THE MAGAZINE OF THE NSW SEA CLUB ISSUE 102 | SEPTEMBER 2016

Circumnavigate - - - - Bruny to Maria and NW Tasmania - Strahan to Cockle Creek KAYAKTOPIA 2 Sat - 15th October

Come down and a huge variety of sea in one day - Talk to industy experts from different brands - Package deals on the day - Full range of accessories and clothing - Also on the beach - Ocean Skis, SUPS , Sit-Ons

15th October, 2016 at JBK Store in Huskisson and on the beach

For NSWSKC Members only - all weekend: - 15% off any paddle in store - 20% off all clothing - 20% off all Northwater gear

NSW Club Inc. CONTENTS PO BOX R1302, ROYAL EXCHANGE NSW 1225 From the President’s Deck 3 The NSWSKC is a voluntary organisation run by members who give their time AGM Report 3 freely to the club. Membership is offered yearly. Please see the website for details From the Editor’s Desk 4 and application. www.nswseakayaker.asn.au Training Coordinators Report 4 PRESIDENT: TRIPS CONVENOR: Ex-president’s last hurrah 5 Megan Pryke Selim Tezcan RnR Update and flashback 6 [email protected] [email protected] Flexibility and 8 VICE PRESIDENT: ROCK ’N ROLL COORDINATOR: Paddling Tribes 10 Tony Murphy Simon Swifte [email protected] [email protected] Car Shuffles 12 SECRETARY/TREASURER: INTERNET COORDINATOR: Club Trips Alison Curtin Stephan Meyn NSW Challenge 13 [email protected] [email protected]

NSW Trip - Terrigal to Norah 14 TRAINING COORDINATOR: EDITOR: NSW Trip - To the Gong 16 Nick Blacklock Ruby Ardren Wedding Cake Island 18 [email protected] [email protected] Private Trips Contributions yes please! Salt the magazine of the NSW Sea Kayak Club is published three to four times a year by the NSW Sea Kayak Club. The NSWSKC welcomes articles relating to sea kayaking for Preservation Island 20 inclusion in the Club’s magazine and website. Publication in the magazine and/or website is at the sole discretion of the editor. All articles submitted are subject to review by the editor who reserves the right SW Tasmania 22 to reject or edit material. Please email contributions as Microsoft Word or text files. Images need to be Tasman Peninsula 27 supplied at the highest possible resolution. All material is copyright. The contributor retains underlying intellectual property rights in the contribution however the contributor grants the club a global perpetual Ulladulla to Gerroa 30 all-media license to publish the contribution in club communications, including in print and digitally. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly forbidden without written permission from the editor, author or Tasmanian Holiday 36 photographer. Advertisers must adhere to legal requirements and undertake to indemnify NSWSKC Turkey Bay 42 against any consequences arising out of their advertisements. For further information contact the editor. Saltiest Article 43 All views expressed in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the NSWSKC. IMPORTANT: Please review the Paddler Safety, Required Equipment, Grading System and Club Bass Strait 44 Calendar sections of the club website.

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT 3 From the NSWSKC AGM Report

The NSW Sea Kayak Club AGM Tasmanian Sea Club. President’s was once again held at the Yarra Many of the members make their Bay Sailing Club in July, following own kayaks, and most carried successful pre-AGM out of fibreglass even on day trips (which Deck Yarra Bay. is possibly also an indication of the more difficult conditions they have The committee sadly farewelled MEGAN PRYKE to deal with). They are big fans of members who had made significant sailing, typically carrying two sails, contributions to the club over the one a main sail and one a storm sail last few years including: Campbell (smaller). The other difference is the Tiley, Stuart Trueman, Steve mast is inserted in a vertical tube Hitchcock, Shaan Gresser, and directly in front of the cockpit and David Linco. between their legs. Most of the new committee had Rae shared photos from her trip been nominated prior to the AGM, to Freycinet where she had calm but the new president was still seas. She then talked about her uncertain. Fortunately after being trip to the Hunter Group, where nominated by John Piotrowski, she tackled tides, the ‘Dangerous Megan Pryke agreed to take on the Banks’, mutton bird colonies, and president’s role to cheers from the sea eagles. During this trip she members. Her dedication to the club mulled over whether or not to tackle has been amply demonstrated by the Western Bass Strait crossing. her commitment to running trips for Even the group Rae was paddling members, so we look forward to her with didn’t know what she was I was recently on a solo trip. Being term as president. considering until she had made able to achieve this reflects how the decision to head north, as much I’ve learnt over time from the The entire committee didn’t retire at once, with Tony Murphy, she wanted to avoid the external generous sea kayaking community pressures of media, photos and that is our club. Due to conspiring Alison Curtin and Stephan Meyn charities etc. circumstances, I could not attend continuing in their roles. In addition the first committee meeting. Thank to Megan (who has been on the Rae added a few extra tidbits you to Tony Murphy for conducting committee before), others new to build on her Salt 101 article, this committee meeting. At the time, to the committee include Nick such as finding out on reaching I was my sea kayak, prepared to Blacklock for training, Selim Tezcan Apollo Bay that her had been bunker down for a weather change. for trips, Ruby Ardren as editor, seriously damaged in her launch and Simon Swifte as Rock ‘n’ Roll from – serious enough With a mix of experience and fresh coordinator. that if she’d seen it she may have ideas, I am certain the current decided not to continue. committee will function well. To The presentation of the evening the previous committee members, was from Rae Duffy, who shared The presentation was enjoyed by thank you for leaving the club in photos and stories from her recent all, and ended a wonderfully social good shape. trips around Tasmania with the day and evening.

Cover photo: Heading out of Macquarie Harbour in SW Tasmania (Shaan Gresser, article by Matt Bezzina page 22); Right: Tim Pearse on Sydney Harbour (Rob Mercer)

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 4 Training Coordinator 2014-16

STUART TRUEMAN

This takes considerable effort and commitment from many involved: ••The two prospective instructors From the have to advertise their assessment/training day on the club website training calendar and Editor’s process members who wish to The NSWSKC is aligned with attend training. the Australian Canoeing Award ••Instructors prepare and present Desk Scheme. on various themes to other NSWSKC members are taken on instructors and prospective RUBY ARDREN trips by those who have attained instructors. Sea Leader and Sea Guide awards. ••Two groups of members have to I love everything about the Salt register and attend training. These Leaders and Guides can magazine. I love reading it, I love ••Other members working towards writing for it, and I love taking tailor trips based on the Skills Awards gained by the participants. the Instructor awards attend as photos with Salt in mind, knowing assistants and to gain experience. that there’s a chance they’ll get NSWSKC members gain these ••Assessors and prospective published. I love that the members awards through members with assessors attend the two days. of NSWSKC are so ready to Instructor awards. volunteer articles and photos, and ••Accommodation is organised and All these awards are presented by I hope that continues under my funded by the NSWSKC. qualified Assessors. editorship. The weekend coincided with one Without members who are able and I’ve had a great year laying out the of Sydney’s most intense weather committed to gaining these awards, magazine under Steve’s excellent events of the year. One hundred the club could not offer much in the guidance, learning the ropes and kilometre winds, huge surf (swell way of practical sea kayaking. what works for the magazine. of 12 metres was recorded) and There is a continuous flow of heavy rain, all represented in While I’m editor, I will prepare a members through the club and the news through the image of a guide to submitting articles that there is a need to maintain the flow row of Northern Beaches houses will make sure we get the best of active members with AC Awards. precariously leaning into the sea. out of your article. I’d also like to encourage our writers out there The Training Coordinator position Despite days of dire forecasts that want to extend themselves develops opportunities for everybody turned up and we beyond trip reports. I’d like to see NSWSKC members to go up the managed to get an assessment articles that talk about the history of award scheme by encouraging done on the Saturday. Sunday was kayaking or places we kayak to, or guides, instructors, assessors and cancelled when a ‘Storm Warning’ geography, or nature notes, and I’ll interested members into action. was issued for enclosed waters! always welcome technical articles It’s a process that is rewarding for The weekend was a showpiece of as well. all involved, including the Training preparation and commitment by I’m very happy to take on the job of Coordinator. NSWSKC members for the benefit editor and I hope I can continue to of NSWSKC members. For me, the highlight of my two provide you with a magazine that years as Training Coordinator you look forward to receiving. culminated at a weekend in June, Deadline to submit articles for which was organised to assess two December Salt - 31 October 2016. members as Sea Instructors.

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT 5

Last word from the Ex‑President

CAMPBELL TILEY Membership over the medium term have occasionally had some robust has been in the 200-250 range but discussions, the atmosphere has rose to a high point of just over 300, always been positive, constructive After six years on the Committee 3-4 years ago and is now just above and directed where it should be, and three years as President I am 240. A few more members would at fostering sea kayaking. I would pleased to report that the Club is probably help us to attract optimum like to formally thank everyone for solvent, stable and intact. registration numbers for special their contributions especially, of events like the navigation weekend, course, the current committee and Over the past two years, under the nav challenge or rock n roll. to thank those members who have Stu’s direction, we have come a put up their hands for the incoming long way to rebuild the guide and Stephan has been progressively committee. instructor ranks and I expect that updating the website with the as we move into spring the trips aim of improving the ability for I would like to thank all of the calendar will reflect the recent members to blog trip reports and, membership for their support and increase in leaders and instructors. in particular, images and also to assistance and I look forward to Thanks to Stu and Adrian in informally communicate. Hopefully catching up on the water. particular and for everyone who has we will be able to see some visible improvements in these areas before Top to bottom: Campbell will miss the put the time and effort into gaining adulation; and the brushes with royalty (with too long. these qualifications. PC); Campbell rejuvinates on the Nadgee I am pleased to have located the coast after the stresses of presidency Australian Canoeing Awards full set of Club magazines and that presented by NSWSKC 2016 they are progressively being loaded onto the website. The aim is to keep Jan 2016 this and the online spreadsheet of contents up to date. There are Nerissa Worwood - Sea Skills 3 some fantastic articles buried in the John Atkins - Sea Skills 3 archives, well worth exploring. Martin Vanderpoel - Sea Skills 3 I should publicly acknowledge my May 2016 failure to meet the benchmarks set for me by the Club minstrel Megan Pryke - Sea Instructor Mark Sundin – notably I have failed to introduce a Club song and Caoimhin Ardren - Sea Instructor I never got around to changing June 2016 the President to Commodore – thankfully no-one else listens to Campbell Tiley - Sea Instructor Mark either unless he is holding a Harry Havu - Assessor ukulele. Aug 2016 Working with all of the committee members has been a pleasure Matt Bezzina - Sea Instructor throughout my term. While we

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 6

R’n’R 2017 Above: An easy landing at Corrigans Beach, Batemans Bay (Image - Caoimhin Ardren) The next Rock ‘n’ Roll will be held Batemans Bay is an ideal location over the extended weekend of for this event due to its wide range sites it is advised that they be 10 – 13 March 2017 on our beautiful of paddling conditions that suit all booked sooner rather than later, south coast at Batemans Bay. This levels. as this weekend is also a long weekend provides club members The event will be held at Batemans weekend for residents of the ACT. with the opportunity to meet like- Bay Beachside Resort (Big 4 As always we will be looking for minded people, experience a variety Caravan Park) at Corrigans Beach; volunteers to help with tasks such of great paddling destinations and giving easy access to paddling in as registrations, cooking the BBQ enhance their paddling skills via the open sea, around the bay or up and general organising. the Clyde River. the free training courses. We will More details about the 2017 RnR hopefully have a few equipment Registration for the 2017 RnR will will be published in the next issue of suppliers on hand to show and open mid January 2017. For those Salt due out towards the end of the demonstrate their wares. wanting cabins and powered camp year. R’n’R 2016 flashback Jimmy’s Beach - where heaven & sea meet

HILDE MAILEN DOMAAS

Hei (= hi), I’m Hilde from Norway kayak gear for the upcoming Rock surrounded by picturesque green and I have been a member of the ‘n’ Roll event - what luck! mountain tops. Saturday morning NSW Sea Kayak Club since March dawned with blue sky and waking The tent was set up on the 2015. I joined the Rock ‘n’ Roll up (unwillingly) to the distinct sound sheltered Holiday Park campsite at Currarong, meeting the club of the local birds. on Friday afternoon and lots of members for the first time. I have members from the club were After breakfast we gathered been enjoying the milder climate in enjoying the fish and chips at the together for the weather and coming from one of the Marquee area. Sharon and Mark conditions briefing before the colder corners of the world, and am had set up their stand, and I highly announcement of the many daily happy to catch any opportunity to appreciated being able to buy fresh trips - and there were quite a few leave my ‘student life’ in Sydney for kayak gear for the season. on the agenda. Among the many a paddle. I was also happy to be trips on the program was the trip able to travel down to Hawk’s Nest The location was fantastic, a to Broughton Island for the most with some help from a member who beautiful part of the coastline with adventurous paddlers and was quite supported me with camping and white and long sandy beaches popular. There was also an invite to

