The Trueman and Virginia Schmidt House: Ushering in Midcentury Style

Number 7 December 2018

A Story of Unsuspected Success

The Centennial Rose Garden: Remembering Our Washington State Centennial Celebration

The Military Road in Thurston County $5.00

THURSTON COUNTY HISTORICAL JOURNAL

The Thurston County Historical Journal is dedicated to recording and celebrating the history of Thurston County. The Journal is published by the Olympia Tumwater Foundation as a joint enterprise with the following entities: City of Lacey, City of Olympia, Confederated Tribes of the Chehalis Reservation, Daughters of the American Revolution, Daughters of the Pioneers of Washington/Olympia Chapter, Lacey Historical Society, Old Brewhouse Foundation, Olympia Historical Society and Bigelow House Museum, South Sound Maritime Heritage Association, South Thurston County Historical Society, Thurston County, Tumwater Historical Association, Yelm Prairie Historical Society, and individual donors.

Publisher Editor Olympia Tumwater Foundation Karen L. Johnson John Freedman, Executive Director 360-890-2299 Lee Wojnar, President, Board of Trustees [email protected] 110 Deschutes Parkway SW P.O. Box 4098 Editorial Committee Tumwater, Washington 98501 Drew W. Crooks James S. Hannum 360-943-2550 Janine Gates Erin Quinn Valcho www.olytumfoundation.org

Obtaining a Copy of the Journal

The Journal does not offer a subscription service. To get your own copy, join one of the heritage groups listed at the top of this page. These groups donate to the publication of the Journal, and thus receive copies to pass on to their members. Issues are also available for purchase at the Bigelow House Museum, Crosby House Museum, and Lacey Museum.

Submission Guidelines

The Journal welcomes factual articles dealing with any aspect of Thurston County history. Please contact the editor before submitting an article to determine its suitability for publication. Articles on previously unexplored topics, new interpretations of well-known topics, and personal recollections are preferred. Articles may range in length from 100 words to 10,000 words, and should include source notes and suggested illustrations. Submitted articles will be reviewed by the editorial committee and, if chosen for publication, will be fact-checked and may be edited for length and content. The Journal regrets that authors cannot be monetarily compensated, but they will gain the gratitude of readers and the historical community for their contributions to and appreciation of local history.

Opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the Olympia Tumwater Foundation

ISSN 2474-8048

WHO/WHAT/WHERE IS IT?

The Centennial Rose Garden seen on the back cover is located on the grounds of the 1904 Schmidt House, at 330 Schmidt Place SW in Tumwater. Built on the site of an old tennis court, the garden was established in 1988 when the Olympia Rose Society moved roses from a previous location at the old Olympia Community Center on 4th Avenue in Olympia. See associated article on page 28.

For more information about the Centennial Rose Garden, visit http://olytumfoundation.org/centennial-rose-garden/

Rosa gallica “Officinalis” in bloom in the Centennial Rose Garden. This ancient rose variety has been in cultivation for centuries. Photo by Gary Ritchie.

WHO/WHAT/WHERE IS IT?

A ROTATING FEATURE SHOWCASING ARTIFACTS FROM THURSTON COUNTY HERITAGE GROUPS

This This rose garden contains 215 bushes approximately of 64 rose varieties, some of which have been in cultivation for hundreds, even thousands, of years. The garden is located on an historic site in and Tumwater, is arguably the most rose significant garden and between Tacoma theanswer. for cover back theinside to Turn is? it where know Doyou Portland. Article and photograph submitted by Dr. Gary A. Ritchie, Historian and former President of the Foundation. Garden Centennial of the Chairman currently and Rose Society Olympia Number 7 Table of Contents December 2018

2 The Trueman and Virginia Schmidt House: Ushering in Midcentury Style Lauren Danner

20 A Story of Unsuspected Success Carol B. Hannum

28 The Centennial Rose Garden: Remembering Our Washington State Centennial Celebration Gary A. Ritchie, Ph.D.

38 The Military Road in Thurston County James S. Hannum, M.D.

Back Cover Who/What/Where Is It?

On the cover: The Trueman and Virginia Schmidt house as portrayed in a perspective sketch by architect G. Stacey Bennett. Image courtesy of the National Reg- ister of Historic Places Registration Form for the Schmidt, Trueman and Virginia, House. See article on page 2.

THE TRUEMAN AND VIRGINIA SCHMIDT HOUSE: USHERING IN MIDCENTURY STYLE

Lauren Danner

When Trueman and Virginia Schmidt the founder of the Olympia Brewing decided in the late 1940s to build a Company. Founded in 1896 as the new house for their young family, they Capital Brewing Company, Leopold’s wanted it to be near the Olympia company eventually owned at least Brewery, where Trueman worked in five breweries in the Pacific Northwest the family business, and they wanted and California. The renamed Olympia it to be modern, reflecting in its design Brewing Company (1902) was famed the optimism of the postwar years. for its Olympia Beer, with its trade- mark slogan “It’s the Water.” The To make their vision a reality, the Schmidt family ran the company until Schmidts turned to G. Stacey Bennett, 1983, and over the years became one a young associate at the highly regard- of the most prominent in the Olympia ed local firm Wohleb & Wohleb Archi- area.1 tects. A foundational principle of modern design is that done well, it makes Trueman, known by his nickname life easier. That concept helps explain “Bink,” graduated from Olympia High why the Trueman and Virginia School in 1932 and enrolled at Oregon Schmidt House has stood elegantly, State University, but the Depression little changed, for nearly seven dec- and the uncertainty of the family ades. The first postwar home in the business forced him to return home south Puget Sound region to be added after less than a year.2 When to the National Register of Historic Prohibition ended, Bink and two of his Places, the Schmidt house embodies four brothers, Adolph Jr. (“Bump”) mid-20th-Century America’s unswerv- and Robert (“Bobby”), worked on the ing belief in the technological promise construction crew for the new brewing of the future as interpreted by mem- plant. When the building was finished, bers of two prominent local families. Bink became the Olympia Brewery’s first night-shift engineer.3 TRUEMAN AND VIRGINIA AETZEL SCHMIDT He returned to college in 1936, attend- ing Washington State University to Trueman Leopold Schmidt (born 1913) study architectural engineering. Al- was a grandson of Leopold Schmidt, though involved in engineering activi- ties at WSU,4 Bink did not graduate. 2

Bink and Virginia Schmidt with their children Nick and Judi. Photo courtesy of Judi Schmidt.

He attended the University of Wash- Rossell O’Brien, who moved to the ington for one quarter in 1939, but area in 1870. He married Fanny illness prevented him from taking his Steele, daughter of Alden Hatch final exams, and then his father in- Steele, whose house is the last vited him to go to Europe. Bink stayed remaining pre-statehood residence in in Europe for four months, returning downtown Olympia.7 Alden Hatch to Olympia in mid-1939.5 In 1941 he Steele immigrated to Oregon in 1849, married Virginia Aetzel, the daughter serving as surgeon at several military of George and Helen Aetzel, describing posts in Oregon Territory through the her as “a girl I’ve known almost all my Civil War. He moved to Olympia in life.”6 1870 and was active in civic life until his death in 1902.8 O’Brien, a Civil The marriage of Bink Schmidt and War veteran and early Olympia mayor, Virginia Aetzel in 1941 joined two organized Washington’s first national prominent Olympia families. Virginia guard company in 18839 and is (born 1916) was the granddaughter of reputed to have initiated the custom of 3

standing during “The Star-Spangled WOHLEB & WOHLEB ARCHITECTS Banner.”10 A plaque in downtown Tacoma honors this initiative. Regionally famous as “Olympia’s architect,” Joseph Wohleb moved to O’Brien’s youngest daughter, Helen, Olympia in 1911 and influenced the married George A. Aetzel.11 They lived cityscape for the next four decades. in a house built by Rossell O’Brien at Wohleb designed many of Olympia’s 201 Union Street, now the site of most notable buildings, including Centennial Park and the Daniel Evans several on the Capitol campus, the Centennial Redwood Tree.12 Aetzel was Thurston County Courthouse (1930), vice president of the Olympia Door the Olympia Armory (1939), the Company, which provided the cedar American Legion Hall (1921), the Lord shingles used on the Governor’s Mansion (1923), and the McCleary Mansion,13 and was considered a Mansion (1925).16 His son, Robert, “leading industrial establishment” of graduated from the University of the city.14 Washington in 1939 with an architecture degree and joined his In late 1942, Bink served as warrant father’s practice in 1946. Three years officer in the United States Navy Re- later he became a partner and the serve, posted to Althorp, Alaska. Vir- firm’s name was changed to Wohleb & ginia moved back to her family home Wohleb Architects.17 on Union Street, where their son, Nick, was born in 1943. In mid-1944, Joseph Wohleb’s professional relation- Bink was posted to Corpus Christi, ship with the Schmidt family dates to Texas, and Virginia and Nick moved at least 1919, when Wohleb was hired there until the war ended. Their by the Schmidts to design alterations daughter, Judi, was born there in to their Hotel Deer Lodge in Montana. 1945. In 1946, the Schmidts returned (The Schmidts knew Wohleb prior to to Olympia, living in the Aetzel home, 1919, though, as they belonged to and Bink took up a post as construc- some of the same organizations in tion engineer at the brewery, where he Olympia.)18 In the early 1930s, Wohleb worked for the rest of his career.15 designed the new, post-Prohibition brewery for the Schmidts. The Olym- The war over, with two young children pia Brewery had expanded since the to care for, the Schmidts decided to end of Prohibition; new buildings were build a home that reflected their en- added regularly through the 1960s.19 thusiasm for all things modern. They In 1949, shortly after Bink returned, turned to the father-and-son team of the brewery added a three-story fer- Joseph and Robert Wohleb, old friends mentation and storage building.20 As of the Schmidt family. construction engineer and later super- intendent of construction, Bink would have been heavily involved in expan-

