#INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND my # INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND The Swiss holiday magazine.Winter 2016/2017 , Eastern Switzerland / Liechtenstein

Winter scene in the Toggenburg valley with view of the Zuestoll and Brisi, two of the peaks of the dramatic chain. Photograph: Dolores Rupa Editorial

Welcome

Majestic peaks, snowy valleys, idyllic villages: the Swiss winter is truly delightful. In a sparkling world of snow and ice, you’ll find every possible option for creating your own dream winter holiday, whatever that may be.

These glorious natural landscapes offer the setting for an unrivalled variety of facilities and activities. It’s easy to fall in love with the Swiss winter – whether you’re skiing or snowboarding spectacular powder runs or discovering the romantic charm of a snow-blanketed forest on a snowshoe hike. You’ll find plenty to choose from as you devise your perfect break: because you can, but you don’t have to.

Perhaps you’re looking forward to being thoroughly pampered once again? Our luxury and lifestyle hotels are ready to do just that. Our many enticing spas and thermal baths, meanwhile, offer heavenly relaxation for body and soul – especially on cold days.

We hope that you, too, fall in love with our winter. Share your experi- ences using the hashtag #INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND. We look forward to welcoming you!

Jürg Schmid CEO Switzerland Tourism

3 Contents

6 White delights Snowy attractions 8 A winter that has it all Snow sports 8 14 A piste to your doorstep A winter that has Ski-in/ski-out hotels it all 16 From zero to hero TV ad

20 And action! Top snow sports areas 32 Gold for St. Moritz FIS Alpine World Ski Championships 36 Magical spell on the snow 38 Children’s ski school Wintertime is 38 Wintertime is market time market time Zibelemärit (Onion market) 46 Heights of luxury Lifestyle 50 Prix Bienvenu Switzerland’s most welcoming hotels 53 Winter jewels of the Jura Snow & spa 56 Tales to melt the heart 46 #INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND 64 Heights of luxury Ride over the roof of Europe Bernina Express 69 – 73 Expert tips

4 mySwitzerland 20 And action!

36 Magical spell on the snow

64 Ride over the roof of Europe

5 Snowy attractions

White delights Sun, fun and jam Wildhaus, Eastern Switzerland / The Swiss winter offers a tremendous Liechtenstein From freestylers and soulboarders to pro riders, variety of unforgettable experiences everyone agrees: the place to be in Toggenburg is beyond the pistes too. MySwitzerland Snowland. The park, prepared daily with lines for all levels, is also known for its freestyle and avalanche presents six alternative ways to enjoy courses and legendary parties. Annual highlight is the snowy landscapes, from adrena- the nine-day Warmtobel Jam in March. The valley turns into Switzerland’s largest natural fun park: line-fuelled thrills to moments of pure even top riders such as Olympic gold medallist Iouri Podladtchikov are in their element. relaxation. Start dreaming up your own winter adventure now! 2 ∙ snowland.ch

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Room with a ski piste Les Giettes, Valais Book into the Whitepod “eco-luxury hotel” in Les Giettes and you get a whole ski area with your room – or rather, luxury igloo. The venue operates two ski lifts with seven Photograph: Lorenz Richard/Red Bull Content Pool kilometres of red and blue pistes exclusively for guests. The setting is gorgeous: a peaceful, white On or around the Schwarzsee snowy landscape high above the Rhône valley. Schwarzsee, Fribourg Region The idyllic Schwarzsee The 15 cosy and luxuriously furnished expedition (“black lake”) of the Fribourg Region changes character tents each have a wood-fired stove, bathroom and completely in winter when it is covered by a sparkling layer of terrace. On especially cold days, nothing beats a ice. The frozen surface is ideal for skating and cross-country stint in the hotel’s Finnish sauna. skiing; a romantic footpath along the shore showcases the romantic beauty of the snowy landscape. 3 ∙ whitepod.com

1 ∙ schwarzsee.ch

6 mySwitzerland Animal attraction Franches-Montagnes, Jura & Three-Lakes The wide expanses of the snow-covered Jura offer the perfect terrain for dog-sled rides. The village of Les Bois between La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Noirmont is home to a pack of Gstaad, 30 huskies who like nothing better than speeding through the enchanting Fatbikes are all the rage, conquering winter Franches-Montagnes in teams pulling across the Alps. These off-road bikes with sleds. As the dogs are used to visitors, musher Anouk Duflon from Jura Esca- tyres four to five inches across provide pades lets guests help harness the superb grip and are great fun to ride, offer- huskies – as enjoyable for animal lovers as the ride itself. The dogs settle into their ing enthusiasts invigorating tours through pace and the fairy-tale landscape glides past: an unforgettable sensation. A the snowy landscape and exhilarating unique experience of winter, ideal for descents. Fatbikes even have their own families and groups alike. event: the third Snow Bike Festival takes 5 ∙ jura-escapades.ch place from 19 to 22 January 2017 in Gstaad. Well worth seeing!

4 ∙ snowbikefestival.com

Magical world of ice on the piazza Locarno, Ticino From late November to early January, the ground on the Piazza Grande may be ice-cold but the atmosphere is warm and inviting, as befits the festive season. “Locarno on Ice” brings a fairy-tale ambience to the heart of the town, with an ice rink, music, lighting effects and the aroma of seasonal specialities. Visitors enjoy delicacies and drinks at the igloo bars and small chalets; live concerts take place on stage. One of the highlights of the season is the traditional New Year’s Eve party, a favourite also with the people of Locarno.

6 ∙ locarnoonice.ch

7 Snow sports

A winter that has it all

In the ski area of “Les 4 Vallées”, Swit- zerland’s largest, visitors can enjoy all winter has to offer – or choose to do nothing at all. While Giulia and Ricardo seek out snowy thrills, Fabienne, Dominik and Lukas relax on the scenic sun terraces. No wonder they are all #INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND. Text: Giulia Famiglietti, Lukas Vogel A winter that has it all Photographs: Ivo Scholz

Start of the day’s snow sports up at Col des Gentianes: Dominik, Lukas, Giulia, Ricardo and Fabienne (left to right). Snow sports

Sensational panoramic views up on the Mont Fort – but Giulia and Ricardo have already set their sights on the mogul run below.

ki areas that make everyone happy? Yes, they really do exist. Ricardo Sand I love black pistes; mogul runs and fresh powder slopes set our pulses rac- ing. Our three friends, however, are totally different: Fabienne, Dominik and Lukas prefer to take it easy. Chilled-out moun- “How charming tain huts, loungers with soft fleeces and the odd leisurely run now and again amount to a perfect day in the snow for them. Hap- that Ricardo heads pily, Switzerland has more than enough ski areas in which everyone finds just what for the slightly less they want. “Verbier – Les 4 Vallées”, for example, is perfect for those who like to steep ‘girlie’ slope.” pack in the runs, like the two of us. But it’s also ideal for sun-worshippers and lounger Giulia Famiglietti – adores skiing addicts like Fabienne, Dominik and Lukas, with their gentler, more relaxed approach.

Mont Fort, here we come Ricardo and I have been looking forward to this slope”, which is only slightly less steep. We have a moment for ages. From our cable car we gaze out choice, then, between black and blacker. At the over a steep slope covered with thousands of sight of the steep mogul field, many beginners and moguls – giant bumps of snow. Soon afterwards, Sunday skiers go into a cold sweat – and we, too, we are standing at the top of the Mont Fort, go a little pale. But then this is exactly what we 3,330 metres above sea level. A magnificent pano- wanted: not smooth manicured “motorways” but a rama stretches out before us, with the Grand genuine sporting challenge. Ricardo behaves like a Combin in the south and Mont Blanc in the dis- real gentleman and heads for the “girls’ slope”. We tance. Below us, at the foot of a flight of 113 steps then experience an extremely bumpy ride that from the cable car station, are the two runs: the gives our legs a total hammering. Now I know “boys’ slope” immediately under the station, which why I bust a gut twice a week on the stepping plunges straight into the abyss, and the “girlie machine at the gym.

10 mySwitzerland Giulia and Ricardo pick the FIS piste from Les Attelas to Les Ruinettes, one of the finest runs for experts.

