Dear GEMüTLICHKEIT Subscriber The Travel Letter for , & Switzerland

The “Must Have” Guidebook If you care where you will sleep and eat while visiting Germany, the single most important item to put in his is another of those Ger- ficial spelling today. your luggage is the current Michelin man cities that is overlooked The city’s strategic position ac- Red Guide for Germany, aka Deutsch- T by North American travelers. counts for its complicated history. land Hotels & Restaurants. This year’s Though it’s where we often begin or After the early Romans arrived and book is 1440 pages and lists about end our tours along the or Mo- settled, Koblenz was eventually con- 9,000 hotels and restaurants. sel rivers—most of by Sharon Hudgins quered by the Franks, sacked by the The down-to-earth usefulness us don’t stay long Normans, incorporated into the Holy to everyday travelers of this series enough to discover the 2,000-year-old Roman Empire, given to the archdio- (guides are also published for Swit- town’s hidden treasures. cese and electorate of , fortified by zerland, , Paris, Belgium/ The name Koblenz comes from its the Teutonic Knights, besieged by the Luxembourg, Italy, the Netherlands, location at the confluence of the Rhine French and the Swedes, occupied by Spain and Portugal, Great Britain and and Mosel rivers. Around 55 BC, Ju- the Russians, ruled by the Prussians, Ireland, and London) is obscured by lius Caesar and his Roman soldiers occupied again by the French after the relatively massive publicity given reached the point where the two great World War I, heavily bombed by the to a tiny number of very expensive rivers converge and where Celts had Allies during World War II, and finally restaurants to which the guides annu- already been living in small settle- rebuilt in the postwar era. Despite that ally award stars/rosettes. The result ments for the previous millennium. rather violent past, the town’s loca- is that many think the guides cover The Romans built bridges and estab- tion at the northern end of the scenic only upscale restaurants. I haven’t lished the larger stronghold Castellum Valley has also brought counted but this year’s Germany apud Confluentes, or “ at some positives. The region was listed book lists several thousand restau- the confluence.” That name eventually as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in rants; only nine of which have been morphed into Covelenz, Cobelenz, 2002. given the highly coveted three stars, Coblenz, and finally Koblenz, the of- 33 more get two stars and fewer than Continued on page 3… 200 have been awarded a single star. A three-course meal with wine at a typical one-star restaurant in Ger- : Hops Country many will cost from about $90 to $150 n a bus tour of dur- of hops fields in the Hallertau region per person. Figure twice that number ing his first year of study of Bavaria, not a renewable source of at one of the nine three stars. Oabroad, an American college telephone poles. student asked “What’s that?” The “Real” Michelin Germany is the world’s largest as he pointed to fields full of tall, dark producer of hops, accounting for Of far more value to the average brown wooden poles, lined up in neat more than two-thirds of the hops traveler is Michelin’s singling out of rows, with lush green vines growing grown in Europe and one-third of all less pretentious, less expensive, high- on wires attached to them. the hops grown on the globe. Three- value restaurants and hotels—the Bib “That’s a telephone-pole field, you fourths of Germany’s crop is exported Gourmand and Bib Hotel designa- idiot,” said his companion, an older- to other countries, mainly the United tions that Michelin says “guarantee and-wiser American States, Japan, and Russia. excellence but at moderate prices.” by Sharon Hudgins student who had Although hops are grown in sev- Michelin uses several pages in lived in Germany for the past year. eral parts of Germany, the Hallertau the front of the book to list and spot “Haven’t you ever seen one before?” region (or Holledau, as it’s known on a map the more than 400 German “Gee, we don’t have anything like locally) is at the top of the list. It’s the restaurants it calls Bib Gourmand that in the U. S.” replied his friend. largest single hops-producing area on (Bibendum is the Michelin man’s “Germany is really an interesting Continued on page 9… name), places that serve excellent place!” food for €35 or less (three courses). Exchange rates as of 7/12/12 You may be laughing, but it’s a The map is particularly handy be- 1 euro = $1.22 true story. What the young man saw Swiss franc = $1.02 Continued on page 2… were the seemingly endless hectares 1 gal. diesel, Germany=$6.49 www.gemut.com July 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER The Color Red Cities & Towns Continued from page 1 Red in Michelin denotes something In addition to hotels and restau- special. It is the symbol color assigned rants, the Germany Red Guide compiles cause it allows the user to see at a to establishments Michelin thinks stand much information about each of the glance which of these restaurants are above the rest. Black is for all others. approximately 2,000 German cities nearby. (Detailed info for all restau- Though red is reserved for the special is covers. Where else, in one volume, rants and hotels, of course, is shown in few, there are many very good hotels does one find the address, phone num- the main listings under the alphabet- and restaurants with plain black sym- ber, and Internet address of hundreds ized towns and cities.) Your editors bols. A “black” hotel, however, could be of local tourist offices? Other informa- have dined in perhaps 20 of Bib Gour- awarded a red rocking chair as a “very tion about the listed towns includes man restaurants and have yet to be quiet hotel” or a red marking for an population, elevation, major tourist disappointed. “exceptional view.” A “black” restau- attractions with Michelin’s star rating Value Hotels rant might get a red grape symbol for for each, golf course contact info, and Perhaps even more useful than Bib an extraordinary wine list. distances to nearby cities. Gourmand is the Bib Hotel designa- To denote levels of luxury and ser- Another feature matched by no tion. Highlighting some 200 quality vice in the hotels it lists, Michelin uses other guidebook is the town maps hotels that offer double rooms for €90 a roof peak icon. A single roof peak provided for dozens of German cities. or less, it is Michelin’s way of identify- (“quite comfortable”) is given to sim- Their principal purpose is to display ing what it considers the best inexpen- ple hotels while five roof peaks indi- the location of hotels and restaurants, sive lodgings in the country. cates “luxury in the traditional style.” as well as the principal tourist attrac- The roof peak symbol can be in red or tions in each town. Even in this era of Key Feature: Maps black. A single red peak is usually a satellite navigation, the maps are espe- These Bib hotels are listed at the small but excellent family-run hotel. cially useful to the auto traveler trying front of the book and also dotted on There are 29 such hotels in Germany. to drive to a specific hotel. We have given positive reviews to two the 69 end-of-the-book map pages A couple of times a year we hear that enable the user to quickly get a of them, the Dorer in the Black Forest, Continued on page 12… geographical perspective of all es- and Historsche Schlossmühle, a few Using Gemütlichkeit tablishments that Michelin deems miles east of Bernkastel-Kues on the • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Dis- special. The maps display relatively Mosel, in the tiny village of Horbruch. counts are often available for longer stays. inexpensive lodgings and restaurants, One could argue that the 10 best • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise noted. especially quiet hotels, as well as the hotels in all of Germany are the 10 that • Local European telephone area codes best hotels and restaurants. They are get five red roof peaks from Michelin: carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. a wonderful tool and a visual distil- Brenner’s Park in Baden-Baden; To phone establishments from outside the country, such as from the USA, do not dial lation of the on-premises evaluations Grand Hotel Schloss Bensberg in the first “0”. of savvy Michelin travel profession- Bergish-Gladbach; the Adlon, Regent Back Issues Website als. (The dirty little secret of typical and Ritz Carlton in Berlin; the Fair- Many back issues are available free to subscribers guidebooks is that all to often they are mont Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg, at www.gemut.com. To access the issues, enter the written by a lone person working on a Munich’s Mandarin Oriental; and the password published in this space each month. Go to budget so tight that many of the hotels Sonnenalp in the west Bavarian resort http://www.gemut.com/csub.html covered are never visited...except via of Sonthofen/Ofterschwang. Password: conf the Internet.)

