Spa Wellness: Reset & Recharge

MARCH 2020

CELEBRATING 45 YEARS

March 2020 Celebrating 45 Years Volume 45 | Number 3 We’re more than a magazine, we’re... A Dependable Resource features DERMASCOPE provides invaluable resources into the products and ingredients world. Stay current on the most effective ingredients and 34 discover the most popular products on the market with our annual Facial Exercises: Are They Aestheticians’ Choice Awards in our Products & Education Guide. More Than Tongue and Cheek? by Melissa Black, L.E. Visit dermascope.com/2020acas today to start browsing the 40 products and equipment that other aestheticians in the industry Hydrotherapy Enlightenment: Harnessing the Wellness can’t get enough of! Benefits of Water by Nicole Majdali, L.E. ING RAT EB L E 50 C What’s Your Type? An

Y Overview of Spa Varieties

A and Their Function

R S by Jennifer Foster, L.E. est. 1975 62 45th Anniversary Sponsors Biohacking the Body: A New Approach to Skin Health by Courtney La Marine, L.E.

March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 7 contents Volume 45 | Number 3 departments 92 CRITICAL COLLECTIONS A spotlight on products featuring 8 honey Mandelic STRICTLY DIGITAL Get the first look at online exclusives Miracle 10 31 EDITOR’S NOTE GAME CHANGERS Welcoming in Wellness Sultans of Spring P E R F E C T R E N E W A L 12 33 AIA WELCOME BEST IN THE BIZ 95 Endless Possibilities Éminence Organic Skin Care THE EXAM Test your knowledge 16 61 STAFF BOX PUT IT INTO PRACTICE 97 What Song Best Sums You Up? Vitamins & Supplements ADVERTISERS INDEX Easily find current advertisers 18 79 CONTRIBUTORS SKIN HEROES What's Something You Are Really The latest products Bad At? 21 72 INSIDE STORY INSIDE AESTHETICS Steven Rosenfeld, Columbia “This gentle peel is perfect for those with Catch up on industry news SkinCare sensitivities. Skin appears smoother and brighter.” 98 — T H E S T U D I O S K I N C A R E FACT OR FICTION Does Waterproof Mascara Damage Eyelashes? The perfect prep with 10% mandelic acid

Look for this icon Shrink Reignite Swipe away Improve throughout the issue to + + + skin tone get bonus content! congested flawless fine lines Visit DERMASCOPE.com pores radiance and wrinkles and texture 23 81 to gain access to online- MODERN MEDICAL SCOPE THIS only articles, news, Mastering Microneedling A few quick reads products, and more!

  8 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 lemieuxcosmetics.com (888) 327-8188 @LeMieux @LeMieuxSkincare strictly digital SPA highlight

MILK + HONEY SPA

This month’s spa highlight, Milk + Honey Spa, is located in Austin, Texas. The brand’s largest spa to date, this relaxing ONLINE environment holds over 14 treatment rooms. Milk + Honey exclusives Spa focuses on relaxation through their signature massage. Did you know you can find exclusive articles The spa also offers non-toxic nail services, salon services, each month on DERMASCOPE.com? waxing, and facials. With tax season here, we dive deep into Milk + Honey Spa’s signature service is their massage accounting and payroll, billing best practices, which focuses on relaxation and stress relief. This treatment and bookkeeping. is the basis for the spa’s other services by providing healing, wellness, and true relaxation. PAYROLL: WHAT TO PAY SPA EMPLOYEES WITHOUT COMPROMISING THE COMPANY’S BOTTOM LINE by Courtney Sykes, L.E.I.

INTEGRATING ACCOUNTING FOR BETTER SERVICE by Jeff Dickerson MONTHLY columns HOW TO GIVE YOUR PAYMENTS A SPA TREATMENT Video Columns by Samantha Ettus Written Columns Be sure to check out March’s installments of each of This month also features an exciting lineup of new our monthly columns on topics like skin disorders, video installments to our nine monthly video columns. LED, digital marketing and public relations, self-care, With a range of topics from medical aesthetics and sanitation, and more. Here’s a sneak peek! treatment room tips to hair removal and makeup musts, you won’t want to miss these. Take a look! HOW TO CHOOSE A SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORM TO BEST TELL YOUR STORY by Debra Locker Choosing the right communication platform can be difficult. Locker delves into choosing the right mode of communication that can work best for spa and skin care professionals.

BODY LANGUAGE TO HOT TOPICS IN SKIN CARE ACE A JOB INTERVIEW by Ben Johnson, M.D. by Briana McKee, L.E. In the third video in his series, Johnson addresses the question Taking it back to the basics, of the links between alcohol consumption and rosacea. Briana McKee’s monthly column, “Body Talk” ALL THINGS FACE discusses key topics while by Kathleen Carney, L.E.I. preparing for an interview, This month, Carney delves from a handshake to into microdermabrasion typical interview questions. and its many forms. Discover how to stand out Learn the definitions and from the rest and get that treatment methods using dream spa job. crystal, salt, and crystal-free microdermabrasion.

10 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 11 publisher's note

“Clients are coming into spas requesting more holistic treatments, even when battling the same problem areas.” ELCOMING W IN WELLNESS

In 2020, the trend towards wellness is gaining traction Another trending topic in this month’s wellness issue, an with skin care salons and spas around the globe. Clients are article on biohacking breaks down this new approach to skin coming into spas requesting more holistic treatments, even health. Read from Courtney La Marine’s “Biohacking the Body” when battling the same problem areas. Whether it's fine lines on how to utilize this method and discover best practices from and wrinkles, acne, or hyperpigmentation, the holistic method experts. is becoming more common for consumers to seek out. As the Finally, Nicole Majdali’s article, “Hydrotherapy Enlighten- professional, being able to offer trending treatments that pro- ment,” discusses the origin of the treatment, types of practice, duce results is key. For some areas of the country, it might be and a few good tips and tricks for professionals to utilize. CBD-based facials, while for others it might include IV therapy. Whatever direction your spa decides to take towards Take a look at our wellness-based feature articles for March wellness in 2020, understand that your clients will notice the 2020 and see what you can start implementing into your spa. change. While it is not the only trend of 2020, believe that it will First, a new wellness trend that has only just begun to be one of the longest-lasting. catch momentum: facial exercises. The benefits of these movements go above and beyond with their techniques and tried and true antiaging benefits. Read Melissa Black’s article, “Facial Exercises” for a brief overview followed by technique training and benefits for clients. Next, in Jennifer Foster’s article, “What’s Your Type?” discover what spa category fits you and your treatments. Learn Amanda Strunk Miller how to build a business based on clientele and location, while Publisher and Managing Editor unlocking your potential in the industry. [email protected]

12 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 aia welcome

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How often have you heard someone make the statement, textbook development. By all the above, I have found myself “You never know where you’ll end up?” I have heard it count- educating tens of thousands of skin care professionals in over less times, but I have said it even more. 30 countries around the world and opening one of the top 10 Apple Stem Cells Ultimate anti-aging The fact of the matter is – you just never know. international aesthetics schools in the United States. Not bad As we roll into the start of tradeshow season, it is the for a small town girl from upstate New York. Now, don’t get me combat signs of aging peptides smooth lines ideal time to keep your eyes, ears, and mind wide open to ev- wrong – none of this was easy and none of it was handed to and wrinkles erything going on around you. The array of new products and me. It took hard work, perseverance, and courage, but none of equipment, the astounding wealth of information and educa- it would have been possible without the people that I met and tion, and the plethora of networking opportunities are endless. the connections that I made along the way. The tradeshow experience offers the opportunity to net- My point is that quite often we don’t have a clear path of work with fellow professionals, manufacturers, distributors, where we want to go or a clear vision of our future – and that sales representatives, educators, marketers, and influencers. is okay. When you keep your eyes, ears, and mind wide open Increased Antioxidants When you take advantage of this opportunity, you open doors to everything going on around you, and take advantage of net- collagen formation protect the skin that you never even knew were closed. You open yourself to working opportunities, you never know where you’ll end up. unforeseen knowledge and growth potential that may never have been presented to you in the past or may never have been a possibility. I will share with you my unforeseen experiences. By writing an article, I found myself on stage at a tradeshow. By speaking on stage, I found myself hosting conferences. By Michelle D'allaird Brenner writing, speaking, and hosting, I found myself contributing to AIA President and Director of Education Products Professional Only Education Harnessing the most active Medical grade skincare products Hands on educators, paired ingredients from nature and formulated for greater efficacy, safety with Societe University, pairing them with the most and potentcy provide the latest in product current scientific advancements knowledge 14 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 310 East I-30, Suite B107, Garland, TX 75043 | Phone 800-961-3777 | Fax 469-429-9301 | DERMASCOPE.com

What Song Best Sums You Up?

Everything’s PUBLISHER & MANAGING EDITOR AMANDA STRUNK MILLER Gonna Be [email protected] Alright by Bob DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING BECKY MORRIS Marley [email protected] GRAPHIC DESIGNER MARLINA DARMAWI [email protected] ASSISTANT EDITOR ANNE TODD [email protected] Free Fallin’ by EDITORIAL ASSISTANT MICAH KOPCHENKO Tom Petty [email protected] CIRCULATIONS & ACCOUNTING ELVIA VALENZUELA [email protected] IN-HOUSE AESTHETICIAN ELIZABETH BRASHER

AESTHETICS INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION PRESIDENT & DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION MICHELLE D’ALLAIRD-BRENNER VICE PRESIDENT PATRICIA STRUNK [email protected] MEMBERSHIP DIRECTOR MELISSA LAWRENCE [email protected] MEMBERSHIP COORDINATOR ELVIA VALENZUELA [email protected]

Joker by Steve EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Miller Band BEN JOHNSON, M.D. CEO and founder of Osmosis Beauty BRIAN GOODWIN Education development lead at Eminence Organic Skin Care Whatever Lola DANNE MONTAGUE-KING Founder of DMK-Danné Montague-King Co. Tomorrow from Wants by Sarah DASHA SAIAN MARCHESE CEO of Saian Natural Clinical Skincare the Broadway Vaughan DENISE RYAN Vice president of brand management musical, Annie at Celluma by BioPhotas LYDIA SARFATI CEO and founder of Repêchage LYN ROSS Founder and CEO of Institut’ DERMed Clinical Skincare MICHELLE D’ALLAIRD-BRENNER Owner of Aesthetic Science Institute, LLC Happy by SANDY FUHR President of CIDESCO International Bird Set Free Pharrell SUSAN FULTON ARREGUI CEO of Vivant Skin Care by Sia VICTORIA TABAK CEO of Nature Pure Clinical Skin Care

DERMASCOPE and its associates are dedicated to keeping readers informed about every phase of the aesthetics profession. We welcome unsolicited manuscripts and newsworthy information regarding our industry, but accept no responsibility for their return. We do not necessarily endorse ideas expressed in articles published, nor do we accept liability for accuracy, claims, errors, or omissions made in advertisements. A majority of the images, unless otherwise specified, contained within this issue were obtained via Depositphotos® Incorporated.

16 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 contributors What's Something You Are Really Bad At?

“Giving street directions – I am so dyslexic!” MELISSA BLACK, L.E. Owner of Bombshell Salons and Candy Coat Beauty: Spray Tanning and Waxing and Creator of CBD SkinPro Society Facial Exercises, pg. 34

“Minimalism.” NICOLE MAJDALI, L.E. Educator for Janssen Cosmetics and Dr. Schrammek Hydrotherapy Enlightenment, pg. 40

“Setting up electronics.” JENNIFER FOSTER, L.E. Education Specialist for Éminence Organic Skin Care What’s Your Type, pg. 50

“Saying no.” COURTNEY LA MARINE, L.E. Owner of Clove Studios Biohacking the Body, pg. 62

18 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 inside aesthetics Check out a spa approved for special recognition, a well–known professional retires, and an industry veteran brand shares a special launch.

INDUSTRY ICON SPA APPROVED Joni Rae Russell Announces Retirement After Salon Lorrene is Second Inspected Spa Legendary Beauty Career Approved by CIDESCO USA Anyone who has worked in CIDESCO USA is scheduling inspections for the beauty industry over the spas who are interested in receiving the prestigious past 47 years has most CIDESCO accreditation. This designation requires likely met or heard about that spas meet rigorous CIDESCO hygiene guide- Joni Rae Russell, the lines and ensures that their skin care professionals marketing mastermind are qualified, knowledgeable, and trained to provide behind Joni Rae and excellent services. Associates. From ABBA Salon Lorrene to ZOOM! and hundreds in Palatine, Illinois, of companies in between, offers a wide array Russell’s client list reads of services for like a who’s who of the beauty clients to spoil industry. Now, after 47 years, Rus- themselves using sell is announcing her retirement at the start professional prod- of 2020. Russell now moves ahead with the next step of her ucts and tech- journey, as she looks forward to spending quality time with her niques that provide husband and tackling her next challenge. It is safe to say that an exceptional the beauty industry will greatly miss her expertise but wishes experience. Salon her well in this next chapter. Lorrene’s cata- log of facial and waxing services, massage therapy, manicures, and A HIGHLY pedicures meets the highest of standards within the industry. The spa exemplifies CIDESCO and is ANTICIPATED LAUNCH deserving of the accreditation. “With a combined 50 plus years of experi- Repêchage Launches at The Spa by Equinox Hotels ence, the pampering spa staff at Salon Lorrene is Repêchage, the com- committed to education, the environments, and pany founded in 1980 by skin our esteemed clients,” said Lorrene Conino, owner care visionary, Lydia Sarfati, of Salon Lorrene. “Our dedication to an unforget- is making its return to New table, healthy experience in sustainable pampering York City’s spa scene at The is mutually beneficial for our guests and our world. Spa by Equinox Hotels at Achieving the prestigious CIDESCO accreditation Hudson Yards. Locals and affirms what we strive for at Salon Lorrene.” tourists visiting Manhattan “It is a thrill and a privilege to welcome Salon will now have the opportu- Lorrene into the CIDESCO USA fold,” said Christie nity to soothe their skin with Smaidris, a spokesperson for CIDESCO USA. “Salon the seaweed-based skin Lorrene is now among many more schools, salons, care products and immerse and spas that hold the highest standard in educa- themselves to treatments tion and safe practices.” that have transformed the spa industry. To celebrate the launch, editors and New York City press were invited to experience this new treatment For more current industry news, along with Repêchage signature facials. visit DERMASCOPE.com.