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT 7 a ‘coffee cruise’ which I thought was Sail away Midway we sat down for lunch quite a charming brand for a kayak and rested and aimed for the town The wind was already starting to trip. The training skills program further up the Myall River. rough up on our return, blowing ranged from basic skills, capsize straight into our faces at 15-20 km/h Avoiding the fast we paddled trouble-shooting skills, along with and there was no use holding your some more advanced skills training. along the mangroves. When cap straight on the head. After the crossing over to the ‘other side’ Shelly Beach Trip crossing over the water we could we had to find the right moment. catch some surf from behind and After some consideration I joined The area was not overcrowded so when Neville, a gentleman in our the group that aimed for a lunch there was not really a ‘highway’ group offered me his boat to try his and a swim at Shelly Beach: to encounter, but to be on the sail I was really excited because #summer#paddling#sunshine is just safe side we paddled as fast as that was my first time doing kayak too tempting for a Norwegian. There we could. Michael and Chloe had sailing (it’s not so common in my was a short walk with the ‘kayak planned to buy a map in the town on wheels’ to Jimmy’s Beach to country). and when we almost reached meet up with a small group of three After some practice and guiding the bridge we saw that we were woman and four men, including our I was able to manoeuvre the sail running late and had to make a fast trip leader Gary. The nice summer and speed up with the wind, and return because the Beach Marshall temperature invited me to take a then I was thinking about the Irish expected us back at the beach at short ‘bath’ before we entered the folk singer Enya and her song ‘sail 2pm. That was a good decision flat crystal clear waters with our away, sail away’, so it made sense since we had to paddle towards kayaks. I was told that white sharks at that moment to sing the song. the strong upcoming wind, which have been observed in Hunter Tea Gardens delayed the paddle half an hour. waters and for a second some Our trio was quite satisfied and pictures from the film ‘Jaws’ flashed The weather again didn’t disappoint thrilled to sign in on time. into my mind. Well, my boat is four on Sunday and I thought it was metres long, so if I meet a shark it great for exploring by kayak up to Thanks to David Linco for a really has to be big, but hopefully the Tea Gardens area with such a fantastic, organised Rock ‘n’ Roll, they prefer feeding on baitfish and variety of waterways. and to the devoted trip leaders: not a scared paddler. We were one of them Gary who drove down In planning for the trip I came guided towards Shelly Beach where all the way from Queensland to across some useful navigation tips we stayed for couple of hours, with participate in the Saturday paddle from a local kayak member useful time for a swim, enjoying a lunch and left early on Sunday morning. for a safe paddle. Michael and his and summer life. Many thanks to the generous daughter Chloe joined me, with a ‘neighbourhood’ offering cold map on the kayak deck ready to drinks. My memories from the ”Tea experience the tranquillity of the Left to right: Preparing to set off for Gardens” will forever stay with me. Shelly Beach (Image: Hilde); and Chloe mangroves. We saw dolphins, paddling on the Myall River (Image: seagulls and many fishermen. Tusen takk. Michael)

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 8 Flexibility and Kayaking

CATH NOLAN

Flexibility is important in kayaking. implicated in musculoskeletal pain tense. Nerves supplying the muscle Not only does it allow for better boat and are prone to strains. continue to provide a low level control and efficiency on the water Increases efficiency discharge and the muscle cannot but also reduces your risk of injury. fully relax so the resting length is So what is flexibility? altered. This in turn limits the full range of movement of the joint the Flexibility is defined as the range of muscle is attached to. motion (ROM) of your joints or the Stretch reflex – As a muscle ability of your joints to move through is rapidly stretched there is different planes. It also refers to the an automatic neuromuscular mobility of your muscles. response, the ‘stretch reflex’ that All skeletal muscles have a resting limits overstretching to prevent length. When our muscles are injury. Where the length tension stretched to the ideal length, it can relationship of a muscle is reduced, maximize muscular contraction. this reflex can start earlier, limiting If the resting length is shorter or joint range of motion. longer, contraction is compromised. Changes in muscle and connective All muscles have an optimal length tissue - As we age, muscle fibres tension relationship which in turn are gradually replaced with fibrous affects joint range of motion. Why is connective tissue, which is less flexibility important in kayaking? elastic. It increases stiffness of the Improves skill level joint, limiting joint range of motion, particularly in highly mobile joints In kayaking good muscle and such as the shoulder and hips. joint flexibility allows your joints to accommodate all the different Bony changes - Bony changes in angles required for good boat the joints due to aging or injury can control (including rolling). For affect how the surfaces of the joints example, good hip flexibility assists line up, decreasing flexibility and torso rotation in forward stroke, and decreasing joint range of motion. is important for effective edging and When muscle length and muscle Poor posture - Poor posture can rolling. contraction is optimised, you reduce the optimum length tension Decreases risk of injury can obtain maximum power and relationship of skeletal muscle leading to stiffness in the joints, as Optimum length tension efficiency during your paddle they are prevented from moving relationships of muscles and strokes, allowing for an increase through their full ROM. Try this joints reduce your risk of injury, in speed, less fatigue over longer activity. Sit in a slumped position particularly muscle tears or sprains. distances and overall enhancing and raise your arms up over your There are several groups of your enjoyment on the water. head. Now sit on your sit bones, muscles in the body that show a What limits flexibility? stack your spine up long and now tendency towards tightness and There a number of factors that raise your arms up over head. Do also being over active in many contribute to limited flexibility. These you notice the difference in your movements, including kayaking. include: arm range of motion? These include the hamstrings, calf muscles and some of the back High muscle tone – This occurs Previous injuries - Injuries to muscles. These muscles are often when the muscle is overworked or muscles and connective tissue can

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT 9 lead to a thickening, or fibrosing of position for 20-30 seconds. It is To optimise the flexibility of your the soft tissue. Fibrous tissue is less ideal for stretching connective muscles and joint ROM in kayaking, elastic and can lead to decreased tissue and helps lengthen a muscle. it is important to do all three types resting length of the muscle and It is best to be used as a cool down of stretching. I would recommend reduced ROM in the affected joint. after an activity. An example is a dynamic stretching prior to hopping What can be done to improve hamstring stretch after kayaking. in your kayak, static stretching after and then either doing a session of flexibility? Proprioceptive neuromuscular yoga or pilates once a week…or facilitation (PNF) The good news despite both making time for a good PNF stretch physiological and other factors, is program once a week to keep you you can improve muscle flexibility supple. and joint range of motion through And finally, here are a few tips to stretching. But what type of remember when stretching: stretching is best? ••Always warm up before Stretching can be grouped into stretching. Stretching when your three key types and all of these are muscles are cold could lead to important in keeping your muscles injuries. and joints at an optimum for either a •Stretch to the point where you feel day paddle or an expedition. • some mild tension. You should Dynamic stretching – is slow not feel pain. If you do, stop and controlled movement which helps release the stretch. Try again in the muscles to stretch through their a shorter range, build up to the optimal length and take the joint increased range. through a full range of motion prior Here’s to happy and pain free to doing an activity. It targets the paddling! most intensely used muscles in the activity, increasing their elasticity and as a result reducing injury risk PNF is a type of stretching that due to muscle sprain/strain. An promotes elongation of muscle example would be standing hip tissue. It aims to optimise the rotations. neuromuscular ‘stretch reflex’ response of the body. It involves Static stretching – is where a stretching a muscle passively to its muscle is held in a lengthened end of range, then either holding or contracting the muscle for six seconds, releasing and then stretching the muscle further to a new range and repeating 3-4 times. Yoga and pilates exercises are a form of PNF stretching.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 10 Paddling Tribes

VINCENT WEAFER

First off, the good news. Paddle sports are growing … huzzah! In my biased perception (always admit to bias early in a written piece and it makes your position unassailable) paddling is, where bicycling was, a few years back – surging and splintering into various new tribes.

The bash ‘em against ‘whatever takes their fancy’ tribe in hammers and the like (hello Fer and Wade). The ‘diametrically opposed to the bashers’ gear freak tribe. They are often seen at paddle gear expos many days The salt encrusted old men/women tribe before any queues form, or are sometimes spotted darting of the sea who gaze through their cataracts around shipping containers being lowered onto docks, somewhere over the horizon to some reef/island/ crammed with the latest and greatest ‘must have’ boats, . iceberg only they can see. These folk are often They have an insatiable craving for the very latest ‘stolen found writing/editing in various paddling journals from NASA’ space age ‘weight saving’ materials – these folk or lurking around water sport related forums. are rarely seen too close to the corrosive effects of salt water, and certainly not anywhere near hard abrasive surfaces such as rocks. They tend to wear an alluring combination of dark Club members – in the words of Groucho – I glasses (even in low light conditions), subtle scents and skinny don’t want to be a member of any club that will black threads, especially if has a discrete (but not too discrete) have me as a member. label such as Prada or Calvin Klein; drive black vehicles of west European marques; and are sometimes seen preening in upmarket waterfront boutiques (5 star and/or 3 chef hats would you mind) establishments, smugly quaffing designer beer or sipping white wine from the same provenance as their vehicle.

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT 11

The more modest and quietly spoken tribe. The ‘skinny stick’ rolling folk ‘at peace’ in their ‘skin on frame’ qajaqs who sprinkle their conversations with unpronounceable unspellable terms and spend inordinate amounts of time perfecting roll number 35 – paatip kallua tuermillugu The SUP tribe (quasi-Corona crowd and rarely illuinnarmik (roll with end of paddle in armpit) whilst secretly seen in ). Lusting after long expensive checking out holiday brochures north of the arctic circle. carbon paddles and wearing not enough sun protection in their quest for the ageless blond Newbies/neophtyes ‘yet tanned look. There is a WTF mutant hybrid of to form’ tribe allegiance. doing ‘yoga on a SUP’ in case you didn’t know. Is there any polite term for someone who has tuned enough with the cosmos to assimilate into one of the above tribes or create their own? Go for it! Find a mentor (preferably not one trying to sell you stuff), have fun. I was only kidding about clubs - Groucho quote again - “He may look like an idiot and talk like an idiot but don’t let that fool you. He really is an idiot.” Unless you have an insanely valid reason, you are an idiot if you don’t join a club. Check out the ‘Four Stages of Competency’ (in your favoured internet search engine, on a computer, which is turned on, has internet access…etc). Yes, I was once a The tribe who whilst ‘not frothing blissfully unaware noob, in stage one, before I somehow over river heights’ and laughing at ‘moving caught that tiny chink of light that was the glimmerings of undercuts’ as well as in the face of danger, scoff stage 2… and joined a club. at Grade 5’s and did you get that on the GoPro? Then there’s the squirt boats – remember to breathe.

Apologies. If I have not offended you by somehow not including you in one of the above tribes (skeg vs rudder, west vs east, south vs north, plastic vs composite, QLD vs WA vs NT vs NSW vs SA vs Vic vs Tas vs NZ vs NG vs Ca, northern hemisphere vs southern hemisphere, agnostics vs atheists) or totally omitting your tribe. You have every right to reply in an angry letter/article/blog/ opinion piece in whatever forum takes your fancy. Thanks to all of you that make paddling so much more than a sport. The Hobie loving fish yakker tribe who fish with lots of To close with a quote (yes, me part of that tribe): gear.So long and thanks for all the fish. “Believe me, my young friend, there is The ‘I got it cheap on Ebay/Big W’ tribe who somehow nothing - absolutely nothing - half so attach their ‘watercraft’ to their vehicle’s roof racks, hoping much worth doing as simply messing they remembered to pack the PFD whilst wondering why about in boats.” their paddle blades are twisted and watching their ‘sit on top’ warping before they have even christened the damn thing. Kenneth Grahame (The Wind in the Willows).

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 12

Car Shuffles

MEGAN PRYKE

The reward of paddling downwind •• Have a boat minder or minders, •• Rinse off your kayak before often makes a car shuffle a i.e. people to be watchdog over placing it on someone else’s car. necessary evil and most times it is a the kayaks as cars are being If it is your car and you rinse your pleasant coastal drive. The memory shifted. Often these people have own kayak it is best to carry some of car shuffles soon fades into the arrived with others in a car. spare water and an old towel to background when thinking of past •• Carry with you in your sea kayak lend to others. great trips. Sharon’s Betteridges the dry clothes and gear for the •• If your car is not at the end of the recent report of a 780km bitumen end of the day. The advantages trip and you can manage the extra and dirt road car shuffle for a 200km are: weight in your sea kayak, put your expedition trip perhaps puts shorter •• You have clothes with you if you wet gear into your kayak at the car shuffles into perspective even need to go back or stop part way. end of the trip. Seal it with your more. •• You know where your gear is. spray skirt or cockpit cover. Split Some ideas for managing car paddles will often fit into cockpits. •• You don’t end up sitting salty, wet shuffles: and sandy in someone else’s car. •• Know the driving route. Believe •Everyone should contribute • •• You can dry off while waiting for a me there are a lot of tricky roads evenly if possible. car to return. and headlands along the coast! I • Having said that, occasionally have found the Google Maps app • •• Carry a set of kayak tie down on my smart phone to be great at locals may have more time or may straps in your kayak. The offer to do more, or there may alternative is to confirm that there finding the best way with a proper be restrictions on people’s time is a set for each set of cradles hands free mount. that could be catered for without in the respective cars, however •• If you can, do most of the shuffling inconveniencing others. with the rush in the morning to get at the start of the paddle. The •• Cars equipped to carry more ready, confirming this could be result can be more opportunity kayaks than one are great. Three easily overlooked so best to be for a social chat at the end of the is better than two kayaks. self-sufficient. paddling day.

