LONELY PLANET’ S

FROM THE WORLD’S LEADING TRAVEL AUTHORITY

000-frontmatter.indd0-frontmatter.indd 1 119/06/20099/06/2009 4:38:464:38:46 PMPM BEST PLACES 92 FOR A CUPPA BEST SEASON & PLACE CONTENTS 96 COMBINATIONS TOP TRAVEL BOASTS, 100 MYTHS & LEGENDS HOLIEST PLACES TO MEET 102 YOUR MAKERS BEST PLACES TO HAVE YOUR 106 MIDLIFE CRISIS INCREDIBLE VANISHING 110 DESTINATIONS FOREWORD GREATEST MOST SURREAL 04 48 MARKETS 112 LANDSCAPES ULTIMATE MOST EXTREME TOP 10 PARKS 06 ITINERARIES 52 ENVIRONMENTS 116 & PRESERVES BEST BEACHES TO SWING A MOST INCREDIBLE STUNNING 10 HAMMOCK 56 DIVE SPOTS 120 ARRIVALS BIGGEST MOST INCREDIBLE SURF TOP 10 PLACES 14 ADRENALIN RUSH 58 BREAKS 124 TO STEAL A KISS MOST BEAUTIFUL FAULTLINE! BEST EARTH- BEST WAYS TO EKE OUT 18 TOWN SQUARES 62 SHAKING EXPERIENCES 126 YOUR HOLIDAY MONEY COOLEST WORKING MOST ECCENTRIC BEST OBSCURE 22 HOLIDAY JOBS 66 PLACES TO STAY 130 HOLIDAYS BEST ADVENTURE MOST AWESOME QUINTESSENTIAL TRAVEL 24 TRAVEL IDEAS 68 TREKS 134 EXPERIENCES WORLD’S ULTIMATE BEST FOOD & PLACE 28 HAPPIEST PLACES 72 CITY BREAKS 136 COMBINATIONS BEST OF COSMOPOLITAN FRIENDLIEST SOULFUL PLACES TO 32 AFRICA 76 COUNTRIES 140 EXPERIENCE A SOLSTICE ULTIMATE PLACES TO SEE MOST ICONIC ENGINEERED RISKIEST TRAVEL 34 WILDLIFE 78 STRUCTURES 144 PURSUITS BEST BEST FAMILY HOLIDAY COUNTRIES THAT CAN STILL 38 PUBLIC ART 82 DESTINATIONS 146 BE TRAVELLED ON THE CHEAP BEST PLACES FOR DEEP FINEST CLASSIC BEST PLACES TO CHALLENGE 42 THINKING 86 TRAIN TRIPS 150 THE LOCALS ULTIMATE GREATEST HISTORICAL BEST PLACES TO DON FANCY 44 DRIVING HOLIDAYS 90 JOURNEYS 154 DRESS