March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 21 modern medical Mastering Microneedling by Beatrice Van, L.M.E.

Microneedling is icroneedling, also called collagen induction therapy, not a magic wand has become an increasingly widespread skin but when following treatment for those who want to improve the look proper protocol and of their skin, boost collagen, and minimize acne sanitary procedures scarring, photoaging, and stretch marks without and addressing Minvasive treatments, while optimizing topical delivery for treating all the above conditions like melasma and acne. It involves pricking the surface of contraindications the skin multiple times using very fine, short, sterile needles to create and medical history, hundreds of microscopic punctures, which kick the skin’s natural a practitioner can healing process into high gear to improve skin texture, reduce the size truly help change the lives of clients. of pores, and minimize the appearance of wrinkles and scars.

March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 23 modern medical

The micro-injuries created during microneedling signal the body’s immune system to react and heal, resulting in a higher cell turnover rate and increased collagen and elastin production, which can help reverse and slow down the signs of aging. Because of the treatment’s ability to acti- BENEFITS AND vate the generation of new DISADVANTAGES skin cells, just a few ses- thinners, have clotting dis- sions of microneedling will HOW DOES IT There are many benefits orders, skin types IV, V, and noticeably reduce fine lines WORK? for both the aesthetician VI, or rosacea, approach this and wrinkles and reduce and the client to offer and treatment with caution. As the appearance of stretch The body’s natural receive microneedling treat- mentioned earlier, for darker marks, hyperpigmentation, response to healing is used ments. As always, check skin types, such as those and pores. During and post- to increase collagen and with your state board to on the Fitzpatrick scale of treatment there is a window elastin in the skin. Skin ensure it is under your scope IV to VI, post-inflammatory of opportunity for tempo- care professionals create of practice and look for a hyperpigmentation can and rary penetration and diffu- thousands of microchan- certificate training course has been a significant com- sion for optimal delivery. nels during the treatment, to gain hands-on experi- plication. Treating these skin Collagen induction therapy which allows for leakage of ence with the equipment. types too aggressively, such is about more than collagen blood, serum, and lymph in There are many criteria to as with too many passes or induction. Microinjury of a controlled and temporary consider before offering depth of needle, combining the skin appears to reset or manner. The injuries initiate this treatment, for example, this treatment with intense reboot cellular function. If the wound healing, then a whether a client is the right pulsed light therapy, lasers, melanocytes over-produce cascade of growth factors candidate for this treatment, or chemical peels, can pro- or underproduce pigment, is released, which in turn cross contamination, allergic voke too much inflammation microneedling normalizes triggers new collagen syn- reactions, post-inflammatory and may trigger post-inflam- melanogenesis. The same thesis. This process has two hyperpigmentation, which matory hyperpigmentation. It is said for keratinocytes major benefits: it effectively can be experienced differ- is important to approach all when hyperkeratinization stimulates collagen forma- ently depending on skin type skin types with a progressive exists or sebocytes that tion and provides a clear and color, scarring, glyca- rather than an aggressive overproduce oil. Therefore, channel for topical serums tion, granulomas, and nerve approach. Before combining needling plays an important to be absorbed through injuries. Contraindications treatments, make sure to role in treating acne. the surface of the skin. By for this treatment include perform each treatment indi- persistently triggering this skin cancer, pregnancy, open vidually to see how their skin healing process with a series lesions, a compromised reacts and tolerates injury. CLEAR of microneedling treatments, immune system, includ- Collagen induction therapy the body keeps repairing ing autoimmune diseases, is great partnered with other the skin incrementally and diabetes, acne, dermatitis, non-ablative treatments, DEFINITION cumulatively to offer a result emotional instability, anti- such as light emitting diode Control and deﬁ ne brows with our easy-to-use, breakthrough like fractional laser treat- coagulants, infected skin, (LED) therapy, dermaplaning, brow gels, each fortiﬁ ed with Peptides for long-term brow beauty. ments and chemical peels fungal skin infections, active microdermabrasion, chemi- Now available in Clear. with minimal downtime. rosacea, psoriasis, raised cal peels, enzyme masks, moles or warts, and a nickel lymphatic drainage, micro- To inquire about becoming a RevitaLash® Cosmetics reseller, please call (877) 909-5274. allergy. When meeting with current, and laser or intense ETERNALLY PINK®– RevitaLash® Cosmetics honors the courage and strength of our Co-Founder, Gayle Brinkenhoff, and that of women everywhere clients who are on blood pulsed light therapy. by supporting breast cancer awareness, research and education initiatives year-round, not just in October. This is our Eternally Pink pledge. *Survey results from an independent 7 day©2020 consumer Athena study Cosmetics, with 69 participants. Inc. ©2019 Athena Cosmetics, Inc.

24 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 modern medical

will perceive the end results. BEST PRACTICES In addition to the consultation, utilize a client progress care and a daily homecare Before treating a cli- cover general medical and report to document depth, regimen, expectations for ent, be sure to conduct a cardiac history, skin healing speed, anesthetics used (if the first five days following thorough consultation, which such as a history of keloid in your scope of practice), each treatment, and the should include a concise scarring, prescribed hor- the skin’s initial response to importance of good hygiene medical history intake form mones or hormone altering treatment, any additional to help prevent infection, and discussion, standard medications, lifestyle, other comments on how the skin which can lead to further face diagram to chart prescribed medications, and responded to the treatment, complications including outstanding facial features, self-prescribed supplements. as well as pre- and post- post-inflammatory hyperpig- scars, wrinkles, and so on, The consultation should also treatment products, areas mentation. Post-treatment as well as a diagnostic his- include a baseline reference avoided, and why. instructions include avoiding tory used to establish the point for later developments For the practitioner and touching newly treated skin, cause of the skin condition and means by which to mea- the spa’s safety, create an heavy fragrances including being presented for treat- sure client progress. Before informed consent document fabric softeners and dryer ment. Questions on the and after pictures are vital that each client will sign sheets, harsh products such consultation form should for recording the skin’s initial and date prior to receiving as retinoids, astringents, and provide enough informa- condition and to observe microneedling treatments. drying products, exfoliation, tion to give the practitioner changes in skin tone, texture, A post-treatment signature and pet dander. As men- a clear picture to assess and resilience. The consulta- is also important when tioned before, microneedling health and suitability for the tion also establishes reason- documenting post-treatment creates small, open wounds treatment. Questions should able expectations of how on the skin to force the skin the client and practitioner to heal so proper hygienic practices are important

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26 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 modern medical

before after of treatments spaced apart according to the client’s healing time. Typically one treatment every two to four weeks will provide beneficial results that the practitioner and the client will see.

References Friedlander, Ruthie. “I Got The Kim Kardashian Vampire Facial.” Elle. Apr 2014. https://www.elle.com/beauty/makeup- skin-care/news/a14931/kim-kardashians- vampire-facial. “MICRONEEDLING REJUVENATES THE SKIN THROUGH COLLAGEN STIMULATION.” University Park Dermatology & Medical Spa. https://upderm.com/spa/microneedling. Nielsen, Mary. “A Compendium for Advanced Aesthetics: A Guide for the the skin so seriously that it Advanced or Master Aesthetician.” FriesenPress, 2017. Setterfield, Lance. “The for preventing infection. causes excessive bleeding. Concise Guide to Dermal Needling.” Acacia The client would not rub Pinpoint bleeding is the only Dermacare, 2017. “WHAT CAN TREAT LARGE FACIAL PORES?” an open wound in dirt and acceptable way to see blood safety, performance of the American Academy of DERMATOLOGY | the same idea goes with a with this treatment. Anything device, quality of needle ASSOCIATION. https://www.aad.org/skincare-secrets/treat-large-pores. fresh microneedling session. more and it is being done cartridges, and FDA approval “What is Microneedling.” WebMD. https:// The client should also avoid incorrectly. when considering which www.webmd.com/beauty/what_is_ microneedling. makeup for 12 to 24 hours or Finally, make sure to brand of microneedling to until the next day at the earli- have insurance for this use. Always keep in mind est, direct sun exposure, and procedure. Always use a that price does not equal Beatrice Van sunscreen for the first four brand-new, sterile needle quality. Due diligence and is an award- hours post-treatment. Heal- cartridge each time. Show- research are important when winning ing and calming antioxidants, ing the client the sterilized selecting new equipment for aesthetics as well as growth factor cartridge is never a bad idea. client services. master serums, will help support a Wear single-use, disposable educator and healthy recovery process. gloves, blot pinpoint bleed- In conclusion, micronee- enthusiastic, ing, and dispose blood tinged dling is not a magic wand positive self-starter with over 17 gauze in a double zipped but when following proper years of progressive experience SAFETY FIRST bag and place in the trash protocol and sanitary proce- in the beauty industry. In addition immediately post-treatment. dures and addressing all the to her role as clinical master Before offering mi- Dispose of used needle car- above contraindications and aesthetics educator at Spectrum croneedling, seek for hands- tridges in a sharps container. medical history, a practitio- Advanced Aesthetics, she is on training and a certification All too often, there are less ner can truly help change the clinical director for Fearless to identify what clinical end than sanitary practices used the lives of clients. Keep in Beauties. She is also a certified point looks like. Do not mis- in spas – to prevent from mind that product selection advanced aesthetician, makeup take this treatment with the becoming a headline in the is crucial to the efficacy of artist, and nail specialist. On her “vampire facial,” also known news, review and practice each treatment. Using topi- days off, Van is at Indie Esthet- as platelet-rich plasma all board instructed sanitary cal products to support the ics helping her clients look and (PRP). It is important to men- practices to protect yourself body’s natural inflammation feel like the very best versions tion that excess blood, that and, most importantly, the process and provide calming of themselves or off traveling is more than pinpoint is not client. There are a few meth- and healing ingredients is throughout North America as an acceptable. Microneedling ods and needling devices for important to help reseal bar- education ambassador for CND is not the vampire facial collagen induction, such as rier defense. These products and Fearless Beauties. Her pas- and as a certified, advanced tattoo devices, rollers, radio should also include moisture sion is to empower both students aesthetician drawing blood is frequency combined with and essential nutrients. Best and beauty professionals to boldly not within scope of practice. microneedling, and handheld results are seen with a series invest in their education and Also, be sure not to break electronic devices. Aside strengthen their skills, while el- from price, it is important evating standards in the industry. to keep in mind the client’s

28 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 game changers SULTANS OF SPRING Check out these just in time for spring products that will have clients ready for good weather!

ELDERFLOWER Elderflower is a powerful ingredient for skin and has been used to minimize pores and reduce CHAMOMILE excess oil in skin. Chamomile has been Its ability to firm a healing ingredient and freshen skin is used for centuries. In perfect for creating skin care it has been a more rejuvenated known to treat and fade appearance. Try dark spots, eliminate Probiotic Serum scars, and even fight with Elderberry and breakouts and ingrown Blackberry by ilike hairs when the occur. Organic Skin Care. Full of antioxidants, szepelet.com this ingredient also protect from free radical damage. Try Pinkini Hybrid Hot Wax by LYCON Wax USA. lyconusa.com

EVENING PRIMROSE OIL Applied topically, evening primrose oil soothes and moisturizes skin. It promotes clear skin, while also hydrating and reducing redness. Try Wildflower Ultralight Oil by Éminence Organic Skin Care. eminenceorganics.com

March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 31 best in the biz

icians’ C et h h t o i s c e e

A 2020 DERMASCOPE A WAR DS WINNER

rian started his career as an aesthetician and credits a large portion of his success in growing his clientele, as well as increased retail sales to Éminence. Brian explains, “With the Bcontinued education offered for free by Éminence, I had unlimited opportunities to learn new techniques and skillsets, as well as stay passionate about the products I love – such as the stimu- icians’ C et h h t o i lating Hungarian Herbal Mud Masque and Lime s c e e

A 2020 DERMASCOPE Stimulating Masque, and transfer this excitement A WAR DS to my customers. I went from a decent amount WINNER of client rebookings and retail sales to an average rebooking rate of 90%, as well as 70% sales to ser- Brian Goodwin vice ratio in retailing products.” The global educator and educational development His dedication eventually evolved his career to become a global educator and the education lead for Éminence Organic Skin Care shares his development lead for Éminence, which he has journey into the industry done for the past 10 years. From training over 1,000 spas internationally per year to writing in- formative feature articles for industry-leading publications such as DERMASCOPE, he has also facilitated master classes at industry tradeshows.

Éminence Organic Skin Care Masks The Lime Stimulating Masque brightens skin’s complexion with vitamins from lemons and lime, while thermal water delivers minerals to soften and nourish the skin. This active mask uses nettle to stimulate circulation, leaving a normal redness for up to two hours after treatment, helping skin appear rosy, firm, and fresh. The Hungarian Herbal Mud Masque detoxifies the skin, opens pores, and eliminates toxins while increasing circulation. This popular mud mask includes antibacterial cinnamon, vitamin C from ivy and sage to tone and heal, while paprika stimulates circulation leaving the skin refreshed and vibrant.

