Merchant of the Year Issue no. 18 Sommelier March 2019 - Sept 2019 Awards 2018 BIBENDUMTIMES

Tel. 0845 263 6924 [email protected] www.bibendum-wine.co.uk @bibendumwine A REGIONAL FRANCE REFRESH Meet some of our new French producers reclaiming ‘terroir’

In an increasingly digital world, it’s are inter-planted with native brush and heartening to come across people trees, while bird houses, bat shelters and with a profound connection to the bee hives are dotted around the estate. earth and to their craft – the latest Maison Caroline Lestime additions to the Bibendum family Burgundy possess just that. Whether from Jura, Burgundy or the Loire, they Exploring her own creativity in Burgundy are characterised by a deep desire Daughter of vigneron Jean-Noel to create an honest expression of Gagnard, Caroline Lestime still makes their respective terroirs, by the at her father’s domaine, but promoting biodiversity in the started ‘Maison Caroline Lestime’ in 2016 as a way to explore her own creativity and vineyard and taking a hands-off forge her own identity. She buys grapes approach in the winery. from a variety of small growers, to vinify Our buyer Robert Mathias separately and explore the variety of says: “Our new French producers each flavours her local terroir has to offer. share a strong pride for their region and their region’s history. “I try to reflect the terroir in my wines, to bring the terroir into the glass.” Their work is based on a Domaine Marc Delienne, Caroline Lestime, Maison Caroline Lestime respect for the land and an Chateau Guiraud Domaine de la Pinte Domaine Marc Delienne Bordeaux ambition to communicate Jura Beaujolais a sense of place through Pioneers of organic Biodynamic Jura Stripped-back Fleurie their wines.” In 2011 Chateau Guiraud became the The special thing about Domaine de la After quitting his job in Paris, Marc first Grand Cru Classe to be certified Pinte is the soil. Savagnin loves the blue Delienne studied winemaking, before organic. Today you can find special nesting With customers increasingly interested marl clay surrounding the domaine, while buying some vines in Fleurie. In the hives dotted around the vineyard to in the provenance and sustainable red grapes do fantastically well in the areas vineyard it’s all about biodiversity among encourage a huge variety of pollinating credentials of what they’re consuming, of red clay. Pierre Martin manages things his 40-80-year-old vines, while in the cellar insects and spiders. The wines are it’s a great time to introduce you to these days and is a firm believer in it’s a stripped-back approach that gives us classically balanced, with body and some of the latest additions to our biodynamics, which helps loosen these these powerful expressions of Fleurie. texture from the Semillon, and wonderful French portfolio. tough clay soils so the vines can get aromatics and minerality from their the nutrients they need. Domaine Bruno Dubois Loire Sauvignon Blanc. “A biodynamic estate is a living A haven for birds, bats and bees organism where every element is Take a look at our website to find important: the soil, the plant, and Before settling in Saumur-Champigny, out more about these exciting new the work of humans. This is the Bruno Dubois worked at Domaine producers or ask your Account Lapierre in Morgon, where his passion Manager if you’d like to try any of very definition of terroir.” Chateau Guiraud, Bordeaux for organics and non-interventionist their wines. Pierre Martin, Domaine de la Pinte winemaking was born. Bruno’s vineyards

Bibendum in Ireland Wine Minds apprentices Bibendum & Cubitt House A wealth of opportunities across the Sam Ameye and Romain de Courcy spill Why passion, premiumisation and Irish Sea the beans on their experience so far people are key

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HOMEGROWN TALENT WHAT ELSE IS NEW? We’re delighted to unveil two new additions to our English portfolio Introducing six talented new producers from Germany, Spain, New Zealand and the USA

