NORTHERN & PORTUGAL BILBAO TO LISBON

OCTOBER 6-25, 2017 TOUR LEADER: DR JENI RYDE

Overview

Northern Spain feels like a country apart, and in many ways it has been. In this region the presence of the Moors, who influenced Spain for eight centuries, was significantly shorter and some regions, like , were never conquered at all. As a result, most of the cultural influences are Tour dates: October 6-25, 2017 Northern European and some of the finest and best preserved pre- Tour leader: Dr Jeni Ryde Romanesque, Romanesque and Gothic art and architecture can be found here. We see churches and monasteries inspired by the monks of Cluny Tour Price: $8,630 per person, twin share and influenced by the thousands of pilgrims who came south to walk the Camino Francés to , the final resting place of St Single Supplement: $1,950 for sole use of James, the ‘Moor Slayer’. Spain’s close neighbour, Portugal, a separate double room nation since the twelfth century, provides an interesting study in similarity and contrast. With a language very similar to that of Galicia but a rich Booking deposit: $500 per person culture that has influence from the Moors, the Age of Discovery and Imperial wealth, Lisbon provides us with a smorgasbord of art, architecture Recommended airline: Emirates and culture to finish our journey. Maximum places: 20 Our 19-day tour travels from East to West in Spain, roughly adhering to Itinerary: Bilbao (3 nights), Burgos (2 nights), the Pilgrim’s route: from the forward-thinking port city of Bilbao in the Leon (2 nights), (3 nights), Santiago (3 Basque country, to the inland cities of Burgos and León high on the plains nights), Porto (1 night), Lisbon (5 nights) of Castile. We cross the mountains outside picturesque Oviedo and travel on to the Atlantic via the green fields of Celtic Galicia, finishing our stay in Date published: September 26, 2016 Spain in the celebrated city of Santiago de Compostela, with its splendid Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture. From here we leave Galicia and journey south via the UNESCO world heritage listed city of Porto with its stately bridges and fine port wine, to Portugal’s fascinating and often overlooked capital, Lisbon.

Your tour leader

Dr Jeni Ryde is a former Senior Lecturer at the University of Western Sydney, where she completed her PhD focusing on the Renaissance, heritage tourism and museology. She has a wide-ranging knowledge of European history, art and architecture, and has travelled extensively through Spain. Jeni speaks fluent Italian and Spanish.

'Northern Spain is special for me not least because it is less travelled in these times of mass tourism. Highlights are luscious green landscapes, spectacular mountain ranges, dramatic architecture and Enquiries and outstanding art galleries. Add exceptional food and wine and an unhurried lifestyle to these gems and you have a perfect counterpoint to Spain’s bookings busier regions’

For further information and to 'Jeni led our Northern Spain tour in 2016 with exceptional reviews: secure a place on this tour “Jeni was a great tour leader, knowledgeable – very impressive please contact Hannah Spanish skills – energetic, enthusiastic. A fantastic asset to Academy Kleboe at Academy Travel on Travel.” Feedback from a tour participant, May 2016. 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email “A fabulous tour – great mix of culture, beautiful natural settings, [email protected]. wine and food. Great group of people, excellent tour leader.” Feedback au from a tour participant, May 2016.

Tour Highlights

In 1991 the Basque government commissioned Gehry to build a work to enliven Bilbao’s decrepit port area and the result was a gallery that has been celebrated by critics and the general public alike.

Santiago Calatrava’s extraordinary winery design with its Gaudí inspired roof and its superb mountain backdrop is the location of our first wine tasting.

The cities of Burgos, Leόn and Santiago de Compostela are vital staging points along the Camino Francés, or Pilgrim’s Way to the burial place of St James the ‘moor slayer’. Along the route we visit churches and cathedrals which sprang up along this ancient route and we even walk a section of the trail ourselves.

Three well preserved churches on the outskirts of Oviedo tell of over a millennia of worship. Set at the foot of the surrounding mountains, the countryside sets off their simplicity and austere design

Marvel at the beautiful tiles in Lisbon’s Tile Museum and railway station and the palaces of Sintra decorated with these exquisite azulejos dating from the fifteenth century.