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT Club Trips 13 The Newcastle, Sydney, Wollongong (a.k.a “NSW”) Coastal Sea Kayak Challenge

Done and Dusted! MEGAN PRYKE

The goal has been achieved! Thanks for the many trip leaders who helped with the Challenge: Fernando Charnis, Adrian Clayton, Megan Pryke, Matt Bezzina, Campbell Tiley, Caoimhin Ardren, Rae Duffy, Tony Murphy, Mark Alchin and Nicholas Gill. All up 43 different club members participated, doing a combined distance of 2750 km. The distance of paddling was 260km, including non-coastal distance needed for access. Those completing the maximum distance were Deb Cuneen, Steve Hitchcock, Mark Clarkson and Bruce Lew. These four paddlers got in early; Adrian’s two-day trip helped them get an edge that they then maintained. No one actually did all the paddles, though some filled in sections they had not previously paddled. There are still sections of this coast I have not done. It is hard to say what was the most challenging paddle, though the Norah Head to Swansea section followed the next day by Swansea to Newcastle were the two longest legs, being 34 and 33 km respectively. The swell was large, so close in conditions were rough. Well done to Adrian for leading this paddle, which had possibly the most complex car shuffle of all the trips. The final paddle was deliberately one of the shortest to allow time for a lunch celebration – thank you to Nicholas Gill for opening up his home. Members have asked me what next? Although they are not that bad, my reply has been that whatever it would be, it would not involve another car shuffle!

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 14 Club Trips 15

NSW Coastal Sea Challenge Terrigal to Norah Head

SELIM TEZCAN

Trip Leader: Tony Murphy assisted by Megan Pryke , Mark Alchin. And Nick Blacklock as a Grasshopper Slow Group: Mark Alchin, Megan Pryke, Selim Tezcan, Deb Cunneen, Cath Nolan, Joanne Alchin, Geoff Dauncey Fast Group: Tony Murphy, Brian Burke, Steve Hitchcock, Michael Taylor, Nick Blacklock, Paul Williams, Wendy Marceau, Alison Curtin

“Meet at 8 am at Norah Head”. It was just before 8 am and it was one another I exclaimed “Ladies in That was the message from Tony a beautiful morning at Norah Head. one group and men in the other”. to those who took part in the car Seas seemed to be calm. Swell That was laughed off quickly and shuffle. Sharing the car shuffle looked a decent size. Forecast for Tony proposed having a ‘fast’ and with Tony (the trip leader) made the day was seas under a metre a ‘slow’ group and asked who me experience some of the great with a 2.5m southerly swell. Wind wanted to be in the ‘fast’ group. challenges of organising a car forecast was SSE up to 15 knots. Most men put their hands up so shuffle. Thinking how difficult a Although there was some concern quickly that it made me think this task this is for our trip leaders led about landing at Toowoon Bay was rehearsed the day before. I me to have an idea for a phone for our lunch break, the day was couldn’t make a snap decision, as app, which I think has a worldwide looking good. We left a set of cars I was trying to compare my speed market. The idea is everyone runs at Norah Head, with the mostly to those who put their hands up. this app on their phones and puts southerly winds meaning we would Other than Alison and Wendy (in in their location, how many people start our trip from Terrigal. the fast group) I was (with Mark and kayaks they can carry, and their Terrigal looked vibrant and alive and Geoff) in with the ladies in the destination. The rest is done by with so many people surfing, ‘slow’ group. My ego was severely the app. Please don’t tell my idea swimming and diving at the beach. damaged. Not because I was with to anyone. I am hoping to join the There were 15 of us. Tony thought the ladies (ladies you are beautiful) world’s richest people by resolving it would be difficult to manage a but I was in the ‘slow’ group. Yeah this greatest puzzle of our time group of 15, so split the group into right Tony, OK, we may not be for the massive market of outdoor two. There was a higher number fast but does that mean we are enthusiasts. of female participants on this trip slow? Why couldn’t you name us Below: Brian Burke and Wendy than any other and since enough the ‘standard group’? I needed Marceau launch at Terrigal ladies were standing in line with to recover from this damage so I (Images - Steve Hitchcock)

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Bay with his fast group. He would report back the conditions to Mark over VHS. Although Toowoon Bay is a protected bay in many ways, the S/SE swell was rounding in and perhaps required a surf landing. Our nature loving group was content to have a break on the water. We didn’t wait for a report from Tony and continued our journey to Norah Head without a landing at Toowoon Bay. As we continued our journey we started to see the famous lighthouse on the horizon at Norah Head. Although it looked a little smaller than an average man at Above: Steve paddling uphill “no first, it started to grow slowly into a hands”! (Image - Nick Blacklock) but contrary to the forecast the more recognisable shape and soon swell was more from the East. We it became the measure for how were unable to get a close look at close we were to our destination. the shore. The next 10kms was We had hoped to see some whales rationalised my position with the spent chatting and having fun and but had no luck. A flying fish was the following statements in my head. games naming where we were on only wildlife on display for me. Those in the fast group didn’t the water. We discussed whether enjoy their surroundings. They just Avoca was north or south of Terrigal Seeing the Norah Head exposed wanted to go from A to B. They had and were we looking at Forester rock from a distance took me by no appreciation for nature. They Beach? As Mark Alchin had the surprise. I forgot all about it during were fitness paddlers. They were map and GPS on his deck I thought our journey. I have visited this rock water rats. They were so many he was quite entertained with our before by launching from Norah other names. I felt a little better after ‘guesses’. Soon the fast group Head. As there was a sizeable swell and the sets were long reaching this and soon we were getting ready started to fade into the horizon. “OK to shore side we decided to go to go on the water. guys” I thought, “- no problems. You around it from the eastern side. just go ahead and get your coffee Although the sea state was glassy, Being close to this exposed rock is fix”. Bloody addicts! swell was creating a good set difficult to describe. Passing swell of waves. We had to be careful Swell on a calm sea is very sets covered it completely. When getting out of the normally protected mesmerising. Swell was building the water retracted away from it, Terrigal, as some sets were from the right hand side of us. the exposed rock emerged like a reaching all the way in. The fast As it approached, it raised into sculpture and giving us a glimpse group got on to the water first. More a beautifully formed mountain. It of the wilderness that exists in this damage to my ego! They were first had a very clean, vertical smooth untouched underwater world. I because they could handle the elevation and formed a razor sharp watched the waves slam the rock conditions better than my group. crest. As it passed to shore side of with all their force and the water They were to lead us out of the bay. us, silvery bright morning sunlight exploded up in the air like a water Thanks a lot you heroes! ☹ Never hit the back of the wave and with bomb and yet the rock emerged out mind - soon we were all on the the small glassy wobbles at its of it totally unmoved. With so much water. Fifteen colourful sea kayaks slopes it made the wave shimmer water churning around us I was left decorated the Terrigal beach like like a diamond. This clean well in awe watching this power play water lilies in Monet’s paintings and defined form, that regular passing between the water and the rock. I this beautiful scene healed some movement, that glassy shimmering could stay there and watch it forever of the damages to my ego and we of water soon made me enter into but I needed to keep up, this was no were off north to our midway stop, those blissful moments. I was in the place for popcorn. Toowoon Bay. water with diamonds. My group gathered once again The stretch of coastline between When we reached to Toowoon Bay before we made our plan to enter Terrigal and Toowoon Bay we gathered together on the water. to Norah Head. Equipped with GPS presented some beautiful shoreline Tony had already left for Toowoon way points and maps Mark took

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us north of Norah Head before we getting into the bay at Norah Head no member of NSWSKC will ever made a turn south into the bay. As got me thinking about this whole claim themselves to be a hero, we rounded in, we could now see trip with this fast and slow group hence the truth will never be known the waves rolling into the bay. Some in mind. Could it be possible that but at least a good lesson can be sets were a good size and had quite the fast group went first to check rehearsed here: never judge a a reach. At this point I could not out the conditions for suitability paddler before the trip ends. see the fast group on the horizon. for my group at Toowoon Bay? I asked Mark if Tony had reported Contrary to my thoughts, could Thank you Tony Murphy for putting back from Toowoon Bay. Mark these people be the heroes, not yourself under such stress to shuffle said yes. But they weren’t here the speed freaks, sacrificing their us around and for leading the trip, yet. So we were technically faster experience of nature for the safety thank you Megan Pryke, thank you than the FAST group! Somehow of others? This thought however Mark Alchin and thank you fast I didn’t feel comfortable with this didn’t last a second before I went group, you were good sports and conclusion. Seeing the challenges naahhhh. Even if it is true perhaps you were fast but we came first ☺.

Hands up at the finish (Image - Selim Tezcan)

NSW Coastal Sea Challenge Austinmer to Wollongong

GREG PRUTEJ IMAGES BY NICK BLACKLOCK

I had only completed one previous Thanks to Megan Pryke’s chapter of the Newcastle – Sydney organisational skills and Nick Gill’s – Wollongong challenge (from local knowledge, the car shuffle Kurnell to Cronulla on 6 December to Wollongong Harbour was 2015). But the prospect of sharing somehow pulled off without too in the glory of completing the much complication and the group challenge with the club – and of 14 gathered at Austinmer beach the club’s offer to put on a free in good time. We started out in celebratory lunch at the end – saw fairly calm, overcast and benign me up at 4 am to make the trip from conditions. Rhys managed to turn Canberra up the Hume Highway the easy entry into a dramatic and over Macquarie Pass to join the challenge, as he chose to try team at Austinmer for the final leg catching a few waves. The local into Wollongong. break came up pretty sharply over a reef to the southern side of the beach. One of the waves was a Left: Megan (the NSW Challenge bit of a monster and had Rhys in coordinator) providing a briefing before a massive endo, then out of his the final leg of the Challenge boat and back on the beach again

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Front row: Nick Gill, Alison Curtin, Rhys Ward

while the rest of the group was lot of memories that everyone had Wollongong passed by without mustering offshore. As Megan enjoyed partaking of in different incident. Clearly a gesture to mark debated whether or not this had to measures. While Megan herself the club’s accomplishment was in count as only the second wet exit tried to give the credit to good luck order, but the water seemed a little for the entire NSW Challenge, Rhys with the weather (only one of the too cold for a swim – plus it was may have been heard to blame his planned legs had been postponed probably full of fuel. But on behalf new boat for the mishap and/or the due to the elements) everyone else of everyone Matt bravely leapt off fact that he had been out until the realised that it had been a major one of the old stone structures in planning effort and a key contributor early hours the previous night. In the harbour to make a celebratory to the club’s success over the year. any case we were still able to set off splash. Nick kindly offered to open without too much delay. About half way from Austinmer to up his home for the club lunch at To be honest the 18 km trip was Wollongong a reef extends out from the end, and we all gathered there fairly uneventful from a paddling Bellambi Point, and the group had to enjoy the rest of the afternoon. perspective. Whatever little to paddle about a kilometre out to Megan gave a nice speech and zephyr arose came over our left sea to get around it. The swell rose some prizes were donated by shoulders as we paddled south fairly sharply around the edges of Expedition Kayaks for the club the reef, so most people took a and was not enough to create members who had participated the wide berth. Jeff went a little closer any kind of sea that would test most in the Challenge. You’ll know than most, and as a 2.5 metre wave our skills. It was what I would call the winners when you see them a pleasant day on the water. The reared up and broke in front of him, it was looking like a rescue could on the water – they’ll be the ones mood was friendly and relaxed wearing the hot pink paddling tops. and little pods of paddlers took be on the cards. However, as the the opportunity to catch up with whitewash passed by Jeff remained Here’s hoping the NSW Challenge each other as we cruised along. upright in his boat, as calm and will be attempted by the club again composed as if he’d watched it on Megan’s achievement of putting in the future. Many thanks to Megan TV. A nice brace indeed - Cecilia together 14 club paddles over a and the other instructors and guides was very impressed! year or so to cover the coast from for creating this great highlight of Newcastle to Wollongong created a The remainder of the trip into the club calendar.

Left to right: A celebratory jump at Wollongong; Steve Hitchcock and Deb Cunneen are rewarded for completing the longest distances over the NSW Challenge.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 18 Club Trips 19 Wedding CAKE Island…and cake?

RHYS WARD

Having made a personal record that half the group are no shows time with my exit (10 minutes from due to colds, flu, gastro etc. A group waking up to leaving. I am not a of five is all that is left (Caoimhin morning person.), I was smugly Ardren, Ruby Ardren [nee Gamble], CAKE! Did I just see free cake? thinking to myself what a great idea Adrian Clayton, Darren Friend and it was put my kayak on my car the myself). I start getting my gear I hadn’t been on the club website for night before rather than having ready and of course I have left the a while so I thought I would quickly to load up in the morning. Five battery for my bilge pump at home. see if anything was happening minutes down the road that smug How can my day get any better? when the News Flash section Lucky for me Caoimhin comes to caught my eye. This definitely feeling was erased when I realised the rescue with a spare battery. sounded like my sort of trip, so I with horror that I had not tied my We launch and start paddling out decided to register straight away. kayak down and any sudden stop was going send my carbon kevlar of the bay, it’s still raining but at Fill in my registration details and least we have a surprisingly warm nothing happens, screen frozen. beauty hurtling down my bonnet to smash into a thousand pieces on morning with light winds. As we Try again, nothing happens, screen round the headland and head north frozen. Another two attempts still the road or worse yet, impale the car in front of me. Very gently I pull there is a 1m south-westerly swell no luck. I decide to SMS Caoimhin rebounding off the cliffs and making to let him know I tried to register over, get out my car in the pouring rain and rectify the situation. for a fun bouncy ride. Over the next four times without success and to 500m the rain stops and the sun leave a space on the list for me. Soaking wet and grumbling to starts shining. This day is definitely Message I receive back “Website myself I get back in the car and getting better. I suddenly have has crashed. Stephan is trying to restart the long journey to Malabar the realisation that in our group fix it. Seems it is your fault”. (Oops when I realise that in my rush to there is not a single Mirage sea sorry Stephan) leave I’d forgotten to make any kayak and Nadgees make up the So on the Sunday morning I wake lunch. Excellent, how good is my majority (Adrian-Nadgee Expedition, up late; I forgot to set my alarm morning going? A quick stop at a Caoimhin-Nadgee Solo and Ruby- the night before. I’ve woken up to supermarket, some muesli bars and Nadgee Bombora), surely this is a find overnight I’ve caught a cold a banana and I’m on my way again. club first. To my surprise I actually arrive at and feel terrible. Great! No time for Before we know it Wedding Cake Long Bay on time. breakfast, just a quick shower, a Island is before us. We stop and traveller coffee and I’m out the door. On arrival I’m greeted with the news Adrian takes some photos of the

Left to right: Ships of the desert on Bondi Beach; Adrian enjoying his cake and eating it at Gordon’s Bay. Opposite: Mr and Mrs Ardren at Wedding Cake Island.

