The Circle Cardie ______

Ladies XXS to 5XL

What’s Inside ______

Getting Started 4 Printing Your Pattern 5 Settings 5 How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers) 5 Printing the Instructions 6 The Circle Cardie 7 Size Chart 7 Finished Garment Measurements 8 Materials & Tools 9 Cutting Instructions 11 Fabric Tips 14 Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics 14 Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet 15 Sewing Instructions 16 Preparation 16 STEP 1 – Center Back Seam 17 STEP 2 – Shoulder Seams 18 STEP 3 – Collar and Neckline 20 STEP 4 – Sleeve Band Option 25 STEP 5 – Long and ¾ Sleeve Options 29 STEP 6 – Turned Under Hem Option 32 STEP 7 – Band Hem Option 33 STEP 8 – Ruffle Hem Option 37 Pattern Pieces 44

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Product Sales & Licensing Information ______

This pattern is copyrighted 2018 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com.

Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we’d love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it’s up to you.

The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.

Best of luck and happy sewing!

Getting Started ______

Need help? Have a question?

Join our Facebook Group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme/

You can get help, ask questions, share your tips and shortcuts and share your creations! We’re a friendly bunch and we love helping out and seeing what you’ve made. 

Before you get started…

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Make sure to wash, dry and press your fabric before you cut out your pattern pieces. Fabric can often shrink by significant amounts on the first wash. To avoid your beautiful creation ending up an inch too small or twisted out of shape, pre-wash the fabric now before you get started. It might be a pain if you just want to start straight away, but a bit of prep now means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons or anything they could remove, choke on or get caught on. Never let them sleep in garments with ties on and use caution if you are at all unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Printing Your Pattern ______

Settings

The pattern is printed at the back of this booklet. It is designed to be printed on US letter paper at 100%. If you wish to print on A4, please download the A4 size version. Make sure that the “fit to page” option is not checked on your printer options.

On the first page, you will find a 1-inch square test box. Print this page first on its own and check the measurements of the square. Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, you can print the rest of the pattern pages.

This is a “no-trim” pattern which means you don’t need to trim the edges off around the rectangles unless you wish to. Once you’ve printed your pattern, tape the rectangles together using the diagram here for reference, overlapping the circles in each corner. Each page is marked in the bottom left corner. The numbers go across; the letters go downwards. EG the first row of pages will be A1, A2, A3 and so on. The row below that B1, B2, B3 and so on.

The sizes are differentiated by both different line styles, and different colors. It is up to you whether you wish to print in color, or in black and white.

See the chart on the next page for which pages to print for your pattern pieces

Print at 100% (no scale), in black and white or color

How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers)

This pattern uses layers so you can print only the sizes you want. Open the pattern in Adobe Reader (not your internet browser). Click on the “layers” button on the very left of the screen. Unselect all sizes except the size you want. Leave the “Common Elements” and “Splitting Layer” on. Then print!

NOTE – In this example only size 18-24 months would print.

Printing the Instructions

The instructions are designed for everyone from beginner upwards, so there are a LOT of pictures throughout the instructions. For this reason, some people do not print these in full (however you can if you wish!). If, however, you want to print a one page quick-glance cheat sheet (no photos, intermediate / advanced level instructions), you will find this on page 15.

Which pattern pages to print Cardie length Sleeve Option Hem Option (or use cutting chart) Short Long Sleeveless ¾ Sleeve Long Sleeve Band Hem Ruffle Hem (Band) XXS 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-66 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-74 65-67, 80- 54, 60-62, 55, 60-63, 82 68-69 68-70, 76 XS 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 54, 60-62, 55, 60-63, 82 68-70 68-71, 76-77 S 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 55, 60-62, 55, 60-63, 82 68-70 68-71, 76-77 M 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 54, 60-63, 55, 60-63, 83 68-70 68-71, 76-78 L 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 54, 60-63, 55, 60-63, 83 68-70 68-71, 76-78 XL 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 54, 60-63, 55, 60-63, 83 68-70 68-71, 76-78 XXL 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 54, 60-63, 55, 60-64, 83 68-70 68-72, 76-79 3XL 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 54, 60-63, 55, 60-64, 83 68-70 68-72, 76-79 4XL 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 54, 60-63, 55, 60-64, 83 68-70 68-72, 76-79 5XL 44-46, 52- 44-46, 52- 65-67 48-50, 56-58 48-51, 56-59 72-75 65-67, 80- 54, 60-63, 55, 60-64, 83 68-70 68-72, 76-79

The Circle Cardie ______

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The Circle Cardie is a quick, easy sew with stunning, stylish results! The gorgeous waterfall drape down the front makes it perfect for both drapey fabrics and comfy cozy ones.