Above: Monuments of Oviedo - our group enjoying San Miguel de Lillo and Santa María de Naranco all to themselves

High on a hillside behind Oviedo sit two remarkable 9th- some of the earliest use of barrel vaulting, the use of century churches: Santa María de Naranco and San Miguel columns rather than pillars, and the first revival of decorative de Lillo. Their age and setting against the Naranco mountain sculpture since Roman times. Some of the fine carving that are exceptional in themselves, but more extraordinary is the survives even dates back to the 7th century! fact that they showcase Asturias’ very own architectural style: the pre-Romanesque; a style that stretched from the The principal monuments of the pre-Romanesque in Asturias 7th to the 10th century and played a fundamental role in the date from the 9th century however, when King Ramiro I development of religious architecture on the Iberian moved the capital of Asturias to Oviedo. Santa María de peninsula at a time when it looked like Islam was taking Naranco was originally part of his palace complex and San over. Miguel de Lillo was built as a church. These two structures are perhaps the most emblematic of the monuments due to In 711 the Ummayad Arabs from Northern Africa had landed their good preservation and exquisite carvings, as well as in Spain and taken the former Visigothic capital of Toledo. their setting. San Miguel de Lillo is a tall, impressive Their territory spread quickly and by the end of the 8th structure with fine carving. When San Miguel was damaged century what had become the Emirate of Cordoba extended after floods, Santa María de Naranco became the royal over most of Spain. The mountainous regions of the north of place of worship – although its original secular use is Spain remained largely out of reach, however – and despite reflected in its different structure. It is clear this palace was the odds the flourished, built its own designed to impress and the carvings show a range of distinctive churches and palaces and kept the flag of influences, from Persia, Byzantium and Late Antiquity. Christianity flying on the peninsula. Nowadays the custodian opens the churches for a couple of The pre-Romanesque style started to evolve here in the 8th hours each day but then they rest in peace. Arriving early century and this evolution mirrored the slow reconquista, or morning on Mount Naranco and waiting for the mist to clear reconquering, of land from the Moors which started in the around Santa María de Naranco is a magical experience, as north of Spain and gradually spread south. The pre- are the views from here over Oviedo. Romanesque church is characterised by a basilical layout,

Detailed itinerary

Included meals are shown with the symbols B, L and D.

FRIDAY October 6 Bilbao Our tour starts in Bilbao today. We recommend taking the late afternoon flight from to Bilbao with Vueling airlines. After settling into our hotel just across from the Guggenheim, we meet for a welcome drink in hotel reception and have dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight Bilbao (D)

Saturday October 7 Guggenheim and casco viejo Today we explore the striking Guggenheim museum by Frank Gehry, only steps from our hotel. Mid-afternoon your tour leader will lead a walking tour along the Nervión river to the Casco Viejo (old heart of the city) via the famous Calatrava bridge. Overnight Bilbao (B)

Sunday October 8 San Sebastián This morning we visit Bilbao’s renowned Museum of Fine Arts before an excursion by coach to discover the beautiful resort town of San Sebastián. We sample some of the famed Above: Louise Bourgeois' Spider, Maman, stands greets visitors to the local tapas before doing exploring the centre on foot with a Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao; and the beautiful resort town of San local guide. Overnight Bilbao (B, Tapas) Sebastián

Below: wine barrels in the extraordinary Bodega Ysios winery MONDAY October 9 La Rioja - To Castilla-Leon Departing the Basque country, we head to the wine growing region of La Rioja. We stop for coffee in Laguardia, a medieval walled city perched on a rocky outcrop, before a visit to the contemporary architect Santiago Calatrava’s extraordinary Bodega Ysios winery. Lunch will be a typical bodega (winery) lunch at a smaller more intimate family owned vineyard. Overnight Burgos (B, L)

Tuesday October 10 Explore Burgos This morning we set off on foot to explore the centre of Burgos, a city at the heart of Spain’s history and a principle crossroad of the . We marvel at the world heritage Gothic cathedral, built on the pilgrim’s route and inspired by the cathedrals of Paris and Reims. In the afternoon we visit the Monastery of Las Huelgas, a Cistercian monastery with a fascinating history dating back to the twelfth century. Overnight Burgos. (B)

