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TM SPECIAL BUMPER CHRISTMAS ISSUE EDITION 27 / Winter 2006 £2.95 To the top Contents find myself alone in the upper library, open and not in keeping with the care and Rogers has gone off to find more air attention-to-detail that is – or was – COVER Ifreshener for the dog, leaving me to emblematic of the Scotch industry. Lord Grist doesn’t do festive... tackle a new bottle of Caol Ila, unassisted. Could everyone check their capsules for NEWS p2 I failed on the removal of the tin capsule consumer aggravation please. Everything you need to know about what that protects us from the stopper below. Unfortunately this extraordinarily is going on – plus some bits we made up. Have you tried to remove one of these important issue has taken up the space I had things? Blazes! There is a small ‘v’ nick planned to use to compliment the industry’s EDITOR’S COLUMN p6 about the perforated circumference that the efforts to overcome the UK duty-stamp-thing An intriguing year reviewed. cap manufacturer must have told the bottler issue. Despite its increasingly evident crass makes removal easy – absolute tosh! My pointlessness, there must have been many THE WHISKY VIRGIN p7 nails, hardly manicured but adequate poor, big-eyed moles in Johnny Ray pops his whisky cherry! dark warehouses for most purposes, scratched CHRISTMAS TURKEYS p8 ineffectively, so I resorted to the re-working cases It’s what your industry has been waiting sommelier’s trick of hacking at it (and more cases) of for – welcome to the SWR awards. with a safety knife. whisky – hand- This is another example (like applying stickers, A. BARNARD IS UNWELL p9 Dysons or inflatable rubber what a job! And just in Authentoshan on a motorbike. dinghies) that a producer has time before the almost made right but placed Gangmasters Licensing FANTASY ISLAND p10 on the market before fixing Authority gets its teeth! In a new series, ace SWR reporter Caleb the pitfalls, leaving us lot to My fear that Bann goes undercover. identify the failures but producers would just DESERT ISLAND DISTILLERY p11 grumble about them. Like consign old stock to SWR talks to Mike Nicolson. fax rolls; the fax export seems generally to be machine is bleeping and unfounded and we are able LUST IN TRANSLATION p12 winking ‘out of paper’ while an all- to enjoy a continued stream The perils of tasting in a foreign tongue. important missive is nagging. The new fax of the wide variety of that make our roll is hermetically sealed but you manage passion so important to us all. There have SINGH FOR YOUR SUPPER p13 that, the machine starts ringing again, been many cock-ups and failures, inevitable Marcin Miller meets The Turbanator damnation! The buggers have stuck an in the face of such an inane, insane task, but adhesive circle on the paper edge, impossible the will is there. REVIEW to remove without your waiter’s friend. Well done! I Someone should tell them. SANTA CLAUS Lord Grist And why are shop assistants incapable of RUDOLPH Charles MacLean giving you your change the right way? Can’t PRANCER Dave Broom shops find half-a-minute to train their staff? DANCER Marcin Miller It’s coins in the palm then notes for the DASHER Jon Allen closed hand and thumb. DONNER Ian Buxton Back to the top: I’m assured many BLITZEN John Haydock capsules are fine, but there is a sizeable VIXEN Emma Harvey proportion that are particularly fiddly to

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ACROSPIRE The True Scot Scotch © ike every thrusting new business, and is buried at Melrose Abbey. there is historical precedent for using herb the SWR is imbued with the spirit Intrigued by this, I have been researching and vinegar toad powder in the production Lof enterprise, innovation and his early recipes for the production of spirit of usquebaugh, may I call the resulting diversification. We are, therefore, delighted and would very much like to explore the alcohol Scotch whisky? It strikes me that to announce the creation of a series of possibilities that these would constitute the there is greater historical weight behind this small-batch, hand-crafted whiskies which first examples of acqua vitae/usquebaugh than the use of casks from 20th century have been specifically distilled by production in Scotland, predating Friar Cor producers. cherry-picked experts to show the story of by some 300 years. As such, I would argue, whisky in liquid form. they show the original and true face of I await your reply with interest. The first offering from the SWR Cellar whisky and demonstrate the historical starts at the very beginning with The True precedent the SWA rightly insists upon. Kind regards Scot Scotch©. Always wishing to remain on The ‘True Scot Scotch’© I would like to the right side of the law, we have written to produce is taken from his Liber Luminis The Editor the SWA, outlining our intentions. Luminum (the term ‘transmutation’ being used to denote the process of ). A spokesman for the SWA has replied: Dear SWA, The significant passage is as follows: “Five I have been conducting research into the toads are shut up in a vessel and made to “While Michael Scot may have used works of the medieval alchemist Michael drink the juices of various herbs with toads to give his spirit some body, Scot (of the late 12th and early 13th vinegar as the first step in the preparation of consumers and toad lovers alike can be century) who I believe can be shown to be a marvellous powder for purposes of thankful that John Cor and other early the first Scottish distiller. He translated the transmutation”. whisky makers discovered how to make scientific works of Arabic scholars such as This, I believe, is the most practicable the most of their barley and that by the Rhazes and Geber, both of whom describe recipe, as some of the others call for “the use of cereals alone they created the the art of distillation. blood of a ruddy man” and “dust of moles” water of life.” There is a possibility that Scot himself both of which, I feel, which could give rise brought the art north of the border as he is to legal problems. Is that a “yes” then? I meant to have spent his last few years in My question is this. Since I can show that

Takeover Thai-me The ownership change will not, apparently, distiller, is suddenly very well placed. result in any job losses, but will give the Whether Glasgow has a similar appeal to here’s obviously something about Airdrie-based firm a significantly better Vijay Mallya is, as we go to press, unclear. downtown Airdrie which excites global network as InterBev (the export and As we reported in the last issue, Whyte & TThai businessmen as much as international division of ThaiBev) has Mackay has been in negotiation with Bangkok excites Ian MacLeod. Inver distribution hubs in Hong Kong, Singapore Mallya’s United Breweries. The talks now House, formerly owned by one Thai firm and New York. ThaiBev has already gone on appear to have stalled over the purchase (Pacific Spirits) now finds itself part of the record as saying it aims to become the price with Mallya wanting to pay no more Thai drinks giant InterBev. The purchase leading Asian international drinks company. than £400m, while Whyte & Mackay is also includes Best Spirits, Inver House’s With the Asian market for Scotch booming, holding out for £600m – claiming that the Hong Kong-based distributor. Inver House, for many years the forgotten Mallya’s valuation doesn’t cover stock. I Forger’s delight Craigellachie A tangled web t is extraordinary how lax security cutbacks? can be on some Real Malt websites. he tortured saga of the Craigellachie hich well-known (in their ITake, for example, a website brought to Hotel continues. Its previous owner dreams, Ed) whisky website has SWR’s attention the other day. On it, not Ttook one look at the Quaich Bar and Was its webmaster the landlady only can you download images of the many decided to impose severe cutbacks on the of a Dufftown B&B who, rumour has it, is and various expressions from the distillery, range and shaved close to 200 bottles from not paid a fee but has accepted a share of you can also access very high-resolution the list. In addition, all purchases are now future profits for her skilful repackaging of artwork files. being made through one supplier. Rumours various distillery press releases? Given that Surely the producer considered the that guests are being kept awake at night by profits were far from the order of the day at potential risk of counterfeiting. Perhaps it the sound of persistent and loud guffawing a closely-related magazine title, now was decided that no forger in his right mind from the Highlander Inn across the road are deceased, this offer must have been indeed would bother… I yet to be substantiated. I finely expressed. I

