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AS Roma, 126, 131 Business and shop hours, ATMs (automated teller 165–166 Index machines), 165 Bus travel, 163, 164 Index Auditorium-Parco della A Musica, 129 C Abbazia di San Nilo , 67, 93 Caffè Settimiano, 59 (Grottaferrata), 154 , 20, 64–67 Campidoglio (), Accademia di Santa Cecilia, Avis, 162 10, 23, 45 126, 129 Campo de’ Fiori, 13, 16, 39, Accommodations, 134–145. B 56, 57, 86 See also Accommodations Babysitting, 165 Campo Marzio Design, 88 Index Baja, 123 Canopus (Tivoli), 148 Aerophile 5500 Balloon Banking hours, 165 Capitoline Hill (Campidoglio), Ride, 92 BarBar, 116, 121 23, 45 Aesculapius, Temple of, 93 Barcaccia fountain, 62, 63 Capitoline Museum (Musei Agnes, St., statue of, 34 Bar Caffè dell’Appia Capitolini), 5, 31 Ai Monasteri, 87 Antica, 96 Capitoline she-wolf, 31 Airlines, 162 Bar Canova, 39 Capodanno (New Year), 160 toll-free numbers and Bar del Fico, 121 Capuchin Monks, Crypt of websites, 176–177 Bar della Pace, 53 the, 47 Alberta Ferretti, 76 Bar Marzio, 39 Caracalla, Baths of, 27, 67, Alexander Platz Jazz Club, Bars and lounges, 4, 5, 13, 126, 130 123 121–122 Caravaggio, 30, 31, 54, 61, 62 Alibi, 116, 123 Bar Stravinskij, 17 Car rentals, 162, 177 Alien, 122 Basilica di Santa Maria Car travel, 163 All Saints’ Day (Ognissanti), in Trastevere, 15, 58–59 Case Romane di Santi 160 , 25 Giovanni e Paolo, 47 Al Sogno, 88 , 67, 126, Cashpoints, 165 Amphitheater (Pompeii), 152 130 Castelgandolfo, 154 Ancient , 22–27 Baths of Porta Marina (Ostia Castelli Romani, 153–154 Anglo-American Book Co., 84 Antica), 150 Castel Sant’Angelo, 12, 53 Antoninus and Faustina, Beaches, 156–157 Castor and Pollux, Temple Temple of, 25 Beata Ludovica Albertoni of, 25 Apartment rentals, 165 (Bernini), 58 Castroni, 76, 85 Apartments (Ostia Antica), Bed & Breakfast Italia, 165 Catacombs, 97 150 Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 165 Jewish, 96 (Vatican Belvedere Torso, 50 of San Callisto, 46, 95 City), 50 Bernini, Gian Lorenzo, 6, 12, of San Sebastiano, 46, Apparel, 81–84 17, 30, 33–35, 38, 39, 42, 95–96 best, 76 55, 58, 61 Catacombs of San Callisto, 19 (Via Appia Bernini, Pietro, 63 Cavalieri dell’Appia Antica, 97 Antica), 4, 19, 94–96 Big Mama, 116, 123–124 Cavallini, Pietro, 15 Aqua Virgo, 62 Biking, 96 Cecilia, St., 15 Aqueduct ruins, 62, 63 rentals, 165 Cecilia Metella, Mausoleum Architecture, 172–174 tours, 100 of, 96 , 26 Bloom, 116, 121 Cellphones, 161–162 Arch of Septimius Boating, 17 Centrale Montemartini- Severus, 25 Boat tours and cruises, 20 Acea, 31 , 25 Bob’s Limousines & Tours, Cerveteri, 156, 157 Arcigay, 167 168 Chioschetto di , ArciLesbica, 167 Books, 84 116, 121 Area Sacra di Largo Borromini, Francesco, Christ Carrying the Cross COPYRIGHTEDArgentina, 57 33–35, 38, 54 MATERIAL(Michelangelo), 43 Armani Jeans, 81 Bottega Veneta, 76, 81 Christmas (Natale), 160 Arts and entertainment, Bowling, 124 Church of Sant’Angelo, 70 126–132 Bramante, Donato, 59, 61 Ciampino Airport, 163 best bets, 126 Brighenti, 86 Cinecittà, 130 cinemas, 130–131 Brioni, 81 Cinecittà World, 130 classical music, Brunswick Café, 124 Cinemas, 130–131 129–130 16_576143 bindex.qxd 8/23/05 12:05 AM Page 179