sion plans and building design deci- logic feature that would provide a sions,21 which would have brought peaceful view from the back of the him into regular contact with both house. Bink’s brother Adolph Jr. lived Wohlebs. on the next block at 3016 Maringo in a house constructed in 1939. Another THE SCHMIDTS BRING MODERNISM TO brother, Robert, lived in a 1941 THE NEIGHBORHOOD Tumwater Lumber Company home two blocks east at 703 Governor Postwar Olympia bustled. From 1940 Stevens.28 By 1949, relatively few lots to 1950, the city’s population grew to remained unbuilt, and the City nearly 16,000 residents, a 19 percent planned a new sewer system to increase.22 Buildings sprouted every- accommodate development. Every- where and became a common feature thing from groceries to hardware to in The Daily Olympian, which admitted gasoline was available within a half- it could not keep up with reporting mile. Old Highway 99, the main road new construction.23 A severe earth- connecting Seattle to Portland before quake in April 1949 further spurred Interstate 5 was built, passed a block the construction boom, as several to the west.29 downtown buildings were irreparably damaged and replaced with modern Bink and Virginia led active social designs. Builders urged residents to lives in Olympia, appearing numerous save bricks, which were already in times in society columns. They short supply.24 The state began con- chaired the decorating committee for struction of the dam creating Capitol the 1949 New Year’s Eve dance at the Lake in 1950.25 A “burst of civic Olympia Country and Golf Club, se- pride”26 accompanied Olympia’s lecting “a modern decorators theme. centennial celebration in May of that Panels in chartreuse, American Beau- year, and The Daily Olympian featured ty and turquoise will be used with two full-page spreads on the Schmidt- painted branches.”30 The news item owned Olympia Brewing Company.27 suggests the Schmidts were interested in modern design and reportedly they Bink and Virginia chose the same asked Stacey Bennett, an associate southeast area as several of Bink’s re- with Wohleb & Wohleb Architects, to latives for their house. Straddling the help them realize a truly modern Olympia-Tumwater border, the area home. was convenient to the brewery three- quarters of a mile south on Capitol G. STACEY BENNETT Boulevard. A lot on the northeast corner of Governor Stevens Avenue and a A New Hampshire native, Gordon stubby dead-end called the Bates Ex- Stacey Bennett (born 1916) studied tension seemed ideal. It looked into a structural engineering at Boston’s rain-fed, wooded glacial kettle, a geo- Wentworth Institute, graduating in

1938. He began architecture studies at the University of Oregon in 1939, but was interrupted by World War II. During the war he served in the Army field artillery unit and rose to the rank of 1st Lieutenant (1940-44). After the war he returned to the University of Oregon and eventually finished his B.A. in Architecture in 1946, receiving his Washington license the same year. Through his long career, Bennett was active in the Washington State architecture community, serving on the State Legislative Committee of the American Institute of Architects, the Washington State Architectural Reg- istration Board, and the State Admin- istration Committee of the Washington State Council of Architects.31

Before finishing his degree, Bennett had worked for the Wohlebs during summer vacation, and joined the firm full-time in 1947.32 He was hired as an Architect G. Stacey Bennett designed associate, not quite a full partner, but the Schmidt house. Photo courtesy of shared in the responsibilities for de- Washington State Department of Ar- sign work, implementation and con- chaeology and Historic Preservation. struction. Bennett and the firm created many of the area’s notable mid- Materials were used creatively be- century buildings, including down- cause even four years after World War town’s Miller’s Department Store, II ended, some were in short supply. which opened just after the 1949 Bennett is said to have designed the earthquake, and Goldberg’s Furniture house, which is, if not Bennett’s earli- Store, which replaced a quake- est residential commission, one of his damaged building.33 earliest and one that foreshadows his lasting influence on Olympia architec- Bink and Virginia’s daughter, Judi ture.35 The Schmidts’ daughter-in-law Schmidt, recalled that her parents Victoria wrote that Virginia’s experi- worked closely with Bennett on the ence as a University of Washington design of their new house, lavishing drama major helped her see the house attention on every detail. “They were as a stage set and apply design princi- so proud of that house,” she said.34 ples accordingly.36

THE HOUSE that the view from the main floor of the home looks into the middle and Together, Bennett and the Schmidts upper canopies of surrounding trees. created an innovative residence that is remarkable in its attention to detail. The house is constructed to take ad- As Olympia experienced a building vantage of this challenging site, with boom in the years after World War II, the main social spaces opening to a this house exemplified the influence of tranquil greenbelt view in the back. Modernism in residential structures. The living room’s bank of windows Cutting-edge features included radiant creates a wall-length, seasonally heat, cork floors, one of the earliest changing landscape mural. The flag- dishwashers in Olympia, an intercom stone patio and bench railing are an- system, a sprinkler system, landscape gled to promote the view northeast to- lighting, a ventilation system with ad- ward the kettle, instead of due east as justable louvered screens, motorized the windows face. drapes, an automatic coat closet light, and extra-thick walls in the main living area that muted sound in the bedroom wing. Ac- cording to the third owner, the house was considered a “showplace” when it was built.37

The two-story house sits on the rim of a glacial kettle, a geographic feature common in Thurston County and formed by large chunks of ice that broke off as glaciers retreated in prehistoric times. As the ice melted, it created deep kettles or pot- holes filled with water. To- day, these kettles may be spring-fed or, as is the case on this site, dry during the summer months and filled during the rainy winter.38 The kettle lies to the north- Site plan for the Schmidt house. Image courtesy of east of the house, and the Washington State Department of Archaeology and land drops so steeply into it Historic Preservation.

A perspective of the Schmidt house from Governor Stevens Drive. From this vantage point, the house appears to be only one story high. Sketch by G. Stacey Bennett. Image courtesy of the National Register of Historic Places Registration Form for the Schmidt, Trueman and Virginia, House.

The house comprises two stories of explicit the connection between inside living space, but from the street, there and outside spaces. The exterior is is no indication of the lower level or seen as an extension of interior living, the steep drop-off in the rear. The en- and while this is relatively easy to ac- tire lower level opens out into the low- complish in sunny California, it is er yard, which features a manmade more difficult in the maritime Pacific pond with waterfall that is likely one Northwest, characterized by a months- of the oldest residential water features long rainy, albeit temperate, climate. in Olympia.39 On the south end of the In the Schmidt residence, this blurring lower yard, a stairway composed of is achieved in a number of ways. stones salvaged from the Old State Capitol after the 1949 earthquake First, large plate-glass windows domi- connects to the upper level and a nate the back of the house, drawing small brick patio.40 In the upper yard, the eye outdoors. Even on rainy days, many large boulders punctuate the the view is not oppressive but blends landscaping, inspiring the Schmidts to with the interior to create an atmos- start referring to the house as phere of tranquility. In the master “Bedrock” after The Flintstones televi- bedroom, an outside wall is angled so sion show that first aired in 1960.41 that a large window looks straight into the trees. The room is designed so that EXTERIOR-INTERIOR CONNECTION the bed must be placed on the oppo- site wall, ensuring that occupants The blurring of exterior and interior is wake every morning to a forest view. typical of Modern style, which makes

Second, a half-dozen exterior doors Bennett placed ventilation panels un- provide access to the outdoors, four of der projecting box windows in the bed- them to the rear of the house. When rooms and two bathrooms, but ac- open, windows and doors admit the cording to the third owner, these did musical sound of the waterfall in the not function as planned and were re- pond anchoring the northeast corner placed by modern screened versions. of the property. Bennett considered The projecting windows are smaller the roof an umbrella over the house than those in the living areas, to indi- and typically designed eave overhangs cate the private nature of the rooms at least four feet deep.42 At the they grace and to offset the strong Schmidt residence, such overhangs western sun in the summertime. At over the patio and front porch meas- the front entry, two banks of floor-to- ure more than five feet deep, providing ceiling windows provide an asymmet- shelter in inclement weather year- rical, Modern element, admitting after- round. Overhangs on the west and noon light. south sides of the house provide shade and mitigate overheated bed- Fourth, materials and colors flow rooms in the summertime. seamlessly from inside to out and even through the house. The variegated Third, several windows feature lou- flagstone of the front walkway contin- vered screens designed to allow fresh ues on the back patio. The flagstone air to circulate through the home. grout is tinted pale gray-green and

The Schmidt house under construction. Photo courtesy of Judi Schmidt.

matches the tile in the front entry and the tinted concrete of the front porch. Exterior brick and vertical cedar shake continue to the interior in several rooms.

GEOMETRIC THEMES

The Modern aesthetic is readily seen in the house’s horizontal/ vertical and square/ circle geometric themes. From the Bedrooms feature small projecting box windows. Photo street, the house courtesy of author. appears to be a one- story, low-slung structure with a portions of the exterior. The grasscloth horizontal emphasis. The low-pitched wallpaper in the entryway has a verti- roof, large overhangs, exterior brick, cal grain. Vertical elements are also and projecting windows all contribute found in the tall china cabinets built to the horizontality. In the back, the into the kitchen wing hallway, the tall long flagstone patio with its strongly windows in the main living room, and defined integrated-seat railing and the storage cabinets in the dining brick exterior emphasize the area. These are set off by tall windows horizontal. Inside, horizontally laid of vertical-grained reed glass that al- brick is found in the living room, rec low ambient light into the hallway and room, master bedroom, and utility refract artificial light into the dining room. Long bookshelves in the living area at night. room and rec room, as well as a ribbon of storage cupboards in the Squares dominate the entry and pow- bedroom wing hallway and an der room. A double bank of floor-to- uninterrupted counter in the utility ceiling square windows next to the room, add horizontal elements. The front door is paired with a bank of sin- band of tall windows in the living room gle square windows made of translu- creates a horizontal panoramic cent pleated glass in the adjacent perspective on the outdoors. powder room. The colored concrete porch is stamped into squares, and Verticality is evident in the single- the ceramic entry tiles and cork pow- panel cedar shake used inside and on der room floor tiles are square. Interior

and exterior ceiling lights are square the only ornamentation in the main as well. living spaces besides window and door trim and the natural texture of wall Circles create a contrast to the materials. Cupboards set into the wall straight lines that characterize much along the stairs also feature a smaller of the house. The door pulls on the version of these dish pulls. The strik- cabinets in the dining area, the kitch- ing circular front doorknob, placed in en and bedroom hallways, and the liv- the middle of the door, is matched in ing room cabinet are all custom-made miniature by the custom doorbell and in a dish shape. These pulls provide provides a focal point for visitors ap-