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NEWS AND REVIEWS

Moss & Hume) posits it was another name which, the SWR’s paper expert attests, would Glenavon calling for Cairngorm/Delnabo, but they place the be beyond the technology available to s we went to press the news arrived distillery in – which ain’t printers in the 1850s. Everything about this that a bottle of whisky claimed to be ! This leaves two possibilities. bottle points to the late 19th century. A“the oldest in the world” had been Glenavon was a brand bottled by the Smiths This is compounded when the bottle is sold for £15,000 at auction. The 14oz bottle from Cairngorm/Delnabo, or it was another examined. The SWR’s glass expert is apparently contains ‘Glenavon Special distillery, owned by someone else and about convinced that any whisky bottled in the Liqueur Whisky’ and, according to Bonhams which nothing is known. 1850s (and there were precious few) would the auctioneer, “is believed to have been According to Paul Pacult’s history of The have used recycled wine bottles. This is bottled at the Glenavon distillery in Speyside Glenlivet, the Delnabo distillery “began clearly machine-made and, therefore, can be sometime between 1851 and 1858.” working to supplement the volume of dated to the 1880s, which also rules out the Sadly, there appears to be a problem with Drumin-Glenlivet” the Smith’s other site. chances that this comes from a previously this exciting find. ‘Glenavon’, according to (i.e. not selling whisky under its own name). unknown distillery of the 1850s. Bonhams, was otherwise known as the In 1858, the Drumin distillery burnt down Is it a fake? There was a whisky (probably Delnabo distillery, which was founded in the and, at the same time, Cairngorm/Delnabo a blend) called Glenavon registered as a 1830s by a John Gordon who went bankrupt closed. It may even have closed in 1853. The trademark by J. Hopkins & Co (“distillers in 1849. The only reference to it as Glenavon Smiths then built at and blenders”) in 1882. There is also a label comes in 1851, by which time the distillery Minmore. dating from the late 19th century from a had been bought by George and John Gordon There is no evidence that G&J.G. Smith David Laird & Co, Glasgow. Smith (of Glenlivet fame) and renamed ever bottled any of its own whiskies during This bottle may be old, but was the whole Cairngorm. this period. This suggests that the whisky, if package as genuine as Bonhams made out? There is an issue here however. The a malt, would have to have come from the We have our doubts. Maybe the auctioneer SWR archivist confirms that while Smith’s own stock. The problem with this is should have had theirs as well – especially Cairngorm/Delnabo was near Tomintoul, (other than the fact that there is no record at since the SWR alerted Bonhams and the there is no indication where a Glenavon Glenlivet to back this up) is the label. It’s a Scottish press to our misgivings. No contact distillery was located. The sole mention (in rather natty black, white, red and gold affair was forthcoming. I Deluded numpties offer (part two) Deluded numpties o sooner had the stooshie over common practice among some independent (part three) Ardbeg 1965 settled down than bottlers. One, let’s call it Baldrick, managed NSWR received the following to bottle a puncheon of 1990 Clynelish as an ot to be outdone, our good release about a Highland Park single cask 11, 12 and (as a sherry finish) a 13-year-old. friends at the award-winning which was filled on Boxing Day 1967. The SWR heartily approves of this NBlackwood’s have found an Those crafty guys at Edrington have fantastically innovative way of selling an innovative way of getting ‘Shetland’ on decided to flout convention and split the identical whisky to the same people under their whisky despite not having yet built bottling. According to the release, half of the different guises and in homage has their distillery at Unst. (Ever noticed how cask has already been bottled (as a 38-year- accordingly launched its own scheme: The that’s just one letter away from a most old) and the other half will be bottled on Dec Dying Cask©. Every month for a year we appropriate anagram?) (ENOUGH! Ed) 26th 2006 (as a 39-year-old). This, and I will draw off and bottle a set amount from a 12 casks of what the Shetland News quote; “will give collectors a unique perfectly-matured, bespoke-crafted single describes as ‘Unst whisky’ are set to arrive opportunity to purchase bottles of two malt (of our choosing). there on 20th December. The casks are different ages from the same cask.” The Signing up to this scheme (which made of French oak and contain a vatted genius of this idea is that as long as the commits you to purchasing a minimum of whisky (obviously not made by whisky is bottled before midnight on one bottle from every release) will guarantee Blackwood’s). Christmas day 2006 it can qualify as a you a bottle of each drawing from the Dying According to CEO Caroline Whitfield, 38-year-old. As soon as the bell chimes then Cask©, which will build up into a fantastic they will be stored at 10 different locations it becomes 39! Same whisky, two ages. collection for you and your grandchildren to on Unst (one in every house one presumes) Needless to say, collectors of HP will be marvel over. Should you wish to taste the “while the buildings at [the proposed expected to buy both expressions. As for whisky (though we wouldn’t advise this, as distillery site] at Saxa Vord are being differences in taste? A maturation expert the value will diminish) you will notice that, converted.” The whisky will be ‘wintered’ said: “After 38 years there won’t be much amazingly, there is no difference in flavour on Unst and released next spring. Reading left in the cask anyway so taking half out from the first to the last bottling. Each between the lines, this means that the won’t make much difference to the flavour.” bottle will cost £300. Subscribers to the distillery will be up and running by then. Although this is the first time (to our SWR can get a complete set of 12 for a The motto of the Shetland News is knowledge) that a distiller has done this with discounted rate of £3,590, though there will “Great Is the Truth And It Will Prevail” one of its brands, it would appear to be be an added administrative charge of £15. I We concur. I

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NEWS AND REVIEWS Oh Canada he minuscule profits from our new and is building his second The SWR is glad that they have chosen bottlings will be put towards a third distillery in England’s Cumbria area. a site with the requisite salty sea air… so TSWR project; building a distillery Mr. Oddleifson, a director of the Comox integral to quality for their ‘concoction’ with other people’s money on the island of Valley’s economic development society and agrees that it is totally unfair that Tiree. We have been monitoring this and a former manager of a South African those nasty, obsessive, Scots won’t allow increasingly popular global pursuit and were estate winery, met the kilt-wearing Scotsman them to call it “Scotch”. They’ve probably drawn to a recent news piece, sent by one of in 2004. Plans for Shelter Point soon been turned sour because of the our Canadian correspondents. It comes from materialized. continually falling acid rain. Shame too The Globe and Mail and was written by Shelter Point’s annual whisky production that Mr Oddliefsen doesn’t even like Shannon Moneo: will not exceed 50,000 litres, which whisky, but hell, why should he when translates into roughly 65,000 750-millilitre there’s money to be made? bottles. Ten to 15 jobs will be created. Still, young Mr Currie should be able to Entrepreneur makes Scotch on In keeping with its exclusive, boutique feel, guide him towards a guaranteed fortune, the whisky will be sold on the premises the rocks of the Island even though the permanently kilted one and at specialty liquor stores for an isn’t the owner of Arran (apparently the estimated $80 a bottle – a cost similar to owners of that distillery are talking to high-end scotches. New distillery near Courtenay to their lawyers about that alleged claim). A special international blend will be ready produce continent's second He can always refer Mr Oddliefsen to his just in time for the 2010 Vancouver-Whistler other projects; the much-postponed single-malt whisky Winter Olympics, Mr. Oddleifson said. Ladybank, the unbuilt one in the Lakes, According to the Scotch Whisky oh and not forgetting the other unbuilt one Jay Oddleifson isn’t partial to a nightcap Association, Scottish friars began brewing in Barra. I of scotch. But one year from now, the single-malt whisky in the 15th century STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS 50-year-old Courtenay resident will be and... today, Scotland boasts more than It would appear that Messrs Currie and spending his days inhaling the heady aromas 100 licensed scotch distilleries. Oddliefsen will be pipped at the post. A of barley mash and yeast as North America’s Mr. Oddleifson is fully aware of the Scots’ local winemaker has got a licence to second single-malt whisky distillery swirls obsessive protection of their centuries-old distil and is aiming to be up and running into operation. drink. Nevertheless, he’ll soon be hop- by the end of this year (2006). Mr. Oddleifson, and his Scottish partner, scotching across the Atlantic to tour Sadly, he appears to have broken the Andrew Currie, will operate Shelter Point distilleries with Mr. Currie, seeking ideas for rules and done so with his own money. I Distillery, to be located on the former their Canuck-Scot operation.” I University of B.C. experimental farm, 20 kilometres north of Courtenay and a stone’s throw away from the Strait of Georgia. Christmas “You stand on the farm, and there’s your barley, there’s your water and there’s your cracker scotch,” said Mr. Oddleifson, who spent a elcome to Keepers’ decade at nearby Mount Washington Alpine Wives, a sensational Resort as CFO and resort development Wnew spot in your director. super, soaraway SWR. Keep Specially grown barley for the whisky will an eye out for those tasty be produced on the 700-hectare property, trophy wives at the now owned by local farmer Patrick Evans. A Keepers of the Quaich! mountain-fed aquifer will deliver Our Keeper crumpet for unadulterated water, and pristine, salty sea this issue is Kate air will bestow desirable characteristics on Patrick – phwoar! Kate the brew, destined to sit in Shelter Point’s beat off some stiff American oak casts for anywhere from the competition from South required minimum three years to 20 or more. America to be SWR’s “We’re going to be a small, artisanal favourite. No wonder distillery,” Mr. Oddleifson said. Fred is fiddling with Mr. Currie visited Comox Valley in 2004 his sporran. I after hearing through the barley-vine that the area was akin to rural Scotland before acid rain contaminated the once-virgin soil. In his mid-40s, Mr. Currie owns Scotland’s Isle of If you have anything for inclusion in these pages, please e-mail [email protected]

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Well, gossip and hearsay mostly . . .

