L-382 4-H DEMONSTRATION GUIDE LEATHERWORK SERIES III

Lacing Leather

.Lacing, one o.f the .mo~e important oPerations in STITCHES: makIng leather arttcles, IS sImple, easily learned, very strong, covers the raw edges of seams in a finished RUNNING : The simple running stitch v:rorkmanlik~ manner, and helps make the complete ar­ works up fast. It takes about 1¥2 times as much ticles attraalve. as the length of the . Thin calf and goat skins make the very best . Next are dog and squirrel leathers. Sheepskin is rath­ er weak and stretchy. There are no set rules governing the size of the lace. Simply select what your judgment tells you is right. .

ARKIN AND SPACING: Distance from edge: Lace's width. Distance between holes, center to center:, For thongs less than 1/8 inch, holes can be 3/16 or 1/4 inch apart; for wider lace, 5/16 to 3/8 inch apart. MARKING: For straight seams, use a ruler; for curves, use a compass or pair of dividers, drawing lines with a pencil. Then, with a sharp awl, prick the leath­ ItDama&, Stitch er on the face or smooth side (the hair side) to mark the location of each hole.

HOLES: : Always recommended for wid­ PUNCHING: Practice on scrap leather before er thongs, the whip stitch is both strong and attractive tackling your work. Get clean- holes, accurately and requires about 2 ¥2 times as much lace as the length spotted over the pricks marking the hole centers. Punches of the seam. Note how the corner is turned by passing must be sharp. If a punch cuts ragged edges, use a solid thong twice through the corner Role, making the thong piece of leather under the work. Holes usually are lie flat at the corner edge. slightly smaller than the lace, but if a needle is used, the needle's eye may require slightly larger holes. Either system is OK. CUT SLITS: Narrow slits cut parallel to the edge often are used instead of punched holes for small ar.. ticles when seams are jointed with narrow 1/16 inch thongs. Wide laces also may be laced in slits, espec­ ially for durable articles such as revolver holsters, gun cases, etc. For square corners, make one slit across the corner. Around curves or for covering the seam's raw edge completely, cut slits at about a 30-degree angle. Slits are placed the same distance from the edge as punched holes. The whip stitch is almost invariably used with slits. JOINED PIECES: Holes must coincide in pieces to be joined together. Fasten the pieces together firm­ ly with paper clips, tacks or small clamps, punching all edges at once. Whip Stitch DOUBLE WHIP: Ordinarily used on large pro­ STARTING POINT: Deciding where to start re­ jects where extra strength is required and where it is quires only a little study and experience. On some ar­ desireu to practtcally cover the raw edge of the seam. ticles, two seams may have to be carried together. On This stitch requires about five times as much lace as the others, it may be necessary to lace certain small parts length of the seam. The lace passes through each hole together before joining the main piece. On still others, twice and through corner holes four times. it may be necessary to start in,the center and lace toward STITCH: Very attractive and the ends. especially desirable for personal articles, the buttonhole ENDS: At the start and finish, leave an inch of stitch takes five times as much lace as the length of the lacing free. For concealment, the ends usually are push­ seam. ed under two or three stitches on the inside of the work where they will not show, but in some articles, the ends can just be pushed between the seams. In billfolds and other articles which open out, tuck each end under the nearest stitch, glue with a tiny drop of cement, and then cut it off close to the stitch.

SPLICING: To lengthen a thong, splice another to it. Shave "the end of each thong (top of one, bottom of the other) for about 3/4 inch. Cover both with glue, letting it get sticky. Then press the ends together. Tap lightly with a mallet. Then let it dry.

Battonhole Stitch

LAYOVER STITCH: A very ornamental stitch, the layover is used on personal articles joined with nar­ row lace. It takes six times as much lace as the length of the seam.

SHAVING: Before punching or slitting thick leather, it is n"eces­ sary to shave down the edges to prevent bulkiness at the seam. With thin materials, shaving is not always needed. The shaved edge can be about half the original thickness, extending nearly twice the distance the holes are set back from the edge.

LACING: NEEDLES: Either a regular lacing needle or TECHNIQUE: Keep thong lying flat at all times small needle may be used. Be sure holes are while lacing. Work so the rough or flesh side of the big enough to take the needle's eye. Shave the end of leather is underneath, next to the article being laced. the lace thin on the flesh side. Also, shave a thin space from right side of leather through to the back, one-half inch long and one inch from the end of the since the back or flesh side often is rough. Lacing lace to hold the needle. from front to the back prevents pulling small shreds WITHOUT NEEDLES: Either fine wire or glue through the hole and spoiling neatness. will stiffen the end of the lace so that it will enter the FINISH: Lay the finished seam on a smooth holes easily. A large awl may be needed to open holes board and hammer slightly with a mallet to remove for insertion of the lace. bulges or puckers.

Prepared by M. K. THORNVON, Former Extension Agricultural Chemist TEXAS A. & M. COLLEGE SYSfEM

TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

J. E. HUTCHISON. DIRECTOR. COLLEGE STATION, TEXAS

Cooperative Extension Work in A~iculture and ~onle Econolnics, The Texas A. & lYI. College System and the United States Department of AgrIculture cooperatIng. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914.