The kitchen as it was originally designed. The cabinets were made by Western Metalcraft, a business which occupied the old Olympia Brewery buildings at the foot of the Deschutes River falls. These cabinets were replaced by a subsequent owner. Photo courtesy of Washington State Archives.

well as Gold- berg’s Furni- ture (1950), the State The- ater (1949), Olympia Oil & Wood Prod- u c t s / R o c k - w a y - L e l a n d B u i l d i n g (1941), and the Keeton F u r n i t u r e C o m p a n y B u i l d i n g (circa 1950). Other notable Homann projects included the Simpson Logging Com- Details in the dining room cabinetry include dish-shaped pulls on pany Office doors and drawers. Photo courtesy of author. (1949) in Shelton, Roo- proaching the house. In the rec room, sevelt Elementary School (circa 1952) a half-circle copper hood ventilates a in Olympia, and Baran Hall and the replacement gas fireplace. The half- Faculty Building (1960) at Saint Mar- circle is repeated in the shape of the tin’s College in Lacey.43 Respected and TV shelf on the same wall. The kitchen well-liked by the community, Homann counter ends in a curved circular pen- was elected the first mayor of Lacey insula, a form that is original to the when the community was incorpo- house. rated in 1966.

CONSTRUCTION MODERNISM LAUNCHED

The Schmidts hired Lacey contractor The completion of the Schmidt resi- A. G. Homann (1897-1975) to build dence marked a sea change in archi- the house, which cost $23,000, or tectural design in Olympia. The Mod- nearly $250,000 in 2018 dollars. ern aesthetic was firmly planted, and Homann constructed numerous other many residential and commercial Wohleb-designed buildings, including structures built after 1950 exemplified several structures at the brewery, as the trend.

Stacey Bennett went on to “set the ar- • Henry Berschauer House, 504 East chitectural standard” for Olympia dur- 18th Street (1961) ing the 1950s and 1960s.44 Former •Edward Duley House, 3220 French colleague Scott Anderson said, “Not all Lane NW (1963) architects are designers. Stacey was •Dick Lewis Pontiac-Cadillac Dealer- an architect, and he was a designer.” ship, 1100 Plum Street (1964) In 1961, he left the Wohleb firm and •Carriage Inn, 1211 Quince Street opened his own practice, where his (1965) three-martini lunches at the Tyee Res- •L. P. Brown Elementary School, 2000 taurant in Tumwater (now the site of a 26th Avenue NW (1965) Fred Meyer store) were well-known.45 •Capital Center Building, 410 W 5th In 1962 Bennett took on a partner, Avenue (1966) Steve Johnson, and the name of the •Olympia Federal Savings & Loan, 421 firm was changed to Bennett & John- Capitol Way N (1967) son. That firm became Bennett, Johnson, Slenes & Smith (BJSS) in 1983, and today is called Ambia.46 No- table Bennett designs from the 1950s and 1960s in Olympia include:

•G. Stacey Bennett House, French Road NW (1952) •Norman and Isa- belle Benner House, 512 Sher- man Street SW (1959) • M e d i c a l A r t s Building, 1015 W 4th Avenue (1961) •John Berschauer House, 2606 Fir Street SE (1961) The copper fireplace hood at the left and TV shelf at the •Truman Price right comprise some of the circular design elements in the House, 1705 5th house. Photo courtesy of Judi Schmidt. Street SW (1961)

•Washington Mutual Savings Bank, Bink and Virginia Schmidt lived in the 825 Capitol Way S (1968) Maringo Street house until 1973, •Washington State Employees Credit when they moved to a house near the Union, 502 Union Avenue SE (1968) Olympia Country and Golf Club, •Pioneer Elementary School, 1655 where both actively participated in Carlyon Avenue SE (1969) club events. When the club expanded with an 18-hole course in 1958, Bink Robert Wohleb developed a specialty helped facilitate the construction of a in brewery design, working with the swimming pool there.52 Since the late Schmidts and clients across the coun- 1970s, the club has celebrated the try on new cellars and brewhouses in Schmidts’ contributions with the Bink the 1950s and 1960s.47 His notewor- Schmidt Classic, a men’s invitational thy designs include the State Theater golf tournament, and “the Goozey,” a (1949), several houses in the Stratford nine-hole women’s tournament named Place Addition, and Olympia City Hall for Virginia, whose grandchildren (1966). After the 1958 death of his fa- called her “Goozie.” A dinner and re- ther, Robert continued the firm as ception during the tournament week- Robert Wohleb & Associates. He died end honor the Schmidts. Bink died of in a boating accident in 1966. a heart attack in 1979 and Virginia passed away in 2002. Both are in- After grain rationing for World War II terred in Masonic Memorial Park in was lifted, the Olympia Brewery grew Tumwater. rapidly, producing nearly 600,000 barrels in 1950 and over twice that In 2015, their innovative, Modern number in 1960.48 In August 1950, house was added to the National Reg- the brewery began producing beer in ister of Historic Places, the Washing- cans, adding a new option to its kegs, ton State Register of Historic Places, quarts, and iconic “stubby” bottles.49 and the City of Olympia Heritage Reg- By the mid-1950s, Bink was a vice ister. It won the City of Olympia’s His- president of the brewery and had one toric Preservation Award the same patent to his name, a cardboard car- year. Today the house is valued as an ton designed to make can removal architectural emblem of mid-century easier.50 In 1963 he became adminis- optimism and progress brought into trative vice president, a position he being by Bennett and the Schmidts. held until retiring in 1975. A founding ______member of The Evergreen State Col- lege Board of Trustees in 1967 (before NOTES the campus site had been selected), Bink served as chair in 1973-1974 1 “75th Anniversary: Olympia Brewing and retired in 1976.51 Company.” Tumwater, WA: Olympia Brewing Company, 1971. The Schmidts’ Western Hotels evolved into

present -day Westin Hotels, and their Directory . Detroit: R. L. Polk Co., Seattle-to-Portland bus line became 1939, page 283. Schmidt is listed as a part of Greyhound. Gary Flynn, student, living with Adolph Schmidt, “History of the Olympia Brewing Sr. at 1616 Water Street. Company (1902-2003) Established as the Capital Brewing Company (1896- 6 “Bink Schmidt Feature.” 1902),” Brewery Gems, http:// www.brewerygems.com/olympia.htm 7 “Steele House,” Olympia Historical (accessed November 29, 2014). Society and Bigelow House Museum, https://olympiahistory.org/steele- 2 “Bink Schmidt Feature,” The house/ (accessed September 15, Evergreen State College, http:// 2018); and T. R. Ingham, “Some of the archives.evergreen.edu/1986/1986- Early Doctors of Olympia,” Olympia 03%20Newsreleases/Scans/1974- Historical Society and Bigelow House 1975/1974-477.pdf (accessed Sep- Museum, https://olympiahistory.org/ tember 13, 2018). Schmidt was a early-doctors/ (accessed September founding member of the Board of 15, 2018). Trustees of The Evergreen State College. He recalled that his “expertise 8 “Details: Alden Hatch Steele Papers, in architectural engineering was what 1849-1884,” Oregon Historical Society [I] hoped to contribute to Evergreen, Research Center, h t t p : / / which did not yet have a site, much beta.worldcat.org/archivegrid/ less any buildings.” “Bink Schmidt collection/data/62784784 (accessed Feature,” “Minutes of the Board of November 30, 2014). Trustees, New Four Year State

College,” August 30, 1967, The 9 “Selected Transcriptions and Images Evergreen State College, August 20, from Olympia Tribune Souvenir Issue 1967, Minutes; and Minutes of Special 1891,” Olympia Historical Society and Meeting of the Board of Trustees of Bigelow House Museum, http:// The Evergreen State College, April 6, olympiahistory.org/selected - 1976, The Evergreen State College. transcriptions-from-olympia-tribune-

souvenir-issue-1891/ (accessed No- 3 “Bink Schmidt Feature.” vember 30, 2014).

4 “Ball Tickets Go on Sale Tomorrow.” 10 Paula Wissel, “Tacoma Man the Washington State Evergreen, March 2, Reason We Stand for Star Spangled 1938, page 1. Schmidt was a member Banner,” radio (July 4, 2013: KPLU, of the committee for the annual Engi- Tacoma), http://www.knkx.org/post/ neers’ Ball. tacoma-icon-reason-we-stand-star- spangled-banner (accessed September 5 “Bink Schmidt Feature;” and 14, 2018); and Thomas Fleming, “Why Olympia, Washington: Polk City We Stand for the Star-Spangled 15

Banner,” Boys’ Life, January 1986, The Coast, March 1909, pages 163- page 21. A recent history of the 166. national anthem disputes this story: “Though the story about O’Brien 15 “Bink Schmidt Feature;” Olympia, enjoys widespread credence, the Washington: Polk City Directory (1946), likelihood of it being true is almost page 306, (1947-48), page 309, (1949), nil.” Marc Ferris, Star-Spangled page 342. Banner: The Unlikely Story of America’s National Anthem. Baltimore: 16 “Joseph H. Wohleb, 1887-1958,” Johns Hopkins University Press, Department of Archaeology and 2014, page 74. Historic Preservation, http://www. dahp.wa.gov/learn-and-research/ 11 “Biographies: Dr. Alden Hatch architect-biographies/joseph -h- Steele,” Thurston County, Washing- wohleb (accessed December 20, 2014); ton, Genealogy and History, Genealogy Dawn Maddox, “Joseph Wohleb: Trails, http://genealogytrails.com/ Resident Architect of the State’s wash/thurston/bio2.html (accessed Capital,” Landmarks III, no. 4, 1985. September 14, 2018); and Georgiana Mitchell Blankenship, Early History of 17 Michael C. Houser, “Wohleb, Robert Thurston County, Washington, Olym- H. 1916-1966.” DOCOMOMO-WEWA, pia: n.p., 1914, page 243. http://www.docomomo-wewa.org/ architects_detail.php?id=120 12 “Centennial Park/Evans Centennial (accessed December 20, 2014). Tree/Rossell O’Brien House Site,” Olympia Historical Society and 18 Hotel Deer Lodge construction Bigelow House Museum, http:// plans, ID# 1223-1226, Plans & Maps, olympiahistory.org/centennial - Olympia Brewing Company Archives, parkevans-centennial-treerossell- Olympia Tumwater Foundation. o b r i e n - h o u s e - site/ (accessed

September 16, 2018). 19 “Digest of Olympia Progress.” It’s the

Water News. Tumwater, WA: Olympia 13 “Governor’s Mansion,” , HistoryLink Brewing Company, June-July 1969, http://www.historylink.org/File/9048 pages 12-18. (accessed September 16, 2018).