000-frontmatter.indd0-frontmatter.indd 2 119/06/20099/06/2009 4:39:064:39:06 PMPM BEST IN MOST LIP-SMACKING TOP WORKS OF 158 SLOW TRAVEL 222 STREET FOOD 286 ENGINEERING GENIUS TOP 10 BOYS’ & GIRLS’ ESSENTIAL EXPERIENCES TO BEST BRITISH REGIONAL 160 OWN ADVENTURES 226 MAKE TIME STAND STILL 290 FOOD ESSENTIAL BACKPACKER ULTIMATE BEST PLACES TO WED & BEST 164 TRAILS 228 SAILING TRIPS 294 PLACES TO GO AFTER A BREAK UP MOST SPINE-TINGLING AWE-INSPIRING BEST VIEWS OF THE EIFFEL 168 COMMUTES 232 ANCIENT SITES 296 TOWER BEST CITIES FOR A JAMES TOP TOURIST TRAPS WORTH BEST SKIING IN NORTH 170 BOND FOOT CHASE 236 THE CROWDS 300 AMERICA BEST WORLD’S STRANGEST WEIRDEST DINING 174 CHEAP SLEEPS 238 FESTIVALS 304 EXPERIENCES TOP 10 PLACES TO BEST PLACES TO ULTIMATE WATER-SPORTS 178 EXPERIENCE THE BLUES 242 EXPERIENCE MUSIC 306 ADVENTURES CLASSIC CAMPERVAN MOST INCREDIBLE FINEST WALKS 180 ROUTES 246 TROPICAL PARADISES 310 IN THE UK DREAMIEST FAIRY-TALE BEST PLACES TO GO BACK TOP MOUNTAINS TO CLIMB 184 DESTINATIONS 248 IN TIME 314 WITHOUT A PORTER DISAPPEARING ACTS & THE MOST GLAMOROUS A-LIST TOP 10 OFF-THE-BEATEN- 188 BEST SUBSTITUTES 252 DESTINATIONS 316 TRACK US NATIONAL PARKS STRANGEST BIG-TICKET BRITAIN: THE MOST BIZARRE 192 MUSEUMS 256 ISLES’ MOST VISITED SIGHTS 320 RESTAURANTS & BARS MOST SPECTACULAR UNMISSABLE UNDER-THE- WORLD’S BEST HUMAN 194 NATURAL ATTRACTIONS 260 RADAR DESTINATIONS 324 RACES FINEST YULETIDE TOP 10 PLACES TO GO MOST BEAUTIFUL 198 HOTSPOTS 262 SKINNY-DIPPING 328 BUILDINGS BEST SUSTAINABLE NEW YORK’S BEST FOOD BEST 202 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 266 CULTURES 330 TRADITIONS BEST BEST VALUE MOST ICONIC 204 ECOLODGES 270 DESTINATIONS 334 SPORTING EVENTS GREATEST LITTLE-KNOWN TOP 10 AUSTRALIAN TOP 10 208 NEIGHBOURHOODS 272 OUTBACK EXPERIENCES 338 BIG OBJECTS BEST SPIRITUAL NEW ZEALAND’S CHOICEST ULTIMATE 212 SLEEPS 276 ACTIVITIES 340 PARTY CITIES BEST UNITED STATES BEST VALUE ENTERTAINMENT BEST 214 ROAD TRIPS 280 AROUND THE WORLD 344 BOAT JOURNEYS BEST WAYS ULTIMATE ART LOVERS’ COLDEST & HOTTEST 218 TO SEE EUROPE 282 PILGRIMAGES 348 PLACES IN THE WORLD

000-frontmatter.indd0-frontmatter.indd 3 119/06/20099/06/2009 4:39:064:39:06 PMPM FOREWORD

I’ve always had travel lists going: things I really exploring the beautiful islands dotted down the must get around to doing, experiences I just coast of Croatia, so sign me up for an Adriatic might get around to and places that I simply sailing trip. cannot understand why I haven’t yet put a tick And fi ve memorable experiences that I’m very beside. Like the Trans-Siberian Express – I’ve happy to be reminded of? Well, there’s walking been back and forth between Asia and Europe the circuit of Mount Kailash, a high-altitude stroll plenty of times over the years, so why have I where your fellow walkers remind you that no never ridden the big red train? I’m glad to see smile is bigger than a Tibetan one. Or driving it’s on our 1000 Ultimate Experiences list, a gentle down the west coast of Africa in the Ultimate reminder that I really should get around to riding Banger Challenge. This was a hoot, all the way the Russian rails. from the London departure through to giving My own travel lists are a combination of ‘wow, the car away at the end (as contestants are I’d like to do that’ and ‘why on earth haven’t I required to do) in Banjul, Gambia. I bought a very done that? Yet.’ 1000 Ultimate Experiences simply good, trouble-free banger as well. North Korea takes the sort of lists that I draw up and extends is defi nitely on my ultimate list, unquestionably them in every direction. the weirdest country I have ever been to. I’d If I was going to pull out fi ve interesting ‘must- agree with Greek Island–hopping as an ultimate do’ projects from this long list – after the Trans boat trip as well. On my last visit we followed Sib of course! – I’d probably start with a couple the simple (and very successful) plan of heading that have already found their way onto my own down to the harbour when we were ready to lists. I’ve always wanted to ride a cargo ship out move on to a new island and simply grabbing the to the Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia, fi rst boat that came by, no matter which island it following the trail of Paul Gauguin. Riding a bus went to. Although I only pedalled one two-week over the Karakoram Highway from Pakistan into stage of the whole four-month Cairo-to-Cape China has survived unticked on my wish-list for Town Tour d’Afrique bike ride, I’d have to agree far too long. I’ve tried nine of the 10 ‘Best Food that travelling the whole length of the continent & Place Combinations’, so it’s defi nitely time has to be an ultimate African experience. I headed for New Orleans to try gumbo. I’m a Of course there are some ultimate experiences 4 keen cyclist and I’ve spent far too many hours I’m very glad to have already put a tick beside, watching the Tour de France on television – it’s because that means I never need to spend time to see it for real. And I’ve had great times another night in a Japanese capsule hotel.