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March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 33 facial exercises Are they more than tongue and cheek? by Melissa Black, licensed aesthetician and instructor

34 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 35 “As the face ages, the skin loses elasticity and fat pads between the muscle and skin become thinner,” he continues. “The fat pads, which fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, give the face most of its shape. As skin becomes saggy, the thinning fat pads atrophy and slide, causing the face to fall down. Assum- ing the findings are confirmed in a larger case study, individuals now have a low-cost, non-toxic way for looking younger or to augment other cosmetic or antiaging treatments they may be seeking.” The study participants were women ranging in age from 40 to 65 years old that underwent two sets of 90-minute training sessions from a facial exercise instructor, for a total of 20 weeks. “Facial exercises that may be beneficial include those The topic of facial exercising has been well researched, that entail puckering and squeezing the cheeks” Alam said. along with the many ways individuals use their facial muscles “There are many muscles that collectively allow movement of throughout the day and what impact that has on their face as the cheeks, and our study showed that building these makes they age. T the upper and lower cheeks fuller. At the end of the case Recently I watched an Instagram video on face yoga, a study, participants reported being highly satisfied with the discipline touted by Hollywood A-listers like Jennifer Anis- results and noticed improvement on nearly all the facial areas ton and Gwyneth Paltrow. One of the exercises was crossing that were rated. There is almost a three-year decrease in age one’s eyes together while focusing on the tip of the nose and appearance in a 20-week period.” then holding cross eyed for a count of 15 seconds. It seemed a bit ridiculous. This led me to another thought of my friend telling me she encourages her nurse injector who performs SIX EXCERCISES Botox to freeze her muscles to the absolute maximum, creat- Here are six of the exercises Alam’s facial trainer gave ing zero movement. The thought of being frozen, devoid of the participants in the study. any facial expressions, was equally bizarre. The Cheek Lifter Gravity tends to age by pulling the cheeks down, giving WHAT DO THE STUDIES SAY? a flat faced appearance. This exercise targets the levator lobii Can we truly work out the muscles in our face just like superiroris, caninus, and zygomaticus major and minor and we do the rest of our body and get clear visible results? helps to develop the upper lip. Human faces were meant to be expressive, to show emo- Smile and open the mouth while forming a long “O.” tion. Individuals have 40 muscles in their faces. The muscles Fold the upper lip over the front teeth. Smile again to lift in the face are not like muscles in the rest of the body, though. those cheek muscles up. Place the index fingers lightly on the Rather than being attached to bone, the facial muscles are top part of the cheek, right on top of the cheek muscles, di- attached to the skin. rectly under the eyes. Relax the cheek muscles allowing them A plastic surgeon, who is always ready to debunk the to return to their original relaxed position. Do this 10 times. latest non-surgical face lifting fad, cited a facial exercise study. This was the first scientific study of its kind to test the premise Cheek Sculpting of facial exercise improving appearance. This exercise helps create a better cheekbone shape. It The study, published January 3rd, 2018 in the jour- tightens all then cheek muscles and helps to lift the middle nal JAMA Dermatology conducted by Dr. Murad Alam, part of the face. vice chair and professor of dermatology at North Western Smile without showing teeth, while rolling the lips out- University Feinberg school of medicine and a North Western ward as if trying to show as much lip as possible. Try to smile dermatologist, specifically helped middle-aged women to ap- with the corners of the mouth forcing the cheek muscles up. pear more youthful. You should feel a slight “burn” in the mouth corners. Alam said, “The exercises enlarge and strengthen the Next, place the index fingers at the corners of the facial muscles, so the face becomes firmer and more toned mouth, just above the mouth corners, pressing firmly. Now, and shaped like a younger face. Muscle growth is increasing slide the index fingers up to the cheekbones, pressing deeply the facial volume and counteracting the effects of age-related into the muscle, using very firm pressure. Maintaining that fat thinning and skin loosening.” pressure, use fingertips to lift those strands of muscle up and

36 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 37 over the cheekbones, towards the corners of the eyes. When TREATMENT ROOM TIPS Utilize social media to become the expert in the area. at the top of the cheek bones, stop and press tightly, holding Salons and clinics are offering these types of exercises Content is key and videos, stories, and posting go a long way. the muscles in place. Hold for 20 seconds. Feel the muscles within a spa environment already. Due to the new algorithms on major social media platforms tightening in the cheeks. Be careful not to slide fingers up too Face Gym Facial Workout studio in California is known like Instagram, one cannot put out too much content. More far, past the eyes, as you will lose grip on those thin strands for “it is not a facial but a workout for the skin” approach to is better. of muscle. For added pressure, and to help hold the grip in its skin care sessions using high energy kneading movements place, press the middle fingers on top of the index fingers. and technology to tighten and tone. Aestheticians are lucky to be able to work on and with Repeat this exercise two more times. They use a mixture of effleurage, jacquet pinching, people to help them look and feel better. Skin care profes- lymphatic draining, petrissage, and tapotement. Clients are sionals are part of a community of providers and clients trust Upper Eyelid Firmer left de-puffed, pink, and glowing. These professionals also use them with the most important thing they put out into the This exercise helps strengthen both the oculi palpebral microcurrent and radio and high frequency tools. world – their face. Lend this knowledge whenever and wher- and levator superioris, the muscles that help open and close Here are some fun and effective ways to launch these ever to grow a community. There is enough to go around for the eyes. It helps to smooth out wrinkles and fill in deep hol- treatments with clients. everyone – humans all have skin. When a skin care profes- lows on the upper eyelids. Design a facial with extended timing to incorporate de- sional puts their heart into their craft, it is never work – it is Place fingers in the same position as the lower eyelid toxifying massage to target skin that is dehydrated, sluggish, a calling. firmer. Now, close and squeeze eyes tightly together. Roll and compromised from the dry winter air. eyeballs up towards the ceiling. Feel the upper eyelid stretch- Invite clients to a lunch and learn where to demonstrate ing, continuing to look up with eyes squeezed tightly together. the new service and educate clients on the benefits of making Melissa Black is the owner of Bombshell Salons, Candy Hold tightly for 30 seconds. Repeat two times. this a lifelong routine. Coat Beauty: Spray Tanning, Waxing + Sugaring prod- Offer package deals bundling three to four sessions ucts and creator of CBD SkinPro Society, based out of The Eyebrow Lifter which include a private training where clients are taught Las Vegas, Nevada. She is a master aesthetics instructor, This exercise helps both the occuli polpebrol and levator facial exercises they can do at home. master aesthetician, and PMU Artist, and has been in the superioris which are the muscles used to open and close the Partner up with local yoga and pilates studios for industry for three decades. eyes. It helps to smooth out wrinkles on the upper eyelids and cross-promotions. helps to lift the eyebrows. It also strengthens the procerus and corrugator muscles which will smooth out the vertical lines them tightly. Extend the lower jaw forward. Using the lower between the eyebrows. jaw only, scoop up very slowly while closing your mouth. Smile. Press three fingertips of each hand under the eye- Visualize using the jaw to scoop up something heavy. Pull brows to force the eyes open. Smile while trying to drown the the chin up about an inch with each scoop, tilting the head eyebrows down against the fingers. Hold and breathe deeply. backwards. Open and close the lower jaw for 10 repetitions. Now, close the upper eyelids down tightly and roll the eyeballs Repeat this sequence three times. up towards the top of the head. Hold tight for 20 seconds. Release. Repeat this exercise three times. The Temple Developer The training of the temporalis muscle, located on each side of the “Human faces were meant to be expressive, to show head, is one of the most important muscles in the facial program, but emotion. Individuals have 40 muscles in their faces. it is also one of the most difficult to The muscles in the face are not like muscles in the control. A strong and toned temporalis will tighten and strengthen the rest of the body, though. Rather than being attached whole upper portion of the face. This to bone, the facial muscles are attached to the skin.” exercise also contracts the occipitalis muscle at the back of the neck where the scalp ends. When the occipitalis Scooping Jaw and Neck Firmer contracts, it helps to activate the temporalis. This exercise strengthens the group of muscles located Place the fingers together on the temples. Press lightly on on, around, and under the chin, including the triangularis, the temples while closing the jaw, clenching the teeth together depressor labii, mentalis, mylohyoid, digastric, and the and moving the chin up. Clench the teeth together, putting piatysma. tension in the muscle as if trying to make the ears move back- It also helps to diminish wrinkles on the side of the chin wards. Hold the teeth tightly clenched for 10 seconds. Next, and strengthen the jawline. clench down on the back teeth for a count of 10, feeling the Open the mouth and make an “ahhh” sound. Fold the temporalis muscle flexing with each clench. Repeat this exer- lower lip and the corners of the lips into the mouth and hold cise three times.

38 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 39 hydrotherapy enlightenment Harnessing the wellness benefits of water by Nicole Majdali, licensed aesthetician

40 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 41 to treat illnesses and pains. There are still clinical spas to go for treatments, including several locations in Germany that are well equipped with medical facilities to treat cardiovascular, physiotherapy, diabetes, and rheumatology. This naturopathic therapy is based around curative waters which result in an effective detoxification that rids the body of impurities and stimulates the body’s own healing powers. If people love to swim or visit the ocean it is because it is a form of hydrotherapy. In a busy lifestyle, individuals long to get away to visit the ocean, What comes to mind when hearing Hydration helps regularity, detoxifica- unaware that this has clinical healing the word hydrotherapy? Many tend to tion, complexion, immunity, and even effects and is not just for pleasure – no visualize something specific. There are weight management. prescription required. Sitting near an so many ways Wto benefit from hydro- ocean has soothing and de-stressing ef- therapy and now is the time to become fects on the body. In this industry, one familiar with these amazing treatments. THERAPEUTIC of the primary focuses is relaxation, as Skin care professionals are all too 94% of Americans report experiencing familiar with the word therapy these stress in the workplace. An alarming DEFINITION days. Most commonly it is used for percentage of young kids are now ex- “Hydro” comes from the Greek mental and emotional health with a periencing more stress than ever. Stress origin meaning “water” and “therapy” trained professional. It is also com- affects everyone in different ways, in- is a treatment intended to relieve or monly used for helping injuries with a cluding depression, anxiety, and physi- heal a disorder. Hydrotherapy is also physical therapist. Hydrotherapy is of- cal ailments. It is important to bring referred to as the “water cure.” It can- ten used as a form of physical therapy, awareness to other forms of healing. not be emphasized enough that the due to its resistance and low impact When humans overtax the body with most precious element of life is water. benefits. However, the most ancient over-booked schedules, the body also It is not only refreshing to look at the form of therapy is actually hydro- responds to situations differently than ocean but water also tastes great and therapy. Centuries ago, to Cleopatra when on a leisurely vacation. So, how is an essential nutrient for life – all and the Roman empire utilized the can people break up the long distances life. Humans can survive three weeks sacred waters of the Nile River and between a normal work week and a without food but cannot live one week thermal hot springs. Though many long awaited vacation? Hydrotherapy without water. countries and ancient cultures, such as can be done at health centers, wellness The body is approximately 60% India, China, and Egypt, used water spas, and even at home. water and the brain and heart are to produce different physiological and composed of 73% water. Skin is ap- therapeutic effects on different parts proximately 62% water. Water is the of the system for maintaining health, TYPES AND BENEFITS building block of the cells. Infants and preventing, and treating the diseases, There are several options to start children have a have a higher percent- the scientific evidence-based effects putting on the calendar and offering age of water, which is a goal to con- are not well documented. Some of to clients. Exercising in natural ele- stantly try and maintain as aging be- the most famous Greek philosophers, ments has greater benefits for mental gins. Skin care professionals replenish such as Hippocrates and Plato, wrote and emotional health than exercis- skin topically with serums, moisturizers, about the benefits of hydrotherapy. ing elsewhere. People join clubs with and in facials to keep skin’s appearance Water represents hygiene, health, and swimming pools, since it is an excellent youthful and hydrated. The earth is ap- purification in different cultures and form of exercise that is safer on joints. proximately 71% water. Without water beliefs. The word spa is thought to be Swimming does not often feel like there is drought, dehydration, and derived from the Belgian village of Spa exercise, but it is one of the best forms. no life. The health benefits of water known for its warm mineral springs. Hydrotherapy includes all three forms are a little more common knowledge. The springs were and still are used of water (liquid, steam, and ice).

42 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 43 Premium, medically-designed hy- pampering but in other countries it is drotherapy tubs used to be considered more medical and consistent. Skin care extremely expensive to spa owners, but “The use of hot and professionals are starting to recog- now that most businesses incorporate nize the benefits of regular massages valuable lasers and machines, these cold hydrotherapy and even starting to recognize it with ® therapeutic tubs no longer give a skin affects the body’s facials, too. These beneficial treatments care professional sticker shock. This is are much more valuable than indulging an amazing treatment for the person physiology and mood. in an expensive purse or shoes. Encour- Save 20% on Hard on the go. In 20 minutes, the client is Studies show a three- age clients to remember themselves Wax - 10lb bags too!* March 2020 Trio of Savings* instantly rejuvenated due to the lym- first. Years from now it will be such a phatic drainage jets and minerals and minute cold shower valuable investment that clients will trace elements added to the water. For in the morning gives be happy they made. Thalassotherapy clients that are too busy, this may be the remineralizes the body with a purified, ideal treatment. A client can actually better results than freeze – dried seaweed or sea water feel like they spent the entire day at the prescription drugs, through lyophilization. Rebalancing the spa in under 30 minutes. Everyone can body’s system helps strengthen immu- make time for that. It is worth missing plus no side effects.” nity and longevity. It is very important an episode of a favorite Netflix show for clients to start understanding the for some self-care. Consider having a benefits of seaweed wraps and hydro- therapist include shoulder, neck, and The extracts from the sea include sea- therapy treatments. They not only scalp massage during the appointment. weed, algae, and mud, which are rich increase energy and wellness but also If a client is under a physician’s care, in trace elements and minerals. They metabolism. Seaweed wraps are most they should consult their doctor before are known to be healing, relaxing, and commonly used in cellulite treatments. trying one of these treatments. detoxifying. This can help aches and The results are undeniable when done There are many different types of pains with anti-inflammatory proper- in a series with a proper diet and exer- hydrotherapy, such as capsules, mineral ties. It can also help aid the body’s cise regimen. In physical therapy, hot baths, Watsu, steam rooms, and even natural detoxification process. The tubs, whirlpools, ice packs, and more colon hydrotherapy. Thalassotherapy is soothing properties from nature are are all forms of hydrotherapy. The also hydrotherapy that includes deriva- also extremely relaxing. In the United resistance of the pools helps strengthen tives from the sea. “Thalasso” comes States, people tend to think of these muscles without the invasive impact from the Greek word meaning "sea." treatments as luxuries and indulgent to help heal. There is an instinctive

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A 2018 DERMASCOPE A relaxation just by the body being im- ter. When alternating between hot and WAR DS WINNER mersed into water. It causes clients to cold infusion during this treatment, the focus on breathing and it helps relieve body’s lymph system jumps into action. tension and pressure all over. This is The high atomizing mist showers and why swimming is a form of moving steam, when moved in unison, produce meditation. Cold hydrotherapy is used thermal contrasting, from hot to cold for depression. The use of hot and and cold to hot, without thermal shock cold hydrotherapy affects the body’s to the client. The results leave a person physiology and mood. Studies show a feeling totally relaxed and rejuvenated. three-minute cold shower in the morn- To completely indulge the client, a fa- ing gives better results than prescrip- cial or scalp massage can be done while tion drugs, plus no side effects. This is the body is being treated in the capsule. why there are an increasing number of Watsu therapy is an aquatic mas- cryotherapy locations opening up. sage where a therapist incorporates Try our Professional discounted Cryotherapy is cold therapy where warm water and zen shiatsu massage. “Start-up Products Program” that includes all back-bar the body or specific part is exposed to It is an effective way of mobilizing products for professional extremely cold temperature for several chi (the bodies life force), through the treatments with a step by step minutes. It is used to help pains, skin meridians, which are paths of energy. treatment manual for individual conditions, and mood disorders. Spa It was originated and trademarked in skin types, with progressive capsules are a covered hydrotherapy 1980 in California by Harold Dull. results, beyond skin care. bed where the client lays with their Although it is used to treat pain and head outside as the body is encapsu- injuries, other conditions such as stress, Ü Don’t wait, start making $$$ lated. Hot steam arises from the bottom depression, and insomnia were treated, with the original American half which stimulates circulation and as well. This form of hydrotherapy is Mfg. now! detoxification. Aromatherapy and color beneficial for pregnant women, as the Ü Register and shop on-line with light therapy are also incorporated in warm water is safe and it helps relieve reasonable prices, day or night this extremely soothing treatment. At back pain. The warm water also helps Ü Free shipping in the USA the conclusion of the treatment, the to relax and loosen tension. As the cli- Vichy showers located at the top of the ent floats, supported by the practitioner, capsule mist and rinse off the body – the lightness of the body in the water 800-441-3264 this can be done with warm or cold wa- frees the pressure of the spinal verte- [email protected] www.fanie.com

46 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 traindication to all hydrotherapy treatments. It is always a good idea to check with a healthcare provider before trying hydrotherapy. There are many options to add onto services in a business. Both medical and holistic facilities use hydrotherapy. All of these treatments discussed promote healing at many levels. At the most basic level, they are relaxing and reduce stress, which is the body’s leading toxin. They also help reduce the negative side effects of stress. Relaxation also helps anxiety, poor breathing patterns, and sleep, which are crucial to a client’s health.