Albourne Estate and Fitz come Weingut Robert Weil Kelly Washington Wines from two ends of the English Germany New Zealand winemaking spectrum and we’re Where rules supreme Exploring sub-regionality in very excited to be welcoming Marlborough and Central Otago them both. With Albourne we have Weingut Robert Weil is a real ‘Riesling small production, terroir-focussed Chateau’. Come harvest, the grapes are Husband and wife winemaking team, hand-selected and picked during a wines, while Fitz is all about Simon Kelly and Tamra Kelly-Washington, mammoth 17 passes through the source a diverse range of parcels from fun, fruit and fizz! vineyard, spanning 8-10 weeks. After trusted organic growers in Marlborough gentle whole-cluster pressing, natural and Central Otago, with a particular English wine buyer Jamie sedimentation is used to fine the must. focus on high-density planting and old, Avenell says: “I am super excited The resulting wines are elegant, rich high-altitude vines. Their aim in every and exude class. bottle is to showcase the sub-regionality to be adding these two new of New Zealand’s wine growing regions. producers to our portfolio. I’ve “Weil are elegant admired Albourne for some time Ironstone for their quality wines, and fantastic and fruit-driven as well as packaging. And Fitz brings complex and concentrated.” Ironstone something entirely different to Wilhem Weil, Weingut Robert Weil USA the category, both in style and Alison Nightingale, Albourne Estate Fitz A real family business price point.” Cuevas de Arom It was by growing sweet cherries that How to grow the best grapes FITZ made using the traditional method. John Kautz first began to see the potential And this is where the name comes in. Cuevas de Arom ALBOURNE ESTATE in Sussex in Lodi’s unique micro-climate. Then in England’s first Charmat ‘Fitzroy’ was an Anglo-Norman name Spain 1989, this crop-farmer-turned-grape-grower Production at Albourne’s south-facing meaning ‘son of the king’, usually given Meet Alison Nightingale sparkling wine took the plunge and decided to build his Sussex vineyards is kept deliberately to an illegitimate son or daughter of the New wave, elegant Garnacha small to enable meticulous attention And now for something completely own winery. Today the whole family is The vineyard and winery at Albourne king. As the ‘bastard child of English Set up by three friends, Cuevas de to detail. All the grapes are grown different… Against the backdrop of involved in the business, with John (now are run by co-owner Alison Nightingale. sparkling wine’ (their words) they felt the Arom use grapes from dry-farmed, sustainably on site, where the slopes the burgeoning English sparkling wine 88) still an active participant and overseer. A former high-flying marketeer, Alison name was fitting, and so ‘Fitz’ was born. old-bush Garnacha in Aragon. The aim and soils provide excellent drainage, industry, three enthusiasts saw a gap decided to escape the politics and of this experimental winery was to make low frost risk and maximum sun exposure for something a little bit friendlier - for pressure of juggling corporate life with “My philosophy behind Fitz is a more elegant style of Garnacha. They – all critical factors to ensure the grapes both palate and wallet. And so the idea the demands of a young family to pursue experiment with anything, from whole reach optimum ripeness at this northerly for English Charmat method wine was to use the best grape varietals something more fulfilling. After studying bunch fermentation to varying amounts latitude. Currently, they grow seven born. The Charmat method, as well as from around the UK for our viticulture and winemaking part-time at of skin contact and extraction, to make grape varieties: , Pinot being a quicker way of fermenting the Plumpton College, she took the plunge fresh, fruit-forward, fun and wines of incredible depth and freshness. by acquiring 10ha of vines in Sussex, Noir and Pinot Meunier for the sparkling wine, gives the wines a fresher and more approachable fizz.” where her wines have already received wines; Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, easy-drinking style, which appeals to a Kelly Washington Wines international acclaim – IWC Silver for Bacchus and Ortega for the still wines. lot of fizz fans. The intention was to offer Dan Cahill, Fitz her Blanc de Blancs and IWSC Silver an approachable wine for any occasion. for her Blanc de Noirs. With lots of new “As a winery producing wine What the word ‘Fitz’ With English Wine Week coming “I think that, as we could and experimental plans in the pipeline, only from our own grapes, up in May, it could be the perfect we’re excited to have her on board! really means… opportunity to explore the increasing never be in a position to buy we’re focussed on quality and diversity of the English wine category But while the grapes are grown in our own vineyards, we are on innovation. We’re constantly and offer your customers a range of England and the wine is made by an looking at new ideas and styles and price points. Weingut Robert Weil really fortunate to be able English winemaker in Worthing, Sussex, to work with like-minded better ways of doing things.” it cannot be called English sparkling wine Speak to your Account Manager Ronsel do Sil Alison Nightingale, Albourne Estate (only ‘sparkling wine’), as it hasn’t been to find out more. Spain growers who take a real pride in what they produce” Native varieties from Ribeira Sacra Tamra Kelly-Washington

Maria Jose Yravedra’s 2ha of vineyards, brim with local grape varieties. The name Ironstone comes from 'ronsel', which is the furrow Las Moradas de San Martín Albourne Estate Fitz left by a boat when it sails on water. In Multi Vintage English Charmat NV this way, Ronsel do Sil aims to leave Las Moradas de San Martín its mark of passion and respect for “Working in a family As its name suggests, this wine is made from Fitz is made using the Charmat method, Spain the landscape and wine culture of selected base wines from multiple vintages a production technique most associated business is great. Ribeira Sacra. 100-year old Garnacha vines in to produce an approachable and immediately- with the production of Prosecco. It is made D.O. Madrid Everything I do, I am enjoyable style. It is made from Chardonnay, from Chardonnay along with a mixture of doing for my family. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier using the aromatic varieties that thrive in the English Las Moradas de San Martín is set in a traditional method and spends a minimum of climate, such as Seyval Blanc, Reichensteiner unique landscape, surrounded by pine We work hard and 36 months on lees. Open and expressive, the and Madeliene Angevine. The resulting woods, holm oaks, juniper and rock rose. we believe in what wine is packed with aromas of sweet baked wines are fruit driven, easy-drinking and The 100-year-old Garnacha vines grow bread, dried apricots, nuts and candied approachable in style. in sub-volcanic rock, granite and sand, we are doing.” citrus peel. which give the wines their essence: Joan Kautz (daughter depth and length balanced with natural of founder John Kautz), Ironstone acidity. The wines are subtle and elegant Maria Jose Yravedra, Ronsel do Sil Kelly Washington Wines while maintaining a lively freshness. 04 05

