. The Rise and the Fall – 14 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (T)

1m R of Howzat. Climb the on either side of thin vertical finger crack. 23. Behind Enemy Lines – 15 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 16/12/2002 (T) Start 3m L of diamond shaped block. Layback up to the crack that runs up the back of an undercut, L-facing corner and continue up to the ledge. 24. Twilight of the Gods – 14 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (T) Start 2m L of diamond shaped block. Layback up into crack and follow it to ledge. 25. Follow the Sign – 15 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 16/12/2002 (T) Climb on to the diamond shaped block. Climb short crack on the L. Rail R onto knobbled face. Up….top out. Doggy gear! 26. The Gods Must Be Crazy – 17 A.E.Luck & the apprentices 16/12/2002 (T) Loose chimney. 27. Apprentices Need To Cry – 16 A.E.Luck & the apprentices 16/12/2002 (T) Climb the easy stepped off width 5m R of diamond shaped block. Ever so slightly crap. 28. White Breasts of Cormorants – 13 Anthony Van Tonder & Bugs Sprouse 11/01/2002 (T) Climb the crack line 4m R of choosy open book. Stay in the narrow crack all the way to the top. 29. Bird Shit King – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) About 12m from White Breasts of Cormorants, towards MB. Climb the twin cracks (less than 1m apart). The LH is an off width and the R notched. Up these to cool hand crack. Traverse R onto knobby face. Belay with the birds. If bird shit is your thing this one is for you.

CATFISH COVE

Walk down to boulder beach between Second and Third Headlands. The following routes are on the MB side of the cove and are listed from L to R. 4 3 1 2 LANDWARD SECTOR 1. Black Angel at Your Side – 16 5 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 28/02/2004 (T) TO CAR PARK BETWEEN Climb the short zigzagged crack, on the small 2ND & 3RD HEADLAND 6 face on the MB side of the walk down. Start 1m L of perfect hand crack. 7 2. Dirty Harry – 16 8 9 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 28/02/2004 (T) Climb the short, perfect, and straight hand crack on the small face on the MB side of the walk down. 3. Octopus Up - 14 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 28/02/2004 (T) Climb the chimney groove 1.5m R of Wild Flower. 4. Tear of God – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 28/02/2004 (T) Climb the rampy off width open book 4m R of Wild Flower. 5. Lithic Mulch Extreme – 14 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 28/02/2004 (T) Up LH crack crossing R till the grass. Keep on up to belay off the fence post. Not fun. 6. Nurse! Nurse! I’m Feeling Worse – 15 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 28/02/2004 (T) Climb the loose crack in the slab, which starts on the R and crosses another crack to form a rough “X”. Onto grass. Up scary grass till belay is found. A 60m rope will take you to the fence posts. 7. War…She’s a Whore! – 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 28/02/2004 (T) Climb the prominent loose crack 2m R of the start of Nurse! Nurse! I’m Feeling Worse. Use the finger crack and the plusher crack 1m to the R. Head to the fence if you have a 60m rope. Belay off a well chosen post. 8. Dark Angel - 15 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 28/02/2004 (T) Up the easy stepped crack which starts on the steep grass slope. Move L onto veg ledge. Pass block to L. Up veggie scramble to awesome off width. 9. King Contrary Man – 16 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 28/02/2004 (T) Climb the groove 2m R of Dark Angel. Gain the veg ledge. Move to the L and around block. Traverse up and R. Climb the crack behind the large block. Up grass. Hunt for a belay…not easy.

MAIN FACE 9. Pogrom Day - 15 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham July 2001(T) Climb the prominent, flaring, off width 1m L of Beer Fish. Belay below sharp arête. Escape safely by staying roped for a second easy pitch. 10. Beer Fish – 13 Ian Schwarts, Mike Louw & Wendy Jenkin April 1992 (T)

Near the water line there are two obvious, parallel L trending chimney grooves. Climb the better looking LH groove. 11. Bobfish – 11 Ian Schwarts, Mike Louw & Wendy Jenkin April 1992 (T) Climb the RH of the above mentioned grooves. 12. Cat Fish Rising P1 – 20 Start at the low tide mark and climb a thin finger crack to a ledge. P2 – 15 Continue up the easy but pleasant wall above. 13. Barfly Retching – 21 Stuart Middlemiss April 1992 (T) ROCKY BEACH Climb the thin L leaning crack line about 10 or 15m 10 11 12 13 14 15 inland of the water line. Unfortunately the water line moves up and down with the tide. So this could be about any thin crack on the face. 14. A Sailor to Die – 15 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 01/01/2004 (T) Climb the short off width to top of block.

SEA FACE This area is only climbable at very low tide and in calm conditions. 15. Little Angel – 19* D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 31/01/2004 (T) 7m R of off width, climb the thin line for 5m to a ledge. Move slightly L and up. Not very long. Scramble off block on the MB side. Route does not continue up rippled face. 16. Competing With the Wind – 12 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 31/01/2004 (T) Climb the easy L trending diagonal to the top of the block. Scramble off block on the MB side. 17. Merchants of Death – 10 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 31/01/2004 (T) Up easy steps onto big ledge. Up open book into loose crack. Take the easiest line L to a belay point. 18. Peace Dog – 14 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 31/01/2004 (T) 2m R of Merchants of Death. Up nice crack onto ledge. 17 18 19 Move R onto up turned “V” rocks and into easy “V” shaped 16 crack. At the top of this, continue up crap grass for about 25m to safe belay.

THIRD HEADLAND Take the first or second gate traveling from Morgan Bay to Double Mouth. Both will lead to parking on the Third Headland.

CASTAWAYS

This area is easiest reached by, parking on the 2nd Headland and walking down the grassy gully between the 2nd and 3rd Headlands. Castaways is situated near the top, on the DM side of the grassy gully. Unfortunately the lines are more than a tad on the short side. Route recorded MB to DM.

2 1

1. Faith Healer – 14 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 31/01/2004 (T) Scramble up the easy ramp on the sea ward face. Climb the diagonal R crack to top out. 2. Dinosaur Worm – 10 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 31/01/2004 (T) 3 Climb the very short off width. Move L to hole through rock. Up nose to top. 5 3. Hunters – 14 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 31/01/2004 (T) This single short route is situated close to the top of the grass slope. Climb the “V” shaped crack with the square block in it. 4 4. Captaino Insano – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 31/01/2004 (T) Quite nice climbing. About 8m R of Naked Island. Climb the short obvious crack for 8m. Belay from ledge. 5. Skirmish – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 31/01/2004 (T) 3 Start on the big ledge where Captaino Insano ends. Climb the obvious crack for 7m. Short but not so sweet. 5 6. Spirit Walker – 20** D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 22/04/2004 (T) This is the very thin line 1.5m to the R of Naked Island. There is no clear crack. From the big ledge up the off width to the L of the over hang. 4 7. Naked Island – 18** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 05/01/2002 (T) Thin start ,to inverted V crack. Awesome line. 8. Feeling Fragile – 18* G.Peckham & C.Bester 05/01/2002 (T) Prominent line, with thin start. 9. Sheltering Desert - 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 05/01/2002 (T) Thinly protected slab. 11 10. Ring Piece Raider – 10 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 22/04/2004 (T&1RB) Climb this easy line. It has one Bolt hole about 5m off the deck, but 10 is easy to climb it with out placing a bolt. Very short. 11. Stranded - 20 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 9 8 7 6 05/01/2002 (T) Short easy line to the left.

STORM BRINGER

This is a small buttress of rock, which is fairly close to the sea. There are a few magic routes to be found.

1. Smoke on the Water – 16* D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 05/01/2002 (T) Fat crack to the left. 2. Fire in the Sky – 16* D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2 3 05/01/2002 (T) 1 Centre finger crack to small roof. 3. Thunder Below – 18* A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 05/01/2002 (T) Open book into roof.

BIONIC MAN

This small sector is located above the deep gorge between the 2nd & 3rd Headlands. Sector is easily identified by the small stack set away from a smooth pitted face just below the vehicle track level.

1. Bionic Man – 20* D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck June 2002 (T) 2 Climb the only crack in the smooth face on the DM side of the small stack. 3 2. Steve – 20 A.E.Luck & C.Bester June 2002 (T) Climb the RH arête of the MB face of the small stack. 3. Man van Staal – 13 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall June 2002 (T) Climb the very short crack up the MB face of the small stack.

4TH HEAD LAND

Traveling from MB towards DM, turn left through the 2nd gate. Follow the track, which curves left. This is the House of Cards Headland. Park where the track forms a car park.

BUCCANEER’S ROCK RABBIT COVE BRASS WALL MONKEY S32°42’55.2” S32°42’56.7” S32°42’56.4” E028°19’54.3” E028°19’49.7”” E028°19’52.5”

ABSEIL POINT S32°42’58.0” E028°19’51.8”

L SHAPED CRAG S32°42’55.9” E028°19’55.0” DEAD MAN’S GRAVE YARD SEA HOUSE OF CHEST S32°42’58.1” TOMBSTONE BJ BUTTRESS STACK CARDS S32°42’58.8” GULCH S32°42’56.5” E028°19’53.0” S32°42’57.4” E028°19’51.4” S32°42’57.2” E028°19’54.4” E028°19’53.3” E028°19’54.7”

ROCK RABBIT WALL

Descend the grassy slope on the MB side of the headland. About 15m down begin to traverse landward. Rock Rabbit Wall is the shortish not- so-good-looking splash of rock to the left.