Swede dreams are made of this Did you know?

hey love it, don’t they? The Swedes SWR has it on very good authority that he price of delivered malt is at an adore Scotch whisky so much that Scotland’s favourite Swede is involved unheard of £350 per tonne due to Tthe distillery-building business is financially in one of these, ahem, schemes. Ta genuine shortage of good thriving in Scandinavia. It’s a wonder Yes, it’s good to know that the £13,000 per quality barley. A long, hot summer has Andrew Currie hasn’t pitched up there yet. day he is still being paid by the done the industry no favours. Producers Maybe he has. Football Association is being put to good are being forced to use low yield varieties We all know about Mackmyra – nice touch use. Step forward Sven Göran-Eriksson. and it is estimated that two years or more the Mac bit, don’t you think? But there are at His haplessness, vacuous air and eye for of production capacity have been stripped least three – SWR has heard unsubstantiated the ladies suggest a glorious future as a from Scottish maltings. rumours of a fourth – more distilleries being whisky writer but, unlike his favourite With distillers stepping up production planned in Sweden. Soon the names former England captain, our Sven has never to cope with an anticipated increase in Gammelstilla, Gotland and Hven will be been one to shirk a challenge. demand (see Editor’s column page 6), tripping off the tongues of whisky Doubtless an overpaid and arrogant team prices are set to rise even further. enthusiasts the world over. will be assembled to run the project…I This is bad news for smaller producers as they don’t have the buying power of the big boys, some of whom, lest we forget, New manager at Catted malt have their own maltings... It might be time to recall the 1987 Edradour ccording to research at St Andrews, Concordat, the agreement all the distillers as reported by The Times, cats can on Islay came to in order to secure the dradour has appointed its third suffer from Alzheimer’s disease. future of Port Ellen’s maltings. manager in a year... a turnover A The disease manifests itself in cats in similar Ultimately, this is bad news for rate which puts it up there with E ways to human beings; they can get lost, the whisky consumer as, inevitably, Lagavulin. He is James McGown forget to eat and behave erratically. For this increased costs are passed all the way formerly the brewer at Springbank. breakthrough, we have to thank Danielle down the supply line with no-one willing James surprisingly pipped the favourites Gunn-Moore and her husband Frank who to sacrifice their margin. I for the job, Arthur Motley and Dominic began the study when their pet Tabby, Roskrow, both of whom it is believed Cardhu, fell ill. Perhaps might wish failed during the interview process. to sponsor further research into the link Caption comps Edradour’s former manager ‘Big’ between Cardhu and memory loss. I Willie MacDougall has moved down the road to Blair Atholl distillery. It’ll be interesting to see what happens when he and his former boss bump into each other at the bread counter of the Co-op. I Book launches

n the subject of modest Swedes, ust what is Ian Wisniewski saying SWR was well-represented at the to Ronnie Cox in the battle of Olaunch of Ulf Buxrud’s Rare Jthe bouffants? A prize is also offered Malts. Rare is about right. Although there for the best suggestion to accompany were plenty of copies of Ulf’s book at the the picture of James Cosmo and Mike event it was impossible to get one on the Keiller. I evening. Presumably if one had offered £30 one could have taken home a signed copy but, dear reader, the SWR abides by the ancient code the drinks writer; nunquam launch the publisher introduced the evening persolvo pro quisquam (never pay for and offered the new book to a press audience anything). Those of you who attended the at a discount on the evening – for cash! launch of the new SWR at Spar, Prince of As far as Rare Malts goes, it’s a very nice Wales Road, Norwich gratefully trousered book – well done Ulf – and I enjoyed my two your complimentary copy. Why is it any glasses of and respectable different for books? At a recent whisky book measure of Brora. I

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Editor’s column by Dave Broom

here was a real temptation (which came, if truth be told, in the form of Tan order from the self-appointed ‘publisher’) to follow my previous two rants about cheap and expensive whiskies by letting fly in this issue about the scandal of the mid-priced whiskies which are flooding the market. I can see his point. Can’t these people make up their minds? Either you commit yourself to the bargain basement or to the ludicrously over-inflated. Let’s have no more of this shilly-shallying about in the mid-market trying to give the consumer a great dram for a decent price. What kind of business model is that? But no. resolved (which it will be), if Russia starts to admit I dismissed it as an also-ran on the Instead, my thoughts turned back to the grow, if America really takes to single malt limited tasting of bottlings, but year just gone. Was this really, as Frank once then where is the whisky going to come from Billy Walker has shown a legion of cynics, sang, a very good year? It may seem strange to guarantee long-term growth? myself included, that there are remarkable to say this in the august pages of this scandal The industry may have sufficient stock to whiskies in those cellars. sheet, but it strikes me that it was. cope with a rise in blends, but the only way This puts me in mind of a question I was Sales of malt are growing globally, there in which this may happen is if some distillers posed last week: “Which distillery would you are even blends being drunk. I’m not long trim their malt portfolio. Yet can they afford close down?” It was a sly way of finding out back from a lengthy and sleepless trip to to? Emerging markets such as China may be which still I didn’t rate. It was also an absurd South Africa. Two weeks of whisky fairs? thirsty for blends, but everyone knows that if idea – who would close a distillery in the There ought to be a medal struck for that. whisky is to raise its premium image then it current climate? Jeez I’d even consider Still, it gave a hectic insight into what also needs a flourishing single malt business. buying Glen Scotia. (You always said you happens when a market suddenly switches on There is a tricky balancing act needed – were no businessman. Ed.) There are, to flavour – sales rising at over 50% year-on- especially since the old heads recall the over however, some whiskies which could be year, a place in the global top 10 and growth optimism of the late 70s... and what improved, not because they’re poorly in blends, American whiskey (well... Jack) happened to in China when the Far distilled – with the knowledge at the and Jameson. There is a real thirst for whisky East economy crashed. industry’s disposal no-one should be – and for whisky knowledge. It would appear that distillers are producing bad whisky – but because of the When you stir in the Chinese responding. Production levels are rising. quality of the wood. Even this issue is being phenomenon, the continuing Taiwanese Even Diageo appears to have finally got the resolved. The three big Glens are all showing boom, the very real revival in malt currently message and is re-opening plants which were the benefits of serious investment in wood a underway in Japan and the general buzz silent for long periods every year (though dozen or so years ago. about the same category in the US, you can part of the reason for that was less to do with The one little black cloud in this blue sky see why there appear to be some pretty balancing inventory and more with (hey... allow me one!) is the worry that pleased people about at the moment. manpower shortage thanks to the imposition upping production levels results in a further There is a genuine excitement about of one-man operations). Chivas has reopened loss of individuality. There has been a slow whisky in these new markets. It is only in the Allt-a-Bhainne – Braes cannot be far behind, stylistic drift over the past decade which has older ones, such as the UK, where weary – and its reluctance to sell Glendronach and resulted in a convergence of character among cynicism takes over, surely as the result of Imperial might be more to do with belatedly too many malts. Whisky, we should never peddling the same message to the same realising that they may be important forget, sells because of its individuality. people for too long and to no avail. Learning elements in their need to build up stocks. Despite that, it would appear that it’s not from these new markets might be one way to The same story is repeated across the hard to make money in the whisky business go – and let’s hear none of these excuses that industry. Both of ’s stillhouses at the moment – provided you have a brand the sole reason for their success is because of are working, Macallan is increasing capacity, and good distribution. That said, I wouldn’t the allure of the import. The continuing while smaller operations such as Bowmore like to be starting as an independent bottler growth in all of these markets is as a result of appear to have turned a corner after a few today. The big boys won’t sell liquid, the people liking the flavour of whisky, not just years of drift. Inver House, meanwhile, under stock of cult silent stills is running out. Stir in its image. You will not drink something on a its new owner, has gone from the distiller poor wood and there are as many misses as regular basis if you don’t appreciate its taste everyone forgot about into a new confident hits emerging from the IB sector. Only the – no matter how cool it may be. whisky maker. best will survive... those with stock, a clear The major question for distillers in 2007 is This confidence goes all the way through quality wood philosophy and, conceivably, a how to cope with this growth. If China takes to the independent distillers. For me, the distillery as well. off, if the Indian import duty question is revelation of the year has been BenRiach. I Have a guid new year! I