Vol. 26, No. 6 Hotel Restaurant Rating Key July 2012 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers:Publishers: RobertRobert H. H. & & Elizabeth Elizabeth S. S. BestorBestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Editor: RobertLaura H. Bestor Riedel Contributors:Writers: Doug Linton, C. Fischer,Tom Bross, R. Holliday, Margie Jim Gibson,Johnson Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Karsten Horn,Paul S haronT. Merschdorf Hudgins Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionSubscriber Travel Dept: Services: andy Bestor,Kurt Laura Steffans Riedel SubscriberGemut.com Webmaster:Travel Services: Andy Bestor,Charles Laura Brockman Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 UpCountry Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $69 per year Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 for 10 issues, $49 via e-mail. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

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KOBLENZ Koblenz Basics buildings as the Münzplatz, with the Haus Metternich where the Prussian Continued from page 1 Population: 109,000 statesman was born in 1773; the Jesuit- Much of the city’s turbulent history Elevation: 212 feet (64.7 meters) enplatz with the Rathaus (Town Hall); is visually depicted on the Koblenzer Visitor information: Tourist Infor- and Am Plan, a large square formerly Historiensäule, the Koblenz History mation, Koblenz, Jesuitenplatz 2, used as a marketplace and site of joust- Column, a tall monument-fountain 56068 Koblenz, tel. +49-(0)261-130- ing competitions, but is now ringed by erected in 2000. Located in a pretty 920, fax +49-(0)261-130-9211, info- cafes and shops. A bit farther on, in the park at the Josef-Görresplatz, not far [email protected], “new” part of the central city, the huge from the Rhine, this landmark makes a www.touristik-koblenz.de; and white Residenzschloss (Elector’s Pal- good starting point for a walking tour Bahnhofplatz 17, 56068 Koblenz, tel. ace), built in the late 1700s, overlooks of the city. But first stop by Koblenz- +49-(0)261-31304, fax +49-(0)261-303- its own formal gardens and pleasant Touristik, the local tourist office at the 8849, info-hbf@koblenz-touristik. promenades. (The palace itself is not nearby Town Hall (Jesuitenplatz 2) to de, www.touristik-koblenz.de. open to the public.) pick up a handy free map that outlines All of this sightseeing will definite- three self-guided walking tours in the Driving distances: ly work up an appetite. Walk to Wein- central part of the city and directly dorf, an old quarter on the Rhine side across the Rhine. (Another official Frankfurt 82 km/51 mi Cologne 79 km/49 mi of the Altstadt, near the Pfaffendorfer tourist office is located at the main Bridge, to linger over green-stemmed train station, Bahnhofplatz 17.) Heidelberg 131 km/81 mi Munich 380 km/236 mi glasses of Rhine and Mosel wines in a Koblenz is a small city of 109,000 picturesque half-timbered Weinstuben. people and can easily be visited on At Deniz Kebap Pizza Haus on Rhein- foot. It’s pleasant just to wander Nearest airports: strasse 32, near the Görresplatz, chow through the narrow streets and al- Cologne/ 66 km/41 mi down on excellent Turkish döner kebap leyways, to stroll along the banks of Frankfurt 77 km/48 mi (one of Germany’s favorite fast foods) the two rivers, and, when your feet Dusseldorf 120 km/75 mi served inside a yeasty, thin flatbread finally give out, to sip wine at a cozy freshly made while you wait. And sidewalk cafe in one of the squares in Rail connections: Frequent train indulge in some of Koblenz’s finest the old quarter. There are also several connections from Bonn, Cologne, cakes and confections at Café-Kon- sights not to be missed. Dusseldorf, Trier, Mainz, Frankfurt, ditorei Baumann, Obere Löhrstrasse Mannheim, and Stuttgart. A few 93, an elegant Old World coffee-and- Koblenz Explorations direct trains per day from Luxem- pastry shop near the massive neo- Every visitor heads to the Deutsch- bourg. Romanesque Herz-Jesu church in the es Eck, the German Corner, the point central part of the city. where the Rhine and Mosel meet. expect to find them: the Romanesque St. Kastor basilica; the Liebfrauen- Finish the tour of Koblenz with This dramatic geographic feature is a visit to Festung Ehrenbreitstein, also marked by a massive monument kirche (Church of Our Lady) whose architectural styles range from Ro- the huge fortress high on a hill, with crowned by a statue of Kaiser Wilhelm the best views over the city and the I astride his horse. Erected in 1897 as manesque through Gothic to Baroque; and the Florinskirche (St. Florin where the two great a symbol of German nationalism, the rivers converge. Built as a small castle statue was destroyed by U. S. artillery Church), another handsome ecclesi- astical edifice that dates to the 12th around the year 1000, the fortress was in 1945, near the end of World War expanded into a larger structure over II, but a copy was reinstated there in century. The 13th-century Alte Burg (Old Castle) contains the city archives, several centuries, then destroyed by 1993. Today, the old Kaiser looks out the French and rebuilt by the Prussians over a peaceful panorama of kids on and the Deutschherrenhaus, built by the Teutonic Knights in that same in the early 19th century. Today one skateboards, mothers pushing baby can still easily imagine those Prus- carriages, and tourists eating picnics century, is now the site of the Ludwig Museum, an impressive collection of sian troops conducting their marching on the triangular tip of land between drills on the spacious parade ground “Father Rhine” and “Mother Mosel.” modern German and French art. The Middle Rhine Museum displays art surrounded on several sides by the This is also a favorite spot for watch- fortress’s sturdy buildings, some of ing the fantastic fireworks display of from ancient times to the 20th century, in the Kauf-und Danzhaus, part of an which now house the Koblenz Re- the Rhein in Flammen (Rhine Aflame) gional Museum. festival on the second weekend in ensemble of historic houses in the August. Altstadt (Old Town), on the bank of the To get to Ehrenbreitstein from the Mosel River. old town, take a short ferry ride across Koblenz’s largest concentration of Several streets and squares in the the Rhine to the right (east) bank of historic buildings is in the oldest part the river, then board the chair lift. Or, of the city, exactly where one would Altstadt are pedestrian zones, where the wanderer sees such beautiful walk up the steep, winding Felsenweg