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newly married couple with the ugly so we keep paddling. Clovelly my left. A hard bottom turn to my left waves crashing onto the island in is a death wish with waves closing to avoid the reef sticking out above the background. An anti-clockwise out across the narrow entrance. the water line and a nice little side circumnavigation of the island and Gordon’s Bay offers hope and we surf to finish the ride. I watch as we are on our way to Bondi with paddle in tentatively, watching Adrian and Caoimhin both catch a the promise of cake to speed up the surfers catching waves off the nice little wave each. Caoimhin and our paddle strokes. Unfortunately cliffs between Coogee Beach and I finish with a few practice rolls. my bad luck holds and on our Gordon’s Bay. With sighs of relief arrival at North Bondi we discover and pangs of hunger we make We help each other carry our a problem with our proposed lunch an easy landing at Gordon’s. We kayaks up the hill, pack up and had stop. Even though it is winter, there find a nice spot on the rocks and a quick debrief where Adrian quips are way too many surfers for us to set ourselves up for a picnic. The that the trip listing was for an easy make a safe landing without the sun is warming us up and due to 18-20kms but checking his GPS possibility of sending a few surfers the reduced group size the cake we had travelled almost 25kms. He on their way into the afterlife. As we slices are larger. This day has really was most vocal in accusing our trip sit offshore debating the positives picked up. leader of disinformation. and negatives of five sea kayaks A long lunch and then a leisurely It is always a surprise to that me running amok through the line-up paddle back to Malabar enjoying the that good company can turn a crap Ruby spots a few strange ships on bouncy water off the cliffs again. We morning into a pleasant day. I would the beach – ships of the desert that round the headland, enter the flat like to thank my fellow paddlers is, camels. water of the bay, as we approach for wonderful day. Special thanks With the strange sight of camels the beach I take a look behind me to trip leader Caoimhin and cake on a Sydney beach falling behind to see a nice little wave peaking up, chef Ruby. Finally I would like to us we backtrack south in the hope paddling hard I catch the wave a congratulate Caoimhin and Ruby of finding a better landing spot for long way out and call off the stand on the recent marriage that this trip lunch. Tamarama and Bronte look up paddle boarder dropping in on was commemorating.

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Shipwrecks and Seals The story of Preservation Island

RUBY ARDREN Image: Preservation Island is situated at the southern end of the of Islands north-east of Tasmania intended for sale to the colony. Only Islands in the Furneaux Group of a month later the ship experienced Islands in the eastern Bass Strait. heavy seas and began to take on Most paddlers will come across Caoimhin and I decided to water. The conditions didn’t ease Preservation Island when they’re spend a few days last Christmas and so with continuing problems close to completing the north to investigating the islands and testing the tides in the Banks Strait north the captain decided to ground the south Bass Strait crossing. They east of Tasmania. I was fascinated vessel on an uncharted island in the had deposited their rum on what is to discover that Preservation Bass Strait. A camp was set up on now known as . the main island, with salvaged rum Island had a history of shipwrecks, After establishing a camp, a group stored on a nearby small island out misfortune, industry and discovery. of 17 men took the ship’s longboat of the crew’s reach. Four men died Who would have thought such a and set out for Port Jackson, during the salvage operation (of the small island could carry such a 740km away. They only made it ship – not the rum, although that story? as far as Ninety Mile Beach, near may not have been reported). On 10 November 1796, the sailing Lakes Entrance in Victoria, before ship left Calcutta They had landed on the 207 hectare losing their boat, so set out on foot for Port Jackson in Sydney with Preservation Island, situated to cover the remaining 600km to provisions, spirits and goods between Cape Barren and Clarke Sydney. They had few provisions

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Left to right: Plan of the wreck site, drawn by Matthew Flinders in 1798 James Munro lived on the island Today, the island is mostly Crown (British Museum); Munro’s hut on with several Aboriginal women land, with a private freehold block Preservation Island (Henry Laing, British (thought to have been abducted of 20 hectares that has a hut and Museum, https://commons.wikimedia. org/w/index.php?curid=5678462) from the Tasmanian mainland) and is owned by the Preservation his half-caste children until he died Island Unit Trust. Up to 60 head in 1845. He fought the Government of cattle are sometimes grazed on and no ammunition. A number of the for the right of the sealers to the island. A 10 hectare area at party died of fatigue and starvation, retain their Aboriginal companions the south-eastern end of the island with another killed by an Aboriginal rather than have them removed to makes up the Sydney Cove Historic man named Dilba and his people settlements. While it was a hard Site. near Hat Hill. By May, the three life for many of the women, it was remaining in the party arrived in still preferable to the life they could We visited the island as a 20km Wattamolla, where they were taken expect in settlements established day paddle from our camp in the by a fishing boat to Sydney. on other islands. stunning Spike Cove on . There is a tidal current of 1-2 A salvage operation was begun After Munro died in 1845, knots between Preservation and immediately with the schooner Preservation Island was used Clarke Islands, which is nothing on Francis and sloop Eliza sent to primarily for grazing under a the tidal currents we experienced Preservation Island to pick up the number of leases, with mostly between Little Musselroe Bay on remaining survivors and cargo. absentee landlords since 1906. A the Tasmanian mainland and Clarke The curse continued on the return runway for light aircraft was built in Island, but that’s another story journey to Sydney, when Eliza the 1950’s, and today’s owners took altogether! was wrecked with the loss of the over the private leasehold in 1985. crew and eight of the Sydney References Over the years, the wreck was Cove survivors. Two more salvage a drawcard for explorers and Harris, Stephen (1999), operations were carried out over the criminals hoping to take advantage Preservation Island, Furneaux next year. of the remaining supplies. A group Group: Two Hundred Years of Although all survivors were of escaped convicts heard of the Vegetation Change, Papers and removed from the island, it was moored ship, but failed to refloat it Proceedings of the Royal Society of soon to attract further investigation to make good their escape. They Tasmania 133 (1) after the survivors of the Sydney were followed by a more reputable Cove reported that the Furneaux visitor in George Bass in 1798, who Kirkwood, Roger and Goldsworthy, Group Islands abounded in seals. on a voyage exploring the south- Simon (2013), Fur Seals and Sea This lead to a ‘seal rush’ and eastern coast of mainland Australia Lions, CSIRO Publishing between 1805 and 1808, 40-50 hoped to find the Sydney Cove Nash, Michael (2009), Sydney sealing vessels were located in to replenish supplies, and in the Cove: The History and Archaeology Bass Strait. By 1810 the seal process discovered the passage of an Eighteenth-Century population was almost exhausted. of water between Tasmania and Shipwreck, Navarine Publishing The industry continued at a much the mainland, now known as Bass smaller scale until the early 1830’s. Strait. Parks and Wildlife Service Tasmania, The Sydney Cove, Supplying the sealers was a man The wreck of the Sydney Cove was Found at http://www.parks.tas.gov. named James Munro, who settled finally located again in 1977 by au/index.aspx?base=1736 on Preservation Island and supplied divers, partly covered by sand in the sealers with mutton birds about 3-6 metres of water. The site Valentine, Barbara (2005), and produce from his vegetable has been stabilised and artefacts Munro, James (1779–1845), gardens and crops, and acted as a removed to the Queen Victoria Australian Dictionary of Biography storekeeper for their seal skins. Museum in Launceston, Tasmania. Supplementary Volume (MUP)

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 22 SW Tasmania Strahan to Cockle Creek

MATT BEZZINA

After paddling from Cockle Creek Discussions were had about what behind that without getting cleaned to Bathurst Harbour in 2014 I again we’d do if we found ourselves on up on the waves hitting the outside found myself in Tasmania, only this top of a breaking bommie, as we of it, wait for a break in the sets and time with two new faces and a more constantly scanned the sea for the go hard across some rocks before ambitious plan to paddle a one way humps of water that might give a turning 90 degrees and going trip from Strahan half way up the clue to the presence of one of these straight into the beach. The landing west coast, to Cockle Creek at the underwater hazards. Although I had went well overall even though Mark bottom of the Eastern side. the latest chart on my GPS, many got rolled and Campbell had to After a big drive from Sydney of these reefs were not marked, as capsize to stop himself from a hard followed by a night on the ferry from much of this part of the Tasmanian smash into some rocks on the North Melbourne, more driving to Strahan coast remains unsurveyed. I’m side of the beach. told the most up to date charting in and a punishing two day car shuffle The next day we paddled to a some places down there was done across Tasmania by Stuart & small cove on the inside of Hibbs by Captain Cook! Campbell, we were finally paddling Pyramid where we had lunch before out of Macquarie Harbour on a After 41km we arrived at what was heading off again to land at Hartwell sunny day with a fair forecast. to be our first landing, Birthday Bay. Cove, which was about the only The weather for our first After looking at the waves going place I’d picked out from Google day seemed great: no rain, into this reefy little beach I was Earth that we could actually get into temperatures around the mid 20’s steeling myself for another 40km to to! After negotiating a few rollers and light NE winds which was all the next possible landing! Luckily and breakers on either side we good. It was that underlying and Stuart Trueman had been here paddled through a small gap into a pretty much constant south westerly before and armed with that all- magnificent amphitheatre of a bay. swell that was going to be the issue, valuable experience and a wealth This was a wild and pristine place - as once we turned the corner and of intelligence gained from the likes problem was there was only a very started to see bomboras (offshore of Matty Watton, Jeff Jennings and small clearing for our communal reefs) explode around us without Laurie Ford, Stuart assured us it area and it was difficult to find tent warning at least some of us, me was going to be fine as long as we sites. Despite this I was thrilled to included, got a bit rattled. made a dash for a big rock, got be there.

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Above: Mark, Shaan, Stuart & Campbell. but as usual the swell was big and pedal failed. We had to down They didn’t seem to have the same most beaches were simply not an sails to keep together and so feelings for Hartwell Cove as I did! option so again Stuarts knowledge couldn’t take full advantage of the of a little slot was invaluable and so conditions. It was exciting none The next day Stuart and I explored we paddled past a few reefs and the less. As we paddled past The the option of paddling up The breaking bommies to find an easy Coffee Pot things were really lively Wanderer River but like all the rivers landing. and just as I mounted my camera down here there was a shallow We used an Eaton SSB short wave on the back of Mark’s boat I got bar and it was a real mess with radio to get our weather forecast, picked up by a steep breaking wave incoming swell against outflowing as of course the whole SW is totally and engulfed in the wave face, river with a smattering of rocks. off the grid so we were aware of a I braced hard. The wind, now at It could have been done with a big blow headed our way. We had around 30 knots, just caught the landing on the beach to the side of to make it into Port Davey before tip of my sail and along with an the river but would have meant a it hit, so although the forecast was almighty stroke I managed to bring and with our heavy boats for strong winds to 30 knots they the bow round and shoot down and lack of group enthusiasm for were from the North West and as the face of the wave, the last thing the idea we turned around and we were heading South East we I saw was Mark’s boat with the headed out to sea, destination were all go - I was looking forward camera pointed right at me. This Mainwaring Inlet. to this. We hit the water and soon was going to be some awesome footage - too bad the memory was As we’d only paddled 20km to reach had the sails up and were blasting full and we got none of it! Mainwaring Inlet we set up camp along. This is the day that most of the paddling footage in my video and went up the river to explore We all dug deep, especially Stuart was taken. The wind was building this magnificent area. A Tassie as he now had no rudder, and and we were making some really Devil ambled along the shore as rounded Vincent Point into the good time. we paddled almost silently to find shelter of Port Davey. Now with a the head of the river and collect Unfortunately things got a bit too headwind we plodded onto Bond some fresh water. The next day we strong and Stuarts sail ripped at Bay where, again thanks to Stuart’s did another 40km to Mulchay Bay about the same time his rudder intelligence, there would be a hut

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Above left and right: Sails up; Right: The right Hut - complete with bath (upturned and discarded in the bush) Bond Bay complete with bath waiting for us. We pushed on into a strengthening head wind until we were about two k’s away and then, into the full force of what must have been in the vicinity of 35 knot winds arrived to a beach which was supposed to be where our hut was. We split up and scoured the coast. I saw a horizontal line through the bush so got out to take a closer look. There I found the ruins of some shack and the burnt out vegetation of recent bush fires. All in all a depressing place that I didn’t think much of. I got back in the boat and went down the beach to find the others who were still looking for the hut. “How was it?” Stuart asked. “Depressing. The next day, still with strong winds at Claytons Hut and as everyone We’d be better off camping in the we headed up The Davey River as gathered up and prepared to head bush” I replied. “So no hut then?”, far as we could. up river I made the decision to simply stay where I was as I’d “No” I answered. “No bath either The wind took us up and the current already been to Melaleuca twice, then” someone joked. “Well actually helped bring us back but the last and I’d been relentlessly socialising yes, there was a bath”. few K’s were still a very hard slug with our crew for over a week now The weather forecast for the next and I was really struggling to make and just felt like spending time day was for 50 knot winds and eight any headway. With strong winds alone. Everyone headed off and metre swells with a 100% chance of and big swells set to continue we left me in isolation on my own little rain. We weren’t going anywhere. set off the next day to the Bathurst beach. I cooked up some mussels We spent the next day cramped Channel. We stopped at Balmoral I’d collected earlier, got my MP3 in the small hut chatting endlessly Beach and met some paddlers player to work through the speaker about very little, occasionally that were part of an organised tour of my short wave radio and sat reading from Shaan’s kindle and with Roaring 40’s. We were told down to enjoy my rum and get cooking and eating. there was another group staying pissed in paradise!