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Jonathan Ray is The whisky virgin Wine Editor of The Daily Telegraph

blush to tell you that I am a whisky At dinner that night whisky accompanied for it I can’t stay away. virgin. At least I was, for I have finally most of the courses, and things got A few weeks later and I was back in Ilost my cherry. It is still early days in our predictably fuzzy. But I do remember my Speyside visiting Gordon & Macphail. I relationship and we are taking it slowly, but I eureka moment: I swigged some 1973 spent an age in their treasure trove of a shop have succumbed at last to uisge beatha’s Glenrothes with my coffee and bingo! So soft in Elgin and then headed to their distillery, silky, seductive, flirtatious charms. And me and creamy was it, and so utterly bewitching Benromach. I tasted my way through the an old man of 46. that this, if nothing else, converted me to the whisky’s various beguiling expressions – the It was becoming a bit of a standing joke delights of . John and peppery and floral Traditional, the smooth, among my mates (and Scottish mother-in- Ronnie were thrilled at my reaction. “Aye, it’s mellow Organic, the cinnamony 22-year-old law), the way I would always turn up my a fine dram,” said John. “It’ll put some Ross Port Wood finish and (my favourite) the hooter at whatever glass of whisky was into your Cromarty all right.” toffeed and creamy 21-year-old Tokaji finish wafted under it. Thanks to the memory of The following morning I pitched up at – and then, rather unsteadily, drew off my cheap, back-of-the-school-bike-shed blends, Glenfiddich to be shown round by David own unique bottle of Benromach’s 2000 passed around in quarter bottles, I wouldn’t Mair, their chief guide. It was awfully early vintage straight from the cask. What a treat! go near it. They say you can never eat an to be talking whisky, but I soon got into the The trouble is that now I am no longer a oyster again after having been sick on one, swing of things, and after an in-depth tour whisky virgin, I have become a whisky tart. I and having once splattered my shoes in round the distillery, I was more than happy to even heard Kentucky’s siren call and off I violent fashion after a break-time slug of popped to visit Buffalo Trace – named 2005 supermarket Scotch, that, as far as I was Distiller of the Year by Whisky Magazine and concerned, was that. 2005 Distillery of the Year by Malt Advocate. As I grew older, I fell happily into the (These are, apparently, two other “whisky” embrace of both cognac and armagnac, even “magazines”, Ed.) rum, grappa and – my particular weakness – Uniquely among Kentucky distilleries, kummel, but as for Scotland’s pride and joy, Buffalo Trace was given special permission it was definitely Whisky a No No. to continue distillation ‘for medicinal I hadn’t reckoned, though, on the purposes’ during the daftness that was persistence of Ronnie Cox, director of The Prohibition. And there can surely be no Glenrothes. He badgered and cajoled me better medicine than its celebrated 10-year- about visiting Speyside until I could bear his old Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel Bourbon; whining no longer. And he had a point: after with warming, sweet, complex flavours of having visited and written about distilleries mint, toffee, molasses, vanilla and brown in France, Italy, Venezuela and Brazil, it was sugar it certainly puts Benylin Expectorant in daft that I had never been to a Scottish one. the shade. “No pressure,” said Ronnie, once I had It’s no surprise to learn that Buffalo Trace finally accepted his invitation. “We’ll show claims uniqueness. It tickles me how the you how whisky is made, lay on a bit of various adverts, brochures, pamphlets and tasting, and simply let nature take its course. PR releases try to highlight one eye- I think that you’ll be enjoyably surprised.” catching difference between them all. Back He even offered to take me to Glenfiddich in Scotland, Old Pulteney, for example, is afterwards for a compare ‘n’ contrast unique because it is “the most northerly exercise, which I thought was pretty distillery on the mainland,” The Glenlivet is magnanimous. I met Ronnie and distillery unique because it was “the first Highland manager, John Sutherland, at Glenrothes a distillery to be licensed to make Scotch few months ago. Under their expert tutelage sit by their roaring log fire and go through whisky”, Cardhu is unique because it was we went through the distillation process: we the card. We tried the light, fresh and fragrant “the only malt distillery pioneered by a chatted about ‘wort’, ‘wash’ and ‘low ’ 12-year-old Special Reserve, the honeyed woman,” Benromach is unique because it is and about the importance of water quality, 15-year-old Solera Reserve (my favourite), “the smallest working distillery in Speyside,” oak casks and dunnage warehouses. the smooth, creamy 18-year-old Ancient Glen Grant is unique because it is “the only We tasted Glenrothes straight from the Reserve, the spicy 21-year-old Gran Reserva distillery named after its owners,” Dallas still. It was fruity and lively, floral and (finished in rum casks) and finally, the Dhu is unique because it was “the last fragrant, and faintly reminiscent of pears and honeyed, chocolatey and sweet-edged distillery to be built in the nineteenth liquorice. John then led me gently through a Glenfiddich 30-year-old. They were century”. Glenfiddich is unique because it is tasting of their Select Reserve, the 1985 and fascinating, delicious and all so different. the best-selling malt whisky in the world the 1991 and I remember being astounded at Thanks to Ronnie Cox, during that day- (which really is something to crow about). how different they all were and how complex and-a-half in Speyside, I nosed, sampled and The point, surely, is that they’re all unique, and intricate their flavours. I never knew that – let’s be frank – knocked back more malt all special and all blooming delicious. Which whisky could be so apricotty, so citrussy and whisky than I had done in the previous 30 begs the question: why the hell did I leave it so downright tasty. years. Of course, now that I have got a taste so long? I

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Christmas turkeys

It’s the eagerly-anticipated, highly-prestigious, inaugural Oscars of the industry! Welcome to the Annual Scotch Whisky Review Awards – the John Cors… The Cors will be presented at the SWR annual dinner at the George Hotel, Inveraray. Tickets £1,000 excluding wine. Dave, did you ensure every advertiser won something?

The Most Literally Unique The Lloyds TSB Best Whisky Cocktail Press Release Trophy “Oh thanks, is that cheque sponsored by Buckfast for me?” World’s Best BIG Partnership: Whisky Award The Rusty Bus-Shelter “Highland Park is one of the 1 part Laphroaig, most remote Scotch malt distilleries 2.5 parts Buckfast, Bidding still open (hint) in the world” 1 teaspoon of chilli-oil, capers to garnish “Good but a bit bland.” Charles MacLean The Hyperbole Cup

Blackwood Distillers. “Worthy winners, The Fred Laing Memorial head and shoulders above the rest” Leather Harness for said the judges. Tasting Note of the Year

“Quite possibly the most coastal whisky The Dominic Roskrow Award I have ever nosed: it is as if the peat has for Diplomacy only been diluted by seawater. This smells of rotting distilleries and malt Andrew Symington kilns. It is unique and unquestionably the most evocative thing I have ever sniffed. I close my eyes and I am on Overpriced Award undiscovered Islay, before I ever wrote sponsored by SWR about the place; when I could wander Ardbeg 1965 OB around barely-known distilleries alone. No matter how it tastes, it cannot paint a picture so vividly, or bring back such Overhyped Award sponsored by a lost joy as the nose, or even a sense of Blackwood Distillers loss of how things used to be… I don't know if you believe this or not, but it Ardbeg 1965 OB has actually brought a lump to my throat and a slight moistened eye. I think I should pause before tasting.” Slater’s Menswear Award for Jim Murray Sartorial Elegance The Annual Turnbull Hutton Reverend Richard Paterson The Arthur Daley Chairman's Vote of Confidence Fairtrade Award Award

Annual Gong Damian Riley-Smith Glenmorangie management team (on behalf of LVMH) Jim McEwan The Jon, Mark and Robbo Award for Pushing Water Up Hill The “We own that? Are you The Paul Walsh Cardhu Pure Not Sponsored by Oddbins sure?” Award Malt Trophy for Innovation Chivas Bros for Jon and Mark Spice Tree Imperial and Glendronach

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Alfred Barnard is unwell as told to Jon Allen

