Romania: painting along the enchanted road with Eleanor White and Rufus Reade 15 to 30 September 2017

The Bucovina region is in Molda- via in north-eastern Romania. The legend tells of a prince who was out hunting with his dog, Molda. Crossing a river the dog drowned and the prince named the land after his beloved Molda. In 1775 the area became part of a province named Galicia which remained in Habsburg hands until 1918 when Bucovina was returned to Roma- nia. Bucovina is the Romanian version of the Austrian name for the area: the land of beech trees.

The remarkable thing about Bucovina are the churches and monasteries, some of them famous for being painted inside and out, offering an interesting mix- ture of traditional styles and Byzantine elements.

By contrast we will visit Maramures, much of it surrounded by mountains, with lovely valleys. Here there are also 17th and 18th century wooden churches. The pace of the holiday will be dic- tated by wanting to linger in order to paint and draw. We intend to pause in villages and observe the rural round, under Eleanor White’s expert tuition. Eleanor and Rufus have been collaborating with their painting holidays since 1994.

Our Painting Tutor

Eleanor White set up Bridge House Art in Ullapool in 1994, where she runs an art portfolio course. She also teaches and runs art workshops at locations throughout the Highlands and Islands as well as elsewhere in Scotland, England and in Spain. She is happy to teach all levels of abilities. Most days will begin with a 20 minute talk on the theme of the day, illustrated with the work of artists.

Highlights

Working with Eleanor White as our painting tutor

Northern Moldovia

The painted churches of Bucovina

Rural Romania

Remote Saxon Villages

The rolling hills of the Muramures

Tour is led by Rufus Reade JOURNEY DETAILS

Location: Romania Dates: 15 to 28 September 2017 Duration: 13 nights Max: 20 travellers Price: £2995 Single room supplement: £160 Deposit: £250 Tour Code: RR 09/17