There are more ways to incorporate hydrotherapy into one’s life and business. It can be as simple as hot and cold compresses, a spa capsule, or a body wrap. Space and resources are subjective. These treatments have been brae and allows the practitioner to ar- the body. Improved circulation means done since the days of Cleopatra, so ticulate the joints and elongate muscles more blood is brought to the muscles, it is fair to say they are probably going in ways that are not possible out of toxins and lactic acid are flushed out, to be around for a while. They are water. Colon hydrotherapy, also known and organs are revitalized, such as the safe, effective, and can be economical. as colonics, can help with many issues, brain, for better focus. It also helps Water therapy is relaxing, healing, and like allergies, stomach issues, fatigue, the lymphatic system. Steam baths or profitable. The demand these days is insomnia, inflammation, and chronic Turkish baths are warm rooms filled higher than the supply of these services skin conditions. This treatment uses with humidity. They are detoxifying mentioned. It is a great time to add warm filtered water to help hydrate, and often include aromatherapy to aid these services into a business. stimulate, and dissolve matter in the in relaxation and increased detoxifica- large intestine. By removing buildup tion. While steam rooms are filled with and toxins from the colon, the body moist heat, a sauna provides dry heat California native Nicole becomes rebalanced and functions from a wood or electric stove. They Majdali has worked as a better. It has been done for centuries benefit the cardiovascular system by makeup artist and aestheti- and is recommended to be done in a improving circulation through dila- cian for several leading series of three or more. It depends on tion of the blood vessels or capillaries. companies. Her passion and the individual but usually results are Steam room therapy has been shown to tenacity led her to be a top felt after one treatment. This treatment reduce blood pressure, keep the heart educator and representative for is an excellent service in wellness spas, healthier, and reduce joint pain. Janssen Cosmetics and Dr Schrammek in a couple medical spas, and even as a stand alone of United States territories for over 15 years. She business. It is highly recommended to has studied and been certified in Germany twice and get training and certification; however, PRECAUTIONS is getting ready for her third certification there in most states do not regulate this yet. Always have clients consult with 2020. She is working as a lead educator for these Contrast hydrotherapy is the use their physician first if concerned about two companies primarily in Los Angeles, California. of hot and cold and is a common health issues. Most hydrotherapy treat- Majdali’s career has expanded beyond the aesthetics therapeutic treatment. When heat is ments are safe; however, if a client is industry into entertainment these days, but she used, it expands the blood vessels filling pregnant, already under a physician’s incorporates her knowledge in wellness and beauty them with blood, which supplies nutri- care, on antibiotics, has heart disease, into both worlds. She has been a DERMASCOPE ents and oxygen. The cold application or high or low blood pressure, they contributor since January 2019. Her favorite quote constricts the blood vessels, forcing should consult with their physician first. is “Love what you do and you’ll never work a day the blood to move to other parts of Open wounds and alcohol are a con- in your life.”

48 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 what’s your type? An overview of spa varieties and their function by Jennifer Foster, licensed aesthetician

50 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 51 such as facial or massage businesses; however, most tables with linens. open their spa appointments to non-members. Membership Franchise A spa service can also Membership franchises include a day-of pass to are branded businesses of- the fitness center or aquatic fering spa services with the area in addition to locker added incentive of optional room privileges. membership. The benefit of this model is affordability, Training Schools accessibility, and consis- To support the growth tency. Memberships keep of the industry and the clients accountable to re- advancement of future pro- ceiving regularly scheduled fessionals, some spa-goers treatments. Lower rates on choose to schedule local As modern society em- to health and wellness. services (around one dollar student services. Services are braces this new day and age, This contrasts with the idea per minute on average) and supervised by licensed and cultural encouragement to of spa treatments serv- appointments made quickly vested instructors. Reduced engage in wellnessA as a life- ing exclusively as a luxury. with online booking are in- pricing helps compensate style is at an all-time high. Express concepts and centives. Memberships have for occasional misunder- Clients, guests, and patrons facial bars are a burgeon- locations that extend across standings, slips, and misses. alike are fully able to receive ing market that appeals to a franchise network, which Every professional begins a multitude of services busy clients and the budget can be regional, nationwide, their career behind a train- in a myriad of spas while conscious. Usually offering or global. Most companies ing table but student services perpetuating an industry of extended hours and capable keep client portfolios on are not necessarily subpar. exceedingly innovative and of performing most aesthet- file electronically so that all It is common for students talented professionals. ic treatments, these facilities locations have access to the to graduate with clientele, What a time to be alive. provide a pamper-esque same information. This fa- especially when licensed in A worthwhile treat- environment, while con- cilitates an easier intake for another spa related field and ment at any spa is time ducting services on an open aesthetic professionals and working toward an addi- and money well spent for floor plan. Half an hour of massage therapists while tional certification. a client. Investing in the a zen skin treatment during enabling expedited check- venture is the first decision, lunch, after the gym, or outs for front desk staff, but for a professional decid- before heading home from easing the transaction of RELAXATION ing what kind of spa to run work is a practical approach each visit on all sides. With AND CARE can pose as the real chal- to incorporating spa ser- standardized training for Day Spas lenge. Factors for selecting vices into everyday life. professionals, every spa The classic day spa is an ideal spa business include menu is alike and each cli- a true beacon of relaxation budget, location, and the Mobile ent receives the same treat- and wellness. A day spa consideration of specific or A rapidly growing spa ment protocols. menu has endless possi- particular needs. This article platform comes in the form bilities and spans the entire will review spa facility types of mobile services. From Club Spa and Fitness industry. Successful as a and business models, any of spa parties to in-home Health clubs and gyms stand-alone or incorporated which can be a combination facials and massages, the commonly offer spa services into a number of business of categories. opportunity to have licensed with menus complementing models, these spas are ca- professionals on-demand is the specific needs of ath- pable of exceeding expecta- now as easy as scheduling letes. Spray-tan applications tions at any given oppor- CONVENIENCE it on an app. Mobile spa are frequently available tunity. Basic spa services Express and Bar provider range from private alongside deep tissue work, commonly offered, include Increasingly, consumers practices to corporate body treatments, and tem- facial and aesthetic services, are opting for maintenance organizers. Some of these perature-oriented amenities like facial and body waxing, and care in the spa sector as companies also offer equip- like hydrotherapy. These are eyebrow and eyelash tint- an overall lifestyle approach ment and supply rental, largely membership-based ing, and eyelash extensions

52 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 53 the creative treatments and LET’S Save services offered by day spas around the world and can be a good business model for skin care professionals THE World to consider. Salon Spas Together! A salon spa can be convenient while simultaneously relaxing. Providing a variety of offerings in-house Start using reusable applicators! benefits an overall experi- Every spa and salon should do their part to have a positive ence, while contributing to impact on the environment. If you’re still using wood applicators a one-stop-shop approach. during hair removal services here’s a step you can take which will Traditional spa services, help you become more eco-friendly - start using stainless steel enhanced scalp treatments, reusable applicators with our *EPA registered, hospital grade spa samplings, miniatures, fungicide and virucide disinfectant. add-ons and upgrades dur- with makeup services and tions can be providing to contour sculpting services ing hair, eyelash, or nail By using stainless applicators you won’t throw away thousands tutorials. Advanced services, clients, including Swedish, are increasingly becoming services create opportunity of wood applicators each-and-every year. Plus, stainless steel such as microdermabrasion, Thai, Shiatsu, deep tis- popular, as well. for the professional. The applicators are kept warm in the disinfectant, which helps you dermaplaning, micronee- sue, phenomenal touch, Amenities or features same professional may pro- apply a faster, thinner and more comfortable application of dling, modular current, and reflexology, and rolfing – in day spas can include vide all services or any num- hair remover. frequencies are also com- depending on professional seasonal treatments, dry ber of other professionals mon. Light emitting diodes technique and certifications. saunas, steam rooms, salt may work on a single client. Using non-porous medical grade stainless steel instead of wood is (LED) and laser work, like Of course, full-body scrubs caves, crystal parlors, hydro- Dependent upon licensure not only good for the environment - it saves you money! intense pulsed light (IPL) are and wraps, along with back therapy related pools, liquid and state regulation, there found in day spas, as well. and intimate area facials, isolation or float chambers, are endless options to what For the body, a multi- are common day spa treat- and dry flotation. There are a salon spa can offer on tude of massage applica- ments. Vacuum and current virtually no limitations on its menu. One planted for every kit sold!

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The non-invasive medical cations can often be found aromatherapy, steam tow- visits in addition to longer Rental areas are commonly aesthetics industry will soon practicing in a medical or els, and comfortable chairs. on-site stays. found within salons, gyms, reach a value of $10 billion. clinical environment. Some It is especially suitable for homes, and wellness malls. Growing demand for these medical spas also feature clients who experience Aesthetic Advocacy and Mobile services are often types of services is glob- chiropractic professionals distress in dental offices. Consultation Services available. Single profession- ally present. A medical spa, for hip and spinal adjust- Aesthetic advocacy als maintain their creative depending on state regula- ments. Medical spas are a Rehabilitation and consultation services and logistical freedoms over tions, typically has a resident great option for skin care Rehabilitation spas are find the most ideal profes- operational hours, products, physician or nurse on staff professionals who have the often private or exclusive sional or physician for a supplies, budget, protocols, to oversee or provide treat- correct licensure and can on-site spas which com- client’s needs and pair them and menu offerings. This ments. These facilities can utilize their skills to create a bine emotional and mental together, while protecting business model is perfect for also be incorporated into booming business. therapies performed by or the interests of all parties skin care professionals who a plastic surgeon practice. under licensed healthcare involved. It is the custom- are just starting out in the Medical and clinical laser Dental professionals. Reiki, mas- ization of a medical spa or business or need more flex- work, lift and sculpting, Dental spas prioritize sage, sound therapies, and plastic surgeon visit with ible hours. hotel, casino, boat, or ship. Hot springs are found entirety, focusing on both injectables, fillers, deep level the client experience and deep relaxation techniques added protection. While Excluding most boat or in nature and are often left external and internal appli- peels, and extractions, along differentiate from other emphasize healing to physicians and profession- Retreat ship-oriented spas, resort unaltered in their natural cations, including social and with oxygen treatments and dental practices by offering help rebuild and refresh als are often accomplished A retreat is an and destination spas are state. Depending on the emotional aspects. Natural individual or group spa usually open to both guests location, some have been muds, salts, clays, and ma- immersion. Disconnection and the general public. groomed, landscaped, or rine ingredients are utilized from the outside world Menus can be theme- structured for use. Natural along with herbal therapies. is prioritized to enhance oriented, elevating a springs are similar to hot Ayurvedic and homeopathic healing, perspective, geographic experience, springs but do not neces- approaches have similar yet and overall well-being. such as mountain, desert, sarily have the geothermal distinct qualities. Gentle physical activity jungle, or beach, depending heated element of hot Ayurveda or “knowl- combined with mental on the location. springs. A variety of miner- edge of life” relates to the and treatment-oriented als from the earth can be traditional Hindu system therapies are a highlighted Hot or Natural Springs present in the waters, which of whole body medicine, approach. Retreats function and Bathhouses benefits the skin and organi- developed more than similarly to a day spa and Most attribute the con- cally enhances these natu- 3,000 years ago in India. bootcamp hybrid. Featuring cept and widespread popu- rally occurring terra spas. Homeopathy or “similar concentrated applications larity of bathhouses to the Bathhouses are science” is a medical prac- in a relaxing environment ancient Romans. Thermaes man-made mimics of tice that originates from lends itself to a saturation or bathhouses were struc- hot and natural springs 18th Century Germany of bliss. Hosting or creating tures built on hot springs and usually incorporate and is structured around a retreat-like atmosphere where patrons engaged with steaming, dry sauna, cold the belief that the body can be a beneficial business hydro and temperature-ori- pool plunges, and jetted can heal itself utilizing for skin care professionals ented skin and body treat- soaking tubs. Culturally small amounts of plants looking to boost income. ments. Thermae resembled specific bathhouses can and minerals. Energy work modern-day spas by be found in the forms of may also be present in these Resort and Destination featuring gymnasiums and Banya, Hammam, Sento, or approaches to full body A resort spa is a facility rooms for relaxation. Due Jjimjilbang. wellness. Homeopathy located on a resort property to the extent of the Roman and Ayurveda are holistic or inside a hotel, while a Empire, the ruins of Roman Homeopathic and applications that can be destination spa could be a bathhouses have been found Ayurvedic Approaches singular or combined within separate business anywhere, throughout Europe, Africa, A holistic approach puts therapies, medical facilities, including within a resort, and the Middle East. emphasis on treating with or natural spa practices.