11 Snow sports

The fondues at the Cabane du Mont Fort come with fabulous views of the mountains.

12 mySwitzerland “This is how a perfect day on the slopes ends: with a gentle run straight to après-ski.”

Lukas Vogel – loves chilling out

For leisure skiers, chilled-out mountain restaurants are just as important as varied pistes: Verbier has both.

Fabienne, Dominik and I are leisure skiers So first of all we take time to admire the panorama of snow-capped peaks from the summit station of Col des Gentianes. We look up to the Mont Fort With a stomach full of cheese, there’s only one in awe and wonder how anyone could possibly thing to do next: a proper siesta on a lounger. With fling themselves down from there. The thought this in mind, Fabienne, Dominik and I ski leisurely makes Dominik’s tummy rumble, so we decide towards the mountain cabin of Les Gentianes. But to stop for refreshment after we’ve done a few once we’re out on the sun terrace, not one of us leisurely runs on immaculately prepared pistes. A nods off: the views of the 4,000-metre peaks are so hot chocolate is called for, and the café at La spectacular you can’t stop marvelling at them. Chaux appears just at the right moment. Just before four o’clock, another of the day’s We’ve agreed to meet Ricardo and Giulia for highlights beckons: après-ski, so the three of us de- lunch at one o’clock in front of the Cabane du cide it’s time for our last run back to the resort. Mont Fort. At twenty past we greet our friends Here, too, Verbier comes up trumps. While we ski with a smile. The fact they’re late doesn’t worry us: leisurely down, our two friends enjoy a final exhil- we’re always happy to relax – and they’re more arating blast on the steep piste that crosses the me- than happy to give their legs a rest. The fondue, at andering forest trail. Meeting point for all of us is an altitude of 2,450 metres, tastes fabulous, and the W Off Piste bar on the Place Blanche, in the that’s just how we feel. Our day on the slopes in heart of Verbier. This is the outdoor bar of the Verbier is proving to be wonderful, and Ricardo Hotel W Verbier, where we are staying, and a cool and Giulia cheerfully point out we’re only halfway spot to look back at our adventures over a drink: through. They have another three hours for a lot the bumps, jumps and powder fields, restaurants, more runs – such as those marked yellow on the mountain huts and views. We relive a fabulous day map. In Verbier, yellow means controlled but not under the Valais sun – and already start dreaming groomed. of the next one.

13 Ski-in/ski-out hotels

A piste to your doorstep Snow sports enthusiasts agree: the closer your bed to the piste, the more fun you’ll have on holiday. 5 MySwitzerland has picked three gems from the 2 6 country’s Design & Lifestyle Hotels, each of which 3 1 4 combines chic alpine style and an ideal location.

Hotel W Verbier Ä

Verbier, Valais The lively Place Blanche by the gondola station at the foot of the pistes is a fitting location for W Verbier. The inspiring architecture and uplifting décor, featuring extensive use of wood and stone, bring a contemporary metropolitan feel to the heart of the alpine resort. Luxurious rooms, suites and residences, an exquisite high-tech spa (800 sq. m) and cool DJs in the bar and nightclub: welcome to style heaven.

1 ∙ wverbier.com

14 mySwitzerland Nira Alpina À Chalet Chocolat À

Silvaplana-Surlej, Graubünden The design La Tzoumaz, Valais It is only 100 metres from the beautiful of the luxurious Nira Alpina hotel draws on the and cosy Chalet Chocolat holiday home to the nearest piste – power of wood, granite and other stone, combining and with it, the vast ski area of “Les 4 Vallées”. The bright and stylistic elements from the Engadin with a city vibe. spacious six-room chalet charms guests with its chic alpine Highlights include direct access to the Piz Corvatsch décor, open fireplace, two large terraces, sauna and gorgeous cable car and superb views from the rooftop bar. views.

2 ∙ niraalpina.com 3 ∙ interhome.ch

Snow + spa = heaven Enjoy invigorating activities in nature before blissful relaxation back at the spa: these wellness specialists offer everything for a perfectly balanced break. frutt Lodge & Spa À

Melchsee-Frutt, Lucerne-Lake wellness- Lucerne Region After a thrilling day Hostel 4000 on the ski pistes, head straight to the spacious frutt Spa (900 sq. m) for heavenly Saas-Fee, Valais For a cool relaxation. Or experience something truly and innovative place to stay, special: just a few paces from the hotel, try check out the world’s first your hand at ice-fishing on the frozen lake. youth hostel with its own Good luck! spa and gym complex. The 5 ∙ new youth hostel, which fruttlodge.ch welcomes guests of all ages, is also Switzerland’s first Lenkerhof five-storey visitor accommo- gourmet spa resort Ä dation built of wood – and just four minutes’ walk from Lenk, Bernese Oberland The indoor the lifts. pool is vast, the outdoor mineral pool soothes the skin and the base station of 4 ∙ wellnesshostel4000.ch the gondola lies opposite the hotel. No wonder a stay at the stylish Lenkerhof promises the ultimate break.

6 ∙ lenkerhof.ch

15 TV ad

The stunt man pulls tricks, Bruno takes it easy – but earns praise and admiration with selfies of cool stunts.

Bruno’s story now at: From zero MySwitzerland.com/ to hero winter Bruno’s challenge: how can you spend your ski holidays chilling out on sunny restaurant terraces while at the same time impressing your friends with spectacular action shots? No problemo. The protagonist of Switzerland Tourism’s TV ad employs his own private stunt man. Soon enough, Bruno has become a hero in the virtual world…

16 mySwitzerland 4 As Bruno says, “you can, but you don’t 8 6 have to”: here he presents selected 3 7 tips for daredevils – and devotees of 1 5 relaxation. Find more adventures at 2 MySwitzerland.com/winter

Grin and bear it Nendaz-Veysonnaz, Valais Experts regard the “Piste de l’Ours” in Veysonnaz as one of the finest in the world. Snaking through a steep pine forest, the north-facing “Piste of the Bear” regularly hosts World Cup races and guarantees a thrilling run.

1 ∙ veysonnaz.ch

Pure adrenalin Zermatt, Valais No fewer than 38 sparkling peaks higher than 4,000 metres frame the valley, their pristine slopes promising unforgettable runs for freeride enthusiasts. Soar up in one of Air Zermatt’s helicopters before a thrilling glide down over heavenly powder to the resort: an experience that can’t be topped.

2 ∙ zermatt.ch

Enlightening experience Vevey, Lake Geneva Region A walk through fairy-tale forests on a snowy mountain along a trail lit by lanterns is wonderfully romantic. The ride by Above the clouds cog train from Vevey to the summit of Les Pléiades Lucerne, Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region When it’s takes just 40 minutes. After the lantern walk, a grey day at low altitude, a ride on the cog train up the relax and warm up over a delicious dinner at the 2,132-metre Pilatus is a supremely uplifting experience. At Restaurant Les Pléiades nearby. the summit, enjoy a glorious panorama; the tasty fondue from local Chretzenalp cheese is also warmly recommended! 3 ∙ goldenpass.ch 4 ∙ pilatus.ch

17 We grew up skiing. Flying we had to perfect. Once upon a time, 150 years ago, beautiful winter holidays began in the . Today, your holidays start the moment you board your direct  ight to Switzerland with us. And of course, as the winter holiday specialist we always include free transportation of your ski and snowboard equipment. King of the pistes Arosa, Graubünden When the sun sets over Arosa, the piste-grooming machines in the No limits Tschuggen sector go into action. As co-pilot of a Crans-Montana, Valais In the world of freestyle, ten-ton machine with up to 490 horsepower, Crans-Montana is tops: the new snow park is one of the enjoy the thrill of manoeuvring around the steep finest in Europe. As well as a dramatic superpipe, riders find pistes – and feel like king of the mountain. lines for all levels of ability with an impressive variety of There’s a certificate with photo as a souvenir. features – including kickers with tables from two to twenty 6 ∙ metres, gaps, step-ups, step-downs, hips and more. arosabergbahnen.ch

5 ∙ crans-montana.ch/snowpark

Engadin adventure Camera running St. Moritz, Graubünden A piercing blue sky, sparkling Stoos, Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region Test your snow and a perfectly prepared cross-country ski trail – skills as a ski racer and admire your performance welcome to active relaxation, Engadin-style. You can ski afterwards on screen – with the help of the Swisscom the entire 42,195 kilometres of the famous Engadin Ski Skimovie piste in Stoos. Your run is filmed free of Marathon from Maloja to S-chanf any time you like – but charge; thanks to the Swisscom Snow Cup app, you of course you don’t have to. can even download the video and share it with friends.