Tony Wheeler Lonely Planet Founder

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Gaze out to sea over the bell towers of medieval Rab, in Croatia.

000-frontmatter.indd0-frontmatter.indd 5 119/06/20099/06/2009 4:39:064:39:06 PMPM ULTIMATE ITINERARIES

THE BEST OF THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN AFRICAN WILDLIFE OUTDOORS 10Lemurs are Madagascar’s biggest Tasmania’s Overland Track snakes draw, but don’t miss out on other between Cradle Mountain and colourful creatures, from birds to Lake St Clair, Australia’s deepest chameleons. p37 natural freshwater lake. p68

Test your bravery and get up close A classic East Coast road trip will and personal with the big cats on a highlight Queensland’s tropical walking safari through the Serengeti scenery, the laid-back beaches of National Park. p162 New South Wales and an out-of- the-way corner of Victoria. p46

Admire ancient Aboriginal rock art against a brilliant red sunset backdrop at Ubirr. p234

Of the seven walking trails in Kruger National Park, the Napi Trail is the best for spotting rhinos, buff alo, elephants, leopards and lions. p25

Spy massive herds of migrating The great Ghan chugs through wildebeest and zebras from above Aus tralia’s remote Red Centre. p87 in a hot-air-balloon ride over Serengeti National Park. p227 The empty Australian outback stretches between the mainland’s Shark Alley, south of Cape Town, southern tip and Darwin at the 6 is a stretch of water teeming with Top End. p55 real-life Jaws. This is the ultimate diving experience. p160

000-frontmatter.indd0-frontmatter.indd 6 119/06/20099/06/2009 4:39:114:39:11 PMPM ACTIVE NORTH FIVE ASIAN BEAUTIFUL NEW AMERICA ADVENTURES ZEALAND It’s no surprise that parasailing The 3000-odd tiny islands of Here’s something you’ve likely was invented in Acapulco; it’s the Halong Bay are dotted with never dreamed of doing: crooning perfect location to fl oat in the air, sublime beaches and grottoes – an Elvis tune to attract a dolphin. looking over the city, the hills and move through the emerald waters The word on the street (waves) is the islands beyond the bay. p15 on the boat trip of a lifetime. p345 that they’re fans of the King. p17

A Cabot Trail road trip off ers na- Unforgettable Bhutan is the Black-sand beaches and rainforest tional parks, whale-watching, long- world’s last Buddhist kingdom, walks make Waitakere your perfect haul and short-and-sweet walks, and 70% of this treasure (which excuse to escape the city for a day, or and relaxing village life. p46 measures its success in terms two, or three. p209 of Gross National Happiness) Temperatures can plummet to remains covered in forest. p202 -50°C and storms are the norm in the Alaska Range. In this extreme environment, there are glaciers to marvel at and SPAM to eat when the weather turns bad… p55