56 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 57 in multiple techniques and Two of the primary boot- Offering complimentary Child-sized treatment tables applications, some are camp routes are: or discounted treatments and chairs are enhanced highly skilled in a specific One: a series of strategic generates interest. They can by lively music and col- area of expertise. Advocacy treatments with shorter in- serve as a launch for new orful atmospheres. Skin professionals do not adhere tervals between applications. products or to help with care professionals should to a one-size-fits-all men- Descaling facial or body moving out existing inven- consider adding youth tality. As with any skillset, acne, special event prepara- tory. A pop-up can also treatments to their menu some professionals have a tion, and recovery services provide feedback to research if they see an increase in gift for achieving better than are often accomplished with and development teams for inquiry by clients. Spas average results in a specific a bootcamp timeline. Con- previous or future releases. for children often feature procedure or treatment. An centrated approaches with Skin care professionals licensed professionals who advocacy professional is an products, equipment, or should consider utilizing the have completed specialized aesthetic matchmaker who tools is common. pop-up spa model during training or certification and has a proven track record Two: a full body, overall tradeshows and community have undergone extensive working with top-tier profes- detoxification or enhance- events to put their business background checks. Paren- sionals. Using these services ment utilizing physical and on the map. tal or guardian accompani- for more invasive or ad- fitness oriented activities, ment is required. vanced spa services can help such as yoga, pilates, or Spas for Children reduce the risk of error and intense workouts combined Perfect for birthday malpractice while providing with spa services. parties and celebrations, ESSENTIALS some peace of mind. spas that cater to children Homecare Pop-ups can increasingly be found, Of all the spas, the Bootcamps Pop-up spas are tem- especially in larger me- most impactful is a home Ready, set, spa. Boot- porary physical or digital tropolises. While most spas spa. It is widely accepted camps are designed to sup- marketplaces for promo- for children include adult amongst wellness-based port aggressive approaches tional purposes used by accommodations alongside industries that homecare to yield immediate results spas, salons, online profes- treatments, some exclu- constitutes 80% of results. over a shorter time period. sionals, and product brands. sively cater to young clients. Similar to any investment, the optimization of hair, skin, and body endeavors requires additional engage- ment, which usually mani- fests in the form of retail purchases. Daily, weekly, monthly, and quarterly commitments are required for optimal performance. Providing homecare options to clients in a retail area makes for a good way to boost sales and retail. By giving the client the option to maintain their skin while not in the spa, skin care professionals boost their business, but also their bottom line.

Booking Tips With a seemingly endless variety of options, the greatest resource for information is the inter-

58 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 put it into practice net. Skin care profession- the available menu descrip- utes of active scheduling. tions or special needs. als should make sure their tions prior to booking. For a first-time visit, clients Recommend to clients to spa business had an online Remind clients that should provide a credit card book group treatments one VITAMINS & presence, whether through when making an appoint- to hold the appointment month to two weeks in ad- social media or a webpage. ment for any type of spa time, while also being asked vance if possible. Remember that clients will service online, note that it a series of questions regard- At any facility, proper research a facility and read could require several min- ing potential contraindica- spa etiquette will always SUPPLEMENTS serve an individual or a group’s best interests. Con- Trendsetters share insights on the vitamins sider adding signage that re- and supplements they recommend. minds clients to turn cellular DANNÉ MONTAGUE-KING phones on silent and remove Founder of DMK- Danné Montague-King all jewelry. Children and pets “DMK’s EFA+ not receiving services should supplement Dr. Jeff Collagen Treatment not be brought to the spa. provides the best with Freeze-Dried Being mindfully aware of and most precise these gestures will enhance blend of essential Collagen Mask the overall experience for fatty acids 3, 6, both clients and spa staff. HEATHER KREIDER, R.N., L.E. and 9. It contains Founder and Co-Owner of Hempfield Botanicals evening primrose All these spa options are “Feel less anxious throughout the day with this calming oil, seabuckthorn readily available for clients oral oil made with hemp seed oil, cannabidiol, and oil, and vitamin E to enjoy and for skin care specially compounded terpenes including caryophellene, encased in a fish- professionals to consider myrcene, and limonene. Studies suggest limonene may sourced, gelatin capsule. DMK’s EFA+ are utilizing. While exploring be a potential antidepressant, as well as a means to boost exceptionally beneficial to those suffering options for what kind of serotonin and dopamine in the brain, while caryophellene from irritated, red, or inflamed skin spa business a skin care and myrcene reduce stress through their pain-relieving conditions such as dermatitis, eczema, professional wishes to open, and anti-inflammatory properties.” and psoriasis.” consider the needs of clients, hempfieldbotanicals.com dannemking.com location, treatment options, scope of practice, and what the intention of the spa is. With all this in mind, there are innumerable combina- tions and spa business model options to explore and skin care professionals should research and examine each one equally to discover what SHAUNA BLANCH fits their methods best. KAELIN JUTRAS DR. BEN COO and Co-Founder of Color Up CEO and Founder of Herbal JOHNSON Therapeutics Skin Solutions Founder and CEO “The FULL SPECTRUM Vegan Capsules “My favorite skin-healthy of Osmosis Beauty As a licensed cosmetologist d licensed are a safe and easy way to incorporate habit that aids in collagen “The body uses aesthetician, Jennifer Foster is a CBD into a daily routine. The capsules synthesis, combats oxygen to heal, vested industry professional. Origi- contain 30 milligrams oxidative stress, and supports the entire fight bugs, and repair damage. nally from Atlanta, Georgia and cur- of high-quality, full- immune system is taking a daily dose of Osmosis Beauty’s Immune rently living in the Rocky Mountains spectrum CBD, Liposomal Vitamin C. With both fat- and Activator contains a patented, of Colorado, she has a wide spectrum offering the synergistic water-soluble pathways, another thing stabilized oxygen molecule that of experience which has provided her benefits from other Dr. Jeff Skin Care to love about Liposomal C is its efficient empowers the immune system with a wealth of industry knowl- phytocannabinoids such Phone: 1-909-923-0832 delivery system, which results in optimal and enhancing overall immunity edge. Foster is employed by Aesthetic as CBC, CBN, CBG, and Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683 absorption by the body.” inside and out.” Consulting Group and is an education less than 0.3% THC.” Email: [email protected] herbalskinsolutions.com osmosisbeauty.com specialist representing Éminence colorupco.com Web: www.dr-jeff.com Organic Skin Care.

60 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 61 biohacking the body A new approach to skin health by Courtney La Marine, licensed aesthetician

62 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 63 is essential. Biohacking is becoming Facial massage is one of the best more and more common in the news and most relaxing ways to increase and greater information is being pro- blood flow and boost circulation, giv- vided. There are many documentaries ing a client that post-treatment glow. on biohacking that can give an even Developing a unique and stimulating further explanation to this intriguing facial massage relieves muscle tension new way of attempting to take health and stimulates collagen production. into one’s own hands. Doing research into facial manipula- The definition of biohacking tions and their benefits can train the depends entirely on who is asked. Dave skin to heal itself. Teaching clients Asprey, a biohacker that created the at-home facial massage techniques is a company, Bulletproof, defines it as, type of DIY biology. “The art and science of changing the Building collagen is another way to environment around you and inside biohack the skin. Skin care profession- you so that you have full control over als all know that collagen production In the ever-changing beauty in- your own biology.” Now, let us discuss declines with age and is also affected by dustry, there are endless ways individu- the ways biohacking has made its lifestyle and poor gut health. Microcur- als attempt to defy the aging process, way into the aesthetics industry. The rent and microneedling can go deep whether throughI facials, chemical peels, word that best describes biohacking into the skin as an internal treatment. microdermabrasion, microneedling, is control. People wanting to optimize Skin care professionals have also been dermaplaning, microcurrent, LED and and upgrade their mind and bodies are applying products that build collagen infrared light, laser resurfacing, injectables, radio frequency, or Fraxel. While clients are constantly searching for the “EMULSIFIERS CAN WEAKEN THE SKIN’S next great thing to elongate their life or help them appear ageless, the evolu- IMMUNITY BY BRINGING IT TO A PH OF tion of beauty trends will keep them on their toes. And, with that, another SIX TO SEVEN – NEUTRAL. WHEN THE option now available is biohacking, also known as DIY biology. While this is SKIN IS SLIGHTLY ACIDIC, IT HAS THE not necessarily new, the way people are ABILITY TO FIGHT OFF PATHOGENS.” using it is. Biohacking is an extremely broad term that can cover a huge range of activities. Some have performed essentially seeking a new level of con- topically for years. But, biohackers science experiments on yeast or other trol. Why do people crave this type of have found new ways to build collagen. organisms, while others track their control? Why is biohacking so popular? Biohackers add collagen to their diet own sleep and diet. One extreme is to On a very basic level, people just want to achieve antiaging results by consum- attempt to change one’s own biology to feel better and possibly see how far ing bone broth and pasture raised and by pumping a younger person’s blood they can push their body. Some want to grass-fed collagen protein powder. into one’s veins in the hopes that it will push their mind and utilize their brain Changing one’s diet by incorporating fight aging. Yes, this is a real thing. It is to its fullest ability, while others want organic foods that are naturally high called a young blood transfusion. to cure illness. Some use biohacking to in collagen, such as, fish, chicken, kale, There are two types of biohackers: increase their physical ability and some spinach, beets, sweet potatoes, eggs, ones with PhDs and the amateurs. Of attempt to defy the limits of aging. tropical and citrus fruits, berries, garlic, course, many types of biohacking can leafy greens, cashews, and tomatoes is be controversial. The ways of trying a method of biohacking. Is diet really to hack biology is diverse and vast. It BIOHACKING AND that effective? It remains to be seen as also can be tricky to understand all the SKIN CARE how much collagen is rebuilt specifi- types of biohacking that are currently When looking at how biohacking cally for the skin from food alone. But, being practiced. Understanding how is being used in skin care, it is impor- adding organic protein, fruits and biohacking relates to traditional medi- tant to look at what professionals vegetables, and clean supplements will cine versus the types that may make would consider common knowledge most likely leave an individual feel- one question how legal or safe they are for antiaging. ing amazing and looking even better.

64 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 65 Ingesting skin-building allies is always a when biohacking the skin are emulsi- good idea. fiers, dioxins, parabens, and phthalates. Dry brushing is another way to Upon further research, most biohackers biohack the skin. Removing dead skin feel the same. cells allows for new ones to surface. Most suggest cleansing the skin Dry brushing before a warm shower with an emulsifier-free cleanser to start stimulates the skin and cleansing washes the day. Some emulsifiers can cause away the toxins. drying in the skin, essentially work- Hormonal imbalance plays a key ing as a binder. Ideally, skin should be role in the health of the skin. External slightly acidic, so a pH around 5.5. factors that can have a major effect Emulsifiers can weaken the skin’s im- on hormones are nutrition, exercise, munity by bringing it to a pH of six quality of sleep, mindfulness, and to seven – neutral. When the skin is gratitude. All of these contribute to slightly acidic, it has the ability to fight positive changes in the skin and body. off pathogens. Common names for Of course, emotional stress, poor sleep emulsifiers are polysorbate, stearate, quality, alcohol, poor diet, smoking, and steareth, cetearyl, and ceteareth. Mois- excessive sun exposure lead to hormone turizing the skin replaces the natural and skin problems. This is common oils stripped while cleansing. Some do knowledge. Taking a healthy, positive not recommend a sunscreen, but it EFFECTIVE. CLEAN. BEAUTIFUL. approach to one’s emotional state and is a god idea to apply sunscreen and how one treats one’s self and others will recommend it to clients to protect from PROFESSIONAL SKIN CARE. undeniably improve how one feels. harmful ultraviolet rays. Of course, a deep cleanse in the evening is an BEST PRACTICES absolute must. Biohackers recommend One blog discussing biohacking exfoliation in the evening as well. This suggests that the morning is the oppor- is also the time to use a clay mask. This tune time to nourish and energize the is not too different from what most IF YOU’RE INTERESTED IN PARTNERING WITH SORELLA APOTHECARY, PLEASE REACH OUT TO THE FOLLOWING: body and that the ingredients to avoid professionals already teach their clients. [email protected] www.sorellaapothecary.com 1.800.253.0450

66 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 The general message – clean products Lastly, phthalates, dissolving treatment with meditation in mind, NEW GENERATION OF IPL SYSTEM WITH are better. agents, are highly toxic and cancer- as well. Dioxin, an emulsifier byproduct causing ingredients that do not belong A treatment to utilize in the spa is known as 1,4-dioxane, is also on the in products used. a skin treatment designed for biohack- do-not-use list of biohackers. Dioxins ing of the skin. The focus is creating ZEMITS LIGHT EXPERT have been linked to causing problems a type of sound therapy, meditative with reproduction, development, and INCORPORATING music, or sound. Use headphones if the immune system. BIOHACKING IN working in a shared space. Perform a 6 POPULAR TREATMENTS Parabens are chemical preserva- THE SPA very detailed facial massage focusing on tives used to increase the life of prod- How can a skin care profes- stimulating the muscles and rebuilding ucts. Some other names for parabens sional use biohacking in their treat- collagen and elastin, including the neck IN ONE RELIABLE SYSTEM are methylparaben, propylparaben, ment room? Creating a red LED light and dêclottê. Then finish the treatment ethylparaben, or butylparaben. Para- therapy treatment with the focus on the with red LED light therapy. Hair Removal Pigmentation Reduction bens are known endocrine disruptors, benefits of biohacking can be a nice For a medical spa, cryotherapy so for biohackers, this would be a big add-on to any menu. Three-dimension- would be a great addition. Intravenous Skin Rejuvenation Wrinkle Treatment no-no. Disrupting the function of the al body scanning has become popular drips can deliver supplements directly Acne Treatment Rosacea Treatment endocrine system is a step in the wrong amongst the biohacking community. into the body, and then there is the direction for biohacking. Adding a virtual float tank could be a young blood transfusion. Blood is col-

THERE ARE SO MANY DIFFERENT METHODS TO BIOHACKING FOR HEALTHY SKIN. HERE ARE SOME ADDITIONAL COMMON BIOHACKING METHODS.