With a flattering comfortable fit, you can select from 2 length options (short or long), 3 hem options (plain, band or ruffle) and 3 sleeve options (sleeveless, ¾ and full length).

Size Chart

This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:

Ladies Size Chart Chest Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM XXS 30 – 31 71 – 79 24 – 25 61 – 63.5 33 – 34 84 – 86 XS 32 – 33 81 – 84 26 – 27 66 – 68.5 35 – 36 89 – 91.5 S 34 – 35 86 – 89 27 – 28 68.5 – 71 37 – 38 94 – 96.5 M 36 – 37 91.5 – 94 29 – 30 73.5 – 76 39 – 40 99 – 101.5 L 38 – 39 96.5 – 99 31 – 32 79 – 81 41 – 42 104 – 106.5 XL 40 – 42 101.5 – 106.5 33 – 35 84 – 86 43 – 45 109 – 114 XXL 43 – 45 109 – 114 36 – 38 91 – 96.5 46 – 48 117 – 122 3XL 46 – 48 117 – 122 39 – 42 99 – 106.5 49 – 51 124.5 – 129.5 4XL 49 – 51 124.5 – 129.5 43 – 46 109 – 117 52 – 54 132 – 137 5XL 52 – 54 132 – 137 47 – 50 119 – 127 55 – 57 140 – 145

Finished Garment Measurements

Ladies Finished Garment Measurements (inches) Length from back neckline to hem Sleeve length from sleeve cap to hem “Short” Cutting Line “Long” Cutting Line ¾ Full Turned Band Ruffle Turned Band Ruffle Sleeve Sleeve Under Hem Hem Under Hem Hem Hem Hem XXS 19.8 21.3 25.8 28.2 29.7 34.2 14.3 22.3 XS 20.4 21.9 26.4 28.8 30.3 34.8 14.6 22.7 S 21.2 22.7 27.2 29.6 31.1 35.6 14.9 23.0 M 22.0 23.5 28.0 30.4 31.9 36.4 15.3 23.4 L 22.7 24.2 28.7 31.1 32.6 37.1 15.6 23.8 XL 23.7 25.2 29.7 32.1 33.6 38.1 15.9 24.3 XXL 24.5 26.0 30.5 32.9 34.4 38.9 16.3 24.8 3XL 25.5 27.0 31.5 33.8 35.3 39.8 16.8 25.3 4XL 26.3 27.8 32.3 34.7 36.2 40.7 17.3 25.8 5XL 27.1 28.6 33.1 35.5 37.0 41.5 17.7 26.3

* All measurements in inches ** Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

Fitting Notes: • Measure, measure, measure – Please measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished garment measurements. • Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice/old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments. • Picking your size – If you fall between sizes, select the size with the correct bust measurement. That way the shoulders, arms, and upper back are likely to fit well. The waist and hips are very full and generously sized on this pattern, so you are unlikely to need to grade in or out there. However, if you are uncertain, make a muslin to check. Then, grade in or out at the correct waist and hip size as needed. • Ladies Sizing – The ladies pattern has been designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches, with a sewing C cup bust. That said, the cardigan is not designed to ‘do up’ at the front and is very generous in the front ‘waterfall’ of the hemline so it should comfortably fit from a A to J cup without need for a bust adjustment. • Height Adjustments - There are lengthen/shorten lines for adjusting the height for ladies. For children, blend sizes to adjust for height. If you blend sizes and need to calculate band lengths, measure the edge of your cardie and multiply this by 0.95 to determine how long the band needs to be. Divide this into even sections as necessary to fit on your fabric and follow the instructions to connect and use them. • If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources at https://pinterest.com/rebeccajpage/sewing-fitting-advice/

Materials & Tools

Suitable for knit/stretch fabrics only. Not suitable for wovens ** • Your fabric for this pattern needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a light or medium weight fabric. • Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of unstretched fabric should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches. • The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. Recovery ensures your cardie maintains its shape and fit longer without becoming baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric, it returns back to its original size. • Both 4-way and 2-way stretch fabric will work well. A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all directions) will give more drape than a 2-way stretch (only stretches in one direction). It will also swing and swish more along the ‘waterfall’ style front edges. • Light to medium weight stretch fabrics such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine will give a lovely drape and swing. • Warmer and heavier fabrics such as sweater knits, hacci knits, stretch wool and interlock will give a snugger, cosy look with less drape. • The other property to consider is how open the weave is. A tight weaver such as jersey will give a more solid look than a more open weave such as a stretch wool or some sweater knits which can look more like a knitted garment. **If you are adding a ruffle, this can be done with a woven. A lightweight fabric works well to create a unique option for this cardi.