1. Roger Rabbit - 13 1 Anthony & Rodger van Tonder, 2 G.Peckham July 2001 (T) 3 7 6 8 10 Climb the short open book. 4 5 9 2. What’s Up Doc – 20* A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall June 2002 (T) Climb the chimney, then through the roof. 3. Bleeding Heart Graffiti – 20* D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 20/04/2004 (T&2RB) Start on the arête that forms the RH side of the chimney. Keep to the R of the arête. 4. Remember When - 14 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 18/07/2001 (T) Up the arête, about 2m R of the large chimney. Travers R on ledge. Then climb the obvious crack. 5. Brae Rabbit – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2002 (T) Climb the loose looking face to the R of Remember When. Some of the pro is dubious. 6. Bugs Bunny – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall June 2002 (T) 2 20

Climb the chimney to the R of Brae Rabbit. 7. Elmer J Fudd – 12 C.Bester & A.E.Luck June 2002 (T) Up the short slab. 8. Nibbles – 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester June 2002 (T) Chimney. 9. Rogerer – 10 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester July 2002 (T) Climb the easy slab. 10. Wabbit Twacks – 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester June 2002 (T) Up the short easy chimney.

‘L’ SHAPED CRAG ROCK RABBIT 21 WALL 19 Park on the House of Cards Headland. Descend 20 on the Morgan Bay village side of the headland. DEEP 18 GULLY This area has a great tea spot & a number of 17 stunning lines. ‘L’ Shaped is a good spot to take 16 NATAL 15 beginners or for a first visit with limited time. FACE 11 TICKET TO RIDE FACE 10 1. Pick Pocket - 11 G.Peckham & 9 G.Raubenheimer 06/12/2000 (T) TICKET TO RIDE FACE Climb the short off width on the LH side. 8 2 2. Paper Back Writer -13 1 3 4 6 7 5 G.Peckham & G.Raubenheimer 06/12/2000 (T) Up the L tending ramp, then up the prominent 22 crack. 23 24 3. Day Tripper – 15** 25 Dave & Barbara Freer 1982 (T) OUR LADY Start in the recess to the L of the block. Up the obvious crack line. 26 27 4. Genesis – 13** Phillip Turnbull & J.Fuller Aug 1983 (T) Start on the LH side of the block. Up the ramp to gain a vertical crack. 5. Ticket to Ride – 16*** Dave & Barbara Freer July 1982 (T) Climb the very prominent crack which starts in the middle of the block. 6. The Feeling is Tight - 18** Wayne Clausen & John Moorcroft 27/08/1983 (T) Start to R of block. Climb the ever widening off width crack. 7. Purple Rain – 19*** Clee Roy, Andrew Forsyth, Pixie Fuller & Alan Briers 01/06/1985 (T) Climb the arête between the Ticket to Ride & Natal Faces. Keep to the L of the arête for the first half, and then step to the R. Keeping close to the arête to the top. There is good protection to be had.

NATAL FACE: Natal Face runs perpendicular to Ticket to Ride Face. Some of the routes can be reached by walking passed Ticket to Ride Face. The more land ward routes are reached by abseiling from the chock stone in the chimney, What’s up Doc, on the Rock Rabbit Wall.

8. Footsie - 21 Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 01/06/1985 (T) Start just L of Catch 22. Climb the over hang on the R. Using holds on Catch 22 is off route.

4 9. Catch 22 – 18*** Dave & Barbara 5 Freer 1982 (T) Climb the crack through the roof, 1m R of the arête. 1 2 3 10. Thin Ice – 17* Dave & Barbara Freer March 1982 (T) Climb the slab with a crack through it to gain the vertical 6 7 crack, about 1.5 m R of Catch 22. 11. Natal – 21*** Dave & Barbara

Freer, Dave Reason 1983 (T) Climb the prominent crack 3.5m R of Catch 22. There were top anchors placed, but they were removed soon afterwards. 12. Roofy and Goofy – 20 S.Davis & R. van der Wiel Start just L of Acne. Traverse L below the roof for about 3m along good under clings. Through the roof and up diagonally L, to the top of Natal. 13. Acne - 15 Dave & Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes 1983 (T) Climb the broken line 5m R of Catch 22. It is better than it looks.

The following routes can be reached by roped traverse to the R, but are better reached by abseiling in from the Rock Rabbit Wall. The belay ledges are well protected.

14. Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da – 19 25m A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall June 2002 (T) Abseil onto sloping square ledge. Start up good short crack on the L. Climb to start of large grassy chimney. Up the blocks on the L. Then up stepped face to the top. 15. Please Please Me – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall June 2002 (T) Abseil on to same ledge as above. Climb the off width open book on the L. Climb this to gain the chimney. Over huge chock stone to the top. 16. Lost Digit - 16 Gary Hodgekinson & Carl van der Linger Sept 1983 (T) Belaying from the same ledge as above. Traverse R to find the next prominent crack. Climb to large block. Move L round a corner and up a ramp. 17. Hey Jude – 15 24m D.C.Marshall & C.Bester June 2002 (T) Using same belay as above. Traverse about 1m further R than Lost Digit. Climb the broken, blocky crack system through a minor roof.

Abseil from the top, further R to reach a large ledge with a huge boulder. This ledge is lower than the previous. Also well protected. Can be wet down there. Suggest low tide and a calm day. 18. Yellow Submarine – 18** 26m D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck April 2003 (T) Start to R and below the above ledge. Up an open book to gain a crack in a groove. Through an easy roof to the top.

12 20 19 21

13 14 15 16 11

9 18 8

The following routes are reached by abseiling down a steep grassy slope below Rock Rabbit Wall. The grassy slope and ledge reached form an inverted ‘L’. 19. Babes in Black – 19 A.E.Luck & C.Bester June 2002 (T)

Climb the short off width on the face closest to the rest of Natal Face. Through the awkward cubby hole onto a big ledge. Up the big open book. 20. Skeletor – 15 C.Bester & A.E.Luck June 2002 (T) Climb the easy open book to large ledge. Up the same big open book. 21. Lucy in the Sky – 18* D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck June 2002 (T) Climb the obvious curving crack on the RH wall of the descent gully.

OUR LADY: This is the free standing pillar opposite Ticked to Ride Face. There is a tricky scramble-off on the DM side.

22. Lowest Mangy Cur – 13 C.Bester & A.E.Luck July 2005 (T) Very short, very easy slab to the R of the blocky off width open book. 23. Twisting With Trad – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2005 (T) Blocky off width open book using LH exit crack at the top. 24. Tower of Glory – 20** Matt Long & D.C.Marshall July 2005 (T) Start to the L of blocky off width open book. Move R then traverse L onto the arête & to the top. 25. Radio Free Moscow – 20*** Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 01/06/1985 (T) On the MB side of pillar. Start on the seaward corner. Move R onto the RH arête. Climb through some awkward overhanging bits to the top. There are chains on top, but they would rusted through by now. 26. Our Lady of the Abattoir - 15 Dave & Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes 1983 (T) On the sea ward face. Climb the nasty looking off width on the R. Trend L into central chimney crack. 27. Stone Hinge Fakes – 16* D.C. Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) Climb the thin crack to the L. Top out using the same chimney as above.

BLUE JAY BUTTRESS

Blue Jay Buttress is the small buttress which over looks the ‘L’ Shaped Crag. Fairly dense wild banana trees hide the base and part of the routes. Do not be put off by them Blue Jay Buttress doesn't look like much, but it is actually quite good climbing.

1. Kortbroek -15 Rodney Owen, Eric Penman, G.Peckham & Anthony van Tonder 2001 (T) Climb the middle of the short, clean face to the R of Blackbird. 2. Blackbird – 15** Rodney Owen, Eric Penman, G.Peckham & Anthony van Tonder 2001 (T) Just R of Blue Jay off width. CAR PARK 3. Blue Jay - 14 C.Boswell-Brown, 1 Pete Hawkes, Carol Fenn, Fred Vogelsang & Benji Thorpe 1983 (T) Climb the large off width. Gear is better than it looks. 3 2 6 5 4 4. John Brown – 17* D.C. Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) Start in the short wide crack. Then up the arête. TO 'L' SHAPED 5. G String – 18* CRAG G.Raubenheimer & G.Peckham 06/12/2000 (T) Climb the thin crack system. 6. 5 o'clock Shark – 17* Gary Hodgkinson, TO THE Carl van der Lingen & Dave Freer (T) HOUSE OF Climb the large crack in the middle of the sloping face.

FROM 'L' SHAPED HOUSE OF CARDS 22 SECTOR FROM 21 CAR 20 19 These routes are on the square of rock PARK closest to the car park. The top is 18 TO TOMB 17 easily accessed from the land ward 9 8 STONE side. 7 16 GULCH 6 15 1. Ear Ache - 14 Carl van der Lingen & Gary 5 14 1 10 Hodgekinson Sept 1983 (T) 4 13 Climb the short, clean, L trending 11 12 crack. Pity it’s so short. 2 3 2. Jump Start -19** D.C.Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 2000 (T) Start to the R of perfect, smooth looking face. Place small wire. Then commit to jumping onto the face from the boulder in front of the face. Gain the ledge. Climb the diagonal crack to the top. This route was first climbed by Dave & Barbara Freer with one aid move, called One Step From Earth. Was only freed by Derek Marshall. The jump is committing, but sweet. 3. Jump Start Alternate Start – 17** D.C.Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 2000 (T) Start just around the corner to the R. Gain the ledge, then up the diagonal crack to the top. 4. Rabbit Killer – 20* D.C.Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 2000(T) Start just L of ‘Fear No Evil’. Up easy ramp, then up overhanging off width. 6 Friend a bonus! 5. Fear No Evil – 19** Dave & Barbara Freer 1983 (T) Climb the vertical crack on the land ward side of the gully. 6. Graven Image - 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 09/07/2005 (T) Just R of Fear No Evil, jump for the square ledge. Up small L facing open book. Easy to the top. Very short. 7. Ruins of My Life – 19 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 09/07/2005 (T) Small under cut open book on the MB seaward arête. Very short. 8. Why Don’t You Get a Rack- 17 A.E.Luck & William Lesley 09/07/2005 (T) On MB face. Up short off width open book. 9. What? A Spice Rack? – 15 A.E.Luck & William Lesley 09/07/2005 (T) Slab on RH side of MB face.