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to the top. Buses also run from the The local clientele is as friendly as In the daytime it’s fun to ride a main city. A new aerial cable car (the the service and there have been good ferry across the Rhine to the Ehrenbre- largest in Germany), between the Old reports on the venison goulash, the itstein side of the city, then take a chair Town and the peak of Ehrenbreitstein, boiled beef with horseradish and, of lift to the fortress—but you’ll need a was recently built for the Bundesgar- course, the sausages. Most entrées are taxi to and from the restaurant if you tenschau, the big biannual garden in the €10-15 range. Some 40 German plan to eat there after 5pm.Open daily, show that will be held in Koblenz next wines are available by the glass. 11am– 11:30pm. year. Check with the tourist office for Contact: Weinhaus Hubertus, Florins- Contact: Ferrari auf der all the transportation schedules, since markt 6, 56068 Koblenz, tel. +49/261/3 Festung,Festung/Oberer Schlossplatz, some conveyances run only at certain 11 77, fax 100 4919, www.weinhaus- 56007 Koblenz-Ehrenbreitstein, tel. times of the year. In the evening, it’s hubertus.de/ +49/261-973-0916, fax 974-331-50, best to take a taxi. Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 14/20 [email protected], www.ferrari- At the top is Ferrari Restaurant koblenz.de (see review this page) featuring tradi- Winninger Weinstuben Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 14/20 tional German and Italian specialties Koblenz is wine country and per- at reasonable prices. But the main at- haps the best option for wine lovers Schiller’s traction of Ehrenbreitstein is the spec- is the restaurant in this stone building In the Hotel Stein, this is the Ko- tacular view over the Rhine, the Mosel, not far from the Deutsches Eck (where blenz stop for upscale vittles served and the Deutsches Eck, nearly 400 feet the Mosel joins the Rhine). Here one on white linen and plenty of crystal. below—an unforgettable sight. can taste some of Germany’s highest The main dining room is not for casual quality wine (Qualitätswein mit Prädi- dressers, but the wintergarden and the Koblenz Restaurants kat) categories: Kabinett, Spätlese, Aus- terrace in summer are less imposing. lese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese Weinhaus Hubertus The limited menu testifies to the and Eiswein—the extraordinary dessert chef’s commitment to fresh ingredi- This 1689 wine restaurant was wine made from grapes harvested ents, and the prices, while above aver- damaged only slightly during WWII after a freeze. Even rare Mosel reds are age, fall well short of Michelin-star lev- and the half-timber building’s antique available from the restaurant’s partner els. Bouillabaisse with garlic baguette furniture, parquet floors and medieval vineyard, Weingut Rüdiger-Kröber. comes in two sizes and prices, €32.5 hunting scenes attest to its venerable and €19.5. A veal chop with chantrelles authenticity. The simple interior décor, with plain wooden tables, fits the rather and summer vegetables fetches €29.5. A three-course menu is €39, add €10 Key Websites for the Traveler plain food—sausages, cheese platters, • www.gemut.com Gateway site for pork shank, and house-made potato for a fourth course and another €10 for travelers to Germanic Europe, including car salad. Two persons can dine for less three fresh oysters. rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, and past issues (free access to back issues for than €20. In fine weather outdoor ta- Contact: Hotel Stein-Schillers Restau- subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). bles offer views of the Ehrenbreitstein rant, Mayener Strasse 126 D-56070 • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin Fortress. Open for dinner only. Koblenz, tel: +49/0261/96 35 30, www. database of hotels and restaurants, plus great schillers-restaurant.de interactive trip planning tools Contact: Winninger Weinstuben, • www.travelessentials.com Guide- Rheinzollstrasse 2, D-56068 Koblenz, Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 12/20 books, maps, travel accessories, luggage, all tel. +49/261/38707, www.winninger- at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use dis- Koblenz Hotels count code gemut2010. weinstuben.de/ • maps.google.com Amazing map re- Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 14/20 Hotel Haus Morjan source. Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great The principal appeal of this detail city & country. Satellite & terrain views. Ferrari auf der Festung modern 33-room hotel on the Rhine • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/ High above the Deutches Eck is this promenade is its views of river traffic en German rail website, with train schedules family-owned restaurant in the court- throughout Europe, as well as Germany. and the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. Riv- yard of the historic Ehrenbreitstein For- • www.sbb.ch/en/ Swiss and Euro- erboats dock less than 100 feet away tress. Start with a beverage under the pean rail schedules and a steady stream of walkers stroll • www.ski-europe.com Top Web re- big chestnut tree on the pleasant ter- the promenade. Old world charm is source for skiers with much info on Alpine resorts race outside, then tuck into one of the just steps away in the Atstadt’s cafés, • www.myswitzerland.com Website heaping, well-prepared dishes from a of Switzerland’s national tourist authority restaurants and Weinstuben. menu featuring tried-and-true German • www.germany-tourism.de Ger- Guestrooms are spacious, airy, and many’s national tourist authority and Italian specialties. Salads, includ- • www.austria.info/us Austria’s ing dinner-size plates garnished with clean. Request a third-floor room with national tourist authority grilled meats, range from €5.20-14.70. balcony (the fourth floor has better • www.historicgermany.com Web- Baked potatoes with a variety of fill- views but no balconies). site for an alliance of historic German cities ings are €5.20-9.60, and steaks cooked Contact: Hotel Haus Morjan, Konrad- • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on elec- tronics for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. to order cost €11.30-16.50. Adenauer-Ufer, D-56068 Koblenz, tel.