What’s included: Accom- modation in 3 star hotels and best available guesthouses (attached bathrooms in all rooms), all meals, two internal flights, all land transport by placed some years later un- Transfer to road and by train as described der the protection of Mount town for overnight accommo- in the itinerary, entry to all the Athos. Iasi is famous for its dation at La Roata pension- sites mentioned, and all tips. food though we don’t plan http://la-roata.ro/ Accommodation in the itiner- long lunches as this interrupts Distance: Iasi-Gura Humorului: ary is for illustrative purposes painting and drawing! 205 kms – around 3 ½ to 4 hrs and subject to availability. We In the afternoon we’ll spend driving time. are accompanied by a British time at Trei Ierarhi (the Three painting tutor. The tour is es- Hierarchs) monastery church Day 4: In the morning corted by Rufus Reade. built in 17th century, consid- drive to the Humor Monastery ered to be the most extraor- famous for the use of red paint. What’s not included: Your dinary building of Iasi. The The exterior paintings at Hu- international flights, personal present church is a late 19th mor are known to be the oldest travel insurance, drinks, laun- century reconstruction. Those in Bucovina. After lunch we dry, phonecalls, and painting interested may be able to see can explore one of the villages materials. the monastery’s collection of along Humor River. Return for old icons. Overnight in the to La Roata pension in Gura The tour is organised by Rufus Grand Hotel Traian, Iasi. Humorului. Reade Tours, 40 Pilrig Street, Distance: Gura Humorului-Ma- Edinburgh EH6 5AL Day 3 : Travel west nastirea Humorului: 9 kms. [email protected] heading to Targu Neamt town to visit the Agapia Monastery Day 5: Today our theme Our Itinerary (17th century), housing over is ‘blue’: we’ll drive to Voronet 500 nuns (one of the largest Painted Monastery - famous Day 1: The tour begins communities of its kind in Ro- for its use of blue paint and a with your arrival in Bucharest. mania). The church is famous vast mural depicting the Day We’ll catch the local flight for being painted in 1901-1902 of Judgement on its west wall. to Iasi. Transfer to the 4 star by Nicolae Grigorescu – Ro- Lunch at Casa Elena restau- Grand Hotel Traian (designed mania’s leading impressionist, rant in Voronet village. In in 1882 by the Eiffel Company), and also for the textile work- the afternoon we’ll explore a Iasi. shops where the nuns produce village in the valley of Voronet carpets, wall hanging and rugs. river. Return to Gura Humoru- Day 2 : We’ll begin with We’ll have lunch in the mon- lui town for our third night in a peaceful haven in Iasi, the astery. In the afternoon we’ll La Roata pension. Golia monastery which was visit Baltatesti village – for its Distance: Gura Humorului - Vo- built in 16th century and beautiful local architecture. ronet: 5 kms. Day 6: Travel north on Day 8: ing machines) for washing country roads to the monas- Travel north, at the border clothes. Later in the day we’ll tery church at Arbore, which with Ukraine, to visit the spend time in the village of was founded in the 16th famous Putna monastery in Budesti, with its two wooden century by one of Stephen Putna village, built by the churches (17th & 18th centu- the Great’s generals and has Moldavian Prince Stephan the ry). Return to Hoteni for over- spectacular paintings made Great in 15th century. In the night accommodation. by Dragos Coman of Iasi. We’ll afternoon we’ll spend time in Distance: Hoteni-Sarbi-Budesti: head north to visit the black a village on the river 14 kms pottery at which with its traditional architec- uses ancient firing techniques ture. Return for overnight in Day 12: You might opt to produce a distinctive black Sucevita village. for a quiet day of painting and glaze. (Next door is a craft shop Distance: Putna-Sucevita: 50 drawing around our accom- selling tapestries and tradi- kms – about an hour’s driving modation or you might like tional embroidered clothing). time. to travel by steam train along We’ll continue to Sucevita the Vaser valley, which is village where green paint is Day 9: Leaving Buco- still is use by working people. much used. Overnight accom- vina we travel west through The train runs close to the modation at Casa cu Cerbi the Prislop pass (1416 metres), Ukrainian border and gives guesthouse, in Sucevita village. the classic passageway to the you the opportunity to admire https://www.facebook.com/ Maramures region. Our route a very wild spectacular land- casacucerbi/ takes us along the Iza valley scape (or sketch fellow travel- Distance: Gura Humorului – to visit the wooden church of lers!). Return to Hoteni village Arbore-Marginea-Sucevita: 60 Ieud, the Church on the Hill for overnight accommodation. kms – one hour travelling. built in 1364. Overnight at Distance: Hoteni-Viseul de Sus: Popica Farm in Hoteni village. 65 kms. Day 7: In the morning Sucevita-Hoteni : 260 kms – visit Sucevita Painted Mon- around 4 hours travelling time. Day 13: Drive south- astery – built in 1586 and by wards across Neteda Pass far the largest of the 'Painted Day 10: Today we’ll be (splendid views of the Cosau Monasteries'. The monastery is based around Breb village valley) to Surdesti village be- surrounded by thick defensive (beautifully described by fore continuing south to Cluj walls. It is known for the stun- William Blacker in his book Napoca. Rest of the day free in ning green hues of its paint- ‘Along the Enchanted Way’). Cluj. Overnight Cluj Napoca at ings, and for its 'Jacob's Ladder' You might enjoy the optional the 4 star Beyfin hotel. mural on the well-preserved 40 minute walk/4 kms from Distance: Hoteni – Cluj Napoca: north wall. From Sucevita Hoteni. Breb is considered to 195 kms-around 3 hours and a we drive over the pretty Ci- be one of the most beautiful half travelling time. umârna Pass, a spectacular villages in Romania, and is still road across the Obcinele Bu- contains the largest number of Day 14: covinene with its beautiful wooden houses in Maramures. Transfer to the airport in Cluj forested hills, to the fortified Hopefully we’ll have lunch Napoca for flight back home. Moldovita Painted Monastery, with a family in Breb. Return with its stout stone walls and to Hoteni for overnight accom- corner towers. modation. Return to Casa cu Cerbi guest- Distance: Hoteni-Breb: 4 kms. house for our second over- night. Day 11: Travel to Sirbi, a Distance: Sucevita-Moldovi- village noted for its wooden ta-Sucevita: 100 kms – around gates. Along the riverside there one hour and a half travelling. are several water-powered installations, all made of wood: valtori (villages’ simple wash-