These routes are all on the piece of rock which is almost free standing on the sea ward side of the for mentioned square. The top can be accessed by easy scramble up the MB side.

10. Innocent – 15 D.C.Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 2000(T) Climb the rather crap line on the sea ward side of the gully. 11. Block Head – 16** John Alexander & Gavin Stewart (T) Start up the awesome layback to gain the top of the block. Up the LH corner. Moving further L at the top. Lovely route. 12. Life and Life to the Full – 25*** D.C. Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt April 2001 (8B&C) Mike Roberts first saw this line in the 80’s. He spent the whole week end hand drilling the bolt placements. Unfortunately he had to leave it incomplete at the end of the weekend. The remains of his bolts are still visible. 13. Reaper at Your Side – 23*** D.C.Marshall & C.Bester (T & 5RB) Start in overhanging “V” grovel. From the top of the block move L onto the arête. Climb the face just to the R of the arête…using the arête. Totally stunning. 14. Tru Grit – 19** Dave & Barbara Freer 1983 (T) Large mostly unprotected chimney. 15. Teething Trouble – 27*** Stuart Middle miss (T)!!! Face \ arête with little (or no) protection. 16. Airs above Ground – 18*** Dave & Barbara Freer & Gary Hodgekinson 1983(T) Start in open book, traverse to left, round the corner, to top out. 17. Saddle Up – 19 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 Short route to R of Airs above Ground. 18. Strip Poker - 17 C.Bester & Rudi Brewis 21/03/2004 (T&3RB)

Climb the ramp 2m R of Airs above Ground. It’s a short but sweet line. 19. Pop Horn – 17 A.E.Luck & Rudi Brewis 20/03/2004 (T) Climb the gross off width 4m R of Airs above Ground. Bit to short. 20. I’ll Be There - 17 A.E.Luck & Rudi Brewis 20/03/2004 (T) Climb the “V” off width with the large rock jammed in it, 5.5m R of Airs above Ground 21. Time Has Come - 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 20/03/2004 (T) Climb the off width open book ramp, 7m R of Airs above Ground 22. Cool and Smooth – 16 19 20 21 22 18 D.C.Marshall & Rudi Brewis 21/03/2004 (T) 17 Climb the extremely short, but very cool crack on 16 the far R. It’s actually more of a boulder problem. 14 15 13 Worth the effort.

TOMBSTONE GULCH WALK IN FROM 'L' SHAPED CRAG Descend as for the House of Cards Sector. Tombstone Gulch is the broken gully below the House of Cards on the seaward side. The gully descends steeply towards MB. The Tombstones stand above on the seaward side. The following routes are on the landward face. 1 2 3 1. Dead or Alive – 17 A.E.Luck & Dave Kruger 24/05/2003 (T) 4 9 10 6 8 Start below the blocks. Gain the large ledge. 7 Climb the vertical crack system to the square 5 notch. 12m 2. Master of Destines – 16 D.C.Marshall & Dave Kruger 24/05/2003 (T) Start on the shale ledge. Climb “V” groove onto sloped ledge. Up vertical crack L of balanced boulders, then up the “V” chimney. 3. Snark – 14 Dave & Barbara Freer 1983 (T) Start on shale below vertical cracks in small buttress. Onto ledge. Up blocky off width into cubby hole chimney. 4. Boojum – 15 Dave & Barbara Freer, Carl van der Lingen, Kim Blakeway & Phillip Turnbull 1983 (T) Starting on shale, then up broken blocky line. 5. Pre-Ordained – 17 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 24/05/2003 (T) Start on shale below crack through overhang. Through overhang, up L trending crack system. Travers R below small roof to belay ledge. 6. Pre-destined – 20** D.C.Marshall & Dave Kruger 24/05/2003 (T) Start on shale below roof. Tread R into short awkward open book. Up an awkward ramp using under clings. Then up easy L trending crack system. The next 4 routes are reached by descending as for Our Lady of the Abattoir. Descend below the seaward face. Find the comfy ledge. There is a beautiful fossil on this ledge. 7. The Enemies Line – 12 G. Peckham & D.C.Marshall 02/07/2002 (T) Up curving open book ramp. Easy moves to the top, then L into open book. 8. Take No Prisoners – 16* D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 02/07/2002 (T) Up twin cracks to tricky move. 9. Till Death – 16 D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 02/07/2002 (T) Climb the large off width. 10. Grave Yard Shift – 17* D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 02/07/2002 (T)

Up large flaring off width. 11. Cool ‘n Crispy – 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 24/05/2003 (T) 6m of perfect jam crack. Unfortunately so short. This is found above the landward face of Tombstone Gulch.

The next 5 routes are located around the larger of the Tombstones. That is the one closest to MB.

12. Undertaker – 14 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 06/07/2002 (T) Climb the nice ,but to short crack on the DM side of the Tombstone. 13. Coroner – 16* D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 06/07/2002 (T) Scramble down Tombstone Gulch to below the landward arête on the DM side of the Tombstone. Climb the obvious crack line then the landward face of the Tombstone. 14. Mortician – 16 D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 06/07/2002 (T) Scramble down Tombstone Gulch to below the landward arête on the MB side of the Tombstone. Climb the off width onto blocky ledge. Up ramp on MB side of Tombstone. 15. Pall Bearer – 15 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 06/07/2002 (T) Climb the very short seaward face. 16. Tomb Raider – 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 06/07/2002 (T) Up the short arête between Pall Bearer and Undertaker.

THE GRAVEYARD: The Tombstones are easy to see. Prominent free standing squares of rock between House of Cards and the sea. The Graveyard is below The Tombstone towards the large sea stack (Shark Fin).

FROM FROM 'L' 1. Gecko Blaster - 15 G. HOUSE OF SHAPED Peckham & D.C.Marshall 06/07/2002 (T) CARDS CRAG Start in corner crack then up the arête. 11 2. Budgie Lungs - 14 G. Peckham & D.C.Marshall 06/07/2002 (T) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Start in corner crack, then onto sloping ledge. Up the open book. THE 13 14 3. Wet, Wet, Wet! – 18 TOMB STONE A.E.Luck & C.Bester 06/07/2002 (T) 12 Travers L towards sea stack. Climb the off THE width to gain a ledge. Then climb the GRAVE chimney 16 15 YARD Does not sound sweet!

BRASS MONKEY BUTTRESS

On the landward side of House of 4 Cards. Just below the car park.

1. Beer Belly – 10 G.Peckham 06/01/2002 (S) 1 Very short easy line. 2. Grunt – 10 5 2

G.Peckham 04/01/2002 (S) 9 3 6 Short, easy, veg climb. 8 7 3. Low Gear - 17 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 06/01/2002 (T) In the descent gully. To left of prominent crack. 4. Brass Monkey – 12 G.Peckham & A.E.Luck 06/07/2002 (T) Climb the off width open book. Step R onto ramp, then up the easy crack. 5. Brass Monkey Direct – 15 A.E.Luck & G.Peckham 06/07/2002 (T) Up the off width open book. Trend L to the top out.

6. Crackamania – 19* G.Raubeinheimer & G.Peckham 05/01/2002 (T) Behind bananas. Crack runs through roof. 7. Pooh's Corner – 1 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 05/01/2002 (T) Open book to left of Crackamania. 8. Slim Shady – 19 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 06/07/2002 (T) Climb the crack 6m L of Crackamania. 9. Stinky Winky - 11 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 06/07/2002 (T) Too short too be any good.

PINEAPPLE RIDGE

Two isolated routes, on separate pieces of rock, jutting out of banana plants. On the edge of the seem which runs down into Buccaneers Cove.

1. Banana Split – 10 G.Peckham 04/01/2002 (S) Climb the tallest of the tiny pinnacles by using the sea ward crack. 2. Tangerine - 10 G.Peckham 04/01/2002 (S) Climb the flake line on the sea ward side below Banana Split.

BUCCANEERS COVE CAVES

TH TH This is the rocky gully between the 4 and 5 11 Headlands. The best approach is an abseil from a large boulder 20m above Dead Man’s Chest. ABSEIL POINT Or walk around on the seaward side of Dead 9 10 Man’s Chest. Buccaneers Cove is definitely a low tide area only. POTENTIAL DEAD MAN’S CHEST: This is the small free 8 FOR NEW standing stack on DM side of Buccaneers Cove. LINES

1. Savage Attack – 16 6 7 D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 02/07/2002 (T) 1 Jam up nice crack in centre of very short, inland 2 DEAD face. 3 MAN'S BOULDER BEACH 2. Broken Tooth – 15 CHEST 4 A.E.Luck & C.Bester June 2002 (T) 12 Start down and 1m R of Savage Attack. 5 3. Hammerhead – 16 13 A.E.Luck & P.Venter June 2002 (T) SEA Up the obvious crack 4m R of Broken Tooth. 14 4. Back Biter - 11 WADE OFF 15 C.Bester & A.E.Luck June 2002 (T) 16 Climb the broken seaward arête. 5. Koeksister – 14 SHARK Phillip Venter & A.E.Luck June 2002 (T) FIN Climb the nice, but very small crack about 20m away, towards Strip Tease.