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36 block RFID signals and keep your personal info $5. safe. (Reg. $5.95) $5.35 - $26.99 (Reg. $5.95 - $29.99) Get the Latest Rail Prices at Gemut.com Austria-Czech Pass Germany-France Pass buying rail passes in 2012 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl Because of currency fluctuation, pass 4 days in 2 months $264 $225 $173 4 days in 2 months $429 $388 $388 $351 $301 Avg Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 36 $ 30 $ 23 5 days in 2 months $475 $428 $428 $386 $332 prices change frequently. Prices listed 6 days in 2 months $520 $469 $469 $416 $367 CZECH-GERMANY Pass 1 Adult Saver* Youth 8 days in 2 months $609 $550 $550 $478 $429 here are approximations. At www. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 10 days in 2 months $699 $631 $631 $550 $496 5 days in 2 months $415 $342 $340 $293 $293 gemut.raileuorpe.com you can se- 6 days in 2 months $463 $380 $378 $324 $324 Germany-Switzerland Pass curely buy the listed passes, as well as 8 days in 2 months $537 $447 $445 $388 $388 1 Adult Saver* Youth 10 days in 2 months $618 $517 $515 $450 $450 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl many others, plus book individual tick- 5 days in 2 months $453 $386 $318 EUROPEAN EAST PASS 6 days in 2 months $499 $424 $351 ets. Or, for current prices, and to place Austria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, Slovakia 8 days in 2 months $588 $504 $415 5 days in 1 month $315 (1Cl) $217 (2Cl) 10 days in 2 months $680 $582 $478 a rail pass order, call 800-521-6722x3. Avg. 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France-Switzerland Pass 2 or more Adults* 1 Adult 5 days in 2 months $475 $404 $310 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 6 days in 2 months $524 $447 $342 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl Class Class Class Class 8 days in 2 months $620 $527 $404 4 days in 2 months $426 $363 $301 3 days in 1 month $399 $251 $470 $294 10 days in 2 months $718 $611 $468 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 46 $40 $33 4 days in 1 month $486 $303 $570 $356 GERMAN RAILPASS 5 days in 1 month $561 $351 $659 $412 4 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 6 days in 1 month $637 $398 $751 $469 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1 Adult Youth Twin Pass* 5 days in 2 months $531 $452 $347 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. SWISS CARD 6 days in 2 months $580 $494 $378 3 days in 1 month $344 $263 $210 $265 $194 1 month - 1 round trip $319 (1-Cl) $216 (2-Cl) 8 days in 2 months $651 $575 $440 Avg. Extra Rail Day (7) $ 42 $28 $15 $29 $21 plus 50% discount on rail tickets 10 days in 2 months $772 $657 $503 AUSTRIA-Germany Pass SWISS TRANSFER TICKET 5 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 month - 1 round trip $241 (1-Cl) $151 (2-Cl) 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl (*Prices per person, based on two or more traveling together at all 5 days in 2 months $585 $498 $381 5 days in 2 months $424 $366 $366 $312 $313 6 days in 2 months $634 $539 $414 times. **Junior & Youth fares apply only to passengers under 26. 6 days in 2 months $467 $399 $399 $343 $343 Where senior fares are offered, 60 is qualifying age. Children 4-11 pay 8 days in 2 months $731 $622 $476 8 days in 2 months $556 $475 $475 $409 $410 10 days in 2 months $824 $701 $537 10 days in 2 months $648 $551 $551 $475 $474 half the adult fare including Saverpass fares except Switzerland where 15 days in 2 months $1045 $889 $681 kids under 16 travel free with a parent.) Germany-Benelux Pass AUSTRIAN RAILPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT PRICES: The US dollar prices on this page are 1st Cl 2nd Cl Child 1st Child 2nd 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl based on the euro and are subject to change with currency fluctuation. Pass 3 days in 1 month $236 $166 $120 $85 5 days in 1 month $445 $336 $336 $272 $272 orders will be processed in dollars, but amounts charged may vary from Avg Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $27 $19 $14 $9 Avg. Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $46 $35 $36 $27 $27 prices shown on this page. Product # Days 1st/2nd Class Circle one Passenger Name (First and Last as on Passport) Country of Residence Price

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Special Considerations (Specify countries for countries Method of Payment (Visa MC AmEx Diners) chosen for Selectpass, additional rail days, etc.) Card #:______Exp. Date______Est. total amount: $______Name ______TERMS & CONDITIONS: Prices on this page sub- Order online at ject to change. Canceled orders refunded 85% of Street______total charge. Handling fee for cancels is $25. City______State____ Zip______gemut.raileuorpe.com Fax form to 541-488-8468 or mail to: 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520 Daytime Phone______U.S. Depart. Date______or phone 800-521-6722 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Cruising through Europe GemütlichkeitGemütlichkeit Special Special Offer Offer SubscriberSubscriber DiscountsDiscounts On 2012  EuropeanEuropean River Holiday Cruises River Cruises ChooseChoose from dozens ofof itinerariesitineraries and and sailings sailings. Here Here are are just just a few:a few: CENCHANTINGlassic Christmas DANUBE Markets 8 daysdays, NürnbergBudapest to to Frankfurt. Passau From From $2199* DDANUBEanube DISCOVERYHoliday Markets 8 daysdays, BudapestVienna to to Nürnberg Passau. From From $2199*   EurRHINEop DISCOVERYean Holiday Markets 8 daysdays, ViennaNürnberg to Nürnberg. to Basel FromFrom $2199*   Early booking GrCASTLESand cALONGhrist THEmas RHINE & New Year’s cruidiscountsse as much 13 days days, Basel Nürnberg to Amsterdam to Budapest. From From $3999 as $900 per PaLEGENDARYrisian W RHINEinter & H MOSELoliday couple 8 days, days Paris Amsterdam to Paris. Fromto Basel $1999 From  EUROPEAN JEWELS on Rhine Holiday Markets Additional discounts 8 days, days Paris Buapest to Paris. to Amsterdam From $2249* From   Gemut Readers EUROPEAN SERERANDE for Big Savings for Early Booking These 2013 Cruises select 2012 cruises  days Vienna to Amsterdam From  LEASTERNegenda EUROPEry Rhin EXPLORERe & Mosel 13 daysdays, ViennaAmsterdam to Bucharest to Basel. From From $4199**   EurPARISo p&ea EUROPEANn Seren RIVERade ROMANCE 13 days days, Paris Vienna to toNürnberg Amsterdam. From From   $4399** Some 2 for 1 deals on GrPARISan &d THEDANUB HEARTE & OF PR EUROPEAGUE bookings prior to 17 daysdays, ParisPrague to to