20 “Brewery Constructs New Addition.” 14 Edward Garner Jones, The Orego- The Daily Olympian, October 24, 1949, nian’s Handbook of the Pacific North- page 1. . Portland, OR: The Oregonian west Publishing Company, 1894, page 338; 21 Olympia, Washington: Polk City Di- “With the Washington Sawmills,” The rectory, (1947-48), page 309; (1949), Timberman, March 1910, page 27; page 342; (1951-52), page 294. “Commercial and Industrial Interests,”

22 U.S. Census Bureau, “Publications,” Shopping District” (ad). The Daily Census of Population and Housing, Olympian, April 7, 1950, page 3; www.census.gov/prod/www/decen “Wildwood Grocery” (ad). The Daily nial.html (accessed November 23, Olympian, October 19, 1950, page 13. 2014); “Continued Northwest Growth is Predicted.” The Daily Olympian, 30 “Here and There.” The Daily Olympi- September 14, 1950, page 9. an, December 29, 1949, page 5. See also “Here and There” on these dates: 23 “Fine Homes Constructed Here.” The April 17, 1949, page 10; September 4, Daily Olympian, June 11, 1950, page 1949, page 7; May 17, 1950, page 9; 9; “Beautiful New State Theater Will August 6, 1950, page 15; September be Opened This Evening.” The Daily 10, 1950, page 19; and April 22, 1951, Olympian, November 22, 1949, page 3. page 18.

31 24 “Save Bricks! Builders Urge.” The National Council of Architectural Daily Olympian, April 13, 1949, page Registration Boards, “Information 1. Submitted by Applicant as to Training, Experience, and Professional Practice,” September 18, 1961, Collection of Mi- 25 “Olympians Urge Quick Start on chael Houser, Washington State De- DesChutes Basin Road Around New partment of Archaeology and Historic Lake’s West Shore.” The Daily Olympi- Preservation. In addition to architec- an, July 27, 1950, page 1. ture, Bennett was passionate about fly

fishing. “G. Stacey Bennett.” The 26 “Building a Capital City: Olympia’s Olympian, December 25, 1998, page Past Revealed Through Its Historic Ar- B4; “Anglers Prepare Gear for the Big chitecture.” Olympia: Olympia Com- Catch,” The Daily Olympian, August 6, munity Planning and Development De- 1950, page 13. partment, Advance Planning and His- toric Preservation, 2000, page 69. 32 “G. Stacey Bennett,” History and Organization: Wohleb & Wohleb and 27 “A Graphic Review of a Pioneer Associates, Architects and Engineers, Olympia Industry Established 1896.” Olympia, Washington, 1955, Wohleb The Daily Olympian, May 1, 1950, & Wohleb, Architects Reference File, page 1; “Splendid Water Gives Rise to Box 14, University of Washington Brewery Here.” The Daily Olympian, Special Collections; and “Bennett, May 1, 1950, page 10. Gordon S. (1916-1998),” DOCOMOMO -WEWA, http://www.docomomo- 28 “Building a Capital City,” page 72. wewa.org/architects_detail.php?id=94 (accessed November 30, 2014). 29 “Carlyon Area Sewer Job Bids Asked.” The Daily Olympian, March 17, 1950, page 1; “Tumwater Square

33 “Miller’s: Olympia’s Modern, New https://www.dnr.wa.gov/ Department Store” (ad). The Daily publications/ger_presentations_coe_ Olympian, April 28, 1949, page 22. glacial_landforms_puget_lowland.pdf (accessed September 20, 2018). 34 Judi Schmidt, telephone conversa- tion with the author, April 24, 2014. 39 Interview with Nature Perfect Land- Schmidt was married in Olympia in scaping, November 2015. September 1968 and held her wedding reception in the house. Her husband, 40 “Capitol Task To Be Rushed.” The Roger Pearsall, was music director for Daily Olympian, May 4, 1949, page 10. KABC in Los Angeles. The station sent The article notes that Wohleb & a film crew to Olympia, and Good Day Wohleb was selected to oversee the L.A. host Jerry Dexter narrated a ten- repairs, and A. G. Homann was minute segment about the wedding selected as contractor. It was likely and reception that includes interviews Homann who brought the salvaged with Judi, Virginia, and others. stones to the Schmidt House. Adolph Schmidt, Roger Pearsall & Ju- di Schmidt Wedding Day, video, 9:48, 41 Neumaier, “The House,” page 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=G-9aIUygi_8 (accessed November 42 "Mid-Twentieth Century Olympia: A 28, 2012). Context Statement on Local History and Modern Architecture, 1945-1975,” 35 Architectural drawings for the house April 2008, page 89, http:// do not indicate who at Wohleb & olympiawa.gov/city-services/historic- Wohleb designed the house, but Judi preservation.aspx (accessed Septem- and others familiar with the structure ber 12, 2018); interview with Scott An- attribute it solely to Bennett. derson and Gretchen Sturtevant, De- cember 16, 2014. 36 Personal communication from Victo- ria Schmidt, August 26, 2015. 43 Builders of Washington, Building & Trade Publications, no date. Section 37 Roger Neumaier, “The House at on A. G. Homann. 2932 Maringo,” 1999, collection of the author. This detailed narrative was 44 “Mid-Twentieth Century Olympia: A prepared by the third owner of the Context Statement On Local History house. “Home on Range is Gay Kitch- And Modern Architecture, 1945- en Theme Song for Olympia House- 1975,” Olympia Heritage Commission, wives.” The Daily Olympian, June 4, 2008, page 58. 1950, page 13. 45 Anderson and Sturtevant interview. 38 “Glacial Landforms of the Puget Lowland.” Washington State Depart- 46 “Bennett, Gordon S. (1916-1998),” ment of Natural Resources, 2017, DOCOMOMO-WEWA. 18

47 Stevenson and Schreck, “ O l y m p i a B r e w e r y Report.”

48 “President’s Message to Stockholders at Annual Meeting of O l y m p i a Brewing Com- pany.” April 10, 1951; and “President’s Message De- livered at the A n n u a l Stockholders’ M e e t i n g . ” April 11, 1961. Both sources from In 1967, holiday decorations graced the circular and horizontal the Olympia elements of the front entry. Photo courtesy of Judi Schmidt. Brewing Com- pany Corporate Archives, Olympia 52 Anderson and Sturtevant interview. Tumwater Foundation. ______

49 “Beer in Cans for Brewery Here Re- Modern architecture enthusiast Lauren ported,” The Daily Olympian, August Danner lives in Olympia, where she 14, 1950, page 3. writes about public lands, outdoor rec- reation, and environmental history at 50 Trueman L. Schmidt, 1956, Paper- laurendanner.com. She and her hus- board Can Carton, U.S. Patent band reside in the Bink and Virginia 2754047 A. Schmidt house. ______51 “The Evergreen State College News- letter,” April 1976, http://archives. evergreen.edu/1972/1972-07/Presi dent/College%20Relations/TESC_ Newsletter/1976_April.pdf (accessed September 12, 2018). 19

A STORY OF UNSUSPECTED SUCCESS

Carol Bateman Hannum

This true story begins when I met Ann Morgan in the 1990s in Olympia, Washington.1 She was born on April 22, 1913 to Finnish parents, Axel and Mary Nikkola Raiha, in the far northwest corner of Michigan, in a small town called Stambaugh.2 She was raised with four sisters and a brother who all worked on the family farm. Her 1931 graduation from high school and her early adulthood coincided with the Great Depression, making employment a challenge. She found odd jobs as a maid but without steady work she did what many other Mid- westerners did in the same situation— she headed west in search of work.

CLEMONS LOGGING CAMP

In 1935, Ann’s parents put her on a train near her home in Michigan. She changed trains in Chicago and again in Seattle. Her destination was Olym- pia, Washington where she was met by friends of a cousin who put her up while she searched for work. The cousin recommended a hiring hall Ann Morgan and daughter Mary Ann, where the Clemons Logging Company 1944. Photo courtesy of Mary Wurzer. was looking for a cooking crew, waitresses, and timbermen. She was hired own logging railroads into remote as a flunky, a nickname loggers as- landholdings. Ann traveled by railroad signed to cookhouse waitresses.3 to a camp called Wildwood, above Elma. She and the other waitresses By 1900, larger timber companies had arose at 4:30 every morning to prepare absorbed smaller ones and built their the dining hall for breakfast. She 20

worked through the evening meal and clean- up. For this she received room, board, and $50 per month. She lived in a railroad car bunkhouse with other waitresses. She worked for six weeks before she received a day off.