179 Index Circolo Mario Mieli di Cultura Embassies and consulates, G Omosessuale, 167 166 , 6, 16, Circo Massimo (Circus Max- Emergencies, 167 30, 35 imus), 5, 27, 66, 100 Energie, 76, 82 Galleria Doria Pamphilj, 55 Classical music, 126, Enjoy Rome, 95, 100, 165 , 57 129–130 Enoteca Cavour 313, 24 Gallery of the Maps (Vatican , 71 Epiphany, 161 City), 50 Coffee, best, 102 Estate Romana, 160 Garden Bar, 96 COIN, 76, 84 Ethic, 82 Gardens , 11, 26–27 Etò, 116, 121 Le Jardin du Russie, 45 Column of Marcus Etruscan Museum (Vatican Pincio gardens, 45 Aurelius, 55 City), 50 Vatican Gardens, 49 Constantine, 26 Etruscan Museum at Villa at , 93 Consulates, 166 Giulia, 30 Gay and lesbian travelers Corpus Christi, 160 Event listings, 167 information and Craftsmen’s Streets, 56 Eyewear, 85 resources, 167 Credit cards, 166 nightlife, 116, 123 Crypt of the Capuchin F Gelato, best, 102 Monks, 47 Family travel, 167 Gender, 123 C.U.C.I.N.A., 85 Fashions (clothing), 81–84 Gente, 76, 83 , 25 best, 76 Genzano, 154 Currency and currency Feltrinelli Libri e Musica, 84 Ghetto, Jewish, 20 exchange, 168 Ferragosto, 160 Ghezzi, 76, 87–88 Customs regulations, 166 Festa della Madonna della Gianicolo (Janiculum Neve, 160 Hill), 59 D Festivals and special events, Gifts, best, 76 David, Apollo and Daphne 160–161 Giornati dei Defunti (Day (Bernini), 30 Fiddler’s Elbow, 124 of the Dead), 160 Davide Cenci, 81 Fitness First, 167 Golden House (Domus Day of the Dead (Giornati dei Fiumicino (Leonardo Da Vinci Aurea), 27 Defunti), 160 International Airport), 162 Gran Caffè La Caffettiera, Degli Effetti, 82 Fonclea, 124 168 Della Palma, 13 Grottaferrata, 154 Department stores, 84–85 (Tortoise Fountain), 39, 69 Deposition (Caravaggio), 50 Food stores and markets, H Design and home 85–86 Hadrian, 12 furnishings, 85 best, 76 Hadrian’s Villa (Villa Adriana; Diana, Temple of, 93 Football (soccer), 6, 131–132 Tivoli), 147–148 Dining, 5, 102–114, 166 Forica (Ostia Antica), 150 Hall of Constantine (Vatican best bets, 102 Forno del Ghetto, 69 City), 50 menu terms, 176 Foro Italico, 131 Health clubs, 167 tips on, 102 Forum (Pompeii), 151 Hercules, Temple of, 71 Disabilities, travelers with, Forum Baths (Ostia Antica), Hertz, 162 171 150 Holidays, 167 Discos and clubs, 122–123 Forum Baths (Pompeii), 151 Holy Week (Settimana Santa), Ditta G. Poggi, 88 Forum of the Corporations 160 Domitian, Stadium of, 47 (Ostia Antica), 150 Horseback riding, 97 , 27, 46 Fountain of Neptune, 34 Hospitals, 167 Dress code for St. Peter’s Fountain of the Four Hotels, 134–145. See