‘There she blows’ is not something you want to hear near the Yellowstone supervolcano when According to legend, the sheer you’re taking in the sights at the valleys around the Unesco World world’s oldest national park. p65 Remote Ladakh, on India’s Heritage–listed Milford Sound were highest plateau, is sprinkled cut by the magical adze of Tute with Buddhist monasteries and Rakiwhanoa, giving them an other- surrounded by giant canyons and wordly beauty. p195 snowy peaks. p53 Postbombing, the Greenpeace boat Need a bicycle? A horse? At Rainbow Warrior sits in Matauri China’s Kashgar market people Bay, a peaceful home to coral, fi sh, sell all sorts of things, from the eels and colourful algae. p57 practical to the ridiculous. p49 The four-day Milford Track is the Kayakers in Alaska’s Glacier Place your bets and sit back in the trek (or tramp) of a lifetime, leading Bay can paddle to their heart’s stadium for a round of Thai boxing through rainforest and along a 7 content beneath 10 glaciers and (muay thai). Alternatively, sign up wilderness river to the edge of the among countless icebergs, big for a local class and get in the ring spectacular Milford Sound. p159 and small. p25 yourself. p336

000-frontmatter.indd0-frontmatter.indd 7 119/06/20099/06/2009 4:39:214:39:21 PMPM FIVE ULTIMATE THE BEST ISLAND EXPERIENCE THE EUROPEAN JOURNEYS PARADISES WATERS OF EUROPE Scotland’s west coast is made of Cruising the Galápagos Islands is Cruise between the bobbing ice bergs lochs, valleys, mountains, castles not just about lazing around on in Greenland’s Disko Bay. p345 and pretty villages where a whisky a yacht – this is one of the most awaits the chilly traveller. p44 special and preserved natural For three months each year, environments in the world. p347 herring-seeking orcas fl ow into All aboard the Trans-Siberian and Norway’s Tysfjord. Human travel- choose your own adventure on Koh Pha-ngan sure knows how lers can kayak among the cetaceans a journey that takes10 you across a to throw a party but when the or, if braver, jump overboard and third of the globe, from Moscow to hangover sets in, there are plenty of snorkel among them. p26 Vladivostok. p88 deserted beaches and coconut trees to cure what ails you. p13 Sail Croatia’s coastline, exploring the crystalline Adriatic and its 1185 islands, stopping in at the hoity-toity island of Hvar or hidden coves and rustic fi shing villages. p229

Don your bowler hat and blazer for a punt down the River Cam. Make sure to master your punting The 15-day GR20 trek through technique though, or you’ll be Corsica traverses a variety of chasing your tail all day. p307 landscapes, from dense forest to The shallow waters of Papua bleak moonscapes. Watch out for New Guinea’s Samarai Island are the rickety bridges and treacherous a diver’s dream, for experts and rock faces. p68 novices alike. p56

Journey the 140km between the ski Steady winds combined with tame resorts of Chamonix and Zermatt currents and protected bays mean on foot or on ski, depending on the one thing: a sailing trip in the season. p24 balmy British Virgin Islands. p228

Stow away on a barge and drift The beauties of the Cape Verde Personalise your Greek Islands down the Canal de Bourgogne, archipelago have been discovered: experience and discover the most wine glass in hand. p159 it combines West African and hidden of coves by swimming the Portuguese colonial cultures and fl at azure waters from shore to shore. p309 8

000-frontmatter.indd0-frontmatter.indd 8 119/06/20099/06/2009 4:39:254:39:25 PMPM THE FINEST FIVE UNMISSABLE FESTIVALS EATING EXPERIENCES Jazz Fest is the essence of New For the best in British cuisine, we Orleans. See the best in gospel, defy anyone to go past Richmond funk, zydeco, rock, Caribbean and eel pie and a side of mash. If that jazz in the ultimate setting. p243 doesn’t app-eel, there’s always jellied eels… p291 Celebrate Christmas in the sun in Puerto Rico with a month-long excess of roast pig and salsa. p201

The most magical time to visit Stonehenge has to be during the summer solstice, when druids and drum circles descend on the mysterious ancient formation. p141 Matzo-ball soup, pastrami on rye, pickles – these dishes might have originated in Eastern Europe but they are now unmistakably the tastes of New York City. p266