Company policy prohib- ited flunkies from frat- ernizing with loggers, but that did not stop the loggers and waitresses from making plans to meet on their day off. They would take Speeders like the one above were used to transport speeders or crummies loggers and other camp workers between camps and (small trolleys that ran towns. Photo courtesy of Peter J. Replinger. on rails) into town for a night out. Ann met Bill Tyson, who pily ever after, but logging is a danger- was in her words, “a handsome red- ous occupation. In fact, in the first headed Irishman” at the camp. He was year that records were kept for Work- a side rod4 (assistant foreman) and man’s Compensation, nearly half of selective logger5 and had come west the work-related accidents in Wash- from Wisconsin for the same reason as ington were within the timber indus- Ann did—to find work. try. Two years after they married, Bill was hit on the back of the head by a JOY AND TRAGEDY snapping branch while felling a tree. His crew closed down the operation Ann married her red-headed Irishman and carried him out of the woods to a on May 14, 1938.6 He took a new job speeder, brought him into camp and with the Polson Logging Company7 at took him to his home. He was “not in a camp in a remote location above his right mind” according to Ann. She Lake Quinault. They settled down to tended him for three days, but he be- an isolated life on what was left of the came worse. She found a friend who frontier with their extended family of owned a car and they took him to the fellow timbermen. There, in 1940, they nearest hospital in Aberdeen. He died had a daughter, Mary Ann Tyson.8 five days later at 32 years of age. Their daughter, Mary Ann, was not even two I wish I could say that they lived hap- months old.9 21

The Irishman’s crew raised $100 to were reported statewide. In Thurston help pay for his funeral and burial. County, they included injuries and When asked if she felt at all bitter deaths at Richardson’s Shingle Mill in about the great distance from profes- Olympia, White Logging Company, sional medical care, the lack of any Avery’s Logging Camp, Westside Mill, medical care at the remote camp, or and Black Lake Mill.11 the delay in getting him to a hospital, Ann replied “No, that was just the way One of the largest logging camps in it was.” Thurston County at the beginning of the 20th Century was operated by the CONDITIONS IN THE TIMBER INDUSTRY Black Hills Logging Company, which acquired timber holdings in Thurston In 1916, an article “Sanitation and County in 1899. The owners were Sol Hygiene for Logging Camps” by Dr. M. Simpson, Thomas Bordeaux, and M. J. Shields appeared in The Timber- A. Healy.12 man, a trade journal for loggers. It stated: “Without physicians and infir- Olympia became the center for the log- maries, the men, if injured, were ging industry in a variety of ways. It crudely but tenderly cared for by men was a major distribution center for and women. And, in case of severe ac- equipment and supplies. Olympia cidents, the camp would be shut down Hardware was one such business. and everyone would do all in their Steamboats ran supplies and provi- power to aid the one or more in- sions between Olympia, Shelton, and jured.”10 This was standard practice in other ports around Puget Sound.13 the 19th Century and common into the 20th Century in the more remote Olympia’s St. Peter Hospital was the camps in Thurston, Mason, Grays trauma center for injured loggers. Be- Harbor, and Lewis Counties. In places fore there was a highway to Shelton, where there were no roads, the logging injured loggers were taken to Shelton railroad was the only lifeline. on a railcar where they remained at the Shelton Hotel until the next As early as 1900, the Washington Bu- steamboat arrived. The steamer S. G. reau of Labor and Statistics began Simpson hauled passengers and keeping records on logging industry freight, and acted as a water ambu- accidents in the state. In Thurston lance. Sol Simpson subsidized a County, injuries and deaths occurred healthcare plan for loggers through an at six camps and mills, including arrangement with the Sisters of Provi- Black Hills Logging Company Camp, dence, by providing an insurance poli- Gate Shingle Mill, Olympia Door Com- cy for each worker. He deducted 75 pany, Westside Mill, Avery’s Logging cents a month from each worker’s pay Camp and Mason County Logging and matched it. This fund covered the Company Camp (in Thurston County). cost of medical care for injured loggers The next year, 228 logging accidents at St. Peter Hospital.14 22

Top: St. Peter’s Hospital on the west side of Olympia, circa 1928. The hospital served as the trauma center for injured loggers. 72.A2.2.

Bottom: Surgery at St. Peter’s Hospital, 1924. 72.C26.006.

Both photos courtesy of Providence Archives, Seattle, Washington. 23

Mark Reed, an Olympia native, was the son of Thomas Milburne Reed who came to Olympia as a Wells Fargo agent when Washington was still a territory. Mark Reed eventually developed an interest in improving the lot of loggers. He visited his first logging camp in the 1890s while an agent for C. J. Lord, the president of Capitol Na- tional Bank in Olympia. Reed was tasked with overseeing the bank’s interest in a bankrupt logging camp in Mason County. The following was included in his report: “When I arrived at camp, carrying my blankets, I reported to the foreman and asked him where I should go. He pointed to a bunkhouse and told me I could leave my blankets there, but I would have to build my own bunk. I asked for lumber and he told me to find some at the hog lot. I built something like a bunk, and then went down to the barn to rustle up some straw to fill it. Over this, I spread my blankets. That night Mark Reed of Olympia ran the Simpson the hard boards and the smell of hogs Timber Company, and instituted many kept me awake for a long time.” Reed measures to improve working condi- later said that he vowed then and tions and health care for loggers. Photo there that if he ever had charge of a LL-2176 courtesy of Peter J. Replinger. camp, he would provide furnishings for the men who worked in the woods. and cold, electric lights, excellent He got his wish when he became the bunkhouses, a good school, and a 4-L son-in-law of the founder of the Simp- hall.”16 son Timber Company, and eventually ran the company.15 LEGISLATION TO IMPROVE CONDITIONS

The Simpson Timber Company was Olympia was also the seat of legisla- credited with having the cleanest and tive action to improve the working best-furnished camps in Washington. conditions for loggers. In 1915, as a In 1917, the Loyal Legion of Loggers member of the Washington State Leg- and Lumbermen (the 4-L) called Simp- islature, Reed arranged for a $140,000 son’s Camp 1 “the best it had ever appropriation for a highway to Mason seen . . . showers, running water, hot County from Olympia, where there 24

had previously been a hilly, bumpy By 1918, loggers had standard eight- road.17 Although he was a spokesman hour workdays, thanks to leadership for big business in the legislature, he within the industry by Mark Reed and was also reform-minded when it came George Long. By World War II, most to the health and safety of workers. logging camps had ambulances, facili- During his career in the legislature, ties for some medical care, and strin- Reed sponsored legislation that estab- gent health and safety regulations. lished the state’s first Medical Insur- ance Act, an accident prevention pro- Although by then a majority of logging gram, and a State Medical Board to companies operated in surrounding administer employer-employee contri- counties, they depended on Thurston butions and make payments. These County for provisions, professional proposals were an improvement over medical care, and health insurance. the 1911 Workers’ Compensation Act, Through the legislature, permanent which compensated injured workers change for the health and safety of for lost wages, but not medical ex- loggers had been achieved.19 penses.18

For many years, the sternwheeler S. G. Simpson ran between Olympia and Shel- ton, and acted as a water ambulance for injured loggers. Photo LL-2325 courtesy of Peter J. Replinger. 25

THE REST OF ANN’S STORY 1A, line 13, family 4, Sixteenth Cen- sus of the United States, 1940, NARA To return to the story of Ann Morgan, digital publication T627. Records of she found a job as a salesgirl at the J. the Bureau of the Census, 1790 - C. Penney store in Aberdeen, working 2007, RG 29. Washington, D.C.: Na- her way up to bookkeeper. She worked tional Archives and Records Admin- for three years at Boeing during World istration, 2012, roll 4341. War II. After the war, she married Cliff Morgan. They divorced and in 1955, 4 The 1940 census lists his occupation she and Mary Ann moved to Olympia as a hook tender, which is another where she was hired by Washington type of supervisor. State in the Vocational Educational Office, and retired in 1977 as head of 5 Selective logging is the practice of re- payroll for the Washington State In- moving individual or small groups of surance Commissioner’s Office. She trees while retaining others, either be- also remained fluent in Finnish, her cause they are less valuable or to re- parents’ native language, throughout tain for future harvest. her life.20 ______6 Obituary of Ann H. Morgan.

NOTES 7 "Washington Death Certificates, 1907 -1960," database, FamilySearch 1 Many of the details about Ann’s life (https://familysearch.org/ark: are from the author’s conversations /61903/1:1:N3RC-BXJ : 10 March with her over a period of twenty years 2018), William J. J. Tyson, 05 Jul (1990-2011). Details have been cor- 1940; citing Aberdeen, Grays Harbor, roborated with other sources as much Washington, reference 164, Bureau of as possible. Vital Statistics, Olympia; FHL micro- film 2,023,757. 2 Obituary of Ann H. Morgan, The Olympian, January 25, 2011. genealo- 8 Obituary of Mary Ann Tyson, The gybank.com (accessed October 10, Olympian, July 11, 2002. genealo- 2018). gybank.com (accessed October 10, 2018). 3 Obituary of Ann H. Morgan and 1940 United States Census. "United States 9 Obituary of Mary Ann Tyson and Census, 1940," database with images, death certificate of William J. J. Ty- FamilySearch (https://familysearch. son. org/ark:/61903/1:1:K99G-3BD 14 March 2018), William J. J. Tyson, 10 M. J. Shields, MD, “Sanitation and Quinault Election Precinct, Grays Har- Hygiene for Logging Camp.” The Tim- bor, Washington, United States; citing berman, November 16, 1916, page 79. enumeration district (ED) 14-91, sheet 26

This photo of Simpson Logging Company’s Camp 7 shows the relatively civilized facilities. Clark Kinsey photo, LL-2337, courtesy of Peter J. Replinger.

11 Washington State Bureau of Labor 17 Spector, page 34. and Industries, 1901. 18 Spector, page 34. 12 Robert Spector, Family Trees: Simp- son’s Centennial Story. Bellevue, WA: 19 Spector, page 34. Documentary Book Publishers, 1990, page 15. 20 Carol Hannum, conversations with Ann Morgan, 1990-2011 and Ann’s 13 R. L. Polk, Oregon and Washington obituary, 2011. Gazetteer and Business Directory, ______1907-1908. Seattle: R. L. Polk & Co., 1907. Salt Lake City: Genealogical So- Carol Bateman Hannum is an accom- ciety of Utah, 2007. plished artist with an MFA from the University of Michigan. Her works are 14 Spector, page 38. in the collections of numerous U.S. and international museums. She has been 15 Stewart Holbrook, Green Common- teaching for more than 20 years at uni- wealth. F. McCaffrey at his Dogwood versities, community colleges and mu- Press, 1945, page 56. seums. ______16 Spector, page 35. 27

THE CENTENNIAL ROSE GARDEN: REMEMBERING OUR WASHINGTON STATE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION

Gary A. Ritchie, Ph.D.