7 ∙ engadin.stmoritz.ch 8 ∙ stoos.ch

19 Top snow sports areas

Flims Laax Falera, Graubünden

The sky’s the limit for freestyle riders at four superb snow parks high above the . More than 90 obstacles and the world’s longest half-pipe thrill skiers and snowboarders of all levels of ability, from beginner to pro. Photograph: Jan Geerk 20 mySwitzerland And action! Fairy-tale forests and powder fields, panoramic pistes and free- style parks: the Swiss winter offers a dramatic setting for every sport and activity on snow. The spectacular mountain backdrops delight photographers too – professional and amateur alike.

21 22 mySwitzerland Alpthal, Mythen, Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region

The Alpthal Valley is located ten kilometers south of Einsiedeln. The Grosser Mythen forms a majestic backdrop for snowshoe hikers exploring ever-changing trails through a peaceful winter landscape. Photograph: Jan Geerk 23 Kleine Scheidegg, , Bernese Oberland

Magnificent slopes covered in deep powder snow and the world-famous mountain trio of the Eiger, Mönch and promise pure exhilaration in a setting of sublime beauty. Photograph: Christof Sonderegger

24 mySwitzerland 25 26 mySwitzerland Les Diablerets, Lake Geneva Region

The spectacular 107-metre-long “Peak Walk” suspension footbridge at Glacier 3000 links two pinnacles. The view of the Oldenhorn (left), other 3,000-metre summits and 4,000-metre giants is breathtaking. Photograph: © Gstaad 3000 AG

27 28 mySwitzerland Crans-Montana, Valais

The ski area above the sunny mountain terrace of Crans-Montana offers tremendous variety. 140 kilometres of piste, including the World Cup run of Mont-Lachaux, promise endless fun under the Valais winter sun. Photograph: Olivier Maire 29 30 mySwitzerland Moléson-sur-Gruyères, Fribourg Region

At an altitude of 2002 meters, the Moléson ski region lures with ski runs for the experienced and families – with stunning views to top them. And the so-called “Freiburger Herausforderung” (Fribourg challenge) black summit run delights those up for a challenge! Photograph: Pascal Gertschen

31 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships

Gold for St.Moritz Text: Lucas Roos Photographs: Nicola Pitaro, Alessandro Della Bella, Giancarlo Cattaneo

The Alpine World Ski Championships take place in St. Moritz from 6 to 19 Feb- ruary 2017. This will be the fifth time that the town stages the event: a fitting tribute to the resort that invented alpine winter tourism.

he combination is a winner: an enchanting The thrilling “Free Fall” snow-covered landscape famous for its The expansive slopes of the Corviglia are perfect for Tsunny skies and the magical quality of its hosting major skiing events – especially after piste light; one of the most compact and modern of all designer Bernhard Russi, former downhill World ski arenas, set with the Corviglia area below Champion and Olympic gold medallist, reshaped St. Moritz’s home mountain, the ; and a tra- the start of the Men’s Downhill course for the pre- dition of snow sports that is unrivalled. No wonder vious World Championships. For the course to have the Alpine World Ski Championships are coming the 800-metre vertical drop prescribed by the Inter- for a fifth time to the magnificent high valley of the national Ski Federation (FIS), the start had to be Upper Engadin, following the success of contests relocated 150 vertical metres higher. So much the in 1934, 1948, 1974 and 2003. After all, this is the better: now at 2,840 metres above sea level, the start cradle of winter tourism, venue for two Winter is the most spectacular of any downhill course. Even and for many years a highlight of hardened athletes gulp when they stand at the top the women’s Ski World Cup circuit, and here, the of the notoriously steep “Free Fall”. For the first passion for snow sports is omnipresent. 150 metres, the terrain drops away with a gradient

32 mySwitzerland Interview with Franco Giovanoli

Director, FIS Alpine World Ski Championships

Franco Giovanoli, why should people experience the World Championships in St. Moritz live? The scenery, the atmosphere, the races, being close to the competitors – it’ll be amazing. That’s why we’re encouraging visitors to make the most of it with our slogan, “Take your time”: to enjoy the atmosphere on the slopes and in the re- sort, make friends and also experience the glorious landscape. What has changed with respect to the 2003 World Championships? The race courses were already perfect 14 years ago. The big developments have happened above all in technology and communication. Also, the medal ceremo- nies will no longer take place in the resort but at the Ice Pavilion in the Kulm-Park, a venue with a wonderful history. How will this major event affect the environment? High-mountain terrain is particularly sen- sitive to human intervention. That’s why we’ve worked closely with the environ- mental protection authorities. Fortunately we’ve been able to build on infrastructure already largely in place. What are your personal hopes for the event, Franco Giovanoli? Fine weather, fair competition, enthusi­ astic spectators and an accident-free event. And of course the odd Swiss win would be wonderful! When will the next World Championships be in St. Moritz? Soon, hopefully! The event is bound to come here for a sixth time too – not least because of our passion and enthusiasm for snow sports.

33 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships 2017, St. Moritz About 600 athletes from around 70 coun- tries will compete for World Champion titles

and medals in the six disciplines of downhill, The “Free Fall” , super-G, slalom, super com- promises a spectacular start bined and the team event. The champion- to the Men’s Downhill. ships run from Monday, 6 February to Sunday, 19 February 2017.

stmoritz2017.ch Piz Nair

Start Downhill Men “Corviglia”

Freier Fall / Free Fall Willy’s Gate

Start Downhill Ladies Munt Murezzan “Engiadina” Muot Alpina Start Super G Men Cürva Start Super G Ladies Suvretta Kante / Suvretta Edge Foppa Start Giant Slalom The Suvretta-Kante / Lanigiro Suvretta Edge is one of Men & Ladies the critical spots of the Men’s Downhill course. Mauritius Gianda

Mauer / Wall Grosses Loch / Big Hole

Tschainas

Weisses Band / White Ribbon

Start Slalom Felsen / Rock Ladies Start Slalom Men Rainalter Alp Giop

Rominger

Engnis / Narrows

Lärchensprung / Larch Jump Lärchenweg / Larch Trail

Up to 5,500 fans can watch the FINISH races from the grandstand in the Ceremonies finish area. take place in the evening at St. Moritz’s Kulm-Park. of 100 per cent or 45 degrees. In just six seconds, in the direction of the finish and stop to see the racers accelerate from 0 to 140 kilometres per hour. action close up at thrilling key locations such as the Bernhard Russi maintains, however, that the start is Suvretta Edge or the Larch Jump. Thanks to the not the most difficult section of the course, just the open nature of the terrain, spectators in the finish most spectacular. In the eyes of spectators, the skiers area also enjoy a superb view of the races as well as a who brave it are heroes. sensational atmosphere. Within the finish stadium, enthusiasts see the upper half of each race on a giant Female racers also gained their own new start up on screen before watching the lower half “live”, and the Piz Nair, near the “Free Fall”, at the World Cup so can enjoy cheering on the competitors with finals in 2016. Its name, “Britannia”, honours the 5,500 other fans. pioneering British travellers who founded winter tourism in St. Moritz in 1865. The start, 2,745 me- Ceremonies in a historic setting tres above sea level, catapults competitors at a speed The medal ceremonies for the 2017 World Cham- of 100 kilometres per hour down the 2.5-kilometre pionships take place in the Kulm-Park, by the his- “Engiadina” downhill run. toric Ice Pavilion of the Kulm Hotel. Built in 1905, the Belle Epoque pavilion was a symbol of the Win- Close to the action ter Olympic Games in 1928 and 1948 but had fallen St. Moritz extends a warm welcome also to specta- into disrepair. St. Moritz managed to win the ser- tors, who will enjoy a thrilling first-hand experi- vices of the renowned architect Norman Foster to ence of contests as about 600 athletes from 70 coun- carry out a stylish and imaginative renovation and tries compete in six disciplines for the coveted extension. The decision to stage the medal ceremo- medals. Visitors on skis or a snowboard can head up nies at this historic site also represents a tribute to the mountain to watch the races from the side of the pioneering St. Moritz’s long tradition as a sparkling course. From the start area, simply ski or snowboard centre of alpine snow sports.