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Clockwise from top left: Seals have The next day was raining and We headed off for the big one taken over the dilapidated landing spot windy - a perfect day to sleep off around South West Cape. It’s on ; Shaan in the my hang over. The day after that a big day but thankfully we had water helping with a difficult launch at I packed up and headed up river good conditions with little wind and Maatsuyker; Abalone; Up Davey River towards the Davey Gorge to find the others. Turned out they although the swell was still up it didn’t stay at Clayton’s as it was full was back to it’s 2 to 3 metres and (the surf exit in the video is from but today the other group had left so we were able to have a break Ketchem Bay) and were soon so we all paddled over to Clayton’s at McKays Gulch. Soon after we heading to - Maatsuyker Island! and moved in. A Melbourne based rounded the cape and not long after yachtie, Bill and his friend Edna set up camp at Ketchem Bay. After an exciting landing we were moored at the jetty and joined walked up to meet the lighthouse us inside. Bill was impressed with Things had calmed right down, not keepers and learn a bit about this what we were doing and especially only weather wise but also because magnificent island. We had some impressed when we explained that we were on the lee side of South tea and cake and then forced Stuart Trueman had gone all the West Cape and although the swells ourselves to leave as we still had way around Australia. Bill and Edna are still big it had a slightly gentler a solid paddle ahead to make it to were good company. The next day, feel about it, also helped by the Deadmans Bay before dark. Instead again with strong westerlies, we fact I was now in familiar territory. of launching one at a time we headed back out to Spain Bay. We busted out through the surf, helped Shaan get off the rocks (see

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video for footage of this) and then them ashore which was dangerous highlight meals of the trip - seven passed all four boats to her to hold and caused quite a bit of damage abalone that was given to Shaan by onto which she did by tying them to some of the boats including some fisherman we met on the way. Stuart’s which had a big seal land together with her tow rope. Once The forecast received that night on it after a misplaced jump off a she had all the boats we jumped was not good. Another system was rock. Although I was filming this I in amongst the hoards of seals building and we needed to move. had to abandon the shoot and run and swam out to scramble into our The next day we punched into an to avoid being trampled by a large kayaks. I think it would have been ever increasing headwind past seal myself! better to just tie the boats together, South Cape, South East Cape and swim from one side of the bay to In high spirits and feeling on top of finally into Cockle Creek. After a big the other tying the boats off at each the world we headed off past De day of headwind paddling of over 50 side and just leave them afloat in Witt Island and onto Deadmans kms we were met by Raewyn and the bay rather than trying to get Cove where we had one of the Neil Duffy who had kindly brought

one of our cars back and before we even got out of the boats had a cold beer in our hand. The yachties we’d met a week earlier, Bill and Edna, were also there to meet us and added to the celebration by popping a bottle of champagne. We were soon enjoying a fine BBQ again thanks to Rae & Neil. This was a great trip with a really competent crew. Everyone in the group had worked very hard on their fitness and was well prepared. As a result there were no allowances made for anyone and we all travelled at a remarkably similar speed and had a common goal to get along and achieve our objectives which is what we did. I look forward to our next adventure.

Top: Strahan to Cockle Creek including side trips to the Davey Gorge and Melaleuca; Left: Mark Schroeder, Campbell Tiley, Shaan Gresser, Stuart Trueman, Matt Bezzina enjoying beers provided by Rae and Neil Duffy at Cockle Creek.

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT 27 Monkey see, Monkey do...not see Circumnavigating the Tasman Peninsula

MONKEY IMAGES BY RUBY & CAOIMHIN ARDREN MONKEY’S CHAUFFER: CHRIS YOUNG, MONKEY’S AIDE: ALISON CURTIN

Chris took me away from the loving arms of my carer (Chris’ daughter) with the promise of sunshine, tropical waters and luxury accommodation. Then he took me to Tasmania to go kayak camping. I got two days on the upper deck. The first was between Pirates Bay and Fortescue Bay, and even though I was dying of hypothermia after getting drenched by waves, I couldn’t help but notice the amazing cliffs, caves, slots and sea stacks along this section of coast. Chris then hung me up in a tree to dry and packed me away in tight lodgings in the hold for the next few days with his smelly socks. We spent New Year’s Eve in Denman Cove in Port Arthur, where we enjoyed a champagne while watching a stunning sunset, and then I don’t remember much until I surfaced again for the section from White’s Beach to Lime Bay. All was forgiven after a smashing ‘after the paddle’ paddle (on the upper deck) across Lake St Clair in Cradle Mountain National Park. At least I’ll have a few stories to tell my carer...

Day Trip route Distance Conditions Camping Day 1 Pirates Bay to Fortescue Bay 26.5 km 0.5 m seas, wind 5-10 kn Bivouac Bay Day 2 Fortescue Bay to Port Arthur 32 km 1.5 m seas, wind 5-15 kn Denman Cove Day 3 Within Port Arthur 10 km 0.5 m seas, wind 15-18 kn Safety Beach Day 4 Within Port Arthur + car shuffle 16 km 1-2 m seas, wind 15-20 kn White Beach Day 5 White Beach to Lime Bay 36 km 0.5 m seas, wind 10-15 kn Lime Bay Day 6 Lime Bay to + car shuffle 21 km 0.5 m seas, wind 10-15 kn White Beach Day 7 White Beach to Port Arthur 43 km < 0.5m seas, wind 5-15 kn White Beach

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 Beginning at Pirates Bay, the section between Port Arthur and White Beach had to be done at the end of the trip due to poor paddling conditions. Clockwise from top left: Sloping Main; Lime Bay; Crossing ; Tasman Arch; Cape Hauy; ; Seal; New Years in Denman Cove; Cave in Port Arthur; Refuge Bay; ; Group selfie; Arch near Cape Raoul; Paddymelon.

We hitched from Port Arthur to White Beach to continue north, and then hitched from Eaglehawk Neck back to White Beach so we could finish at Port Arthur. 30

Having recently moved to the South Trip 1 Coast, I decided to utilise the winter Ulladulla to Vincentia 70kms months to explore the approaches to Jervis Bay, as well as the vast Around an hour drive south from Bay itself. I know that this area has Nowra, Ulladulla has a history been a favourite of many paddlers dating back to 1830 having over the years but my water borne been used for ship building and wanderings have not previously commercial sea trade. Ulladulla led me to this part of the coast. In Harbour is an ideal place to launch, retrospect, I should have done this with a nicely protected harbour a while ago!! What I discovered is a veritable paddling paradise. Where beach. Having packed my kayak to begin? There is something for and waved goodbye to my support everyone here…abundant wild life, “crew” (of one) it was nice to paddle snow white beaches, towering rock past the jetty and through the heads cliffs, imposing bombies, sea caves, of the small bay, turning left to shoot rock gardens and a vast amount of up the coast. I love the feeling at blue space. With relatively limited the beginning of a trip, just as I push power boat traffic and an abundance off and enjoy the first few paddle of protected launch sites, there is strokes in anticipation of what Ulladulla more than enough around Jervis Bay adventures will come my way over to get any paddler off the couch – and the coming days. surely a circumnavigation of the bay has to be one of the best day paddles I must say that while it’s terrific to around. paddling with friends and sharing Over three trips I covered around the experience, I really enjoy solo 200kms of coast line between adventure. It heightens the senses Gerroa Ulladulla and Gerroa and around knowing that there is no one there the Bay. I wanted to provide a bit to depend on and gives a great of a taste of these great paddling nomadic-like sense of freedom. BART MALECKI opportunities as well as trip ideas for With a general plan of attack, I love kayakers not familiar with this area... the ability to go with the flow and

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT 31 paddle at my own pace while the into its reefs. Eventually I glided With camp set up just in time with world goes on around me. I can past the last of the defences into the fading light, I sipped on some spend time investigating bits of calmer water. There was a choice great port and contemplated the interesting coastline, poking into of beaches for afternoon tea with a day. I think this is a fine day paddle rock gardens and enjoying the odd little sneaky shore break providing with a few launch site options and surf session. a great opportunity to look foolish escape routes. In a bigger southerly trying to land – fortunately my dignity Almost immediately I was hit side there would be plenty of rebound remained intact. After some cheese on by a fresh NW wind that seems and care needs to be taken around and crackers, mixed with a little sand to follow me whichever way I went the reefs and beach landings. (not on purpose, but a stark reminder (this mysterious wind changes Getting through the bar at Sussex of the importance of NOT knocking direction but it always seems to would be tricky in bigger conditions. the cheese board off the kayak be going against me). With messy A paddle from Ulladulla to Sussex whilst dining on a beach) and a good chop slapping my beam, I tucked in Inlet, or through the inlet into St stretch of the hamstrings, it was time and passed a series of beaches and George’s Basin would be great, to move. The wind was increasing, rocky peninsulas and was joined particularly given the relatively safe the sun was on its downward swing briefly by a solitary seal having waters of the basin (although don’t and the night’s destination was still a peek at my kayak. Obligatory underestimate this body of water, up for grabs. The last leg to Sussex wildlife sighting….tick. Paddling in particularly in a strong southerly). Inlet is straightforward, albeit I will this area is exposed to southerly It could also be turned into an say that beach landings here do winds and swell and beach landings overnighter with camping in the not seem overly inviting with plenty can be a little tricky. Thankfully Basin as well – which is a beautiful of reefs and imposing breakers there are a few rocky peninsulas waterway and gives easy access pounding in. The bar into Sussex striking out into the sea, which offer back to the Princes Highway and is interesting – two separate reefs sheltered nooks. Greg Island was Huskisson…after such a great day with a gap in between them. I wasn’t the first major point of interest with I was very pleased with myself and feeling brave so paddled around and a series of reefs and the “Island” happily curled up in the tent with snuck through on the inside. The itself near the head of Lake Conjola. a book, falling asleep within three swell was breaking along the gap I had visions of skirting the inside, minutes, by 8pm! and then reforming again across but as I got closer it was pretty clear the bar, although the defences of Stronger north westerlies were that surfing over the reef was not the reef took the sting out of the forecast for the next day and the going to happen. I passed a big breakers. I wound up catching a forecast was dead on…bugger group of surfers having a great time ride, bracing instantaneously and – no sooner had I punched out surfing the point and slowly made side surfing over the bar and into through the small surf than the wind my way around. the tranquil waters of the inlet. This pushed me a few hundred metres The next objective was Red Head, is a really beautiful spot with glassy offshore. From there it was bit of near the township of Bendalong. waters surrounded by quiet forests. a battle in 20 knot winds, those Providing great shelter from The tide can run hard through it, ugly cold westerlies creating large southerly swell, the head is a but otherwise it’s a safe and easy chop in a small amount of room. I little imposing with surf pounding paddle. chipped away against the wind and chop and finally made the 7kms to Caves Beach, which took well over an hour. Caves is accessible by car and is a great surf spot where I frequently take my white water kayak to have a bash – not today. This is also a whale watching hot spot and I had been told that there were so many whales about that I would do well not to get caught in a sea traffic jam. So far, whale sightings…zero!

This page: Whiting Beach; Opposite: Sussex Inlet

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This is a beautiful paddling area surface. Every time this happened and there is a launch site at behind me I spun my head around Summercloud Bay, which can be somehow expecting a huge fin to used as a spring board for a great be following me - ahh the benefits day trip. Just a little further along is of a vivid imagination and time to Whiting Beach, which is at the end ponder. of a long narrow bay and offers a Eventually the coast curls safe landing spot and a great place around and I was treated to the for a break. Paddling into the little sight of Bowen Island and Point bay is amazing with crystal clear Perpendicular on the other side of water and beautiful rocky walls the bay. With a moderate sea and giving way to a white secluded a high tide beneath me, running beach. This entire area can be the gap between Bowen Island enjoyed as a short paddle as there and Murray’s beach was a breeze is plenty of exploring around the and I was suddenly inside Jervis rock gardens and headlands – a Bay. With a final break at the watchful eye is required however; spectacular Murray’s beach nestled as there are abundant reefs around Top left: Green Patch; Other: on the south-eastern part of the which can break unexpectedly. Paddling in Jervis Bay. bay, I was ready for a battle into After a short downwind paddle the Nor Wester on my final 11km towards St Georges Head (which to Vincentia. As I set off, the wind houses the local seal colony), the dropped off completely and I had coastline turns North Easterly - one of those fantastic paddling this provided a perfect windbreak experiences in the late afternoon making the longest stretch of the light. day far more pleasant. As I rounded In short, this is an outstanding the head, I glanced up the coast paddling area, both for day or and the view was awe-inspiring. multi day trips. Summercloud to My jaw literally dropped as I poked Murray’s Beach is around 20km around the corner and the gravity and is a spectacular day paddle. of the landscape opened up in front Care needs to be taken as this is of me. Huge majestic cliff lines that an exposed piece of open water seemed to go on forever, cracks, coastline with lots of rebound off sea caves and rock platforms where the cliffs. The only viable escape small swell suddenly steepens is on Steamer’s, a steep south- abruptly and then dumps violently. facing beach – which I would avoid In short…Paddling Heaven!!! at all costs in strong southerly There is one beach, Steamers, conditions. For experienced parties, Trip 2 which breaks up the scenery I cannot recommend this paddle and provides a potential landing enough for its scenery and sense Jervis Bay Circumnavigation spot (completely exposed to any of remoteness. Once within Jervis southerly sea state), but that aside, Bay there are abundant pick up I think this must be one of the best it’s all rock. At some point I paddled points, Murray’s boat ramp, Iluka day paddles on the coast. Much past Cape St George, which is Beach, Plantation Point, Vincentia of the bay is sheltered from any the site of a historical lighthouse or Huskisson. Logistics for an breaking surf and for such amazing constructed in 1860. This is an overnight option are easy. There scenery and vastness of the marine imposing, towering rock wall and is great camping at Green Patch landscape, this is a relatively safe another great whale watching site – or Honeymoon Bay (subject to environment and a very rewarding quite famous in fact. Today’s whale frequent closure given the peninsula day out. Due to its vastness and sightings…remain zero. While there is a Naval bombardment area). fetch, the bay can turn nasty were no whales, I was constantly It would be very easy to turn this as the wind builds and this can accompanied by Gannets diving into an amazing two day paddle by happen quickly. So it should not be with great speed into the water as camping within the bay and then underestimated and normal rules they hunted bait fish. Every so often either completing a Jervis Bay of safety apply. The bay is 45km my attention would be taken by a circumnavigation or proceeding around and can be easily split into huge splash as one of these guys north around the Beecroft Peninsula a multi-day paddle with a camp launched themselves through the and onto Currarong. at Green Patch or Honeymoon