Vienna Belgrade. From From  $5899** GRAND EUROPEAN DISCOVERY August 31, 2009 Gran ddays Eur Baselop toea Viennan Riv Fromer Voyage 27 days, Amsterdam to Istanbul. From $9299*** GRAND EUROPEAN SERERANDE Gra nd days Eur Amsterdamopean toH IBucharestGHLIGH FromTS   22 days, Belgrade to Basel. From $7899*** GRAND EUROPEAN EXPLORER (* $300 days per couple Basel discount to Bucharest in select categories From if paid in full at the time of booking- Expires June 30) (** $2000 per couple in select categories if paid in full at the time of booking - Expires June 30) (*** $2400 per couple in select categories if paid in full at the time of booking - Expires June 30) When you sail with Uniworld When you sail with Uniworld • Shore excursions included • Email available  stay in touch • Excursions included • Email available - stay in touch • Nonsmoking ships • Small ship ambiance ( to  guests) • Non-smoking ships • Small ship ambiance (100 to 138 guests) • English language only • Hotelstyle beds • English language only • Hotel-style beds • Unpack only once • Terry cloth robes • Unpack only once • Terrycloth robes • Most deluxe ships in Europe • Satellite TV in cabins • Most deluxe ships in Europe • Satellite TV in cabins • Europe’s youngest fleet • Fitness Center • Europe’s youngest fleet • Fitness Center

ForFor free free video catalog and catalogor to book or to space book phonespace phoneGemütlichkeit Gemütlichkeit ® 800-521-6722   x 2press option  Gemütlichkeit 8 July 2012 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com +49/361/304290, fax 3042956, info@ parking garage at a reduced rate. Hotel Contel hotel-hausmorjan.de, www.hotel- Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 15/20 ”Eclectic” and “whimsical” de- morjan.de City-Hotel Kurfürst Balduin scribe this unusual hotel located a Daily Rates: Singles €65-75, doubles 20-minute walk west along the Mosel If budget is a priority, the prices are from €90-105. from the Altstadt. Murals cover the great at the City-Hotel Kurfürst Baldu- Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 16/20 outside walls of the main building in in. The rooms are clean, quiet, well- Hundertwasser style: a colorful scene Hotel Stein outfitted and modern, if not spacious, of earth, heaven, sky, sun and stars and the location is great: immediately On the north shore of the Mosel, with attached metal figures “climbing” across the street from the pedestrian a 10-minute walk from the train sta- toward the roof. Guests use a wooden zone, one block from the Mosel and tion, the family-run Stein’s 30 modern bridge to cross duck ponds where on a direct bus line to the train station. guestrooms feature flat-screen TVs, sculptures poke through reeds. Internet access, and soundproofed But the ambiance is bare-basics, a non- windows. Unfortunately, there is no descript conference hotel. Inside, it’s a labyrinth of surprises: In the bar, the seats are saddles and lift to upper floors (though help with Contact: City-Hotel Kurfürst Balduin, chandeliers are traffic lights. Clas- luggage is offered), the neighborhood Hohenfelderstrasse 12, D-56068 Ko- is a little sketchy and the walk into sical statues stand under hanging blenz, marionettes, knights’ armor sits next town not so convenient. There is, how- tel. +49/261/13 32-0, fax 13 32-100, ever, some free parking for guests. to carousel horses. Artwork and an- [email protected], tiques from the past two centuries fill Though double room rack rates www.cityhotel-koblenz.de every possible nook. The initial over- start at €105, the hotel’s website quot- Daily Rates: Singles €44, doubles €62. whelming effect transforms quickly ed €80 for a stay in mid-July. Breakfast €8. to a sense of fun that someone shared Contact: Mayener Strasse 126 D-56070 Rating: Quality 10/20, Value 14/20 their off-beat tastes to create this un- Koblenz, tel: +49/0261/96 35 30, www. usual space. aran Hotel Koblenz schillers-restaurant.de In 2004 the hotel on this property, As expected, the 185 guestrooms Daily Rates: Singles €80-105, doubles are individually designed, and many €105-115 then called the Lorenz, was refur- bished in a spare, ultra-modern style. have kitchenettes. Waterbeds are avail- Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 14/20 Two years ago, following a change in able upon request. Hotel Trierer Hof management, a new name, and anoth- Contact: Hotel Contel, PastorKlein- This centrally located three-star er make-over, the hotel returned to its Strasse 19, 56073 Koblenz, tel. property, in a building constructed in more traditional roots. The hardwood +49/261/40650, fax 4065188, 1786, is across the street from the mas- floors and many modern fixtures re- [email protected], sive Electoral Palace and just a brief main but dark draperies, and heavier www.contel-koblenz-de walk from the Rhine-Mosel at the fa- furnishings have softened the severe, Daily Rates: Singles €75, doubles €85. mous Deutsches Eck. minimalist look. Breakfast €11. Family owned and operated, the The sterility of the individually Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 15/20 Trierer Hof offers 36 clean, simple, designed guestrooms has been toned down but the contemporary feel re- HALLERTAU rooms with standard amenities (tele- Continued from page 1 phone, television, radio, Internet). mains. Street-side rooms can be noisy if the There’s is still no elevator, and the planet, covering more than 17,000 windows are open; a negative con- steps wind up a tower-like staircase to hectares (42,000 acres) of hops fields in ceded by hotel management with their three levels of rooms. Number 10 on eastern Bavaria. A pastoral region of inclusion of earplugs in the bathroom’s the top floor is huge with three broad rolling hills planted with hops, barley, toiletries basket. windows with a view on one side to and wheat—essential ingredients of Both public and guest rooms the colorful Jesuitenplatz, and on the Germany’s great beers—the Hallertau Ingolstadt display vibrant modern art, and a other to the Jesuitengasse, a narrow is bounded by the cities of Kehlheim plentiful breakfast buffet is served in a alley that opens to the Rathaus. A café- on the west, (near Regens- Landshut pleasant dining room. restaurant-bar is on the ground floor. burg) in the north, on the east, and to the south. Contact: Hotel Trierer Hof, Clem- Contact: aran Hotel Koblenz, Je- ensstrasse 1, 56068 Koblenz, tel. suitenplatz 1-3, 56068 Koblenz, tel. The 50-kilometer (30-mile) Deutsche Hopfenstrasse +49/261-100-60, fax 100-61-00, info@ +49/261/201640, fax 201 6488, info@ (German triererhof.de, www.triererhof.de aranhotel-koblenz.de, www.aran- Hops Route), runs along highway 301 through the middle of this agricultural Daily Rates: Singles €65-86, doubles koblenz.de area, between Freising and Abensberg. €75-89, three- and four-bed rooms, Daily Rates: Singles €70-90, doubles It’s about an hour’s drive. Also in the €117-130. Parking is in a nearby public €85-105 Hallertau, is the Deutsches Hopfen- Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 16/20 Gemütlichkeit 9 July 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com museum (German Hops Museum) in in the fields around Wolnzach, you can asparagus season, through autumn for the little market town of Wolnzach, get up close to the vines planted right wild game from the nearby forests and just off the Autobahn between Munich outside the entrance to the museum. fields. Restaurants offer special menus and Regensburg. In addition to the interesting ex- featuring regional food products— lamb, asparagus, mushrooms, pota- Like grapevines, the rootstocks of hibits on two floors of the museum, toes, large white radishes, sheep’s-milk hops can live up to 50 years. Every there’s a shop with the largest selection cheese—paired with the local beers. year after the harvest, the vines are of hops-related products you’ll ever see under one roof. I had no idea that Surely the most unusual food pruned back. In spring, the new hops shoots poke out from the ground so many items were made out of hops product from the Hallertau is Hop- around the vines’ roots—and the plants, or with hops designs painted, fensprossen (hops sprouts), also known tendrils from some of the shoots are printed, or embroidered on them: por- as Hopfenspargel (hops asparagus) be- trained around the wires attached celain and pottery cups, bowls, plates, cause they resemble small asparagus to those tall wooden (or sometimes and plaques; jewelry and belt buckles; stalks. When the pale young shoots concrete) poles standing in the fields. hand towels, T-shirts, and baseball of the hops plants peek up from the The plants can grow up to 30 centime- caps; Easter eggs, candles, wreaths, brown earth in March and April, some ters (nearly 12 inches) in a single day, and gift-wrapping paper; bath salts, of them are plucked for use in cook- climbing as high as 7 or 8 meters (23 to body oils, and soaps; linen sachets and ing. Hops shoots are used in soups; as 26 feet) along the wires to the tops of pillows stuffed with dried hops; a va- a salad garnish or a salad themselves, the poles. It takes only 70 days for the riety of liquors made from hops, and dressed with vinegar and oil, and plants to fully develop, before being the glasses to drink them from; hops sprinkled with chopped bell peppers, harvested in August and September. tea, and marzipan candies shaped like hard-boiled eggs, and fresh herbs; and hops cones. as a vegetable main dish smothered in Until the introduction of mecha- cream sauce seasoned with garlic and nized harvesting in Germany in the But there’s more to do in the Hal- nutmeg, topped with minced fresh mid-1950s, hops were picked off the lertau region than spending money parsley, basil, and sage. vines entirely by hand. Even with the collecting hops paraphernalia. Hike- improvement of harvesting machines and-bike trails and bridle paths criss- Hops also make an appearance as during the past half century, hand-pick- cross the region. At Wolnzach visitors ingredients in breads, sausages, mus- ing is still practiced in many parts of can follow the Hallertau Lehrpfad, a tards, and jams; in distilled liquors and Europe. Today, many of the harvesters four-kilometer walking path through sweet liqueurs; and the hops leaves employed in the Hallertau are seasonal an open-air educational exhibit about are used as a wrapping for a salt-and- laborers from Hungary and Poland, the agriculture and ecology of the caraway-flavored cheese known as who come to Germany to earn extra region. Brewery tours, farm-stay holi- Hopfkäse. Since ancient times, hops money working in the hops fields. days, and winter cross-country skiing have been valued for their medicinal are also popular activities. properties, too. Even today they are Only the cone-like female part of used in making cosmetics and some the plant is harvested for use in beer Many of the towns and villages kinds of plant-based medicines. brewing. Hops give beer its slightly host colorful events at various sea- bitter taste, but they’re also added for sons of the year, from spring Carnival Once you’ve eaten and drunk your their natural preservative properties. before Lent to Christmas markets in way around the Hallertau, you might They even help retain the head of foam December. August and September are want to burn off all those calories on when the beer is poured into a glass. especially good times to visit the Hal- the local hike-and-bike trails. Then lertau to see the hops being harvested, when your legs are aching and your Known as “the green gold of Ba- drink freshly brewed beers at beer fes- feet refuse to budge, relax at a spa varia,” hops have been a major agri- tivals, and watch the crowning of the in a wooden tub full of warm water cultural product in the Hallertau for Hallertau Hops Queen in Wolnzach. scented with honey and hops oil, with several centuries. So it’s fitting that this Check with local and regional tourist hops cones floating on the surface like particular plant has an entire museum offices (listed at the end of this article) little green bubbles. Just don’t drink devoted to its history, cultivation, for the specific dates of events held in the bathwater. harvesting, processing, marketing, Geisenfeld, Rohrbach, , uses, and culture throughout the ages. Wolnzach, Mainburg, Abensburg, Hops Region Hotelss But don’t envision some musty old and , as well as in repository with dusty displays of dried larger cities bordering this region. Hotel Hallertal plants under glass. The sleek modern Though it lacks traditional country Both alcohol and hops are known building of the Deutsches Hopfen- charm, this 85-room business-oriented to stimulate the appetite. Maybe that’s museum in Wolnzach (www.hopfen- hotel in the center of the hops industry why Hallertau breweries, hops pro- museum.de) is filled with fascinating is moderately-priced and comfort- ducers, and restaurants team up to exhibits designed to attract both chil- able. It offers free internet access in all offer special “culinary weeks,” from dren and adults. And if you haven’t rooms, free underground parking, a springtime for the “hops sprouts” and already seen plenty of hops growing restaurant and bar, even fitness and