BIBENDUM IN IRELAND IN THE HOT SEAT WITH OUR A wealth of opportunities across the Irish Sea WINE MINDS APPRENTICES A flourishing wine scene signals huge opportunities for growth on the Sam Ameye and Romain de Courcy spill the beans on their experience so far island of Ireland, and Bibendum will be partnering with Irish wine merchant Gilbeys to make the most of it. Last year, we launched our Wine Minds programme and Wine Minds apprenticeship to support emerging industry talent. Following the applications last September, we selected Sam Ameye (Bar Swift, Soho) and Romain de Courcy (Gazelle, Mayfair) to be our first ever apprentices – and what a jam packed few months of trips, tastings and masterclasses they’ve had! With their overseas internships just around the corner, we caught up with them to see how they’ve been enjoying the experience so far. We caught up with Duncan Why partner with Bibendum? What’s in it for customers? “Bibendum’s portfolio Millar, head of wine for C&C The opportunity with Bibendum lies in The benefit to new and existing offers a huge variety in the Republic of Ireland gaining access to an extensive and varied customers lies in the combination of of countries of origin and Northern Ireland, to ROMAIN DE COURCY portfolio which spans the globe. For Gilbeys’ existing distribution network that you don’t really find out what customers Gilbeys Sales Director Duncan Millar, the and service, with added wines from can look forward to. partnership is about opening new doors. Bibendum! A bespoke selection from find in Ireland. Access Where are you going for your call ‘difficult’ are often my favourite. “Bibendum’s portfolio offers a huge Bibendum’s portfolio will be housed in to these wines gives harvest internship? There is nothing as rewarding as variety of countries of origin that you Gilbeys’ bonded warehouse in Dublin, turning a tough situation around and Who are Gilbeys? us the opportunity to I am very lucky to have been invited by don’t really find in Ireland. Access to where wines can be ordered for next day Argento getting people to have an amazing time. expand conversations Argento for the harvest in Mendoza. I had Dating back to the 1850s, the these wines gives us the opportunity to delivery to any of their regional satellite the chance to try one of their wines at a What’s your favourite drink on Gilbeys brand is a cornerstone of expand conversations with luxury hotels, depots. Gilbeys customer Shiva Gautam with luxury hotels, dinner in London which made me thirsty the list at Gazelle? the Irish wine trade. Their extensive Michelin-star restaurants and premium, (Montys of Kathmandu) says, Michelin-star knowledge of the market is based for more. wine-led venues.” “I’m looking forward to having access to restaurants and The Petite Merveille is an aromatic twist on decades of experience and a the vast portfolio that Bibendum carries”. What are you most looking forward on a French 75 with grapefruit-infused talented team of regional sales “Through partnership with Bibendum, premium, wine-led to about the trip? gin, lemon, sugar and topped with representatives. we’re hoping to increase the business we venues.” What’s the plan? in a short, frozen glass. It is do on the island of Ireland – doubling the I am ready to roll up my sleeves and fully inspired by the eponymous perfume by wine business over the next three years. Bibendum will be launching in the appreciate all the effort that goes into Hermes and is the perfect pre-dinner We’re excited about bringing Bibendum’s Republic of Ireland as ‘Gilbeys with making outstanding wine! I am also keen drink or late-night pick-me-up. core values and culture to our own wine Bibendum’, and in Northern Ireland as Argento to learn about the way people live in the business,” he says. ‘Bibendum’, in spring 2019, with tasting region, their heritage and how this goes How do you wind down after events in Cork, Galway, Dublin and What have you enjoyed most into the wine they make. a busy shift? Belfast during the first week of April. about being an apprentice? What do you like about the industry? At work we usually crack open a Spending time with winemakers has few beers and talk about changing been a unique opportunity to hear I love unexpected questions or requests; the world. It’s a great way to bring