To Auchentoshan by 100 horses

was invited by an entrepreneur who’d put Yoker closed down in 1927. (It seems the my eyes tightly shut, as he sped along on his up a large tent in the centre of Glasgow Patent “Ageing Apparatus” I was shown in BMW R1200 GS motorbike. But it was a Ito attend a gathering therein called the No. 7 warehouse – and wrote about – most efficacious, if not commodious, means Whisky Live! There, a constant stream of which applied the immense pressure of heat of arriving at the distillery. rather odd people with interesting clothes to new-make spirit and turned it into a How the place had changed. Last time the wanted to stand alongside me and have their mature whisky of three to five years old harvest was in full swing and the works all photographs taken as if they were members didn’t have quite the hoped-for impact on the but abandoned. In 2006, we received a of my family. For a while, I took a leaf out of industry. Yoker was only the fifth distillery I wonderful welcome and a private guided tour my new friend Michael Jackson’s textbook had visited and, thinking back, I have a by a young lady from Malaysia called Mehja. on handling such attention and struck a pose ghastly dream of a small group of workers I explained that I was there to right the wrong as if I were in a different photograph standing in a corner sniggering as I was I did with so few lines in my seminal text. altogether, slumping or looking in the diligently taking notes.) Mehja really knew her stuff and – this was opposite direction to the camera. This means Just as I was wondering if it was possible particularly wonderful – almost all the that when these people show the photo to to revisit Auchentoshan, a friend from equipment was labelled with details of the friends it will look as if they have capacities. I was in heaven. inserted themselves into the This Lowland malt is triple picture by modern electronic distilled these days which is means. Mr Jackson is an the one thing every drinker inspiration. knows. But there is But after a while, even this altogether so much more to simple prank was not enough to learn. dull the irritation I couldn’t help The distillery produces feeling and I simply had to get four times a week away. using 6.825 tonnes of When I was in the City on my bought in malted Grand Tour of the United barley. On-site malting Kingdom, certain distilleries got ceased in 1921. The mash the full A.B. treatment. I visited is prepared in a Porteus mill seven in Glasgow which featured for the 35,000 litre tun which as No.1 to No. 7 in my magnum takes 8 hours. 63.5 opus. To Port Dundas I devoted six degrees…(Alf, I’m warning pages; a full eight to its neighbour you. Ed.) Dundashill; two to Adelphi, four In 1918, the year of my each to Yoker and to Loch Katrine, supposed death, our country a page to Provanmill and just 13 was still at war with Germany. lines containing a mere 162 words I was astonished to discover to Auchentoshan. In fact, it is on my return that we went obvious re-reading what I wrote, through the whole process that I was treating the distillery as little more Kilmacolm – the redoubtable inventor, again. During that conflict, our airborne foe than a stopover on my way to Littlemill. engineer and yachtsman Captain Robertson – bombed Auchentoshan (a fact not mentioned But in Whisky Live’s big top, only kindly offered to chauffeur me there. He said by my informant in the Big Top!). One part Auchentoshan’s single malts were he had 100 horses waiting. I was intrigued of the housing destroyed has never been represented. When I asked what had and accepted the position of pillion. fully restored to its former glory, happened to the other distilleries, a helpful We made excellent time on a bright perhaps as a reminder of man’s folly. But the visitor overheard my question. He explained, September day, following signs for Port distillery is amongst the best maintained I in what I took to be a German accent, that Greenock and passing Glasgow Airport on have ever seen. Michael Jackson surmises it’s Port Dundas is making exclusively grain our right on the much improved highway that because of Japanese owners who cherish whisky. The site of Dundashill – when I was is the M8. At Junction 30 we took the slip their sites. Japan was allied to Germany, as there arguably the largest Pure Malt road to cross the Erskine Bridge, recently was Italy. Now, the major whisky collectors (apologies, single malt) distillery in Scotland freed of its punitive tolls. On to the A82 and in the world are, I’m told, Italians. Malt – is largely covered with housing. The the distillery hove into view. Following the whisky truly can bring the world together. Adelphi name lives on only as an dual carriageway... (Alf, That’s quite enough With that thought, we re-mounted our 100 independent bottler, the last of its buildings travel details – you’re not writing your book horses (that’s at 7,250 rpm). The 1170cc GS’s demolished in the 1970s. A school now now. Ed.) compression ratio is 11.0:1, and… (Alf, stop. stands where Provanmill once did. Loch To be honest, I didn’t see much on the It’s a motorbike, not a distillery. Ed.) I Katrine has disappeared leaving no trace and journey since I was clinging to the Captain,

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Desert island

distillery with Mike Nicolson

Where is your distillery? Kelty, Fife.

How near are you to the nearest pub/shop? You haven’t been to Kelty have you? A mix of wood? Is there a human resources What can you see from your Oh yes. department? window? Yes there will be a human resources No, you obviously haven’t or you would What about finishes? department but the distillery staff will be know that there ain’t too many windows in Funny you should mention that, I’ve been issued with a clove of garlic each and Kelty. having good feelings lately about lemon instructed to wear it at all times. sorbet. What can you smell when you What is the distillery pet? stick your nose out the window? What soundtrack will be played? An armadillo called Eric. I keep telling you, this is KELTY! Monday; Steely Dan (Well it’s Monday) Tuesday; Stax day (with a Sam & Dave Is there a visitor centre? Describe the set-up of your plant. hour from 10am until 11am) Of course there’s a Visitor Centre, The water will be special, magic, Scottish Wednesday; Vivaldi (filling day everybody’s got one, you really must keep up water, blessed by the water fairy. The malt Wednesday) darling. Naturally we will accept bus parties, will be brown and will have come from a Thursday; Mickey Jupp (with Switchboard where else are we going to get our maltings but will have been lovingly tended Susan every hour on the hour). intellectual stimulus, variety and by an entire family of malt pixies, dressed in Friday; we’ll have them whale noises you excitement? primary colours. get on relaxation tapes, just to set us up for The mash tun is gonna be square, USP - the weekend with half an hour of Kathy What’s for sale in the shop? see? Don't talk to me about marketing! Kirby, about lunch time, to help us keep a The product lines will be fairly restricted Ferment will be quick, look you missed two grasp on reality. and will focus, essentially, around the already! For a man who took two shots to get complete recorded works of Big Mama Jay, a O-level arithmetic, it is essential that there You can have anyone as your staff. selection of handy household ironmongery be four stills, so that I can count them on the Name them. and a small scale model of Sir Harry Lauder fingers of both hands. We’re gonna have Lots of them. with a wooden stake driven through his worms, on account of them being so easy to Mash House; Catherine Zeta Jones, heart. maintain but, they are gonna be pretty revo- Angelina Jolie, Halle Berry, Winona Ryder Visitors presenting empty glass slippers, lutionary ‘cause they will be anti-clockwise! (as long as she keeps her hands in her thermos flasks or buckets for that matter, will pockets). have them lovingly filled by distillery staff, So, will there be computers? Stillhouse; The Great Houdini, Angus with our 80-year-old, after which they will be Computers don’t bring pheasants to the McAffer, Proust (for the night shift chats), certified. No, wait a minute, I don’t think I back door, or wash cars, do they now? and Vlad the Impaler. wrote that down right. The warehouse squad will be five of the Who will be your preferred seven dwarfs led by Ian McArthur (for his Will you have a website? manufacturers? shy, retiring, submissive attitude). There will be no website, remember about The Acme Rubber Co., Fender, Lotus, BAT, Robert the Bruce will sweep the yard and all that stimulus we will be getting already. and Jimmy the Whizz. sign autographs. Uniform will be classic French waitress for Will the staff wear kilts? A balanced distillation? the wimmins and leopardskin leotards for the Yeah, you’re right, things could be worse, As balanced as its Manager. guys, you know, something tasteful. we could be Dutch.

Long or short conversation? Who is the postman/odd job man? Will you bring back dramming? Short, man. Jack Nicholson is gonna job share as he Yes, but only for the Manager. only rings twice and is pretty handy with an What’s the new make character? axe. Single malt or fillings? This will be a previously undefined You betcha, we are (confidentially) character that I have been working on for Are you independent / corporate? currently having discussions with Vick as some time now and whose current working This is no place to discuss my politics or well. (Bit of innovation there then.) descriptor is “Blindin’”. my weight.