also Basilica, 43 Rivers, 34 Accommodations Index Fountain of the Tortoises, 39 House of Menander E Four Rivers, Fountain (Pompeii), 152 Easter (Pasqua), 160 of the, 34 House of the Faun (Pompeii), EasyEverything, 168 Francesco Biasia, 82 151–152 Ecstasy of St. Teresa Franchi, 76, 86 House of the Tragic Poet (Bernini), 35 , 154 (Pompeii), 152 Edict of Milan, 26 Fregene, 156 House of the Vettii (Pompeii), Elderhostel, 169 Frette, 85 151 Electricity, 166–167 Fuori Orario, 82 Eleonora, 82 Furla, 83 16_576143 bindex.qxd 8/23/05 12:05 AM Page 180

180 I Maggiore, 162 Necropolis of St. Peter’s, Il Mattatoio, 74 Mail and postage, 168 47, 49 Il Vittoriano, 11, 12 Mamertine Prison, 47 Necropolis of Tarquinia, 157 Index Immacolata Concezione, 160 Maratona di Roma, 160 Nemi, 154 , 11 Marcello, Teatro di, 23 Neptune, Fountain of, 34 Insurance, 167–168 Marcus Aurelius Nero, Domus Aurea (Golden Internet access, 168 Column of, 55 House), 27, 46 Isaiah (Raphael), 54 statue of, 10 New Year’s (Capodanno), Italian Open, 160 Marcus Aurelius (2nd-century- 160 A.D. bronze), 31 Nightlife, 116–124 J Margutta Art Fair, 63 bars and lounges, Maritime Theater (Tivoli), 121–122 James, Henry, 93, 154 148 best bets, 116 Jazz, 123 Mark Antony, 25 bowling, 124 Jazz & Image, 126, 130 Markets, 86–87 discos and clubs, Jewish Catacombs, 96 Mercato di Testaccio, 74 122–123 Jewish Ghetto, 20, 68–71 Martina Novelli, 76, 88 gay and lesbian, 123 Joia, 123 , 62 live music, 123–124 Jonathan’s Angels, 121 Mausoleum of Cecilia pubs, 124 Julius Caesar, 57 Metella, 96 Nuyorica, 83 Temple of, 25 Mercato delle Stampe, 86 Mercato di Testaccio, 6, 74 L O Metropolitana (Metro), Officina Profumo Farmaceu- La Befana, 161 164 tica di Santa Maria Laghetto di Villa Borghese, Michelangelo, 12, 31, 43, 50 Novella, 87 45, 93 (Vatican Ognissanti (All Saints’ Day), La Maison, 116, 123 City), 50 160 Laocoon (), 50 Milvian Bridge, Battle Ombre Rosse, 122 Largo Argentina, Area of the, 26 On the Rox, 124 Sacra di, 57 Mithraeum (Ostia Antica), Opera, 126 Largo della Fontanella 150 Opticians, 168 Borghese, 62 Modigliani, 76, 85 Orbis agency, 170 Largo 16 Ottobre, 70 Mondello Ottica, 85 Ostia, 156 La Rinascente, 76, 84–85 Money matters, 168 Ostia Antica, 149–150 Last Judgment (Cavallini), 15 , 73 Outdoor activities, 90–100 Last Judgment (Michelan- Via di, 74 Villa Borghese, 90–93 gelo), 50 Mostra delle Azalee, 160 La Terrazza dell’Eden, Mouth of Truth, 71 P 116, 121 Moves, 167 , 4, 26 La Terrazza dell’Eur, 116, 123 Movies (Leonardo da Vinci), Palazzo dei Conservatori, 31 Leather goods, best, 76 130–131 Palazzo Firenze, 62 Le Bain, 122 Musei Capitolini (Capitoline Palazzo Nuovo, 5, 31 L.E.I., 83 Museum), 31 Palazzo Senatorio, 10 Le Jardin du Russie, 45 Museo d’Arte Ebraica, 70 Panificio la Renella, 59 Leonardo da Vinci, 12, 50 Museo della Civiltà Papal vestments, best, 76 Leonardo Da Vinci