The Irish wine scene first-hand about their philosophy it may be stressful, but it keeps me on the floor, bar and kitchen staff together Wine lists are becoming and practices in the vineyard. my toes. The customers some might as a family. We asked Gilbeys national On more diverse though, with Trade wine manager, Therese O’Toole, to tell us what people fewer Sauvignon Blancs and are drinking across the Irish Sea. more interesting varietals SAM AMEYE like Picpoul, Albarino, How do people drink wine in Ireland? Assyrtiko, Negroamaro and producers, but also the people at engaging, but that doesn’t mean that 60 Tannat starting to appear. Bibendum. It’s amazing to hang out hours a week is good for you. Take your 79% of wine purchased is in the Off Trade Journeys End and learn from everyone! time and set your own pace. Leave room compared to 21% in the On Trade. White What are people starting in your schedule for personal time. And wine dominates, with 50% market share. Where will you be heading for your always be willing to learn! to get into? harvest internship? Has the market changed in What’s your favourite drink on recent years? The market is looking for more organic, I’ll be going to Journey’s End in the list at Swift? biodynamic and vegan offerings to add Stellenbosch. As I’m from Belgium, the There has been a move away from to their wine lists, while also looking for language barrier shouldn’t be too hard It fluctuates day by day, but I’ll often quarter bottles to wines by the glass, and wines from smaller, boutique wine as Afrikaans is derived from Dutch. I’ve recommend the Piccolina as my we’re seeing a more sophisticated wine producers. never been to the country, so I’m very favourite – a delicious aperitif consisting offering in pubs and gastro pubs, as excited to go! of amontillado , white port and fig. consumers become more knowledgeable. How do you see the wine scene continuing to evolve over the Why did you apply to be a Wine What are you most looking forward How do you wind down after We are also seeing an uplift from house next few years? Minds apprentice? to about the trip? a busy shift? wines to more premium wines in the I’ve never done a harvest, so the technical I’ve always preferred taking the bus market, especially in the Dublin region. I think that the On Trade will continue to Like many bartenders, I noticed I challenge excites me. But I think getting home over the tube or a cab, as it gives Magnums are also becoming more grow in wine sales, with outlets offering a lack the level of knowledge in wine to live with the family that makes the wine me the time and space to unwind, think popular with group reservations and more diverse wine list. I could also see Journeys End that I have in spirits, so I wanted to is what I’m most looking forward to. about the day and read a book. It’s offer some theatre at the table. organic and biodynamic wines continuing bridge that gap. We’ll be opening applications to important to clear your head if you’ve to gain market share. We’ve also seen What advice would you give to be the next Wine Minds apprentice What have you enjoyed most been talking for 10 hours straight. I What are the wine list staples? increasing interest in rosé in the last few someone who was thinking of over the following months, so keep about being an apprentice? always make sure I eat something years, with a variety of interesting styles embarking on a career in is the number one country an eye out! But in the meantime, sign decent before going to bed too. being offered to the consumer. The vast amounts of knowledge hospitality? purchased in the Off Trade and this is also up to the Wine Minds programme Occasionally I skip a meal during the represented in the On Trade, especially on offer from some of the most day, so I make sure I’ve at least had for exclusive tastings, masterclasses Keep a clear head and don’t burn out for functions and as house wine. interesting people I’ve had the some proper food. and events. Just email Christina at pleasure of meeting. Not only wine within the first 5 years. Yes, it is fun and [email protected] The Temple Bar, Dublin for more details. 06 07

HOW TO SELL BIBENDUM CUBITT HOUSE ENGLISH WINE Why passion, premiumisation& and people are key SparklingBy Tom Surgey Ridgeview’s Tom Surgey’s top tips to make English Sparkling Wine work on your list