There are mouth-watering versions to be had in almost any city’s Chinatown but Shang hai’s dumplings beat the lot. p138 Dress up in New York City for the Village Halloween Parade, which Hungry for a street snack in Tel attracts a 2-million strong audience Aviv? An Iraqi sabich is just the and 50,000 fancy-dressed paraders. thing: pita bread crammed with p154 an unbelievable combination of salads, vegetables and sauces. p223 During Japan’s Hadaka Matsuri (Naked Man Festival) thousands It might taste bitter but a fresh- of men strip off , douse themselves brewed cup of coca tea (combined in freezing water and dash around with the view of Machu Picchu) bringing new year luck to those will cure all your ills on the Inca who touch them. p240 Trail. p94 9 ULTIMATE ITINERARIES

000-frontmatter.indd0-frontmatter.indd 9 119/06/20099/06/2009 4:39:294:39:29 PMPM BIGGEST ADRENALIN RUSH

TAKE A DEEP BREATH, GET STRAPPED IN & FEEL THE BUZZ. WE BRING YOU THE THRILL-SEEKERS’ BUCKET LIST.

BIG SHOT RIDE, 11 USA ROCK CLIMBING, This ride, atop the 280m, 110-storey Stratosphere observation tower in 13 USA Las Vegas, has incredible views – but They say Yosemite Valley is climbing mecca, with climbs you’ll be too busy vomiting up your coveted by ‘rock heads’ far and wide, and a degree intestines to notice. The Big Shot of diffi culty that has necessitated many technical runs on compressed air, which, with incredible force, rockets you in your innovations. Even today, as the most demanding ascents harness from the ride’s base to the have crumbled, afi cionados still point to El Capitan, top of the Big Shot’s 49m tower in Yosemite’s 915m granite wall, as the planet’s greatest rock just over two seconds. As you shake climb. Just because it’s been mastered doesn’t mean it’s about in your seat like a rag doll, at a combined total of over 300m above now a pushover – recently, several experienced climbers ground, you’ll be thanking your died when the weather turned unexpectedly foul. If you lucky stars you didn’t wear white make it, you deserve to puff up your chest, because you’re underwear. simply the best! Better than all the rest!

It’s on the boulevard, on top of the Be prepared to self-rescue; it is illegal to camp at the base of any wall; Stratosphere Hotel; you can ride it read the climbers’ guide at www.nps.gov/yose. 10am–1am Sunday to Thursday, open until 2am on Friday and Saturday.

alarming speeds, often mounting passing car, say your Hail Marys and MOTORCYCLE-TAXI pavements, and wipe-outs occur hope for the best. RIDE, THAILAND with shocking regularity. Often the 14 12 injured rider or passenger is carted Look for the orange vests worn by This is one of the most dangerous off to hospital in a passing tuk tuk licensed taxi riders, who are legally rides of them all: three people die (not the most comforting way to required to carry a spare helmet; every hour in Bangkok traffi c. get treatment). Just hang on tight, motorcycle taxis are usually down the Motorcycle-taxi riders bob in squeeze your legs in even tighter sois just off the main roads. and out of endless lines of cars at to avoid getting kneecapped by a

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SMILE & THE WORLD SMILES WITH YOU. THAT’S THE THEORY: TEST IT OUT IN THESE MIRTH-MAXED DESTINATIONS.