Legendary World Cup races in Switzerland

Nations Team Event: high thrills on the lowest part of the slope.

7– 8 January 2017 13 – 15 January 2017 25 – 26 February 2017 “International Ski Days”, 87th International Lauberhorn FIS Ski World Cup, Races Crans-Montana

The “International Ski Days” The Lauberhorn Races in Wen- Every year at the end of Febru- have taken place in Adelboden gen, which take place against ary, the world’s top female in the Bernese Oberland for the dramatic backdrop of the skiers gather on the demanding more than 60 years. The Men’s Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, new Mont-Lachaux run in World Cup races in the disci- represent one of ’s Crans-Montana. The piste was plines of giant slalom and sla- iconic events. The downhill completely remodelled in 2013 lom attract more than 40,000 race, staged for the first time in in order to promise athletes a spectators every winter, bring- 1930, is the longest on the spectacular and challenging ing an irresistibly festive spirit to World Cup circuit at 4,480 me- contest. Dubbed the “Women’s the resort. The mountain that tres, while the slalom slope is Streif” after the notorious Men’s stages the races, the Chuenis- one of the toughest worldwide. Downhill run, the course guar- bärgli, is notorious for the steep Every year, huge crowds prom- antees high thrills for specta- slope before the finish, which ise an electric atmosphere. tors. allows no errors.

35 Children’s ski school Magical spell on the snow Text: Claudio Zemp Photographs: Gaudenz Danuser

Man of nature from another world: the 65-year-old geologist Andi Triet plays Ami Sabi. The wise magician is the soul of the ski school in the Weisse Arena region.

36 mySwitzerland In the “Snow Wonderland” of the ski school at Flims Laax Falera, Ami Sabi The creator is the star. The magician enchants The singer-songwriter youngsters with his stories – and Linard Bardill created learning to ski becomes child’s play. the character of Ami Sabi for the ski school. The first picture book, “Ami Sabi in the Snow Wonderland”, appeared in 2008, followed by many other stories and songs. The character he figure strolling across the ski piste is Andi Triet from Zurich causing a stir. An apparition from another has personified the Tera: a Celtic druid, perhaps? A snow shaman? The man is clearly popular, as children are magician Ami Sabi since calling to him from all sides: “Ami Sabi!” He greets 2008. Andi’s knowledge them all in return, taking his time. In fact, the chil- of nature and magical dren learned to ski with him: “Dear kids,” he says, energy perfectly match the character “I remember all of you!” That may be a slight exag- geration, as Ami Sabi meets hundreds of children from the picture book. every week. For eight years he has been the key character at the heart of the ski school of Flims Laax Falera.

Ski school with ceremonies An otherworldly atmosphere surrounds the “Snow Wonderland”. The wooden fence is also a bound- When they have mastered it, they receive a stone ary, Ami Sabi explains: “Parents stay outside.” Inside from the Rhine as a reward. With the pine tree there’s a circle, the “Patnal”. The whole ski school Schembrina, they learn how to slow down. has already gathered here for the ceremony. The Camutscha shows them how to turn. Jumps are the children, sitting around a fire, greet Ami Sabi with speciality of the “wild man” Um Selvadi. “After a song. In it, his companions also make an appear- just three days, the children are ready for the ance: the pine tree Schembrina, the chamois Cam- mountain,” Ami Sabi says. utscha, and Um Selvadi, the wild man. The chil- dren join in: “Um Selvadi says: hello!”, they sing by Man of nature heart. Then Ami Sabi speaks, the undisputed sover- The character may be fictional, yet Ami Sabi is eign of this snow school world. He knows simply genuine. The magician has been played all along everything. Every day he comes by to tell a story. by Andi Triet, a 65-year-old who puts his all into The children love him. Today they hear how Um the persona: “I live, think and dream as Ami Sabi,” Selvadi stole ibex from the king in . Ami Sabi he says. Outside the season this man of nature leads has enchanted the children: “Everything I tell you another life – as a travel guide who also enjoys is true!” he says. He can even perform magic: after hunting for crystals and minerals. But in Flims he the story, he turns a snowball into a crystal sphere. has long been Ami Sabi, the soul of the Weisse Arena (“White Arena”) ski area. And now it’s time Children receive a leather pouch in which they for him to leave. “Goodbye, my dear children,” collect the trophies awarded for each skill acquired. he says, “till tomorrow!” The children sing a fare- All the ceremonies at the ski school are connected well song. They will never forget him – the magi- with nature. At Crapun, the “weather stone”, chil- cian who has awoken in them a love of nature and dren learn the correct skiing position, for example. skiing.

37 Cities

A heavenly scent of cinnamon and mulled wine is one of the hallmarks of Basel’s popular Christmas market. Beautifully deco- rated stalls sell local delicacies and gifts, while ornately adorned trees – such as the one by Christmas decoration specialist Johann Wanner on the cathedral square – delight visitors of all ages.

Photograph: André Meier

38 mySwitzerland Wintertime is market time

39 The sparkling lights of the city of Geneva create a festive seasonal effect late on December afternoons – even from a distance. This photograph of the lakeside city was taken from the Pointe de Poêle Chaud, a 1,628-metre peak in the of .

Photograph: Stefan Gruenig

On the fourth Monday in November, the city of cele- brates the humble onion in grand style. The “Zibelemärit” (onion market) held in front of the stately Parliament Building and in neighbouring alleys opens well before dawn, selling mulled wine, biscuits, souvenirs – and of course onions.

Photograph: Terence Du Fresne

Zibelemärit (Onion market)

From early in the morning, an aroma of mulled wine and savoury tarts fills the air at the traditional Zibelemärit. Thousands of visitors enjoy a market that has become one of Bern’s best-loved festivities.

Text: Lucas Roos Photographs: Terence Du Fresne

hat sensible reason could there be for getting up at an ungodly hour on a WMonday late in November and swapping a cosy, warm bed for the cold, dark, damp outdoors? Yet that is exactly what thousands of people do, every year and with great pleasure, for Bern’s Zibelemärit. This traditional onion and vegetable market attracts people in droves – in- cluding Andrea Meyer from Bern, who normally loves lying in. “For the Zibelemärit I’m out of bed really early,” she says. “As a Bernese of course I wouldn’t want to miss it.”

Onion tart and other delights The earliest to arrive are the stallholders. “We set off from Kallnach near Lake Biel just after one in the morning,” says Therese Meer-Lüthi. “We need a couple of hours to set up the stand and lay out the onions nicely. We had only just finished and the first of our braided onions were already gone.” Officially the Zibelemärit begins at exactly 6 am, but many Bernese people do not want to wait that long. So the traders, many of whom arrive in Bern soon after midnight, are allowed to start selling their produce from 3 am. First thing in the morn- ing the Zibelemärit belongs entirely to the locals, who walk through the alleys to the Bundesplatz square to buy their braided onions and enjoy the unique atmosphere – and of course a slice of onion tart and a glass or two of mulled wine to warm up. “Sure, you can treat yourself to a mulled wine before going to work when it’s Zibelemärit,” reckon Julia and Mike from the city’s Bümpliz dis- trict. “After all, it’s not a day like any other.” As dawn breaks over the federal capital, many locals set off for work, home or school, clearing the way for thousands of visitors who come in coaches and special trains from far and wide.

Therese Meer-Lüthi loves the special atmosphere of the market early in the morning.

44 mySwitzerland Art of onion-braiding The braided onions are small works of art, and also offer a convenient form of storage. With practice, it takes about twenty minutes to braid one bunch. The stallholders, their relatives and other helpers spend days making them by hand in the run-up to the market.

Colourful tradition: expect wild confetti battles.