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Age / strength Makay’s brother, he’s bad news after a couple Ages will be nine, 13, 231/2 and, of course, of sherbets. the aforementioned 80-year-old. Strength is yet to be decided as we currently await the Will you be your own brand results of our “let’s see what it does to a ambassador? penny in the glass” research. Regrettably no, I’m not qualified, I don’t know a single folk singer, I hate white shirts, Chill Filtered? Caramel adjusted? I look ridiculous in tartan, tweed gives Definitely! With perhaps a little extra (as a me a rash and then there’s my speech special treat) in our German consignments. impediment… The 80-year-old will not be colour adjusted it will be filtered, however, but only through a Would you let journalists in? piece of brown bread. (Traditional, ethnic’s Hell yes, if they make it over the razor good.) wire, past the dogs and through the minefield, they deserve a look round. There is Ad campaigns no bloody “h” in Nicolson, okay? The campaign will feature wimmins largely, as there are quite a lot of them you Will there be any additional know, and there ain’t nobody selling them facilities? fine malt whisky at the moment, other than to This is a hard one. Current thinking the bald ones with wings, apparently. surrounds a re-hab facility for people who would like to “do up” a house on Islay. The in a safe and secure environment, where they What’s the biggest market? proposed construction will be very suitable, can come to no harm. Sutherland, well to be more precise, a little well staffed, wheelchair friendly, lots of house near Melvich wherein resides a ghillie warm, Black Watch blankets, shuffleboard, And finally, what’s the name of of my aquaint, by the name of Makay. He’s a there’s even a little garden. The inhabitants your distillery? big, big, fan. Where wouldn’t it be sold? To could continue mumbling to themselves but, The distillery will be called Glenda. I

Martine Nouet, Whisky Magazine UK contributor and Lust in translation Whisky Magazine France Editor

t is rather challenging to be a woman in performed in a professional environment. tastings. So I went along with that concern a man’s world. Very stimulating but not At that moment, you wish you could of not inhaling and drinking too much Ialways easy. As a spirit writer, I meet disappear 10 feet underground (Shouldn’t alcohol in the numerous tastings our more men than women in France as well as that be 3m? Ed). That happened to me at whisky writer life offers us. Dropping in abroad. My work as a contributor for Whisky Live Glasgow in September. I that “People often ask me do you spit or do Whisky Magazine UK has led me to do attended the event as a visitor but could not you swallow?” more presentations in front of an English- resist my friend and colleague Dave The reaction in the audience was speaking audience. I feel quite comfortable Broom’s invitation to join him on the immediate. All these Glaswegians shaking with the language as well as with the podium for a Live Tasting in the way we with laughter, Dave with a large smile… people and the atmosphere. But using a conduct our magazine tastings. what was so funny? I found the reaction foreign language can make you feel a On the menu, the new releases. Dave pretty odd, thinking to myself Glaswegians stranger and even a strange person in some picked up a few bottles on the stands and are good-humoured lads, I am glad they circumstances. we both commented the tastings. Fine. are enjoying the tasting. We carried on I have accumulated quite a number Most of these I had never tasted before. So presenting the new releases. The smile did of embarrassing situations caused by it was a complete improvisation. Among not leave the faces. At the end, a few lads language misunderstandings or even the new releases, we had Glenmorangie came to me and thanked me for the good mistakes. A lost in translation moment as Speakeasy, a bottling only available at the moment they had spent. So I felt perfectly well as a blonde one! Like when inviting distillery. The only one I had experienced a happy. In the evening, Dave asked me with some friends on Islay for a whisky dinner, few hours before. I was not much a cheeky twinkle in the eye “Do you one friend asked what she could bring. I impressed, finding it pretty harsh. So I remember what you said this afternoon suggested “these little things we eat for whispered to Dave just before we started while we were tasting Spiteasy?” Oh, yes I apéritif ”. You mean nibbles, she said. Yes, I the tasting “I would rather call it replied and I repeated what I had told the replied, pleased to have learned a new ‘spiteasy’”. The bastard jumped on the audience. Then the penny dropped. I am word. When my friend appeared on the day, word and released it to the audience still blushing. By the way, I do spit though I cheerfully came with “Have you brought holding out the microphone to me. I felt I swallow a few drops of the stuff as it is your nipples?” “Yes but they are not for puzzled for a second, not knowing what to necessary to evaluate the finish and the you!” she retorted. reply. Then I thought it would be a good aftertaste. But this is worse when the boob is opportunity to explain how we conduct our What about you? I

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Fantasy island Caleb Bann

It is ever SWR’s sacred mission to uncover the innermost workings of the whisky industry, regardless of expense, inconvenience or personal danger. Our intrepid undercover reporter Caleb Bann was disguised as a cabin boy and smuggled aboard the luxury yacht Deadly Ernest to report on the orgiastic shenanigans of the infamous Marvellous Malts Island Cruise. Celebrity Love Island pales by comparison to the off-shore antics of industry leaders “confined” two to a bunk when they believe themselves far from a camera. It is time the sordid truth was exposed. But, like his fellow sailors, our mole was uncovered – then cast adrift in an open boat with only a portion of draff and a cupful of cask strength Glen Gloaming to sustain him. After days of exposure to the elements a violent tempest drove him far to the west of Scotland where he was cast up, rambling and incoherent (no change there, then. Ed) on an enchanted island. Strangely the islanders welcomed him and appointed one Prospero as his guide. A primitive distilling industry caught his attention. Now read on…

rospero took me to the Ladybrook build a separate Ladybrook annexe to ensure Sargasso Sea with the Duke of Distillery which generously allowed full stock coverage.” Johannesburg.” Pme unprecedented access to its Basing its marketing strategy on a However, this peatiness is nothing on the operations. washed-up copy of Vogue dropped from a provocatively named Oh God! Not More? As I am now becalmed on the island, with passing cruise ship the firm has taken its lead which features malt that was peated for a little prospect of rescue until the monthly from the fashion industry and plans a release year and a day, distilled by Ladybrook’s longboat to St Kilda, my first bulletin of Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter legendary Peat Master, Master Peter ‘Pete’ concerns the spectacular range of Ladybrook collections. Additional special bottlings will Peterson in peat-fired kilns and aged in casks bottlings which were unveiled at an be issued to commemorate significant events which had previously had peat fires lit inside all-expense spared event held in the public – such as, for example, the rising of the sun them. The bottles, dug from pre-historic peat bar of the island’s sole hostelry, The and high and low tide. bogs, are to contain a peat widget which Politician. Interestingly, this is named after a Chief amongst these is the brand new explodes when the cork is twisted off. shipwreck notorious in the island’s history TCP55, a recreation of a whisky which “Och it's peaty, very peaty,” said the for introducing the unsuspecting inhabitants never existed and already awarded Whishy elderly sage. “It reminds me of when…” to whisky, a spirit of which they were Magazine’s coveted award in the hotly- Sadly, space does not permit more of Angus’s previously delightfully innocent. contested “most over-priced single malt demented warbling, nor is there room to It is just as well that both of The probably ready for bottling (just)” category. discuss every one of these 37 remarkable Politician’s tables were bolted to the floor as In deference to my ‘Colossus of Whisky’ drams. However, a vatting of malts from Islay they were groaning under the accumulated status (surely “Colossal wanker”? Ed) I was and Ireland may already have been weight of the incredible number of bottlings. grudgingly permitted a thimbleful of this anticipated by the Slowly Sinking Whisky In a radical break with convention we were “ambrosial nectar” and concurred with the Company. told we could look but not taste, but don’t tell opinion of Ladybrook’s brand ambassador, “That's innovation for you!” the MD said the Scotch whisky industry, as this might Angus McSporran an 85-year-old seafarer puckishly. Also look out for what is claimed catch on! who scoured his ageing memories to recall to be the first wine finish from a Buckfast After an animated rendering of the the lost, semi-mythical inspiration behind cask, a malt aged in 200 different species of company song “No-one understands us, TCP55. oak and a revolutionary Irn Bru ‘evolution’. no-one loves us” the remarkably named A. “I recall the first time I had the 1929 Port As the “pièce de resistance” the distillery’s Spokesman addressed the expectant throng Ariel,” he croaked, almost inaudibly. “I was flagship Jumping The Shark was revealed. of three eager scribes: “We're breaking with drifting off Rockall with a raging thirst. The “We’ve taken our corporate strategy and the convention of the large monolithic giant only reason I drank it was because it was the bottled it,” said the MD. companies which have strangled the industry only thing available.” Trees must die for this stuff. Are there over the past 200 years,” he (or it might have “It was peaty, very peaty,” the ancient enough casks anywhere to maintain such a been she) said. mariner went on controversially, suggesting hectic pace? Find out next issue as Fearless “We intend to release every single barrel as that TCP55 has “the same peatiness right Caleb Bann, the man who cannot be silenced, a separate bottling, thus achieving saturation enough, right enough (sic). Och, it’s just as reports. I coverage of all the independent off-licences smooth as when I drank the milk straight in the entire world. Whisky bars will have to from a goat’s udders when I was adrift in the

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Sukhinder Singh Interviewed by Marcin Miller

Sukhinder Singh has one of the most impressive single malt whisky collections in the world as well as a highly-respected international spirits retail business.