If you are doing any ladies size in 45in or 115cm wide fabric, or a ladies size XXL to 5XL in 60 inch or 150cm wide fabric: - The body piece will be too wide to cut it on the fold as per the pattern piece. - You will need to cut your body piece in two sections (see step 1 for how to do this). - Alternatively, you could use a 4-way stretch fabric and turn your pattern piece down the grain so you are able to cut it on the fold. - Do not turn your pattern piece down the grain if you are using 2-way stretch fabric. The hemline and ‘waterfall’ front effect will distort while wearing it and the fit across the shoulders is likely to be uncomfortable. If you are using a 2-way stretch fabric, you will need to cut in 2 sections as per step 1. - Fabric estimates for these sizes are for cutting your body piece in two sections. If you turn and cut down the grainline, you may find you need slightly more or less fabric depending on which size you are doing.

Fabric Estimates (45 inch / 115cm wide fabric) Short Cardie Long Cardie Band or Turned Under Ruffle Hem Band or Turned Under Ruffle Hem Hem Hem No ¾ or Long No ¾ or Long No ¾ or Long No ¾ or Long Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves XXS 1 yard 1 ½ yards 2 ½ yards 2 ½ yards 2 yards 2 yards 3 yards 3 yards XS to XL 2 yards 2 yards 2 ¾ yards 2 ¾ yards 2 ¼ yards 2 ¼ yards 3 yards 3 yards XXL to 5XL 2 ¼ yards 3 yards 3 yards 4 yards 2 ½ yards 3 yards 3 ¼ yards 4 yards

Fabric Estimates (60 inch / 150cm wide fabric) Short Cardie Long Cardie Turned Under Hem Band or Ruffle Hem Turned Under Hem Band or Ruffle Hem No ¾ or Long No ¾ or Long No ¾ or Long No ¾ or Long Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves Sleeves XXS 1 yard 1 ½ yards 1 ¾ yards 1 ¾ yards 1 yard 1 ½ yards 2 yards 2 yards XS to XL 1 ¼ yards 1 ¾ yards 1 ¾ yards 2 ¾ yards 1 ¼ yards 2 yards 2 yards 2 ¾ yards XXL to 5XL 2 yards 2 ¼ yards 2 ¾ yards 2 ¾ yards 2 ½ yards 3 yards 3 yards 3 yards

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print or a fabric with nap you may need more.

You will also need: • Thread to match • Optional: clear elastic (may be used to stabilize some fabrics, especially in the shoulder seams) • Tools such as a sewing machine, ruler, pins and/or clips and scissors. A serger or overlocker is optional but not required.

Cutting Instructions ______

Before cutting out, you need to decide which option/s you are going to use. You can mix and match any hemline lengths and any hemline finishes. The available options are:

Option What it looks like Which pattern pieces you’ll need

Hemline length (pick one option)

This gives a long cardie, finishing mid to • 1x Body piece cut on the fold (or 2x low thigh, depending on what finish you Long mirror image body pieces as per step go for. 1), cut to the ‘Long’ cutting line.

This gives a shorter cardie, finishing • 1x Body piece cut on the fold (or 2x Short between the hip and bottom, depending mirror image body pieces as per step on what finish you go for. 1), cut to the ‘Short’ cutting line.

Hemline Finish (pick one option)

A simple hemline where you just turn the raw edge under and topstitch (or you Turned under could use a roll hem). The shortest of the No additional pieces required. three finishes.

If using pattern pieces: • Cut using either the Band Hem Option (Short) or Band Hem Option This is a plain band around the hem. It (Long) pattern pieces depending on adds a little length but not as much as the which hemline length you chose ruffle. It goes all the way around the full above. Hemband circle of the hemline. The hemband is If using the cutting charts: slightly shorter than the hem so it wil • There are measurements for the full curve under slightly. length of the hemband you need. Either cut in one continuous piece, or in several smaller sections and you will join them together in step 7.

This is a gathered ruffles all the way If using pattern pieces: around the hemline. The gathering will • Cut using either the Ruffle Hem show around the neckline, draping down Option (Short) or Ruffle Hem Option the front and around the hem. The Ruffle (Long) pattern pieces depending on gathering is approximately 1.25x the which hemline length you chose length of the hem so it is noticable but above. not full. If using the cutting charts:

• There are measurements for the full length of the hemband you need. Either cut in one continuous piece, or in several smaller sections and you will join them together in step 8.