Wednesday October 11 pilgrim Route and roman mosaics Departing Burgos for Leόn we witness sections of the Camino from our coach, passing pilgrims with their iconic staffs and scallop shells tied to their packs. We pause at Frόmista to admire its eleventh century Romanesque church with fine carved capitals. Closer to León, we stop at the Roman Villa of Olmeda where we can view superb Roman mosaics; hidden for centuries under the rural landscape. This evening we have dinner at Los Delirios, an experimental and highly regarded local restaurant. Overnight Leόn (B, D) Thursday October 12 Explore Leon Today we enjoy a walking tour of the well preserved medieval centre of Leόn. Our first stop will be the glorious French-style Gothic cathedral with its fine carvings and huge rose windows. We also stop at the Pantheon of San Isodoro to relish some of the best preserved Romanesque murals in Spain. Overnight Leόn (B) Friday October 13 To Asturias Today we head over the mountains to the enchanting city of Oviedo. We explore the old town on foot, pausing to watch the peacocks roaming the Campo de San Francisco, and to delight in the well-tended parks and squares lined with Baroque palaces. We enjoy an early evening meal in the Bulevar de la Sidra, ‘cider boulevard’, a superb place to people watch and marvel at the waiters pouring this local speciality, in the traditional way – from a great height. Overnight Oviedo (B, D) SATURDAY October 14 The Picos de Europa For some of Spain’s finest mountain scenery we take a day trip to the dramatic Picos de Europa, one of Spain’s most visited National Parks. We take the spectacular drive up to the Lakes of Covodonga and enjoy a rustic lunch in a mountain refuge and a walk in the clear air. Overnight Oviedo (B, L) SUNDAY October 15 Relax in Oviedo The morning is set aside to survey the beautiful ninth century ‘pre-Romanesque’ architecture of the churches on the outskirts of Oviedo, many of which have been granted UNESCO world heritage. The afternoon is free to relax before we meet for a talk and an aperitif in the hotel. Overnight Oviedo (B) MONDAY October 16 Into galicia We leave the hotel early today to drive the last leg of the Camino route to Santiago de Compostela. En route we visit Castro de Viladonga, an excavated Celtic village over 1500 years old and stop for lunch in Lugo, the only city in the

Left: the Gothic Cathedral of Saint Mary in Burgos; a mural in the Pantheon of San Isodoro, Leόn; and the stunning Picos de Europa National Park world still surrounded by fully intact Roman walls. Tonight in Santiago we enjoy fine tapas at Abastos 2.0, a trendy extension of the local market which uses excellent regional produce. Overnight Santiago (B, D)

TUESDAY October 17 Santiago de Compostela Today we explore the beautiful urban area of Santiago de Compostela and witness the emotion of the pilgrims arriving at the cathedral after a journey of over 800 kilometres. In the afternoon there is the option of a leisurely walk along a pretty section of the Camino just outside Santiago. Overnight Santiago (B)

Wednesday October 18 The Atlantic coast On our last full day in Spain we take an excursion to the beautiful coastline of the Rias Baixas (low estuaries), an area highly renowned for its albariño wine and seafood. We enjoy a wine tasting at the stately home of Pazo de Rubianes, and a walk through their camellia gardens before a leisurely lunch at the excellent seafood restaurant D’Bertos. Overnight Santiago (B, L)

Thursday October 19 INTO PORTUGAL Departing Galicia, we head south into Portugal and stop at Porto for the night, a world heritage listed site and nicknamed the ‘City of Bridges’. We take a short cruise along the Douro River and stop for a port tasting at the prestigious Ferreira cellars. Overnight Porto (B, D)

Friday October 20 porto This morning we do a walking tour of the interior of Porto away from the river, stopping at the railway station with its Above: apostles on the Portico de la Gloria welcome pilgrims to their final vast tile mosaics and looking into the exquisite Lello destination; and the old town of Porto on the Douro River bookshop. Leaving in the early afternoon for Lisbon, we check into our hotel and eat in a nearby restaurant. Overnight Below: Belém Tower stands guard at the entrance to Lisbon Harbour Lisbon (B, D)

Saturday October 21 Belém This morning we pay homage to the Golden Age of Discovery and explore the bairro (borough) of Belém and the Jerónimos Monastery where seafarers came to pray before leaving or entering port. After free time for lunch we visit the Berardo Collection Museum housing an extraordinary collection of abstract, surrealist and pop art amassed by Portuguese billionaire, José Berardo. Overnight Lisbon (B)

Sunday October 22 Alfama After a talk in the hotel we set out to explore the Moorish bairro of Alfama. From the castle, we wander down through the labyrinthine streets of Alfama, one of the few areas spared in the earthquake of 1755. This afternoon we visit the Tile Museum to view its unique collection of decorative tiles (azulejos) dating from the 15th century. We finish the day with a performance of Fado, a Portuguese musical genre characterized by its mournful tunes and lyrics. Overnight Lisbon (B, D) Monday October 23 Sintra We travel outside of Lisbon by coach to Sintra, a combination of natural mountain beauty and fairytale palaces. We visit the Palacio de los Marqueses and the National Palace of Sintra. In contrast to the grandeur of the palaces is the Convent of the Capuchos: the Franciscan convent’s philosophy of austerity and poverty is shown by the architectural and decorative simplicity of the tiny cells carved out of the rock. Overnight Lisbon (B) Tuesday October 24 Lapa This morning we visit one of Europe’s great unsung treasure houses, the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, a fine private art collection featuring works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Monet, Van Dyke and Renoir. The afternoon is free before we gather for our farewell meal in a charming bistro. Overnight Lisbon (B, D) Wednesday October 25 Depart The tour concludes this morning after breakfast. Airport transfers are provided for anyone who has booked their Above: the iconic yellow trams of the Alfama, Lisbon; and a scene of Lisbon flights with Academy Travel. (B) Harbour from the unique collection of decorative azulejos in the Lisbon Tile Museum