Why did you start collecting? and sell it to them, to friends. They used to say “if something new comes out let us My parents used to collect miniatures. On know”, so I starting ordering by the case, family holidays we’d pick up a miniature here and by the two cases. Black Bowmore was and a miniature there. My parents had a shop the point at which passion overtook the and I was doing a lot of the ordering when I rational. I’ve got one of each of the Black expect from Macallan and people I know was young. My interest really grew from Bowmores in my collection. The second who’ve tried it are really upset. And these are these miniatures. I joined The Miniature edition. They only made about 2000 of each all the serious Macallan boys. They have Bottle Club and met some really interesting and I’ve got the bottles numbered 2000. I’ve said it’s not good enough. people – a lot of these guys take this thing probably got the best bottle numbers: I tend very, very seriously – so all I did was look, to go for weird things. I like the number eight When you buy a bottle do you just listen and learn. At the age of 18 I was (it’s a Chinese thing) and I might have buy the one? Or do you buy one to offered a collection of 8,000 miniatures – I number 88 or 888. Sometimes I’ll go for the drink? put in an offer and luckily got them. last number or the first number so I’ve got a Going through the collection there was mixture of things… I have two or three different collecting whisky, rum, liqueurs and cognac. I spoke to profiles. I collect old and rare stuff, stuff I friends in the club and said “look, this How many bottles in the collection like, certain distilleries where I have to have collection is all too much” and they now? pretty much everything from that distillery; suggested I only collect whisky. Springbank and Ardbeg for example. I guess But with about 3,000 whiskies it was still Honestly I haven’t counted but I think it’s Macallan because I’ve collected it from day too much. I thought it would be interesting to about 4,000 full bottles. I lost interest in one so have just about everything. It would specialise in single malts. I got rid of the rest miniatures after collecting full-size bottles be silly to stop now – although I was of the stuff over two years and just started especially when the manufacturers started tempted not to keep the 8-year-old. I also collecting malts. The more I learnt the more make miniatures for collectors – I thought specialise in Port Ellen. I believe I’ve got one interested I got. I was buying miniatures all that was really awful. of the largest collections in the world; over over the country and I was about the most 400 Port Ellens. There are two or three of us. active person then; 20 years ago every Aren’t companies doing that with But we’re in friendly competition – we help weekend I was up and down the country full-sized bottles too? each other, sell to each other, swap with each looking at collections of miniatures. I went to other so it’s not like a battle. My first buy a collection of 500 minis in Scotland and They certainly are so I am really choosy. collection whenever I find a whisky I can I remember it very well; there was a What I collect now is to do with the quality of drink again and again I always keep either beautiful bottle of malt sitting on his the whisky. Whereas before I might like the two or three bottles of that. I’ve always had mantelpiece. I asked what it was and he said look of a bottle or be attracted by bottles with an idea to open a bar in the future so that’s it was from the old Kirkliston distillery. I low numbers, today it’s just about what’s one of the reasons I keep two or three bottles thought “Wow, that’s interesting.” I tried to inside the bottle. My feeling is, being in the back of some of the finest whisky. persuade him to sell it to me and he business so long, whisky will only become a wouldn’t. So after one hour I got the bottle! collectors’ item if the whisky is outstanding. What’s your most treasured That was the start of my whisky collection – Simple as ABC. Back to basics. bottle? the big bottle collection; the first bottle I bought was from the1880s and it’s still one of Are there any recent releases The old stuff. Not the new 60-year-olds my favourites. I paid about £500 – a hell of a whose quality doesn’t match up to that are going for silly prices these days but lot of money then! the status as “collectable”? the old bottles from the turn of the last I decided I was going to collect one bottle century. I’ve got a big soft spot for the from each distillery and I would only collect I was very disappointed with Macallan; Kirkliston – my first ever bottle and old stuff pre-1950. Little by little I found I they have started a new series called probably one of my oldest bottles. I’ve got couldn’t get some distillery bottlings so I Seasonal Cask Selection and it’s only sold at some beautiful old bottles – for me it’s that built up relationships with Gordon & the distillery in the shop, one every quarter. challenge of getting that old bottle – I’ve got MacPhail. Neil Clapperton had just bought The summer one was an 8-year-old and I the challenge of the getting a couple at the Cadenhead and we became really good pals. didn’t like that whisky at all. But being moment and I’ll get them and then for me the I started speaking to other people who were Macallan, and a single cask bottling – 500 challenge is over and I’ll look for something collecting whisky and because my parents bottles – it’s a sort of “must have”. But I was else. I’ve got a beautiful old bottle of had a business I was able to order whisky very, very disappointed. It’s not what I’d Lagavulin from around 1890. The only other

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bottle of this I know belongs to Diageo and I Benriach is one of a few distilleries products is getting better but I don’t think was bidding against them on this bottle. that have changed hands recently. that they are what Springbank used to be. I Again, I’ve got old bottles from Talisker, know no distillery is what it used to be but I Macallan, Laphroaig, Tobermory and Andrew Symington’s doing some fantastic think Springbank is far off it. Craigellachie. stuff at Edradour. He’s done an amazing job with and I think their first release What is your favourite recently Which whisky companies impress is really, really good – proper farmyard released whisky? you at the moment? distillery whisky – really good stuff. Glengoyne Mashman’s Selection, some of Chivas principally. They have got Chivas the most amazing whiskies I’ve had in the as a deluxe blend, Ballantine’s as a premium last two years – absolutely fantastic – blend is way above Teacher’s and Bell’s. They sensible prices too, at around £100 a bottle. really care. The next big thing is Scapa; the Believe me, these two whiskies – wow! same company that’s doing Longmorn is now I think generally most people are doing a doing Scapa. So they’re going to do some- pretty good job. thing good with it. I’m surprised they’re not doing anything with Glendronach. It has As a retailer what gets your goat? been traditionally filled into sherry casks so I see it as a massive opportunity for taking on There are too many products on the market Macallan. I heard they’re opening and too many companies releasing too many Glendronach visitor centre; it will be totally products. I guess this is one of the reasons different to anything already in Scotland, that we’ve run out of space. All that says to us state of the art. I think it’s great that they’re is that we’ve got to be more careful, more doing it in a distillery that people know very selective about what we chose. I think little about. It’s a great malt so it’s good generally a whisky brand needs to have three they’re doing something with it. Great or four expressions, a balance of ages and company… In Aberlour they have THE most maybe one limited edition a year. underrated malt and in Longmorn a real Any more than that and you confuse the connoisseurs’ whisky. consumer. The consumer wants to learn but Diageo shows great leadership – the malts there’s a lot out there to learn. If there are 10 team are absolutely passionate. I think expressions from each distiller and there are maybe the only problem is that they have too 80 different distilleries that’s 800 plus many brands. So they try to prioritise and say products. Remember each company’s we’d better concentrate on this specific brand releasing two, three, even four products per and forget about other brands. It’s a shame year. It’s too much. Look at Morrison sometimes to see things like distilleries lost Bowmore; they are revamping their whole

but, saying that, it’s nice to see them doing Mackie’s Ancient Scotch from the Malt Mill Distillery range. The basic range is now going to be 12- something special with Glen Ord, Glen Elgin year-old, 18-year-old and 25-year-old and and Caol Ila which is doing really well. It’s one young and one aged limited edition per one of my favourite Islay whiskies; I think its I think Benromach’s new organic single year. I think that’s perfect because it gives being discovered still. My favourite is the 25 malt is excellent. you a year to sell it and have a bit of a break year old – I like it a lot. The small companies are doing well as are and get ready for the next one. I think that’s the big ones – my feeling is the ones in the the way ahead. Look at Arran, how many Who else is doing a good job out middle get lost and are having a tough time products? Bruichladdich? Way, way too there? The guys in the middle are either going to many products. be buying other people or be bought. Whyte It’s nice to see a lot of independent & Mackay is a classic example, as is Which Independents are doing a distillers, single family run small distilleries, Edrington but they’ve got two or three good job? e.g. Benriach. It’s nice to see these people amazing distilleries: Macallan is a beast on being in the industry a long time. They’ve its own and they are trying to take Highland Signatory is damned good. I think with identified certain distilleries out there with Park to the same level. Glenrothes is sort of independents it’s getting more difficult but something special. The previous distillers the same stable. Edrington should have you find good stuff, a few gems with never really showed the whisky off very well. grown; I don’t think they should’ve sold everyone. I like Douglas Laing – they’ve had They’ve bought the distilleries and are Bunnahabhain. I don’t understand it. It’s the some gems but some pretty awful whiskies, turning out some really amazing stuff. same with Whyte & Mackay – why did they sad to say. Cooper’s Choice have had some Benriach is a great example with some sell Bruichladdich? really amazing whiskies but do very little in fantastic stuff. Arran is doing some the UK. Everyone finds something good. interesting stuff though I wish they’d do less Are there any distillers you think and more whisky. We could see should be doing a better job? Have you had any mentors in some interesting things from Bladnoch but whisky? they’ve got a long way to go. I’d have to say Springbank – we know what Springbank is capable of… the standard of The usual suspects – when I was a wee lad