These lines are on the DM side of Buccaneers Cove. There some further potential. 6. Land Ahoy – 15 A.E.Luck & Justin Mostert 08/02/2004 (T) This route is on the broken sea ward face between the Dead Man’s Chest and the main wall on the DM side of Buccaneers Cove. Up steps to chimney. Head for the grassy slope. 7. Ghost Ship – 17 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 08/02/2004 (T) 2m R of Land Ahoy. Up easy steps to short, but nice open book. Head for the grass. 8. Shiver-me-rocks – 19 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 08/02/2004 (T) 2m L of cave on the DM side, up the seriously loose broken line to the grassy slope above. 9. Glas & Draad – 19 A0 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 08/02/2004 (T)

Prominent crack on the wall on the DM side of Buccaneers Cove. Very greasy finger crack. Eventually some gear was dogged on. Good line though. 10. Dragon Slayer - 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Starts just L of cave, which is situated at far R of the wall on the DM side of Buccaneers Cove. Climb the Chimney into off width. Topping out on steep grass slopes. A full bakkie of loose rock was unloaded from this line during the opening ascent. 11. The-One-Eyed-Fanny-Pirate – 16* C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 08/02/2004 (T) In the passage, about 4m from the cave on the MB side, climb the fist crack. Then move L and up. THE SHARK FIN: This is the large sea stack between the 4th and 5th Headland. To exit from the top: down climb Sea Urchin onto the platform. Climb off the platform on the DM side, on the sea end. Wade or balance across slippery rocks at the bottom. Yes… obviously at low tide. 12. Access Route – 15 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 03/07/2002 (T) Start by stepping off the block on the land ward side at low tide. Climb up a few meters then traverse along the line where the shale meets the dolerite on the seaward side. There is a large safe platform on the seaward side from which to belay. All the routes can be reached DRY by using this route. 13. Barracuda – 14 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 03/07/2002 (T) Up the prominent crack on the land ward corner of the DM facing wall. 14. Sting Ray – 15 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 03/07/2002 (T) Thin crack 4m R of Barracuda. 15. The Mobsters Lobster - 12 D.C.Marshall & G. Peckham 03/07/2002 (T) Up the loose line on the DM corner of the seaward face. 16. Sea Urchin – 10 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 03/07/2002 (T) The obvious line in the middle of the seaward face. Also the down climb.

THE 5TH HEADLAND

On the road to Double Mouth, take the second gate to the left. Follow the track that trends in the DM direction. Park on the headland closest to DM. This headland also known as by climbers as ‘Carnival is Over Headland’ or ‘The Eye Headland’.

EAGER SMOOTH DIFFUSION WALL BEAVER OPERATOR S32°42’58.7” S32°42’56.7” WALL BOOZE E028°19’49.9” E028°19’49.7” CRUISE MADE TO FIT SEA S32°43’01.1” STACK JUST A BAY OF E028°19’48.9” BANANA BREEZE PLENTY AREA THE CARNIVAL S32°43’04.2” PIVOTAL IS OVER E028°19’45.0” MOTION S32°43’04.0” BUCCANEER’S E028°19’48.5” COVE STRIP TEASE SLIPPERY S32°43’03.7” WHEN WET E028°19’47.4” LINEAR LEDGE S32°43’03.1” S32°43’03.1” E028°19’41.4” E028°19’49.4” THE TUSK SWEET S32°43’04.8” NEEDLE WALL DUNKIRK SURRENDER E028°19’42.4” WHALE BONE RIDGE S32°43’04.2” S32°43’03.1” HOTTENTOTS E028°19’48.0” E028°19’49.4” S32°43’04.1” STRANDLOOPER LEDGE E028°19’47.1” BUTTRESS S32°43’05.9” MINE SHAFT S32°43’04.5” E028°19’45.6” S32°43’04.5” E028°19’49.0” E028°19’47.3”

BANANA REPUBLIC

This is the line of crags along the top of the Morgan Bay side of the 5Th Headland. To reach them, find the scramble, which leads to Linear Ledge, follow the grassy slope inland, to the Diffusion Wall. Eager Beaver Wall stands above a dense thicket of strelitzias further to the R.

BANANA AREA: This is the small pile of rocks land ward of the walk in to Linear Ledge, 10m right of the start of Diffusion Wall.

1. Banana FL – 13 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 2003 (T) Climb the broken, stepped ramp. Then R past roof. 2. Broken Banana – 12 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 2003 (T) Climb the easy ramp. Top out to the R. DIFFUSION WALL: A perfect open book on the LH side, indicates the start of Diffusion Wall. 3. Midnight Sun – 21** D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2003 (T) This is the short, but perfect open book on the L of the crag. 4. Kontiki – 18* D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) 3m R of open book. Up vertical crack system then onto veg ledge. Up the small sea facing face to gain spacious belay ledge. 5. Ra - 17 D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T)

5.5m R of open book. Up horizontal cracks for 4m, then up L curving crack to gain veg ledge. Up the small sea facing face to gain spacious belay ledge. 6. Tai Ki - 17 D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) 6m R of open book. Climb the of width, moving into the off width on the L. Travers L along a ledge to gain the veg ledge. Up the small sea facing face to gain spacious belay ledge. 7. Project 8. Diffusion - 17 Bugs Sprouse & Gavin Peckham 2002 (T) Start under small roofs a few metres L of the blocky steps of Fu Snag. Pass the roof on the R to reach a sharp flake. Easy moves to the top. 9. Fu Sang -10 Kendyl Kunhardt & D.C.Marshall 2001 (T) Follow crack up blocky steps. 10. Walk Out – 8 7 11. Vesectomy Vision – 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2003 (T) About 6m R of Walk Out, climb the openbook hand crack. Avoid the loose rock., top out on the grass slope. There is nothing to belay from exept grass tufts….unless you have been smart enough to park your car near to the edge. 8 9 1 & 2 5 6 10 EAGER BEAVER WALL: 3 4 Find your way through the 11 strelitzias to the wall.

12. Eager Beaver – 12* Gavin Peckham & D.C.Marshall 02/07/2002 (T) 3m R of where the base of the wall drops sharply. Climb onto a small ledge to gain a short of width. Then climb the R tending slab, which leads to a good crack up the next slab. This route is better than it looks. 13. Elephants Asshole – 14 -2* D.C.Marshall & Gavin Peckham 02/07/2002 (T) About 5m R of Eager Beaver is a nasty, dirty gully, which runs under a huge chock stone. Climb the gully into the cave and behind the chock stone. Wriggle through a small orifice. Do not repeat this route as there is a danger of becoming stuck in the orifice. When this happens you will feel like an elephant sized asshole. Gavin Peckham refused to second (wimp?).

STRIP TEASE

Small chossy wall on the DM side of the rocky beach that starts in Buccaneer’s Cove. There are some sweet routes to be had, but only at low tide. Some of the lies are surprisingly long.

1. Choose Your Reality – 16 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 20/06/2004 (T) Up ramp slabs to L of small roof. Then up steps to the R. Find tricky belay in the steep grass. 2. Punda Paradise – 14 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 19/06/2004 (T) Up R trending flake system to a break just R of a small roof. 3. Indiana Jones & the Crack of Doom – 15 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 19/06/2004 (T) Up the gross off width, 4m R of Tyre Naaier. It is more than crap. 4. Show Girls – 17 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 19/06/2004 (T) Up the crack 1m L of the jagged arête. Across sloped grass ledge then up short ramp crack. 5. Somebody Stop me – 14 D.C.Marshall & D.Kaschula 19/06/2004 (T) Up the crap, broken open book. 6. Girls Girls Girls… - 16 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 19/06/2004 (T) Up the LH option of the twin spreading cracks. At the ledge, up the open book. 7. Topless Wonder – 18 A.E.Luck & Donavan Kaschula 19/06/2004 (T)

Up slightly L trending diagonal, to a prominent tri-angular feature. Move slightly L & up broken away tri-angular block. Move up ledges to the R. 8. G-String Boogie – 18 A.E.Luck & Donavan Kaschula 19/06/2004 (T) R facing open book 2m R of Tyre Naaier. Up easy steps into tricky loose gully. 9. Tyre Naaier – 19 20m A.E.Luck & Donavan Kaschula 19/06/2004 (T) Start on boulders below highest point. Up stepped open book, onto ledges. Then up awesome, but short open book. Top out on highest point. 10. Nipple Stand – 18 A.E.Luck & Donavan Kaschula 19/06/2004 (T) Same start as Tyre Naaier. Move past off width to the R, onto a large block. Straight up from there. 11. Morgan 500 – 18 A.E.Luck & Donavan Kaschula 20/06/2004 (T) Series of short open books & steps. This was the 500th route recorded at Morgan Bay. 12. Motives of the Heart – 13 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 20/06/2004 (T) Short perfect hand crack. 13. Pee-Pee-One –Eyed- Pirate – 14 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 19/06/2004 (T) 10 Start on boulders next to rock pool. Up for 4m with 14 zero pro, to a large ledge. 12 11 9 5 3 Up the loose off width 3m 18 6 4 17 16 15 13 7 R of off width open book. 8 1 & 2 14. Public Access - 15 A.E.Luck 20/06/2004 (S) Short open book chimney. 15. Geological Time is Now – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 19/06/2004 (T) Up thinner twin cracks 1m R. 16. Thorn in the Flesh – 16 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 19/06/2004 (T) Start on boulders close to the sea…at low tide. Up easy crack onto a nice ledge. Then up the prominent, if short, crack. 17. Teasers – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 20/06/2004 (T) Thin crack with good steps. 2m L of Thorn in the Flesh. 18. Basic Intentions – 14 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 20/06/2004 (T) Off width ramp. LINEAR LEDGE

On the side of the headland that faces Morgan Bay find the steep decent gully. This area is where a large majority of climbing takes place at Morgan Bay.