Confetti, toy hammers and parties Many legends have grown around the origins of the Zibelemärit. Historians agree, however, that the market, held on the fourth Monday in November, dates to the mid-19th century – as children learn at school. “Farming women from the lake region of canton Fribourg first sold their onions at the Feast of St Martin,” explains Fabio, aged 14. For the children, who have the afternoon off school, the market is all about two things: bags of confetti and plastic toy hammers. Bern’s medie- val covered arcades prove ideal for wild confetti battles, but the children take delight in startling strangers with their squeaky hammers just about everywhere. In the evening, some of the city’s nightclubs have even started staging onion-themed parties. It seems there’s no stopping the Zibele- märit: the most-visited popular festivity and best- loved tradition of the is more vibrant than ever. Therese Meer-Lüthi loves the special atmosphere of the market early in the morning.

45 Heights of luxury Text: Gabrielle Attinger Photographs: The Chedi Andermatt

The 35-metre indoor pool offers views of Andermatt’s beautiful mountain scenery, while the lounge sofas promise blissful relaxation. Lifestyle

Does luxury have a place in a wild mountain landscape? In the “valley of the bears”, the Urserental, discerning travellers have discovered the village of Andermatt and The Chedi – for many, the finest five-star hotel in the country.

My long stint in the pool has paid off: the equip- ment guru is now alone in the wood-panelled room, decorated with the skis of famous racers, and has all the time in the world just for me. “Would you like your own skis or perhaps some- thing a little faster today?” he asks with a twinkle in his eye, as he taps a racing ski. No thanks, I’ll stay with my short skis – though not for long, it turns out. The hotel offers too much for me to want to spend the entire day on the pistes.

I am back in time for a delicious afternoon tea served in the lobby. This is a landscape of sofas and divans grouped around an open fire and framed The Chedi casts its spell the mo- by black columns; spanning it all is a wooden roof ment guests arrive in reception – with gables. The mixture of alpine and oriental and continues to enchant them throughout their stay. elements and the sophisticated lighting create a magical atmosphere. Here, above all, the hotel fully lives up to its name: “Chedi” is a term used in Thailand to describe the tallest building of a tem- glide across the room, weightless. My body ple complex. is in the water, yet almost spilling out: the I indoor swimming pool at The Chedi is an Good taste at every level all-round infinity pool. The water splashes over the The gym and steam area, next fixture on my sunken edges on all four sides, giving me the im- schedule, lies one floor below the indoor pool. A pression of drifting through space. I float under the sign on a door says “Hydrotherapy”. What an invi- glass roof and along the glass façade, past the large tation! So I’m not being lazy if I opt for the steam lounge sofas that frame the pool – a pleasure that bath rather than a spinning bike: I’m choosing a I could enjoy for hours. health treatment. In the spa, an atmosphere of restrained elegance reigns. No neon-lit ice grotto, From the pool, I can see through a glass wall into no colourful steam cabins, just simple ice fountains the lobby. Guests in ski gear are heading across it to finished in mother-of-pearl against a background the equipment room, the so-called Living Room. of marble, dark stone and abundant wood. Yet the They bring me back down to earth. That’s right, doors, which extend all the way to the ceiling, I wanted to head onto the slopes too: time for the promise guests an impressive appearance – even in ski butler. a bathrobe.

47 FUNCTIONALITY IS PART OF OUR FAMILY

Zurich | Geneva | Lucerne | Brunnen

FIND YOUR STORE AT VICTORINOX.COM

MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | ESTABLISHED 1884 Lifestyle

From the rooms to the restaurant, the Chedi philosophy is simple and uncompromising: for guests, only the best is good enough.

My room lies at the very top of the tall building ties and European delicacies to spicy Indian, Thai with pointed roof, and offers a view over the vil- and Chinese dishes. The menu reflects the charac- lage and the mountains. This space, too, radiates a ter of the Chedi as a whole: an exquisite combina- simple elegance, with its décor of wood, stone and tion of the best of European and Asian cuisine. leather in natural tones; like all guest rooms, it has Beef fillet with soya, ginger and coriander, beurre its own open fireplace. No golden chandeliers or blanc, Chinese cabbage and shiitake mushrooms – picture frames; instead, large-format black-and- unbeatable. white photographs adorn the walls. I also like the iPad, which allows me to control the lights, televi- Just like the breakfast buffet, with four long coun- sion, audio system and shutters. A wonderful toy – ters offering guests countless delicacies. “You I can even open my room door with it from the drink sparkling water, don’t you?” the waiter comfort of my bed. checks as he pours. I want a memory like that! The porter also knows, without any prompting on my Exquisite food and wine part, which car he should bring to the door. Yes, “The Restaurant” or “The Japanese Restaurant”? everything here is just superb: the facilities, the The question presents itself that evening and is not food, the service. Then I go for one last time on to so easy to decide. With a heavy heart I leave the balcony, look down to the glass-roofed pool for another time, and soon afterwards find myself and promise myself: I’m going to come back, even looking at a menu that ranges from alpine speciali- if only to float across that wonderful room.

49 Switzerland’s most welcoming hotels

Luxury hotel

CERVO Mountain Boutique Resort Ö Zermatt, Valais At the CERVO Mountain Boutique Resort, luxury also means feeling thoroughly at home. Each of the seven chalets, prized for their cosy atmosphere, has its own wellness area – with sauna, sanarium, power showers, massage room and open fireplace. The restaurant in the main chalet, with 14 GaultMillau points, is another highlight.

1 ∙ cervo.ch

Prix Bienvenu Attentiveness, warmth, empathy and helpfulness: these are the key criteria for winning Switzer- land’s Prix Bienvenu. Every year, the prize honours the 100 hotels that offer the country’s warmest welcome. The awards are based on feedback by hotel guests

taken from more than 250 rating Luxury city hotel and booking websites. Here are the winners in the five categories Four Seasons Hotel for 2016. Des Bergues ÄÁ Geneva The city’s first hotel, and still the first choice for a luxurious stay, is the Four Seasons Hotel Des Bergues in the heart of Geneva. The magnificent building with 68 rooms and 35 suites on the shore of Lake Geneva invariably impresses guests – not least with its nostalgic and lavish charm. The staff are notable for the warmth and dedication with which they welcome and pamper guests.

2 ∙ fourseasons.com/geneva

50 mySwitzerland City hotel

Boutique-Hotel La Rinascente ÔÁ Locarno, Ticino The boutique hotel La Rinascente occupies a carefully restored building from the year 1550, just a few steps from Locarno’s elegant Piazza Grande. The hosts are wonderfully attentive; the outstanding restaurant also delights guests. This is a real gem of a hotel, promising a well-rounded and unforgettable stay.

3 ∙ hotel-rinascente.ch

Cosy leisure hotel

Hotel Glocke ÔÁ Reckingen, Wallis Peace, relaxation and inspiration – three elements come together in Larger leisure hotel harmony at the welcoming Glocke (“Bell”). The heart of the hotel is the large lounge with cosy stove, billiard table and many other games. At this typical Hotel Walther Relais & and intimate hotel, small details make a big differ- Châteaux ÀÁ ence – such as the home-ground flour for the freshly baked bread. Pontresina, Graubünden Wellness a priority? The Aqua Viva spa at the family-run Hotel Walther extends for 700 square 5 ∙ glocke.ch metres and makes a real statement. Just like the stylish dining room, the à la carte restaurant La Stüva with its chic alpine ambiance and the elegant bar with live piano music. Children adore the spacious playroom and the open-air playground.

4 ∙ hotelwalther.ch 5 4 2 3 1

51 We’re some- thing you can all enjoy. 450 times.

Listen to your good taste if you like being selective. There are around 450 varieties of cheese in Switzerland. From extra hard to soft and right through to cream cheese – plus goat’s cheese and sheep’s cheese too. There’s something to keep all connoisseurs happy.

Cheeses from Switzerland. Switzerland. Naturally. www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com Snow & spa Winter jewels of the Jura Text: Caroline Fink Photographs: David Carlier, MSR

High above the town of Yverdon- les-Bains and its thermal spa, the peak of Le Chasseron is a gentle ow and again, a village glides past the window of our train compartment. Most mountain of grand views, whose Nof the time, however, we look out over slopes shelter enchanted forests snow-covered hills and fields. Until suddenly the sound of a harp emerges from the carriage loud- and cosy cabins. The perfect way speaker: next stop, Sainte-Croix. We alight from the train and find ourselves in the heart of one of these to explore: on snowshoes. villages that lie hidden among the gentle mountains and forests of the Jura, offering just what we seek: a silent winter world for us to explore on snowshoes.