The Olympia Rose Society (ORS), founded in 1954, had for many years held monthly meetings at the old Olympia Community Center on 4th Avenue in Olympia. They had also established, and were tending, a small rose garden on the west side of the Center. This garden contained about 100 bushes representing varieties of modern, ever-blooming roses that were popular during the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s. The garden served as an educational resource for the ORS for many decades and was the only rose garden in the Olympia-Lacey-Tum- water area open to public enjoyment.

In the mid-1980s the City of Olympia announced that the old Community Center was to be torn down and replaced by a new community center on Columbia Street in downtown Olym- pia. As a result, the ORS suddenly faced needs for both a new meeting location and a new home for its rose garden.

WASHINGTON LAUNCHES ITS Schedule for the 1989 Olympia Rose CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION Society Rose Show and Pacific North- west District, American Rose Society Coincidentally, at this time the early Convention during which the Centenni- stages of planning for the Washington al Garden was dedicated. Image cour- State Centennial Celebration, which tesy of the author. 28

was to be held in 1989, were well un- between the ORS and the Foundation derway. The ORS explored opportuni- stating that such a garden would be ties for creating a new rose garden in established on the site of an old tennis the Olympia area that would contain court on the mansion grounds. Over not only the rose bushes growing at the years the tennis court had fallen the old Community Center, but also a into disrepair and had become an eye- number of historic roses—roses be- sore. lieved to have been grown in this area during the time of statehood. It was Funds were then sought by the ORS to felt that the establishment of such a construct this rose garden. A $500 garden would be a suitable project for “mini-grant” was made available to the the Olympia Rose Society to undertake ORS by “Thurston County Centennial in celebration of the Centennial. ’89” to begin the project. An additional $8,500 was raised by the Society While a search began for a new garden through the extraordinary efforts of site, sources of funding were also ORS member Joy Ayres, who tirelessly sought for the project. Following a solicited donations from dozens of lo- suggestion from Derek Valley, then cal businesses and countless citizens. director of the State Capital Museum, In January 1989, the ORS officially the ORS contacted the Olympia Tum- announced plans for the new Centen- water Foundation. The Foundation nial Garden project, which was subse- owns and operates the Schmidt quently featured in a January 24, House, across from the old Olympia 1989 Olympian article. Brewery, as well as Tumwater Falls Park. One of the primary goals of the DEVELOPING THE CENTENNIAL GARDEN Foundation was, and remains, to raise ROSE COLLECTION funds to provide financial aid for local high school students who are planning The first step in planning the Centen- to attend college. A key avenue for ob- nial Garden was to formulate a list of taining such funds is by renting the the rose varieties that it would con- Schmidt House for conferences, meet- tain. It was decided that, while the ings, and weddings. Centennial Garden would celebrate roses of all types, it would focus on During 1987, talks were held between roses that were popular in the North- Don Lee, Vice President and General west during the time that Washington Manager of the Foundation, and Gary was transitioning from a territory to a Ritchie, then ORS President. These state. These roses were divided into talks were aimed at establishing a four categories: Ancient roses, Pioneer “Centennial Rose Garden” on the roses, Statehood roses and Modern grounds of the Schmidt House in con- roses. junction with the Washington State Centennial Celebration. On January 18, 1988, an agreement was struck 29

Ancient Roses House of Lancaster as its emblem during the 30-year War of Roses in 15th Roses have been grown and loved Century England. Hence, it has also since the dawn of civilization. Al- been called the “Red Rose of Lancas- though most of the roses cultivated by ter.” (Opposing forces from the House ancient peoples have been lost to his- of York adopted a white rose, R. alba tory, a few remain in cultivation today. semi-plena, as their symbol.) It is also The Centennial Garden contains some called the “Rose of Provins” because it of the oldest and finest of these re- formed the basis of an immense per- maining few. Some are known to have fume industry which flourished from been grown by the ancient Minoans, the 13th to the 18th Century around Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. Some the town of Provins in France. The red date back to Elizabethan times, while colors of the old European roses derive still others were cultivated by George almost exclusively from this variety. Washington, Thomas Jefferson and other founding fathers of our country. Rosa mundi (introduced before 1581). Three such varieties of ancient roses A bud sport (genetic mutation) of R. were donated to the Centennial Gar- gallica, R. mundi was described in den Foundation by the Mt. Vernon La- 1583 by the noted herbalist Carolus dies Club, who rooted them from cut- Clusius. A drawing of it, dated 1640, tings taken from plants growing in exists in Paris in the Jardin des Plant- George Washington’s Mt. Vernon rose es. Conjecturally, it may have been garden. associated with Henry II's mistress, the Fair Rosamond, who died around Ponder these wonderful plants—how 1176. Noted British botanist Dr. many millions of human eyes have be- Charles C. Hurst speculates that it held their timeless beauty? How many may have been given to her by a Cru- souls have been intoxicated by their sader who found it growing in a Syrian sweet, heady fragrance? Two of these garden. ancient roses were chosen for display in the Centennial Garden collection: Pioneer Roses Rosa gallica and Rosa mundi. Both are known as Gallica roses from their Pioneers of Oregon Territory began origin in ancient Gaul. heading west during the early 1840s, and by 1843 were arriving in the Rosa gallica. This rose is believed to Willamette Valley in considerable have been grown by the Egyptians and numbers. Their diaries tell of smug- Romans for centuries. The variety se- gling hidden rose cuttings wrapped in lected for the Centennial Garden, wet moss. Some recall cherished fami- called “Officinalis,” is known as the ly possessions being discarded along “Apothecary's Rose” owing to the me- the trail while plants were saved. dicinal properties of its blossoms, Some kept their plants alive with their stems and hips. It was adopted by the own daily water rations. 30

By the types of roses pioneers elected to carry west, one might infer that roses were brought mainly as reminders of home and loved ones in the east. However, certain roses were used as dietary supplements or for medicinal purposes. Blossoms and hips were eaten directly or were made into can- dies, jams, syrups, and wine. Rose oil was used to relieve eye problems. Rose syrup and honey soothed sore throats and coughs.

Today, throughout the Willamette Val- ley and Puget Lowland, one finds roses growing around old homesteads or in pioneer cemeteries. Many are the original plants brought west across the prairies and mountains by the intrepid settlers who laid claim to this proud land.

The pioneer roses on display in the Centennial Garden represent but a tiny sample of the varieties known to have been brought west during the 1840s and 1850s. These include the moss rose Alfred de Dalmas and Louise Odier, a bourbon rose.

Alfred de Dalmas, introduced in 1855, was created by the famous French breeder, Jean Lafay. It is also called “Mousseline” because its fine texture and creamy blush color resembles French muslin. The blossoms have a Top: Carolus Clusius (1526-1609) described Rosa mundi in 1583. En- fragrance resembling honeysuckle or graving circa 1575 by artist Martin Ro- sweet pea. Unlike many old garden ta. roses, Alfred de Dalmas has a repeat bloom in autumn. Bottom: Rosa mundi in full bloom at the Centennial Rose Garden. Photo by Louise Odier, introduced in 1851, is of the author. unknown parentage. Created by the 31

French breeders Jacques-Julien, and repeat blooming rather than for Jules Margottin, Père & Fils, this is a the beauty of the individual blossoms. superb and vigorous old bourbon rose. Marie Pavie has some endearing char- Flowers have the form of Old World acteristics such as pretty, whitish perfection—rosy pink, perfectly circu- double flowers, good scent, and lar and camellia-like with legendary scarcely any prickles (a.k.a. thorns). fragrance. Louise Odier blooms from The polyanthas are hybrids between June to October. Rosa multiflora and R. chinensis “Minima” and, while not widely grown Statehood Roses today, they are important because they are ancestors of the modern flori- By the time Washington Territory was bunda roses. becoming Washington State, the food and medicinal value of roses was Rose de Recht was introduced before largely supplanted by their usefulness 1900, and has an enigmatic history. as decorative garden plants. Although Once believed to have been brought to most of the famous rose breeders of Europe from Iran, more recent evi- the time were working their magic in dence suggests that it is actually na- Europe, particularly France, many of tive to France, as it strongly resembles the new European varieties of roses the Gallica roses. Whatever its origin, were being imported into the United this rose is compact, disease resistant States where they were achieving im- and intensely fragrant. It produces mense popularity. abundant fuchsia-red roses throughout the growing season. The list of varieties grown at the time is lengthy and, regrettably, the Cen- La France, introduced in 1867, repre- tennial Garden is far too small to ac- sents a true landmark in the history of commodate more than even a tiny roses—the world's first hybrid tea. It fraction of them. In the small collec- was introduced over 150 years ago by tion assembled, an attempt was made the eminent French rose breeder Jean to select varieties which are repre- Baptiste Guillot, who claims to have sentative of many types of roses grown found it growing in a bed of seedlings at the time of statehood. Also popular in his rose garden. Hence, its parent- then were many of the Ancient and age is unknown. Because of its ex- Pioneer roses described above. Had traordinary form, it was placed into an you been living in Olympia 130 years altogether new class of roses—the hy- ago, these are the kinds of roses you brid teas (this name reflects the fact would have seen growing around that these hybrid roses often have a town. tea-like scent). La France had such a tremendous impact on the rose world Marie Pavie, introduced in 1888, is that the date of its introduction stands one of the earliest polyantha roses. to this day as the dividing line be- Polyanthas were bred for mass color tween Old Garden Roses (heritage ros- 32

es) and Modern Roses. In June 1867 a committee of 50 leading French rosarians met at Lyon to judge more than 1,000 new varieties. They vot- ed overwhelmingly that this rose, above all others, should be dignified by the name “La France” in honor of their country.