Sleeves (pick one option) (Ladies option, place a pin on the back side of the sleeve to mark it for later)

This has no sleeve, but a band around the Sleeveless armhole to finish it. • 2x Armhole band.

• 2x Sleeves (cut to the ‘Long’ cutting line). For children’s sizes, these are cut on the fold and will be identical. A long semi-fitted, just past-the-wrist Long Sleeve For ladies sizes, you will need to cut sleeve. 1x mirror image pair (1x left, 1x right sleeve).

• 2x Sleeves (cut to the ‘3/4 sleeve’ cutting line). For children’s sizes A ¾ length semi-fitted sleeve. Finishes ½ these are cut on the fold and will be ¾ Sleeve way down the forearm. identical. For ladies sizes, you will need to cut 1x mirror image pair (1x left, 1x right sleeve).

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Body - If you are able to cut your body piece on the fold (either by going against the grain as mentioned in the fabric section previously, or if your fabric is wide enough), cut this now as per the pattern piece. If not, do not cut yet, but wait until step 1 of the tutorial to cut.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below. These are the total finished lengths and heights the rectangular pieces need to be. For the longer pieces like the ruffles and hembands, the pattern pieces provided are cut in smaller lengths and joined together in step 7 or 8. If your fabric is wide enough and you are following the cutting chart, feel free to cut them in one long length, or in smaller sections and join together at step 7 or 8.

Ladies Cutting Chart (inches) Armhole Band Long Hemline Option Short Hemline Option Option (cut 2) Hemband Finish Ruffle Finish (cut 1) Hemband Finish Ruffle Finish (cut 1) (cut 1) (cut 1) Height Length Height Length Height Length Height Length Height Length XXS 1.75 13.7 3.75 97.9 6.75 128.9 3.75 78.8 6.75 103.7 XS 1.75 14.3 3.75 101.3 6.75 133.3 3.75 83.7 6.75 110.1 S 1.75 15.0 3.75 106.1 6.75 139.7 3.75 85.6 6.75 112.6 M 1.75 15.7 3.75 110.4 6.75 145.3 3.75 90.0 6.75 118.5 L 1.75 16.5 3.75 114.5 6.75 150.6 3.75 94.3 6.75 124.1 XL 1.75 17.7 3.75 119.9 6.75 157.8 3.75 100.5 6.75 132.2 XXL 1.75 18.4 3.75 123.4 6.75 162.4 3.75 104.0 6.75 136.9 3XL 1.75 19.4 3.75 129.1 6.75 169.9 3.75 109.4 6.75 144.0 4XL 1.75 20.3 3.75 133.9 6.75 176.2 3.75 113.9 6.75 149.9 5XL 1.75 21.1 3.75 138.7 6.75 182.6 3.75 118.8 6.75 156.4

* All measurements in inches

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric in half. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Fabric Tips ______

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

On a REGULAR sewing machine

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine. • Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches. • Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right. • Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle. • Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine. • Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you. • Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use. From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet (full step-by-step tutorial starts on next page) ______

⅜ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ¼ inch

Preparation – 1. Transfer underarm marking to both sides. Sewing – 1. Center Back Seam – If you cut on the fold, skip to step 2. Fold fabric right sides together. Place pattern piece ⅜ inch from edge of fabric. Cut, then stitch or serge along center back. Press seam to one side. 2. Shoulder Seams – Do not use a serger for this step. Measure ⅜ inch from neckline along shoulder seam. Mark with a pin. Right sides together, align shoulder seams, starting from the outside edge to the marked pin. Stitch from the pin to the outside edge. Repeat for second shoulder. 3. Collar and Neckline – Fold body of shirt right sides together. Stitch collar center back together. OPTIONAL: Finish seam edge. Open garment flat and press seam to one side. Fold collar rights sides together with garment body. Align neckline and clip ⅔ of the seam allowance of collar section only. With collar on top, pin each end by shoulder stitching, then the center before pinning the rest of the neckline edge. Stitch from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. OPTIONAL: Finish seam edge. Press shoulder and neckline seams up. 4. Sleeve Band Option – Sew short ends of band, right sides together. Press seam to side. Fold band, wrong sides together along the length. Quarter band and armhole. Match quarters, right sides together. Stitch, stretching only the band. Repeat for other side. 5. Long and ¾ Sleeve Option – For sizes 0-24 months: finish sleeve hem edge, if desired. Fold up ⅜ inch, press, pin and stitch. For LADIES, mark front and back of sleeve cap. Pin and sew long edge of sleeves. Pin sleeve to cardie. Stitch sleeve on. OPTIONAL: finish raw edges. Press seams away from sleeve. Check sleeve length and shorten if necessary. Finish hem edge. Fold up ⅜ inch, press, pin, and stitch. Repeat for other side. 6. Turned Under Hem Option – OPTIONAL: Finish raw edge of cardie. Fold edge under ⅜ inch, press, pin, and stitch. 7. Band Hem Option – Attach all band pieces, right sides together, using short edges to create a circle. Press all seams to one side. Fold in half, wrong sides together along the length. Quarter band and cardie. Match quarter points and stitch. OPTIONAL: Finish raw edge. Press band outwards and seam allowance in. OPTIONAL: Topstitch. 8. Ruffle Hem Option – Attach all ruffle pieces, right sides together, using short edges to create a circle. OPTIONAL: Finish raw edges. Press all seams to one side. Quarter ruffle and cardie. OPTIONAL: Hem ruffle pieces here. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches. Match quarter points. Gather each quarter ruffle section to the cardie. Stitch. Remove gathering stitches. OPTIONAL: Finish raw edge. Press Ruffle outwards and seam allowance in.