Interna- Romana, 31 Parco Savello, 66 tional Airport (Fiumicino), Museo di Via Ostiense, 73 Parking, 168 162 Museo Nazionale (Tarquinia), Pasqua (Easter), 160 Life of St. Matthew altar- 157 , 126, 131 pieces (Caravaggio), 54 Museo Nazionale Romano- Passes, 168–169 Limos, 168 Palazzo Massimo, 30–31 Passports, 169 Linens, 85 Museums, 28–35 Pastries, best, 102 Lingerie, 86 Music, classical, 129–130 Pauline Bonaparte Loco, 76, 88 Mussolini, Benito, 11, 57, 62 (Canova), 30 Lost property, 168 My Home Your Home, 165 Lottomatica, 170 People, 83 Lupanare (Pompeii), 152 Performing arts, 126 N Perfumeries, 87 Naples, 152 M Peschiera (Tivoli), 148 Natale (Christmas), 160 Pharmacies, 169 Maderno, Stefano, 15 Natale di Roma, 160 Piazza, 93 Madonna dei Pellegrini Necropoli della Banditaccia Piazza Borghese, 62 (Caravaggio), 54 (Cerveteri), 157 16_576143 bindex.qxd 8/23/05 12:05 AM Page 181

181 Index , 43, 55 Raphael, 12, 30, 50, 54, Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, 34, 54 Piazza della Rotonda, 38 55, 61 Santo Stefano Rotondo, 43 Piazza del Parlamento, 62 Raphael Hotel, Roof Bar at, 45 Saponeria, 123 , 17, 38, 61 (Vatican Saturn, Temple of, 25 Piazza di Montecitorio, 55 City), 50 Scalinata di Piazza di Pietra, 55 Religious goods, 87–88 (), 5, 17 Piazza di Spagna, 63 Reni, Guido, 31 Scavi di Pompei, 151 , 16, 39, Restaurants, 5, 102–114, 166 Scooter rentals, 4–5, 169 56–57 best bets, 102 Seasons, 160 Piazzale delle Canestre, 93 menu terms, 176 Senior travelers, 169 Piazzale Napoleone, 93 tips on, 102 Septimius Severus, Arch Piazza Margana, 69 Roma C’e, 167 of, 25 Piazza Mattei, 39, 69 RomaLimo, 168 Serapeum (Tivoli), 148 , 13, 34, 38, Roman aqueduct ruins, 62, 63 Fragments, 67 52–55 , 4, 10–11, 24 Settimanadei Beni Culturali, Piazza San Giovanni Roman Sports Center, 167 160 in Laterano, 42 Roof Bar at Raphael Hotel, 45 Settimana Santa (Holy Piazza San Lorenzo Rostra, 25 Week), 160 in Lucina, 38, 62 Shamrock, 116, 124 Piazza San Pietro (Vatican S Shoes, 88 City), 33, 48 Safety, 169 best, 76 Piazza Santa Maria in Traste- St. Jerome (Leonardo da Shopping, 75–88 vere, 15–16, 39, 58–59 Vinci), 50 apparel and acces- Piazza Testaccio, 76–86 St. Peter’s, Necropolis of, sories, 81 Piazza Trilussa, 59 47, 49 best bets, 76 Piccole Terme (Small Baths; St. Peter’s Basilica, 5, 12, 33, books, 84 Tivoli), 148 43, 48 department stores, 85 Pietà (Michelangelo), 12 Dome of, 49 design and home fur- Pinacoteca (Vatican City), 50 Sala Baldini, 129 nishings, 85–86 Pincio gardens, 45 Salvatore Ferragamo, 76 eyewear, 86 Pincio Hill, 93 Salvi, Nicola, 13, 34 food and wine, 84–85 Pincio Terrace, 4, 17 San Callisto, Catacombs of, lingerie, 86 Pinko, 76, 83 19, 46, 95 markets, 86–87 Pinturicchio, 61 San Carlo alle Quattro perfumeries, 87 Piper, 123 Fontane, 35 religious goods, 87–88 Pizza, 108–112 San Clemente, 47 sale season, 83 best, 102 San Francesco