One Day perfect Clockwise from opposite page: cafe culture at GPO; joggers on The Tan; Movida Next Door; street art in a Fitzroy laneway Melbourne Plunge into a laneway labyrinth, take a two-wheeled tour along the Yarra, snap up funky finds in Fitzroy and go gourmet grazing from dawn to dusk in the world’s most liveable city.

Words Kendall Hill photography Sharyn Cairns

Melbourne, ’s most flourishing capital city, is a leafy bayside metropolis of 4.2 million people with a bold personality that values sport and culture, design 09.00 Saddle up on one of the 600 blue and cuisine – in more or less equal measure. Its rich multicultural heritage (it is bicycles located at Melbourne Bike the world’s third-largest Greek-speaking city, with major Chinese-, Vietnamese- Share (www.melbournebikeshare.com. au) stations around the CBD and set and Italian-speaking populations) and continental climate lend Melbourne off on a two-wheeled tour of the city. a distinctly European aura. Mix in a maze of vibrant laneways, top-flight fashion Cycle routes on dedicated bike lanes include the Capital City Trail that hugs and art, and a revitalised riverfront, and the city rewards curiosity at every turn. the and takes in the sights of Southbank, Birrarung Marr park and sporting landmarks such as the , Rod Laver 07:00 hectares with hundreds of Arena and the striking new Melbourne Start the day with a dilemma – stallholders, the 134-year-old market Rectangular Stadium. An ideal choice to exercise or to eat? Join the ranks offers delicious insights into the local in warmer weather is the Bayside Trail, of sporty types in a lap or two of obsession with fine produce. Don’t which loops around Port Phillip The Tan, a 3.8km running track around even think of departing without to fashionable St Kilda and beyond. the Royal Botanic Gardens and King’s ordering the classic Queen Vic Wearing a helmet is compulsory Domain, or indulge in a visit to the breakfast of bratwurst roll and a latte in , so pick one up for $5 at happy hunting grounds of the Queen from the Melbourne Bratwurst Shop the nearest 7-Eleven and once you’ve Victoria Market. Spread over seven at the entrance on Therry Street. finished, return it to get a $3 refund. 

OCTOBER 2012 QANTAS 95 One perfect Day

More at T ravelinsider

WALK THIS WAY Five must-do Melbourne tours by foot. travelinsider.qantas.com.au/ five_must-do_walking_tours_in_melbourne.htm ALL THAT GLITTERS Designer Sally Marsland’s five essential must-visits on the contemporary jewellery scene. travelinsider.qantas.com.au/jewellery_designer_ sally_marslands_must-see_melbourne_guide.htm MICROBREWERIES Wet your whistle with a tour of craft beer cellar doors. travelinsider.qantas.com.au/ melbournes_micro_breweries.htm EAT, PLAY, STAY The very best of Melbourne shopping, dining and accommodation. travelinsider. qantas.com.au/melbourne_eat_play_stay.htm