Sewing Instructions ______

⅜ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ¼ inch

Preparation

Mark the Underarm

Transfer the underarm marking from the pattern piece to both armholes on your fabric.

The marking you are looking for is a small notch (straight line) which at the bottom of the underarm.

To mark the underarm, either place a pin into your fabric, or mark with tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric pen. Make sure to mark both armholes (left and right). You will need this marking later to line up the sleeve or armhole band.

STEP 1 – Center Back Seam

If you cut your body piece on the fold so that it is one piece of fabric, skip to step 2. If not and you wish to cut your body piece in two separate pieces, follow below.

1.1 Fold your fabric so it is right sides together.

Place your pattern piece on the fabric. Cut around the piece as normally. However, when you get to the center back seam where the foldline is, cut leaving a ⅜ inch seam allowance (see the extra line of fabric to the left of the pattern piece, this is where you want to cut leaving an additional ⅜ inch seam allowance).

1.2 Keeping your fabric right sides together, stitch or serge the center back seam using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – If you are using a regular sewing machine, make sure to use a stretch or lightning bolt stitch so it stretches with your fabric while you are wearing it.

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam using either an overlock stitch on your sewing machine or with a serger.

1.3 Open the garment out and press the seam to the side.

STEP 2 – Shoulder Seams

You are going to be stitching the two pink lines together to form the shoulder seam. Stitch this on a regular sewing machine. Do not use a serger for this step at all. If you wish to finish the raw edges either with a serger or an overlock stitch, you will do this later after you do the collar in step 3.

2.1 Measure ⅜ inch from the neckline out on to the shoulder seam. Mark with a pin.

2.2 With right sides together, start to fold the shoulder seams together. First just pin the outside edge.

NOTE – You’ll find the shoulder seams are marked on the pattern pieces.

2.3 Using the pin you placed in step 2.1, pin the other end of the shoulder seams together. So, your shoulder seam should now be pinned from the outside shoulder edge, to ⅜ inch before the neckline.

Do not stretch or manipulate the fabric. Just keep it flat, with the raw edges matching along the shoulder line. The pin from step 2.1 will be ⅜ inch into the section that extends upwards (which will eventually be part of our neckline).

2.4 Stitch from your pin ⅜ inch in from the neckline to the shoulder edge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Use a regular sewing machine, not a serger. Do not finish the raw edges yet.

OPTIONAL: stitch clear elastic into your seam to stabilize your fabric. Cut the elastic to the same length as your seam line. Be sure to exercise the elastic before using it.

2.5 Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 to stitch the other shoulder seam.

STEP 3 – Collar and Neckline

You will be stitching the collar center back seam together along the pink line, then opening the garment out flat and stitching the two green lines together to form the neckline.

3.1 Fold the body piece right sides together.

Find the two collar center back sections and stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

3.2 OPTIONAL - If you wish to, finish the center back collar seam only using a serger or an overlock stitch.

3.3 Open the garment out so that it is flat. Press your collar center back seam to one side.

3.4 Fold the collar right sides together with the rest of the body piece.

Align the raw edges of the neckline (the green lines on the diagram above).

3.5 You need to clip into the seam allowance of the collar section only. What you are trying to do is clip close to where your shoulder seam from step 2.4 starts so that in the next step, you can easily stitch across the neckline without the fabric pulling.

Do not snip all the way into the corner where the stitching starts, but ⅔ of the way into the seam allowance.

If you cut too far, it will leave a hole so err on the side of caution. If the fabric does not lay flat in the next step, you can always snip a little further in.