Bubbling away on the market since the early noughties, English Sparkling Wine has become a hot topic of conversation in the wine trade in recent years. The quality level has never been better and we are bombarded by the message that English Sparkling Wine is here, it’s THE thing and it’s essential you get involved. We can talk about the wines themselves another time. Any time you like. What I want to do here is consider how to sell it. What makes it a roaring success on list? Which it can, and deserves to be. Tony Gualtieri It takes more than just Just open a bottle! Cubitt House great wine Get the bottle open, and serve it by the Managing Director The sparkling section is a heavily glass. These are hand-sold wines, bringing contested area on any list and there an opportunity for a restaurant to express "We care deeply about already is a well-established player... To their passion for wine. Pamela McKellar, who we work with, so operate in the same sphere and win the co-owner of Brighton’s Gingerman Group listing, English Sparkling Wine has had was an early adopter. “We’ve been serving wanted a partner that to learn quickly and get professional. The Ridgeview for twenty years. In the early supports our philosophy, top producers understand that standard days we loved it so much we decided to and that can help of service, price-to-quality ratio and take Champagne off our list as a instil the passion for consistency of supply are non-negotiable. by-the-glass option and only pour Producers increasingly appreciate the Ridgeview. A few customers weren’t the product with our requirements of the trade and know that amused, but once they tried their free team, as well as bring it takes more than just great wine to make sample they soon became fans.” the offering to life with a success. Whether that’s in a pub or in a our guests. I really felt Michelin star restaurant. “Our customers are incredibly that Bibendum would curious and love to know the The Coach Makers Arms, Cubitt House be able to do this..." “English Sparkling Wines have history and provenance of a wine. There’s a great story to tell.” gained a well-deserved reputation Tell us more about the philosophy Ben McKellar, Gingerman Group London neighbourhoods – being an to the list. We also look to be relevant to and identity among consumers, Cubitt House’s ‘farm-to- of your pubs. active part of the community definitely customers' changing needs and therefore gets people back through the door. we invested in Coravin to ensure our by- driven by award-winning Hop on a train and get in fork’, or ‘grape-to-glass’, We have a very simple mantra – locally the vineyard Essentially, customers like our upmarket the-glass range is as extensive as possible, producers. At Wright Brothers philosophy is one that we sourced, carefully crafted, expertly but down to earth atmosphere which is to reflect changing customer habits to we love to champion British share, which is why we’re so delivered. We buy the best produce we nurtured by our team, who are well trained, drink less, but better quality. Staff confidence is key and the vineyards can, sourced in the UK, look after it well, are local, so get down there! Easy access pleased to be entering 2019 knowledgeable and passionate about what brands and offer locally sourced and ensure our well-trained teams deliver What are your thoughts on the to the wineries brings a unique we deliver. products where possible, but as their new wine partner! it to the guest with best in class service. current restaurant climate in opportunity to bring English Sparkling It’s an exciting time to be Sustainability is important to us, so we’re We’re delighted to be your new the UK? above all, English Sparkling Wine Wine into your overall wine training. very proud to be one of the SRA wine supplier, why did you choose Barworks’ Mike Harrington agrees. “Key listing premium, interesting delivers the quality that we enjoy (Sustainable Restaurant Association) Bibendum? I think it will continue to be a challenging to its success across our group has been wines as consumers are with our oysters and seafood.” 3-star rated founding members. environment. Too much competition the engagement of our staff. With the increasingly starting to We care deeply about who we work with, came into the market, and cost inflation Ivan Ruiz, Wright Brothers producers being so close to London, drink outside the box… so wanted a partner that supports our has made it difficult to stay guest focused. we have been able to take staff to the "We have a very simple mantra philosophy, and that can help instil the Both these things can lead operators to winery, and really raise the confidence Cubitt House has five eclectic, cosy – locally sourced, carefully passion for the product with our team, as make the wrong short-term decisions. Picking the right price point and knowledge of our teams.” and locally run pubs in the heart of crafted, expertly delivered." well as bring the offering to life with our I think that staying true to your core London. We’re working together guests. I really felt that Bibendum would values, as difficult as that can be at times, England’s cool climate necessitates a What does the future hold? to bring interesting, delicious What challenges have you faced be able to do this, with their carefully is imperative to your long-term success. dedication to quality and hands-on wines with a story to the bustling selected wine producers, their training The future is in increasing the range. since you joined the business? production, which is in itself a good thing, communities where the pubs are resource for our staff, and their ability to What exciting prospects have you Choosing two or three producers to have but it does put the final product in the located, providing a range of not I’ve been with the business for one year, share the excitement for the wines with got for 2019? on list creates a visible, prominent section. premium category. That said, there are a only premium, but great value and in that time, it’s been all about our guests, by inviting winemakers to The Doyle Collection’s Anne McHale MW As a business, we are looking to carefully range of price-points to fit the needs of wines that suit their modern British recruiting, retaining and developing the come to our pubs and meet them. is ahead of this curve, “For me, the main grow, and as each of our sites is unique, it’s your customers, whether it’s pouring fizz cuisine and home-from-home vibe. best talent. There is no doubt that it has positive is that we are debunking the myth exciting to look at adding a distinctive new or an aspirational top-tier bottle. English We caught up with Cubitt House become harder to recruit in the industry, Premiumisation has been the focus that England can't produce world-class addition to the ‘family’ during the year. Sparkling Wine can be a great house Managing Director Tony Gualtieri as the number of applicants for roles has while we’ve worked together on wine! I think it's really special to offer With the core business we are doing lots fizz but consider making it a stepping to find out more about the pubs diminished significantly, so people are compiling your list. What factors guests the chance to realise that for of investment in systems to make us more stone between entry-level Prosecco and and what this year has in store. the challenge that we focus our efforts on. have been key in your mind while higher-priced Champagne to give more themselves by having such a wide choice selecting the new offering? efficient and stronger, so we can focus on focus on the sparkling section and of quality examples in the Coral Room. What is it about Cubitt House that what really matters in terms of enhancing invite customers to enjoy a higher I love the idea that we are encouraging brings your customers back? Picking winemakers with a story and a guest experience. A new website for each quality experience. them to explore something new.” passion that mirrors Cubitt House was pub is also due to go live in the spring. Tom Surgey, Ridgeview Our pubs are housed in uniquely-restored, paramount. This makes it really easy to beautiful buildings nestled in great get my team passionate about the changes 08 09

NEW WAVE

Say goodbye to the fruit bomb ferments and yeasts, gently basket AUSTRALIA pressing the grapes and then ageing Gone – or at least going – are the big, rich, them in large wood neutral formats. By Richard Siddle fruit bomb, oak-laden wines that arguably helped Australia make its name in its There’s more to Australia than initial heyday of the 1980s and 1990s. Shiraz and Chardonnay Following a trip and tasting tour Down Under, Instead we are seeing the lighter, brighter, Richard Siddle reports on how Australia’s fresher, fruit-forward, acid-driven wines Central to this change in winemaking that are so common throughout the world, styles has been the introduction, or alternative wine scene is hitting the mainstream and the ones consumers are increasingly at least wider use, of non-traditional turning to. Australian grape varieties, particularly from Italy, Greece and across the Wines to drink in the Australian sun Mediterranean. As Colin McBryde of Some Young Punks explains: “There Australia has collectively woken up to is definitely an avid interest by a lot the kind of wines that are best suited to of the grape growing and winemaking the climate where they are being made, community to look to varieties that and it’s what goes best with a largely can grow well under what is becoming Asian-inspired cuisine. more stringent conditions.”

