Telephone: +44 (0) 1722 322 652 Email: [email protected]

Northern The Roman road to the monastery of Santa Maria

https://www.onfootholidays.co.uk/routes/northern-portugal/

Route Summary

At a glance

7 nights (6 days walking) - the full route. We recommend adding nights in Porto.

How much walking?

Full days: 11-23 km per day, 3-6¼ hrs walking Using shortening options: 8-17km per day, 2-4 hrs (using lifts)

Max. Grade:

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Hidden away in the golden hills and lush green valleys of north-western Portugal are delightful villages where rural communities continue a lifestyle that is centuries old. These villages (where farmers keep long-horned cattle, fed on maize stored in distinctive granite espigueiros) are linked by old paved tracks and footpaths (which you will use) across the hills. Feast on bacalhau (cod) at Brufe’s remarkable Restaurant Abocanhado (not included in holiday price), walk along a Roman road high above the valley, and end at a magnificent monastery, now converted into a top hotel.

Route Highlights

● The gentle hills of north-west Portugal ● Old villages and older ways of life ● Ancient paved footpaths and the Via Romana ● Lindoso Castle above the lake ● The view from the terrace of the Restaurant Abocanhado ● The Pousada Santa Maria do Bouro ● Historic Porto, the Port lodges and the Douro (add-on)

We Recommend

Leave enough time in your holiday to spend a couple of nights in the unique city of Porto, home to the Port lodges along the Douro. This is well done at the beginning of the holiday as public transport works best from here.

Grading

Full days: 11-23 km per day, 3-6¼ hrs walking Using shortening options: 8-17km per day, 2-4 hrs (using lifts) Paths, some rocky/steep, and granite paved tracks. Small sections of this route may affect those with severe acrophobia (Ermida to Brufe). Compass skills essential. Highest point on route: 900m.

Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 652m (420m-1260m) per day. Easy-medium: CUSs 362m (200m - 580m) using shortening options.

GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route and advised for second half of Lindoso to Brufe walk.

Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.

page 2/9 When to go

The best months to walk: April, May, early June, late September, October

Other possible months: Late June, July and early September are possible but accommodation rates increase. It's also very hot.

Great walking in spring (but you may be unlucky with rain). Summer walking (late June and early July and early September) could be hot and are expensive. Fabulous autumn walking accompanied by the smell of grapes... Wednesday start dates in spring and autumn are best to ensure that the restaurant in Brufe is open for dinner (on a Saturday night).

Use the calendar below to see in more detail the best times to walk.

Please note: date ranges shown are for a 'normal' year. While Covid-19 restrictions remain, please contact us to discuss your plans and availability.

Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrive in Soajo

Arrive in Soajo. Freshen up, have a wander around the village, examine your first espigueiros cluster and decide which restaurant to eat in before a good night’s sleep.

Day 2 - A Soajo circuit

Uphill first on good paths, you reach the hamlet of Adrão. Then choose an easy or a challenging route back to Soajo. (Hard: 19 km, 6 hrs, CUSs 860m, shorter/easier circuit easy-medium: 9km, 2½hrs, CUSs 360m)

Day 3 - Soajo to Lindoso

An easy day’s walking along old paths in the river valley before climbing up to the well-preserved castle, lording over the attractive village and its espigueiros, nestling like chicks in its protective embrace. (Medium: 3½ hrs, 11km, CUSs 580m)

Day 4 - Lindoso to Brufe

For the determined walker, the unshortened route is tough but rewarding, up in the wild Serra Amarela, before dropping down steeply to cross the spectacular Ribeira de Carcerelha. Then up to the mountain village of Germil, and up again before heading down through steadily gentler country to your accommodation at Brufe, and an evening meal at Brufe’s renowned Restaurant Abocanhado (not included in holiday price).

From Easy: 2hrs, 5km, CUSs 380m to Hard: 6¼ hrs, 23 km, CUSs 1265m for serial walkers. The second half of the walk (Ermida to Germil) is challenging and we advise using our GPS files (either on your smart phone or a GPS unit) for navigation, depending on path conditions. There are other options available for this day using taxis as necessary.)

page 3/9 Day 5 - Brufe to Campo do Gerês

From lovely Brufe the walk drops down steeply through old terraces to the Roman bridge over the Rio Homem. Then climb up through attractive woodland along a ridge to the village of Campo do Gerês, and your hotel. Extend your walk to the old drowned village of Vilarinho. (Easy-medium: 3½ hrs, 11km, CUSs 420m)

Day 6 - Campo do Gerês to Emaús

Walk along the old Roman road (Braga to Astorga) as it contours around the hillside, gently descending towards Chorense and Emaús. The walking is easy, generally on a level grassy surface, with Roman mileposts along the way. At Emaús, your charming pension and a swim in the garden pool (in season). (Medium: 5 hrs, 21km, CUSs 300m, or easy-medium: 4hrs, 17km, CUSs 230m with lift at start)

Day 7 - Emaús to Santa Maria do Bouro

After a steep climb back to the Roman road, a more gentle climb to the pass at Alto Moraço. From here the walking is now steadily downhill through woods and fields to the former monastery, now Pousada Santa Maria do Bouro, a stylish end to your holiday and with the promise of a swim in the pool and an excellent meal. (Medium: 3 hrs, 11km, CUSs 490m or easy: 2hrs, 8km, CUSs 200m using lift at start)

Travel Information

ARRIVING BY AIR

The best “local” airport is Porto. Intercontinental travellers can land at , then catch the express bus to Arcos de Valdevez and local taxi onwards to first accommodation (necessitates an overnight stay in Lisbon).