Sainte-Croix was once known for its factories in which skilled workers produced music boxes, type- writers and cameras. Today, the only vestiges of this golden age are a factory for music boxes, the small Cinéma Royal – and the Grand Hôtel des Rasses. A “Grand Hôtel” on a small scale, known especially for its panoramic view of the Alps, said to be in a class of its own.

53 Snow & spa

Quite rightly, we discover the following morning: as we eat breakfast in the Belle Epoque restaurant, the sky in front of the windows is glowing like liquid copper. I stand by one of the windows and gaze out. I make out the Alpine peaks on the hori- zon: the Pilatus, the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, the 4,000-metre summits of Valais and Mont Blanc. For a moment I linger, awestruck, until I realise: it’s nearly time for our snowshoe tour!

Enchanted forest and fairy-tale world Soon after, in front of the hotel, we meet snowshoe guide Anne Bornand, a woman with bright eyes, tousled hair and a friendly smile. We’re going to ex- plore the nearby peak, Le Chasseron, with her. We strap on our snowshoes right by the hotel, set off along one of the many snowshoe trails and in a few minutes disappear into the pine forest.

Along the way, Anne Bornand tells us how she moved here 30 years ago from the nearby town of Yverdon-les-Bains – “for love” – and soon also fell in love with the region. “There’s a good energy here,” she says: a walk through these forests and hills lifts your heart. And it’s true: suddenly I feel as if I am in an enchanted forest. The only sounds are the wind rustling the treetops, the snow crunching un- der our snowshoes and a woodpecker drumming somewhere nearby.

For an hour we wander through this fairy-tale world. Then we leave the last pines behind us and walk over the open slopes leading up to the whale- back of Le Chasseron. We climb higher and higher until we reach the top of the ridge, stop still and gaze all around: at a sea of hills and forests, at Lake Neuchâtel and the town of Yverdon-les-Bains nest- ling on its shores, at the broad expanse of the Swiss Plateau – and beyond, once again, the Alps. Up here, my thoughts feel as free as the wind: a wind that dances around us and turns our hands and cheeks numb, so that we soon set off downhill again along the other side of the ridge.

Far below, we disappear once again into the forest, where Anne Bornand suddenly stops in her tracks. “Look,” she says, “a mountain cabin!” And there, among the pines, we see a little wooden house with green shutters – as if Santa Claus had made his home up here. “That’s La Casba,” Anne adds, “one of our mountain restaurants.” Soon afterwards, we’re sitting in a panelled parlour, its snug comfort embracing us like a loving aunt, and we’re sharing a cheese fondue, chatting and laughing until the glow has warmed our cheeks and souls. The rolling expanses of the Jura are a paradise for snowshoeing enthusiasts.

54 mySwitzerland “A walk through these forests and hills lifts your heart.”

Anne Bornand, snowshoe guide

The following day, time has come for us to take leave of Le Chasseron and its charm. This is made easier by the fact that we’re heading to Yverdon-les- Bains, a place full of history. The castle in the heart of the Old Town recalls the power of the Savoy dynasty nearly a thousand years ago; the thermal mineral water that once attracted the ancient Romans still bubbles out of the ground today, to the delight of bathers.

We join them that afternoon at the thermal baths and float in the shimmering blue outdoor pool, letting the soothing, 34-degree water work its magic. We enjoy the whirlpool baths and massage jets, savour the fresh air and let our gaze wander across the countryside to the Jura – to that en- chanted world of the gentle mountains to which we will surely return before long. Earthly bliss: the soothing warm thermal water at Yverdon-les-Bains promises total relaxation.

For sunshine, snow and relaxation • Chäserrugg, Eastern Switzerland / Liechtenstein: panoramic winter hiking • Diavolezza, Engadin, Graubünden: whirlpool bath with views at 3,000 metres • Rigi, Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region: enchanting horse-drawn sleigh rides • Leukerbad, Valais: from snowshoeing on the Gemmi to the thermal baths • Schwarzsee, Fribourg Region: magical interplay of colours at illuminated ice palaces

MySwitzerland.com/winter

55 1

vanwohl “My friend and I did a wonderful snow- shoe hike with her pet husky in the area of La Berra in the Fribourg Pre-Alps. While we stopped for a break we enjoyed the views, the peace and the wonderful feeling of being in nature. I fell in love with the beauty of this pristine landscape.” La Berra, Fribourg Region

56 mySwitzerland Tales to melt the heart

Find inspiring pictures and stories from travellers at inlovewithswitzerland.com. Share your own experiences, too, on social media with #INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND. Our motto: a joy that is shared is a joy made double.

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6 2 1 7

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2 3 sami.l.c “As a ski instructor, I like snow- aziz_boussalem ball fights and happy clients. “Standing on the shore of the lake was something I am Australian, live for sports special. It was cloudy and snowing but suddenly the and adventure and have fallen weather changed and there was magic in the air. In in love with the mountains, riv- the peaceful stillness I felt a strong connection with ers and lakes of Switzerland.” nature. I find Switzerland, with its landscapes, one of Andermatt, the world’s most beautiful countries.” Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region Morgins-See, Valais

57 oliver_wehrli “The beautiful light on the central Swiss Alps just before sunset lasted only a short while. This picture was taken near Seengen on Lake Hallwil. I love our beautiful natural landscapes, especially with the changing of the seasons.”

Lake Hallwil, Aargau

58 mySwitzerland 59 60 mySwitzerland frederichuber “The Aletsch Glacier way below, the in the distance – up here I feel boundlessly free. The Eggishorn, with its altitude of 2,927 metres, is one of my favourite spots. The magic of this place is priceless.”

Eggishorn, Valais

61 4

giorgiocamozzi “In winter, you often have a wonderful view over a sea of cloud to the Alps from the tower on the Uetliberg. I am in love with my country because it offers an endless variety of beautiful photographic subjects in the most compact area.” Uetliberg, Zurich Region

62 mySwitzerland 5

kriste_oh “I come from Lithuania and instantly fell in love with Switzerland. Relaxed skiers and floating birds – this picture shows a perfect balance between rest and movement. The mountains give me a sense of inner peace.” Chäserrugg, Eastern Switzerland / Liechtenstein

6 christianbetschart “I have always loved being in the Swiss mountains. This picture of my brother is from the start of the season. The day was coming to an end and we had just this one chance to take the shot. This moment still gives me pleasure today.” -Hasliberg, Bernese Oberland

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quintner “Seeing the reflections on the dark ice on Lake Silvaplana – a rare phenom­ enon – was an unforgettable moment. I grew up in Sweden and love nature and the landscapes in Switzerland.” Lake Silvaplana, Graubünden

Discover other heart-warming stories: e inlovewithswitzerland.com

Tell your own story via #INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND: e facebook.com/MySwitzerland e instagram.com/MySwitzerland e twitter.com/MySwitzerland_e

63 Bernina Express

Ride over the roof of Europe

Text: Yvonne Eckert Photographs: Rhaetian Railway

Fairy-tale scenery, dramatic bridges and viaducts, sparkling glaciers and at the end of the line, palm trees: the Bernina Express links north and south and offers one of the most spectacular railway jour- neys on earth.

he second hand of the railway station clock in Chur completes the minute. Carlo TCrameri, the train guard, checks that all passengers have boarded, and the Bernina Express sets off. Over the next 122 kilometres, the train will Just before Filisur, a dramatic view greets travellers negotiate 55 tunnels and 196 bridges, climb to an in the rear carriages. The locomotive and the front altitude of 2,253 metres and tackle gradients of up carriages are already crossing the towering Land­ to seven per cent as it winds downhill again. The wasser viaduct, and soon the locomotive will disap- name “Express” should not be taken too seriously, as pear into the cliff. The bridge is an architectural the journey lasts a good four hours. The Albula and showpiece, built of limestone, 65 metres tall and Bernina lines were built more than 100 years ago; in 142 metres long. A flurry of excitement goes 2008, UNESCO declared the section from Thusis through the carriage as passengers whip out smart- in Graubünden to the Italian town of Tirano part of phones and cameras and immortalise the moment. World Cultural Heritage.