But this is not an overnight phenomenon Sipping a light, refreshing, in Australia. These varieties have been fruity wine simply makes used in the country for decades, albeit only in small pockets, and usually by sense when you have the growers whose families emigrated sun beating down on you from those countries. for most of the year. Ever tried Australian Sangiovese

or Tempranillo? This is not a fad, but a nationwide The difference now is that producers revolution taking place in the mid to across the country are latching on to premium end of the how well the likes of Sangiovese and industry. It crucially covers the growing Tempranillo are suited to the growing number of producers who are returning conditions in their respective regions. to the minimum intervention winemaking practices that earlier generations used to It is encouraging younger winemakers follow. This was the way to make wine to move and go to different areas of the before the emphasis switched to what country to make their wine. you put into them to keep them stable and clean, rather than producing what the vines naturally allowed you to make. The fact these varieties have With a focus on lightness, elegance and not been tried in most areas drinkability, winemakers are looking to pick earlier, and do everything they can of the country is creating a to maintain acidity, ripeness, texture and ‘give it a go’ culture among flavour in the grapes. They are also holding a new breed of winemakers. on to their skins, using open and natural Col McBryde of Some Young Punks

Australians are world Which is a pretty good way to understand and appreciate the Richard is an award-winning famous for being laid big changes taking place in the business journalist. Former editor back. In fact, they are premium Australian wine scene. pretty proud of it. You don’t need to travel to the of Harpers Wine & Spirit he now runs his own website (The-Buyer.net), Things happen for a other side of the world to know Australian wines at the top end looking at trends and analysis of the reason Down Under – are changing, and changing fast. premium On Trade. He also produces and in their own time. a fortnightly insights newsletter on But then it’s hard to be the global wine industry called rushing around chasing Grapevine for the London Wine your own tail when it’s Fair. You can follow him on so hot for much of twitter at @richardsiddle. Some Young Punks the year. 10 11

Canberra, for example, is fast being seen style, and diligent respect to where the pruning, irrigation and when they are A new lease of life for Australia’s as having the ideal hot-day and cold-night fruit was grown,” he says. picking their grapes. “We are, for example, grape growers growing conditions for more alternative picking three weeks earlier than we used to THE FRENCH varieties, like Assyrtiko and Aglianico, Why do Mediterranean varieties do and doing more punch downs in the These winemakers often don’t own any and attracting a new type of winemaker so well in Australia? winery,” he says. vines themselves, but are seeking out as a result. growers that have the grapes they are Peter Schell of Spinifex Wines says he John Hughes has built his whole business, looking for. It is, in turn, giving those The new wave scene works with Mediterranean varieties like Rieslingfreak, around just that one variety growers a new lease of life. Since the From modernists to minimalists, we’re championing some Mataro and Grenache Gris because they that he makes and sources from the Clare great wine glut in Australia in the late Helping to drive these changes are have done so well in the Barossa region and Eden Valleys and Polish Hill River, and 2000s many growers have struggled to of France’sArtists unsung winemaking heroes winemakers who are coming together to for some 150 years. “That’s what attracted “would not work with any other variety,” make ends meet, forced to take whatever share ideas and experiences and help give me here,” he says. Now he is looking at price the bulk market would allow for their a real voice to this new wave, alternative different grapes like Vermentino because grapes. Now younger winemakers keen to scene. Groups like the Artisans of Barossa, it is “so heat resistant and holds onto its He thinks "Gruner Veltiner make wine differently are offering them a We have an amazing range of Chablis to flood your senses the Basket Range in the Adelaide Hills and acidity and freshness. Vermentino is such a separate, more premium market for them producers throughout France The wines of Didier Picq, for example, are Wine is a unique the Young Guns in Margaret River. sustainable grape to grow here,” he says. will have a good chance to work with. crafting exciting, unique and some of the best in Chablis, understated “But it will take us 20 years to determine of being the next popular expression of a above all, delicious wines, each but serious, pure and elegant, refined and Col of Some Young Punks says working the best way to work with these varieties. It would be a mistake to think it was only variety in Australia." textured. I can’t get enough of them. It’s time and a place with varieties like Nero D’Avola and It is also making us re-assess the varieties at the fringes of the main Australian wine staying true to their terroir while wine like this that doesn’t shout for your Sangiovese “has helped create a great we already have here and how we are industry where minimum intervention pushing the boundaries in pursuit through the lens of a attention; it quietly beckons you until, all buoyancy of new wines, brands, and a handling them.” winemaking and alternative wines are of perfection. Bibendum buyer of a sudden, it floods your senses leaving particular producer. whole new realm of people to share and coming through. Some of the country’s Robert Mathias takes us on a disseminate information with. We're not Peter believes the changes taking place are biggest and most prestigious names you all too ready for the next sip. trying to emulate these varieties in their down to a combination of factors including journey to discover more… have been making wine in this way for The Cotes du Rhone’s best native place, merely draw inspiration and climate change, but also a willingness decades, it’s only now there is so much How is wine connected to art? kept secret make something that hopefully resembles among winemakers to “control flavours” in more emphasis on how a wine is made varietal typicity, but with an Australian their wine through viticultural techniques, that it is coming to the fore. Harmony, depth, balance… these are Getting to know each winemaker, all ways we describe wine, and also occasionally they let slip small details ways we describe art. And like art, that shed new light onto the story of the experience of drinking wine is each wine. None more so than veteran more than the sum of its parts. winemaker (and octogenarian) Pierre Dumazet. His wines, from some of the Wine is a unique expression of a oldest vines of the appellation, are time and a place through the lens unashamedly classic in style, but he of a particular producer. While has been working in a biodynamic producers make wine in vastly direction for decades. The wines are different environments, with different regal, confident and classical. His Cotes techniques and approaches that are du Rhone Blanc must be one of the best sometimes wildly contrasting, each kept secrets of the appellation – but no is an expression of a specific time more! Incidentally, we’ve known Pierre and place. and his family for well over 30 years.