TIP – Use the very tip of your scissors for maximum control.

3.6 With the collar piece on top, pin at either end where your shoulder stitching starts.

Matching the raw edges, pin in the center. If you stitched your body piece in two sections, the center back collar seam should line up with the center back body seam. If not, it will just be in the middle.

There will be a fold of fabric coming down from where each shoulder seam starts (where your first pins are). Fold them out towards the shoulders so they aren’t in the way.

3.7 Pin the remainder of the seam. Make sure to keep the raw edges lined up so that the neckline is the right shape once you’ve stitched it.

3.8 Stitch the back neckline seam using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Start your stitching exactly where the shoulder seam ends, stitching to where the other shoulder seam starts.

To do this, place your needle down exactly over this stitching before lowering your presser foot. Then you can see you are starting in exactly the right place.

3.9 If you turn your garment over, you should now have a continuous seam from one shoulder edge all the way to the other.

If there are any gaps between your neckline and shoulder seams, go back and stitch those now, being careful not to catch any folds of fabric in the stitching.

OPTIONAL – If you wish to finish the raw edges, serge or overlock stitch along the full shoulder and neckline seam now.

3.10 Press the shoulder and neckline seams up towards the collar, away from the garment.

TIP – If you are doing one of the smaller sizes, you might find it easiest to do this over the edge of your ironing board so that you can curve the garment a bit. Place your iron on the main body of the garment and move it up towards the collar. If you go from the collar

down, it can be quite tricky with lots of folds of fabric in the way.

Your garment should now be one large circle with armholes.

STEP 4 – Sleeve Band Option

If you intend to make the long or ¾ sleeve option, skip to step 5. Otherwise follow below for the Sleeve Band Option.

4.1 Join the band pieces into a circle by placing the band right sides together length ways and stitch or serge the short ends of the piece using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you are doing a larger size, fold the band length ways and pin the fabric so that the right sides are together all the way along, that way you know the band will not be twisted when the ends are stitched.

NOTE – The raw edges of the band will be hidden inside so if you are using a sewing machine, there is no need to finish them.

4.2 Press the seam to one side.

4.3 Fold the band with wrong sides together. It should now be a circle with the right sides facing outwards. Press.

Place one pin where the seam from step 4.1 is. Fold in half and place a pin at the other side of the circle so that it is divided in half.

4.4 You are now going to place the band inside the armhole. You want the right sides together.

Turn your cardie wrong side out. Place your band with the raw edges pointing away from the cardie, and the fold pointing towards it.

The pin where your seam from step 4.1 should match with the underarm notch you marked in the preparation step.

The pin on the opposite side of the armband circle should match with the shoulder seam.

Matching the raw edges, pin in place at the underarm notch and the shoulder seam. You should be pinning through both raw edges of the band and the main fabric.

4.5 Now pin around the rest of the armhole.

The armband is slightly smaller than the armhole so you will need to hold it taut to pin it. Start by pinning in between the two pins you have, then dividing the gap in half and pinning again until you’ve got enough pins you are happy that the raw edges are aligned all the way around the armhole.

4.6 Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Make sure to hold the fabric taut so it aligns, but do not stretch it. The armband is only 5% smaller than the armhole so it should not require any pulling.

TIP – If you are serging, I would still recommend stitching this on your sewing machine first, then just serging to finish the raw edges in the next step. As the armband is slightly smaller than the armhole opening, it can be easy to accidentally serge a pucker in the seam. Stitching using a sewing machine for this bit gives you more control, then you can finish it after.

4.7 OPTIONAL – Serge or overlock stitch the raw edges to finish.

4.8 Turn the garment right side out and press the band outwards, with the seam allowance facing into the garment.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance in place on the body using a zigzag, lightning bolt, coverstitch, or twin needle.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.8 for the other armhole and armband.

Skip to step 6.

STEP 5 – Long and ¾ Sleeve Options

If you intend to make the long or ¾ sleeve option, follow below. The steps are the same for both the long and ¾ sleeves.

5.1 If you are sewing a child size 2 years and above, or a ladies size, skip to step 5.2.

If you are sewing a 0-24 month size, optionally serge or overlock the bottom raw edge of the sleeve to finish. Then, hem by turning it the bottom edge under by ⅜ inch. Press and pin. Stitch close to the folded edge.

5.2 For ladies sizes, the sleeve cap (the rounded edge at the top of the sleeve) is not symmetrical. Mark from the pattern piece onto the sleeve which is the front and back of each sleeve so that when you go to put it on the cardie, you know which will be the left and right sleeve. If you put them on the wrong way round, the top of the sleeve will sit slightly twisted and might not be very comfortable. I usually place a pin in the back curve of each sleeve so I know this is the back.