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and was amazed to see swarms I swore… swore again, had a brief of fish below us – the water was ride down the face then it was white unbelievably clear and the schools water everywhere – I had that brief looked amazing. second of fear but managed to keep it upright as the wave spilled and After a rest at Murray’s beach, we spat me out the other side. My GPS paddled past Bowen Island and watch measured my highest speed crossed the heads, bobbing up for the day at 28.5km/hr and I was and down on a 1m swell. This is a glad to move on!! completely open crossing of around 5kms. As we got closer to Longnose Andrew and I paddled past the Point, the key danger of the paddle myriad of beautiful rock gardens came into view. Pretty well known as we continued on the inside of and clearly marked on marine Beecroft Peninsula – the paddling charts, Bombora Rock is a shallow here is sublime. With abundant bird reef several hundred metres from life, dolphins and an array of rocky shore that can break without nooks and crannies to explore, warning, there are a few in this time flew past. Around Green area. Like all such features, the big Point into Hare Bay, the scenery danger with these is that they break changes again. In contrast to the only occasionally and this varies rock gardens and white beaches, on the prevailing conditions. We Hare Bay is a wide expanse of bay. My paddling buddy for the gave the first bombie a wide berth shallower water. With the various day, Andrew and I set off from and turned to paddle towards Dart rocky peninsulas breaking up any Collingwood beach in Vincentia and Point. A second bombie popped up southerly swell, the sea state in headed anti-clockwise. With the N ahead of us. With some bravado I this part of the bay was like glass, to NW wind forecast, we figured decided to go in for a closer look not a ripple – every paddle stroke that we would get some assistance to see if I wanted to have a surf. disturbed an otherwise perfectly later on when we got a bit tired and As I inched closer I missed the clean surface. cranky. We had a perfect winter’s point where I drifted into the break We continued onto Callala Bay day with the wind staying pretty zone – I looked back (and up) as and had another rest. The day was light, the swell modest and blue a bigger set came through. The getting on and we were getting a bit skies above us. innocuous swell in the open ocean tired. After negotiating the reefs just had suddenly steepened to a large outside Callala Bay we continued The first section took us past and angry (I would guess 6 foot) on the last leg past Callala Beach, a series of the whitest of white breaker. Although when I tell the onto Huskisson and back to beaches - including the famous story now this has been upgraded Collingwood beach in Vincentia. Hyams beach. All was quiet and it to 12 feet and may eventually turn After a few celebratory rolls, seemed we were the only boats on into a tsunami. The surfing was evening was coming and we got the entire bay that day. Paddling going to happen whether I liked it cold, so it was time to head home past Iluka beach I looked down or not. The wave started to break, for beer and stories.

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Would I do this paddle again? of which is completely exposed Trip 3 - Vincentia to Gerroa 80kms Absolutely…. and I will. I think it’s to the open swell and wind. The My third winter trip and another solo one of the best day paddling areas reefs and bombies around the point paddle. I was really looking forward on the coast and offers something need to be watched carefully, as I to paddling around the famous different every time. There are inadvertently demonstrated. They Beecroft Peninsula and exploring plentiful launch sites, escape routes are well marked on marine charts. this section of the coast. and places to land along the way. Also if the wind increases the bay After a straight line crossing from For such a long and wild coastline, can turn into a swarm of whitecaps the great advantage of the bay Vincentia to Point Perpendicular extremely quickly. In winter, watch (around 12 kms), where I finally is that it is reasonably sheltered for the strong offshore Westerlies. compared to completely open water. enjoyed some decent whale In summer, as the almost daily sightings, I rounded the corner The scenery is rugged and beautiful afternoon Nor Easter rolls trough, and started making my way along and it gives the paddler a sense of there is nowhere to hide. This does the cliffs. Just like the previous remoteness even though civilisation offer an amazing opportunity for sensation on the southern approach is close by. For those that like to downwind paddling, but that’s a to the bay, I was in absolute awe play around rock gardens, there are story for another day. of the enormity of the cliff lines. some opportunities as well and wild Granted it’s not the Zuytdorp life (dolphins, seals, turtles, eagles For those planning some paddling cliffs, but the 15km paddle from and other bird life) is abundant. – best short day trips would launch Point Perpendicular requires Key safety considerations are the at Iluka beach (near Green Patch) some commitment without any crossing between Murrays Beach to Murrays beach; Plantation Point straightforward landing spots and Longnose Point (~5kms) most to Huskisson; or out of Callala Bay along the way until you get close to Honeymoon. For those looking to Currarong. It feels exposed for a more adventurous paddle, and remote and is a real paddling crossing the bay and camping or experience. If you like rebound, this completing the circumnavigation is the place to be!! are great options. I had lucked out with a great day enjoying light south-westerly winds and mild sea conditions. Tucking in at the base of the cliffs, paddling was easy going and the time flew by as I enjoyed the complete Left and below: Beecroft Peninsula; commitment of the journey. Soon Opposite: Camp on Seven Mile I was at the famous Drum and Beach

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Drumstick sea stacks, which is a After lunch at Culburra Beach, the breakfast of fried ham, scrambled well known diving and fishing spot. wind came up again - this time eggs and hot coffee was probably The sea stacks are a distinct and it turned against me and I had a worth it. Given time constraints, it spectacular feature and a great bit of a battle as I headed up the was clear that I would not make place to spend some time and look Shoalhaven Bight past Greenwell the pickup point in time and would around. As I was bobbing about Point (where the Shoalhaven river need to alter my plans. I surfed in having a look, I enjoyed another spills out in the open ocean) and at Gerroa and made alternate plans great whale encounter. Some 30 onto Seven Mile Beach where a surf for pick up. After a previous day of metres away, I saw the whale slowly landing awaited me. The next day I long beaches, I was really looking descend below the surface….on a was due to finish the trip in Kiama, forward to the more varied coastline heading directly for me. After some some 20km north – on paper an up to Kiama, but alas it was not to concern about a possible mid-water easy paddle. be. A good reminder of the flexibility collision all went quiet and I was In the morning, as I set off and that is required when open water very satisfied with the day’s wildlife paddled a few hundred meters touring, where weather has the final sightings…finally. offshore, it was clear that Mother say. With a 30 minute wait for my The wind came up a bit as I Nature was going to be having none pick up, the little break at the north rounded Beecroft Head, then Little of it. With a forecast northerly wind end of Seven Mile Beach required Beecroft Head and paddled into of 15 to 20 knots, I was plugging some extra surf practice, so all was Crookhaven Bight and the small away straight into the headwind not lost. township of Currarong. Currarong from the get go. After a bit of a If I was to sum up the paddling is a quiet seaside hideaway and battle, inching forward for almost in this region, then I would say a great place to launch day trips an hour, I just got past Black Head, that the cliffs around Gerroa and from. It’s about 8km on the water near Gerroa – about 3km for the Beecroft Peninsula are fantastic (one way) to Drum and Drumsticks, day so far, and not what I would and I would be happy to visit this which is a perfect day paddle. consider the most fun paddling, but area over and over, and Currarong certainly character building. The next morning, I snuck in a surf is a great spot to use as a base. session at Currarong Beach. The A decision needed to be made at North of Currarong, the Shoalhaven swell was timid but never the less this point. Family commitments Bight is full of long beaches and it was great fun, albeit in a fully required me to be picked up by offers less variety. While there can loaded kayak. I made slow progress the extraction team and being be some great surfing fun here, it’s along the long beach towards late was not an option. I made the more it a transit area I think. Further Culburra while surfing any decent mistake of getting a late start and north towards Kiama, there is great waves that came my way – what a missing the early morning low wind potential again, but that has to wait way to tour!!! window. In retrospect the cooked for another day.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 36 Tasmanian Holiday

BARRY MARSHALL

Devonport to Robbins outcrops and islands everywhere. Passage However, by the time I reached 1 February 2016 the car park on the eastern side of Rocky Cape, the wind was I set off from Mercy Bluff on the hooting from sou sou-west. I gained western side of Devonport at 1pm protection from the considerable presence of Highfield, the main after spending the night at the wind on the northern side but residence of the Van Dieman’s Land caravan park (the kayak was very eventually on rounding the cape, (VDL) company holdings. The huge heavily loaded). The manager told I had to paddle into the stinging VDL estate was established in 1825 me I could park the car there until I wind, which was coming in gusts. I and was the virtual government got back – I had no idea when that ground my way to a community of in this part of Tasmania for many would be as I was hoping to paddle unoccupied holiday houses (except years. (44 kms) down the west coast. After just a for myriads of March flies!) where I 4 February couple of hours paddling into a pulled in and seriously considered building nor-westerly I began to feel camping for the night. The wind, as I wandered into Stanley and unwell and pulled into an estuary it commonly does after the initial climbed the ‘Nut’ (great views) and (Leith) to get out of the wind (now front, eased ever so slightly so I headed to the port along a street 20 knots) and the intense sun. I put back in again figuring that, by of wonderful heritage houses (Joe waited until the cool of evening to making the beach further to the Lyons, the prime minister, was born paddle around the estuary before south, I might find a little protection. in one). At the port I got a weather pitching my tent in the bush. (11 Along the beach, after another report and then approached a kms) estuary (Hellyer), I found a little fisherman who was tying up for 2 February (rare) shade in which to have lunch. some inside knowledge of Robbins I plugged away after lunch now Passage, Hell’s Gate (the passage I set off early with much more hoping to round the bay to have around Woolnorth on the north- favourable conditions (10 knot the wind aft. I passed the Port Latta west point of Tasmania; not the nor-easterly and calm seas). I felt loading facility (iron ore is conveyed entrance to Macquarie Harbour) much better and was making good 85 kilometres via a slurry pipe) and and the west coast. He looked at progress. Had lunch at a cosy on to the sandy, northward curving me squarely and said that I was estuary at Heybridge. By latish bay. Eventually I unfurled the sail f...... mad to consider it in a kayak, afternoon I was paddling past and took off. The further I went the what’s more, alone! On overhearing Table Cape looking for somewhere more the wind assisted until I was the conversion, another older ruddy to camp when, to the west, Boat flying along. The only hiccup was fisherman stuck his head out and Harbour appeared as the most when I hit some very confused seas let out a spray of expletives on what perfect campsite across the bay. on a shallow sand bank formed by he thought of pricks like me who put Boat Harbour is a stunningly an estuary. I pulled in and found a people like him at risk of rescuing beautiful cove so I made for a piece very surprised couple, (I must have people like me. He told me to go of lawn to the side of the surf club. looked a bit strange – spray skirt, and read the epitaph to a young It was 5:20pm when I landed and child’s T-shirt over my head and local fisherman who died trying to spent the rest of the day (dark at zinc - appearing out of the ocean) save that c.... Dicker (Tony Dicker, 9:15pm) lounging around talking to who told me that I was in Stanley. who was attempting to row across the friendly locals and swimming in They also said that if I continued Bass Strait in a self designed aquamarine waters. (65 kms) on around the ‘Nut’ (the prominent row boat in atrocious conditions 3 February and famous Stanley headland) that in 1986). I thanked them both for I would be more sheltered on the their frankness and headed for Awoke to the lightest sprinkle of northern side. Sure enough, after the epitaph in front of the Hursey rain and calm, glassy seas. The rounding the Nut, I entered a calmer seafood shop. I’ve always been coast west of here is stunning, an bay (the wind now had a touch of one to defer to the knowledge of adjective which is much used when east to it and still howling). I pitched any local and these guys seemed paddling in Tasmania! Wild rocky my tent nearby the commanding like they had been to sea in the