Hotels Below: the fairytale Palace da Pena in Sintra Hotels have been selected principally for their central location and 4* rating.

 Bilbao, Hotel Mirό (2 nights) www.mirohotelbilbao.com/en/

 Burgos, Hotel NH Palacio de la Merced (2 nights) www.nh-hotels.com/hotel/

 Leόn, Hotel NH Plaza Mayor de Leόn (2 nights) www.nh-hoteles.es/hotel/nh-collection-leon-plaza-mayor

 Oviedo, Hotel Campoamor (3 nights) www.hotelcampoamoroviedo.com/

 Santiago, Hotel San Francisco Monumento (3 nights) www.sanfranciscohm.com/2015/

 Porto, Hotel Pestana Vintage (1 night) www.pestana.com/en/hotel/pestana-porto

 Lisbon, Bessahotel Liberdade (5 nights) www.lisbon.bessahotel.com/en-gb/hotel-liberdade.aspx

Tour Price Fitness Requirements

The tour price is $8,630 per person, twin share (land content of THIS tour only). The supplement for a single room is $1,950 per person. A non-refundable deposit of $500 per person is Grade Two required to secure a place on the tour. It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that Tour Inclusions you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness Included in the tour price required to participate on our tours, we have given them a star grading. Academy Travel’s tours tend to feature  19 nights’ accommodation in carefully selected four star extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater hotels fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider  All breakfasts, plus lunches and dinners as stated your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour.  Land travel by air-conditioned coach Extensive background notes and lectures on tour  Participation criteria for this tour  Services of a qualified and experienced tour leader throughout tour This Grade Two tour is designed for people who lead active  All entrance fees to sites mentioned on itinerary lives and can comfortably participate in up to five hours of  Qualified local guides where appropriate physical activity per day on most days, including longer  Tips for all services included in the itinerary walking tours, challenging archaeological sites, climbing stairs, embarking and disembarking trains and/or boats, and Not included a more demanding tour schedule with one night stops or  International air fares, taxes and surcharges (see below) several internal flights.  Travel insurance You should be able to:  Meals not mentioned in itinerary  keep up with the group at all times  Expenses of a personal nature  walk for 4-5 kilometres at a moderate pace with only short breaks Air travel OPTIONS  stand for a reasonable length of time in galleries and museums The tour price quoted is for land content only. International  tolerate uncomfortable climatic conditions such as cold, flights from Australia to Barcelona and the domestic flight to humidity and heat Bilbao at the start of the tour are not included in the price.  walk up and down slopes We suggest you fly Emirates into Barcelona and out of  negotiate steps and slopes on archaeological sites, Lisbon at the end. The leg from Barcelona to Bilbao is with which are often uneven and unstable Vueling Airlines. Please contact us for a full range of airfare  get on and off a large coach with steep stairs, train or options, with these or other airlines. Transfers between boat unassisted, possibly with luggage airport and hotel are included for all passengers booking  move your luggage a short distance if required their flights through Academy Travel. These may be group or individual transfers. A note for older travellers Enquiries & bookings If you are more than 80 years old, or have restricted mobility, it is highly likely that you will find this itinerary challenging. For further information and to secure a place on this tour You will have to miss several activities and will not get the please contact Hannah Kleboe at Academy Travel on full value of the tour. Your booking will not be accepted until 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email after you have contacted Academy Travel to discuss your [email protected] situation and the exact physical requirements of this tour. While we will do our best to reasonably accommodate the Weather on Tour physical needs of all group members, we reserve the right to refuse bookings if we feel that the requirements of the tour Temperatures are mild in Northern Spain in October, ranging are too demanding for you and/or if local conditions mean from lows of around 7 to maxima of 16-20 degrees – very we cannot reasonably accommodate your condition. agreeable for travel. Rainfall is high in this region but spread pretty evenly across the year. You should expect rain for several days of the tour, but not enough to interrupt the tour program. Lisbon is further south and will be warmer and sunnier with temperatures ranging from 14-24 degrees.