TRAVEL + LEISURE

TRAVELERS’ TALES, FROM NEAR AND FAR The eroded sandstone peaks of Edited by SARAH BRUNING and LILA HARRON BATTIS the Quebrada de las Flechas canyon rise up behind Ruta 40, in ’s province. IN SEARCH OF HIGH CULTURE On a thrilling road trip through Argentina’s mountainous northwest—beginning and ending in the colonial city of Salta—KAREN CATCHPOLE discovers sloping vineyards, INCE 2006, I’VE been on an elegant haciendas, and one of the world’s epic road trip across the most far-flung museums. Americas. After years of living in New York City, I was curious to see how my experience fit S into the wider world—so I set off on a journey that I initially thought would last 36 months. More than a decade later, I’ve stopped keeping track. I’ve driven through the surreal landscapes of Canada’s Yukon Territory, Mexico’s Copper Canyon, and Bolivia’s Uyuni Salt Flat. When I made it to Argentina, instead of heading straight for the cosmopolitan streets of , I embarked on a four-day drive around the (mostly unpaved) province of Salta— a region that has lured many wine-loving Californians like me with its varied, otherworldly scenery and high-altitude grapes. It turned out to be one of my most memorable adventures yet.

DAY 1: SALTA TO CAFAYATE In the city of Salta, the provincial capital, grand Neoclassical buildings surround a lively main square studded with jacaranda trees. Eager to get on the road, I spent the night outside the city at the Finca Valentina Casa de Campo (finca-valentina.com.ar; doubles from $140), a rustic 10-room hotel done out in gaucho-inspired décor like cowhide rugs and handwoven tapestries. After a breakfast of coffee and a flaky medialuna, Argentina’s smaller and sweeter take on the croissant, I hit the asphalt, heading south on Ruta 68. The highway snakes through some of Salta’s most arresting landscapes, and after two hours of driving, I entered one of its most scenic stretches: the Quebrada de las Conchas (Gorge of the Shells) nature reserve. The area is named for its striated rock formations that rise out of the earth like broken seashells, their stripes of colorful sediment glimmering in the sun. I pulled over to stretch my legs and

JAVIER PIERINI JAVIER watch as Andean condors soared above

TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 27 Salta

Salta Wine Route

Cachi claim to have invented the empanada, and I was curious to see what all the fuss was about. So, a few hours later, I headed to Casa de las Empanadas (24 Calle Mitre; 54-3868-42-1887; entrées $3–$8), a casual joint known for its L o s Cardones pillowy, crescent-shaped pastries. Mine came National Park out piping hot and golden brown, stuffed with a luscious, jammy filling of beef, sweet pepper, EXPERIENCES EXPERIENCES and onion. Flaky and succulent, they were far Molinos Colomé more delicious than versions I’d tried in other parts of South America.

DAY 2: CAFAYATE WINE COUNTRY The valley surrounding Cafayate is sprinkled with more than 30 wineries. But I only had

Quebrada de one afternoon in the area, so I decided to las Flechas Quebrada de las Conchas focus on just two—starting with the region’s largest. Founded by French brothers David and Salvador Michel, El Esteco Winery (elesteco.com) is notable not only for its

Cafayate output (7 million bottles per year, under seven different labels) but for its beauty: at the center of the rambling property is a brilliant white colonial-style building that pops against the mountain-ringed landscape. the imposing mesas, a dusty scene evocative During a tour, my guide explained the rigors of the American Southwest. The gorge offers of wine making in the region, which is known a handful of detour-worthy sites, including a for its rocky soil, intense sunlight, and very little cluster of castle-like rock formations known precipitation. It made me appreciate the estate’s as Los Castillos and a natural amphitheater voluptuous reds all the more, and I vowed to where musicians are known to stage seek out the dark and tannic Don David Reserve impromptu concerts. But the summer heat Tannat that I tried in the tasting room the next was blistering, so after wandering through time I was in a wine store. the sinewy (and blissfully shaded) passageway Then it was on to the family-run Bodega San of the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) Pedro de Yacochuya (yacochuya.com.ar). canyon, I beelined for my truck. As I drove farther south, the ocher-colored jumble gave way to verdant pastures and vineyards heavy with grapes. Eventually I reached Cafayate, Salta’s most famous wine town, which sits in a valley that produces Tannat, Torrontés, and other varieties at 5,500 feet. For more than 40 years, Roberto Romero and his family have been turning out fresh, delicate wines at El Porvenir winery. In 2016, the family opened the five-room Casa de Bodega (elporvenir de cafayate.com; doubles from $130), a hotel inside an old Spanish- colonial home with terra-cotta floors and high, wood-beamed ceilings. On the hotel’s back patio, which doubles as an informal dining area, I had a delicious late lunch of The lobby of asado, a traditional Argentinean barbecue of Casa de Bodega, a family-run hotel sweetbreads, sausages, and tender cuts of beef.

in Cafayate. But I was careful not to overindulge: Salteños PARSEY MAY BY ILLUSTRATION LUSCOMBE-WHYTE. MARK