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Above: The Nut, Stanley. area all their lives – they certainly headed into the estuary and made managed to sow a seed of doubt in my way to the estuarine, muddy the passage in regards to tides and my mind. I headed off mid-morning Smithton. I now remembered having channels. However, part of my way in a wind about half the strength read an article by Matty Watton, there I came across very shallow of the day before (still windy). the Tasmanian adventurer, where water and sandbanks. I decided to Around the first point I paddled he launched in stinking black mud follow some markers (to my left) past a colony of seals on an island for one of his circumnavigations of that led me to an oyster lease near and on past a desolate wind swept Tasmania! Thankfully, there was a the western shore. I decided not beach with a strange, submerged floating dock so I avoided the wade to head back again with the falling stone wall which extended out to across the mud. It was right beside tide (and risk having a very wet sea. Stanley is reputed to have the free campsite which was a campsite) so I got out and dragged the cleanest air (and is probably bonus. My neighbour that night was my loaded kayak a hundred metres the windiest place) in the world as the Australian bush poet champion to a point which appeared to be it is a peninsula that juts out into for the past few years and I had a above the high water mark. With Bass Strait with nothing to the west private rendition of her more recent no shade I pitched my tent and sat of it. Around the point I headed work (a very funny poem about inside and sweltered! High tide was back into the wind and looked for the modern automated loo that sat at 9 that night so I stayed put. A a place to pull in for lunch. I spied across from us). (36kms) very stiff wind arose from the east a tree so I landed on a sandbank 5 February (no surprise by now). I decided about 500 metres from the shore, to stay the night and catch the as it was low tide. I traipsed to Set out on the falling tide to explore following morning’s high tide as it the shore only to be thwarted by Robbins Passage. Conditions were was at least cool by this time of the gorse and a barbed-wire fence so mild (hot but calm) and I quickly afternoon. (18 kms) I sat down in the baking sun and made it across Duck Bay to Perkins 6 February had lunch. After lunch I decided Island. At Shipwreck Point, on the to head for Smithton, which would western end of Perkins Island I Awoke to a very stiff easterly offer me some relief from the wind could see west across the blue bay wind and decided to head back to and sun at least. Nothing along the to Stony Point where I hoped to Smithton as an easterly wind, I had way seemed great for camping. I work out the best way to approach been informed, was the worst wind

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to approach the passage, Hell’s Macquarie Harbour and another group of rafters who had Gate and Cape Grim (don’t you Gordon River descended the Gordon. Saw a just love those evocative names!). 9 February platypus when I stopped to stretch I beat back into the wind all the on a log. Trying to find anywhere to way to Duck Bay and Smithton I approached the tourist information land on the Gordon isn’t easy, as with broaching, choppy waves. I office at Strahan and asked if there the forest seems to extend into the had already decided to hitch back, was anything I should know about river itself. A camp with a building get my car and head for the west paddling up the Gordon River. (Boom Camp) carved out of the coast. Next time I would attempt The lady said that I could catch forest appeared to be a possible it in company. The wind, and a boat. “No,” says I, “I have my campsite if I couldn’t find anything intense UV along with the prospect own kayak.” “You can’t kayak up else further up. The large tourist of being held up for days on my Macquarie Harbour,” she replied. boat had caught up and passed me own suddenly didn’t seem all that “Why?” I enquired. “Because boats on its way to Liberty Point where appealing. (18 kms) use it,” was her reason! Frustrated passengers disembark for a walk in 7 February at trying to reason with me she put the forest before heading back to me on to another staff member Strahan. A convoy of three sailing Up early I easily hitched rides to who could see my logic in paddling. boats passed by heading, I was Devonport in three separate lifts Eventually I got to launch from Mill later to learn, for Sir John Falls. (one with an 83 year old aborigine Bay, to the west of Strahan, at 3pm full of great stories). I drove to and headed for the most notorious Eventually I decided to turn back Marrawah and camped the night, of penal settlements at Sarah to Boom Camp or Sarah Island for again at a free campsite near the Island. I paddled due south until the night as nothing looked very beach. I picked up the far shore, veered appealing as a campsite. Back at 8 February sou-east and headed straight for Boom Camp an older couple, Kevin Sarah Island. I arrived at 7:15 after and Anne, had pulled up in their Drove to Arthur River hoping to seeing a Tasmanian Devil on a half cabin boat and were planning ascend the river for a few days mainland beach and made myself to spend the night on their boat at (after seeing what a howling comfortable amidst the old ruins. the dock. From them I learned that westerly had done to the ocean!) The remoteness of the place that the camp was open to the public but was thwarted by the bush fires I found so peaceful was, for the – the building could sleep a dozen that had been around for weeks convicts sentenced to the island, a people with good facilities (with and was threatening to break out of living hell from all reports. (33 kms) a donation box) and that a good containment lines set by the weary campsite could have been found 10 February looking fire fighters. By this stage I at Sir John Falls not far past where gave up on paddling the west coast Set out after a self-guided tour I had actually paddled. The camp and decided to head for the Gordon of the island. Conditions were was originally a staging camp for River at Macquarie Harbour. Stayed calm (very light drizzle) as I the timber-getters who rowed their at beautiful Boat Harbour for the made my way up the Gordon ‘punts’ up the Gordon and Franklin night. River (flows about 1 knot). A boat Rivers seeking the amazing Huon, Left: Gordon River, Macquarie Harbour. (Stormbreaker) cruised past in the King Billy and Celery-Top pines, Right: Sara Island convict settlement, other direction having picked up besides other valuable timbers. The Macquarie Harbour.

MARCH 2016 | SALT 39 three of us lounged around on the pass far enough away to the east it was called Tranquillity Bay!). By dock reading, chatting and having for things to settle. The BOM had 10 first paddling south along Bruny for mugs of tea. A seal even appeared. to 20 metre waves at its core plus some distance I managed to avoid An incredible coincidence was that gale force sou-westerly winds! the worst of a side wind for the their son worked at the same café in The day’s warning was down to crossing. Staying wide (a bombora Manly as my daughter. (46kms) a strong wind warning for coastal was breaking) and right of Betsey 11 February waters so I headed off from a Island (the inside passage looked mate’s place at Blackmans Bay, shallow - lighthouse was Set off early with the sky and forest a southern suburb of Hobart away to my left) I aimed for Sloping perfectly reflecting in the glassy (there were occasional three foot Main. At I landed surface of the river. Again I was sets breaking across the bay), for lunch and even considered passed by Stormbreaker with and headed along the coast to camping, but couldn’t find a level another group of rafters. I paddled Tinderbox and into a considerable piece of ground (boom boom!). back via the northern shore of wind. I waited for conditions to Landing at Dunalley just short of the Macquarie Harbour for a change ease and when they didn’t I set canal (which separates Forestier of scenery. Not long after setting off anyway to skirt around Dennes Peninsula from the mainland) a off across the harbour I saw in the Point on the northern end of Bruny local told me where I could buy distance something that looked like Island to see what conditions were some bread and that a good place a tide race with an unbroken line like on its eastern side. Around to camp would be at Chinamans of breaking waves. As I got closer I the point conditions were worse Beach at end of the ‘narrows’ where could make out dolphins strung out (Dennes Point must get a good there were unoccupied shacks. The in a long line bailing up a school of right hander when the swell is water was flowing quickly through fish. A stiff southerly blew up as I big enough!) so I headed back to the canal (luckily in my direction) rounded into Swan Basin with a lot Tinderbox to camp for the night. I and at its end, on the right, was a of choppy waves. I headed for Cat met a local (Jenny) out for a walk tiny beach, which I assumed was Island and then set my sail for the here and she happened to mention Chinamans Beach so I landed and final run back to my car at Mill Bay. that she was the 1977 Australian made camp for the night. (55 kms) (48kms) kayak champion (white water). 19 February 18 February A strong wind warning (cold) was Blackmans Bay to Maria Launched early (my watch had out for coastal waters. Almost Island and Tasman given out) with a moderate sou- immediately after setting off the sou- Peninsula (return) westerly wind and a moderate, westerly front hit with intensity so I southerly swell. Paddled around 17 February 2016 beat my way back to the campsite Dennes Point, keeping to the to wait. Soon after the wind I had spent a few cold days waiting eastern shore of , until for an intense low pressure system, I was off One-Tree Point and then situated just south of Tasmania, to headed across (if only Left: Riedle Bay, ; Right: North-west coast of Maria Island.

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moderated so I set off again. When soft carpet). All I needed to do was Cape Peron I made a beeline for I approached the exit to the ocean I porter some of my gear the short Visscher Island (although it looked saw a large, protected beach on my distance to the campsite – heaven! for all the world to be a cape from right with shacks and realised that (40 kms) that distance). Conditions were very this must be the Chinamans Beach 20 February calm and the scenery on this part of that the local had referred to the the coast (when I eventually arrived) night before! With my perfect campsite I wasn’t was brilliant. I pulled into the bay going anywhere else for the night (another perfect little aquamarine Out into Marion Bay, heading so I paddled my unloaded kayak beach) behind Cape Frederick north, I decided to hug the coast around to Darlington (with all its Hendrick for lunch and the usual for a while until I came up to the convict ruins) where I had lunch, swim. I paddled on the inside of an spectacular Cape Bernier. After after a short side trip up Four to exit the bay and was on a short rest in a protected cove I Creek. After lunch I continued on my way to Pirates Bay. By the time headed out across to Maria Island around the northern end (looking I rounded the point into Pirates Bay and, on finding that the wind had across to ) and a following wind had sprung up dropped, I altered course for Cape down the eastern shore to Riedle and on seeing houses, I decided Peron on the southern tip of Maria Bay. The coastline has spectacular to push on to Fortescue Bay. The Island so as to paddle down the cliffs and even a couple of spring wind had picked up to 25 knots by eastern shore. No sooner had I fed waterfalls that cascade into the the time I entered Fortescue Bay fallen in with the island when the ocean. (more tessellated rocks than you wind picked up again so I turned for could poke a stick at) and again the protection of Shoal Bay on the Walking back up the beach to whipped across the bay with my sail western side of Maria. The strong the campsite I almost trod on a up. It was getting late by the time I wind had swung westerly by the very healthy six-foot tiger snake pitched my tent in the south western time I entered Shoal Bay and I flew (almost perfectly black). I made a corner of the bay. (64 kms) to the beach. With the intense wind mental note to watch more carefully 22 February nothing looked great as a campsite where I walked in future. Another so I landed and walked across the blissful night at one of the prettiest A worrying ‘strong wind’ forecast for isthmus to Riedle Bay and it was campsites I’ve ever known. (43 the following day had me rethinking like a paradise. Off shore winds and kms) my plans for the day, but today was an aquamarine bay with a campsite 21 February calm so I was up early and on the amid a grove of casuarina trees water. The conditions were magical (the needles of which had formed a Awoke to a beautiful morning and about to become more so. As and set off early for the Tasman I approached Cape Hauy I had Below: The Pyramids, Cape Peron, Peninsula. On passing out from no idea that a chasm through the Maria Island

SEPTEMBER 2016 | SALT 41 cliffs would appear. I have never Island. I believe that the sea cliffs Although I didn’t know it at the seen anything as magnificent on here are the tallest in Australia time, I was just about to paddle the water (or anywhere for that (300 metres – North Head is 100). past Shipsterns, one of the most matter) as this channel (I now know Seals were everywhere and on dangerous surf breaks on earth. it is known as the Candlestick and passing between The wind was freshening from Totem Pole for the rock spires and the mainland the seas began the south as I aimed for Wedge on the south side). The channel heaving. It was like the super cycle Island. Wedge Bay was where I is about five metres wide and on of a washing machine. The swells had pencilled in my next campsite entering I was dumbstruck (unlikely, deflect off the island and the sea but the morning broadcast about I know) - a very large mother seal cliffs and create bounce from 360 strong winds for the following day and two pups were lounging about degrees. Real hard going and it had me in two minds (I definitely on a rock inside the channel. The persisted for at least five kilometres didn’t want to cross Storm Bay pups jumped in and followed me – before reducing to just a heavy duty when it was rough). As everything the mother never even woke. And cycle. Across the bay I could see a was in my favour I altered course then the site of the Candlestick (112 sandy beach, which I decided would for Betsey Island, which was clearly

Left to right: Entering channel, Cape Hauy, Tasman NP; Totem Pole and be good spot for lunch. Crescent visible across the bay. It was a very Candlestick, Cape Hauy; Totem Pole. Bay, when I finally arrived, was very long paddle – I was exhausted and welcome – nestled in behind Cape weather beaten (the sun was setting West Arthur and Mount Brown. directly into me) by the time I fell metres) and the Totem Pole (60 in with Bruny Island (I had altered After lunch (and waiting for a lull metres) appeared (as if it wasn’t course again when I could discern in the solid shore dump to launch) already bizarre enough already). Bruny Island further south). Passing I headed for Cape Raoul hoping These dolerite spires have you Dennes Point I made for my old that the bounce wouldn’t be as wondering whether you aren’t campsite at Tinderbox to spend the hectic. Because Cape Raoul is a hallucinating. I would strongly night. (89 kms) narrow point, the swells deflect urge anyone who hasn’t already 23 February down either side creating far less seen this cape to make the effort bounce – fortunately. On rounding A very relaxed 7 km paddle back to because without a doubt, it is worth the cape a sailing catamaran Blackmans Bay along a very scenic every bit of effort. sailed past from behind – a crew coastline. The wind never got up all I passed out into Munroe Bight and member was filming me and said day! hugged the spectacular cliffs all that they would be at the Royal the way to Cape Pillar and Tasman Hobart Yacht Club for a few days.

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Now where will we go?