Land by: 11:45 for reliable public transport connections to first accommodation (but see Porto starts below).

Return flight earliest: 11:00 for connections from Santa Mario do Bouro

Land by/earliest return flight times not applicable if using a pre-booked taxi from airport to first hotel OR if staying a night in Porto at the start (recommended).

See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.

Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.

For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN

Nearest railway station:

Start: Braga Finish: Braga

page 4/9 Note: There are four direct trains from Lisbon to Braga daily. See www.cp.pt.

Sample rail journey via :

TGV from Paris Montparnasse TGV to , and then the Sud Express overnight train to Coimbra-B, for Intercity to Porto, and a local train to Braga. ~17 hrs.

From Braga: Reverse of outward journey.

We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information. For the Porto to Braga stretch use www.cp.pt.

ARRIVING BY CAR

Leave your car in Soajo, Lindoso or Brufe (depending on start point), on a quiet street near accommodation. Taxi back to car – book locally through hotel c.€90.

Getting to the start of the walk

Best airport is Porto and transfer times and methods are suggested for Porto airport below. For train arrival transfers see below.

Note: if you would like to stay a night or two in Porto, this is best done at the start of the walk, to avail yourself of the excellent express bus service from Porto city to the route itself.

PORTO AIRPORT:

Outward: Best then by bus to Braga (bookable online) followed by pre-bookable taxi to first accommodation on walking route (2-4 hrs depending on flight arrival time) OR pre-bookable taxi transfer from Porto airport to the first accommodation (c. 2 hrs). Return: Local taxi to Braga then bus to airport (total around 2 hrs) or bus/train to Porto city (2 1/2 hrs total) OR pre-bookable taxi transferfrom the final hotel on the walk to Porto airport (1½ hrs) OR to Porto hotel (2 hrs).

Transfers from Braga train station:

Outward: Bus to Arcos de Valdevez then local taxi, OR pre-bookable taxi transfer all the way to first accommodation.

Return: Local taxi (c. €30), or bus to Braga bus station then short taxi.

For all pre-bookable taxi prices, see “Prices”

Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.

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Where You'll Stay

There’s a lovely choice of accommodation offered on this route; from friendly pensions to traditional Portuguese houses (‘like staying in a museum’), through to the amazing pousada (a converted monastery with a grass roof), at the end of the route in Santa Maria do Bouro.

Night 1 & 2 Soajo – Casa do Adro (B&B)

Old converted village house with traditional kitchen.

Night 3 Lindoso – Casa da Fonte de Tornada (B&B)

Stay in one of Bia's comfortable houses in the heart of the village.

Night 4 Brufe – Leiras do Tempo (Casas do Abocanhado) (B&B)

A group of village houses adapted into high quality accommodation with access to swimming pool (in season), esplanade and bar, all set in a stunning upland setting.

page 7/9 Night 5 Campo do Geres – Albergaria Stop (B&B)

Modern family-run inn with good restaurant and pool (in season)

Night 6 Emaus – Quinta do Barrio (B&B)

Restored 18th century farm house with its own chapel and a swimming pool. Twin rooms are subject to a supplement.

Night 7 Santa Maria do Bouro – Pousada Mosteiro de Amares (B&B)

Exquisite conversion of 13th century monastery with fine restaurant and pool. Stays on a Saturday are subject to a supplement.

Porto

There are many lovely places to stay in Porto (and more springing up all the time – see TripAdvisor) and you are welcome to book these yourself (we can tell you where previous clients have stayed and enjoyed).

page 8/9 Prices

Price: £800

Total 7 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 6 picnics and taxi to/from Emaus restaurant, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.

All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.

Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £275 Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £150 Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £25 per person Maximum party size: 8

Add Ons

Extra nights in the Pousada at Santa Maria do Bouro: Contact On Foot - prices vary seasonally. Stays on a Saturday night are subject to a supplement. Nights in Porto hotels and extra nights in other hotels: Contact On Foot Holidays Nights in Porto (central) in self-catering house (sleeps 4). Minimum stay 2 nights. Discount for stays of 6 or 7 nights: From £113 per night (whole house)

Taxi transfers: To Soajo from Porto Airport 2 hrs: From £130 (1-4 people), from Porto hotel 2.5 hrs: From £140 (1-4 people), or from Braga train or bus station: From £70 (1-4 people) Final hotel on the walk to Porto airport 1½ hrs: From £100 (1-4 people), or to Porto centre from £115 (1-4 people) or to Braga: From €31 (book locally the night before and pay driver) Between Porto airport and Porto hotel: From £30 (1-4 people, central Porto) Other local bus/taxi/train as required: Arrange locally

Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £10-£40 (per pack, location dependent)

On Foot Holidays Telephone: +44 (0) 1722 322 652 Griffin House, Malthouse Lane, Email: [email protected] Salisbury, SP2 7RF, United Kingdom

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