1. Easy Living -12 D.C.Marshall 2001 (Solo) Start 2m L of descent scramble. Climb stepped easy face to grassy ledge. Move L into open book. Take easiest line to the top. 2. Pins and Needles – 16 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 04/08/2004 (T) Climb the crack line to the L of Easy Livin. 3. Blue Swede Shoes – 19 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 04/08/2004 (T) Just R of Old Fashioned Book, up the off width, onto ledge. Move R and up. 4. Old Fashioned Book – 16* Dave & Babara Freer (T) Off width open book into chimney. 5. Worm on a Hook – 20** Dave & Babara Freer (T) 2m L of Old Fashioned Book, climb the vertical crack. Break slightly L to a ledge, then continue up crack to the top. 6. Alien Away – 19*** Dave & Babara Freer (T) 4m L of Old Fashioned Book, climb a short, slightly overhanging crack line to the same ledge as on Worm on a Hook. Continue straight up awkward double crack to the top. 7. Drunk In The Midnight Choir – 22* Dave & Babara Freer (T)1m R of Burning Bush, climb the crack using poor pinch grips. A tricky travers 8m up leads to another crack. Protection is sparse, but good. 8. Burning Bush – 15* Dave Freer & Rex Quick (T) This is the grungy looking recess just R of Linear Accelerator.

9. Linear Accelerator -17*** Dave & Babara Freer & Pete Hawkes 1983 (T) Climb the cracks into prominent open book ramp. 10. Bannana Boy – 22** Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 02/06/1985 (T) Start just L of Linear Accelerator. Climb face trending L. Travers 1m R on horizontal rail, then up thin crack to ledge. 11. All My Sins Remembered – 20** Stuart Middlemiss & B.Slater 1986 Step off inverted ‘V’ rock, then streight up. 12. No Pain, No Strain, No Brain – 20* Stuart Middlemiss 1986 (T) Step off inverted ‘V’. Break left. 13. Friendly Thief - 19 Steve Cooke & Babara Freer (T) Open book through small roof. 14. Bird On a Wire – 19** Dave & Babara Freer (T)

12 16

19 18 17 15 14 13 11 10 9 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Arete left of All My Sins Remembered. 15.Teenage Punks – 24*** Morne van der Mescht & D.C.Marshall 2001 (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. Almost opened by Geronimo… Gerard Edinberry, minutes before Morne cleaned it. 16. Fiddler's Green(2nd pitch) – 18*** Dave & Babara Freer (T) Perfect crack. Tiny R facing open book crack. 17. Brave,Brave Mouse(2nd pitch) -14 Dave & Babara Freer (T) Climb the ovious crack to the R of the open book. Move L at the top to avoid poor rock. 18. The Razor's Edge - 14 Dave & Babara Freer (T) Broken open book. 19. Sinister Mouse - 15* Hugo Vaughan, Cecily Roos 07/07/2005 (T) The climb is to the left of Brave, Brave Mouse 2nd pitch, on the extreme left of the Linear Ledge.

The following route is between Linear Ledge & Lower Linear Ledge. Is a little short to be any real good. 20. The Peanut Line – 12 C.Bester & M.E.Luck 04/09/2004 (T) Short open book.

LOWER LINEAR LEDGE

Same walk in as Linear Ledge, except continue down to platform just above the sea. A large free standing boulder has a few boulder problems. This area can only be climbed at low tide and with favourable weather conditions.

1. Rock 'n Role Party - 10 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Up easy break in middle of small face, onto grassy ledge. Up broken steps and belay from Linear Ledge. 2. Hail to England - 15 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Climb the easy off width between two small faces. Across grassy ledge. Top out as for Rock 'n Role Party.

10 9 8 7 5 LINEAR LEDGE

3 11 2 1

6 4 WALK IN

BOULDER

SEA 3. Monte Cassino – 17* D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) Up RH R trending, slab crack to gain stepped ledge. Climb the easy open book. 4. Vanya – 17* D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) Start 1m L of Monte Cassino. Climb the divergent cracks, to stepped ledge. Up prominent crack just L of easy open book. 5. Gold Fears No Fire - 17 D.C.Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 2001 (T) Start 1m L of Monte Cassino.. Climb LH divergent crack.Trend L over series of ledges. Top out on Linear Ledge. 6. African Mask – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Start just R of huge balanced, rectangular block. Up face and series of ledges to reach over hanging shield…which looks like an african mask. Belay here. Travers R to walk off. 7. I’m In The Mood For Tradding - 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2001 (T) 2,5m R of large balanced, rectangular block. Climb the prominent R trending crack. Stay in the RH crack all the way to Linear Ledge. 8. Trad Heroes - 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2001 (T) 3,5m L of large balanced, rectangular block. Climb the LH prominent R trending stepped crack. Then up the easy gully. 9. Fiddlers Green 1ST Pitch – 15*** Dave & Babara Freer (T) Start as for Heels of a Soft Prayer Whispered. 4m up travers L. Climb the RH crack system. 10. Brave, Brave Mouse 1ST Pitch – 17*** Dave & Babara Freer (T) Start 6m L of where the platform drops into the sea. Up short, steep crack to gain stepped face bearing L. Travers the loose slat of rock (1m long). Up thin crack. Step R to avoid trouble then onto Linear Ledge. 11. Heels of a Soft Prayer Whispered –16* Dave & Babara Freer & PhillipTurnbull (T) Belay at the same start as On the Loose Again. Travers diagonaly R for 3m to reach the first vertical crack system.Up this to Linear Ledge.

12. On the Loose Again – 15* Steve Cooke & Dave Freer (T) Descend as for Brave, Brave Mouse. Travers L into slopping recess. Climb the RH groove. Open book up steep hollow section. Step L to finish.

SWEET SURRENDER

MID SECTOR: Descend as for Carnival is Over. Over rough ground & gullies till a sloped, but comfortable grass ledge is reached. The mid sector starts where the grassy ledge begins to narrow. The routes start with 10 meters of slab and run over a ledge which is actually the end of Linear Ledge. Finishing on vertical a face. Routes are recorded L to R.

1. Potential 2. Potential 3. Potential 4. Cliff Warfare - 18 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Up ramp onto ledge. Then L into chimney. 5. Gannet View - 12 Dave Freer & Pete Hawkes (T) Slab into chimney. 6. Sinus – 17 ???(T) Up short slab to a ledge. Up using the arete to reach the overhangs. Through the RH overhang. 3 7. Sweet Surrender – 18** 1 2 4 Dave Freer & Carl van der Lingend 5 6 7 8 9 10 (T) Slab to ledge, open book, below roof break right. 8. Double Sence - 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Slab into stair way. 9. No Cam Fit - 19 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Up Slab, into off width open book. 10. Old Man - 14 Dave & Babara Freer & Gordon Bosch (T) Easy slab, onto perfect hand crack, then face.

LOWER SECTOR: This is reached by abseiling to a large sloping ledge about 10m above the sea. Or traverse above the waves from Lower Linear Ledge. This is the fun way of getting there. 11. Ticket To Heaven – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2001 (T) Up LH gully open book. 12. Silver Twos – 18 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) 2m R of the open book gully. Up a featured face with sweet pinches. Belay on the grass below Cliff Warfare.

UPPER SECTOR: This is the shorter sector which is sea ward of the Lower Sector. Routes are recorded R to L and are unfortunately a bit short. Easiest access is to abseil off your tow bar.

13. Suspense Account – 17 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 08/02/2004 (T) Climb the off width to below a small roof. Top out. 14. Flied Lice – 19 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 08/02/2004 (T) 17 19 18 16 Climb the ‘V’ crack just to the L of 22 21 20 15 14 Suspense Account. 15. Don’t Stop Me Know – 18 13

A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2002 (T) Climb the off width open book to the R of the nose. 16. The Werewolf From P.E. – 12 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 01/02/2004 (T) Climb off width to L of nose, onto ramp. Mantle to the L and up ‘V’ crack. 17. Hairy Greek Mother – 11 C.Bester & Justin Mostert 07/02/2004 (T) Follow easy, broken, stepped route to the top. 18. Baby mommy Snake – 17 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 07/02/2004 (T) Up ramp to prominent huge under cut flake. Follow this line to the top. 19. No Retreat! No Surrender! – 20 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 07/02/2004 (T) Start just R of arête. Keep to the crack just to the R of arête. Mantle moves and lay baking to the top. Stay clear of off width to the L. 20. Send Me a Sign – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 07/02/2004 (T) Start on arête. Move L of arête into big off width. 21. Living in Darkness – 21 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 08/02/2004 (T) Up big open book, below black roof. Follow the break into the roof. Move R on a rail. Gain the ramp. Easy going to the top. 22. DMM`s Dead Stinking Arse – 11 C.Bester & Justin Mostert 08/02/2004 (T) Starting on far L of grassy ledge. Cross the slabs below the black roof. Up easy crack in face to the L of the black roof.