Our French Artists programme Each producer in this series has a unique story we are proud to share. The aim of the French Artists programme Some might be called modernists, is to shed light on a number of our some neo-classicists, some minimalists. excellent producers who embody exactly All of them have a unique respect for this. While they might go about their John Hughes of Rieslingfreak terroir, for nature and for producing winemaking in different ways, they wine that is more than just the sum all produce something just a little bit of its parts. Wine that is art. ‘different’. That is, something especially artistic and uniquely connected to nature and their environment.

To learn more about these special producers, and to find out how you can get involved, check out the French Artists guide on our website or contact Peter Schell of Spinifex Wines Peter Schell of Spinifex Wines your Account Manager for details. 12 13

THERE’S MORE TO Setting up shop in their immaculately DAY ONE: renovated tasting room, we were treated Getting to grips with to a dazzling array of wines which revealed GERMANY THAN RIESLING Riesling in the Mosel several surprises. Oxidation in the winemaking process is a friend at Molitor, So where to start? Well, in adding a level of stability beyond anything Our training team explore preconception-smashing wines order to get our bearings it we believed possible. Some of the wines we tried had been opened and kept in from Mosel, Rheinhessen, Baden and Nahe. had to be with Riesling, the the fridge for months prior to our arrival! great grape of Germany. And if you’re looking for Riesling was front-and-centre here, great Riesling, there’s no but Molitor is far from a one-trick pony. How does the VDP classification I was particularly blown away by a trio of work? Do the Germans drink as better place to find it than dry Pinot Blancs, which were delightfully much sweet Riesling as we think at Markus Molitor in the fresh and aromatic, with a lovely textural they do? German Cabernet Middle Mosel. quality from time spent in oak. Sauvignon… WHAT!? In answer to one of our pressing questions, we were told that the German market Bibendum’s training team wanted prefers drier wines and so most of Molitor’s answers. So last September our sweeter styles are destined for export. resident gang of wine geeks Who’d have thought it! hopped on a flight to Frankfurt for a 3-day whirlwind excursion. The Tasting Room, Markus Molitor Markus Molitor On their quest for knowledge they travelled from the meandering Mosel to the edge of the Black Forest, dropping in to pick our producers' brains along the way. The shift in focus from Molitor was arresting, with non-native varieties such

Bibendum Wine Educator, Jamie DAY TWO: as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, , Barrow, tells us more. Catching up with Merlot and Petit Verdot being a unique selling point for this non-conformist Rheinhessen’s producer. non-comfortists We sampled their Sauvignon Blanc, which had a lovely Bacchus-esque nose of hedgerow flowers and white pepper. Apparently Sauvignon has been grown The following day we historically in Germany under the name Muscat Sylvaner, which was news to us! travelled South and East The Bordeaux-style reds were also a revelation. Full-bodied, dense, and chock-full to the Rheinhessen, where of spicy dark fruit and toasty oak nuances. dramatic riverside slopes were replaced with gently Our next destination was Weingut Kopp, on the edge of the Black Forest in undulating countryside. Baden, where (first things first) we drank in the glorious views from the top of the Fegenwaldchen vineyard, glass of Sekt in hand. GERMANY At Peth-Wetz, we were DAY ONE greeted by Christian That evening, we were treated to a marvellous spread of bread, cheeses and the and Maja Luise Peth in obligatory cured meats to accompany our wine tasting. Fabulous Pinot Blancs their discreet and and Rieslings soon moved on to the more experimental aspects of Kopp’s portfolio, including an oily, fragrant amphora-fermented Viognier and a Pinot Gris with charming winery. enough skin contact to turn it a luminescent salmon-pink. Finally we moved onto the Spatburgunders for which Baden is famed, which were every bit as silky, DAY THREE elegant and complex as we’d hoped.

Christian Peth of Peth-Wetz

MOSEL NAHE RHEINHESSEN Our tasting here was possibly the most DAY THREE: academic of our trip, but every bit as Wine nerd heaven! enjoyable for a bunch of wine nerds like us! The Pradikat system was revealed Our final destination took in all its logical glory, as we tasted wines us back north to Nahe, and from the same vineyards and vintage, the family-run winery of but with varying degrees of ripeness. Joh. Bapt. Schafer. We also grilled Sebastian Schafer on BADEN the classifications of the Association of German Pradikat Wine Estates (VDP). Think of the Burgundian premier cru and grand cru classifications, and you’ve basically got it!