Gemütlichkeit 10 July 2012 www.gemut.com spa facilities. There are guestrooms for • Association of German Hops because of all the eating places near- the disabled and a small shop selling Growers, www.deutscher-hopfen.de by). Peter also rents other apartments hops country products. • Tourism Association Hallertau, in other districts. Email him directly at Contact: Hotel Hallertal, Ziegelstrasse www.tourismusverband-hallertau.de [email protected] or call 011-49- 4, D-85283 Wolnzach, tel. + 49/08 442 1577-215-7673. • Tourism Kelheim, www.brau- 9681-0, fax 442 968, info@hotel-haller- ereikarte.de Having visited Berlin many times tau.de, www.hotel-hallertau.de beginning in 1966, the changes are Daily Rates: Singles €74-80, doubles • City of Kelheim, www.kehlheim.de remarkable. These days, we prefer to €80-125 • City of Wolnzach, www.wolnzach.de spend most of our time in the eastern Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 12/20 districts, because that seems to be the area where the most is ‘happening’. Hotel Hopfengold Readers’ Forum We highly recommend Peter as an Good value and traditional charm Germany Recommendations primary contact for Berlin ‘non-hotel’ are a winning formula in the German After spending 12 days at the accommodations. countryside and this bed and break- Christmas markets in December 2011 John Koeller fast offers both. The 20 spotless guest- (Munich, Nürnberg, Regensburg, via email rooms are all equipped with free Inter- Bamberg, and a few other places), we Just Checking In net, most feature a balcony and larger returned to Germany in May 2012 to Less than 24 hours before a 30 doubles have a small sofa. There is visit am Rhein (for Rhein in Flam- May Rome-Paris flight we went to an free parking and even playground men), Berlin, and Görlitz. I wanted to Internet cafe to print boarding passes. swings for kids. The Hopfengold is make you and your readers aware of We signed on to the Air France web- 300 meters off highway 93, between some great accommodations in ex- site as instructed by an airline rep at Munich and Regensburg. ceptionally convenient locations and the airport a week earlier. Though the which we recommend. Contact: Hotel Hopfengold, Preysing- site supposedly allows the printing of str. 53, D-85283 Wolnzach, tel: +49/08 Linz am Rhein: Hotel-Restaurant boarding passes, even the cafe man- 8442-95 95 55, fax 56, info@hotel-hop- Zur Mühle (three-star), Mühlengasse ager was unable to do so and told us fengold.de, www.hotel-hopfengold.de 1753545 Linz, www.hotel-linz-rhein. such problems with Air France were Daily Rates: Singles €47-54, doubles €68 de. Price: €270 total for three nights, not unusual. The alternative offered Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 17/20 including breakfast, double. by the website was to email the board- Hotel Alter Wirt Görlitz: Hotel am Goldenen ing passes. The cafe manager said he Strauss (three-star), Struvestrasse 1, would print them for us but the email The town of Freising, at the south D-02826, Görlitz, www.stadthotel-go- never arrived (it wasn’t here when we end of the Halltertau, is close to the erlitz.de, €370 for three nights, double. got back to the U.S, either). We wound Munich Airport, a location that pushes This was a package rate through the up going to the airport early where the hotel rates up. This family-operated, local tourist office and included hotel, Air France kiosk had no problem print- better value choice in nearby Goldach all breakfasts, one dinner, museum ing boarding passes. By the way, the offers 14 bright, cheery rooms with entrances, etc. passes were printed at an Alitalia ki- high-speed Internet and a decent osk—there was not an Air France unit restaurant serving mostly traditional Berlin: We decided against the in sight. And when the Air France Air- dishes in the €11 to €14 range. usual hotel approach and instead bus A321 landed at Paris, the attendant booked an apartment through Soccer fans will appreciate that thanked everyone for flying Alitalia. FlipKey (www.flipkey.com). After Germany’s fabled Bayern München surveying Berlin apartment accom- On arrival at Charles De Gaulle football club plays its home games at modations at FlipKey, we selected a less than 24 hours before our 31 May Allianz Stadium, just 20 minutes from promising one and were put in con- flight to Pittsburgh, we discovered the hotel. tact with an owner, Peter Altman. We Delta has no staffed desk after 3pm. Contact: Hotel Alter Wirt, Haupt- ended up renting for four nights in Much later we learned there is a phone straße 66-68, D-85399, - an outstanding modern apartment in at a vacant desk that travelers can use Goldach, tel. +49 811/ 55 14 0, www. the Prenzlauer Berg district, near the to speak with a Delta employee. Mul- alterwirt-goldach.de Eberswalder Str. U-Bahn station. Situ- tiple Air France reps informed us we Daily Rates: Singles €48-86, doubles ated in the heart of the district and could not check-in early at CDG; that €66-106 surrounded by at least 20 restaurants it could only be done online (despite Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 15/20 and cafes, this one was hard to beat. being able, two weeks earlier, to check We paid €291, inclusive of the clean- in at the airport 30 hours prior to our More Hallertau & Hops Info ing fee, for the four nights. This was a flight). Later, on a hotel business center • Tourist Association Hallertau quiet, fully renovated apartment with computer, we logged on to the Delta Hops Country, www.hopfenland-haller- large beds, free Wi-Fi, all linens, full website but were refused permission tau.de kitchen (which we really didn’t use, to check-in early. “Restrictions,” it