DUNKIRK

From Sweet Surrender Mid Sector abseil 45m to the wave cut platform, 2m above the sea. This excellent area can only be climbed on a calm day at low tide. Most routes are about 40m.

1. The Snow Goose - 14 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 10 (T) Stepped slab to ledge, up broken arête to grass ledge(SS) 2. Good Morning Morgan – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Broken steps to ledge. 3. Potential 4. Potential 8 7 6 4 5. Potential 11 9 5 3 6. Potential 1 12 - 14 2 7. Evacuation - 19 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Broken open book into, chiminy. 8. Baby Elephant Walk – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Left up ramp, into open book , up to Sweet Surrender ledge. 9. Stuka - 17 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Medium hand crack. 10. Potential 11. His Eyes are Bigger Than His Balls -19 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Up ledges, into open book, onto face to the top.

The following routes are round the corner to the L and start off a ledge which is higher of the sea than the previous routes.

12. Just Up Allen's Alley – 17*** A.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Hand crack into V shaped chimney, finish up chimney to left. 13. Steel Tormentor – 18*** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Off width into perfect finger crack. 14. Spitfire – 17 A.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T)

Start on platform,broken open book onto lower ramp.

The following routes are further seaward, passed the obvious, but dangerous walk out gully. This area ends with a black and horrible chimney cave. 15. Wafens SS – 16 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 21/02/2004 (T) Climb the awkward off width open book 2,5m R of Train Hard…Fight Easy! Find the easiest way to the top across steps and ledges. 16. Train Hard…Fight Easy! – 15 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 21/02/2004 (T) Up short, but good chimney. Find the easiest way to the top across steps and ledges. 17. Desolation Angel – 18* D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 21/02/2004 (T) Up seemingly short open book. Then up arête directly above. Pass roof to the L. 18. All Fired Up – 17* D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 21/02/2004 (T) Up awful steps to L most open book, which is on the R. Up to L of small roof. 19. Dunkirk’s Toilet – 11 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 21/02/2004 (T) Up awful steps into awful gully. Traverse R just before the grass. 20. Rudely-Hewn Grandeur – 18* D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 21/02/2004 (T) Start 7m R of huge dark chimney. Climb the serrated open book. Move L onto large ledge. 17 Up very nasty unprotected chimney to top of the 16 pillar. Continue up ramps to top out. 18 21. Ticklish Cauliflower – 19** 15 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 21/02/2004 (T) 21 19 Start 2m R of huge dark chimney. Climb the 20 absolutely perfect hand crack to the big ledge. Move R across ledge to climb the very nasty unprotected chimney to top of the pillar. Continue up ramps to top out.

8 THE CARNIVAL IS OVER SECTOR

1 2 THE EYE This sector can be identified by the large boulder which forms a ‘bridge’ between the grassy cliff top and THE the top of the free standing pillar known as the 3 BRIDGE Carnival is Over Pillar. The bridge creates “The Eye”. 4 The easiest & safest walk in is to the DM side of CiO 7 9 Pillar then follow the path bellow Whale Bone Ridge in 5 the direction of DM. Descend on easy ground to below 10 FULL VALUE 6 The Mine Shaft. Follow the path in the direction of MB, FACE 11 below The Needle Wall, to the base of The Carnival is 12 13 14 Over. There is a more direct route, but tricky route on the DM side of the CiO Pillar (S32°43’03.6” E028°19’48.3”). This is not advised when carrying heavy packs.

THE CARNIVAL IS OVER PILLAR 1. Teddy Bear – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall June 2002 (T) This is the scrappy line on the DM side of the Flycatcher slab. 2. Flycatcher – 18* Pete Hawkes, D.Venter & P.Lazarus 06/07/1986 (T) This is the awesome looking slab on the DM side of the Pillar. 3. Lekker – Lekker! – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Start under the arch formed by the Fly Catcher slabs leaning against the main pillar. Climb past a giant chock stone, then L under the arch to gain a loverly lay back. 4. The Carnival is Over – 18*** Dave & Babara Freer (T) Start by climbing the vertical crack in th middle of the seaward face. Trend R to gain the awesome hand crack which widens into an off width. 5. Watching the Ocean –19* Russ Dodding & P.Greenfield 19/04/1987 (T)

Start at the R of the huge flake at the base of seaward face. Climb the thin crack to below a large protruding block. Move L of it and onto small ledge above. Climb the arete, finishing through the V-notch. 6. Yellow Jester – 22*** Kevin Smith 1985 (T) Suposed to climb the MB side of pillar. But it was not written down. 7. Power Finger - 19 Dave Freer & Gordon Bosch (T) This route climbs the Carnival is Over Pillar on the MB side of the large block which forms The Eye or a bridge. 8. Eternal Reward – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) This is slightly away from The Pillar , on the DM side of The Pillar as you walk to wards The Needle Wall. Up Ledges to thinly protected cracks.

FULL VALUE FACE: This is the sea facing wall on the landward side, below The Eye. 9. “S” Bend – 23* Jeremy Colenzo 1986 (T) This is the zig-zag crack system 2nd to the L of the Full Value arete. 10. UNNAMED – 25* Mike Cartright, Kevin Smith & Stuart Middlemiss 1987 (T) First crack to L of the Full Value arete. 11. Full Value – 22*** Stuart Middlemiss & Clive Cursens 1987 (T) Cracks just to the left of arête, using arête.

SUPERHEROS FACE: Face to right of Full Value Face. 12. One White Duck on Your Wall = 0º = Nothing at All – 21*** Dave & Babara Freer & Steve Cooke (T) Strange,slightly over hanging, break R of top over hangs. 13. Potential 14. Haze on the Sky Line - 18 Dave & Babara Freer & PhillipTurnbull (T)

STRANDLOPPER BUTTRESS WALK IN This buttress is below The Carnival is Over directly seaward. Abseil from the large boulders about 10m from The Carnival is Over or look for the scramble down on the DM side of the buttress. This is a low tide fair weather area. The wave cut platform becomes Dunkirk after the ugly, black chimney on the MB side. Routes recorded from MB to DM.

1. Swem Jannie! Swem! – 19** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 21/03/2004 (T) Climb the obvious chimney. This is a really cool chimney. Totally recommended. Especially if you 1 enjoy dark, damp, slippery and awkward routes. 4 3 2 Take a 5 & 6 Friend as well as two No.4 Big Bro. The belayer should ideally have some diving experience. 2. Muscle Cracker – 17 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Start in small open book, up obvious crack. 3. Storm Walker – 18 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Up steps to awkward chimney. Climb the off width. 4. Vuga Vuga – 16 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Up loose, crappy groove to top.

THE NEEDLE WALL

This is the lovely face just over a small gully, to the left of Carnival is Over,

1. Step by Step - 15 A.E.Luck 2001 (S) Easy chimney. 2. Potential Arête. 1 3.The Needle and the Damage Done – 19 7 Dave & Babara Freer & Gordon Bosch (T) Open book, right through the roof, left up thin crack. 2 6 4. Beter Than Sex – 17 3 4 5 TO LOWER Gavin Raubienheimer & G.Peckham 2002 (T) TO CARNIVAL Start a few meters R of The Needle and the Damage WHALE BONE IS OVER Done. Directly below the RH end of the rarrow roof at the top of the face. 5. Sex – 16 Gavin Raubienheimer & G.Peckham 2002 (T) Climb the arete. 6. In Trance - 18 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Start in open book. 7. Stitch by Stitch - 16 A.E.Luck 2001 (S) Large chimney.

MINE SHAFT

On the DM side of The Needle Wall. Easiest access is to find a break on the MB side of Whale Bone Ridge. Follow the path at the base of Whale Bone Ridge. On the DM side descend 15m. The Mine Shaft ridge runs about 20m to The Needle Wall and eventually to the CiO.

1. Hair of My Chiny, Chin, Chin - 15 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) 10 7 Up ledges and blocks to the top. 9 8 2. Mine Shaft – 17** 6 5 11 & 12 Dave & Babara Freer & Steve Cooke (T) 3 Start in dirty resess. Up most prominent line. 4 2 1 3. Alexcor – 17 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Start left in dirty recess, joining Mine Shaft towards top. 4. The Cast Pit – 14 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) FROM WHALE Up slab, left into open book, top out. BONE RIDGE 5. Lucky - 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 (T) Chiminy . 6. Lucky Pet - 20 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 (T) Past veg, up twin cracks. 7. Mine Kamf – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Short off Width. 8. Stone Age Cam – 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Right of cammed boulder. 9. Rain Drops – 19 A.E.Luck & C.Bester A.Luck 2001 (T) Left of cammed boulder. 10. Mine!Mine!Mine – 18 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 (T) Climb the arête. These two routes are round the corner on the DM side & are very short.

11. No Chicken Noodles - 18 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Easy short line on DM face. 12. Chicken Noodle Do - 12 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Easy short line on DM face.

WHALE BONE 7 RIDGE TO CAR PARK

Long ridge just below car park. Situated above The Mine.

