Herring Station, Tanera More Conservation Statement

November 2018

Simpson & Brown

Primary author HCT

Checked/approved JAL/NJU

Issue number 2

The Old Printworks, 77a Brunswick Street, Edinburgh, EH7 5HS | 70 Cowcross Street, London, EC1M 6EJ [email protected] | +44 (0)131 555 4678 www.simpsonandbrown.co.uk

1.0 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 1 1.1 Tanera More Herring Station 1 1.2 This conservation plan 2 2.0 INTRODUCTION 3 2.1 Objectives of this conservation plan 3 2.2 Location 3 2.3 Heritage Designations 3 2.4 Planning policy, national and local 9 2.5 Structure of the conservation plan 11 2.6 Adoption & Review 11 2.7 Other Studies 11 2.8 Limitations 11 2.9 Project Team 12 2.10 Acknowledgements 12 2.11 Abbreviations 12 3.0 HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT 13 3.1 Historic Phasing Drawings (Addyman Archaelogy) 13 3.2 Historical Background 19 3.3 The Herring Station at Tanera More 22 3.4 James Macdonald of Skeabost 28 3.5 Meyrick Bankes 29 3.6 Frank Fraser-Darling: ‘Island Farm’ 31 3.7 After Fraser-Darling 34 3.8 Historical Maps 34 3.9 Historical Photography 38 4.0 SETTING AND VIEWS ASSESSMENT 41 4.1 Introduction 41 4.2 Setting of the asset 42 4.3 Views towards the historic asset 42 5.0 ASSESSMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE 44 5.1 Introduction 44 5.2 Historical significance 45 5.3 Architectural, aesthetic and design significance 46 5.4 Social significance 47 5.5 Archaeological significance 48 5.6 Grading of individual elements by significance 49 6.0 CONSERVATION ISSUES 58 7.0 CONSERVATION RECOMMENDATIONS AND POLICIES 59 7.1 Introduction 59 7.2 Key principles to guide change 59 7.3 How the grading of significance guides change 60 7.4 Conservation theory and practice 64 7.5 Statutory and non-statutory constraints and buildings standards 66 7.6 Conservation and restoration 67 7.7 Designing for restoration 70

7.8 Interpretation 73 7.9 Archaeological recording & further research 73 7.10 Repair works and maintenance 74 8.0 APPENDIX – BIBLIOGRAPHY 76 8.1 Printed Works 76 8.2 Websites Consulted 77 9.0 APPENDIX – LISTED BUILDING ENTRY 78 10.0 APPENDIX – HES ‘ADVISORY STANDARDS OF CONSERVATION’ 81 11.0 APPENDIX – ILLUSTRATIONS AT A3 100

1.0 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 1.1 Tanera More Herring Station The Herring Station at Tigh an Quay, Tanera More is a purpose-built proto-industrial structure, constructed around 1784-7 for the curing of red herrings. The building, centered on NB 98988 07364, is sited by the shore of a sheltered bay, known as The Anchorage. Tanera More, known in Scottish Gaelic as Tannara Mòr, is the largest of the Summer Isles. The islands are located at the mouth of Loch Broom, in the north- west of Ross and Cromarty. The station consists of two ranges: that towards the north comprised accommodation for the manager of the complex, probably a brining tank, and a series of smokehouses; that towards the south consisted of storage and workshop areas and some limited accommodation or office space. The station is associated with a quay, two cottages, an enclosed area and a graveyard. The quay was partially rebuilt in the mid-20th century. The cottages are modern. The area enclosed extends to the north and the west of the station and, hence defines the immediate lowland of the bay before rising up in all directions, most steeply to the south-east. The graveyard is located in the northern part of the enclosed area. Broad phases of construction and use of the Herring Station were identified during archaeological surveys led by Catherine Dagg (2017); these were subsequently refined during further investigation and recording by Addyman Archaeology (2017- 18). The main ranges were built either at the same time or in quick succession in the late eighteenth century. A few ancillary buildings were added during the late-eighteenth and the early-nineteenth century. It seems that smoked herring production declined drastically or even stopped altogether by the mid-19th century, leading the buildings to cease being used for industrial purposes. The century following the end of herring curing in the Western Highlands saw the part of the abandoned station being adapted to extend the accommodation in the north range, but the remainder of the north and all of the south ranges were ruined following infestation by death watch beetle. The croft was finally abandoned in 1923. In 1938, Tigh an Quay and the remains of the herring station were bought by Frank Fraser Darling, who lived there with his family for some years. Sir Frank Fraser Darling (1903-1979) was an ornithologist, ecologist and conservationist. He and his family consolidated the remains of the station, while starting to convert the land to farming and animal husbandry. Their experiences are recorded in Fraser Darling’s book, Island Farm, published in 1943. The quay was consolidated and restored by the Fraser Darlings, but the remaining accommodation was dismantled as its woodwork was in a state of serious decay, leaving only a roofless shell. The buildings continued to deteriorate after the Fraser Darlings left the island, and are now in a state of advanced decay. The present owners propose to restore the building complex for leisure and holiday letting, as part of their wider plan to regenerate Tanera More by developing sustainable businesses on the island.

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1.2 This conservation plan This conservation plan begins with a section detailing the historical development of the building complex, followed by an assessment of views and setting. These sections establish a conservation baseline for the historic assets concerned. The information set out in these sections provides the basis for an assessment of cultural significance of the asset and its principal elements. The assessment follows international best practice, as recognised by Historic Environment Scotland, and sets out how and why the Herring Station complex embodies values that are important for our society today and in the future, in a broad cultural context. Following international best practice, this conservation plan uses a five-tier scale for assessing levels of cultural significance of the site and its principal elements. The value of the site is identified as ‘considerable’, meaning that the building overall is of national importance (Scotland). The individual elements within the complex contribute substantially to this level of significance, but have been found to have varied levels of significance, from ‘considerable’ to ‘negative’. The fabric remaining from the site’s use as a fishing station has been identified as ‘considerable’, requiring the highest level of effort and care in conservation, restoration and recording. Later elements dating from the period of reuse and adaptation have variously been identified as ‘moderate’ to ‘negative’, depending on the extent to which they provide evidence of the nineteenth-century use of the site for crofting purposes (which contributes positively to significance) or interfere with the integrity and legibility of the original fabric (which detracts from significance). More recent modifications and adaptations have been found to have uniformly ‘negative’ impacts on significance. On the basis of the assessment of significance, policies and options for the conservation, restoration and future use of the site have been identified. The main options are: • Option A: Consolidate the ruin to ensure its stability, ensuring its short-term preservation, enabling public access, and maintaining the integrity of the fabric as its currently exists at minimal cost, but with limited enhancement to the site and risk to long-term preservation due to lack of sustainable reuse and high potential future maintenance costs. • Option B: Partial restoration with consolidation of the remainder of the fabric, enabling potential long-term preservation and some enhancement of the asset at moderate cost, with potential for sustainable reuse that will generate income needed for future maintenance. • Option C: Full restoration of the complex, offering substantial opportunity for long-term preservation, high-quality contemporary design, and sustainable contemporary reuse, but with correspondingly high initial cost, design complexity and requirement for speculative reconstruction of lost elements. In order to implement any of these options appropriately, it will be necessary to follow the policies, methodologies and recommendations, based on internationally recognised best practice, that are set out in this report. The policies have been designed to protect, conserve or enhance the building’s cultural significance, and to manage future change in the short to medium term.

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2.0 INTRODUCTION 2.1 Objectives of this conservation plan This conservation plan has been commissioned by Summer Isles Enterprises Limited, owners of the Island of Tanera More. Its subject is the ruined eighteenth-century Herring Station and the associated Quay situated in the bay on the east side of the Island. Summer Isles Enterprises intends to rebuild the ruined Herring Station for use for residential and leisure use, as part of a broader project to bring sustainable economic development to the currently uninhabited island. The purpose of this conservation plan is to inform the plans for the site’s conservation, repair, redevelopment and reuse by bringing together historical knowledge of the Herring Station and its development. On the basis of this evidence it sets out and assesses the basis for the cultural, historical, social and aesthetic significance of the site, locally, regionally, nationally and internationally. The assessment of significance forms the foundation for a series of policies that will enable the site’s significance to be protected, conserved or enhanced wherever possible, and to minimise negative impacts where they are unavoidable. By enabling reliable judgements of the impacts of potential interventions to be made, the document is intended to support beneficial and sustainable reuse of the site. Its aim is not only to identify constraints on possible future actions, but also areas and features of lesser significance which offer greater potential for development or adaptation.

2.2 Location The herring station and quay are located near the shore of the bay known as the Anchorage on the east side of the island of Tanera More. The island is the largest of the Summer Isles, lying in the mouth of Loch Broom, off the north-west coast of Scotland. It falls within the jurisdiction of The Highland Council local authority.

2.3 Heritage Designations 2.3.1 Listed Buildings The ‘Tanera More, Fishing Station and Quay’ (LB7766) is the only listed building on the island of Tanera More, and it is listed in category B. The nearest other listed building is the ‘Achiltibuie Former Mill’ (LB7753), listed in category C and located 3.3km to the north-east, on the facing shore. There are intervisibilities between the two listed buildings, across the Badentarbat Bay.

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Figure 1 Site location

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They are listed because they are considered to have special architectural or historic interest, as set out in the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997.1 Listed buildings are provided with statutory protection through the planning system, to ensure that ‘special character and interest are taken into account where changes are proposed’.2 Historic Environment Scotland (HES) defines the different categories as follows:

Category A Buildings of national or international importance, either architectural or historic; or fine, little-altered examples of some particular period, style or building type. (about 8% of total listed buildings) Category B Buildings of regional or more than local importance; or major examples of some particular period, style or building type, which may have been altered (about 50% of total listed buildings) Category C Buildings of local importance; lesser examples of any period, style or building type, as originally constructed or moderately altered; and simple, traditional buildings that group well with other listed buildings. (about 42% of total listed buildings).3 The Scottish Planning Policy (SPP) states that ‘changes to a listed building should be managed to protect is special interest while enabling it to remain in active use’ and that ‘special regard must be given to preserving and enhancing the building, its setting and any features of special architectural or historic interest’.4 2.3.2 Scheduled Monuments The site is not recognised as a scheduled monument, nor is it located in the immediate vicinity of any scheduled monument. 2.3.3 Gardens and Designed Landscapes The site is not located within or in the immediate vicinity of a Garden and Designed Landscape.

1 Historic Environment Scotland, Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement: June 2016 (HES: 2016). para. 2.19 2 Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement: June 2016. para. 2.23 3 https://www.historicenvironment.scot/advice-and-support/listing-scheduling-and- designations/listed-buildings/what-is-listing/#categories-of-listed- building_tabhttps://www.historicenvironment.scot/advice-and-support/listing-scheduling- and-designations/listed-buildings/what-is-listing/#categories-of-listed-building_tab Based on Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement: June 2016. Note 2.17. Accessed November 2017 4 Scottish Ministers, Scottish planning policy (Scottish Government: 2014). para. 141

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2.3.4 Conservation Area The site is not located within or in the immediate vicinity of any conservation area. 2.3.5 Historic Battlefields The site is not located within or in the immediate vicinity of any historical battlefields. 2.3.6 World Heritage Sites The site is not located within or in the immediate vicinity of a World Heritage Site. 2.3.7 HER Historic Environment Records (HER) are general records of the historic environment. They cover buildings, monuments and sites but also landscapes, roads, ship wrecks or archaeological finds. The HER is sometimes called Sites and Monuments Records (SMR) and it is usually kept and maintained by local planning authorities. Designated heritage assets are almost always also recognised as HER sites; however, there are many non-designated heritage assets with HERs. Although such non- designated HERs do not have any formal statutory protection, they are the subject of planning and development control. The SPP, in paragraph 151 states that: There is also a range of non-designated historic assets and areas of historical interest, including historic landscapes, other gardens and designed landscapes, woodlands and routes such as drove roads which do not have statutory protection. These resources are, however, an important part of Scotland’s heritage and planning authorities should protect and preserve significant resources as far as possible, in situ wherever feasible.5 The HER for Tanera More is maintained by the Highland Council Historic Environment Team and is available through their website.6 There are 22 HER and 2 events on the whole island of Tanera More; they are listed in Table 1. The HER located in the immediate vicinity of the fishing station (c. 250m around the building) are indicated in green in the table. Table 1 (below) HER for Tanera More. HER within a 250m radius around the fishing station are shaded in green.

HER number Name Classification

MHG37687 Wreck, Possibly The Boston Stirling, Tanera Wreck More, Summer Isles

MHG28626 Cultivation Remains, Mol An Sgadain Cultivation Remains

MHG18286 Possible Township, An Lochanach, Tanera Township More

5 Scottish Ministers Scottish planning policy (Scottish Government: 2014). para. 151 6 https://her.highland.gov.uk/ Accessed September 2018

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MHG18285 Township, Garadheancal, Tanera More Township

MHG22795 Estate, Tanera Mhor Estate

MHG9121 Cemetery, Garadheancal Burial

MHG48449 Ossian: Tanera Mor, Summer Isles Wreck

MHG52159 Friends: Tanera Mor, Summer Isles, North Wreck Minch

MHG28627 Cultivation Remains, Mol Mor Cultivation Remains

MHG28625 Structure, Meal More, Tanera More Structure

MHG9120 Fishing Station, Tanera More Fishing Station; Storehouse

MHG44242 Quay, Tanera More Pier

MHG9119 Tigh An Quay Cemetery

MHG26139 Settlement, Tanera More Settlement

MHG28628 Cultivation Remains, Tanera More Cultivation Remains

MHG27993 Unknown Wreck: Tanera More, Loch Broom Wreck

MHG28624 Shieling Hut, Cnoc Glas, Tanera More Shieling Hut

MHG28622 Dam, Allt A' Mhuilinn, Tanera More Dam

MHG7326 Steatite Bowl, Tanera More Findspot

MHG28623 Structure, Caolas Eilean Na Saille, Tanera Structure More

MHG28620 Watermill, Loch Ard, Tanera More Watermill

MHG11415 Ardnagoine Burial

EHG298 Tenera More Burial Ground Field observation (visual assessment)

EHG202 DBA and Walkover survey - Tanera More, Desk based Forestry Survey assessment, walkover survey

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Figure 2 Listed buildings and HER. This map does not indicate HERs outside of Tanera More.

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2.4 Planning policy, national and local 2.4.1 Scottish Planning Policy 2014 (SPP) The Scottish Planning Policy (2014) sets out national planning policies which reflect Scottish Ministers’ priorities for the operation of the planning system and for the development and use of land. The SPP promotes consistency in the application of policy across Scotland whilst allowing sufficient flexibility to reflect local circumstances.7 It includes an explicit recognition of the need for informed conservation, to understand the significance of historic sites and the potential impacts that any proposed development might have. It also emphasises the need to ‘enable positive change in the historic environment’ based on well-informed understanding.8 This document has been prepared in accordance with the following policies: • General policies relating to the historic environment (policy numbers 135, 136 & 137) • Listed buildings (141 & 142) • Archaeology and Other Historic Environment Assets (150 & 151) 2.4.2 Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement: June 2016 This policy statement by HES, along with their Managing Change in the Historic Environment guidance note series, are the documents to which local planning authorities are directed in consideration of applications affecting historic environment assets in their jurisdiction. The protection and enhancement of the historic environment is its fundamental basis.9 However, there is also a clear emphasis on enabling change that is sustainable.10 2.4.3 Local planning policy: Highland Wide Local Development Plan (April 2012) The Highland Wide Local Development Plan was adopted in 2012 and sets out policies regarding development in the Highland. Section 21.1 Natural, Built and Cultural Heritage of this development plan ‘sets out the tests against which all development which affects natural, cultural and built heritage features must be assessed.’11 Policy 57 Natural, Built and Cultural Heritage comments: All development proposals will be assessed taking into account the level of importance and type of heritage features, the form and scale of the development, and any impact

7 See http://www.gov.scot/Publications/2014/06/5823 accessed December 2015 8 Scottish Ministers Scottish planning policy (Scottish Government: 2014). p.33 9 Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement (2016). para. 1.8 10 Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement paras. 1.3-1.5 11 The Highland Council Highland Wide Local Development Plan (April 2012)

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on the feature and its setting, in the context of the policy framework detailed in Appendix 2.12 The following criteria will also apply: 1. For features of local/regional importance we will allow developments if it can be satisfactorily demonstrated that they will not have an unacceptable impact on the natural environment, amenity and heritage resource … Note: Whilst Appendix 2 groups features under the headings international, national and local/regional importance, this does not suggest that the relevant policy framework will be any less rigorously applied. … In due course the Council also intends to adopt the Supplementary Guidance on the Highland Historic Environment Strategy.13 2.4.4 Local planning guidance: Highland Historic Environment Strategy (January 2013) The Highland Historic Environment Strategy has been prepared to ensure that the historic environment is taken into account during the design of future developments and to set a consistent approach to the protection of the historic environment.14 Regarding Listed Buildings, it comments That listed buildings within Highland are protected from harmful developments, including extension and alteration, which may affect their special architectural and historic interest or their setting and that there is a presumption against the demolition of listed buildings. Regarding archaeological sites and landscapes, it comments that: Over 95% of Highland’s historic environment is not designated. This includes many thousands of archaeological sites, monuments and landscapes including prehistoric, industrial and military remains, unlisted historic buildings, marine sites and designed landscapes and battlefield sites not included in the Inventories. The contribution these sites make to Highland’s landscapes, aesthetically, historically and culturally cannot be underestimated. The aim is: To ensure that the importance of non-designated archaeological sites and landscapes and their settings are understood and wherever possible are protected from harmful developments. and

12 B Listed Buildings and Sites and Monuments Record Archaeological Sites are considered in this document to be of local/regional importance. 13 The Highland Council Highland Wide Local Development Plan. April 2012. p.111 14https://www.highland.gov.uk/directory_record/712042/historic_environment_strategy/c ategory/473/conservation Accessed May 2018

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To ensure no asset or its setting is lost or altered without adequate consideration of its significance and of the means available to preserve, record and interpret it in line with national and local policy and Highland Council’s Standards for Archaeological Work.

2.5 Structure of the conservation plan This conservation plan follows the guidelines set out in the Heritage Lottery Fund’s Conservation Plan Guidance (2012); Historic Environment Scotland’s Conservation Management Plans: A Guide to the Preparation of Conservation Management Plans (2000); The Conservation Management Plan 7th Ed. (The National Trust of Australia, 2013) by James Semple Kerr; and The Illustrated Burra Charter: Good Practice for Heritage Places (Australia ICOMOS, 2004) by M Walker and P Marquis-Kyle. Reference is also made to the British Standard BS 7913 – Guide to the Conservation of Historic Buildings (2013). It also takes account of Historic Environment Scotland’s Managing change in the historic environment: setting (2010).

2.6 Adoption & Review This conservation plan is to be used by the owner, stakeholders, consultants and by future users of Tanera More to aid the appropriate management of the historic asset.

2.7 Other Studies Archaeological surveys and research have been undertaken. Reports focusing solely on Tanera More are listed below: Addyman Archaeology Tanera Mor, Summer Isles, Achiltibuie, Highland. Herring station and graveyard - Historic Building Survey : December 2017 for Summer Isles Enterprises Ltd. February 2018 Dagg, C. 2017. Tanera Mor Curing Station. Unpublished report. North of Scotland Archaeological Society 2007. Report (incomplete) of an Archaeological Survey of the Island of Tanera Mor by members of NOSAS – Saturday, 20th October 2007. Unpublished report, available from http://s3.spanglefish.com/s/12654/documents/site%20records/tanera-2007-report- final.pdf (Accessed 21/12/2017)

2.8 Limitations The Herring Station site has been the subject of three archaeological investigations: an initial investigation in 2007 undertaken by the North of Scotland Archaeological Society led by Meryl Marshall; an independent investigation in 2017 by Catherine Dagg; and a further detailed survey by Addyman Archaeology in 2017. As yet, however, archaeological investigation remains partial. Considerable investigation of archival sources has been undertaken by Catherine Dagg, but it is possible that further archival and published primary source material remains to be discovered. As a result, it is possible that further information will become available after the completion of this report. Any new information should be acknowledged and incorporated into future revisions of the conservation plan. This conservation plan has not been reviewed with reference to Building Standards.

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2.9 Project Team The study team from Simpson & Brown comprised James Legard (heritage consultant), Nicholas Uglow (associate, heritage consultant) and Laure Emery (heritage consultant), supported by the archaeology team (Addyman Archaeology).

2.10 Acknowledgements Except where marked, images are copyright Simpson & Brown. There has been due diligence search on other copyrighted images. This report contains licensed images from National Record of the Historic Environment. To view these images online, please consult the Canmore database. This report contains maps reproduced under licence by permission of the Trustees of the National Library of Scotland (NLS). The Roy Military Survey appears courtesy of the British Library Board (BL). To view these maps online, see http://www.nls.uk/. 2.11 Abbreviations HER – Historic Environment Record OS – Ordnance Survey HES – Historic Environment Scotland S&B – Simpson & Brown LPA – Local planning authority SPP – Scottish Planning Policy (Highland Council)

NLS – National Library of Scotland

Different spellings are accepted for Tanera More, the more common being Tanera More, Tanera Mòr or Tannara Mòr (Scottish Gaelic). In this report, the spelling of Tanera More, used in the listed building entry, has been kept. In quotations of text from other sources, original spellings are retained and not marked.

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3.0 HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT 3.1 Historic Phasing Drawings (Addyman Archaelogy)

Figure 3 Plan of Tanera More Herring Station showing historical phasing.

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Figure 4 Elevations of Tanera More Herring Station, walls at north-east and south- west of principal ranges, and surviving run of wall from the south side of the northern ancillarybuilding, showing historical phasing.

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Figure 5 Interior elevations of the north wall of the north range, east wall, and west wall of the north range, Tanera More Herring Station showing historical phasing.

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Figure 6 Interior and exterior elevations of south wall of north range of Tanera More Herring Station showing historical phasing.

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Figure 7 Elevations of exterior of north wall and internal face of south walls of accommodation area, northern ancillary building, and interstitial infill of Tanera More Herring Station showing historical phasing.

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Figure 8 Elevations of interior and exterior faces of south wall of south range of Tanera More Herring Station showing historical phasing.

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3.2 Historical Background 3.2.1 The origins of the European herring trade The origins of the Tanera More Herring Station are rooted in the broader story of the European herring fishery. In pre-modern Europe, the diet of the mass of the population was dominated by cereals, a reality testified to by the traditional saying that ‘bread is the staff of life’. There was consequently a high premium on alternative food sources that would provide protein and fat. Fish and other seafood were one of the most important means of fulfilling this demand, as they could be obtained in relatively large quantities with relatively small expenditure of labour and material resources, albeit at times with considerable risk to life and health. Seafood consequently always formed an important component of the diet of Europeans living near coastlines and major rivers. Even here, though, the limited capacity of early nets and lines, and the challenges of the weather, especially in winter, imposed significant constraints on supply. Such limitations were even more severe inland, where the costs of transporting a highly perishable commodity in an era before mechanical refrigeration were insuperable for all but the wealthiest consumers. The curing of fish was therefore the primary means by which seafood could be made available to a wider market, and in Europe, as elsewhere, drying, smoking, salting and pickling were used from an early date. The key to exploiting the potential demand for seafood therefore lay with more efficient fishing methods and more effective methods of preservation. Improvements to these technologies were constantly sought and potentially revolutionary in their implications. This is nowhere seen more clearly than in the development of the European herring fisheries. Herring had many desirable traits as a food source: it was abundant in the cold waters around northern Europe; because it lives in vast shoals, once found it can caught in large quantities; it is relatively small and so easily cured; and it has a high fat content, increasing its caloric value while providing an important source of essential lipids. Herring was consequently a basic foodstuff along the northern European coast, and a highly valued source of culinary variety for consumers further from the sea but prosperous enough to purchase cured varieties. This was especially the case in Catholic Europe, where the traditional prohibition on the consumption of meat on Fridays created a strong market for fish as an alternative source of dietary protein. The herring fishery was therefore of fundamental importance, nutritionally, economically and, because of this, politically, in pre-modern Europe.

3.2.2 The Baltic Fishery and the Hanseatic League The organised herring fishery had its origins in the Baltic, which for much of the medieval period was one of the main spawning grounds for the fish. The herring fishery was a critical factor in the emergence of the Hanseatic League. The city of Lübeck had ready access to the herring grounds and Hamburg to the salt for curing. Their alliance enabled them to dominate the market for salt fish, and they became the core of an expanding alliance of German mercantile cities on the Baltic coast. Equally, when herring ceased to spawn in the Baltic over the course of the 14th and 15th centuries, the Hansa were deprived of a valuable commodity over which they had

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 19 maintained a virtual monopoly, a shock that began a steady decline in their economic and political power.

3.2.3 The rise of the Dutch herring fishery The eclipse of the Hansa was exacerbated by the contemporaneous rise of the Dutch herring fishery, which moved in to exploit the new spawning grounds in the North Sea. The rise to dominance of the Dutch was greatly speeded by the development of ‘gibbing’, traditionally attributed to the 14th century Dutch fisherman Willem Beukelszoon. Gibbing involved removing the gills and part of the gut of the herring, after which it was possible to preserve it by simply sprinkling the fish with salt and packing them head-to-tail in barrels. The moisture in the fish would be drawn out by the salt, meaning that the barrels, when opened, were tightly packed with perfectly cured fish in brine. This form of cured herring is known as ‘white herring’. This method of curing had a number of important advantages. The resulting preserved fish was not only stable and easily transported, but was untainted by the bitterness associated with traditional salt-cured whole herring. Even more crucially, because gibbing eliminated the need for lengthy brining (immersion in vats of salt water), the fish could be cured on board. Thus fishing boats could put out to sea with cargoes of empty barrels and curing salt, and, because they no longer needed to return to port to unload each catch, could continue fishing and preserving the fish until their supplies were exhausted. Moreover, the profits of the fishery no longer had to be shared with the merchants who had previously salted all the fish on land. The increased profits, and the resulting commercialisation of the herring fishery, provided the Dutch with the means and motivation to replace traditional small fishing vessels with the large cargo ship of the Mediterranean, known as the buzza, buccia or bucius. This was further developed until it became the specialised herring ‘buis’ (translated into English as ‘buss’). This new larger fishing vessel made it possible for the Dutch fishermen to follow the herring shoals for long periods. The huge increases in efficiency that resulted, along with their access to high quality salt from the Atlantic coast, enabled the Dutch to dominate the now highly profitable European herring trade. Dutch white herrings were exported as a delicacy throughout Europe, from the most distant shores of the Baltic to the far reaches of the Mediterranean. The success of the Dutch herring fishery was so great that it fed directly into ever-increasing Dutch dominance over the whole of the European mercantile system over the course of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.

3.2.4 The herring fisheries in the British Isles The British Isles had a well-established herring industry of its own, with its own distinct speciality quite different from the ‘white herring’ produced by the Dutch process. This was ‘red herring’, a form of whole, ungutted, brined and heavily smoked herring, so called because of the deep mahogany colour that resulted from prolonged curing process. The resulting fish had a correspondingly strong flavour and excellent keeping qualities. The British industry was initially based in the Norfolk fishing port of Great Yarmouth, and there were major export markets for red herring in the Mediterranean by the sixteenth century.

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Nevertheless, the dominant position of the Dutch herring fishery was a source of astonishment and envy across Europe and, especially, in the British Isles. British strength in merchant shipping was not matched by corresponding dominance of the fisheries that bordered Britain’s extensive coastline. From at least the late seventeenth century onwards, there were repeated exhortations and attempts to expand British fisheries, with special concern focused on the herring fishery, and these rhetorical and practical efforts were frequently backed by government action. These concerns became swept into the more general concern with ‘improvement’ over the course of the eighteenth century. It seems clear that the improvers’ basic ambition was to replicate the highly capitalised model used by the Dutch, in which the cost of equipping a large boat was shared between a group of investors. The floating factories would then be able to rival the Dutch in the production of high-quality white herring for export. The most significant measure was the introduction of a bounty in 1757 for large fishing boats, which led to an increase in the numbers of British herring busses. This was backed up by the White Herring Fisheries Act (1771), which was intended to provide fishermen with a series of rights that would make it easier to fish without artificial restrictions. Specifically it gave fishermen the right to use the foreshore throughout the British Isles without restriction for launching and landing fishing expeditions and processing the catch. Specifically, it enacted that fishermen would have …free use of all ports, harbours, shores, and forelands in Great Britain, or the islands belonging to the crown of Great Britain, below the highest high-water mark, and for the space of one hundred yards on any waste or uncultivated land beyond such mark, within the land, for landing their nets, casks, and other materials, utensils, and stores, and for erecting tents, huts, and stages, and for the landing, pickling, curing, and reloading their fish, and in drying their nets, without paying any foreland or other dues, or any other sum or sums of money, or other consideration whatsoever, for such liberty (except as herein-after is excepted), any law, statute, or custom to the contrary notwithstanding.15 The granting of such wide-ranging rights is a striking indicator of the seriousness with which the expansion of the herring fishery was regarded. This is further testified to by the long series of highly detailed reports from House of Commons Committee ‘appointed to enquire into the state of the British Fisheries’, which sat from 1785 to 1786. A particular focus was the herring fishery, and the potential for its development along the west coast of Scotland.

3.2.5 The Herring Fisheries in Western Scotland The Fisheries Committee gave extended consideration to the question of how the herring fishery could be developed in the West of Scotland. There were particular

15 White Herring Fisheries Act 1771 (repealed); full text available from http://www.legislation.gov.uk/apgb/Geo3/11/31/1993-11-05?view=plain

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 21 concerns that the excise duty on salt, and the associated onerous financial and administrative burdens, would prevent the development of the fishery: With regard to the trade in Salt from England to Scotland, the restraints are also grievous and impolitic. The best refined Rock Salt is little inferior to Foreign Salt for curing Fish. This Salt the Irish, Dutch, Swedes, Danes, and others, may purchase duty-free; but the Scotch Fishermen, if they purchase that Salt, must not only give bonds in the same manner as for other Salt, but must also give security, that if that Salt is used in curing Fish, these Fish must be carried to England before the 5th of April following; and if only part used, the Fish and remainder of the Salt must be returned; and if no part of the Salt is used, the whole of it must be returned. Thus are the Scotch Fishers absolutely debarred from using, in any case, the English refined Rock Salt, which is by far the cheapest that can be employed in these Fisheries; and therefore cannot cure Fish on equal terms either with the Irish, Dutch, Norwegians, or Swedes; all of whom obtain this necessary article on much easier terms than they can. Is it a wonder, that the Scotch Fisheries should not much prosper, when they have been clogged with so many unreasonable restraints?16 The west coast was seen as being particularly challenged by these problems, in considerable part because of the lack of customs houses in the region. Long journeys were therefore required to collect or return the salt, difficulties made even more prohibitive by the requirement that bonds equivalent to the whole cost of the sale and excise had to be posted until the salt was returned. These challenges meant that in spite of broad public support for the principle that smaller producers should be participate in the cured herring operations, the development of a significant West Coast industry was in practice open only to larger scale entrepreneurial or quasi-institutional investors. This is clearly reflected in the development of the series of West Coast herring stations, of which Tanera More is now the sole substantial survivor.

3.3 The Herring Station at Tanera More 3.3.1 The Origins of Herring Curing in Loch Broom The first proposals for developing purpose-built structures for the herring industry in the vicinity of Loch Broom were made in the mid-eighteenth century. At this time, large herring shoals were regularly observed in the Loch and, on occasion, in nearby Loch Hourn. Captain John Forbes of New, factor of Coigach, suggested that the barony of Ullapool could be used for developing a fishing village: There is a large field of corn land fit to be fewed out for houses and gardens, great plenty of improvable barren ground, and as the herring fisher succeeds so well here, it

16 House of Commons, Reports from the Committees of the House of Commons, vol. 10 Miscellaneous Subjects 1785-1801 (London, 1803), p. 13.

22 Tanera More – Conservation Statement

is mighty probable that numbers of sea-faring people would resort to it and be found of getting small feus for houses and gardens.17 Forbes’ suggestion was not immediately implemented, and further plan to develop Old Dornie by one of his successors as Coigach factor also proved abortive. In March 1775, however, John Woodhouse, a prominent Liverpool merchant with extensive interests in the Mediterranean trade, made an application to the Commissioners for Annexed Estates. The Commissioners were then in possession of large areas of land in the Highlands that had been confiscated from participants in the Jacobite uprising of 1745. He was seeking a grant of land on Isle Martin to set up a fishery. Woodhouse’s intention was to cure red herrings in large quantities, using the methods developed at Great Yarmouth. In doing so, he was drawing on his experience of setting up a similar fishery on the Isle of Man. Woodhouse was granted a 41-year lease of ten acres at the south-east of the island. This enabled him to build the first of the Loch Broom herring stations, expending some £3500 on buildings, boats, salt and casks in the process. As a highly influential entrepreneur, moreover, he was able to overcome the challenges of the salt excise by persuading the Commissioners of Customs to establish an outpost on the Isle specifically for his herring station, so obviating the need to travel to distant Stornaway to obtain curing salt. The Isle Martin curing house survived into the mid-twentieth century, having been converted into a flour mill in the late 1930s. The surviving drawings for the mill conversion shows that plan consisted of a series of compartments within an elongated single-pile plan. The first contained a tank where the herring would be salted for around thirty hours; then there was a series of seven compartments, of which at least six appear to have been smokehouses; the last compartment appears to have been subdivided suggesting it may have been used for storage or packing the smoked herrings. Each smokehouse would have been open to the rafters, and the fish hung by the mouth from four foot long wooden spits in the smoke from slow oak fires for a period of either 20, or 28 to 30 days, depending on the level of cure desired (shorter for domestic consumption, longer for export).18 The use of multiple smokehouses presumably enabled a continuous cycle of smoking, with one smokehouse being emptied, prepared and refilled while the others were at various stages in the smoking process.

17 J. Munro, ‘Ullapool and the British Fisheries Society’, in J.R. Baldwin (ed.), People and Settlement in North-West Ross (Edinburgh: The Scottish Society for Northern Studies, 1994), pp. 245-6. 18 On the smoking process see House of Commons, Reports, vol. 10, p. 250: evidence of Francis Sadler given on the 24 April 1798.

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 23

Figure 9 Plan of the Isle Martin Herring Station showing proposals for conversion into a flour mill. https://islemartinprojects.org/

Figure 10 Elevation of the Isle Martin Herring Station showing proposals for conversion into a flour mill. https://islemartinprojects.org/

3.3.2 The Establishment of the Tanera More Herring Station The successful Isle Martin herring station provided a model that was soon followed by a local entrepreneur, Roderick Morison. A ‘sober pushing man’, Morison was the owner of an established herring curing business in Stornaway who was seeking to expand his supplies of herring for curing.19 He identified the area adjacent to the fine natural harbour on the island of Tanera More as a potential site for a new curing operation.20 The following sections of this report outline the history of the herring station constructed by Morison, and draw extensively on Catherine Dagg’s historical account prepared for Addyman Archaeology’s report on their investigation of the site. Morison purchased an area of ten Scots acres next to the bay on the east side of the Island in 1783. The very limited amount of arable land around it, however, was

19 Munro, ‘Ullapool’, p. 248. 20 Ibid.

24 Tanera More – Conservation Statement problematic, Morison fearing that the land would not produce enough food for the workers and their families. He petitioned to acquire the tenancy of Badantarbat, on the mainland in order to plant the crops that would feed the families on the island. Morison was not granted the tenancy, but he did manage to acquire a 41-year lease of the rest of island. Roderick Morison was apparently able to contemplate such an ambitious enterprise because he was supported by a business partner, John Mackenzie. There is evidence to suggest that Mackenzie married Morison’s daughter as his second wife, so the relationship was is likely to have been a social and familial, as well as an entrepreneurial, one.21 However, Mackenzie seems to have been mostly resident in London, so was presumably not much involved in the day-to-day running of the operation, which was left to Morison. Mackenzie recalled that his and Morison’s plan was to: purchase Herrings of the natives, having laid in annually a great stock of salt, casks, nets, and meal, all of which, except the meal, were generally brought from Greenock, and sometimes from Leith; the meal came from Caithness, and the eastern coast of Ross-shire; the casks and nets from Greenock were generally sent in vessels going to the Baltic, at 6d. or 8d. freight per barrel, with the nets in them; the salt chiefly from Liverpool and Lisbon, and sometimes from Leith, which was generally brought by our own vessels on their return from the markets of Lisbon or Leith, but the salt from Liverpool was brought in our own fishing vessels sent on purpose before the Fishing commenced: our chief object was to supply the West India merchants in London with White Herrings, and the home market of London with Red Herrings…22 The largely domestic market for the red herring produced in the area is apparently confirmed by the Statistical Account of Scotland, which states that ‘The herring cured in this country are sent to different markets, most frequently to Leith and Greenock, where they fetch high prices. Some are likewise exported to Ireland, where they usually fell to great advantage’.23 Their business operated on a fairly extensive scale, as Mackenzie claimed in 1787 that they had ‘erected warehouses for salt, casks nets etc, five complete houses for smoaking red herrings and a pier where five vessels might unload at the same time’.24 The station seems to have been fully functional by 1787, when John Knox, who was then undertaking a tour of the Highlands, reported on the operations of Morison’s business: … we walked along the coast until we came opposite to the Isle of Tanera, where we procured a boat that carried us safely across a narrow channel, to the house of Mr Morison.

21 Alexander Mackenzie, History of the Mackenzies with Genealogies of the Principal Families of the Name (Inverness: A. & W. Mackenzie, 1894), p. 449. 22 House of Commons, Reports, vol. 10, p. 235, testimony of John Mackenzie, 3 May 1798. 23 Sir John Sinclair, The Statistical Account of Scotland, Lochbroom, Ross and Cromarty, Vol. 10, Edinburgh: William Creech, 1794, p. 473. Available online from the University of Edinburgh, University of Glasgow (1999), ‘The Statistical Accounts of Scotland 1791-1845’ online service: http://stataccscot.edina.ac.uk/link/osa-vol10-p473-parish-ross_and_cromarty-lochbroom 24 NLS, MS 2619, p.17

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 25

The buildings erected here, are capacious and in every respect well adapted to the business of curing white and red herrings. Mr Morison, by residing in the vicinity of the fisheries, takes the benefit of all seasons, and every appearance of herrings of which he has the earliest intelligence.25 Morison had already had a bumper year in 1786, when he successfully took advantage of his great proximity to the herring grounds and the mobility of local fishermen to buy in considerable quantities of herring for curing. At this point, however, he clearly felt that the local fishermen lacked the necessary equipment and supplies to take full advantage of the abundant herring shoals. As a consequence, he was ‘obliged to come up to London, in March 1787, with the view of purchasing vessels, casks, staves and nets preparatory to the next fishing season.’26 It seems likely that the greater capital intensiveness of this stage of the operation, and the need to coordinate fishing activities in Loch Broom with supplies from London led him to form his partnership with Mackenzie, who had a substantial business in Bishopsgate Street in London.27 Further evidence of the nature of their enterprise can be found in the Statistical Account of Scotland, which states that the Tanera station only… was erected, in the year 1785, by a London company and a Mr Roderick Morison from Stornoway, a man of extensive mercantile talents, who was undertaker for the building, and afterwards became manager for the company.28 By the time Robert Fraser visited later in 1787, the system of loaning boats and equipment to local fishermen was clearly fully functioning: Mr. Morrison, Fish Curer, in the Island of Tonera, and Mr. Wodehouse, at Island Martin in Loch Broom, when I was there in the year 1787, furnished Boats themselves, and the people used to come from the distance of 30 or 40 miles inland, with their nets upon their backs, to fish, paying them a small acknowledgement for the use of the Boats, or a share of the Fish: Mr. Morrison and Mr. Wodehouse buying their Fish from them immediately on bringing them on shore. These were chiefly for Red Herrings.29 Morison was able to build a herring curing station of very similar design to that previously established by Woodhouse on Isle Martin. The herring station was clearly successful, leading the two entrepreneurs to buy a further ‘Fishing Station at Lochinver, to the north of Lochbroom’. Like the Isle Martin station, this had been established in 1775, but had failed to flourish to the same extent, largely because of

25 John Knox, A Tour through the Highlands of Scotland, and the Hebride Isles (London: J. Walter, R. Faulder, W. Gordon and C. Elliot, Dunlop and Wilson, 1787), pp. 238-9. 26 Ibid. p. 241. 27 Mackenzie’s evidence to the Parliamentary Commission on the Herring Fishery states that ‘In the year 1787 I formed a partnership with a Mr. Morrison, of Tamara, in Lochbroom, where we built a Fishing Station for curing Red Herrings, and warehouses for our salt and other stores’: House of Commons, Reports, vol. 10 p. 235. 28 Sinclair, Statistical Account of Scotland, p. 473. 29 Ibid. p. 249, testimony of Mr Robert Fraser, 11 May 1798.

26 Tanera More – Conservation Statement difficulties securing a satisfactory relationship with the excise office for the supply of salt.30 At its height, Mackenzie recalled that their business had ‘six decked vessels and about thirty boats’, bringing in large quantities of herring to be cured at their stations at Tanera and Lochinver.

3.3.3 The Construction of the Tanera More Herring Station The buildings at Tigh an Quay are the standing remains of the herring station originally constructed around 1787 by Morison and Mackenzie. The surviving buildings are constructed of rubble bound with shell mortar, techniques still unfamiliar at that date in the western Highlands, suggesting that they were the work of imported labour. Archaeological investigation by Catherine Dagg and then by Addyman Associates suggests that the earliest surviving structures consist of two parallel ranges oriented on an approximately north-east/south-west axis, separated by a long paved courtyard, subsequently known as the planestones. The building to the north was the main area for curing, and closely followed the model at Isle Martin. Like the Isle Martin station, it consists of a series of compartments, of which the majority were clearly smokehouses. The Tanera design seems to have been somewhat more complex, however, as it incorporated accommodation at the northern end, presumably for Morison as the business’s owner-manager. The accommodation seems to have been reached by means of an external stone staircase to first floor level on the north side of the range, which is visible in early photographs of the site. The north range was three storeys high, and twentieth-century photographs, some in possession of the current owner and others taken by Frank Fraser Darling, show that it had a pitched slate roof terminated by gable ends. The extant structure suggests that there were originally intended to be at least six compartments at each level of the building. The area under the manager’s accommodation at the northern end, although currently unexcavated, was probably occupied by the brining tank. Most of the neighbouring compartments were clearly intended to be smokehouses, and as at Isle Martin, the intention seems to have been to provide each smokehouse with a door and window at ground floor level opening into the courtyard. The pattern of door and window openings suggests that there were intended to be five compartments, at least four of would which were clearly smokehouses. The last compartment, at the south end, is more puzzling. It does not seem to have had a door and window of the kind found in the neighbouring compartments and may have been a room used for packing the cured herrings into barrels or for storage. However, Mackenzie was clear that he and Morison constructed ‘five complete houses for smoking herrings’, implying that either the last compartment may also have been a smokehouse or, perhaps less likely, that there was a fifth smokehouse in the southern half of the brining tank/accommodation area.

30 Knox, Tour, pp. 244-45.

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 27

The south range is apparently contemporaneous or nearly contemporaneous with the north range. It consisted of a long two-storey structure with gable ends, indicating that it too had a pitched roof that was, presumably, also slated. At ground level, there was a room at each end, while in between was a series of five openings separated by substantial piers. This range must be the ‘warehouses for salt, casks, nets etc.’ mentioned by Mackenzie. At first floor level, there were further rooms at each end with fireplaces, suggesting that they may have been used either as offices or for accommodation. At some point various aspects of the design were changed. In the north range, the extant partition walls between the smokehouses appear to be later interventions, as they are not tied into the rest of the structure. Further evidence that these walls were re-sited can be found in their relation to the window and door openings into the courtyard. This is irregular, with one of the window openings into the courtyard being adjacent to and blocked by one of the partitions. As a result, the original five compartments were reduced to four. However, the presence of wooden and masonry ties in the wall above (presumably to support wooden partitions between the upper levels of the smokehouses) suggests that the decision to move the walls was probably taken not long after—and perhaps even during—initial construction. Further evidence to this effect can be seen in the north facing windows at the rear (now blocked or altered but with their locations still clearly legible). These have positions correlating with the centre line between the partitions, and there is no evidence of earlier openings in different positions. Whatever the exact date of the change the result was to create four large smokehouses in place of the originally envisaged five compartments. It is possible that the reduction in the number of smokehouses reflects a change in the intended market for the red herrings being produced at Tanera. As we have seen, the standard length of curing for export herrings was around twenty-eight days. Five smokehouses would have enabled continuous production on the assumption each smokehouse in turn was emptied and restocked over the course of a week and then smoked for the twenty-eight day cure period. If, however, the domestic market was being targeted, as the documentary evidence suggests, it would have made more sense to have four larger houses, as this would have sufficed to maintain a continuous series of twenty-day cures. At about the same time that the partitions were introduced, walls were constructed at each end of the courtyard, with a wide arched opening at the northern (quay) end and a narrower square-headed gateway to the south. An ancillary structure, apparently two stories high and of approximately the same area as the manager’s accommodation, was constructed parallel with and to the north of the north end of the north range. This created a further smaller courtyard on the north side of the manager’s residence. A further ancillary building to the south was also constructed, presumably at around the same time. These were all almost certainly built during the site’s use as a herring station.

3.4 James Macdonald of Skeabost In 1791, Roderick Morison was drowned on his way to Stornoway. As a result, the company was dissolved and the premises sold at auction in Edinburgh on the 9th of April 1792. The lot was bought by James MacDonald of Skeabost, although he did

28 Tanera More – Conservation Statement not acquire the lease for the rest of the island. According to the Statistical Account of Scotland, it took some time for MacDonald to return the Herring Station to full use: During his [Morison’s] superintendency, the fishing proved a lucrative branch of business for the company; but he died in summer 1791; and soon after the company was dissolved, and the house and appendages sold to a Mr Macdonald from the Isle of Sky. This gentleman has not had time to make much of the fishing as yet; but, in so favourable a situation for that business, it is not to be doubted, but he will soon experience the same good success with his predecessors.31 It seems that within a few years Macdonald had indeed managed to re-establish the station as an flourishing business, as the 1798 Militia list for Lochbroom records two boats, a clerk, two coopers and two servants at the station. By the 1810s the herring haul was highly variable, but there were still some seasons of curing at the station. The Caledonian Mercury reported in 1805 that: A good herring fishing has set in on this coast and is likely to continue. Mr Macdonald at Lochinver, in the course of last week, got 1400 barrels from the country boats. There is good fishing at Glendu, and Lochbroom promises well.32 And again in 1813: There is already great appearance of an abundant herring fishing in this quarter, large bodies of herrings having been seen along the West coast, and some fine herrings have been taken in different lochs in Skye, Lewis and mainland coast. The fishing, of course, will commence early, and it is happy circumstance the Lieutenant Mitchell, with the Charles gun brig, is ordered to attend to keep good order, and check all irregularities and abuses common among the fishermen.33 By 1824, however, the herring industry was considered long finished, as the herring shoals were increasingly exhausted as a result of overfishing. When MacDonald put up the station for sale in 1845, the price was reduced from the £2000 he had paid fifty-three years previously to only £900.

3.5 Meyrick Bankes In spite of the reduced price, the lot did not find a buyer until 1865. The purchaser was Meyrick Bankes, owner of coal mines in Lancashire. He seems to have used only the pier to bring his yacht each year to be bottomed and painted. However, various changes were made to the manager’s accommodation, apparently after the buildings ceased to be used for herring curing. A fireplace was inserted in the north wall at ground floor level, indicating that the area where the brining tank is likely to have been had been converted for residential use. The construction of the fireplace is largely in brick with a timber lintel. There is also considerable evidence of brick repair and reinstatement in the manager’s house and the remains of the northern ancillary building. The small courtyard between the manager’s house and

31 Sinclair, Statistical Account of Scotland, p. 473. 32 Caledonian Mercury, 7 Sept 1805 33 Caledonian Mercury, 21 June 1813

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 29 the northern ancillary building appears to have been infilled, as early photographs show end wall to the south with interior plastering and sockets for joists. This pattern of evidence suggests that the limited original accommodation was being expanded into the ground floor and across into the ancillary building, with the former open courtyard becoming a kind of entrance vestibule. The extent of the changes suggest that some capital was being invested in the structure to improve the accommodation. It seems likely that this should be associated with Meyrick Bankes’ acquisition of Tigh an Quay, and was undertaken either to provide accommodation for his own use or, perhaps more likely, to improve the property in preparation for letting. It is certain that Bankes subsequently advertised the curing station as a leasehold property in 1867. George and Isabella MacLean and Roderick and Catherine MacLean took on the tenancy and moved in as ordinary crofters, with no interest in curing fish. They seem to have been responsible for enclosing Irish Park, a large area within a wall to the north of the Herring Station. In spite of their attempts to make the property work as a croft, they were unable to arrest the decay of the Herring Station buildings. The south range of the Herring Station collapsed in 1870, apparently the result of death watch beetle activity. The rest of the structure was soon following, while the occupants tried to counter the increasing decay as best they could. Frank Fraser-Darling, in his book Island Farm, mentions the crofters, their ill fortune and poltergeist activity:34 The family that came to Tigh an Quay in 1868 and finally left it in 1923 did suffer dire misfortune. There were two brothers and their wives, industrious folk who dug the whole of the big park – from deck to deck as Murdo Macleod said to me...Soon after (the collapse of the south range) the death watch beetle got into the red pine timbering of the house and the remaining range of buildings and utterly riddled the place. Floors and roof of the building collapsed, so that little more than the house and immediate penthouses remained. When we came to pull the house to bits, very gingerly for fear of it coming down about our ears, we found many of the poor little bodging jobs the occupants had done to maintain the interior structure a little longer...... the beginning of the ruin of the quay [took place] when fishing smacks from Stornoway brazenly came in one day when all the menfolk were at the fishing, and took away many of the dressed stones which formed the coping of the quay. … The family at Tigh an Quay then began to pay the price of the exorcism. They paid in sickness when they had previously been so healthy; two members were drowned; cattle died; the rotten woodwork of the house itself was crumbling. When we (Fraser Darling) first came here there was a small roofless drystone building to the north of the Planestones, which, from the structure of the floor, we rightly judged to have been a byre. Why, we thought, should they make this when there are so many old buildings? The answer is a pathetic one – the poor folk thought that if they built a new byre they might break the spell which was killing their stock. But doom was gathering momentum for Tigh an Quay and its occupants; there was no respite. The

34 Frank Fraser Darling, Island Years, Island Farm (one volume edition; Toller Fratrum, Dorset: Little Toller Books, 2014)

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last member of the family, who left the place in 1923, was suffering from a nervous breakdown.35 Banke’s daughter, Maria Ann Liot Bankes exchanged the land with Hugh Mackenzie of Dundonnell in 1893. The latter was based in Australia and the Dundonnell Estate was heavily in debt. After the last surviving member of the MacLean family left the island in 1923, the Herring Station was completely abandoned for about 15 years, until it was sold by the factor of the Dundonnell Estate to Sir Frank Fraser-Darling.

3.6 Frank Fraser-Darling: ‘Island Farm’ Frank Fraser Darling (1903-1979) is celebrated as a pioneer ecologist and the author of a series of highly readable scientific and autobiographical books, some of which are still in print. Fraser Darling followed an unusual route into his profession and to the island.36 He was born Frank Moss Darling, the illegitimate son of Harriet Darling and Frank Moss, believed to have been a soldier who was killed in action in Africa in 1917. In spite of pressure from her prosperous and conventional family, Harriet refused to give up her son for adoption, and they remained unusually close throughout her long life. She encouraged an early interest in nature and after a difficult experience of school—where he was bullied—he went to work aged fifteen as farmer’s boy in Derbyshire. He then attended Midland Agricultural College at Sutton Bonnington, where he met Edith Marian ‘Bobbie’ Fraser. They married in 1925, and from then onwards he used the name Fraser Darling, even after their subsequent divorce. In 1928, Fraser Darling started work as a doctoral student in the Institute of Animal Genetics in the University of Edinburgh, and two years later he received a permanent appointment as Chief Officer of the Imperial Institute of Animal Genetics. However, his real wish was to understand how animals live within their environment, and that required active field research rather than an essentially administrative position. He wrote that ‘I did some work on animal behaviour for my own amusement, but realised that if it was to be of permanent value and not just anecdotal, I must get away from the artificial atmosphere of experimentation under laboratory conditions’.37 In 1933 he applied for and received one of the first Leverhulme Fellowships, in order to study red deer in their natural environment. Fraser Darling moved with his wife and son to Brae House in Dundonnell, where they lived in primitive conditions but in close proximity to the wild environment that was his passion. The Leverhulme fellowship ended in 1936, by which time he had accumulated sufficient information to prepare his first major publication, A Herd of Red Deer (1937). In the course 1937, and in search of next steps after the end of the Leverhulme fellowship, Fraser Darling had visited Tanera. He had long cherished the dream of

35 Fraser Darling, Island Years, Island Farm, pp. 215, 216-7. 36 A useful short biography of Fraser Darling can be found in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography; further useful detail is given in the autobiographical Prologue to the one volume edition of Island Years, Island Farm, pp. 19—29. 37 Ibid, p. 24.

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 31 settling on an isolated Scottish island, and after his marriage to Bobbie the dream had become a joint one. Tanera had already come to their attention as a possible purchase through discussions with the Factor of the Dundonell estate. After the visit in 1937, they decided to follow through, and negotiated a sale price of £60 for the Herring Station and the surrounding land at Tigh an Quay, forming a total area of ten Scots acres. As we have seen, the property was by then in a ruinous condition. Death watch beetle had left the workshops and stores on the south and the smokehouses on the north roofless, and were in the process of reducing the former manager’s house to a similar state. The Quay had also suffered significant losses. As a result, when Fraser-Darling moved to the island with his wife and son in May 1938, they initially camped in a bell tent, before they moved into the former school house. When the exposed clifftop location and poor physical condition of the school house proved unsatisfactory, they went on to erect a wooden cabin on the Planestones between the two ranges of the Herring Station. A second cabin was built there and subsequently moved into Irish Park. Fraser-Darling drained and brought into cultivation the large park and Irish Park, erected fences and planted trees. He also stripped the interior of the house and demolished the gables and wall-heads of the north range, cleared the rubble from the south range to create a walled garden, and converted the west and north range into a concrete-floored cow byre. His most important contribution to the survival of the Herring Station complex was the gradual reconstruction of the quay and its drystone wall, which he and Bobbie undertook themselves with help from visiting friends. Although the decision to move to Tanera More was in part the fulfilment of a personal dream, the greater purpose of Fraser Darling’s work was to show by example how the Highland landscape—denuded of natural cover by sheep grazing and enclosure to produce hunting estates—could be restored as agricultural land that functioned in a productive balance with the greater natural environment. This reflected his pioneering interest in ecology and the environment, the aspects of his career that are increasingly recognised as seminal contributions to modern ecological thought. His interest in Highland agriculture led to his becoming an agricultural advisor in crofting areas, and this was followed by his appointment to the directorship of the government-sponsored West Highland Survey in 1944.38 The survey was established to produce a major report into how the agriculture and economy of the Highlands could be developed. The findings were controversial. The report portrayed in stark terms the drastic decline that had afflicted the Highland population over the course of the late

38 A valuable account of this aspect of Fraser Darling career in its wider political context can be found in Mark Toogood, ‘Ecology and the West Highland Survey, 1944-1955’ [draft], http://www.academia.edu/18029106/Ecology_and_the_Total_Landscape_The_West_Highla nd_Survey_1944-1955_draft; final version in In: Spatializing the History of Ecology: Sites, Journeys, Mappings. Routledge Studies in the History of Science, Technology and Medicine (29). (New York: Routledge, 2017), pp. 99-118.

32 Tanera More – Conservation Statement eighteenth and nineteenth-centuries, and identified its most immediate cause as the followed the introduction of intensive sheep-farming and the formation of the great Highland sporting estates in the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Such ideas were common currency at the time, but more controversial was his claim that this was only the final blow to a system that had been increasingly compromised over the course of more than a thousand years by the gradual destruction of the area’s ancient forests. The resulting environmental degradation, he argued, had so reduced the carrying capacity of the land that the human population had undergone a form of Malthusian crisis. Even more provocatively, Fraser Darling suggested potential solutions to the ‘Highland Problem’ that conflicted with conventional wisdom and prior government policy. Although Fraser Darling refrained from explicitly advocating any particular approach, it was clear that he opposed the technological solutions to improving Highland agriculture favoured in ‘rational’ and technocratic government circles. Rather, his sympathies lay with a ‘rewilding’ of the Highlands through a reduction in the sheep population and extensive restoration of forest cover, in sum by ‘working with nature and through nature to heal and rebuild’.39 As a result, the publication of the final report of the West Highland Survey was delayed until 1955. By this time, the political situation with regard to the Highlands had so changed that the report had little direct impact in the government’s Highland economic and agricultural policies. However, Fraser Darling’s work was read with attention and interest in the USA, where it was regarded as a hugely important contribution to the burgeoning study of human ecology. His profile as an environmental thinker and writer grew in this period through a series of influential positions in UNESCO and World Conservation Foundation in Washington, D.C., in the course of which he travelled, researched and wrote widely. Fraser Darling’s emphasis on the need to develop harmonious relationships between human needs and the natural world gained still wider exposure through his 1969 Reith Lectures. Among the most remarkable of his far-sighted observations was the increasing impact of technological advance, and the increasing productivity that accompanied it, on the natural world, and especially the climate, as a result. The development of Fraser Darling’s career led him to move away from Tanera More, but his experience of farming at Tigh an Quay played a pivotal role in the evolution of his ecological thought, and provided the testing ground and springboard for his later involvement in the environmental movement. In addition, it provided a far-sighted model for more recent attempts at rewilding the Scottish Highlands and for developing sustainable and productive approaches to crofting. Tanera More consequently has a central role in the story of the development of the modern ecological movement.

39 Mark Toogood, ‘Ecology and the West Highland Survey, 1944-1955’ [draft], http://www.academia.edu/18029106/Ecology_and_the_Total_Landscape_The_West_Highla nd_Survey_1944-1955_draft; final version in: Spatializing the History of Ecology: Sites, Journeys, Mappings. Routledge Studies in the History of Science, Technology and Medicine (29). Routledge, New York, pp. 99-118.

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3.7 After Fraser-Darling Tigh an Quay was sold to the Rev Douglas Fleming Baxter, who did not alter or use the buildings. Finally, the whole island (now a single land unit) was bought in 1968 by KP Frampton, who demolished the buildings to the north of the Herring Station and the building at the east side of the Irish Park to build two modern houses for the fish farm workers, working off the east coast of the island. In 1989, the buildings of the former herring station were listed by Historic Scotland as ‘Tanera More, fishing station and quay’ (LB7766), in Category B. In 1994 the Frampton family sold Tanera More to Mr Ronnie Brown, who sold it to the Wilder family in 1996. In 2017 the current owner bought island. Summer Isles Enterprises Ltd is the limited company that now manages the island.

3.8 Historical Maps The following historical map regression is a summary of one previously prepared by Addyman Archaeology40. The Summer Isles appear frequently on post-medieval cartography; however, the island of Tanera More does not appear to have been accurately mapped or labelled until the mid-18th century. The first detailed map of the island is General Roy’s military survey, 1752 (See Figure 11). The island, called here ‘Taundara mor’ is outlined but no details are noted internally beyond a broad summary of the terrain.

40 Addyman Archaeology, 2018, Tanera Mor, Summer Isles, Achiltibuie, Herring Station-Historic Building Survey: December 2017.

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Figure 11 Detail of Roy’s Military Survey of Scotland, showing the island of Tanera Mor, surveyed 1747-1755 (© NLS). James Dorret’s 1751 General map of Scotland and islands thereto belonging also gives a recognisable approximation of the island, although it is instead labelled as ‘M. Harura’. Name variations are also encountered on late eighteenth and early nineteenth-century mapping, including ‘Haurara’ on a 1794 navigational chart, ‘Haurera’ on John Cary’s 1801 map of north-west Scotland and as ‘Havra’ on William Faden’s 1807 Map of Scotland. One of the first large-scale depictions of the site itself is found on a 1784 plan of Tanera More held in the archives of Castle Leod (see Figure 12). The map shows several buildings at the east side of an area of enclosed cultivated land, overlooking the bay. The enclosed area appears to be the same as the present zone of partially tended grass and scrub west of the bay, with a central rise, a path heading north and an uncultivated zone that corresponds with the location of the burial ground. The main building is depicted as a long L-plan range, associated enclosure and a further L-shaped building beyond. There are also two smaller buildings labelled ‘Tenants houses’ immediately south of the long range. The pier does not appear, although its emplacement is indicated as ‘Peir intended here’. It is not clear how accurate the plan is; however, the depiction of the rise and burial ground suggests at least some attempt at accuracy. It is plausible, though it cannot be confirmed, that the long range on the plan corresponds with the north range of the herring station as built.

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Figure 12 1784 sale plan of the anchorage at Tanera Mor. North to top right (© Castle Leod archives).

The first accurate representation of the herring station is found on an admiralty chart of 1849 (see Figure 13). The enclosed cultivated area, burial ground, herring station and pier are shown, along with a separate building immediately north of the station along the shore. The map does not distinguish the separate structures within the station, but it can be inferred that the north and south ranges were linked, with two ancillary buildings abutting the north-east corner of the north range and the east elevation of the south range respectively. The 1st edition six-inch Ordnance Survey map (Ross-shire & Cromartyshire Sheet IIIA, surveyed 1875, published 1881), shows the same configuration (see Figure 14). This map, however, depicts the south range as roofless, as was one of the two ancillary structures abutting the north-east corner of the north range. Lastly, the 2nd edition six-inch Ordnances Survey mapping (Ross and Cromarty Sheet IIIA, revised 1902, published 1906) shows the state that the Fraser-Darlings encountered when they moved in the island (see Figure 15). Both ranges and the ancillary structures now appear to be in ruins. The only remaining building is the manager’s house, at the east end of the north range, which still appears to be roofed and in adequate condition. According to Island Farm, the roof and gables were lowered, along with some other alterations, transforming the herring station into the configuration it still has to this day.

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Figure 13 Loch Inver to Loch Broom, Admiralty Chart 2501, surveyed 1848-9. North to top (© NLS).

Figure 14 1st edition 6-inch Ordnance Survey, Ross-shire and Cromartyshire (Mainland), Sheet IIIA, surveyed 1875, published 1881 (© NLS).

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Figure 15 2nd edition 6-inch Ordnance Survey, Ross-shire and Cromartyshire (Mainland), Sheet IIIA, revised 1902, published 1906 (© NLS).

3.9 Historical Photography The following historical photographs were gathered by Addyman Archaeology, and are drawn from the larger group included in their report on the site.41 The early 20th century photographs are from two principal sources: a set of photographs, dating from 1921, belonging to a local family and supplied by the present client; and an extensive set taken by Frank Fraser-Darling during his time on the island in the late 1930s and early 1940s. A very interesting photograph from 1921 shows the whole area, looking west from the north-east coastal slopes of Meall More (see Figure 16). There is a controlled fire taking place in the south-east corner of the Irish Park. This shows that the walls of the north range, including the gable ends, still stood to their original height, though roofless. The manager’s house, at the east end, is still standing and apparently in good condition. This range appears to present more surviving harl than is currently the case. The south range is roofless, its north (courtyard-facing) wall already missing, but its two gable walls are still complete.

41 Addyman Archaeology, 2018, Tanera Mor, Summer Isles, Achiltibuie, Herring Station-Historic Building Survey: December 2017.

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Figure 16 1921 photograph of the herring complex, looking west.

Figure 17 Fraser-Darling’s photograph of the complex prior to redevelopment, 1938, looking south-west.

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One of the photographs published in Fraser-Darling’s Island Farm (1944) shows the herring station complex prior to its transformation. This shows the principal frontage in detail (see Figure 17). No major changes since 1921, save for the loss of the lean-to on the footprint of Tigh-an-Quay Cottage, can be seen. At least three openings are visible in the north wall of the ancillary structure abutting the south range on this photograph. Apparently, there was a wide first floor entrance to the extension to the north range at its eastern end, strongly suggestive of a hayloft. Given the presence of the large masonry staircase within this building (also suggestive of a functional use), it is plausible that this building succeeded the first floor of the manager’s house, north range, as a storage facility.

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4.0 SETTING AND VIEWS ASSESSMENT 4.1 Introduction The purpose of this section is to assess the setting of the historic assets. It is intended to establish a conservation baseline only. Historic Environment Scotland defines setting in its guidance document Managing Change in the Historic Environment: Setting as follows: ‘Setting’ is the way the surroundings of a historic asset or place contribute to how it is understood, appreciated and experienced. Monuments, buildings, gardens and settlements were almost always placed and orientated deliberately, normally with reference to the surrounding topography, resources, landscape and other structures. Over time, these relationships change, although aspects of earlier settings can be retained. Setting can therefore not simply be defined by a line on a map, and is likely to be unrelated to modern landownership or to curtilage, often extending beyond immediate property boundaries into the wider area. 42

4.1.1 Managing Change in the Historic Environment: Setting (2016) In line with its Policy Statement, Historic Environment Scotland produced a series of guidance notes to provide best practice advice There is clear guidance concerning the assessment of setting in Managing Change in the Historic Environment: Setting: 1. Setting can be important to the way in which historic structures or places are understood, appreciated and experienced. It can often be integral to a historic asset’s cultural significance… 3. Setting often extends beyond the property boundary or ‘curtilage’ of an individual historic asset into a broader landscape context. Both tangible and less tangible elements can be important in understanding the setting. Less tangible elements may include function, sensory perceptions or the historical, artistic, literary and scenic associations of places or landscapes.43 There is guidance on how to define and analyse setting: Key viewpoints to, from and across the setting of a historic asset should be identified. Often certain views are critical to how a historic asset is or has been approached and seen, or understood when looking out. These views were sometimes deliberately manipulated, manufactured and/or maintained, and may still be readily understood and appreciated today. Depending on the historic asset or place these could include specific points on current and historical approaches, routeways, associated farmland, other related buildings, monuments, natural features, etc.

42 HES Setting. p.6 43 Historic Environment Scotland Managing change in the historic environment: setting (2016). p.5

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Sometimes these relationships can be discerned across wide areas and even out to distant horizons… Changes in the surroundings since the historic asset or place was built should be considered, as should the contribution of the historic asset or place to the current landscape. In some cases the current surroundings will contribute to a sense of place, or how a historic asset or place is experienced. The value attributed to a historic asset by the community or wider public may influence the sensitivity of its setting. Public consciousness may place a strong emphasis on an asset and its setting for aesthetic reasons, or because of an artistic or historic association. Such associative values can contribute to the significance of a site, and to the sensitivity of its setting.44

4.2 Setting of the asset The location of the Herring Station and Quay was chosen for practical rather than aesthetic reasons. The primary factor for choosing Tanera More for the Herring Station was the availability of the Anchorage as a natural harbour for fishing boats, allowing their catches and supplies to be landed with relative ease and providing a sheltered location for them to moor when not in use. The placement of the Quay directly reflects these purposes: it has been located to one side of the harbour so as to form a narrow sheltered inlet to protect moored boats. The Herring Station was then constructed as closely as was reasonably possible to the Quay to minimise the need to carry heavy loads to and from the boats. The immediate setting therefore contributes directly to the legibility of the buildings as a functional structures. The wider surroundings, with the graveyard and Irish park to the north, contribute directly to the historical understanding of the building, in the first case by documenting the human contribution to its functioning, and in the second by reflecting the transformation of the Herring Station into a croft, where the enclosed area could be used to contain livestock and/or protect valuable crops.

4.3 Views towards the historic asset The setting of the Herring Station and Quay at the edge of the shoreline within a valley surrounded by a range of hills ensures that it is visible from a wide area. On the island of Tanera More itself, the hills that ring the valley provide striking vistas onto the waters and the buildings below. There are also multiple views from boats and shipping sailing in Loch Broom, and distant views across Loch Broom from the opposite shore, including direct intervisibility with the category-C listed Achiltibuie Former Mill’ (LB7753). The views towards the asset have changed significantly since initial construction. The original building would have been white harled, enhancing its visibility. Current views are toward a ruined site. Its visual impact is therefore less conspicuous, but it should still be noted that the ruins provide a widely visible illustration of the fate of

44 Historic Environment Scotland Managing change in the historic environment: setting. p.9

42 Tanera More – Conservation Statement the burst of economic development that took place in the late eighteenth century and the decline that followed thereafter.

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5.0 ASSESSMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE 5.1 Introduction The Burra Charter provides the following definition of cultural significance: Cultural significance means aesthetic, historic, scientific, social or spiritual value for past, present or future generations. Cultural significance is embodied in the place itself, its fabric, setting, use, associations, meanings, records, related places and related objects. 45 Significance is a specific heritage term. It is defined in the National Planning Policy Framework (2012), which while only applicable in England, reflects the understanding of this term in Scotland: The value of a heritage asset to this and future generations because of its heritage interest. That interest may be archaeological, architectural, artistic or historic. Significance derives not only from a heritage asset’s physical presence, but also from its setting.46 This assessment evaluates the Herring Station at Tanera More as a place that embodies cultural heritage, based on the research presented in the previous sections. This assessment follows the guidance laid out by Historic Environment Scotland which requires that the cultural heritage of any site or building should be considered from different points of view to reach a balanced judgement of its cultural significance in a national and international context. The following assessment of the cultural significance of Tanera More is based upon the analysis and understanding of the historical development of the site; it takes into account the tangible physical and documentary evidence, as well as intangible historical and social associations, presented in previous sections of the conservation statement. This will enable parameters for appropriate and sensitive change at the site to be established that will respect significant elements of its design and fabric. The significance of these individual elements (landscape, structures, parts of buildings etc.) is evaluated and presented in a tabular form and illustrated using shaded plans and elevations. This grading of elements into categories of significance will help to identify significant elements of the buildings, as well as those which may be of an intrusive nature, that is, those that adversely impact upon the appreciation of elements of greater significance and should be removed or changed.

45 P. Marquis-Kyle & M. Walker, The illustrated Burra Charter: good practice for heritage places (Australia ICOMOS: 2004). p. 11 46 National Planning Policy Framework, Annex 2: Glossary (Department of Communities and Local Government, 2012)

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5.2 Historical significance 5.2.1 What is historical significance Historical significance encompasses the importance of the relationship of a site to the evolving pattern of our cultural or natural history, or has a strong or special association with the life or works of a person, or group of persons, of importance in our history. A site may have historical significance because it has influenced, or has been influenced by, a historical figure, event, or activity, or as the site of an important event. For any given place the significance will be greater where evidence of the association or event survives in situ, or where the setting is substantially intact, than where it has been changed or evidence does not survive. However, some events or associations may be so important that the place retains significance regardless of subsequent treatment. 5.2.2 Historical significance of Tanera More Herring Station and Tigh an Quay The former Herring Station at Tanera More has regional and national significance as the only red herring station on the west coast of Scotland to survive with substantively intact standing remains above ground. Some other fishing stations do survive in some form, for example at Ullapool or Rodel. However, they appear either not to have been constructed for the industrially demanding red herring cure or to have been so extensively altered that their original internal form and function is no longer readily legible. This rarity value enhances the association of the site with its history in a broader national and international context, as part of the development of the European herring fishery, with its wide-ranging export markets across the UK, in the Baltic, Mediterranean and the Caribbean. More specifically: - It is the only substantively surviving building that documents the advent in western Scotland of highly capitalised, proto-industrial approaches to the processing of fish, through a combination of local enterprise and capital from London. - The building is one of the earliest instances of solid masonry and lime mortar construction with slate roofing, in an environment previously dominated by earth, drystane and clay-bonded rubble construction, and thatched roofing. - It also documents attempts to foster economic development in the western Highlands in the years after the 1745 rebellion, part of the broader story of economic interactions between the ‘centre’ and the ‘periphery’ that have had fundamental impacts on the Highlands from the eighteenth century to the present. - The station’s primary product, red herring for domestic consumption, links it with the cities across the British Isles that it would have helped supply - The production of white herring for export to the Caribbean links Tanera to wider narratives of empire and colonisation, as well as to the plantation economy and the slaves who sustained it. The site’s nineteenth-century history gives rise to some, though lesser, significance, as it documents the economic reversal and population decline that followed the preceding pattern of intensification of socio-economic activity.

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- The transformation of the buildings for leisure and for crofting mark the collapse of the west coast herring industry. - This in turn reflects the historically significant environmental impacts of the process of intensification of economic exploitation that significantly degraded the Highland environment and the livelihoods that depended on it - Notably, the purchase of woods and forest to provide fuel for burning in the smokehouse and raw material for the construction of barrels impacted on the Highlands’ already greatly reduced forest cover, while the overfishing of herring in their spawning grounds is likely to have contributed to the collapse of the west coast herring fishery in the early nineteenth century. - The progressive decay of the buildings in this period is a significant marker of the resulting decline in population that culminated in the eventual abandonment of the island, which parallels major population declines in the wider western Highlands and Islands. The Herring Station and the wider site at Tigh an Quay are also of historical significance as a result of their association with the English ecologist Frank Fraser Darling. Fraser Darling was a pioneer conservationist who worked significantly in the Scottish Highlands and Islands and who lived and conducted work on Tanera More between 1939 and 1943. - The site is of particular significance as the subject of one of Fraser Darling’s most popular books, Island Years - Fraser Darling’s attempt to introduce sustainable agricultural practices at Tanera marks the beginning of his sustained concern to promote the reinvigoration of the natural environment of the Highlands - As such it is highly significant forerunner of attempts to restore traditional crofting practices and to ‘rewild’ areas degraded by use for sheep grazing or enclosed for use as sporting estates - It also marks an important stage in the development of the wider ecological movement, in which Fraser Darling was one of the seminal figures

5.3 Architectural, aesthetic and design significance 5.3.1 What is architectural, aesthetic and design significance Significance derived from the architectural, aesthetic and design qualities of a historic asset, can be the result of conscious design, including artistic endeavour. Equally, significance can be the seemingly fortuitous outcome of the way in which a place has evolved and been used over time. Many places combine these two aspects. Design significance relates primarily to the aesthetic qualities generated by the conscious design of a building, structure or landscape as a whole. It embraces composition (form, proportions, massing, silhouette, views and vistas, circulation and usually materials or planting, decoration or detailing, and craftsmanship). Strong indicators of importance are quality of design and execution, and innovation, particularly if influential more broadly. Aesthetic values which are not substantially the product of formal design, typically developed over time, more or less fortuitously, as the result of a succession of

46 Tanera More – Conservation Statement responses within a particular cultural framework, for example extensions to an earlier building or structure. Aesthetic value resulting from the action of nature on human works, particularly the enhancement of the appearance of a place by the passage of time creating a pleasing patina, may overlie the significance of a conscious design.

5.3.2 Architectural, aesthetic and design significance of Tanera More Herring Station Tanera More Herring Station has architectural, aesthetic and design significance, as an exceptional survival of an eighteenth-century purpose built industrial building, the only red herring fishing station on the west coast of Scotland to survive with standing remains above ground in substantively original condition. - It is of particular significance as one of the earliest slate-roofed lime-and- rubble buildings in this area of western Scotland, an area previously dominated by earth, clay-bonded rubble and drystane construction, generally thatched rather than slate-roofed. - It has strong design significance as a purpose-built fish-processing station, which can be seen as an architectural response to the practical challenges of operating an industrial smokery. - In particular, the physical form directly reflects both the curing process itself and the ancillary storage and workshop areas needed to support it; this is particularly evident in the structure of the facing ranges, with the salting and smoking areas to the north and the workshop and storage areas to the south. Early minor alterations to the layout of the buildings also show how the building was changed to adapt and perhaps improve the proto-industrial processes. - The building’s rational design gives rise to a distinctive aesthetic that is both functional and highly ordered; attention was clearly given to regularity in the arrangement of openings for doors and windows, and the overall plan form displays considerable concern with symmetry and composition. - The setting of the now ruined building in the harbour has some aesthetic significance, providing a visual focus that is visible from the higher ground around as well as across the waters of Loch Broom, where there is intervisibility with the category C-listed ‘Achiltibuie Former Mill’ (LB7753) on the opposite bank of the loch. - In addition, the ruined state of the building evokes the island’s vanished past and contributes to the romantic character of the landscape.

5.4 Social significance 5.4.1 What is social significance Social significance represents the strong or special association of the site with a recognisable group of people for social, spiritual or cultural reasons. For these people, the place may figure in their collective experience or memory, they may draw part of their identity from it, or have emotional links to it. They may

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 47 derive special identity or distinctiveness perhaps from an activity that is associated with the place, rather than with its physical fabric. Compared with other types of significance, social significance tends to be less dependent on the survival of historic fabric. This significance may also change over time, and may not always be affirmative for these groups of people. 5.4.2 Social significance of Tanera More Herring Station The island of Tanera More and the Herring Station have various dimensions of social significance, especially for the local population. - The herring fishing station had a strong social significance for the fishermen who worked there, some of whom were buried on the island, and for their families; although much diminished, there may be descendants of the fishing families in the area for whom the island, and the burial ground in particular, may have special important because of this. - In addition, Tanera More and Tigh an Quay in particular were the site of crofting activity in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and so have social significance as a symbol of the strong links between people and land characteristic of the western Highlands. - The island and the former Herring Station also have particular social significance as a result of the attitudes to property and ownership distinctive to the Highlands and the Islands, which stress communal decision making and mutual consent. This reflects historic patterns of property-holding, where property rights were used to reinforce traditional social bonds and there was little concept of outright ownership. Thus the local population derives part of its collective identity and sense of distinctiveness from the island and thereby the former herring station. This is despite the fact that they are not the legal owners of the island today.

5.5 Archaeological significance 5.5.1 What is archaeological significance Archaeological significance is the potential of a building or a site to yield evidence about past human activity. Physical remains of past human activity are often the primary source of evidence about the substance and evolution of places, and of the people and cultures that made them. Understanding and interpreting this evidence tends to be diminished in proportion to the extent of its removal or replacement 5.5.2 Archaeological significance of Tanera More There has now been extensive archaeological analysis of the above-ground remains of the Herring Station, the result of which have been professionally recorded and presented in formal reports. The extant fabric has been comprehensively recorded and the paving in the courtyard and south range has been scraped back. There remains, however, considerable overburden within the ranges that is as yet unexcavated. There consequently remains considerable potential for further archaeological investigation. - The area under the manager’s accommodation remains unexcavated; this is the most likely site for a brining tank of the kind constructed in the slightly earlier Isle Martin herring station. Excavation in this area could clarify

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whether remains of a tank survive, and whether there was originally a smokehouse compartment in the south end of this area. - There is the potential within the north range to clarify the dating of the internal partitions and to establish whether the decision to reduce the number of smokehouses was taken during the initial construction phase or at some point thereafter. - There is likely to be only low potential for recovery of archaeological objects from within the overburden, but it is possible that dated objects (such as coins) that might clarify the time at which changes occurred, might be recovered. - There is a need to understand better the adaptation for reuse and subsequent decay and collapse of the ancillary building to the north, and to establish when and how it was linked to the residential accommodation in the north end of the north range. - There is some evidence in the 1784 sale plan of Tigh an Quay of earlier structures being present in the Irish Park area immediately to the north of the Herring Station; there is therefore likely to be some potential to uncover their foundations in order to piece together the history of the site immediately prior to the construction of the Herring Station. - There may be some potential for uncovering pre-eighteenth-century structures, but the likelihood of significant finds must be assumed to be low in the absence of substantive evidence for earlier use of the site.

5.6 Grading of individual elements by significance 5.6.1 Methodology In the section that follows, the specific components of the fabric of the Tanera More Herring Station are graded into categories on the basis of the assessment of the various aspects of the site’s significance set out above. The categories used are set out in Table 2; they are specific to this conservation plan, but are based on international best practice. The three highest categories are informed by the definitions for A, B and C listed buildings in The Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas)(Scotland) Act 1997, noted in Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement: June 2016. Note 2.17; by the definitions for Grade I, II* and II listed buildings in The Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990; and by standard definitions of receptor value in Environmental Statement terms. Using this grading categories and the application of professional judgment, it is possible to assign distinct levels of significance to the various phases of the building’s construction identified by Addyman Archaeology during their archaeological building recording (February 2018) and shown in the plans in section 3.1 above. The general assignment of significance to the different phases has, however, been modified in certain areas where the integrity and relatively legibility of the different phases comes into conflict (for example, where mid-nineteenth or early twentieth- century adaptations of moderate interest in their own right compromise the early herring station fabric, which is, overall of much greater significance).

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Using this approach has yielded the assessments of relative significance set out below and illustrated in the plans and elevations that follow (Figure 18 to Figure 23).

Table 2 Table of categories of cultural significance and definitions (below).

Outstanding significance

An element of international importance, of ‘exceptional interest’, or a fine, intact or little- altered example of a particular period, style or type. It embodies the importance of the asset overall, or the element to which it is a part. It has rarity value, and very limited potential for substitution.

Considerable significance

An element of national importance, of ‘more than special interest’, or a good, largely intact or little altered example of a particular period, style or type. It contributes strongly to the importance of the asset overall, or the element to which it is a part. It has rarity value, and limited potential for substitution.

Moderate significance

An element of regional (the Highland Council area) or local importance, ‘of more than special interest’, or an element that contributes to, but is not a key element to the importance of asset overall, or the element to which it is a part. It may have been altered, but has some rarity value, and limited potential for substitution.

Neutral significance

An element which neither contributes to, nor detracts from the importance of the assets overall.

Negative

An element which detracts from the overall importance of other elements of the asset overall. The significance of the asset overall would be improved by the removal of this element.

5.6.2 Phases 1a and 1b: Fabric from the Original Herring Station Phases 1a and 1b relate to the original construction of the Herring Station and its subsequent use for processing locally-caught fish. Although there are at least two distinct phases of construction, their dating cannot be accurately differentiated and they may, at least in part, represent modifications made during or very shortly after the initial construction of the buildings. They are most unlikely to date from after c.1815, when the west coast herring fishery was already in serious decline. Both phases are equally closely implicated in the development of the Loch Broom fishery, and it is therefore difficult to meaningfully differentiate their relative levels of significance. Because of the high historical, architectural and design significance of the buildings as the only substantively intact standing remains of the nationally and

50 Tanera More – Conservation Statement internationally significant red herring fishery, the overall significance of this phase has been assessed as considerable. 5.6.3 Phases 2a and 2b: Decline of the Herring Station and Reuse Phases 2a and 2b can be associated with the period that followed the decline of the herring fishery and the reuse of the Tigh an Quay site for leisure and agricultural use. It is associated with substantial modifications to the original accommodation, which was almost certainly extended downwards (into the probable site of the brining tank) and across (into the northern ancillary building) at this time, with the associated infilling of the intervening courtyard to create an entrance and staircase hall. At around the same time, there was some infilling and modification of other parts of the Herring Station buildings. Construction during this phase that is essentially additive and adaptive to the manager’s accommodation constitutes valuable evidence of the modification of the site in response to its reuse as a larger residence for either leisure use by Meyrick Banks or for agricultural purposes. In this respect the changes reflect the broader socio-economic decline that took place across much of this area in the mid- to late- nineteenth century. Where this is the case, fabric from the phases has been assigned moderate significance. However, certain aspects of the nineteenth-century reuse of the Herring Station that do not clearly reflect the process of adaptation for residential use. The main area where this is the case is the extension of the northern ancillary building at an undetermined date. These and other similar elements have been assigned neutral significance. Finally, some fabric from these phases actively interferes with the functional legibility and architectural integrity of the buildings, especially in the areas of the original smokehouses. These components, notably the blocking of various original openings in the curing houses, have been assigned negative significance. 5.6.4 Phase 2c: The Fraser Darlings and Immediately After During the Fraser Darlings’ occupancy of Tigh an Quay, they engaged in considerable modification of the surviving fabric of the former Herring Station. Although of some associative historical significance, many of these changes interfere with the architectural integrity and legibility of the original buildings. Where the impact on the original fabric is minimal, these modifications have been assigned neutral significance. Where the additions are aesthetically or materially detrimental to the original fabric and its legibility, for example the pouring of cement screed into the southernmost compartment of the north range to convert it into a cow byre, they have been assigned negative significance. 5.6.5 Phase 3: Modern Additions and Modifications In the years after the Fraser Darlings left Tigh an Quay a number of generally utilitarian modifications and additions were made to the Herring Station complex. The most notable was the construction of a cottage at the north-west corner of the Herring Station, incorporating part of the wall from the former northern ancillary building but otherwise of entirely new construction. In addition, some lengths of wall and two lean-to shelters were constructed within the original Herring Station. All these modern components substantially compromise the aesthetic, architectural

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 51 and design integrity of the building, and interfere with the legibility of its historic layout. They have therefore been assigned negative significance.

Figure 18 Plan of Tanera More Herring Station showing cultural significance grading.

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Figure 19 Elevations of Tanera More Herring Station, walls at north-east and south- west of principal ranges, and surviving run of wall from the south side of the northern ancillary building, showing cultural significance grading.

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Figure 20 Interior elevations of the north east and west walls of the north range, Tanera More Herring Station showing cultural significance grading.

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Figure 21 Interior and exterior elevations of south wall of the north range of Tanera More Herring Station showing cultural significance grading.

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Figure 22 Elevations of exterior of north wall and internal face of south walls of accommodation area, northern ancillary building, and interstitial infill of Tanera More Herring Station showing cultural significance grading.

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Figure 23 Elevations of interior and exterior faces of south wall of south range of Tanera More Herring Station showing cultural significance grading.

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6.0 CONSERVATION ISSUES There are a variety of issues that threaten the significance of Tanera More. 6.1.1 The status quo The greatest threat is the continuation of the status quo. The site and its buildings are in a state of dereliction and ruin with no current use. They are vulnerable to damage, largely from continued exposure to the elements. There is no protection or maintenance of the historic structure, and its roofless state – with the exception of the cottage – means that the structure is in a state of continuous decline. There is active continued fabric loss and thus permanent destruction of elements of cultural significance. 6.1.2 Materials There are materials issues which threaten the structures. Although at the time of writing no formal condition report is available, it is clear that many of the walls are in structurally poor condition. Though historically all walls were of traditional lime- bonded masonry construction, in many cases, the mortar has been washed out of the wall core. There are also areas of missing masonry, hungry joints, and loss of mortar and pinning stones. There are many timber safe lintels which are in parlous condition. Many walls have partially collapsed or lost their uppermost courses. There are some elements where inappropriate historic alterations, changes and repairs have negatively affected significance, for example concrete floor and wall surfaces, the addition of the dry-stone cross wall in the courtyard (AA feature 145) and the construction of the cottage. 6.1.3 Risk from inappropriate change This conservation statement has been commissioned as part of a process which includes proposal to convert the buildings back into use, and thus to re-roof them. This would rectify the major threat to the significance of the site. However, the proposal themselves contain inherent threats to the significance of a site, as it is possible that an inappropriate or poorly-designed conversion, could negatively affect the asset.

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7.0 CONSERVATION RECOMMENDATIONS AND POLICIES 7.1 Introduction The aim of this conservation statement is to inform the process of change at the former herring station on the basis of conservation best-practice. The policies in this section are intended to address the general threats to significance identified in the previous section. They are intended to inform the devising of future plans for the use, management and sustaining of the site, and its associated buildings and structures, in accordance with the assessed levels of significance. The former herring station is a site of considerable cultural significance overall. It is stated in Scottish Planning Policy that sites such as that on Tanera More should be ‘protected, conserved or enhanced’. This should be by the implementation of appropriate conservation policies based upon recognised best practice. Conservation is a specific heritage term. It is defined in the National Planning Policy Framework (2012), which while only directly applicable in England, reflects the understanding of this term in Scotland: The process of maintaining and managing change to a heritage asset in a way that sustains and, where appropriate, enhances its significance.47 Adoption and implementation of the policies by the owners of the former herring station, its managers, tenants/partners and other users of the building will enable the retention and enhancement of its significance for the future.

7.2 Key principles to guide change The understanding of the cultural-heritage significance of the site and its components presented in this conservation statement should inform the following broad aims. These key principles are intended to sustain, reveal and better enhance the asset and its component parts, in line with national and local policy: − Resolve to be conservation-led, to ensure that the principle of informed conservation is the key consideration in the future of this site. − Preserve and conserve all the historic elements of the site that contribute to its significance, in line with their assessed levels of significance. − Actively conserve, enhance and interpret the site in an informed way, ensuring it has a productive and sustainable use, and will continue to be an established and valued part of the Scottish historic environment. − Employ appropriately experienced and qualified professionals to design, manage, record and effect change, at all stages. − Provide adequate resources for the long-term upkeep and maintenance of the site.

47 National Planning Policy Framework, Annex 2: Glossary (Department of Communities and Local Government, 2012). p. 51

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These key principles should be adopted by all parties, based on a sound understanding of the significance of the site.

7.3 How the grading of significance guides change In the assessment of significance, the different elements of the site, its buildings and structures have been graded with different levels of significance. The more significant the element, the more resources, effort and care are required to conserve it. Also, it is usually the case that the most significant elements should be changed the least (those of considerable significance). Equally, the less significant elements can be changed most (those of moderate and neutral significance), and those that negatively affect other element should be removed or altered, as this would benefit other elements of the site. This is in line with government policy as set out in the Scottish planning policy. This section sets policies that accompany the categories of significance in the assessment of significance section of this conservation statement. There is a sliding scale of what general actions can and should be taken for all elements outlined in Table 3. This is applied to the elements of the site in Table 4. In this table, it will be noted, not all elements of the same significance have the same required action, as professional judgement has been exercised to establish relative priorities. In principle, all decision-making concerning this asset and its component parts should be guided by the assessed levels of significance set out in this conservation plan. 7.3.1 Significance of fabric It is important that the significance of the former herring station, of its components and of its setting, is preserved, protected and enhanced where possible in future use and management of the site. The ‘considerable’ overall cultural significance of the site and its buildings does not mean that changes cannot be made for good reason. However, changes must be based on sound understanding and balancing of the different areas of significance as expressed in this assessment. 7.3.2 Elements of outstanding significance There are no elements of outstanding significance. 7.3.3 Elements of considerable significance Policy 1 – Elements of considerable significance Elements of the former herring station identified as being of considerable significance should be preserved, protected and enhanced as much as possible. These parts may only be conserved and repaired, with the minimum of change or alteration, to sustain new use. Changes must be considered with great care and in an appropriate manner, consistent with their significance. These elements, shaded in orange, include most of the phase 1 masonry walls of the buildings identified by Addyman Archaeology.

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Table 3 Table of categories of cultural significance and general requirements (below).

Requirement Requirement for Amount of Desirability to preserve, archaeological change that is of protect and recording/understanding possible restoration enhance if change is proposed

Outstanding Presumption of significance Highest Highest, if no change: requirement, original form High-level of detail (NB: no conserve and care and effort is known elements are restore outstanding)

Presumption of minimal High change, but High, if Considerable requirement, some may be original form High-level of detail significance care and effort required: is known conserve and restore

Depends on Medium, if level of survival original form Detail will vary Middle or amount of Moderate is known or depending on survival requirement, previous significance can be and level of change care and effort change that has astutely proposed already reconstructed occurred

High possibility: change may or Low, Neutral Low may not depending Low level of detail likely significance requirement happen, but on element enhancement is preferred

No requirement: Presumption Possibility but may be Presumption of Negative remove/alter of positive required by Local positive change where change Planning Authority possible

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Table 4 Table of strategic actions for each graded aspect of the asset. Unit of former herring Significance station grading

Fabric from the Sustain, reveal and enhance to a high degree, with original Herring high requirement for care and effort. Presumption of Station (Phases 1a and minimal change, maximum conservation and 1b) that documents its restoration, and high level of archaeological Considerable initial construction and recording. early use as an industrial fishing station

Fabric from the period Sustain, reveal and enhance to middle degree, care of decline of the and effort. Presumption of some change, some Herring Station and conservation and restoration, and high level of reuse (Phases 2a and archaeological recording. 2b) that reflects Moderate adaptation to new use but which does not compromise the integrity of the original fabric

Fabric from the period High degree of possibility for change, and low of decline of the requirement for recording. Herring Station and reuse (Phases 2a and 2b) that does not Neutral compromise the integrity of the original fabric but offers little insight into its reuse.

Fabric from the Fraser High degree of possibility for change, and low Darling occupancy requirement for recording. (Phase 2c), with some historical associative Neutral value and with minimal impact on the original fabric

Fabric from the period Presumption of positive change to improve of decline of the significance of the site and its elements. No Herring Station and recording required reuse (Phases 2a and 2b) with little historical Negative associative value, but which does not compromise the integrity of the original fabric

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Unit of former herring Significance station grading

Fabric from the Fraser Presumption of positive change to improve Darling occupancy significance of the site and its elements. No (Phase 2c), with at recording required most some historical Negative associative value but which compromises the integrity and/or legibility original fabric

Modern additions and Presumption of positive change to improve modifications (Phase 3) significance of the site and its elements. No that compromise the recording required aesthetic, architectural, Negative and design integrity of the historic buildings, or which interfere with their legibility

7.3.4 Elements of moderate significance Policy 2 – Elements of moderate significance Elements of the former herring station identified as being of moderate significance should, where possible be preserved, protected and enhanced as much as possible. These elements may be changed, altered or removed altogether if a justifiable case can be propounded. Such a case will depend on a balance of various factors including the amount of survival and condition of the historic fabric, the level of previous alterations, and the beneficial effects of such change on the wider conservation and economic sustainability issues for elements deemed to be of greater significance. These elements, shaded in yellow, include a considerable proportion of the elements of phase 2 identified by Addyman Archaeology. 7.3.5 Elements of neutral significance Policy 3 – Elements of neutral significance Elements of the former herring station identified as being of neutral significance may be removed, altered or retained as required. These elements, shaded in blue, include, some of the elements of phase 2 identified by Addyman Archaeology. 7.3.6 Elements negative to significance Policy 4 – Elements negative to significance Elements negative to the significance of the former herring station, its buildings and structures should be removed or radically altered. These elements, shaded in mauve, include some of the elements of phase 2 and all of phase 3 identified by Addyman Archaeology.

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While the above policies, based on the assessment of significance, help to identify where change may be appropriate, there should nonetheless be a presumption against undue change and alteration. A careful balance needs to be struck between making changes and maintaining the status quo. The impact of all proposed changes should be considered carefully using a heritage- impact assessment method; the significance of the element intended to change should be identified, using the significance assessment in this cultural-heritage assessment, and the impact of the proposed change on its significance assessed. All changes to physical fabric should be archaeologically recorded, but a proportionate response to individual elements may be followed, where elements of high significance are recorded in greater detail than those of lower significance. Recording should be instructed by the owners and is likely to be a condition of Listed Building Consent from the Local Planning Authority.

7.4 Conservation theory and practice The theory of building conservation is well established in Britain, with a history extending back over 200 years. There is considerable experience of the application of conservation theory and practice within the relevant statutory body, Historic Environment Scotland. Policy 5 – Conservation theory and practice Follow established conservation practice in any work to conserve or make alterations to the building, summarised below. The following best practice conservation guidelines should apply when planning change to fabric at the former herring station: − Consult suitably qualified, experienced and competent professional conservation advice in the process of planning and designing change. Professionals include architects, structural engineers, archaeologists, project managers etc. who specialise in the historic environment. − Use contractors with suitable, competent, and significant historic environment experience, as inexperienced workmanship can cause irreversible damage to historic fabric. Appropriate professional or craft skills and experience are essential in all work, including inspection, maintenance and repairs. − In general, all work should be carried out in accordance with the British Standard Guide BS 7913:2013 Guide to the conservation of historic buildings. − Minimum intervention – wherever possible, there should be a presumption in favour of retaining and conserving all significant components of the site. Remove or change as little as possible of what is there, introduce or change only where necessary to protect, sustain, reveal, conserve or enhance the significance of the site or its physical fabric. − Reversible change – wherever possible, any work carried out should be capable of subsequently being undone without lasting damage or negative impact on significance.

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− Priority should be given to repairing existing fabric rather than replacing it. There should be a presumption against removing material from the site, unless the material being removed constitutes an element with intrusive or negative impact on significance. − Repair should use like-for-like techniques and materials. Materials should be salvaged and re-used on site where possible. Except in exceptional cases, new, traditional materials should be used, rather than materials salvaged from other sites. − Repairs and new work should not be visually intrusive, should be of simple, high-quality, contemporary or complementary design. Facsimile work should only be used where there is indisputable, accurate evidence of an appropriate earlier design. It should be identifiable as new work. − Targeted historical and archaeological research, investigative opening-up, recording and sampling should be carried out before and during work to inform the best design and technical solutions. − Particular attention should be paid to matters of detail to help preserve and enhance the significance of the fabric and its special character, including, for example, specific choice of materials, detailed location of services, and methods of fixing. The location of all service runs, pipework and cables is likely to require different approaches to detailing. For example, in some places it will be better to conceal a cable, and others to mount it on the surface; whereas in others, no service run, pipework or cable is appropriate, for example in areas of considerable significance. − Fabric or spaces to be replaced, altered or removed should be archaeologically recorded in accordance with relevant guidelines and the record lodged in a public archive. − Elements that present threat, risk or are harmful to historic fabric may be removed. − Detailed design development should precede implementation of all on-site works. − All changes should be subject to a documented process of options analysis, including assessments of impact on cultural significance by the architect. − These standards must be applied as consistently as possible throughout the historic asset. − Deviations from this best-practice list could result in irreversible harm to elements of cultural significance and the historic asset as a whole. This is a comprehensive policy which is intended to protect the cultural significance of the former herring station from risk associated with a non-conservation-led approach. It sets out the theory to be followed when considering changes and can broadly be applied to management decisions as well as repair and conservation work. The policy contains recognised conservation principles and is the basis for works to historic fabric and spaces, but it should be sufficiently flexible to achieve the necessary balance between protecting the significance of the buildings and ensuring the future sustainability of the site.

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7.5 Statutory and non-statutory constraints and buildings standards 7.5.1 Scottish Planning Policy 2014 (SPP) The Scottish Planning Policy (2014) includes an explicit recognition of the need for informed conservation, to understand the significance of historic sites and the potential impacts that any proposed development might have. It also emphasises the need to ‘enable positive change in the historic environment’ based on well-informed understanding.48 7.5.2 Highland Council – Planning and Listed Building Consent Any work which affects the character of a listed building or structure will require listed building consent. The former herring station is a category-B listed building; statutory protection applies to all features, even those that this conservation statement categorises as being of neutral significance and negative. Listed Building Consent from Highland Council will be required prior to any programme conservation and alteration works. Although it may not answer specific questions raised as part of Listed Building Consent applications, the conservation plan should be used as a tool to assist in this process.49 All proposals for change should comply with the Local Development Plan. 7.5.3 Historic Environment Scotland – statutory consultee Historic Environment Scotland is a statutory consultee in applications for listed building consent for works on category A and B Listed buildings.50 It provides comment and recommendations on applications for changes to these buildings to the LPA (Highland Council), and guidance on whether to grant or to refuse an application. HES routinely comments only on applications for change to A-listed buildings. However, it reserves its right to object to an application for applications where ‘national importance’ is at risk. As this conservation statement has concluded that the former herring station is of considerable significance overall, encompassing national importance, it is expected that HES would choose to make recommendations to the LPA when an application for LBC is made. Policy 6 – Statutory and non-statutory constraints All change to the buildings should be in line with national and local policy and guidance. 7.5.4 Non-statutory groups in the planning process Non-statutory organisations relevant to the process of change at the former herring station include the Architectural Heritage Society of Scotland. It is important to maintain a good working relationship with non-statutory bodies, to consult them and enable them to comment on proposals for change.

48 Scottish Ministers Scottish planning policy (Scottish Government: 2014). Policy 137, p.33 49 The professional area of the Historic Environment Scotland website provides useful guidance and advice on listed buildings. 50 Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement: June 2016. Annex 8, paragraph 5, p.64

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7.6 Conservation and restoration Policy 7 – Conservation and restoration of the former herring station Conserve the remaining fabric of the former herring station to preserve, protect and enhance significance. Take a strategic decision to restore it, if restoration will preserve, protect and further enhance significance. Undertake restoration only where there is sufficient evidence of original design, or where the design of the restoration is guided by historic principles. The British Standard guide to the conservation of historic buildings 1998 (BS 7913: 1998), now superseded by the 2013 edition (BS 7913: 2013), defines the terms as follows: Conservation: Action to secure the survival or preservation of buildings, cultural artefacts, natural resources, energy or any other thing of acknowledged value for the future. Note: Where buildings or artefacts are involved, such actions should avoid significant loss of authenticity or essential qualities. … Restoration: Alteration of a building, part of a building or artefact which has decayed, been lost or damaged or is thought to have been inappropriately repaired or altered in the past, the objective of which is to make it conform again to its design or appearance at a previous date. Note: The accuracy of any restoration depends on the extent to which the original design or appearance at a previous date is known, or can be established by research.51 In conservation terms, restoration in general can be justified where putting back lost elements would enhance the significance of an element of a design identified as being significant. Restoration must have a purpose which goes beyond simply a desire to improve a dilapidated appearance; in line with the aspirations of Historic Environment Scotland expressed in Policy statement 1, all restoration should have the intention to protect and enhance the asset, and the historic environment more widely.52 Where there is limited evidence of original form of a building or its details, the design of a restoration can be guided by historic principles. Restoration should not negatively impact aspects of significance, and can also be appropriate if it would prevent continued loss of significance (i.e. loss or damage to extant historic fabric). At Tanera More, the former herring station has been identified as being in a state of decline, and action is required to preserve what historic fabric remains. There is a sliding scale of conservation and restoration options which range from consolidating the ruin as it exists, to reconstruction of a fully-roofed building. The cost of future maintenance of the building is an important factor in considering options for conservation. In summary, the more ruinous it remains, the higher the cost of maintaining the significant historic fabric. This is the case even in the case of a

51 The British Standard guide to the conservation of historic buildings (BS 7913: 1998). para 4.3 and 4.17 52 Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement: June 2016. para. 1.8

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 67 consolidated ruin, which needs maintenance in the years following consolidation. It is probably fair to conclude that the most cost-effective option in terms of future maintenance costs is the option that caps all wallheads with a permanent roof. This would achieve the objective of preserving and protecting the asset because, in principle, the walls and other elements that are slowly collapsing or degrading would have to be consolidated or rebuilt, and a roof would protect the structure from the effects of the weather. However, there is scant evidence of the original or early appearance of the building and the design would need to be well-informed by evidence from comparative industrial sites. Any degree of restoring the building to a habitable state would create potential for a new use that could generate some funds for its maintenance and, probably, a basic level of background heating. On the other hand, this is the most expensive option upfront in terms of consolidation. It is however possible to envisage a partial restoration of some parts of the building, with the remainder consolidated as a ruin. 7.6.1 Option A – Consolidation Consolidate the ruin as existing, with full repairs and conservation. Include archaeological excavation of interiors, clearance of debris, necessary structural work, and soft-capping of wallheads. Enable public access and some interpretation. There are many examples of this option being followed in major castles, including Penicuik House (Midlothian), and in smaller ruins, for example of brochs. Table 5 Table showing limitations and benefits for option A.

Limitations Benefits

Does not enhance significant fabric of Preserves and protects significant fabric of historic asset historic asset

Maintenance costs will be the highest of all Safe public access to ruin enabled options

Not economically sustainable in long term Does not introduce potentially speculative (maintenance costs will not be supported reconstructed elements by any income)

7.6.2 Option B - Partial restoration Restore the existing fabric in part only, for example the accommodation area at the north end of the building only. This could be for a variety of domestic uses. For the remainder of the ruin, consolidate as existing, with full repairs and conservation. Include archaeological excavation of interiors, clearance of debris, necessary structural work, and soft-capping of wallheads. It is possible to envisage a design where the ruinous and consolidated elements co-existed in the same area, perhaps with a new structure to support a roof, over-sailing soft-capped wallheads. Enable public access and some interpretation.

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Table 6 Table showing limitations and benefits for option B.

Limitations Benefits

Only a slight enhancement of significant Preserves and protects significant fabric of fabric of historic asset historic asset

Maintenance costs will be high for elements Safe public access to ruin enabled that remain as consolidated ruin

Opportunity for high-quality architecture and design in interventions

Economically sustainable in long term (maintenance costs will be covered by owners)

7.6.3 Option C – Full restoration Restore the building in full, with historic wallhead height restored and all roofs re- instated. Limited evidence of the early appearance of the herring station means that the design of reinstated areas and features would need to be based on careful study of the existing fabric, early photographs showing the building when still in a more complete state of preservation, and on comparative evidence from other industrial buildings of the period. Interiors could be designed in an historical or contemporary style. Table 7 Table showing limitations and benefits for option C.

Limitations Benefits

Most expensive option to implement Protects and enhances significance of historic asset

Most complex option to implement in design Safe public access to building terms

Reconstruction of historic appearance will in Opportunity for high-quality architecture part be speculative and design in new interiors

Economically sustainable in long term (maintenance costs will be covered by owners)

Most sustainable maintenance costs

7.6.4 Summary It is clear that any conservation to restore the ruin will necessitate considerable investment. A restoration solution that provides sustainable long-term income will be preferable to one that does not. The options presented above, represent a sliding scale of restoration options which are assessed as increasing in initial cost to achieve (C being the most expensive), but

Tanera More – Conservation Statement 69 also resulting in increased conservation benefit and long-term economic sustainability.

7.7 Designing for restoration 7.7.1 General principles for design of new work This conservation plan is primarily concerned with the conservation, restoration and repair of the former herring station. However, alterations, interventions and some extensions may be necessary for its sustainable use and this section provides guidance on how to approach such works. The design of new work in historic settings requires particular architectural knowledge, judgement, skill and care. There will be many appropriate ways of designing new buildings, but a set of standard criteria can be applied: 7.7.2 Principles The design of interventions in close association with existing fabric of cultural significance requires particular architectural knowledge, judgment, skill and care. The design of elements, where justifiable, should achieve the following objectives: − Design should comply with the guidelines noted in the previous sections concerning repairs. − Interventions or additions should not negatively impact upon elements of considerable or moderate significance. Interventions throughout a building should have a common character so that they can be interpreted as being part of a single datable campaign of alteration, and records should be kept of all works undertaken. − Interventions should, be clearly identifiable as such, both physically, by marking the intervention (possibly by a date), and by documenting the construction and alteration process. − Alterations should be designed to avoid damage to the existing fabric wherever possible. There should be a presumption to retain historic fabric where possible in all alterations. − The interface between a new element and the existing fabric must be carefully considered to avoid damage to the existing building, for instance by differential erosion or by damage at fixing points. − An extension or new building should not mask or dominate the existing historic asset, in fabric or visual terms. − New work should be of appropriate design quality and should complement existing structures. − The fabric should be recorded archaeologically before the work is carried out. − Historic features should be re-used where possible in alterations or recycled. − The work should be designed so that it can be carried out without risk to historic fabric; consideration must also be given to safety issues arising from the continued maintenance of the building. − New services should be designed so that their installation and maintenance causes minimal damage to historic fabric. This is particularly the case in the introduction of services; surface-mounting of services is preferable, re-using existing chases, or using existing voids, for example chimney flues and behind

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skirtings. This is necessary in elements of outstanding, considerable and moderate significance. − The Local Development Plan will include design principles which should be followed in the design of interventions, alterations and extensions. − It is possible to successfully detail extensions to relate to original fabric. This could be either in size of features or elements, position, height, or by lining through horizontally with existing openings, but with architectural expression which is contemporary, for example. The architectural response which is least likely to be acceptable is a design which involves an approximation of historic detailing without an understanding of its purpose or construction. − Natural materials of high quality should be used in preference to composite materials. − A materials palette should be derived from the significant historic structures on site. This should include: − Rubble stone, to match existing, harled or limewashed; − Tooled stone dressings, to match existing; − Lime mortar, wash and harl, either to match existing or improve on its material properties; − Slate roofs with mortared details; − Painted timber windows and doors. − This does not exclude materials commonly used in contemporary design such as timber cladding and glazing. − Poor-quality or unsympathetic materials should not be used, such as cast or reconstituted stone, reconstituted slate, concrete tiles, UPVC gutters or windows. The detailing of new work will depend on the materials chosen. Detailing of traditional materials should in most cases conform to traditional practice; in contrast, more contemporary materials can adopt contemporary detailing practice. 7.7.3 Historic Environment Scotland published guidance and advice Historic Environment Scotland has published considerable amounts of guidance to assist in the conservation and restoration of all aspects of the built environment in Scotland. These range from highly technical reports, papers and guidance on specific building techniques and architectural design, to more general strategic guidance for historic assets. They are divided into series, of which the following are the most relevant: − INFORM Guide (55 pamphlets) – high level and general guidance − Technical Advice Notes (26 booklets) − Short Guide (14 booklets) − Guides for Practitioners (10 booklets) − Technical Paper (27 booklets)

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− Research and Study Report (4 booklets)

All publications are available for searching and downloading (and in some cases purchasing) from the HES website.53 This corpus of published guidance is a vital resource that should be relied upon in managing the process of change at the former herring station. 7.7.4 Historic Environment Scotland standard guidance HES has prepared a set of Advisory standards of conservation and repair for the historic building environment in Scotland. The paper is included in full in appendix 10.0 below. This is an unpublished paper, but available on the HES website.54 The paper is a general paper concerning conservation and repair of all historic building types, and therefore not all sections are relevant. It sets out the standard that HES expects to be followed in conservation and repair projects and should be followed as a guide. 7.7.5 Complying with Building Regulations The Building Regulations 2010, and all subsequent amendments, define the performance criteria that a building should achieve, such as the required energy efficiency performance and level of resistance to the spread of fire. The legislation is designed to ensure that new buildings and works achieve the objectives of the Act in terms of health, safety, welfare, convenience, conservation of fuel and power, and sustainable development. However, regulations always apply where construction occurs, except for a small number of exemptions. The definition of construction is such that it includes alterations and extensions to existing and historic buildings. It is necessary to submit detailed proposals for works for checking and approval prior to commencing any works. Consent to proceed with works is signified by the issue of a Building Warrant. A Building Warrant is therefore required before the start of any work on site. It will be necessary to work closely with building control from an early stage in design development to ensure that historic-building elements are taken into account in the warrant process. Applications should be lodged as early as possible to allow for discussion and possible adjustments to technical details. Policy 8 – Complying with best practice in design Follow best-practice conservation design principles for alterations to the former herring station, including HES standard guidance. All changes should comply with Building Standards.

53 https://www.historicenvironment.scot/archives-and-research/publications/ accessed September 2018 54 See https://www.historicenvironment.scot/media/4068/advisory-standards-repair.pdf accessed September 2018.

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7.8 Interpretation The former herring station has an interesting story of national significance. This story contributes greatly to its cultural significance. Through interpretation, significance can be conveyed and explained. Interpretation should be provided of the history and significance of the site. This could be, for example, in the form of unobtrusive interpretation panels, a printed pamphlet, a website, or Wikipedia page. This would also provide a certain amount of remote access for people who are unable to visit the building, and wider public benefit. A digital or virtual ‘tour’ of the building, on a website, could also be considered. It should also be considered whether, if the building were restored, it could be open to the visiting public on a few days a year; for example, it could be included on the Architectural Heritage Society of Scotland’s annual ‘Doors Open Day’. Policy 9 – Interpretation Interpret the significance of the former herring station for public benefit.

7.9 Archaeological recording & further research Archaeology in this case is not limited to below-ground archaeology, and applies to the fabric of the standing building. Though the former herring station has already been archaeologically recorded to a high level of detail, there are many areas of the physical fabric that remain to be investigated in full. These are primarily below ground within the footprint of the buildings. Therefore, opportunities for recording and understanding of the physical fabric of the building, and its physical and documentary evidence, need to be considered as part of its overall conservation. Building recording ensures that an accurate record of the historical development of the building is kept for the future. Policy 10 – Building Recording Building recording should take place in advance of and during repairs and alterations to the building. A programme of building recording should be developed with Highland Council archaeology service and in consultation with Historic Environment Scotland. Despite the archaeology works completed to date, it is possible that, prior to any development works commencing, Highland Council may require approval of a methodology for recording in an archaeological Written Scheme of Investigation. Policy 11 – Archaeological Findings The results of any archaeological involvement required by the planning permission and Listed Building Consent must be presented to Highland Council through the completion of a Data Structure Report, outlining the project’s findings. Any new information obtained from further archaeological recording, and primary source research should be used to inform ongoing management of the building and to update this conservation plan as appropriate.

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Policy 12 – Further Research Further research should be undertaken on the building as opportunities arise, and such opportunities should be encouraged by the owners.

7.10 Repair works and maintenance 7.10.1 Inspection and maintenance Regular maintenance is required to maintain the former herring station in good repair, particularly at wallhead level. This is regardless of whether or not the building is restored to use. An annual sum should be set aside for inspection and maintenance purposes, and an allowance made for inflation. Every building and site needs regular maintenance to keep wearing and weathering surfaces in good order and to protect vulnerable internal fabric from damage consequent to their failure. Systematic care based on good maintenance and housekeeping is both cost-effective and fundamental to good conservation. Early action can often prevent decay and avoid the need for major repair later. This is particularly the case with a standing ruin. Policy 13 – Inspection Regular inspections for condition and maintenance requirements should be made to the building. A maintenance regime should be prepared by a conservation- accredited professional. The regime should be formally adopted as part of the overall management strategy for the building by both the owners and the people responsible for the management of the building. 7.10.2 Regular inspection and strategic planning of repairs A quinquennial (five-yearly) cycle of inspection should begin and the reporting should list works according to categories of urgency. The categories should be ‘immediate’, ‘urgent’, ‘necessary’ and ‘desirable’. Immediate works relate to issues causing actual harm to the building fabric, and require attention as soon as possible to prevent further damage. Urgent work should be carried out within one year of the date of inspection. Necessary works relate to issues that, while not causing actual damage, may become urgent within five years and should be addressed before this period has elapsed. Desirable works are repairs of a long-term nature and other works, for example restoration of the original appearance of a building.

Policy 14 – Condition Assessment and Structural Survey Commission a condition assessment and structural survey of the standing fabric. It is inevitable that investment will need to be prioritised, and not all immediate or urgent actions will be possible within a set budget. It is essential as part of the ongoing management of the building to develop a maintenance plan for the site. Ongoing appropriate maintenance will prevent further decay of building fabric. Policy 15 – Maintenance Plan A maintenance plan should be prepared. The maintenance plan should be agreed with the owner and management of the site and implemented by maintenance staff or by specialist contractors as required.

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Policy 16 – Business Planning All business decisions for the former herring station should take into account conservation issues, conservation plan policies and future repair liabilities.

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8.0 APPENDIX – BIBLIOGRAPHY 8.1 Printed Works Addyman Archaeology Tanera Mor, Summer Isles, Achiltibuie, Highland. Herring station and graveyard - Historic Building Survey : December 2017 for Summer Isle Enterprises Ltd. February 2018 British Standards Institute, The British Standard guide to the conservation of historic buildings (BS 7913: 1998). Caledonian Mercury, 7 Sept 1805 and 21 June 1813 Dagg, C. 2017. Tanera Mor Curing Station. Unpublished report. Mackenzie, A., History of the Mackenzies with Genealogies of the Principal Families of the Name (Inverness: A. & W. Mackenzie, 1894) Munro, J., ‘Ullapool and the British Fisheries Society’, in J.R. Baldwin (ed.), People and Settlement in North-West Ross (Edinburgh: The Scottish Society for Northern Studies, 1994), pp. 244-269 North of Scotland Archaeological Society 2017. Report (incomplete) of an Archaeological Survey of the Island of Tanera Mor by members of NOSAS – Saturday, 20th October 2007. Unpublished report available from http://s3.spanglefish.com/s/12654/documents/site%20records/tanera- 2007-report-final.pdf Historic Environment Scotland, Historic Environment Scotland Policy Statement: June 2016 (HES: 2016) Historic Environment Scotland, Managing change in the historic environment: setting (2016) Historic Environment Scotland, Advisory Standards of Conservation and Repair for the Historic Building Environment in Scotland (2018) https://www.historicenvironment.scot/media/4068/advisory-standards- repair.pdf House of Commons, Reports from the Committees of the House of Commons, vol. 10 Miscellaneous Subjects 1785-1801 (London, 1803) Knox, J., A Tour through the Highlands of Scotland, and the Hebride Isles (London: J. Walter, R. Faulder, W. Gordon and C. Elliot, Dunlop and Wilson, 1787) Marquis-Kyle P. & Walker M. The illustrated Burra Charter: good practice for heritage places (Australia ICOMOS: 2004). Oxford Dictionary of National Biography Scottish Ministers, Scottish planning policy (Edinburgh: Scottish Government, 2014) Sinclair, Sir J., The Statistical Account of Scotland, Lochbroom, Ross and Cromarty, Vol. 10, Edinburgh: William Creech, 1794, p. 473. Available online from the University of Edinburgh, University of Glasgow (1999), ‘The Statistical Accounts of Scotland 1791-1845’ online service: http://stataccscot.edina.ac.uk/link/osa-vol10-p473-parish- ross_and_cromarty-lochbroom

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Toogood, ‘Ecology and the West Highland Survey, 1944-1955’ [draft], http://www.academia.edu/18029106/Ecology_and_the_Total_Landscape_ The_West_Highland_Survey_1944-1955_draft; final version in: Spatializing the History of Ecology: Sites, Journeys, Mappings. Routledge Studies in the History of Science, Technology and Medicine (29). Routledge, New York, pp. 99-118. The Highland Council, Highland Wide Local Development Plan (April 2012) UK Government, National Planning Policy Framework, Annex 2: Glossary (Department of Communities and Local Government, 2012)

8.2 Websites Consulted https://her.highland.gov.uk/ https://www.highland.gov.uk/directory_record/712042/historic_environment_stra tegy/category/473/conservation https://www.historicenvironment.scot/advice-and-support/listing-scheduling-and- designations/listed-buildings/what-is-listing/#categories-of-listed- building_tabhttps://www.historicenvironment.scot/advice-and-support/listing- scheduling-and-designations/listed-buildings/what-is-listing/#categories-of-listed- building_tab https://www.historicenvironment.scot/archives-and-research/publications/ http://www.legislation.gov.uk/apgb/Geo3/11/31/1993-11-05?view=plain

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10.0 APPENDIX – HES ‘ADVISORY STANDARDS OF CONSERVATION’

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11.0 APPENDIX – ILLUSTRATIONS AT A3

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