64 mySwitzerland Chur

Thusis Filisur

Bergün Preda Spectacular ride: the Bernina Express links different linguistic regions and cultures as it travels from Chur Samedan to Tirano via the highest railway crossing over the Alps. St.Moritz Pontresina Main photo: the Bernina Express just before the Ospizio Bernina Ospizio Bernina, the highest station along the route. Morteratsch Alp Grüm

Poschiavo

Tirano

65 Winter dreams.

Experience 1,280 km of winter landscapes on the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. You can see all the highlights of the tour at SwissTravelSystem.com/grandtraintour Bernina Express

Through the big panoramic windows of the obser- vation cars, the sparkling snow on the pine trees seems almost close enough to touch. The train twists steadily along the flanks of the mountain. At Bergün, several people board with wooden sledges. Along the six kilometres from here to Preda, the railway has to climb 418 vertical metres – with the help of spiral tunnels, which double the distance the train has to travel. The tobogganists take this mas- terpiece of engineering for granted, and as soon as we reach Preda they hurtle off down the popular to- boggan run. “I often came here with my children,” says Carlo Crameri, “sometimes we were even faster than the train.” Ride a steam snowplough Smoke billowing from the chimney, steam hissing from the pipes, snow The train guard Carlo Crameri is end- lessly fascinated by the Albula–Bernina spraying in a high arc… when the line. Below: the train brings sledging enthusiasts from Bergün to Preda and Rhaetian Railway needs to clear snow the start of the popular toboggan run. from the highest railway crossing in Bottom picture: the Montebello Curve reveals glorious views of the Bernina the Alps, the “Xrot 9213” gets to work. massif. The world’s only steam-powered snow- plough still in operation was built in 1910 and cuts through walls of snow as effectively as ever, clearing the line for trains. Railway enthusiasts can experi- ence the battle against the elements first-hand on a dramatic ride on the “Xrot 9213” from Morteratsch to Alp Grüm or from Cavaglia to Ospizio Bernina.

Further information: rhb.ch

guard says. Our train’s Gourmino dining car, with its wood-panelled ceiling from the 1930s and its polished brass lamps, also conjures the charm of a bygone age. “Older colleagues told me that even the Shah of Persia and his wife dined here when they travelled to St. Moritz,” Crameri reveals as the Bernina Express glides through the historic, 5,864-metre-long Albula tunnel towards the Engadin valley.

The region gained fame through the works of the painter Giovanni Segantini, whose final words are said to have been: “I want to see my mountains.” You understand him perfectly in this spectacular mountain setting – especially The Albula Railway Museum beside Bergün station when, soon after Morteratsch station, the train presents the rich history of the Rhaetian Railway. glides around the Montebello Curve, and the “I’ve experienced 25 per cent of what’s on display Bernina massif comes into view. Piz Palü, Bellavista there over the course of my career since 1975,” the and the 4,049-metre rise dramatically

67 Bernina Express

into the sky. The sight of the highest group of mountains in the Eastern Alps framing the majestic Morteratsch Glacier is awe-inspiring. The train guard admits: “I always look up as we go past. The scenery has something magical about it.” Soon after, the train reaches the high plateau leading to the Bernina Pass. To the right lies the Diavolezza ski area, to the left, the Lagalb. The landscape, covered in deep snow, seems to swallow all sound; silence blankets the frozen Lago Bianco. Before changes in the weather here, passengers often see ibex foraging for food. In the distance, the Italian Alps glow in the evening sun. So much beauty takes your breath away. But when an icy wind blows across the high plateau, conditions can also be tough. “Sometimes we need half an hour to clear one set of points of ice On the descent to Alp Grüm, train passengers enjoy a wonderful view into and snow,” says Carlo Crameri. the Val Poschiavo. Snowploughs regularly clear the line, piling the snow several metres high on either side of the tracks. From the highest station along the route – the Ospizio Bernina, at an altitude of 2,253 metres – the red train winds in twisting curves through the wild landscape down to Alp Grüm. “Here it still looks much as it did when the railway line was built,” says Carlo Crameri. The restaurant terrace reveals a magnificent view of the Piz Palü and the Palü Glacier. From here it’s all downhill – in big style. The Bernina line is the steepest railway without cog traction; the train has to negotiate a Swiss Travel Pass vertical drop of 1,200 metres to reach Poschiavo. In the floor of the Val Poschiavo, spring is already Unlimited travel by train, bus and boat for 3, 4, 8 in the air: it’s high time for a gastronomic break. or 15 days (consecutive or chosen freely within “Pizzoccheri” sounds promising, and tastes even one month) including public transport in 75 towns better: a local speciality prepared with buckwheat and cities and 50 % discount on most mountain noodles. “Anyone who loves the mountains should railways. Bonus: free admission to more than do this ride at least once,” says the train guard, Carlo Crameri. “For the natural landscapes, the 490 museums. Children under 6: free (with Swiss culture – and of course the cuisine.” Family Card, accompanied by at least one parent). Children aged 6–15: 50 % discount. Young people aged 16–25: 15 % discount.

SwissTravelSystem.com

All aboard! Special railway experiences • Glacier Express: St. Moritz – Zermatt • GoldenPass Line: Montreux – Zweisimmen – – Lucerne • Gotthard Panorama Express: Lucerne – Flüelen – Lugano • Voralpen-Express: Lucerne – St. Gallen • Les Pléiades cog railway: Vevey – Les Pléiades • Chemins de fer du Jura: La Chaux-de-Fonds – Le Noirmont – Glovelier / Tavannes • Jungfraubahn cog railway: Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraujoch, Bernese Oberland

MySwitzerland.com/panorama

68 mySwitzerland Switzerland Tourism recommends

Strategic premium partners

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The airline of Switzerland Financial services swiss.com ubs.com

Strategic partners

American Express Performance bikes Retail and wholesale trade Car rental Publisher in Switzerland bmc-switzerland.com coop.ch europcar.ch Switzerland Tourism americanexpress.ch Tödistrasse 7 Postfach 8027 Zurich Switzerland Gateway to the Alps Exquisite Swiss biscuit Interest group for Swiss Switzerland Cheese Editors zurich-airport.com specialities non-hotel accommodation Marketing Miriam Nussbaumer and Sandra Sem, kambly.ch stnet.ch/parahotellerie switzerland-cheese.com Switzerland Tourism

Design Festland AG, St. Gallen/Zurich Switzerland Tourism, Zurich SWISS ARMY KNIVES | WATCHES | TRAVEL GEAR Photographs victorinox.com Cover: Stefan Schlumpf Other images: by kind permission of our partners Official partners Printer Stämpfli AG, Bern

Print run 360,000 copies appenzellerbier.ch gastrosuisse.ch gubelin.com swisstravelcenter.ch

Languages The Swiss holiday magazine mySwitzerland is published twice a year in German, French, Italian, hertz.ch holycow.ch intersportrent.ch kirchhofer.com English, Dutch and Spanish.

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swisseducation.com snowsports.ch swisscom.com swissinfo.ch

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MySwitzerland.com/strategicpartners

69 Tips to smooth the way

Get advice and book With our extensive knowledge of Switzerland, we can help you plan the best possible holiday. Call: 00800 100 200 30 (toll-free*).

*Local charges may apply.