qantas.com/travelinsider

Melbourne is its $138.5m renovation, including often described the new riverside wing, lavish ceilings as Australia’s most European coated in Dutch gold leaf and leather city: a Piaggio walls handcrafted from the hides of scooter adds Swedish cows. The lively, 45-minute a bit of Italian narrated walk (book in advance Clockwise from cred to this top left: Royal next door (the starkly modern contemporary Indigenous works Fitzroy laneway at artscentremelbourne.com.au) 11.00 12.30 Exhibition 14.00 building with a ski-jump roofline) to the blue-chip Anna Schwartz (left) explores new angles and old haunts After dropping your bike back in The once working-class suburbs of Building; After lunch, walk over to the Carlton and set off on a self-guided walk art space at No.185. Keep your to a commentary that features Christine for town, take the 112 tram from Collins Fitzroy and Collingwood are now the fashion in Gardens and the 1880 Royal Exhibition of the grounds. Alternatively, hosted eyes peeled for the slick street art cameos from Diana, Princess of Wales, Street to funky Fitzroy to browse epicentre of the northside’s eclectic Flinders Lane; Building, which together form tours of the Exhibition Building all around – Hosier Lane’s aerosol- Pavarotti and Tina Arena (apparently the unique boutiques of Brunswick, eating scene. The neighbourhood Anna Schwartz Australia’s first World Heritage-listed, depart most days at 2pm next door. tattooed bluestone has become a her last concert here sent two women Gallery; Movida Gertrude and Smith Streets. This is offers every wining and dining option Next Door non-Indigenous cultural site. This rare Melbourne trademark, while Union into labour). The tour concludes with the creative hub of the capital with imaginable. Try the $4 lunch pizzas at reminder of grand 19th-century Lane has its own street-art curator. bubbles and canapés at the bar. offerings as diverse as bespoke Bimbo Deluxe (bimbodeluxe.com.au) exhibition architecture – the 16.00 perfumes and Scandinavian furniture. on the corner of Brunswick and Rose, dome was inspired by Brunelleschi’s Explore city laneways such as Little Gertrude Street is highly creative Fitzroy; or the new-school Italian fare 15th-century Duomo in Florence Collins Street and Flinders Lane for 17.30 19.00 and cuisine-driven, raffish Smith has at Gorski and Jones (gorskiandjones. – was where Australia’s first federal fine art and beautifully tailored Head over to the revamped Hamer Plunge back into Melbourne’s laneway strong suits in industrial design and com), 304 Smith Street, Collingwood; parliament was sworn in and served fashion (Christine at 181 Flinders Lane Hall, Melbourne’s more modest rival labyrinth to sample some of the city’s designer restaurants, and Brunswick or perhaps you’d prefer pit-roasted as a basketball and weightlifting venue is renowned for its accessories and to the Sydney Opera House, at 100 more refined restaurants. Here the is the increasingly commercial pleasures at Casa Ciuccio (casaciuccio. during the 1956 Olympic Games. Pick lavish European labels). Flinders Lane St Kilda Road. In less than an hour smartest plan of attack is some heart of bohemian Melbourne. com.au), 15 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy. up a map at the is gallery row, with everything from you can discover the highlights of progressive dinner grazing on one 

96 QANTAS OCTOBER 2012 OCTOBER 2012 QANTAS 97 One perfect Day

word up

A SHORT HISTORY OF MELBOURNE ARCHITECTURE Philip Goad (Pesaro) Traces the city’s built heritage from gold-rush grandeur to monumental deco, mid-century modern and cutting-edge 21st-century landmarks.

THE BIRTH OF MELBOURNE Edited by Tim Flannery (Text) Professor Flannery marshals a diverse range of voices, from tribal elders to governors and criminals, uncovering fascinating stories from the city’s colonial beginnings.

MELBOURNE Sophie Cunningham (New South) Part memoir, part history, part elegy – a personal and detailed account of Clockwise the author’s hometown – “a city of from top: Siglo inside places and conversation”. 23.00 rooftop; buffalo To look at Melbourne’s bar scene mozzarella, zucchini or two plates at each venue. you’d think the city has a drinking fritters, Start with the best tapas this side problem. But the only problem mint and pea of Barcelona at MoVida Next Door here is deciding where to drink. For salad at Coda; a Siglo-style (164 Flinders Street, movida.com.au/ a sophisticated nightcap, ascend the Manhattan; movida-next-door); move on to Coda stairs on Spring Street to the stylish Coda bar (141 Flinders Lane, codarestaurant.com. rooftop hangout Siglo (Level 2/161). For airfares au) for Adam D’Sylva’s artful, Asian- Its Parisian-inspired terrace with views call Qantas on monkey grip inspired plates; then to San Telmo to the neoclassical Parliament House, 13 13 13 or visit Helen Garner (Penguin) (14 Meyers Place, santelmo.com.au) St Andrews Spire and ornate facade qantas.com. For holiday packages Gritty, inner-city Melbourne in the for hearty Argentine snacks; and Pei of the Princess Theatre is a winning ’70s. Sex, drugs and rock’n’roll – plus to Melbourne call Modern (45 Collins Street, peimodern. spot to toast the end of one perfect Qantas Holidays lounging around at the Fitzroy Baths. com.au) for its smart bar menu. day in marvellous Melbourne. c on 13 14 15.

98 QANTAS OCTOBER 2012