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I would have to say Jim McEwan made a big absolutely great. Why they had to change it to could give Macallan a run for their money, impression on me. He’s a fantastic guy in a 43% I don’t know. Glenfarclas could. In reality, you can find an very difficult situation at Bruichladdich. Also outstanding whisky from any distillery if you Richard Paterson. On distillery trips I speak Are you a fan of sherry casks? look back. The biggest challenge today for to the distillery managers – most of them are the connoisseur is to find the really friends – and ask them to introduce me to Sometimes whiskies are slightly outstanding whisky from a distillery that no some staff. So I meet stillmen, mash men, talk over-sherried but as long as they’re balanced one talks about. Glenlossie? Brora? I love with them, possibly go for a drink after work. they can work. If you look at tasting notes of Brora. Clynelish? That’s what it’s all about; it’s so cool to meet the top-notch journalists like Michael Of this year’s Special Releases from these people. Douglas Callander is a great Jackson, the whiskies that are highest rated Diageo, I was hoping for a bit more from the bloke; he is what you call a whisky man. are usually sherry wood. The first one he Lagavulin 30-year-old; it didn’t really do it Whisky is all about learning; I have been ever gave 99 or 100 points to was a for me. But the Talisker 30 was amazing. And doing it nearly 20 years and I meet people Springbank 1966 single sherry cask. Michael the Brora 30. The Port Ellen was a bit old. every day who say I must be an expert. No loves Macallan, real Macallan, not today’s Talisker is amazing – the first premium I’m still learning. release from Talisker, 25-years-old. Wow. Then the first 20-year-old, 62% sherry cask. Where do you stand on finishes? I’ve got an old bottling of Talisker from the 1940s… I don’t think they are a bad thing per se; the fact is that wood finishes have been done Does new Talisker taste like old for that last 100 years but no-one ever used Talisker? to put it on the label. Do it to improve or enhance the whisky. If you do that then it’s No it doesn’t. There’s something about old your secret. Why write about it? Why whisky; they’re so well-balanced that the advertise the fact on the label? I think it peat or the smoke hits you afterwards. should be the blender’s art. The master They’re delicate, flavoursome, complex but distiller’s secret. after that goes away the smoke hits you. Incredible – to die for. The person who likes Have you found any finishes that Talisker 10 today and is looking for that real appeal to you? power would possibly be a little disappointed. But someone who likes that Glenmorangie have done so many, of aged Talisker with a bit more complexity… course, some of them have to be good. You Talisker is one of the all-time greats and have to get it right sometimes – it’s a there is a sensible number of expressions. A statistical certainty. I think the Sauternes is really nice whisky in the Classic Malts is very good. We recommend it to a lot of hotels Cragganmore; you really need to take your and restaurants to pour with dessert instead time with it. I went to an eye-opening tasting of a sweet wine; we did very well with that and we had Cragganmore in deep Burgundy product. The other one which worked very glasses. We were told that because well was the Burgundy finish. They actually Cragganmore is such a complex whisky, a big released Glenmorangie Burgundy finish as a glass would help get these complexities The Ardbeg was made as a test product exclusively standard product because they saw how well for the US market opening out. It’s an excellent whisky as it’s it did. Port generally does well. I find it more got everything in it. interesting and challenging when the whisky has been fully matured in a certain type of Macallan. They released Gran Reserva and What is your desert island dram? cask. Yes, I know the flavours can mask the made a big song and dance about it but that’s house style of the distillery, but I think that is what Macallan used to taste like 10 years I don’t have a favourite whisky because what makes a special whisky. A unique ago. It was all first fill Oloroso. The thing when I try so much different stuff there are flavour, something which is not quite about sherry casks today is that when they just too many whiskies! But, if I had to chose, balanced is what makes great whisky. transport wood sherry casks they put sulphur it’d not be an obvious one like Ardbeg or Everything is in perfect harmony, beautifully into them and we lose that Christmas cake Macallan. It would have to be a Longmorn; balanced, that’s great. But what makes a fruitiness. I’m not sure which one, maybe the 25-year- fantastic whisky? An extremity of sherry or Another excellent whisky is Balblair. old centenary bottling. Yeah, an independent peat – an extreme within that balance. Glenfarclas is a fantastic whisky but those bottling of Longmorn. I When Glenmorangie started doing wood boys seriously need to spend a bit of money finishes, the first one they did was Port wood and they don’t realise it. They’re too old at 46.5% and, from what I remember, it was fashioned. I think they have the best finished in casks for a longer period – two ambassador in the world. George is a whisky years longer than they’d do now. The flavours man; he can drink anyone under the table. were very intense. The strength was higher to What else could you ask for? They’ve got bring those flavours across better. The first more aged stock than most distillers. I’ve just bottlings of Port at 46.8% and 46.5% were bought a 50-year-old Glenfarclas. If anyone

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Letters

Marcin, table for the few crumbs that fall from the literature, rather than leaving it to the likes plates of the big, in-between and small guys of myself and my esteemed fellow hacks. I’m surprised that you took offence at my (the size of the crumbs, by the way, are often After all, we’ve been doing it for years. That, mention of “self-publicising parasites in inverse proportions to the size of the Martian, is a disgrace and one that I hope you feeding on the twitching corpse of a dying guys). More pages means more pens, just will seek to rectify in the pages of your new dinosaur” in my last letter. Whilst the remark like more TV programmes mean more magazine. was indeed intended as a jibe at those production companies. And we all know No Marco, we’ve got to pull the plug on inferior pen-pushers who besmirch the good what happens to quality in the process. No – this before it gets out of hand, before all of us name of whisky writing it was certainly not I mean those shadowy gollum-like creatures have our livelihoods threatened by these directed personally at yourself for, as I’m of the night (unrecognisable but for their meddling amateurs, before people start sure you will agree, your pathetic efforts in briny lips and salty circumventions of taking them more seriously than us. And this field hardly merit mention, let alone reality) who inhabit a virtual world of whisky what better way than through the pages of insult. No Martin, I was more concerned with fact, fiction and fantasy (mostly the latter) your Scotch Whisky Reveille? Threadbare of those clubbable “make mine a quick that was barely dreamed of five years ago. content, feeble in imagination and positively weekend at the Craigellachie” chaps who Gone are the days when only those such devoid of talent in its contributors, I put it to seem to think that a few tasting notes (“sweet as I, the professional peddlers of improbable you that your only hope is to hand it over the herbal essences of thyme and marjoram make probability, ruled the metropolis of editorial reins to Haydock, and let it become me think that this Blair Atholl is a real misinformation that is ‘Scotch opinion the mouthpiece of the ne plus ultra of the winner”) and a distillery profile in Whisky forming’. Now opinions are held, and shared, world of Scotch whisky scribes. Magazine make them some sort of expert by anyone. There are, as the common and commentator. rather vulgar saying goes, ‘new kids on the I look forward to hearing from you, And it’s not as if life isn’t hard enough as block’, thanks to the so-called democratising it is for us industry elder statesmen, what of internet technology. And some of Yours aye, with the apparently irresistible rise of the them are even writing books, making it self-appointed whisky expert. And by this I appear that any simpleton can regurgitate a don’t mean the burgeoning number of mixture of poorly researched factual errors half-witted hacks who fight like hounds at a and inaccuracies and present it as whisky John D Haydock I

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