Pin the long raw edges on each sleeve right sides together.

Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

5.3 Pick an armhole of the cardigan and a sleeve to stitch together. If you are doing a ladies size, make sure to pick the matching sleeve. To do this, I usually turn both the cardigan and sleeve right sides out, lay them next to each other and align my pins from the back of each sleeve so they are on the correct side of the garment. If you are doing a child sleeve, they are identical so any sleeve and armhole will be fine.

Turn the cardie wrong side out.

Turn your sleeve right side out.

Place a pin in the top center of the sleeve. Make sure your notch from the underarm that you marked in the preparation step is still there.

5.4 Place your sleeve inside the cardie.

Align the top sleeve pin with the shoulder seam and pin.

Align the sleeve side seam with the underarm notch and pin.

5.5 Continue to pin the rest of the way around the armhole.

Start by pinning the bottom of the armhole. Then as you get up around the top of the armhole, you will need to ease the sleeve into the armhole. This is where you hold the fabric taut (but not stretching it).

Try to align the fabric along the seamline (⅜ inch in from the edge). Keep the raw edges approximately aligned but don’t worry if there is some waviness along the raw edge. This is normal with easing. What you are trying to do is keep the fabric of the armhole and the sleeve flat where the stitching will be (⅜ inch from the edge), not at the raw edges.

Stitch using your sewing machine using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – If you are serging, do not serge here. Use your sewing machine instead to make sure you don’t get any folds or puckers along the seamline, then finish with serging in the next step.

5.6 OPTIONAL – Serge or overlock stitch the raw edges.

5.7 Turn the garment right side out. Press the shoulder seam away from the sleeves, towards the garment.

5.8 FIT CHECK – Try the cardie on and check the sleeve length. Make sure to allow for a ⅜ inch hem, then make any adjustments if you want to shorten it.

OPTIONAL – Finish the sleeve hem using a serger or overlock stitch.

5.9 Press the sleeve hem up by ⅜ inch.

Top stitch in place using a zigzag, lightning bolt, coverstitch or twin needle.

TIP – In the second photo you can see both the front and back of my hem. I serged the raw edge, and then used a twin needle. When I aligned my twin needle to top stitch, I did this from the right side of the fabric, but made sure to have one needle right on the outside edge of the serging. That way it holds the serging in place, stops the hem rolling towards the right side of the garment after wearing and washing it, and looks more like a professional coverstitch type stitch.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.9 for the other sleeve and armhole.

STEP 6 – Turned Under Hem Option

If you intend to make the band hem, skip to step 7. For the ruffle hem option, skip to step 8. Otherwise, follow below for the turned under hem option.

You will now finish the entire circle of the hem (from collar, all the way down, around and back up again) by turning under and stitching the hem in the same way you did with the sleeve hem in steps 5.8 and 5.9. You could also use a roll hem, or any other hemming finishing method you prefer.

6.1 OPTIONAL – Finish the cardie hem using a serger or overlock stitch.

Fold under ⅜ inch and press. Top stitch in place using a zigzag, lightning bolt, coverstitch or twin needle.

TIP – Here you can see both the front and back of my hem. I have serged the raw edge, and then used a twin needle. When I aligned my twin needle to top stitch, I did this from the right side of the fabric but made sure to have one needle right on the outside edge of the serging. That way it holds the serging in place, stops the hem rolling towards the right side of the garment after wearing and washing it, and looks more like a professional coverstitch type stitch.

All finished! Enjoy your Circle Cardie.

STEP 7 – Band Hem Option

If you are intending to make the ruffle hem, skip to step 8. Otherwise, follow below for the band hem option.

7.1 Depending on the size you are making and the width of your fabric, you may have several band pieces here, or you may just have one.

What you want to do is stitch however many you have, right sides together into one large circle.

If you just have one, fold it right sides together and stitch the short edge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

If you have more than one, place each of the short ends right sides together and stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance so it forms one large circle.

NOTE – As the raw edges will end up inside the band, there is no need to finish them. If you are using a regular sewing machine, just stitch and then leave them raw.

7.2 Press each of your seam allowances to one side.

7.3 Fold your band wrong sides together lengthwise. So, it will still be one large circle, but shorter.

Mark the quarter points on your band with pins.

If you have two or four band pieces, you can use the seams as reference points. If not, you will need to fold it in half and in half again to find the quarter points. Mark with pins then unfold so it forms a circle again.

