Exploring the Best of Central Dalmatia
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H4 SATURDAY, MAY 11, 2019 VANCOUVER SUN TRAVEL Beautiful Stiniva Bay on the island of Vis, one of Croatia’s more laid-back — and ruggedly beautiful — islands. GETTY IMAGES EXPLORING THE BEST THE OF CENTRaL DALMATIA ISLANDS Central Dalmatia has three From historic cities to blissful beaches, this Croatian region is a delight popular islands. Each is defined by a main town. They’re all beautiful but very FRANK THOMAE different. While Dubrovnik has long been HVAR TOWN (ISLAND touted as the “Pearl of the Adri- OF HVAR) atic,” Croatia’s most spectacular Croatia’s party town. region is Central Dalmatia. It has Celebrities like Tom Cruise, it all. Beyonce, Jay-Z and Eva Lon- Those looking for history have goria come here. But you’ll Split and Trogir, two UNESCO cit- mostly see young wannabe ies packed with relics from Roman celebrities getting drunk and Venetian times. and behaving badly. That’s There are islands and beaches, what Hvar is know for, but the including party-island Hvar, re- reality is that Hvar Town is laxing Vis, and Brač, where you’ll gorgeous. find Croatia’s most famous beach. It had a pretty harbour, the Central Dalmatia also boasts Cro- largest square in Dalmatia, atia’s most stunning coastline, fea- and some Venetian-era turing great hiking and dramatic churches. There’s a fortress viewpoints (including a drive up overlooking the town and the country’s highest road). harbour. Where to Stay: You can’t SPLIT beat the location of the Riva The unofficial capital of Central Hvar Yacht Harbour Hotel for Dalmatia, Split is Croatia’s sec- Above: The harbour and seafront a taste of Hvar. ond largest city. A very pretty city promenade in Bol. ringed by mountains and sea, it BOL (ISLAND OF is famous for Diocletian’s Palace. Left: The Cetina River in southern BRAč). Built by Roman Emperor Diocle- Croatia as viewed from Omis. Brač is a beautiful island tian in the fourth century AD, the with a couple of nature spots palace is a walled city accessed Bottom left: The town of Omis seen that have made it famous. through four huge gates. With- from Stari Grad on the northern Both are near the small and in the walls you’ll find churches, side of Hvar. charming town of Bol. palaces and squares including the photos: Frank thomae The first is Zlatni Rat beach, Peristyle; the main square which the most famous beach in features an arcaded courtyard and Croatia. The beach is an looks out over St. Domnius Cathe- atia’s longest ziplines in Omiš), almost-triangular spit of dral and its magnificent bell tower canyoning, climbing, white water smooth white pebbles that (which you can climb). rafting and hiking. extend out into the sea, the Split also has the Riva, the prom- Right above town, looking water on either side — crystal enade along the harbour, and Mar- straight down is the Starigrad For- clear. jan Hill, a large park with great tress. It’s a 45 minute hike and is The second natural views over the city. worth it for the incredible views. A attraction is Vidova Gora, The city has many bays and second fortress, the Mirabella For- the highest peak (780 m) in beaches, the most famous being tress, is in town and is also worth the Adriatic Islands. You can Bačvice beach. But the best and exploring. Omiš has a pretty main hike up in 2 hours and enjoy most family-friendly beach is Bene square, some Roman ruins, and one perfect views looking straight beach at the tip of Marjan Park. of the nicest beaches in Croatia. down at Zlatni Rat. For those wanting to hike, Mosor If you have a car, drive up the Bol itself is a little town and Mountain has many trails, the most canyon to the Mila Gojsalić statue. many visitors come for the challenging being to the peaks of It’s a 10 minute drive from Omiš. It relaxed lifestyle. There’s a 2 Veli Kabal and Vickov Stup. Koz- will give you a taste of the dramatic km path leading from Bol to jak Mountain is less challenging interior that lies behind the coastal Zlatni Rat lined with hotels, and easier to access with the same mountain range. resorts and other beaches. incredible views over Split. Where to Stay: Hotel Plaza is next There’s a fantastic winery Split makes for the best base if to the beach and steps from the in the centre of Bol called you’re looking to explore Central main square. Stina. Go there for some wine Dalmatia. It is centrally located in tasting. the region and has ferry connec- MAKARSKA Where to Stay: The Bluesun tions to all the islands. Makarska has the most spectacu- Hotel Elaphusa is a beautiful Where to Stay: lar coastal geography in Croatia. It resort between Bol and Zlatni Heritage Hotel Antique Split is a is a small town known mostly for its Rat. luxury option, well situated in the beaches and for its location at the old town. Hostel Flamingo is rec- first settled by the Greeks, then The Bifora Heritage Hotel is in foot of Mt. Biokovo, Croatia’s sec- VIS TOWN (ISLAND OF ommended for those on a budget. conquered by the Romans. Most a convenient location across from ond highest mountain. Makarska is VIS). But the best option for those look- of its highlights today date from the old town and close to beaches. all about nature: lying on the beach, If you ask a Croatian which ing to spend more than a few days Venetian rule (13th to 15th centu- enjoying the scenery, and hiking is their favourite island many in Split is Airbnb — there are many ries). It is a small town with a huge OMIT and biking along the trails around will say Vis. Compared to both apartment options. Expect to pay in concentration of attractions. See The town of Omit is unknown town. Drive up Mt. Biokovo — it’s Hvar and Brač, Vis is very laid the $40/night range off season and the St. Lawrence Cathedral and to most visitors. Thirty minutes a Nature Park with a 23 km road back. Vis town extends along about $120/night June to August. climb the bell tower. down the coast from Split it is a that takes you past incredible view- a shoreline protected by large Restaurants: Bokeria Kitchen & Trogir can be seen as a day trip small town situated at the meeting points, educational trails, and his- hills. You’ll find little bays with Wine Bar for a fine dining expe- from Split but it’s worth more than point of the Cetina River and the torical attractions. The road ends beautiful beaches. If you’re rience. Villa Spiza has excellent, that. Stay a night and walk down sea. Omit is dwarfed by huge cliffs at Sv. Jure peak. At 1,792 m it is the looking for a relaxing Croatian good value cuisine. the small alleys in the evening — and a canyon leading upriver to the third highest peak in Croatia (and island then this is the best more than any other place in Cro- mountains of the interior. the highest accessible by road). destination. TROGIR atia you’ll feel like you’ve stepped The town is known as the “Ad- Where to Stay: Hotel Park Ma- Where to Stay: People A UNESCO town 45 minutes up back to Venetian times. venture Capital of Croatia.” You karska. A Large modern hotel by coming to Vis generally rent the coast from Split, Trogir was Where to Stay: can do ziplining (you’ll find Cro- the beach with excellent facilities. apartments or villas. .