VANUATU MONTRÉAL, QUÉBEC, HAPPY, 51 Many a human’s idea of 52 CANADA 53 TEXAS, USA blissful living involves swinging Clean, welcoming and refreshingly Welcome to the self-proclaimed in a palm-strung hammock while multicultural, Montréal is happy ‘town without a frown’. The tiny the ocean swooshes gently onto a enough year-round. Come July, Lone Star State settlement of Happy white-sand beach nearby – so it’s no though, it’s downright hilarious. (setting for the 1999 movie Happy, surprise that the South Pacifi c island Just For Laughs takes over the Texas in name only) is a frankly nation of Vanuatu was voted top dog city in summer, packing venues disappointing collection of silos and in the New Economics Foundation’s with the best in both Anglo, and gridded streets. But look outside Happy Planet Index. The water’s Francophone comedy. It’s one of the ‘city’ limits and the best of Texas ridiculously blue and teeming with the biggest comedy gatherings in is on the doorstep, guaranteed to life; the interior’s lush and volcanically the world, hosting many a top- raise a smile. Hike or ride amid the rumbling, great for exploring amid drawer wisecracker. Shows sell out red-rock hoodoos of the Palo Duro the breadfruit trees. But it’s the sense fast, as even the less known acts are Canyon, the USA’s second biggest; of community that makes this a virtually guaranteed to be a riot. But spy bison and stunning sunsets in truly happy place. Extended families even if you can’t get a ticket you can lesser-known Caprock Canyon; or congregate regularly for age-old giggle along – every night the city’s spend your Wild West dollars at the celebrations – in Vanuatu, there’s Latin Quarter is abuzz with street Amarillo Livestock Auction, a slice 28 always a knees-up somewhere. performers, parading puppets and a of pure Americana (comedy Stetson fantasia of fi reworks. practically mandatory). Visit from April/May to October, when temperatures range from 18°C to 28°C. For special off ers and advance info, sign The auction takes place every Tuesday; The terrifying Land Diving festival (the up to the festival newsletter at www.ha canyons are best visited in autumn and original bungee) runs in April/May. haha.com. winter – summers are extremely hot.

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HIT THE HIGHWAY, WITH AWE-INSPIRING SCENERY YOUR ONLY COMPANION.

CAPE TOWN, the wild north, traversing the Scottish 101 SOUTH AFRICA, TO coast is a bonny journey. Castles are DELHI CAIRO, EGYPT part of the scenery, and plenty of pretty villages make perfect pit stops. 104 TO AGRA, Allow at least 10 weeks for this This is whisky country, too – making African odyssey. Starting in cosmo- INDIA a most rewarding swill at the end of a politan Cape Town, the journey day’s driving. If you’re willing to tackle heads through 11 countries and India’s manic roads, includes some stunning road stops. Use the interactive map at the National this is the trip for you. As if Victoria Falls, Mt Kilimanjaro Trust of Scotland website (www.nts.org and the Nubian Desert with the .uk) to fi nd places of interest at which (You could also hire world’s biggest sand dunes weren’t to stop. a driver, sit back and enough, this mammoth stretch is enjoy the ride.) The trip also home to every species of African leaves from the capital, wildlife. Road conditions are dire, and an independent overland road AMSTERDAM TO a confusing tangle of trip bursts off the ‘diffi cult’ radar. 103 ISTANBUL 12.8 million people and As the crow fl ies it’s around 2200km, the gateway to the rest Overland Adventure Travel (www.oasis but ‘as the car drives’ the kilometres of the country. Head overland.co.uk) runs 16 week all-inclusive are innumerable. It depends how tours; cost is around £2500 all up. many of the counties on either side southeast for 240km of the route you visit. You’ll almost and you’ll be rewarded certainly pass through Germany, by reaching Agra – Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, synonymous with the COASTAL Romania and Bulgaria. That’s a lot of 102 HIGHLANDS, diff erent road rules, road conditions stunning Taj Mahal. SCOTLAND and ‘I Spy’ games. If you want company, check 44 Single-track roads hem Scotland’s www.delhitoagra.com, astonishingly beautiful west coast. When you fi nally arrive at İstanbul reward which off ers tours and tips From the long sea lochs and glacier- yourself with a stay at the Arena Hotel for planning your sojourn to gouged valleys in the south, through (www.arenahotel.com), in the historic port area of Sultanahmet; the building is India’s Golden Triangle. the central coastal plain shouldered a 19th-century Ottoman classic. by mountains, to the serried edges of

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45

Hire a guide or DIY – both are white-knuckle options for a road trip in India’s north.

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