Modern Roses

While ancient and historic roses remain the highlight of the Centennial Rose Garden collection, the bulk of the plants therein are modern roses—hybrid teas, grandiflo- ras, floribundas, miniatures, and other types of ever- blooming roses. These roses, through a quirk of nature, are able to bloom continuously throughout the growing season—a property known as re- montancy. This apparently arises out of a genetic muta- Final approved plans for the layout of the Cen- tion that occurred thousands tennial Rose Garden. The large specimen rose of years ago in a few species bushes, planned for the east side of the garden, roses native to southern Chi- were never installed. Image courtesy of the au- na. From this small popula- thor. tion of wild plants, breeders over the centuries have created a vast Many of our most beloved modern ros- and bewildering panoply of roses of es have been created not by profes- every size, form and color imaginable sionals but by amateur rose breeders. (except for blue). The Centennial Gar- “Jan’s Wedding,” for example, growing den contains 54 varieties of these re- in the southwest corner of the Centen- montant roses; many were moved nial Garden, was created in 1985 by from the old garden site, while another the late Dr. Neil Adams, a member of 60 bushes were donated by College both the Olympia and the Lewis Coun- Street Nursery and others by members ty Rose Societies. of the ORS and local rose societies. 33

THE CENTENNIAL GARDEN IS CONSTRUCTED IN 1987-88

Once the rose garden collection had been confirmed, work began on de- signing the garden itself. The formal design was developed by the Centenni- al Garden Foundation, whose mem- bership at that time consisted of Joy and Val Ayres, Jerry Hendrickson, Howard and Julie Hockenberry, ORS President Sam Ramos and Foundation Chairman Gary Ritchie. It consisted of nine beds oriented in a north-south direction, and two raised beds for miniature roses located at the garden’s northern end. East of the formal garden area fifteen large specimen roses were also to be planted. This design was approved by the ORS and the Olympia Tumwater Foundation in late 1987.

Construction began in earnest in early February 1988. Following removal of the old concrete tennis court, the bed locations were surveyed and staked and then 2x6 pressure-treated timbers were installed. A drip irrigation system consisting of black PVC pipe was laid The original Visitors’ Guide to the Cen- out within the beds and then the beds tennial Rose Garden featured a photo were filled with a mix of soil and of the rose arbor located at the south mushroom compost. Finally, 21 yards end of the garden. Image courtesy of of crushed rock were delivered and the author. placed on the dirt paths by hand with wheelbarrows and shovels. experts from around the country. It contains information on the various This completed, some 100 plants from types of roses and their history, along the old Community Center were dug with a listing of all the rose varieties and moved from that garden to the contained at that time and brief his- new garden site in spring 1988. A 24- torical sketches of the heritage roses. page Visitors Guide was written and An arbor, designed to tie the garden reviewed by several noted rose history architecturally to the Schmidt House, 34

was constructed of dimension lumber THE CENTENNIAL GARDEN IS and 8-inch diameter PVC pipes and DEDICATED IN 1989 installed at the south entrance of the garden. Finally, a large garden sign The dedication ceremony was held on was manufactured and installed just June 24, 1989 in conjunction with the to the east of the rose arbor. During Annual Convention and Rose Show of the remainder of 1988 and into 1989, the Pacific Northwest District of the additional roses were added to the American Rose Society, which was garden completing it just in time for held at the Westwater Inn in Olympia its dedication. and hosted by the Olympia Rose Soci- ety. In keeping with the Centennial The entire project was conceived, de- celebration, the theme of the show signed and executed by members of and convention was “A Century of the Olympia Rose Society, their Roses.” The ceremony was attended by friends and families. approximately 300 people from the Pa- cific Northwest. Washington First Lady

The official Centennial Garden opening ceremony was held at the garden on June 24, 1989. Left to right: Tumwater Mayor Skip Schmidt, Washington First Lady Jean Gardner, Centennial Garden Foundation Chairman Gary Ritchie, and Olympia Rose Society President Steve McCulloch. Photograph by Jake DeHaven, courtesy of the author. 35

Jean Gardner was the featured speak- by holding rose sales and by dona- er. tions from many ORS members.

A FENCE IS ADDED TO In 2016 the ORS was awarded a EXCLUDE MARAUDING DEER Thurston County Historic Commission Grant in the amount of $2,000. This During 1989 and 1990 the Centennial provided needed funds to replace and Rose Garden was discovered and visit- add several new heritage rose varie- ed by the local deer herd. Roses are ties. In addition, the original crushed like candy to deer and within a few rock pathways were replenished with weeks they were on track to decimate new rock and a layer of fresh bark the Centennial Garden. A number of mulch was added to the rose beds. remedies were sought: electronic noise making devices, repellent sprays, fish- Of the many and varied Centennial line trip wires, soap hung from poles Celebration projects that were under- next to the bushes. Nothing worked. taken across every county in the State Finally, in about 1992 the Olympia of Washington in 1989, the Centennial Tumwater Foundation financed the Rose Garden remains among the very construction of an 8-foot high chain few still in existence. It is without link fence, with three gates, to keep doubt the finest rose garden in the the deer out. It remains to this day as area, and arguably the most signifi- an effective deer barrier. cant rose garden between Tacoma and Portland. It is visited by numerous THE CENTENNIAL GARDEN—ONE OF THE people throughout the summer and FEW CENTENNIAL SURVIVORS has become a truly important historic community asset. Currently the Centennial Rose Garden ______contains approximately 215 rose bushes of 64 different varieties. Over REFERENCES the years many of the older bushes, having succumbed to old age and dis- Peter Beales, Classic Roses. New York: ease, have been removed and/or re- Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1985. placed by modern, ever-blooming roses. Many of these have been selected Thomas Cairns, American Rose Regis- for disease resistance as well as for try. Shreveport, LA: The American bloom quality and fragrance. During Rose Society, 1988. the past 30 years, Olympia Rose Soci- ety members have continually main- H. B. Ellwanger, The Rose. New York: tained and improved the garden. All of Dodd Mead and Co., 1882. the costs have been borne by the Cen- tennial Garden Foundation—these P. A. Haring, ed., Modern Roses 9. ranging from $250 to $1,000 per year. Shreveport, LA: The American Rose This has been financed over the years Society, 1986. 36

Roger Phillips and Martyn Rix, Roses. New York: Random House, 1988.

Roy E. Shepard, History of the Rose. New York: Earl M. Coleman Publ., 1978.

Nancy Steen, The Charm of Old Roses. Washington, D.C.: Mildale Press, 1966.

Graham Stuart Thomas, The Old Shrub Roses. London, Melbourne: J. M. Dent and Sons, Ltd., 1983. ______

Dr. Gary A. Ritchie is the Historian and former President of the Olympia Rose Society and current Chairman of the Centennial Garden Foundation. With a Ph.D. from the University of Washing- ton in forest biology, Dr. Ritchie has been a plant scientist, author, and lec- turer on roses and rose history for nearly 40 years. His recent book Inside Plants: A Gardeners’ Guide to Plant Anatomy and Physiology is available on Amazon.com.

VISITING THE ROSE GARDEN Hand-drawn layout of the garden beds, irrigation system, and location of rose The rose garden, located at 330 varieties. Since the garden was estab- Schmidt Place SW in Tumwater, is lished, certain varieties have been re- open to the public from 8:30 a.m. to placed and more varieties have been 4:30 p.m. on most weekdays, during added. Image courtesy of the author. blooming season. If you would like to become a member of the Olympia Rose Society, contact the author at [email protected]. garden’s collection, visit http://olytum foundation.org/centennial-rose- For more information about the Cen- garden/. tennial Rose Garden, and to see a gal- ______lery of photos of various roses in the 37

THE MILITARY ROAD IN THURSTON COUNTY

James S. Hannum, M.D.

During what is often called the Puget ty. Another segment of the Military Sound Indian War of 1855-56, the Road can be found immediately south- United States Army was charged with east of downtown Steilacoom, in Pierce development of a unified system of County, as Old Military Road, which roads west of the Cascade Mountains. becomes simply Military Road farther Eventually it stretched from Seattle, in to the southeast. the north, to Cowlitz Landing in the south, in Lewis County. Its purpose This article will concentrate on the was to facilitate rapid movement of part of the Army’s road system con- troops and supplies. In 1856, Lieuten- structed in Thurston County. In the ant George H. Mendell was tasked 21st Century, Old Military Road South- with oversight of construction on two east originates at Sussex Avenue East segments of the Military Road. The in Tenino, and winds its way approxi- first began at Cowlitz Landing (near mately 1.7 miles to the east, where it Toledo, Washington) and extended ends on Highway 507. Farther east, north to Ford’s Prairie (which lies be- Military Road Southeast begins just tween the west side of Centralia and west of McIntosh Lake, on Highway the southern border of Thurston 507, and travels northeast. It passes County). The second was eight miles north of the lake, then crosses the in length and began at the Donation Deschutes River and Rainier Road. Land Claim of Benjamin L. Henness The original Military Road right-of-way (immediately northeast of present-day continues northeast, while the current Tenino) and terminated at Yelm Prairie Military Road Southeast curves east, (in the Donation Land Claim of James becoming 123rd Avenue Southeast. Hughes). These two pieces of the Mili- tary Road were completed in 1857 and How were all these pieces of the Mili- in the same year, the road was opened tary Road connected historically and all the way to Fort Steilacoom.1 geographically? A certain amount of background information is necessary Some fragments of this system of to answer that question. To begin, it is roads can be found in King and Pierce important to emphasize that most of Counties. Many motorists who drive what was called the “Military Road” along Interstate 5 are familiar with the utilized previously existing pathways. exit to Military Road South, located Figure 1 shows the major roads and south of SeaTac Airport in King Coun- trails that were present in this area 38