▶▶ Drink organic vegetables in smoothies. their breathing. A cold shower is a fantastic way ▶▶ Exercise daily, getting the blood flowing and the to incorporate this therapy at home. After a heart rate up. warm shower, take the last couple of minutes and ▶▶ Limit the amount of toxins consumed or put on make the water cold. A more clinical approach the body. would be cryotherapy. ▶▶ Keep products natural and clean. ▶▶ Grounding, also known as earthing, is another ▶▶ Meditate to calm the mind and give the body method used by biohackers. Humans are walking a reset. energy and the thought that one needs to ground ▶▶ Get more light. Skin care professionals have cli- one’s self to feed or heal tissue is a standard ents that hide from the sun, but it is very impor- for biohackers. As humans evolve, technology tant to get natural vitamin D – in small doses, of evolves, as well. Humans surround themselves course. Biohackers also love red light – just do not with cellphones, computer screens, and lights, overdo it. It is amazing what vitamin D can do which gives biohackers the opinion that the body for one’s emotional state, as well. does not have the time to detoxify. Something as ▶▶ Oxygenate the body. Deep controlled breaths simple as walking barefoot, physically connecting allow for oxygen to move through the entire to the earth, can be a form of grounding. Biofield body. It can also create calm when in a stressful tuning is another method of reconnecting or situation. grounding to the earth.

▶▶ Cold therapy is another popular method for bio- ▶▶ Sleep. Biohackers suggest getting more sleep is FIND OUT HOW TO BOOST hackers. It can improve the immune system, integral to overall health and antiaging. Quality YOUR SPA WITH LIGHT EXPERT TODAY as well as decrease inflammation. It has also sleep recharges the body and decreasing light Call us to get yours been said that cold therapy is a way to learn to exposure before going to bed helps move the 888.999.3996 zemits.com advance.esthetic control stress. The shock of cold water is not body into a deep sleep faster. Setting the phone comforting, but when repeated, the individual and computer to transition away from blue light gains control of their stress response through as evening approaches helps eyes adjust. Free trainings Print Social Media Five Star 2-Year for your team Marketing Material Templates Treatment Warranty

68 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 tions. Without knowing a client’s full medical background, giving nutritional advice may not be the best decision. Living a healthy lifestyle and recom- mending natural, clean products and how to use them is what clients rely on skin care professionals for. Biohacking is a very interesting way for one to take control of one’s body and mind.

Courtney La Marine has been a licensed aesthetician since 2006 and continues to grow and learn in the skin care industry every day. She is based in Denver, Colorado and owns Clove Studios. She has worked with many skin care and wax lines as head of education. Working with top resort spas and destination hotels has allowed La Marine to create a unique approach to how skin care is presented to clients. Not only does she have a skin care studio in lected from donors between the age of Incorporating biohacking into a Denver, she also takes clients in Uvita, Costa Rica 16 and 25 and used in a transfusion regimen at home seems somewhat easy, and researches new ingredients for a fresh take on to an older client. This treatment can but may also take some willpower and skin care. La Marine is a result-driven professional cost anywhere from $8,000 to $12,000 dedication on the client’s part. who loves what she does, creates unique treatments and unfortunately does not have a lot for each client, and wants to give clients the skin of supporting research. This is a very TAKING CONTROL they deserve. Staying current with new trends, in- controversial treatment and may be on As far as educating clients, it is novative ingredients, and the latest technologies is of a temporary hold by the FDA. important to stay within license regula- the upmost importance to her.

70 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 a journey into skin care: Columbia SkinCare's Steven Rosenfeld

72 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 73 A PASSION FOR MUSIC While still in middle school, I My love for music continued and began my first job delivering the local, I began studying the guitar; before daily newspaper on my bicycle before long, I was playing the bass in a local going to class. I enjoyed this work as it garage band. The community where I provided me the opportunity to get to lived was home to quite a few suc- know many of my neighbors, as well cessful musicians and bands, some of as to find additional work on weekends whom became mentors to me and my – like cutting the grass or doing some fellow bandmates. These included Jay handywork around the homes in the and the Americans, The Tokens, and a neighborhood. member of the E Street Band. During my high school years, I At age 16, I too wanted to have assisted a neighbor who sold encyclope- a career in music. Our band played MY EARLY YEARS learning about other people and trying dias. I would help her carry her sample in local clubs and we signed a “spec” As the son of the international to be understanding and considerate of set of books to her appointments and, deal with a record label, meaning that opera star Rosina DeStefano, it was their beliefs has made my life’s journey eventually, she included me in her the label would pay for our studio time no wonder thatM I have had a lifelong a highly rewarding one. presentations. She would ask me to to record a demo for their evaluation. passion for music. Also, at a very young Whether it was volunteering to demonstrate how I used the encyclo- These were indeed exciting times for age, I was exposed to a considerable assist a physically challenged classmate pedias to help me with my homework a teenager, but my performing career amount of travel. The combined in getting to school each morning or assignments. Together, we sold enough was cut short when the record com- exposure to the two has contributed becoming a school crossing guard, I encyclopedias to enable me to receive a pany wanted the band to go on tour greatly to my interest in people and found a great sense of satisfaction in complete set for use in my college stud- and my parents felt that my education their quality of life. Being interested in assisting others in any way I could. ies at no cost. would be compromised. It was not until attending college three years later that I became reac- quainted with the music industry. In order to earn spending money while in school, I took a job writing liner notes on record album covers. This job included perks, including free tickets to concerts, record albums, and even some backstage passes. After a few months, I was hooked and I knew that the music business representing studio musicians who was for me. I switched my major to often perform on the recordings but THE CAREGIVING the study of acoustics, which led to who do not tour with the artists. This COMMUNITY apprenticeships with engineers and was not a very glamourous part of As I became more engaged in other behind-the-scenes influencers. the business. Within a few years, I working with Music Cares, I met Then came my biggest break – a job had offices in New York, Los Angeles, people from other disciplines who as the road manager for a recording and London. This was my passion for were also providing health services to star who was to appear at Woodstock. nearly two decades and I was getting the music community. These health ser- And, there I was tuning her guitar on more involved in music as therapy. As vices included yoga, massage therapy, the main stage. Understandably, this a founding member of Music Cares, meditation, and mindfulness. It was experience was a game changer for a nonprofit organization and part of during this time that I met some of the me. I saw firsthand how music touched the National Academy of Recording most interesting and creative people the lives of nearly 500,000 people Arts and Sciences, I helped pioneer this who were also caregivers. This was during three days of being outdoors vital organization that helps musicians my earliest exposure to the caregiving in the rain and mud without adequate in need. Today, Music Cares continues community in the emerging health and food or water. Soon after Woodstock, I to provide medical services, financial wellness oriented spa industry. formed my own management com- assistance, and shelter for members of It was around this time that I pany and focused my business on the music industry. received an offer to sell my business –

74 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 75 ton Sturtevant in 1871. The Sturtevant has helped make production more gies. We feel strongly about the future ways to improve the care of our target family is one of the least known, yet efficient, while keeping us in charge of of probiotics in healthcare and the audiences, the increased efforts to im- one of the country’s most impactful, the manufacturing process. results of our research has confirmed prove sustainability of ingredients, and families in their contributions to the In keeping our domestic produc- the many advantages this technology the increased use of recyclable and economic growth of the United States. tion more efficient, we are able to offers in terms of efficacy, safety, and recycled packaging materials. Some of The family arrived here in the 1640s continue producing all of our products cost effectiveness. these products are already available for and engaged in diverse industries, in the United States using current The 10 year plan enacted in 2000 use, while others will be introduced in including the automobile industry, steel good manufacturing practice proce- also included the creation of four the coming 18 to 24 months and will mills, combustion motors manufactur- dures and maintaining our standards separate divisions in our company. be all of our product categories. ing, and tool and dye making, among of quality control. We are also able These include animal health (Stur- others. In addition, numerous mem- to utilize “just in time” manufactur- tevant’s Veterinary Products), con- WHAT THE FUTURE bers of the Sturtevant family have been ing, which assures us of having fresh sumer products, professional skin care HOLDS writers, illustrators, painters, physi- inventory to deliver to our customers. products (Columbia SkinCare), and As I am completing a new 10 cians, educators, scientists, soldiers, In addition, having more space and biotechnology research (Columbia year plan to take us to the year 2030, I ministers, and musicians. resources for product research has BioLabs). These four divisions share am also thinking about my inevitable By the early 1900s, the F.C. Sturte- helped us in the development of our common goals that include the devel- retirement. While many folks my age vant Company was a leading pharma- proprietary topical probiotic technolo- opment and implementation of new are already retired, I continue to have ceutical company and the Columbia a passion for the work being done brand was a national brand known for here and a strong desire to contribute its quality, safety, and value. to the efforts being made to improve Working for this company for the health and wellness of the planet more than 20 years has been the and all of its inhabitants. My strong highlight of my life’s work. I did not personal beliefs in the One Health know it back in 1998 when I joined the Initiative are now part of the mantra company that I would be a part of an of this company as well. industry disrupting, skin care para- The new plan we will implement digm changing leadership team that for the next decade will include our would launch a product line of topical brand expansion into new product cat- probiotic-based treatments that would egories and the incorporation of new successfully and safely treat numerous technologies in treating disease states. skin conditions while also enhancing We will likely have some strategic alli- the skin renewal process. ances in order to make our global ex- Over the years I served as direc- pansion plans obtainable. We will also tor of sales, president, and now CEO. be increasing our product offerings to which I accepted. I was asked to join a from foreign competition and an During the past two decades, I have include full-body treatments, deodor- startup, over-the-counter, pharmaceuti- emerging offshore private label pro- helped steer this company from being ants, and sun protection technologies cal company as vice president of sales duction industry, which was being focused on manufacturing products – all based on the platforms developed and marketing with equity and the utilized by American companies seek- under other brand names to focusing at our Columbia BioLabs division. opportunity to learn a new discipline. ing lower costs in countries where labor on diversifying the Columbia SkinCare While I may be retired before the In just two years, the company was was cheap and regulations lax. The brand to become a broad-spectrum next 10 year plan is implemented, I acquired and I was once again able to F.C. Sturtevant Company was commit- brand, serving skin care profession- am active in our recruitment of the pursue new opportunities. After provid- ted to producing all of their products als and consumers alike. I also led the new leadership teams who will sustain ing consulting services to a number of in the United States and company effort to expand our research division, this enterprise. It has been a fantastic different consumer product and service managers were facing difficult deci- Columbia BioLabs, internationally. experience to have worked with so companies, I had an opportunity to sions. I was brought in to help evaluate I developed a 10 year plan in many talented people for such an ex- work at The F.C. Sturtevant Company their options. 2000 that would replace much of our tended period of time. I am so grateful as special assistant to the president. The F.C. Sturtevant Company has manufacturing space with research that we have prospered and contrib- been family-owned and -operated for laboratories that could focus more uted to the development of products THE F.C. STURTEVANT over a century and it was a pioneer in on product development. To ensure new technologies which enhance the COMPANY the science of antiseptics. Originally continued control over the production quality of life for so many people dur- I joined the company in July of located in Hartford, Connecticut, the of our products, I created the time ing my time here at The F.C. Sturte- 1998, as it was facing cost challenges company was founded by Francis Cray- share concept for manufacturing. This vant Company.

76 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 77 skin heroes

Check out a few latest and greatest products from FARMHOUSE FRESH Illumination Fruit Brightening Fruit Acid Peel Mask is industry favorites! a professional strength mask that uses naturally exfoliating alpha hydroxy acids to dramatically renew skin vibrance and deliver ridiculously smooth texture from the first use. A 15% blend of acids, papain, blackberry, aronia fruit, and fermented lemon help brighten and more. farmhousefreshgoods.com

REPÊCHAGE The Repêchage LED Radio Frequency and EMS Skin Tightening Machine is a non-invasive alternative to costly machines and include five different modalities (led light therapy, electrical muscle stimulation, radio frequency, electroporation, and mesoporation). Painless and requiring no recovery time, this device is beneficial for all skin types and is suitable for the eye contour area, face, neck, and body. repechage.com

DERMAWARE BIO-TARGETED SKIN CARE Bare Fruit Mask Set is loved by professionals and customers alike, this enzyme mask is like no other, as it is non-acidic, soothing, redness removing, and an excellent skin exfoliator for medical and spa applications. This mask treats DR. DENNIS GROSS SKIN CARE acne, rosacea, pigmentation, aging and sensitive skin. dermaware.com B3 Adaptive SuperFoods Rescue Super Serum is formulated with microencapsulated superfoods, adaptogens, and niacinamide (vitamin B3) to help skin recover from stress-induced damage. Potent maitake mushroom, macaroot, cacao, and goji berry help skin quickly recover from stress to boost radiance, smooth worry lines, reduce imperfections, and strengthen the skin barrier. drdennisgross.com

March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 79 scope this

THE PROS OF PROBIOTICS by Dawn Clifford, director of global education at GLOWBIOTICS Probiotic Skincare

here is a lot of hype surrounding probiotics and the benefits they offer when used in skin care products. But what exactly are these bacteria-filled actives and are they beneficial topically? Simply put, probiotics are microorganisms that naturally live on the surface of the skin, creating a protective veil referred to as Tthe skin’s microbiome. When the microbiome is in balance, it helps offset factors that can negatively influence skin causing redness, breakout, dryness, and a weakened barrier that quickly shows signs of aging. Research has identified the importance of gut bacteria and this has led to a vast increase in development and near obsession with probiotic supplements, foods, and drinks, for example kombucha, kimchi, and kefir. Although oral consumption of probiotics may prove to be helpful, the skin has its own unique flora and has been shown to benefit from targeted skin care. Probiotic skin care, however, does have its challenges. Probiotics are live bacteria needing refrigeration. Thus, we are seeing the use of postbiotics, a derivative of probiotics known as lysates, as they do not need a cooler temperature to stay viable. Another complexity is that each person has a different need in terms of their skin microflora and that microflora is inherently different in different environments on the skin.

KEEPING THE MICROFLORA OF SKIN BALANCED CAN: • strengthen the skin’s surface against environmental threats • enhance the skin’s ability to become and stay properly hydrated • diminish factors that trigger sensitized, reddened skin • visibly improve signs of dryness, including a tight, uncomfortable feeling • restore a healthy pH balance to the skin’s surface

What is even more fascinating is that probiotics and postbiotics seem to work in harmony with other skin care ingredients. As the probiotics break down on the skin’s surface, they stimulate the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamins, as well as increase the presence of ceramides. This, in turn, leads to diminished signs of aging, better hydration, and a radiance that is visible proof of the skin’s renewed vitality.