Gemütlichkeit 11 July 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com exit (took us to Business Class security Dear Subscriber Continued from page 2 line). However, we soon found the We Recommend economy line and got through faster from a reader who has, at our recom- than expected. It took about 30 min- This listing of good value hotels in popular destination cities is mendation, purchased one of the intended for fast reference. Additional hotels and links to hotel utes from arrival at the non-working websites is in the “Hotels” pages at www.gemut.com. Hotels guides—usually Germany—and who kiosks to exiting security. are arranged in price order, higher to lower. complains “it’s all in German.” Yes, Berlin each listed establishment has a one Back home we found an email Hotel Art Nouveau, Leibnizstr. 59, tel. +49/030/327 7440, sentence description in the local lan- from Delta dated May 30, precisely [email protected], www.hotelartnouveau.de 24 hours prior to our CDG flight, re- Hotel Domus, Uhlandstrasse 49, Germany D-10719, tel. guage, but 95-percent of the informa- +49/030/882041, fax 882 0410, [email protected] tion for all hotels and restaurants is re- minding us we could check in early! Bern John Ruch Hotel Bristol, Schauplatzgasse 10, CH-3011, tel. +41/31/311 lated via symbols and maps. On pages 0101, fax 311 9479, email [email protected] via email at the front of the book, the guide is Hotel Kreuz, Zeughausgasse 41, CH-3000, tel. +41/031/329 explained and the symbols identified (Editor’s Comment: In their headlong 9595, fax 329 95 96, [email protected] in several languages, including Eng- Lucerne rush to lower costs through automation, Hotel Wilden Mann, Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-6000 Luzern, tel. lish. They indicate the availability of and maximize revenue via code-sharing +41/041/2101666, fax 2101629, [email protected] such hotel services as Internet, wire- and alliances with other carriers, the air- Hotel Cascada, Bundesplatz 18, CH-6003 Lucerne, tel: less Internet in rooms, meals served +41/041/226 80 88, fax 226 80 00, [email protected] lines are creating the confusing, frustrat- Munich on a terrace, lift, air-conditioning, ing experiences described by Mr. Ruch. Hotel Exquisit, Pettenkoferstr. 3, tel. +49/089/ 551 99 0, fax facilities for kids, accessibility for Complicating the process are increasingly 551 99 499, [email protected]. those with restricted mobility, plus, of Hotel Adria, Liebigstrasse 8a, D-80538 München, tel. more invasive security procedures. In a +49/089/242 1170, e-mail: [email protected] course, the lowest and highest prices better world we would all be able to print Hotel Kraft, Schillerstr. 49, tel. +49/089/594823-24, fax 550 for single and double rooms, and the boarding passes at home or at our hotel 3856, [email protected] price for breakfast if it is not included Rothenburg ob der Tauber and go straight to security where we Reichs-Küchenmeister, Kirchplatz 8, Rothenburg o.d. Tau- in the room price. If there is a supple- would not only be quickly scanned and ber, Germany D-91541, tel. +49/09861/97 00, fax 97 04 09, ment available for half-board (break- “wanded” but be relieved of non-carryon [email protected] Hotel Hornburg, Hornburgweg 28, D-91541, tel. fast and dinner) that price will also baggage. The current airport experience, +049/09861/8480, fax 5570, [email protected], be shown. So don’t be intimidated by however, is a barrier to travel. Are better www.hotelhornburg.de that lone sentence in German; read the days ahead? Probably not.) Salzburg & Environs Schloss Haunsperg , A-5411 Oberalm bei Hallein, Ham- explanatory pages in English and access merstrasse 32, tel. +43/06245/80662, fax 85680, info@ this great travel resource.—RHB schlosshaunsperg.com News & Deals Hotel Jedermann, Rupertgasse 25, Austria A-5020, tel. Readers’ Forum • Christmas in Style: Karen Pa- +43/0662/873241-0, [email protected] Continued from page 11 Vienna sold’s annual “Christmas Markets of Hotel Römischer Kaiser, Annagasse 16, A-1010, tel said, require airport check-in. So the Imperial Europe” is an exclusive, per- +43/01/512 77 51 0, [email protected]. sonal, luxury tour led by Ms. Pasold Altstadt Vienna, Kirchengasse 41, tel. +43/01/526 3399-0, next morning we got to the terminal fax 523 4901, [email protected], www.altstadt.at extra early only to learn there are no herself. It features five-star accom- Pension Aviano, Marco-D’Aviano-Gasse 1, tel. +43/01/512 Delta kiosks—we were supposed to modations and offers a far superior 8330, fax 512 8330 6, [email protected] figure out on our own that we had to product to the commercial junkets run Zürich Hotel Florhof, Florhofgasse 4, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. use an Air France kiosk. The first one by major tour companies. This year 41/01/261 4470, fax 261 4611, [email protected] we lined up for was dysfunctional. her 12-night sojourn starts November Hotel Scheuble, Mühlegasse 17, CH-8001, tel.+41/44 268 48 The second refused to process our 25 in Prague and visits the Bohemian 00, fax 268 48 01, [email protected] village of Mcely, then Dresden, Berlin, Frankfurt Airport check-in and told us to go to a coun- Steigenberger Esprix Hotel Frankfurt Airport, Cargo ter. Fortunately we saw a Delta rep Warsaw, Krakow, and Budapest. First- City Süd, D-60549 , tel. +49/069/69 70 99, fax 69 70 94 44, passing by (there none standing by to rate hotels include Prague’s U. Prince, [email protected] Taschenbergpalais in Dresden, Cha- Hotel Birkenhof, von-Eiff-Str 37, Hanau-Steinheim, D-63456, assist anyone having kiosk problems) tel. +49/06181/648 80, fax 64 88 39, info@HotelBirkenhof. who kindly took us to a nearby com- teau Mcely, Palac Bonerowski in de, www.hotelbirkenhof.de (25-minuted from airport) puter terminal where he checked us in. Krakow, and Warsaw’s Le Meridien Hotel Dreieich, Frankfurter Str. 49, Langen , D-63225, tel. Bristol. The $4,690 per person, double +49/06103/91 50, fax 52 030. [email protected] He then led us to the shortest line (vs. Munich Airport several other very long economy class occupancy price includes five-star Daniel’s Hotel, Haupstrasse 11, Halbergmoos-Goldach, check-in lines), where we twice within hotels, all breakfasts, 10 dinners, five D-85399, tel. +49/0811/55120, fax 551213, info@hotel- lunches, ground transport via first- daniels.de, www.hotel-daniels.de 10 feet had to answer the usual lug- Hotel Hoyacker Hof, Freisinger Landstrasse 9a, D-85748 gage security questions asked by not class rail (double sleeper car compart- Garching b. München, tel. +49/089/326 9900, fax 320 7243, especially friendly Delta personnel. ments), luxury motor coaches, ballet [email protected] We finally reached the check-in desk tickets, scheduled tours, all sightsee- Zürich Airport Mövenpick Zürich Airport, Walter-Mittelholzerstrasse 8, where a friendly rep asked the same ing, guides and tips. Info at Classic CH-8152 Glattbrugg, tel. +41/01/808 88 88, fax 808 88 77, questions yet again. Finally we were Europe, 1 Glenmoor, Frisco TX 75034, [email protected] tel. 972-625- 6050, email classiceu- Hotel Fly Away, Marktgasse 19, Zürich-Kloten, CH-8302, tel. handed boarding passes (no luggage +41/01/804 4455, [email protected] to check) and directed to the wrong [email protected].

Gemütlichkeit 12 July 2012