DAY TWO Joh. Bapt. Schafer. 14 15

WHISKEY THE ‘AMERICAN’ WAY A ROUND OF APPLAUSE What happens when you taste well-known brands without knowing what they are? Celebrating our award-winning producers

Spier Stellenbosch, South Africa Being named International Wine & Spirit Argento Competition (IWSC) Mendoza, Argentina Producer of the Year was the cherry on top for Spier, following a remarkable 2018. With Argento took home two gold medals for their gold awards at the Sommelier Wine Awards Reserve Cabernet Franc 2016 and Reserve (SWA) for their Signature Chenin Blanc 2017 Organic Malbec 2015 at the Women’s Wine and 21 Gables Pinotage, as well as Critics & Spirits Awards 2018, the only Argentinean Choice for the latter, they also took home producer to receive gold. the IWSC Chenin Blanc Trophy 2018 and Sauvignon Blanc Trophy 2018 for their 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2016 and 21 Gables Sauvignon Blanc 2017 respectively.

Ridgeview Santa Rita Sussex, England Chile We invited a panel of industry Round one: experts to join Bibendum’s Straight up Ridgeview received the coveted IWSC Tim Atkin MW awarded the Santa Rita Christina Schneider at Soho Winemaker of the Year Trophy 2018, as well Casa Real 2014 96 points, with the IWSC ...if we’ve as IWSC English Wine Producer of the Year 2018 also awarding it gold outstanding. bar Milroy’s, for the latest in The first round involved tasting four flights of straight American whiskey. 2018. They picked up three awards at the They took home a further two silver and our spirits-based ‘Explorer 20 in total, which put our experts’ learnt Champagne and Sparkling World Wine two bronze medals from the International Series’ events. palates through their paces! Championships 2018 (CSWWC) – gold for Wine Challenge (IWC) too. their Rosé de Noirs 2014, and two silver The idea behind the series is Some of the favourites included Wild anything, medals for their 2014 Blanc de Blancs and to see what happens when you Turkey, which Zita Tari (Milk & Honey) Blanc de Noirs. remove the marketing, packaging described as tasting like “honey water it’s that and preconceptions around and orange blossom”, and Knob Creek, which Christina (Bibendum) scored a famous brands. By tasting totally 9/10, describing it as “ballsy and people’s blind we remove the focus on spicy – very grown up”. branding and get back to the good stuff: what’s actually in Round two: tastes for La Chablisienne the bottle. Shaken and stirred Stellenrust Chablis, France whiskey is Stellenbosch, South Africa Round two involved mixing the same La Chablisienne had a very successful run brands from round one into classic In the Decanter World Wine Awards 2018, at the IWSC 2018, picking up not only a cocktails. Our experts tried a series incredibly Stellenrust’s Chenin Blanc 2017 received gold for their Chablis Grand Cru Chateau of Bourbon Old-Fashioneds and gold and 95 points. They swept 6 silver Grenouilles 2014 and silver for the 1er Rye Sazeracs. medals at the IWSC 2018, including a diverse. Cru Vaillons 2015, but also the overall silver outstanding award for the 53 IWSC French Wine Producer of the Year. Wild Turkey did well in this round Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2017. too, with James Mills (Mint Gun Club) enjoying hints of “nutmeg and mace”. Christina's favourite Explorer Series The conclusion? whiskey drink Well known brands can Bibendum are as passionate Scofflaw about premium spirits as we still surprise us are about great wines. So why A feistier take on a classic from not head to the Explorer Series If we learnt anything at the end of Henry's New York Bar in Paris. section of our website to find the tasting, it’s that people’s tastes for out more about some of our whiskey are incredibly diverse. Some Ingredients Bisol favourite white rums, vermouths of our bartenders wanted heat, body Prosecco, Italy and American whiskeys. and spice – others wanted delicacy, 45ml Straight rye whiskey (or high Go to bibendum-wine.co.uk/ fragrance and freshness. These rye bourbon), bottled in bond Bisol prove there’s more to Prosecco than explorer-series/ differences in palates were clearly 20ml Dry vermouth meets the eye. They were awarded the IWC reflected in everyone’s scoring on 15ml Fresh lemon juice Italian Sparkling Wine Trophy for their We run our Explorer Series the day. 15ml Grenadine Cartizze Valdobbiadene Superior, with the Awards can be a useful guide for helping events throughout the year. 1 dash Orange bitters same wine also receiving gold at the SWA. customers decide which wine to pick from your list. So keep your eyes on our website Were our panel surprised by the results? So ask your Account Manager for more information about any Not particularly, but many were happy or follow us on Twitter and Serve of the wines on this page, or about other award-winning wines Instagram @bibendumwine to see old favourites match (and surpass) for details of the next event. expectations, while others were surprised Up with a lemon twist from our portfolio. by some of the brands that they pour every day. JOIN THE CONVERSATION

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