March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 81 scope this scope this WHAT IS AESTHETIC TAPING AND HOW DOES IT WORK by Nataly Wave, aesthetic taping instructor

esthetic taping is a very interesting and af- fordable antiage therapeutical method. It is not a “magic patch”– it is physics and math- ematics, where all the magic is in the skin care professional’s hands. Taping is an area Aof desmurgy referring to the elastic bandaging. Aesthetic taping mainly uses the kinesiological tapes that are the THESE LIPS ARE SEALED: elastic cotton bands with a wave-like, hypoallergenic ad- hesive coating on one side. Such application is important ACHIEVING SEMI-PERMANENT COLOR so that the trophic skin properties are not disturbed. At the production stage, the tape with glue is applied to a paper substrate with a slight tension. WITH LIP BLUSHING Aesthetic taping helps remove wrinkles, fight by Micah Kopchenko, editorial assistant at DERMASCOPE Magazine puffiness, and initialize the regeneration processes. The tape is used superficially and epidermally: while slightly lifting the epidermis, establishing more space, enhancing microcirculation in the soft tissues, and reducing pressure emi-permanent and permanent treatments for factors. Lip blushing typically lasts for three to five years on the pain receptors; while shifting the epidermis, eyebrows, eyeliner, and freckles have made and can cost upwards of $700, depending on the amount affecting the muscles and nervous system through the debuts within the last few years, but now the of pigment needed and custom mixing. fascial connections; and while providing segmental trend has continued to include the lips. Lip blushing requires an expert, as choosing an ac- effects (the trigger zones and biologically active points). The term lip blushing refers to the new, curate color can be tough to identify. Many professionals The scope of taping application is extensive, Sinnovative way to give lips the appearance of a semi- reiterate that the final color of the lip is determined by the including physiotherapy, neurology, pediatrics, reflexology, permanent gloss or light color. Clients can choose from a natural underlying shade of the lips, which can determine and rehabilitation – not to mention cosmetology. Taping variety of shades that custom matches their unique skin how dark the pigment will appear. In many cases, lip is perfect in that it can be combined with almost all tone. The most popular colors stay within a subtle pink, blushing takes time to transition into the finished result, aesthetic medical methods and it assists in rehabilitation coral, or red and are custom blended by the professional. as lips may peel and appear darker for a few weeks before after plastic, dental, and abdominal surgeries. Obviously, application disturbs the skin trophism. The objective is to Many lip blushing professionals are licensed aestheticians transitioning into the finished tint. it is used in sports and body demonstrations, as an improve nourishment, benefit the lymphatic system, and or professional makeup artists who compare lip blushing The upside to lip blushing is that it is suitable for all art object when a picture is created using the tapes. begin regeneration, such as the permanent micromas- results to that of a sheer lip stain for a flawless, finished skin tones and requires less frequent touch-ups com- Applications are used not only for decoration, but also as sage, segmental effects, and easy regular peeling. appearance. pared to other semi-permanent cosmetic treatments. a functional load. Prior to tape application, it is advisable to activate Lip blushing allows for a soft and natural look, while Clients may choose lip blushing over injections due The tapes stimulate all processes, so the main the processes that are desired to initiate, such as certain enhancing lips to appear more defined in shape. And, with to its lasting results and less risk of toxicity. Lip blushing contraindications are impaired skin and inflammatory and muscle relaxation, improvement of blood circulation and this trend on the rise, some suggest it could replace lip professionals can enhance lips to look fuller and plumped infectious processes. A very common question is what microcirculation in the soft tissues, and stimulation of injections all together. The procedure is not painful and based on the shade and pronouncement of the client’s are the consequences of attaching the plaster? What is biologically active points. The tape is a continuation of the only requires a mild, topical numbing agent. Similar to mi- lips. Some professionals compare it to overlining the lips the difference? The difference is fundamental. The plaster skin care professional’s hands. The new tissue position croblading, the pigment is custom mixed to match the cli- with lipstick or liners in order to give the appearance of is not stretchy; therefore, there is congestion and green- is read by the fascia, helping the internal doctor and ent’s color choice. The treatment can take anywhere from fuller lips, giving clients another reason to skip out on house instead of stimulation, since the continuous glue commencing the regeneration process. an hour and a half to two hours, depending on a variety of injections or fillers.

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ing levels in midlife produce prema- ture aging as compared with similarly aged men. Hormones affect skin and MANAGING THE health as one ages – more than most may realize. Hormones are biochemical messengers that influence numerous EFFECTS OF functions in the body. The hormonal disruptions affect memory, cognition, focus, aging, sleep, sex drive, and MENOPAUSE metabolism. Hormones also play a role in bone growth, sugar regulation, by Karen Asquith, L.E., national director of GM Collin and cardiovascular health. As an individual ages, the production of certain hormones like estrogen, progesterone, and ave you ever wondered are fortunate; approximately 10% carried out day after day. Now, con- testosterone change, which affects about the effects meno- stop menstruating without any pre- sider skin cells in the same fashion. the skin. pause has on the skin? menopausal menstrual irregularity, For example, most everyone can When women reach menopause, Most skin care profes- nor do they experience any of the un- relate to feeling sleep deprived. Most the results of these three diminishing sionals have worked with comfortable symptoms associated have difficulty focusing, performing hormones become more evident Hclients that have relatively good skin during menopause. This, however, is their jobs, and dealing with the daily on skin. and seem to be aging graciously, a dream for many who find meno- activities normally carried out. Skin Estrogen is very involved in then suddenly the skin begins to pause intolerable. cells are the same. If they do not the normal function of the skin. It exhibit increased dryness, loss of Approximately 57% of women receive all they require to be healthy, directly affects the function of key tone, breakouts, and other conditions suffer with several menopausal the cells are not able to function at cells in the skin, like the fibroblasts, in a seemingly short amount of time. symptoms and, of these, 22% report their optimum level. keratinocytes, melanocytes, and What exactly is happening inside the they require medication to func- Every cell in the body has a ge- sebaceous glands. body to bring on these changes? tion. The other 43% experience only netic blueprint that is responsible to Cells in the skin have estrogen disrupted periods.3 replicate the cell when it divides. The receptors which await instructions STATS AND SYMPTOMS As demographics change, the blueprint is formed from the genes estrogen delivers. When estrogen First let us look at some statis- cosmetics industry moves toward that are inherited. begins to disappear, those messages tics and symptoms of menopause. embracing the inevitable aging of its As an individual progresses and are not delivered and consequently Currently there are about 37.5 million customers. The over 50s and aging ages, mutations can occur arising the actions are not carried out. This women reaching menopause, the Baby Boomers are driving the de- from both intrinsic and extrinsic loss of estrogen causes an increased average age being 51 years; however, mand for highly functional skin care factors. Think about a photocopier loss of collagen and elastin, gly- the ages can range from 40 years to adapted for their specific needs. and how many copies it can make cosaminoglycan, and a decrease in estrogen are important. This will help Skin care professionals have 58 years.1 before it begins to run out of ink dermal strength and thickness. The to preserve the skin tone and assist many ingredients to restore hormon- As the average life expectancy HORMONAL CHANGES AND and make less than perfect replicas skin become drier and fine lines and in reducing the lines and wrinkles. ally challenged skin to ensure the for women increases, now being THE SKIN of the original document. Flaws wrinkles are more predominant. Working on the structural integrity skin does not divulge the transitions upwards of 85, as does their post- Although genes govern a lot become more pronounced until it is As estrogen levels decrease, of the skin with peptides that stimu- that are going on within. menopausal lifespan. Assuming about a skin type, when it comes to completely out of ink and unable to the effects of testosterone may late collagen and elastin should also most women begin menstruation at aging, both external and intrinsic fac- make another copy. also become evident, presenting as be included. References 1 “Menopause: Women’s Reproductive Health.” Centers 12 years old and menopause at 51, tors determine how skin ages, says But what many do not real- increased facial hair and, in some Hyaluronic acid, an important for Disease Control and Prevention. they have 39 menstrual years and the American Academy of Dermatol- ize is that, on top of changes that cases, the development of acne. glycosaminoglycan, is also needed http://www.cdc.gov/reproductivehealth/WomensRH/ Menopause.htm. 34 or more menopausal and post- ogy (AAD). Intrinsic aging refers to are directly due to aging, hormonal to retain the moisture content and 2 “Menopause Statistics.” Zimbio. menopausal years being about 50% the physiological changes that the changes associated with meno- plump the skin to enhance the ap- http://www.zimbio.com/Menopause+And+Hormones/ THE PROFESSIONAL’S ROLE articles/12/Menopause+Statistics. of their life.2 body undergoes during this process. pause cause additional problems for It is imperative that skin care pearance of the skin thickness. Cell 3 “Menopause: symptoms, cause, treatment, complica- Menopause is defined as the It may be more relatable if indi- the skin. recommendations directly address turnover must also be addressed tions, risk, statistics, long-term outlook.” Mama’s Health. absence of a menstrual cycle for 12 viduals think of themselves as one Estrogen levels strongly influ- this hormonal disruption. Products with actives such as alpha hydroxy 4 Cates, Trevor. “How Hormones Affect Your Skin and consecutive months. Some women big cell and the numerous functions ence skin integrity; therefore, the fall- that contain ingredients that mimic acids and retinols. Health As You Age.” Aug 22.

THIS OR THAT APRIL UNDERNEATH IT ALL: SERUM VERSUS AFFIRMATIONS: AMPOULE TAKING SCALP EXFOLIATION BACK World Health Day TO ITS ROOTS and National Stress by Alice Pichery, L.E., spa retail coach, and founder of The SPAcialist Awareness Day

hy do skin care his coming April two important holidays professionals go the will take place. On April 7, World Health extra mile for skin Day’s celebration begins. Founded in 1948 but not for the scalp? by the World Health Organization (W.H.O.), The scalp, after all, is this day is for raising awareness over Wan extension of the skin. Skin care Tthe importance of global healthcare. With events professionals are the first ones to SERUM throughout the world, this educate clients on the importance Serums are packed with high concentrations day is recognized as a way to of exfoliating and removing dead of active ingredients to help address specific discuss and bring awareness cells and that cleansing the face is skin needs. They are typically lightweight and to topics like public health not the same as exfoliating – just gel-like and can be incorporated as a regular issues, diseases, mental like shampooing is not the same as part of a skin care routine. health, and many more. Spa exfoliating. So, let’s start applying and skin care profession- this concept to the scalp. als can utilize this day as a Let’s go back to basics and AMPOULE time to discuss with clients, observe the similarity between the Ampoules are formulated with even higher social media followers, and scalp and skin and the essential truth concentrations of active ingredients than more how their health is of the utmost importance that the scalp really is an extension serums, but are typically only used as a for maintaining balanced skin. This day is also a good of skin. The difference is made by boost, at short durations. They tend to be way for skin care professionals to share the benefits the thickness of the hair that grows more intensive and used to achieve more of non-toxic beauty and skin care products that can on it. Scalp is skin, so it witnesses dramatic, short-term results. benefit clients. This is an easy first step to achieving the same process of cell renewal and to scalp irritation and suffocation, A mechanical scrub with natural cleaner and better skin care regimens. pigmentation and is affected by the damaging the skin barrier and pos- beads is widely spread, but not the National same factors that affect the health sibly causing inflammation through only form of scalp exfoliation. Some Stress Awareness and beauty of skin. the transcutaneous penetration of clients might prefer to explore an Day begins on The number one reason to these pollutants. This accumulation acid-based (salicylic acid or alpha April 16 and was exfoliate the scalp is the cell renewal also comes from clogging the pores hydroxy acid) liquid solution, absorb- founded to bring process of the scalp – involving that and preventing optimal penetration ing powders, foam, or both scrub awareness to there are dead skin cells present. An of beneficial hair active ingredients and foam. Some products are even mental health and imbalance in scalp cell renewal can into the hair follicle. formulated for both scalp and body. DICTIONARY the degenerative lead to dandruff or flakes. It is, therefore, essential to ex- Most scalp exfoliants combine with DEFINITIONS effects stress has Also, the scalp is subject to foliate the scalp, as to recover a bal- the exfoliating benefits of either a on the body and mind. Many participate in this day by both internal and external pollution: anced and healthy scalp, as well as purifying or soothing action, accord- relaxing and taking the day off from a stressful job or because a hair follicle is always at- allowing further treatments to better ing to concern. The scalp exfoliation CUTIBACTERIUMACNES environment. It could be a good time to discount mas- tached to a sebaceous gland, scalps penetrate in the hair follicle, where is usually followed by shampoo. sages, relaxing facials, reiki, and other spa treatments. can be subject to hyperseborrhea. On the hair is produced, for a long-term New needs mean new oppor- Formerly Propionibacterium Spa and skin care professionals can take advantage top of the overproduction of sebum, stronger and revitalized hair. Healthy tunities. Start thinking about how to acnes (P.acnes), a gram-positive, of this day by identifying the physical and mental pollutants (microparticles, dust, and scalp equals healthy hair. incorporate this new service in spa anaerobic bacterium of the stressors in their lives, as well as developing coping chemicals) accumulate more on the Brands have become very cre- services. And, if not in the treatment human acneskin vulgaris.flora linked to mechanisms for anxiety and other stress triggers. scalp, and pro-inflammatory yeasts ative at offering a variety of textures room, this still opens the door to may over-proliferate, which can lead and complementary benefits. massive retail potential.

pose or recycle it. Do not forget to clean it first though. Those cardboard 5 WAYS TO MAKE YOUR boxes a new handheld device came in – break them down and recycle them. Keep it out of the garbage and AESTHETIC PRACTICE it is a win for everyone. ADD PLANTS TO THE TREAT- MENT ROOM MORE GREEN They look pretty, they make people happy, and they clean the air. No by Antonia Schreiber, L.M.T., cosmetologist, and electrologist light or low light? No problem – get a snake plant, angel fern, or pathos. They need barely any light at all to live happily. Just water and enjoy. e live in a world where is trying to be more environmentally about how individuals consume and being environmentally sound, from big box stores to mom live their daily lives. As aestheticians, USE ORGANIC AND BIODY- line if necessary. Even if it is one no need to dive in headfirst, but it will minded is not only and pop shops in small town United that means making little decisions NAMIC PRODUCTS product at a time, make a change not hurt either. a necessity for the States. Reduce, reuse, and recycle regularly within the aesthetics prac- It seems like this would be a to supporting companies that are health of the planet, are part of everyday vernacular. tices that have a big impact on the given to greening a practice but use healthier for clients and the environ- Starting with these five simple Wbut it also happens to be a very hip Being green at the end of the day is environment. You may not realize it, organic and biodynamic skin care ment. It can be more costly to go steps, any spa can make an effort to and marketable practice. Everyone about making conscious decisions but there is a good chance you are products at every chance. Commit to organic, so take baby steps and start be greener and have a long-lasting im- already one step ahead of the game going green and swap out an entire with one product at a time. There is pact on clients and the environment. to having a greener practice. Here are five simple ways to make an aesthetics practice greener overnight.