11 12 1. Curly, Whirly, Twirly Route 10 13 - 17** A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2001 (T) 3 TOP OF 2 9 Crack in centre of slab. 4 8 MINE 1 6 2. Come Again – 15 5 1 SHAFT G.Peckham, Anthony van Tonder & Bugs Sprouse 2002 TO MINE (T) SHAFT R edge of face left of chossy chimney in corner. 3. Porpous Porn - 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall June 2004 Chossy chimney. 4. Layback Sunday - 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) Layback. 5. On Wings of Fire – 17*** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Huge off width open book…..awesome! 6. Push to Go – 18* A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2001 (T) Start in chimney, break left. 7. Pull to Go - 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Start same as Push to Go, break right. 8. Spout - 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 (T) Chimney. 9. Whale Tail Crack – 16* D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Off width into twin cracks, inside chimney. 10. Sea Breeze – 18** Gavin Raubienheimer & G.Peckham 2002 (T) Prominent deep crack. 11. Tom Cat - 14 G.Peckham & Gavin Raubienheimer 2002 (T) Thin R trending cracks. 1m R of Sea Breeze. 12. Dat Thing - 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Thin crack, past loose looking rock. 13. My Pregnant Aunt – 20** D.C.Marshall & Johnathan Wiggly 2001 (T) Short crack.

HOTTENTOTS LEDGE

This is the narrow “walking” ledge, about 14 metres above the sea. Most of the routes are on the shortish dolorite band above the ledge, which is acessed by abseil. There is also a walk-in ….care should be taken! th Park on the seaward corner of The 5 WALK Headland closest to DM. Decend the grasy IN seaward spur. Find a large freestanding boulder. Fix an ab rope to this boulder. This is an awesome, if not intimidating location. 5 4 3 2 1

Place protection for your belayer! Not for windy days or high tide.

SECTOR 1: This is the ledge just below the dolorite, which can be reached by scrambling down on the MB side. This scramble is not advised unless you know the way. It is difficult to find from above. The ledge is reasonably good though.

1. Jacob Reg Op – 13 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) This is the first crack from the MB end of the ledge. Climb the crack to gain the “V” crack. 2. Joe Ma – 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 (T) Climb the crack to the big “samosa”. Then into the off width. 3. Wandering Breeze – 13 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Perfect, short, easy crack. 4. Moenie Met Die Hotnot Morse Nie – 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Awesome crack after a LH travers. 5. Tavern of the Seas – 13 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Climb the blocky line 4m L of Wandering Breeze. 6. Fire Woman – 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 (T) Start in open book behind blocks. SECTOR 2: This sector is between Sectors 1 and 3. All routes start on Hottentots Ledge which a ledge running through the shale about 14m above the sea. The first few meters is on shale. Care must be taken. Consider this area dangerous. 7. Hunter Gatherer – 15 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Broken open book then climb the broken blocks. Do not repeat. 8. Sugar Talker – 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Line to the L. Easy looking shale, onto big dolorite off width. 9. Mr Perfect – 15 D.C.Marshall & Tim Loft 2001 (T) Start in the open book formed of loose blocks. This is total crap and very dangerous. There is no good gear for the belayer. SECTOR 3: This sector is reached by the same abseil as mentioned above. 10. Strandlopper - 12 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Climb the perfect lay back just L of corner. 11. Van Die Kaap – 16 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Open book crack. 12. Sonic Temple – 16 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2001 (T) Start in the off width. Head up and L. 13. Eland – 16 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2001 (T) Perfect curving crack. Then move L into tricky fatter crack. 14. Born Again – 19 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) L of large overhanging block, then into huge chimney. Through a very tight squeeze hole. This is for the brave and the very slim. Five litres of olive oil or a big jar 13 14 12 11 of vaseline might become 10 nessary.

THE TUSK

This is a magic free standing pillar, shaped like a tusk, on the DM side of The 5TH Headland. Abseil into Jockless and Walruss Crack or use the scurry hole to scramble down.

1. Jockless - 19 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Open book onto the ledge. Across the ledge into the chimney. May have to be climbed in 2 pitches. 2. Walruss Crack – 20** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Awkward off width to top of tusk. Abseil and flick rope from the top. 3. Desperate Dan – 21*** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Perfect crack. Up ledges tend left to top of tusk. Abseil and flick 5 1 rope from the top. 4. Legion of the Damned – 18* D.C.Marshall & 4 2 SCURRY HOLE A.E.Luck 2002 (T) 3 Off width crack . 5. Tavern of the Seas - 17 D.C.Marshall & SEA A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Open book on to face.

BAY OF PLENTY

This is the sweep of rock above and slightly inland of The Tusk. It is easily identified by the lightening shaped crack of SS General. 6 7 4 5 1. SS General – 20*** 3 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2001 (T) 2 8 Flaring crack, traverse right to top out. 2. Hanging Over There - 18 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001 (T) 1 Minor route 3. Leg Over - 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester (T) Minor route. 4. Liquidate Paris - 17 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Start on ledge behind banana trees,small roof. 5. Prosperity - 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Start right of Liquidate Paris, round the corner and down, crack piters out near the top. 6. Lay Back Trad - 16 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Wide crack left of open book. 7. Show me The Way - 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Open book . 8. Walking Giant – 19* A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2001(T) Blocky stack to the right. 9. Three in One – 13 G.Peckham 15/12/2002 (S) Fairly far to the L of SS General. Climb slab to large ledge. Move L on ledge to climb crack in clean corner.

SLIPPERY WHEN WET

This small, some what short crag is found on the DM side of The 5th Headland. About 40m landward of The Tusk and 35m below Bay of Plenty.

1. Wild Man - 12 The Wild Man 2001 (S) Chimney. 2. Delicious Malicious – 21*** D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2001 (T) Thin tricky moves at the start. 3. Mr Perfect – 20** D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 2002 (T) Start in short open book. Move through the roof and finnish left. 4. Black Mermaid – 20 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Perfect chimney between huge flake and main crag. 5. What You See – 14 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2003 (T) 1 More than easy chimney scarmble on the sea ward face. Very short. 4 3 2 6. What You Get – 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2003 (T) Easy crack climb on the sea ward face. Very, very short.

This is the short easy crag below and seaward of the previous 8 routes 7. Slippery When Wet – 13 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Climb the off width to the roof. Climb R to exit roof. 8. Tunnel Rat - 11 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Up chimney crack into chimney cave. 9. Snaking the Mates – 17* D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 2002 (T) Awesome lay back flake on DM side. 10. Seal Harasment – 17 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Short off width onto ledge. DM side.

MADE TO FIT SECTOR

This sector runs discontinusly between Lower Sippery When Wet and Pivotal Motion Sector. There is potential for a few more hard bolted routes.

1. Made to Fit – 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 (T) Climb blocky open book steps on land ward side. 2. PROJECT - 26 D.C.Marshall (8B&C) 3. PROJECT - 27 D.C.Marshall ( C ) To the R of (2). Only top chains at this stage. 4. Fit as a Fiddle – 14 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Easy crack L of open book. 5. Fit as a Porksta – 12 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Big open book. 6. Porksta Endurance – 16 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Fist crack open book, into off width. 7. Exact a Mondo – 14 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) Diagonal crack system through easy ramp. 8. Better Days – 20* D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2002 (T) This route is away to the R of the rest. Climb the fat undercut off width crack. Will need 6 Friend to protect. Short, but sweet! 9. One Alone – 15 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 15/12/2002 (T) Situated on it own to the R of Better Days. Climb the RH arete.

PIVOTAL MOTION SECTOR

Although this area is short it has some potential for harder bolted routes.

1. Pivotal Motion – 14 G.Peckham & Buggs Sprouse 2002 (T) On MB side. Start R of arete. Move L onto arete. Then onto ledge. 2. Triumph of Steel – 22*** D.C.Marshall A.E.Luck May 2003 (5B&C) 3. The Gladiator - 20** C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 2003 (T) Awkward off width through roof.

1 SLIPPERY 2 6 3 WHEN 4 WET 5 7 8 9 10 MADE TO FIT 9 8 5 7 BOOZE CRUISE 6 3 1 4 1 2 2 3 1 2 SMOOTH 3 5 OPERATOR 4 3 3 1 2 PIVOTAL MOTION 2 1 JUST A BREEZE SEA

4. Anti Terror – 18 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 2002 (T) Open book to top of pinnical. 5. Noodle Attack – 14 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Prominent broken crack to L of open book.

BOOZE CRUISE

This is the small sector directly above Just A Breeze.

1. Booze Control - 13 C.Bester & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Start L of twin cracks. Top out in LH crack. 2. Booze Cruise – 12 Buggs Sprouse & G.Peckham 09/01/2002 (T) Climb RH crack and top out R. 3. Trad Intoxicated – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Smooth perfect chimney. L of large hanging chock stone.

JUST A BREEZE

This is a short section of rock to the R of Smooth Operator. See topo for route locations.

1. Just a Breeze – 12 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham 2002 (T) Climb chimney to ledge. Then 2nd chimney to top of block. 2. Angst – 17 G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 15/12/2002 (T) Seaward blunt arête. This is a hi-ball route with no gear (zero). Marshall, having more to live for, refused to follow. 3. Small Fry – 11 D.C.Marshall & G.Peckham .2002 (T)

Start in easy crack. Top out on large boulder, then jump from the top.

SMOOTH OPERATOR

This is the last small piece of rock as the 5th headland curves down towards DM. The routes were scrambled with out ropes, but have fairly good grass landings. See topo of the area for route locations.

1. Forked Tongue – 15 G.Peckham 15/12/2002 (S) Climb the crack with the large wedged block on the DM side. Go L or R where crack splits. 2. Smooth Operator – 19* G.Peckham & D.C.Marshall 09/01/2002 (T) Climb the seaward face starting on the rock shelf. Passed two pockets to the top. There is no gear what so ever.