Travel in comfort

Tips and information about travelling to Switzerland. Whether you plan to come by plane, train or car, Switzerland has excellent international connections. MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25321

Enjoy the ride

Travel in comfort and enjoy every moment of the journey. A well-served public transport network makes exploring Switzerland fun – and offers total flexibility. MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25349

Find accommodation

From stylish spa hotels to authentic mountain inns and even snug igloos, the choice of accommodation in Switzerland is vast. Booking is quick and easy. MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25384

70 mySwitzerland One click away

Winter is one click away: MySwitzerland.com/winter

Winter in Switzerland – anything is possible! Peace and enjoyment or an adrenaline kick? The variety of a winter in Switzerland fulfils all your wishes. More at: e MySwitzerland.com/winter

Mobile apps Valuable information and services are always at your fingertips with our free mobile apps. e MySwitzerland.com/mobile

Swiss Swiss Swiss Swiss Best Snow Winter Events City Swiss Hike Guide Hotels

Swiss Mag app for iPad All on your tablet Install to download e-brochures. To experience even more in advance, check out p MySwitzerland.com/ipad the new eMagazin and get to know Switzerland through interactive stories. From the end of October 2016 in the Swiss Mag app. MySwitzerland.com Switzerland: small country, great diversity. 220 km from north to south, 348 km from east to west, with tremendous cultural and scenic diversity in between. Eight million people live in an area of just 41,285 sq. km, speaking four official languages (German, French, Italian and Romansh) and countless dialects. The largest city is world-famous Zurich, but the federal capital is Bern. Switzerland is home to more than 120 glaciers, 11 UNESCO World Heritage Properties, two UNESCO Biosphere Reserves and 48 mountains above 4,000 m. The Dufour- spitze in Valais is the highest peak, at 4,634 m, while Lake Maggiore is the lowest point in the country, at 193 m above sea level. Schaffhausen

B o d e n ur s Rhein Th e 7 e The regions Töss Frauenfeld Limma B t A Aargau Liestal Baden B irs Basel Region B Aarau C Bern Region Delémont Herisau

D Appenzell in Bernese Oberland Re e h uss E R Fribourg Region Z Säntis Saignelégier ü 2502 r F i Geneva s Solothurn c Wildhaus ub h - s e e o I G D Lake Geneva Region e L Zug Z 2306

u H g Churfirsten Graubünden e r W s a ee La Chaux- 1607 e Einsiedeln lens e I L Jura & Three-Lakes de-Fonds i e n Malbun e s 1899 t r h Flumserberg J e Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region el Grosser Mythen Bi Weggis 1798 Glarus K Rigi Eastern Switzerland / Liechtenstein Vierwald- Glärnisch Schwyz 2914 Bad Ragaz 1408 2119 L Ticino Neuchâtel e Napf stättersee Pizol Aar C Pilatus Stoos 2844 Landquart l Samnaun M te 9 Braunwald La Valais Stans Elm nd châ Klewenalp qu N u Murten Sarnen 1898 Altdorf Linthal art Klosters Zurich Region Ne Stanserhorn R Chur 2834 de e Flims ac u Weissfluh Piz Buin Ste-Croix L Sörenberg 2350 s Davos 3312 E Engelberg s mm Brienzer 3614 Brigels e Rothorn Laax Scuol e y Titlis Arosa o Fribourg And action! r Thun Melchsee-Frutt 3238 Inn Yverdon B a E Disentis/ Lenzerheide- L rs. Meiringen Pages 20 – 31 les Bains 2175 ze Mustér in Lai T n rhe Obersaxen Gantrisch h rie er un B A Hasliberg rd e a 3503 Vo Lumnezia Schwarzsee me r r 3294 Müstair Sim s e e e Sedrun 2998 6 Interlaken Sustenhorn Piz Beverin 1 Flims Laax Falera 2362 D Joux Charmey de Niesen 2 Andermatt in Alpthal, Mythen Le Sentier Eiger 3970 he Savognin Vallée G rr 2002 e Moléson-sur- 2970 nte n i 3 i Schilthorn Mönch 4107 H 3056 Kleine Scheidegg, Lauterbrunnen Le Moléson r Gruyères 3 a Piz Nair S Mürren 4274 Pontresina 4 a Airolo Les Diablerets L 4158 St.Moritz Les Paccots Adelboden r 3402 Jungfrau - e Münster 5 h h Crans-Montana St-Cergue c c Silvaplana Kandersteg s s Château- t t Montreux Lenk e 6 a Gstaad l le L é m n d’Oex A g 2973 Les Mossettes 1677 Lötschental Sils im E./Segl L e 2042 Wildstrubel 3272 Diavolezza La Dôle 4049 Rochers- Les Mosses 3244 3934 Bettmeralp Basòdino Soglio Nyon de-Naye Leukerbad Bietschhorn Fiesch Piz Bernina 4 Crans- Bosco/ Leysin Riederalp Montana Gurin T Les Diablerets i c Ve Wintertime is i n Villars-s.-O. 5 Brig rzasca o Visp M e Sierre sp a ôn a market time Sion h Vi g Le R g Morgins St-Luc ia Locarno Pages 38 – 45 F 8 Veysonnaz Bellinzona 3257 Thyon M Grächen Ascona Champéry Haute Nendaz Dents Grimentz Zinal 02040 80 km 7 Basel du Midi Saas-Fee 8 Geneva Verbier 4545 01020 40 miles 9 4357 LUGANO Bern e

Zermatt no Champex r ga Lu Arolla Matterhorn o i 3090 i d 1701 Grand 4478 Gornergrat g Monte Combin g Lago Generoso 4314 a Tales to melt the heart 4634

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B o d e n s Rhein Thur e e Töss Frauenfeld Limm at Liestal Baden irs B Aarau Delémont A N Herisau

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e L de-Fonds Chasseral i e n Malbun e s 1899 t r h Flumserberg e 2 el Grosser Mythen Bi Weggis 1798 Glarus Rigi Vierwald- Glärnisch Schwyz 2914 Bad Ragaz 1408 2119 Neuchâtel e Napf stättersee Pizol Aar Pilatus Stoos 2844 Landquart l Samnaun te Braunwald La Stans Elm nd châ Klewenalp qu u Murten Sarnen 1898 Altdorf Linthal art Klosters Ne Stanserhorn R J Chur 2834 de e Flims ac u Weissfluh Piz Buin Ste-Croix L Sörenberg 2350 s Davos 3312 E Engelberg s Tödi mm Brienzer 3614 Brigels e Rothorn Laax 1 Scuol e y Titlis Arosa o Fribourg r Thun Brienz Melchsee-Frutt 3238 Inn Yverdon B a Disentis/ Lenzerheide- L rs. Meiringen H les Bains 2175 ze Mustér in Lai T n rhe Obersaxen Gantrisch h rie er un B A Hasliberg rd e a 3503 Vo Lumnezia Schwarzsee me r r 3294 Müstair Sim s e e e 2998 Interlaken Sustenhorn Sedrun Piz Beverin Piz Kesch 2362 Joux Charmey Grindelwald de Niesen Wengen Andermatt in Le Sentier Eiger 3970 he Savognin Vallée rr 2002 e Moléson-sur- 2970 nte n i i Schilthorn Mönch 4107 H 3056 Le Moléson r Gruyères a Piz Nair S Mürren 4274 Pontresina a Airolo L 4158 Finsteraarhorn St.Moritz Les Paccots Adelboden r 3402 Jungfrau - e Münster h h Rheinwaldhorn St-Cergue c c Silvaplana Kandersteg s s Château- t t 11 Montreux Lenk e a Gstaad l le L é m n d’Oex A g 2973 1677 Lötschental Sils im E./Segl L e 2042 Wildstrubel 3272 Diavolezza La Dôle 4049 Rochers- Les Mosses 3244 3934 Bettmeralp Basòdino Soglio Nyon de-Naye Leukerbad Bietschhorn Fiesch Piz Bernina Crans- Bosco/ Leysin Riederalp L Montana Gurin T Les Diablerets i c Ve i n Villars-s.-O. Brig rzasca o Visp M e Sierre sp a ôn a Sion h Vi g e R g L St-Luc ia Morgins Veysonnaz Locarno Bellinzona 3257 Thyon Grächen Ascona Champéry Haute Nendaz Dents Grimentz Zinal 02040 80 km du Midi Saas-Fee Verbier Dom Dent Blanche 4545 01020 40 miles

4357 ITALY LUGANO e

Zermatt no Champex r ga Motorway Lu Arolla Matterhorn o i 3090 i d 1701 Main road Grand 4478 Gornergrat g Monte Combin g Lago Secondary road Dufourspitze Generoso 4314 a 4634 Minor road

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g Car transport by rail Grand-St-Bernard a Airport L www.swisstravelcenter.ch Our partnerregions MySwitzerland.com

#INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND mySwitzerland The Swiss holiday magazine . Winter 2016/2017