USE LESS COTTON

Every facial uses tons of cotton FREEupcoming webinar and where does it end up? In the trash – used once and chucked. This March 16 is a horrifying practice. Keep cotton (gauze, pellon, and paper products) Probiotic Skin Care: A New Paradigm for to a minimum. Invest in some good Healing & Protecting Skin towels instead or use reusable cot- by Steven Rosenfeld, CEO of the F.C. Sturtevant Company ton baby diapers (without the liner) Join Columbia Skin Care in this webinar over the brief history of probiotics that will bring professionals up-to-date on the technology and as half of towels because they are inherent benefits of incorporating probiotic treatments into a skin care smaller, so they take up less room regimen. This webinar will also offer specific treatment options and in the washer, and they are super discuss the distinction between probiotic products in their formula- tion, safety use, and efficacy. durable. March 23 SWITCH INCANDESCENT Holistic Healing: Understanding and LIGHT BULBS TO LED This allows the spa to pay less Treating Mature Skin by Gina Marie McGuire, L.E., president of GINAMARIE Products and on its electric bill and uses way less Continuing Educations, Inc. energy. The bulbs also happen to Today, more than ever, men and women are concerned about prema- live as long as a human, so they will ture aging and are looking for a quick fix to stop the hands of time, not need to be switched often. while still wanting to take a holistic approach. Before this can be accomplished, the professional must have a clear understanding of what happens within the skin as it ages, know their limitations, and then RECYCLE proceed on treating the skin. In this webinar, learn specific steps that Recycle whatever and whenever are necessary in achieving immediate, lasting results. possible. An empty mask jar – repur- Visit dermascope.com/aia/webinars to browse and register – they’re free!

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GREED OVER SERVICE: ETHICAL SERVICE PRACTICES by Amra Lear, L.E., L.MT.

rofessionals used to be licensed massage therapists to ap- the day, not because it will benefit the only ones to utilize ply eye treatments, lip treatments, the client. Some aestheticians, after tools and certain products and even a full face mask treatment they have performed a skin analy- within their treatments because it is just a mask and “I’m sis, knowing that their client does that clients were unable touching the skin when I massage not need more upgrades, will insist Pto purchase and use on themselves. anyways.” The integrity of performing that they need to have additional Now, the veil of professional use-only a skin care treatment is becoming upgrades to better treat their skin. has been lifted by the ever-growing disvalued by the ideal that it is only These unethical practices performed field of skin care and technology. a mask and disregards the ethical by licensed professionals, all for Tools like galvanic current, microcur- practice of providing services within monetary gain, is a conditioned sell rent, high frequency, steaming, and the spectrum of particular licenses. to pursue an increased collection the magnifying light, which were When spas and other places that into their bank. The integrity of the once only connected to one profes- offer skin care treatments see no professional is compromised – the sional unit, can be purchased sepa- harm in disregarding the knowledge benefit is only for the professional rately as a handheld device by con- and professional licensure that goes and not the client. sumers. Collagen masks that were into each aesthetician’s license all It is unfortunate that some once dry bovine sheets, activated by because they want to add more licensed professionals and spas a solution that was poured over the revenue to their bottom line by hav- choose such unethical practices. skin by a professional, are now found ing unlicensed aestheticians perform As a professional, it is their duty to pre-packaged and cut to fit most skin care treatments, they have sto- provide honest, ethical treatments face shapes. These at-home use len the identity of a professional who within their scope of practice. When and DIY practices by clients change has obtained the proper education licensed professionals, spas, and the way that professionals approach and licensure. businesses practice the highest their treatments and also stop some Then, there exists the aestheti- ethical standards and operate with clients from seeking professional cian that, before they even perform a integrity, each client that is a witness skin care therapy. skin analysis, they have upgraded the to these standards and operations Some spas are embracing client with the upgrades they want will always make their way back to this growing trend of pre-packaged to add to the treatment because it receive more treatments and will skin care sheets and allowing their will add more to their top dollar for bring others with them.

90 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 critical collections

5. Naturopathica Manuka Honey Cleansing Balm HONEY naturopathica.com 6. Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals Honey Paprika Mask HEALERS rhondaallison.com The use of honey in skin care has a long history 7. Saian Natural Clinical Skin Care of helping heal blemishes and scars, while Honey Vanilla Scrub simultaneously brightening skin to create a saian.net glow that no client can turn down. 5 8. Circadia Microexfoliating Honey Cleanser circadia.com

1. Pevonia Natural Skincare Rejuvenating Dry Skin Cream pevoniapro.com 8 2. DermAware Bio-Targeted Skin Care Be My Honey Mask dermaware.com 3. Sanitas Skin Care Milk and Honey Cleanser sanitas-skincare.com 4. Farmhouse Fresh Honey Heel Glaze farmhousefresh.com

92 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 93 13. Building collagen is a way to biohack the skin. New a. True b. False

packaging has 14. When the skin is slightly acidic it does not have launched! the ability to fight off pathogens. a. True b. False

15. ______are a full body overall detoxification or enhancement utilizing physical fitness. a. Pop-up spas the exam b. Bootcamps c. Rehabilitation d. Club spas The Exam is another way that AIA helps its members to continue their education. Visit DERMASCOPE.com to take the test online. If a 16. Cryotherapy allows the entire body or certain passing score is earned, a gold seal will be sent to you to add to your areas to be exposed to AIA continuing education certificate. The answers to this exam can be extreme cold. a. True found in the editorial content of this issue. b. False

17. Young blood transfusions 1. “Hydro” comes from the 5. The ______muscle is 9. Improved circulation are given by donors in be- Greek origin meaning one of the most difficult means more blood flow tween the ages of 18-29. “water” and “therapy.” to control. to muscles. a. True a. True a. procerus a. True b. False b. False b. corrugator b. False c. temporalis 18. Homecare routines can 2. Young blood transfu- d. digastric 10. Some _____ spas also constitute ______of results. sions change one’s biol- feature chiropractic pro- a. 55% ogy by pumping a young 6. Swimming in the ocean fessionals for hip and b. 67% person’s blood into the is not a form of hydro- spinal adjustments. c. 80% veins. therapy. a. club d. 93% a. True a. True b. medical b. False b. False c. day 19. _____ therapy is an aquatic d. retreat massage. ® ® ® 3. Skin is approximately 7. “Thalasso” comes from a. Watsu RapidLash , RapidShield and RapidBrow _____ water. the ______word meaning 11. ______are also known b. Zen a. 35% "sea." as bathhouses. c. Shiatsu for your own natural, healthier-looking b. 43% a. French a. Hot springs d. Thalasso c. 55% b. English b. Thermaes d. 62% c. Greek c. Thalassos 20. When toxins and _____ lashes and brows in just 4-6 weeks! d. Italian d. Watsus are flushed out, organs 4. ______have locations are revitalized. that extend across a 8. Emulsifiers can weaken 12. Polysorbate, stearate, a. stearates franchise network and the skin’s immunity by cetearyl, and ceteareth b. lactic acid can be regional, nation- bringing it to a pH of are all common names c. emulsifiers wide, or global. _____. for _____. d. phthalates a. Training schools a. 3 to 4 a. emulsifiers b. Membership spas b. 4 to 5 b. ceramides To take The Exam c. Salon spas c. 5 to 6 c. phthalates online, visit d. Resorts d. 6 to 7 d. toxins DERMASCOPE.com. RapidLash® can be used with lash extensions. rapidlash.com • 877-760-6677 March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 95 advertisers index

Company Name Page

Aesthetic International Association 89 Osmosis Beauty 61 balanced skin with probiotics Altair Instruments 49 Procell Therapies 44 BioFrance Lab 70 Professional Program Insurance Brokerage (PPIB) 66

BiON Research 26 Rejuvi Laboratory 59

Bio-Therapeutic 19 Repêchage 71

Celluma by BioPhotas 13 RevitaLash 25

Color Up Therapeutics 61 Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals 78

DERMASCOPE Magazine 6 RN FACES 57

DMK- Danné Montague King 61 ROCAUSBA (RapidLash) 94

Dr. Jeff Skin Care 60 Saian Natural Clinical Skin Care 39

Eminence Organic Skin Care 2-3, 31, 33 Silhouette Tone 32

Equibal Inc. (Nufree) 55 Skin Blends 45

Whole. Raw. Real. Skin Script Skin Care 47 Experience the difference FANIÉ International 46 between real pulps and extracts… Hale & Hush 54 Societe Clinical Skincare 15 and let your skin decide! HAWRYCH MD 91 Sorella Apothecary 67

Hempfield Botanicals 22, 61 Sothys USA 17 treat and prevent Herbal Skin Solutions 61 TAMA Research 27 The Wax Connection 89 Probiotics treat a wide range of skin conditions topically ilike organic skin care 31, 96 as they increase the natural healing and renewing Le Mieux Cosmetics 9 Virox Technologies Inc. 30 abilities of the skin by balancing its microbiome. LightStim 80 Vivant Skin Care 100

Combining probiotics with organic antioxidant-rich LYCON Wax USA 20, 31 Zemits by Advance-Esthetic 69 botanicals – such as Elderflower and Blackberry –, our Naturel Collagen 29 probiotic Serum, Moisturizer and Day & Night Treatment mask provide a multitasking supplement to treat the skin from continuous internal and external damaging effects, while slowing the aging process. Visit DERMASCOPE.com to find out more about the advertisers included within this issue. Experience overall skin condition improvement

celebrated in just 4 weeks!* POSTAL NOTIFICATION DERMASCOPE (issn# 1075-055X) is published monthly with a special issue in March by WES Publishing, 310 East Interstate 30, Suite B107, Garland, TX *reported by clinical studies Nr 498708-10/17/JSHH 75043. Periodical postage paid by USPS, Garland, Texas and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DERMASCOPE, 310 East Interstate 30, Suite B107, Garland, TX 75043. Your magazine cannot be forwarded without instruction from you. If your address changes, please inform us at least six weeks in advance. Some back issues are available for $7.50 each, postage and handling not included. DERMASCOPE, including artwork and logotypes published herin, are registered trademarks of Geneva Corporation of Texas. ilikeorganics.com 888.290.6238 No Animal Testing. No GMOs. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without permission. facebook.com/ilikeorganicskincare Vegetarian/Vegan. Gluten free. Nut free. March 2020 | DERMASCOPE.com 97 fact or fiction Does Waterproof Mascara Damage Eyelashes? by Amanda Azar Walsh, professional makeup artist, medical aesthetician, and body wrapper

Finding the perfect mascara formula is as difficult as finding the ultimate pair of jeans that fit just right. Some make eyelashes itchy, while others smudge under the eyes throughout the day. Trying multiple mascaras until the holy grail is found can irritate the eyes and drain the wallet. In an effort to get the product to stay put, many people opt for a waterproof formula for daily use to set it and forget it. But does waterproof mascara damage eyelashes? es to sleep with waterproof mascara on, they run the FOLLOW Waterproof mascara contains ingredients that are very drying risk of rolling over on a pillow, which can easily break for eyelashes, which is what makes it stay in place all day. Mascara those eyelashes. @DERMASCOPE is designed to make eyelashes Eyelashes are a very delicate stiffer, which causes them to be fiber and can take weeks to months brittle and more prone to break- to fully grow back once they fall age. Waterproof formulas make out (or get pulled out). Just like the Join in on exclusive giveaways, find hilariously eyelashes ultra-stiff and contain hair on the head, eyelashes require relatable memes, weigh in on hot topic extra waxes and silicone ingredients hydration and conditioning. Using conversations, read highlights of the latest that are resilient to tears, sweat, and waterproof mascara occasionally moisture. Excessively dry eyelashes will not cause significant damage to DERMASCOPE articles, and enjoy tend to fall out more frequently and eyelashes; however, that formula on behind-the-scenes fun experience more breakage. a daily basis will cause eyelashes to from Team DERMASCOPE! Another key factor when dry out and lead to further irritation, wearing waterproof mascara is ultimately damaging them. the makeup removal process. The Although regular use of ingredients in waterproof mascara waterproof mascara does damage cause stress to eyelash fibers and eyelashes, there are some alterna- make it more difficult to take off tive options. A regular mascara for- at the end of the day. It essentially mula that has tubing polymers will takes more effort and stronger protect eyelashes. Mascara primers cleansers to completely remove are also a good first step when from the face. Aggressive rubbing layering products. If one cannot find and pulling on the eyelash line will a primer, a regular mascara can be cause eyelashes to weaken over used and then topped off with the time and lead to other damage. waterproof formula. The additional At the end of a long day, the layer in between will help preserve last thing an individual wants to do the delicate eyelashes. is fight with their makeup to get a clean face. Sleeping If an individual cannot get around using their favorite water- with makeup on, especially mascara, can be detrimental proof mascara, it is important to use appropriate items to help to skin and more so to eyelashes. If a person choos- remove the product. Removing mascara with warm water and a gentle, oil-based cleansing solution is good. Bi-phase makeup remov- ers usually contain oils that break down waterproof formulas much easier than water-based alternatives. Also, carefully massaging the oily product for 15 to 20 seconds before giving it a rinse is ideal, as it will take some time to cut through the drying, waterproof ingredients.

98 DERMASCOPE.com | March 2020 expert.

REAL RESULTS COME FROM REAL CLINICAL WORK.

Vivant Skin Care formulator James E. Fulton, M.D., Ph.D., was a scientist, biochemist, and dermatologist. He authored more than 300 scientific papers, as well as the definitive skin care textAcne Rx. He is responsible for some of the most significant advances in modern skin care, including the three gold standards currently used in dermatology offices: Retin-A® (co-developer), stabilized benzoyl peroxide, and topical erythromycin.

Who formulated your skin care?

vivantskincare.com | 1.800.984.8268

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