OUTLAW CRAG TOP

Driving towards DM, just after the dairy (square building to the R), pass through a gate. Outlaw Crag is in the river valley to the R. Although it is not fenced off from the road and there is no indication that this private property…..it is how ever private property! The farmer definitely has a gun and so do his mates….we saw them! And they have ammunition….yes they were shooting at us. We suggest the next fellows who climb there contact him first, as he seems like he could be quite a nice fellow if you aren’t trespassing on his land. There is 2 a lovely spot at the top for a free camp. 1 Unfortunately the routes are not to plentiful or wonderful. All are a bit short and DOWN HILL crap. So don’t bother unless you have finished all the rest. The climbed sector is a free stander separated from a cliff by a shallow gully.

1. Forgive Us Our Trespassing – 14 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck July 2003 (T) Up stepped blocks on the river side of free stander, to top of pinnacle. 2. Lucky Luke – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2003 (T) Up easy cracks to big ledge. Up crack. Travers R to huge flake. Top out.

BLACK ROCK 4

From the Double Mouth campsite, walk along the beach in the direction of East London. Cross the river. This may be best at low tide. But the river / lagoon is often blind, making it easy to cross on the sand bank. Continue across the gorgeous sandy beach to the dolerite out crops on the far side. The crags are short and sort of unimpressive, but not that 1 bad if you are looking for some bouldering or a few easy routes. It’s a nice walk with the family S32°44’02.0” 2 on that wasted compromise day. Take shoes E028°17’50.4” & a chalk bag. There is an awesome largish 3 5 round boulder with on reasonably tricky boulder problem set away from the crags. Problem is one that Derek Marshall attempted, but never got. This is worth playing on.

These routes are on the largest looking out crop. 1. Cling to the dream – 12 C.Bester & A.E.Luck July 2003 (T) Easy line on the far L. 2. Smart as Can Be – 14 C.Bester & A.E.Luck July 2003 (T) Easy steps breaking L. 3. Silent Symptoms - 16 A.E.Luck & C.Bester July 2003 (T) Inner chimney. Through hole in the roof.

4. Leopards & Lilies – 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester July 2003 (T) Outer chimney. 5. Seal Struck – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall July 2003 (T) Smooth chimney to the R of the prominent chimney.

LALAPANZI

DIRECTIONS: From the N2 Take the R349 to Morgan UMTATA Bay. About 10km before the Morgan Bay turn off, look N2 out for the Lalapanzi signs on the L. Book in and make EL arrangements at the top farm house and get the keys. Then head further down the road (2km) to the lower farm R349 house. Past the stables. The track is for high suspension vehicles, but not impossible for normal cars in the dry season. Stay on the main track, through a lot of gates. LALAPANZI Eventually the track will end in a turning circle. A short path leads to a pedestrian gate. This will be locked. But you would have collected the keys at the top farm house. KEI MOUTH 20m further is an awesome look out and camping spot. MORGAN BAY This is the spot for a beer while the sun is going down. HAGA HAGA ACCESS: Set on a private farm, which at this stage is open to the paying public. Please phone Howard at 043-8411615 to arrange climbing and keys. There may be a fee to use the crags, if you are not using the accommodation. There are ex-32 Battalion fellows cruising the bush in search of stock thieves and poachers so don’t be alarmed when they pop out. They are tame. Howard would also arrange a drop off if you don’t have a bakkie or high suspension vehicle.

WALK IN: About 10 minutes max. Easy. TO-DO: Lalapanzi has much to offer non-climbing family and many off day activities. Abseiling, hunting, horse riding, paint ball, walking trails, fishing trips, canoe trips on the Kei and bird watching. Entertaining folks is their business.

ACCOMMODATION: There is a range of accommodation available at Lalapanzi. Bush camping, bungalows, comfy cottages and the like. We only used 70m ABSEIL the bush camping, it is very informal, rough, but awesome. There is no water laid on, so bring CRIB SECTOR your own and please don’t bitch about the facilities or lack of SKY FACE GATE facilities. Please support the LOOKOUT accommodation as the owners are really pro climbing and are kind VUGA VUGA PARKING enough to allow us to grace their GATE rock faces. Accommodation is one BIG BAD WOLF of the core incomes of Lalapanzi. I GATE THREE heard there was a pub at the top LITTLE PIGS farm house, but fortunately we bought our own beers & had them at the lookout with the sun going LALAPANZI 2ND down. LALAPANZI MAIN GATE FARM HOUSE & FARM HOUSE & STABLES GENERAL: A few bolted routes and ACCOMODATION a lot of shortish trad. Great scenery. Great bush camping & a very still R349 TO sun downer spot way off the beaten MORGAN BAY track. However, the climbing is not that brilliant.

ROCK TYPE: Clean hard dolerite set in thick bush. Lots of strange

45 cracks. HISTORY: Lalapanzi is a relatively new climbing area. Jeff Smith the owner in 2002 wanted to offer climbing as part of his adventure camp. The few routes that were opened were opened in various waves by the Buffalo Bastards.

WARNINGS & HAZARDS: 1. Take tick repellent. Ticks can be a issue. 2. Good place to find snakes. 3. It can be hot, make sure you have enough ice in your cooler box & that you put it in the shade during the day. 4. The farmer offers horse riding. Horses bite, kick, and stamp on toes, smell bad & crap all over the place. They don’t however taste bad, especially in pollony or salami, & I’ve heard marinade & skewered. The farmer expects hunters to hunt buck so may be offended if you bag his horses….even the old ones. This is a dreadful shame & a waste of horses. 5. Horses attract horsy chicks. They can be cute….till you realize they are completely psycho. Don’t let horsy chicks, girlfriend or wife know about the horse riding; or you will never hear the end of it. You may even be forced to go horse riding which would be a total bind, especially if you would prefer to lay about in the shade with a beer on your off day. 6. Make sure you pitch your tent before you start with sundowners.

BIG BAD WOLF SECTOR

From the lookout find the path which runs to the L for about 65m. Descend a fairly steep gully, to the Big Bad Wolf Sector, which is on the LH side of the base of the gully. All the routes are about 14m high and are fairly sweet.

1. Beer, Boxing and Blonds – 15 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 29/05/2004 (T) Up a very cool chimney using the finger crack on the RH side. Then traverse L to a hand crack. Belay from top of block to the L. 2. Baby! I Don’t Need It! – 15 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 29/05/2004 (T) Up jagged crack, with an awesome layback, to belay next to free standing block. 4 3. Strange Woman from Tokyo – 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 1 29/05/2004 (T) 2 3 Up the front ramp. 4. Perihelion – 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 29/05/2004 (T) Up the off width around the RH corner. Not too nice.

LITTLE PIGS CRAG

Follow the path around the corner in the up stream direction for about 30m to a small face. This is ideal for beginners to start leading trad. Although all the routes are short, they are really nice to climb. Average height is about 12m. Exit routes by abseiling from good trees.

1. Moving in Stereo – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 30/05/2004 (T) Up the LH arête. Moving R into crack system. 8 2. Be My Angel – 16 4 5 6 7 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 30/05/2004 (T)

1 2 3 Up crack 1m L of arête. 3. Pig In Shit – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 30/05/2004 (T) Up finger crack 1m R of Be My Angel. 4. Blessings in the Realm – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 29/05/2004 (T) Up the prominent hand crack 1.5m R of Pig In Shit.

5. Blind Joans Born 69 – 18 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 30/05/2004 (T) Up the crack 1m R of Blessings in the Realm. 6. Chicks who Cut Cake and Eat It – 17 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 30/05/2004 (T) Up twin cracks 1,5m R of Blind Joans Born 69. 7. Cross Legged and Lock Jawed – 16 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 30/05/2004 (T) Up three easy steps to the right of a crack. 8. Hakuna Matatana - 14 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 30/05/2004 (T) Up the last easy slab before the crag ends.

VUGA VUGA SECTOR

This is the not so good face below the lookout on the down stream side. Work your way down on the up stream side of the lookout though…. some serious bush out there. Have fun!

1. Viva Dr Death – 16 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Up steps into ‘V’ notch, with a root. 2. Piss Lielie – 18 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) At the rear of the chimney up the large chock stones in mid section. Break out at the top. 3. I Guess That’s Why They Call It Trad – 19 A.E.Luck & D.C.Marshall 2002 (T) Up front of chimney.

SKY FACE

Sky Face is the highest and most impressive piece of rock at Lalapanzi. The commercial abseil rig runs this face. It is perfect. About 30m high. Some good trad and a few bolted routes. From the gate follow the path R for about 200m. Either abseil into Sky Face or walk a little further to a steep scramble down.

1. Power Quest - 18 17m C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 2004 2. Take the Power – 16 25m D.C.Marshall &

4 G.Jacobs 2001 (T) 1 5 2 3 Climb the off width to the L of the awesome main face. This was the first line to be climbed at Lalapanzi. 3. True Patriot – 20 26m D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 2004 (T) Climb the bolts on the RH arête. 4. Buffalo Soldiers – 17 30m D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Climb the prominent hand crack to the R of the face. 5. Ride the Sky – 18 30m D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 2002 (T) Climb the ‘V” shaped off width which forms an over hang.

CRIB SECTOR This small area is across the grassy slope, which is the bottom of the Sky Face descent gully. Try & avoid this crag. 1. Man On Route – 17 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 06/06/2004 (T) Climb the prominent hand crack. Onto veg ledge. Up open book to belay off a platform. 2. Project 3. Trad For Nothing – 15 A.E.Luck & C.Bester 06/06/2004 (T)

Up the broken off width. 1 2 3