MARK DABBS AND LISA MCCARTHY

We had just returned to Shute early. This meant we had a few Where is Turkey Bay you may ask? Harbour from the Whitsunday trip days spare before heading home. In Queensland, between Shute led by Owen and Michelle. The Where to go? Harbour and Brisbane. About one day’s drive south. weather had turned foul, strong Out came the road map…mmm… winds and rain for the next four Turkey Beach/Bay. That sounds Lisa and I arrived the following day days, so we returned a few days different! round midday. After a leisurely lunch we sorted gear and packed. Due to the strong winds the trip was going to be a fast sail down the bay, being pushed by a southerly. Fortunately the rain had eased and we had lovely sunshine. Turkey Bay…not much happens there. The locals came out to watch us pack and head off into the blue yonder…time passes slowly. With our very rough road map, navigation was going to be ‘interesting’. Especially as we had no clue where we were heading, what the camp sites would be like, if there were any camp sites and how shallow the water was going to be. One thing we did know, we were too far south for salties! (Crocs!!) With the sails up we flew, until we hit the shallows. It is probably worth noting here that the water is extremely shallow for about 600- 800m from the shore. Any closer in and you scrape bottom. We were unaware of this and it took us a while to realise why we were going so slowly – the bottom was 100mm below us! After one and a half hours we were beginning to get worried. No obvious camp sites. Heaps of mangroves, extremely shallow water, lots of swamp…mmm… maybe we will be sleeping in the kayaks?

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A rocky headland looked promising. Fortunately it was not too bad, only a 100m carry. Even better, there was a flat area above high water that was grassy and had beautiful sand. Fishermen had camped here on numerous occasions and were even thoughtful enough to set up a rain catchment area emptying into a water tank. Shower for the night! Nice! It was still very windy. Using some shade cloth left behind by the previous occupants we rigged a wind shield for the tent. Most necessary! The following day is what some may refer to as ‘slothful’. We managed a 45 minute down-wind paddle/sail to a headland. We had planned on paddling around the point and down the coast but on closer inspection we realised it would involve a lot of dragging of kayaks over the many sand bars, which stretched for a few kilometres. A lovely area to wonder around then headed back to our tents. Into the wind a bit longer for one and a quarter hours paddle. The rest of the day? Inspection of what turned out to be an island we were camping on. Once the tide went out we weren’t connected to the main land. And did the tide go out! Had we arrived yesterday two hours later we would have had a 400m carry! Our final morning and we were off early to beat the wind, forecast to 35 knots. We just made it, and had the tide with us for a change! Yee-hah! Saltiest submission WINNER I’m pleased to announce the very Western route. worthy winner of the ‘Saltiest Rae caught up with Rob Mercer Article’ from Salt #101 was but isn’t modelling her prize. She someone who regularly shares her said “Many thanks to EK, I’m now impressive achievements and trips sporting a new hot green cag.” with Salt readers. On behalf of the club, thanks to Mark and Rob both had to agree Rob Mercer and Mark Sundin of that the winning article in Salt Expedition Kayaks for donating #101 had to be Rae Duffy’s the cag. I’ll be in touch with Rob account of how she came to be and Mark to determine the winner the first solo female to paddle from this edition. May the saltiest across the Bass Strait via the submitter succeed!

EXPEDITION KAYAKS HAS Drop in anytime from 0830 to 3/185 Port Hacking Road, Miranda, NSW 2228 MOVED! 1800 Monday to Fridays. Phone (612) 9559 8688 or mob 0417 924 478

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 44 My New Kayak and Her Maiden Voyages Bass Strait Dec 2015

MICHAEL TAYLOR

I had ordered my new Nadgee Solo could help him transport his kayak tired. Gary was so tired he fell and was to receive it in the coming to the ferry in Tasmania when he asleep on top of his tent before he weeks. I was already a proud owner got there. Gary started conversing could pitch it. We spent the morning of a Valley Nordkapp, but after a with Tim, and after consulting with packing our boats and soon realised previous trip to Tasmania, thought me, had invited him to join our trip. that three was a great number to it better suited to surfing and rock From phone conversations, we all have on the trip because it took gardening than expedition paddling. gained confidence in each other’s three people to carry each loaded The main reason for choosing the ability’s and agreed to join up for the boat. We bid farewell to Tim’s Nadgee was probably that it had trip. brother Brad who lives in Melbourne been tried and tested on some epic I received my Nadgee some time and offered to help us with the car trips. later and set about testing the shuttling. Gary and Tim had quite I had planned to take leave in compartments for leaks and also an audience of admiring fans on the November and December 2015 testing the foot-pump and rudder beach prior to launch. for a trip to Everest Base Camp, in readiness for the trip. I ordered We set off in calm conditions but but went cold on the idea after the a new spraydeck and compass, rounding the cape we were slogging Nepal earthquakes. I decided that and mounted a sail. For a decent into a solid easterly headwind. Once I would do a south coast trip in pre-trip test of my new boat, I did a past the cape the wind reduced trip out to Broughton Island and on my new kayak instead. But then, and we landed at Waterloo Bay this trip I gained the confidence I speaking to my friend Gary Roberts for the night. The next day we needed in my boat and its setup. about my thoughts, he suggested I woke at 3:30am and headed for do a Bass Strait trip. He had done Our final plan slowly came in calm conditions. three trips previously and was very together. My wife Liz and I would The 55km paddle was interrupted encouraging and even dropped catch the ferry to Tasmania, do by some albatross gliding over us some marine charts off to me. I the Frenchman’s Cap walk, then I and a few cargo vessels as we started getting interested in the idea could leave my car in Bridport and passed through the shipping lane. and invited Gary to join me. After fly back to Melbourne where Gary After about nine hours of paddling, some days, he let me know he had and Tim would meet me having and with the island quite close, his leave form approved and was collected my boat and gear in we realised our progress had going to join me. We hadn’t done Sydney the previous night. I arrived substantially slowed and that we much kayaking together previously in Melbourne from Launceston, were in the grip of a strong tidal but had done some backcountry ski after dropping my car off in Bridport current. I remember being quite trips, canyons and rock climbs and with Jeff Jennings. Jeff, a well- humbled by the current knowing we were confident in each other’s known Tasmanian sea kayaker, had the only thing I could do is keep abilities in the outdoors. indicated to Tim in the SK forum paddling for hours more. Stopping Gary saw a message from a QLD that he was available to assist. Jeff for a break, or to wait for someone, sea kayaker on the Sea Kayak was very hospitable to me and gave meant rapidly losing hard earned me some great tips for the trip and Forum by a fellow named Tim distance. By the time we reached sea kayaking generally. McDermott, who was planning the the protected cove, group spread same trip as us only three days We camped at Tidal River that had increased to 3-4 km. This leg of after ours, and was asking if anyone night, arriving very late and very the trip took about 12 hours.

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We got phone reception from the Top two: Gary landing at Hogan Is; lighthouse on the hill and were Tim arriving at Erith Is; treated by the view of hundreds of Opposite: Michael leaving Hogan Is. penguins on our way back to camp. The forecast for the following day was not ideal consisting of strong headwinds. However, the three days after this were forecast to be much worse. These easterlies were becoming irritating in an area which is better known for having relentless westerlies. Waiting on Hogan Island for three or four days would possibly mean running out of water so we needed to get to the (Deal or Erith Islands) the next day where water was available. We therefore made plans for another 3:30am start with the knowledge that if our progress was too slow we could return to Hogan with the wind behind us. We set off from Hogan Island before sun rise into a bleak overcast day. The headwind slowed our progress significantly and we therefore decided to limit our breaks to every 75 minutes rather than the usual 60 minutes. For this leg we agreed to stay closer together due to the conditions and the need to raft up occasionally. Then approaching land, we found ourselves in another very strong tidal current. After paddling against it for some time, we decided to paddle across the current (ferry-gliding) to Wallabi Cove on so we could get out of the current. There we rested a little before setting off for Erith Island hut, hugging the coast whilst battling against choppy confused seas, strong current and a solid headwind. The leg from Hogan Island to the Kent Group (Erith and Deal Islands) was only about 45km, but it was the hardest day of our trip, which took over 12 hours of solid paddling. Having reached the Kent Group, we were very happy because we could now rest and wait for the weather to pass before attempting the next leg to . We relied on weather forecasts from a number of sources on

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our mobile phones since phone invitation to stay in the luxurious The hut at Royden Island was fairly reception can be found on all the workers accommodation on Deal basic but pleasant and spacious. islands in certain spots. Tim was Island. For the next two days we The next day’s forecast was for receiving emails from Karel Vissel, had a great time exploring the 30 knots building to a 40 knot a man from Israel who offers a island and soaking up the relaxing nor-wester later in the day. We weather forecast service to sea atmosphere. On the fourth night, the should have considered that we kayak expeditions. Gary was getting kind caretakers invited us to a lovely were comfortable in the hut and advice from NSWSKC’s David dinner and home brew. We then set had plenty of water and food. In Fisher, and I was using the Bureau our alarms for 3am and got to bed hindsight we should have waited of Meteorology website. On this trip early because the longest leg of the there for another day or two. I came to appreciate that the BOM’s trip was planned for the following Instead, we considered that the forecasts can be quite conservative day. conditions would be better earlier in or worst case. Particularly on our the morning, the 25km to Whitemark The wind had finally changed Hogan to leg when the would be done quite quickly, the and was now a pleasant 10 knots forecast was borderline; the less winds were onto shore and that from the north. Once outside the conservative and more detailed accommodation on Flinders would channel we set our sails for the first sources proved helpful for us to be so much better. So, we packed time on our trip. Our progress was make a decision to paddle. Also, our boats and set off for the town of good and with the help of the sails, we found that receiving emails was Whitemark. I can’t remember what the improved weather conditions easier than accessing websites our plan was for pitching the tents in and being well rested, we found when reception was poor. 40 knot winds. today’s paddle to be significantly On the Kent Group of islands less challenging than the previous We left the lee of the Island and (Deal, Erith & Dover), we were leg. We passed Wrights Rock and were hit by the wind. With our stranded for three days and four as we paddled a sails up we were screaming along nights waiting for the weather bearing to Royden Island, a small and thought we should get to our to clear. The first two nights we island just off the North West coast destination before the forecast 40 stayed in the Erith Island hut which of Flinders. About 8-9 hours into the knots arrived. We had agreed to was very basic accommodation paddle, we again found ourselves meet in the lee of a small cape but but importantly had water tanks. fighting the strong currents and Tim and Gary must have forgotten. The next day the wind picked our progress slowed. When we They seemed to be having too up to probably 25- 30 knots. Tim landed on Royden Island we had much fun, or just desperate to eat and Gary paddled the 2-3 km again been paddling for over 12 at the pub that night. I remember across Murray Passage to Deal hours, and had covered 69km. We having the time of my life rocketing Island. They returned later that had now finished the three long down wave after wave. However, day having been well fed by the crossings of the trip that I was the waves were becoming steeper, Deal Island caretakers (Roger and concerned about and was now quite the wind was increasing, and the Meryl). They had also received an relieved. white caps started washing over

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our boats. Then I saw Tim yell out Having landed safely at a big house before crossing to Clarke Island and before seeing Gary’s upturned boat. with a yacht parked on a slip on the camping at Rebecca Bay. beach, we approached a cottage Tim and I then fought to turn into next to the house and knocked The crossing of Banks Strait was the wind to pull down our sails. on the door with the intention of the last day and we were a bit I gave Gary an assisted rescue requesting a camping spot. The weary of the tides having heard and because his electric pump next thing we knew, we were being stories about strong currents and had failed he had to empty his served tea and cakes by a dear big standing waves. So we wanted cockpit with his spray-deck on and lady, Afna, who must have taken to time our crossing such that we sticking a hand pump down the front pity on us after hearing about our would be approximately in the between his legs. When Gary was harrowing experience on the water middle at slack tide. Jeff Jennings ready I released my firm grip on his that morning. We had landed at a had kindly offered to pick us up boat and not so wisely, we raised place called Blue Rocks and we our sails once more. The wind was at Little Musselroe Bay in the were later also greeted with great absolutely howling at this stage but early afternoon so we had to get kindness from the home owner, we needed to hurry because the another 3:30am start. We landed Luke Toonan, who invited us to stay forecast 40 knots was foremost in on for a short break, at his place. our minds. It wasn’t long before and then as we were nearing our Gary again capsized and exited his We spent the next two days on final destination we had become boat. Then as I was trying to get to Flinders Island waiting for the winds complacent. Not more than a Gary, I noticed that Tim had also to die off. Tim rang his contact Matt, couple of kilometres from Little capsized and exited but was able to who gave us a tour of an Old Butter Musselroe Bay we realised the self-rescue and indicated to me that Factory where he was staying current was picking up significantly he was okay. I then again used my and also lent us his car to visit the and we had to paddle hard to avoid valuable NSWSKC rescue training historical aboriginal settlement at overshooting the little inlet. to get Gary back into his boat. This Wybalenna, to visit the Furneaux time we agreed not to raise sails Museum at Emita and to do the Mt In short, it was an amazing again and to get off the water as Strzelecki summit walk. adventure. We had some quickly as possible. Luckily Flinders challenges that we faced as a team For the remainder of the trip, the Island was only a few kilometres and we all grew as sea kayakers. legs were much shorter and less to our east which was exactly the There was incredible scenery and committing and the weather was direction of the wind and swell. generally our friend. We camped wildlife and we met some very kind At first Gary could not turn to the at Trousers Point at the southern and interesting people. I’d like to east. His rudder had come loose end of Flinders Island and then at thank my paddling companions and it wasn’t until he locked it Thunder and Lightning Bay on the for helping me to make this trip down that he could then turn his south side of Cape . happen. This trip certainly gave me kayak. We made it to shore, all very We then crossed to Preservation the inspiration and confidence to do relieved to be off the water. Island and enjoyed the warm sun more similar trips in the future.

Photo – Tim and Gary sailing past Mt Strzelecki

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | SEPTEMBER 2016 “Unite on the Swan” World paddle craft raft-up record attempt Sunday 10 April 2016 to raise money for the Waroona bushfires. Picture supplied by and permission to reprint by SkyworksWA.