Figure 1: Roads and trails in Western Washington. Base map comes from a portion of Map of a Part of the Territory of Washington to Accompany Report of Surveyor General, 1855, by James Tilton, Surveyor General, Surveyor General’s Office, Olym- pia, Washington Territory, September 20, 1855. 39

about 1855. Undoubtedly, these were received. Farms and ranches in these routes that had been used by Native counties were used to produce grain, Americans for centuries. However, meat, and vegetables that sustained many of them were not improved to a distant Hudson’s Bay Company out- degree that allowed consistent, year- posts or went to overseas markets. round passage of wagon traffic. Figure 2 is part of the 1854 U.S. Gov- Prior to the Puget Sound Indian War ernment Land Office Original Survey of 1855-56, the Puget Sound Agricul- of Township 11 North, Range 1 West, tural Company (a subsidiary of the in Lewis County. Cowlitz Landing was Hudson’s Bay Company) was the big- on the western edge of this map and it gest commercial user of roads in became the southern terminal of the Pierce, Thurston and Lewis Counties. Military Road. The landing was located It probably was responsible for much at that place because it was the far- of whatever maintenance those roads thest up river that flat-bottomed boats

Figure 2: Cowlitz Landing and Cowlitz Farms as seen on part of the 1854 U.S. Gov- ernment Land Office Original Survey of Township 11 North, Range 1 West.2

could consistently navigate. Northeast within modern-day DuPont, Washing- of Cowlitz Landing was Cowlitz Farms, ton, was an important Hudson’s Bay operated by the Puget Sound Agricul- Company trading center, with nearby tural Company. Most of the grain used prairies suitable for grazing animals by the Hudson’s Bay Company was and crop production. Approximately produced there, and much of it was 3.5 miles to the northeast, Fort Stei- exported to Russian posts in Alaska. lacoom developed as a U.S. Army out- post near the civilian community of Although when proposed the Military Steilacoom. Its grounds are now the Road was intended to go all the way to site of Western State Hospital. Both Bellingham, Seattle was as far north forts were found on the base map as it finally was constructed. In Pierce used to create Figure 1. County, Fort Steilacoom and Fort Nisqually were important outposts Figure 3 is part of the 1868 U.S. Gov- along the road. Fort Nisqually, located ernment Land Office Original Survey

Figure 3: Fort Steilacoom as seen on part of the 1868 U.S. Government Land Office Original Survey of Township 20 North, Range 2 East.

of Township 20 North, Range 2 East, in Pierce County. The Town of Steilacoom is visible, and Fort Nisqually would have been to the southwest of that settlement. The barracks of Fort Steilacoom can be seen, as well as the road from Fort Steilacoom to Seattle.

The purpose of the Military Road was to facilitate Army operations; therefore, a relia- ble and direct route between Fort Steilacoom and Cowlitz Landing was considered de- sirable. The existing, pre- 1855 crossing of the Nisqual- ly River, near Nisqually Reach, must have been deemed unacceptable. As a result, an entirely new right- of-way was selected for part of the Military Road in Thurston County. It connected to the “Road from Yellem Prairie to the Ford,” which crossed the Nisqually approximately 0.5 mile downriver Figure 4: “The Ford,” which was incorporated into (north) of the location of mod- the Military Road in 1857, as seen on part of the ern-day McKenna. Figure 4 is 1856 U.S. Government Land Office Original Sur- part of the 1856 U.S. Govern- vey of Township 17 North, Range 2 East. ment Land Office Survey of Township 17 North, Range 2 East. This survey was created just be- East (originally surveyed 1853) does fore the new right-of-way for the Mili- not appear in either of these earliest tary Road was opened. maps of those lands. It is likely that the right-of-way between those two In Thurston County, the portion of the points had not previously been used Military Road between Section 12 of as a road or trail. Perhaps that is be- Township 16 North, Range 1 West cause the topography through which it (originally surveyed in 1856) and Sec- travels is hilly, and contains low, tion 24 of Township 17 North, Range 1 swampy areas. 42

An advertisement in an Olympia news- road, covered with earth taken from paper3 dated March 27, 1857 gives a ditches parallel to the line. Grades not glimpse of the territory through which to exceed one foot in ten, (10.) Such this segment of the road would pass: drains to be constructed as may be considered by the officer in charge to “Sealed proposals will be received in be necessary. Portland, O. T., till 12 M., April 25th, for the performance of the following “Sub-sec. 1, will also include one work on the Vancouver and Stei- fourth of a mile more or less, of cordu- lacoom Military Road, along a line ap- roy bridge near Henness’. proximately located between Henness’ prairie and Hughs’ on Yelm prairie “Bidders will specify a sum per mile [see Figure 8]. for each subsection, and also for each running foot of the Tenalquot bridge “Subsection 1. From the eastern ex- . . . . Work to be completed by No- tremity of Henness’ prairie to the vember 1st, 1857. Proposals to be en- crossing of the Tenalquot [Deschutes] dorsed—‘Proposals for V. & S. Military river near Linklater’s claim, and in- Road.’ cluding a bridge of a substantial char- acter over the Tenalquot river—about “G. H. Mendell, Top. Engineers.” three miles. This part of the Military Road still ap- “Subsection 2. From the Tenalquot peared in the 1870 map reproduced in prairie to Hughes’ on Yelm prairie— Figure 5, even though it suffered a about four miles. bridge collapse shortly after it was finished, which rendered it unusable. “The bridge over the Tenalquot river to Another Olympia newspaper article4 be 60 feet, more or less, in length—to dated July 23, 1858 reports: be supported by abutments on either bank—roadway to be 12 feet wide in “Broke Down. —The bridge across the clear, of 3 inch fir plank, and to be Deshutes river, near the residence of above the reach of the drift of the Mr. Thos. Linklater, of this county, highest water. Approaches to the and on the Military road leading from bridge to be made easy. The stringers Monticello [modern-day Longview] to of the bridge to be of hewn or sawed fir Fort Steilacoom, gave way on Friday timber, squaring not less than one last, and has become irreparably use- foot. Bracing above the stringers. less. It broke down under the weight of some eight or ten beef cattle, de- “The timber to be cut down and re- signed for the Steilacoom market—the moved for a width of 25 feet; —a road property of the Messrs. Bird and bed of 12 feet in width to be free from brothers, of Pierce county. One or two stumps and roots. Marshy places to be head of the stock were seriously crip- passed by a substantial corduroy pled, and Mr. Bird escaped narrowly 43

Artist’s conception of a 9th U.S. Infantry supply wagon having just crossed the Nisqually River late in 1857 at “the Ford.” Drawing by Carol B. Hannum. going down with the bridge. The bridge new span at that site in 1894. The and the contract, as far as completed, Thurston County Board of Commis- having been received by Mr. Mendell, sioners inspected it on September 22 the Topographical Engineer, it may be of that year,5 and approved the bridge some time before the bridge will be re- at their October 1, 1894 meeting.6 constructed.” However, by that time, other roads (and railroads) had emerged which ad- Indeed, another bridge over the equately met Thurston County’s trans- Deschutes River, at this site, was not portation needs, and the mostly un- erected until many years later. Since used right-of-way between Tenalquot the Indian War of 1855-56 was over, Prairie and Yelm had already begun to the U.S. Army apparently felt no ur- sink into oblivion. Figure 6 is part of gent need to replace the structure. Fi- Henry & Henry’s undated, but post- nally, Thurston County constructed a 1891 map of Thurston County. 44

Figure 5: The Military Road in Pierce, Thurston, and Lewis Counties, from Map of Washington Territory, West of the Cascade Mountains as of 1870, created by Ernst C. Bechley in 1951, which used as its base map the Map of the Washington Territory: West of the Cascade Mountains, by Charles A. White, originally published by C. B. Colton & Company, 1870, and preserved at the Library of Congress.

The maintained part of the former Mil- short-lived, new segment of the Mili- itary Road ended in Section 33 of tary Road was constructed. A good Township 17 North, Range 1E. Figure portion of that right-of-way now lies 7 comes from the map of the Chehalis within the Fort Lewis Military Reserva- Quadrangle printed in 1916 by the tion, which limits public access to the U.S. Geological Service. The Military area. Road right-of-way, northeast of Rai- nier Road, is represented merely as a Although just a few short segments of trail. That trail still appears in the Thurston County roadway continue to 1925-29 Metsker’s Map of that area, be called Military Road, that designa- but is absent from later editions. tion reminds us of the much larger transportation system that existed Figure 8 focuses on the parts of here before statehood. Much of that Thurston County where the rather system existed even before the Military 45

Figure 6: Portion of remaining part of Military Road in Thurston County, from Map of Thurston County, Washington, produced between 1891 and 1896 by Henry & Henry, Engineers and Surveyors, Talcott’s Block, Olympia, Washington.

Road was conceived. Similarly, large modern names, such as Old Highway portions of the original, 19th Century 99. Military Road are still present in the ______21st Century, having been given more 46

Figure 7: Arrows show the part of the Military Road right-of-way that still existed as a trail on the 1916 U.S. Geological Survey’s topographical map of the Chehalis Quadrangle.

NOTES 5 “Brevities Of The Day.” Morning Olympian, September 22, 1895, page 1 Thomas Wickham Prosch, “Military 4. Roads of Washington Territory.” Wash- ington Historical Quarterly, Volume 2, 6 Thurston County Board of Commis- Number 2, January 1908, pages 118- sioners Proceedings, Volume 4, page 126. 383, Southwest Regional Branch of the Washington State Archives. 2 Base maps for Figures 2, 3, and 4 ______are available at: https://glorecords. blm.gov/default.aspx. Dr. Hannum is a retired physician and surgeon who spent his early years in 3 “Notice.” Olympia Pioneer and Demo- Michigan. He arrived in western Wash- crat, March 27, 1857, page 3. ington in 1971 as a member of the U.S. Public Health Service. Railroad history 4 “Broke Down.” Olympia Pioneer and has been a life-long interest, and he Democrat, July 23, 1858, page 2. has written several books on the sub- ject. ______

Above: Figure 8: Roads and trails in Thurston County in early 1858. The base map comes from The County-Engineer’s New Road Map of Thurston County, Washing- ton—1909. Below: View south along Eureka Street from Old Military Avenue E in Tenino. Photo courtesy of the author.