7.4 Fold your cardigan in half vertically and mark the half way points with pins. The center back collar seam will be one. The other will be at the center back hemline.

Then unfold and fold again horizontally to mark the quarter points with pins.

There should now be four pins around your hemline, dividing it into quarters.

Unfold again so the cardie is flat and right side up.

7.5 Place your band onto the cardie. Match up the quarter point pins.

The folded edge of the band should be pointing into the cardie. The raw edges of the band should be aligned with the raw edge of the cardie.

You should be pinning through the two raw edges of the band and the main fabric.

TIP – If you’ve done sleeves rather than the armbands, fold these into the middle and keep them out of the way of your stitching.

7.6 Continue to pin the rest of the band to the cardie. The band will be slightly shorter than the cardie (by approximately 5%) so you will need to pin in sections and hold the band taut to pin it on.

Stitch or serge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

TIP – To ensure the band is eased evenly onto the cardie, pin by dividing each quarter in half. Then in half again, then again until you’ve got enough pins in place to be comfortable stitching.

7.7 Press the band outwards and the seam allowance to the inside of the garment. The band will curve slightly inwards.

7.8 OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance in place on the body using a zigzag, lightning bolt, coverstitch, or twin needle.

Doing this will stop the band from folding outwards while wearing it. While optional, I would recommend it for the best finish. Try to make sure you stitch your top stitching right on the edge of the seam allowance or serged edge to stop the band rolling over while wearing it.

All finished! Enjoy your Circle Cardie.

STEP 8 – Ruffle Hem Option

8.1 Depending on the size you are making and the width of your fabric, you may have several ruffle pieces here, or you may just have one.

What you want to do is stitch, however, many you have, right sides together into one large circle.

If you just have one, fold it right sides together and stitch the short edge using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

If you have more than one, place each of the short ends right sides together and stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance so it forms one large circle.

OPTIONAL – Serge or overlock stitch the raw edge for these side seams.

8.2 Press each of your seam allowances to one side.

Fold your ruffle in half and then in half again. Mark each quarter with a pin. Unfold.

NOTE – If you are confident in the length of your ruffle and cardigan, it is easiest to hem it here. If you want to do this, skip ahead to step 8.11 to hem, then come back and continue on from here to attach the ruffle. This way you can hem with the ruffle only, so that it’s straight and not bulky to manipulate while sewing. Alternatively follow the order normally so that you can fit check the length before hemming.

8.3 You are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the band.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end, and will have loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ⅝ inch from the edge.

When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, I like to start at one quarter point (as marked by pins in the previous step) and sew to the first quarter point. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the first photo). Start stitching again just after the quarter point, and stitch around to the next quarter point, and so on.

You should now have two rows of gathering stitches all the way around your ruffle, each of which run from quarter point to quarter point.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a

great way to use up all those leftover bobbin threads I find I have!

8.4 Turn your cardie right side out and place it right side up. Place your ruffle right side down onto it.

With the edge with the gathering stitches up against the cardigan’s raw edge, match one quarter point with the center back collar seam. I like to use quarter point that is on a seam line for this so that any other ruffle seam lines are symmetrical on the finished garment. but it’s not necessary.

8.5 Keeping the ruffle flat to ensure it’s not twisted, match the center bottom quarter point of the cardie with the opposite quarter point on the ruffle and pin. It should now be pinned at the top and bottom, with the ruffle even on both sides.

TIP – If you’ve done sleeves rather than the armbands, fold these into the middle and keep them out of the way of your gathering and stitching.

8.6 Match the quarter points at either side and pin.

8.7 You are now going to gather the ruffle to the cardigan. The best way I find to do this is in quarters.

Starting at a quarter point, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the ruffle. Gather the ruffle all the way across the quarter you are working on until the quarter in that section fits the waistband.

Spread the gathering out gently with your fingers so it looks evenly gathered and pin in place.

Then move on to the next quarter and so on until the whole ruffle has been gathered and now fits the cardie.

8.8 Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. This should be directly in between your two lines of gathering stitches.

8.9 Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of gathering thread so that they come all the way through the ruffle. Find the thread from the underside of the ruffle and pull this out too.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there.

8.10 Press the ruffle outwards and seam allowance inwards being careful to maintain the gathers.

8.11 OPTIONAL – Finish the cardie hem using a serger or overlock stitch.

Fold under ⅜ inch and press. Top stitch in place using a zigzag, lightning bolt, coverstitch or twin needle. Alternatively, you could use a roll hem or any other hemming finish you prefer.

Congratulations, your Circle Cardie is done. Enjoy! ♥

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