28 TRAVEL+LEISURE | AUGUST 2020 EXPERIENCES 32 at the Molinos, where for Istopped lunch spiky sandstone pinnacles. Gorge of Arrows, of alandscape the Quebrada delasFlechas, or and adusttrail followed meinto colonial town of Molinos isunpaved, between Cafayate andthetiny in the world. The 70-milesection forming oneof thelongesthighways the western of length Argentina, Ruta 40, which stretches down The next morning,Ipicked up BODEGA COLOMÉ DAY 3:CAFAYATE TO sun dappledthrough the vines. velvety finishasthelate afternoon fruit with spice, andIsavored its balances Sauvignon Cabernet dark breezy back patio. The 2015Laborum ElPorvenir’sBodega wines onthe the day with aprivate tasting of citrus with intense minerality. Torrontés, which combines crisp including Pedro itsSan de Yacochuya most aromatic whites intheregion, estate isresponsible for someof the wine inArgentina. Today, the40-acre produce barrel-fermented thefirst now co-owner) Michel Rolland to with legendary French enologist(and a sixth-generation vintner, partnered Arnaldo Etchart, aCafayate native and 1988 when the property’s owner, the course of Argentina’s viticulture in El Esteco, thishillside winery changed Though smallcompared with

About fourAbout later, hours Ireached Back at Casa de Bodega, Ifinished Back atCasadeBodega, TRAVEL+LEISURE |AUGUST 2020 Hacienda de Molinos Hotel de Molinos Hacienda

to to mud oven for empanadas andbreads. cooking techniques, such astheuseof a restaurant stillincorporates centuries-old the lastgovernor of Salta, and theground-floor The 18th-century innserved asthehomeof (hacienda demolinos.com.ar; entrées $2–$9). Colomé was worth braving notjustfor its wines gates andlaideyes onmilesof trellised vines. the moment Ipassed through the wrought-iron steering wheel allthe way. My tension melted obstacle course of potholes, white-knuckling the anhourto coaxabout my 4xthrough an from $124) Bodega Colomé Bodega From Molinos, thenarrow, roadwinding dirt I’d told thattheroad been to Bodega is just 12 miles long, but it took me me isjust12mileslong,butittook

(bodegacolome.com; doubles

Molinos Hotel. Hacienda de at the glass of local empanadas and a Colomé vineyard; time at the Bodega From Harvest left: Yacochuya. San Pedro de from Bodega Cafayate valley Views of the

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JAVIER PIERINI; MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE (2) EXPERIENCES Salta region. Salta that include the Argentina itineraries organize northern 612-877-1735) adventures.com; (jordan@ knowmad Jordan Harvey travel advisor T+L A-List TRAVEL ADVISOR a four-wheel-drive. make sure you book are unpaved, so roads Salta within many of the airport; options near the ofplenty car-rental You’ll hours. two find takes approximately (aerolineas.com.ar) Aerolíneas there on to Salta Aires. flight The from U.S.the to Buenos from direct service offer airlines Multiple COVID-19 pandemic. closure due to the following months of date of September 1 tentative reopening Argentina has a THEREGETTING Trip Road Salta Perfect a Plan 34 on horseback. Bodega Colomé grounds of Exploring the

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Torrontés thechallengeswhile hedescribed Thibaut Delmotte, who poured and Malbec restaurant, ImetColomé’s French winemaker, five decadesof his work—opened to thepublic. built to theartist’s andhousing specifications Turrell agreed, andin2009,themuseum— collaborating project onasite-specific there. Salta andasked if he would interested be in collector DonaldHess, invited to theartist Colomé’s owner, theSwiss magnate andart Space movement. In theearly aughts, Bodega Jamesartist Turrell, apioneer of theLight and only museumdedicated to theAmerican the property’s otherattraction: the world’s hotel,1831) oritscharming butfor boutique (some of themmadefrom grapes planted in But first, the But first, wine. At theproperty’s bi-level

vast, cloudless sky. through to thesquare a aperture I was content out stillandlook to be Salta, five away. hours Butfor now, National Park back to thecity of the town of Cachi andLos Cardones the road early anddrive through immediately lostalltrack of time. through thecutout intheceiling, and cool, black-granite floor, stared up stretched outonamatthe the world’s largest Skyspace. I an open-roofed atriumfeaturing bathed inblue,and that’s chamber sense-distorting display are me inadaze.Amongthe works on sizes awash in vivid colors thatleft he callsSkyspaces, rooms of various nine walk-ininstallations, which on atwo-hour guidedtour of Turrell’s of cantaloupe andpeach. with firmacidity andhoneyed tones was bright andperfectly balanced, But theColomé Torrontés Itasted syrupy sweet andoverly alcoholic. over-ripen, leading to wines thatare explained, high-elevation grapes can 2005—with the wrong approach, he when heaccepted thejobin Bordeaux, hehadfelt unprepared me that,despite hisexperience in of making wine inSalta. He told The next morning,I would hit Feeling buzzed,Iembarked alittle Spread, animmense, Unseen Blue,

FROM TOP: FLORIAN HOLZHERR; MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE