Northern

Ins iders’ gu Broads ide These enchanting waterways have it all: lock-free navigation, riverside villages and pubs, plenty of moorings and an abundance of wildlife report by richard Johnstone-bryden heltered waters, combined the and Suffolk Broads. 1970s these qualities had been with an idyllic rural scenery These enchanting waterways were overshadowed by large numbers of of windmills, pretty thatched ‘discovered’ in the late 19th century by hireboats charging from one end of the S cottages, marshes, meadows, wealthy Victorians who were drawn to network to the other at a rate of knots. riverside villages, and tree-lined rivers The entrance to the River the area by the prospect of exchanging However, due to the hire industry’s have attracted generations of Bure is spanned by their hectic city lifestyle for the slower dramatic contraction in recent years, the holidaymakers to the northern rivers of Vauxhall Bridge pace of the countryside. By the late Broads are once more regaining much of the magic and tranquillity that attracted those original holidaymakers. The 125 miles of lock-free navigable rivers and lakes that make up the network are essentially split into two halves. The northern zone comprises the rivers Bure, Thurne and Ant while the southern zone is made up of the rivers Yare, Chet, Wensum and Waveney. The two areas are linked by a four-mile stretch of open water known as Breydon Water. Despite their natural appearance, the lakes, known as broads, are man-made,

60 l January 09 mbmclub.com insiders’ guide Northern broads

the product of medieval peat digging. On many of them you can simply drop anchor or, preferably, a mud weight and watch the world go by, or better still, enjoy a fantastic sunset courtesy of the region’s vast open skies. The River Bure The most direct route for coastal visitors to join the northern Broadland rivers is via . As a commercial port, Great Yarmouth is geared towards the requirements of larger vessels and only has limited moorings for pleasure craft. Therefore, the port itself should only be considered as a point of entry are packed Great Yarmouth the stronger the tides. to the Broads rather than a destination. with wildlfe from swans Like the other rivers of the Broads the The entrance to the River Bure is and moorhens to rare River Bure is covered by a set of speed spanned by Vauxhall Bridge and the dragonflies and butterflies limits ranging from 3mph to 6mph that Acle Road Bridge. The lower of the two are clearly marked by signs along the bridges can only be used by boats riverbank and apply to all powered with an air draught of less than 6ft 9in Don’t craft. These limits are rigorously at high water. However, both bridges forget enforced and breaking them could do have a gauge that indicates the “ result in a significant fine. available air draught, so if you time as you Great Yarmouth Yacht Station is your passage carefully it is possible for located upstream of the Acle Road craft with an air draught of up to 12ft approach Bridge. It’s operated by the Broads to pass under the bridges on low Authority (BA) on behalf of the local water springs. or leave council from Easter to the end of As you approach or leave Great Great October and provides the best option Yarmouth don’t forget that the rivers for those wanting to visit the town. are tidal. This might be stating the Yarmouth Even though Great Yarmouth is obvious, but many first time visitors the rivers experiencing a period of regeneration, The Bridge Inn pub and its to the Broads do not appreciate this there is still much work to be done for moorings, near Acle Bridge fact and it comes as an unpleasant are tidal waterborne visitors, such as on the River Bure surprise. As a rule, the closer you get to ” refurbishing the town’s shabby >>

mbmclub.com January 09 l 61 The Broads are Britain’s largest protected quays along the Bure. Equally, the Picturesque views on the important to give the the river that skippers are lower Bure wetland and home construction of new facilities between barges a wide berth, to a wealth of asked to avoid using Haven Bridge and Breydon Bridge especially if under tow. before 10am on a Sunday would help to significantly boost the Flowing through open wildlife morning from 16 June to port’s appeal to boaters. Mooring is marshland, this section of the 31 October. If a spot of fishing forbidden at the Yacht Station when it is Bure can feel quite desolate at times, sounds tempting don’t forget to closed during the winter months. especially in winter. As Great Yarmouth purchase a rod licence from the Before leaving the vicinity of the yacht fades into the distance the only Environment Agency beforehand and station it is a good idea to carefully landmarks on the horizon are a series of note that angling is forbidden on the consider your plans because there are redundant wind pumps, some of which Broads during the close season from 15 no safe moorings between the have been restored. March to 15 June inclusive. entrance to the Bure and Stracey Arms Those who want to take a closer look Mill, which is eight miles and at least at a Broadland mill can visit the Wroxham bound one and a half hours away under power. preserved Stracey Arms Drainage Mill If you continue on the Bure heading When navigating the lower reaches of during the summer months. However, if upstream towards Horning and the Bure it is important not to get too the thought of a pint is more tempting, Wroxham, the remnants of St Benet’s A sign marks the tiny village close to the insides of bends especially of Belaugh on the Bure keep going towards the pub at the Abbey will come into view a few on a falling tide because many of them nearby village of Stokesby. If these bends later. For those who want a closer have become increasingly shallow as a moorings are full there is another pub, look there are good public moorings result of silting up. Some of the worst The Bridge Inn, by Acle Bridge, as well upriver of the abbey. It was founded by bends have painted stakes clearly as a shop selling provisions. King Canute as a Benedictine Order in marking the extent of projecting mud The reed-lined river between Acle 1020 on the site of the original banks. Work is currently being carried bridge and Thurne Mouth is a popular monastery which was destroyed by the out along these stretches to renew local place with anglers and you will see a Vikings in 870. flood defences. These activities involve number of small stagings which are The abbey was progressively the use of several large barges, which only for the use of fishermen. In an dismantled following the dissolution of you are likely to encounter around the attempt to reduce the tensions the monasteries during the reign of Broads as part of the 20-year Broadland Speed limits must be between boaters and anglers the BA Henry VIII with the abbey’s stones being Flood Alleviation Project. It is adhered to at all times created a fishing zone along this part of used in the construction of many local buildings. Although little remains of the abbey, the Bishop of Norwich holds an open air service at the site on the first Sunday of August in his role as abbot. The entrance to Fleet Dyke and South Walsham’s inner and outer broads lies almost opposite the abbey. Even though you can cruise round the privately owned inner broad, mooring, landing and fishing are forbidden. The next point of interest is the entrance to Ranworth Dam. The name is appropriate because it leads boats into Malthouse Broad and straight past the sealed off . Public moorings are available at the staithe There are a number of good moorings in Horning, including those at Horning Ferry Inn and the parish staithe where The Malsters pub, a Broads

62 l January 09 mbmclub.com insiders’ guide Northern broads

Distances River Bure n Great Yarmouth Yacht Station to Acle Bridge – 11.5 miles n Acle Bridge to Horning – 9.5 miles n Horning to Wroxham – 6 miles n Wroxham to Coltishall Lock – 5.5 miles n Thurne Mouth to Potter Heigham – 3 miles n Potter Heigham to Hickling Staithe – 5 miles River Ant n Ant mouth to Ludham Bridge – 1 mile n Ludham Bridge to – 3.5 miles n Barton Broad to Stalham – 2 miles A classic cruiser passes one of Horning’s traditional thatched boathouses on the River Bure Speed Limits Authority information centre, a public located on the edge of Horning. In used a former landing craft to dismantle n Port of Great Yarmouth telephone, and toilets can be found. For March 1949 it became the scene of a the barrier of tree trunks and chains at – 5 knots the more adventurous, Ranworth confrontation between a local the broad’s entrance. This ‘invasion’ led n Breydon Water – Church’s tower provides one of the best landowner and boaters over the rights to a settlement whereby the landowner no limit applies views of the Broads. of public access to private broads. Since agreed to open the waterway to the n The Broads – various As you rejoin the Bure from Ranworth time immemorial all Broadland waters public each year between Easter and limits ranging from 6mph to 3mph the trees become more numerous as have been considered as part of the mid-September. you approach the village of Horning. King’s River, thereby making them free There are two broads between Black VHF Radio Channels With its large number of picturesque and common to all men. Horse Broad and Wroxham, which are Great Yarmouth VHF Ch 12 thatched cottages and open to the public. The first is Breydon Bridge VHF Ch 12 boathouses it is easy to see why A toll applies to all Salhouse Broad with its grassy Charts & guides the BBC chose Horning as a key slopes, small sandy beach and n visiting boats Admiralty Chart 1536 – location for the filming of Arthur “ public footpaths that lead into the Approaches to Great Ransome’s Coot Cub and Big Six. However, several Norfolk landowners adjacent woodland. The second is the Yarmouth and Lowestoft There are a number of good sealed off their broads from the” main much larger Wroxham Broad – home n Geo Projects Map – The moorings including those by Horning river network during the 19th century of the Norfolk Broads Yacht Club. Broads Ferry Inn and the parish staithe. Perhaps under the auspices of the Enclosures Although visiting boats can motor n The Green Book published annually by the the most unusual boat to be found Acts and Awards. Disgusted by the across the broad you must keep clear Norfolk & Suffolk Yachting cruising from Horning is the Mississippi- direct challenge to these ancient rights, whenever the members are racing. Association style paddle steamer Southern Norfolk boatbuilder and designer Equally, do not use any of the private Comfort, which operates during the Herbert Woods led the public campaign mooring buoys. summer. The village’s facilities include to oppose this behaviour. When The river from Wroxham Broad soon shops, telephones, toilets and a slipway. conventional measures failed, Herbert gives way to a series of waterside The entrance to Black Horse Broad is Woods, together with 30 local men, properties as you motor into the >>

The Mississippi-style paddle steamer Southern Comfort A gaggle of geese: holidaymakers feed the local wildlife in Wroxham Broad

mbmclub.com January 09 l 63 The entrance to Upton Dyke

Limitations Air draughts on the River Bure n Upstream of Vauxhall Bridge 6ft 9in at HW village of Wroxham itself. Moorings are pleasant piece of water has good stern- Another of the Broads Authority’s n Upstream of Acle Bridge difficult to find within Wroxham to public moorings, toilets and a small fishing zones is located upriver of 12ft at HW n although there are 24-hour moorings chandler’s. The pretty village of Ferry. This relatively narrow Wroxham Road Bridge 7ft 6in at HW upstream of the road bridge. Ludham is only a short walk away and reed-lined part of river eventually opens Wroxham is home to several boasts a pub and a village store. up to reveal Martham Broad, although Air draughts on the boatyards and shops, including the On rejoining the Thurne you will find you must keep to the main channel. The River Thurne chandler Norfolk Marine and Roys of the reed-lined banks soon give way to river terminates at West Somerton’s n Upstream of Potter Wroxham – once described as the the various riverside bungalows of public staithe, which has good public Heigham Old Bridge world’s largest village shop. Potter Heigham. The large yacht moorings and the water is so clear here 6ft 9in Beyond Wroxham, the remaining marina built by Herbert Woods close to that you can actually see the riverbed. Air draughts on the navigable waters flow through the bridge was probably the first marina Instead of heading towards West River Ant meadows, marshes and woodland, and of its type to be built when it was Somerton at Martham you could head n Upstream of Ludham the picturesque villages of Belaugh completed in 1931. The two-acre basin Bridge 8ft 6in at HW and Coltishall before terminating at was literally dug out by hand to provide n Upstream of Wayford the disused Coltishall Lock. 1800ft of quay heading for hire fleets. Bridge 7ft at HW On the opposite side of the river lies Length and beam The River Thurne the pilot station operated by Robin and A maximum length On passing the entrance to Upton Patrick Richardson. All hire boats must restriction of 46ft and a Dyke, the two mills that mark Thurne be taken through the bridge by a pilot maximum beam restriction Mouth can be seen in the distance. The and those unfamiliar with the notorious of 12ft 6in applies to the point at which the River Thurne flows medieval bridge would be well advised following stretches of into the Bure can often feel like a to use their services. The Richardson water: n River Bure – Upstream motorway junction at the height of the brothers also operate a fleet of electric of The Rising Sun Public summer season. Nearby Thurne Dyke day launches as well as the Repps House Coltishall, Upton has plenty of moorings with public Staithe boatyard on the other side of Dyke and Hermitage Dyke toilets, a telephone, post box, a small the bridge. The village’s facilities include n River Ant – The entire shop and a pub close to the staithe. Lathams general store, a small games waterway and its Alternatively, you could keep going arcade and perhaps the best fish and navigable branches and tie up at Womack Water. This chip shop on the Broads. Thurne Mill marks the start of Thurne Mouth including Barton Broad n River Thurne – The beautiful stone bridge at Potter Heigham Upstream of Dungeon Corner, Catfield Dyke and its branches, Waxham Cut, Meadow Dyke, Candle Dyke, Womack Dyke and Womack Water n NOTE: Vessels registered on the Broads before October 1991 are exempt from the beam restrictions while vessels first registered on the Broads before April 1992 are exempt from the length restrictions. Further restrictions apply to those vessels with a beam greater than 14ft with details available from the Broads Authority.

64 l January 09 mbmclub.com insiders’ guide Northern broads up Candle Dyke, which leads to factfile and Horsey Mere. The channel through Heigham Sound is Hire Fleets clearly marked and you should keep to There is still plenty of it at all times because it is quite shallow choice for those wanting to hire a boat ranging from outside the channel. Despite the the large GRP expanse of open water the same also motorcruisers to small applies on Hickling Broad. electric day launches. The At the top of Hickling Broad there are majority of the operators moorings by the Pleasure Boat pub. are represented by either Alternatively, at the top of Heigham Blakes Holidays or Sound you could cruise up the Hoseasons. relatively narrow Meadow Dyke to The Regatta Circuit Horsey Mere. The only The annual Broadland moorings at Horsey Mere are Hickling Broad is the regatta circuit is one of the at the end of the staithe, The moorings at the Pleasure Boat pub on Hickling Broad area’s greatest attractions. which is just over a mile away largest broad in The largest yachting from the beach. the network but marshes are just one picnic overlooking the Ant. events to be held every it’s only 1.5m of the places where The Broads Authority has established year on the northern rivers The River Ant reed cutters can still be an information centre within the include the Three Rivers Good moorings can be found deep seen in action gathering grounds of How Hill at the Toad Hall Race, Wroxham Week, upstream of Ludham Bridge with a crop that is highly prized Cottage Museum, which provides a Horning Week, the three Barton Regattas and the an electric charging point, rubbish by local thatchers. glimpse into the life of a marshman at Thurne Mouth Open disposal facilities, water and a small It was while cruising this part of the the turn of the 20th century. Tickets can Regatta. convenience store. Those in search of Ant at the turn of the 20th century that also be purchased at the centre for a tranquillity may wish to avoid these the Norfolk architect Edward Boardman trip along the shallow dykes of the How Moorings moorings on either a Friday or Saturday and his wife fell in love with How Hill Hill nature reserve, aboard the electric The quality of moorings evening when several hireboats pass and decided to build a large thatched launch Electric Eel. varies around the northern rivers with a range of under the bridge on their way to or house for themselves. Barton Broad could be described as moorings outside pubs to from the Richardsons’ Stalham yard. Today, the house is owned by the How the jewel in the crown of the northern free 24-hour moorings in The River Ant between Ludham and Hill Trust and used as a residential field zone following its extensive five-year the middle of nowhere. Barton Broad is a pretty stretch of studies centre. Although the house is restoration by the Broads Authority to Most moorings are of the water running mostly through open closed to the public, there are some increase the depth of water both inside alongside type, although marshland with reed-lined riverbanks. wonderful walks within the grounds and and outside the marked channel. there are a few locations During the winter months these a large green where people can enjoy a At the top of Barton Broad you can where boats are required either follow the Ant up to the fixed to moor stern-to and drop Wayford Bridge (7ft air draught) or a mud weight over the A Broads Authorirty patrol boat cruise on to Sutton Broad and stop for bow. the night at the 24-hour free moorings Slipways at Sutton Staithe. Alternatively, you Most riverside boatyards could head north from Sutton Broad will launch boats for a and motor up Stalham Dyke into the reasonable charge. A list village of Stalham, which is home to of launching facilities can various boatyards and the be obtained from the Broads Authority and the Museum of the Broads. Green Book. Contacts n Great Yarmouth Port Authority 01493 335500 n The Broads Authority 01692 678459 n River Inspectors Control Requirements for visiting craft at Carrow Bridge The Broads Authority (BA) charges a toll to all vessels on the Broads, which is 01603 625091 determined by the boat’s type, size and use. For those staying only a few days a n Great Yarmouth Yacht short visit licence can be purchased to cover up to a total of 28 days within a Station 01493 842794 single toll year. Licences are available either from the BA’s Head Office in Norwich, n Blakes Holidays from one of its information centres or the harbourmaster at Oulton Broad. If you 0870 238 9703 decide to extend your visit beyond 28 days you will need to upgrade to a full n Hoseasons licence and the fee you paid for the short visit licence will be credited providing it is 0870 543 4434 within the same toll year. n Norfolk & Suffolk The BA introduced the Boat Safety Scheme (BSS) to the Broads on 1 April 2007. Boating Association The BSS has been phased in over three years with the final group of craft having www.thegreenbook.org.uk to conform to the standards after 1 April 2009. However, the BSS only applies to those boats spending more than 28 days on the Broads although visiting craft are still subject to boat checks. Traditional reed cutters get to work

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