a Ripa, 58 shoes, 88 Pompeii, 151–152 San Giovanni in Laterano, 42 stationers, 88 Ponte Rotto, 71 San Luigi dei Francesi, 54 toys, 88 Ponte Sant’Angelo, 12, 33, San Pietro in Montorio, 59 Simona, 86 45, 53 San Sebastiano, Catacombs Sistine Chapel (Vatican , 92 of, 46, 95–96 City), 50 , 87 Santa Cecilia, 15 Small Baths (Piccole Terme; , 73 Santa Croce in Tivoli), 148 , 95 Gerusalemme, 42 Small Theater (Pompeii), 152 d’Ottavia, 70 Sant’Agnese in Agone, Smoking, 169 , Temple of, 71 34, 54 Sneakers, 76 Posto Italiano, 76–88 Sant’Agostino, 54 Soccer (football), 6, 131–132 Primo Maggio, 160 Santa Maria della Vittoria, 35 Società Dante Alighieri, 62 Protestant Cemetery, 73 , Sole, 84 Prototype, 76, 83–84 38, 61 Spagna Rent, 165 Pubs, 124 Santa Maria in Aracoeli, 43 Spanish Steps, 5, 17 best, 116 Santa Maria in Trastevere, 43 Spazio Sette, 85–86 Puccini, 57 , 42 Special events and festivals, Pyramid of Gaius Cestius, 73 Santa Maria Sopra 160–161 Minerva, 43 Spectator sports, 131–132, R Sant’Andrea al Quirinale, 35 169–170 Rainfall, average monthly, Sant’Andrea della Valle, 57 Sperlonga, 157 161 Sant’Angelo, Church of, 70 SS Lazio, 126, 131–132 Rape of Persephone , 43, 66–67 Stabian Baths (Pompeii), 152 (Bernini), 30 church of, 20 Stadio Olimpico, 132 Sant’Ignazio, 55 , 47 16_576143 bindex.qxd 8/23/05 12:05 AM Page 182

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Stationers, 88 Trams, 164 Vineria Reggio, 116, 122 Stazione Termini, 162–164 Tranchina, 165 Vitruvian Man (Leonardo da Stoa Poikile (Tivoli), 148 Transfiguration (Raphael), 50 Vinci), 12

Index Synagogue, 69–70 Trastevere, 5, 58–59 Vitruvius, 12 Travel Assistance Interna- Vittoriano, 11, 12 T tional, 168 TAD, 84 Travel Guard International, W Tarquinia, 156, 157 168 Walking, 165 Taverna del Campo, 116, 122 Travel Insured International, Warner Village—Moderno, Taxes, 170 168 131 Taxis, 162–164, 170 , 13, 34, 62 Weather, 161 Teatro dell’Opera, 126, 129 Tridente, 60–63 Websites, 161 Teatro di Marcello (Theater Trimani, 76, 86 Wine shop, best, 76 of Marcellus), 23, 70, 130 Trinity College, 116, 124 Winter Palace (Tivoli), 148 Teen fashions, best, 76 Telephones, 170 V Accommodations Temperature, average daily, Vatican City, 48–50 Aldrovandi Palace, 140 161 Vatican Gardens, 49 Aleph, 134, 140 Tempietto, 59 Vatican Museums, 12, 30, Art, 140 Temple of Aesculapius, 93 49–50 Campo de’ Fiori, 140 Temple of Antoninus and VAT refund, 81 Capo d’Africa, 134, 140 Faustina, 25 Velázquez, Diego, 55 Casa Howard, 134, 140 Temple of Castor and Vesta, Temple of, 25 Casa Kolbe, 140–141 Pollux, 25 Via Appia Antica (Appian , 141 Temple of Diana, 93 Way), 4, 19, 94–96 Colors, 134, 141 Temple of Hercules, 71 Via Condotti, 62 Columbus, 134, 141 Temple of Julius Caesar, 25 , 53 Della Lunetta, 141 , 71 Via dei Fienaroli, 58 Des Artistes, 141 , 25 , 23–24 Domus Tiberina, 141–142 , 25 Via dei Giubbonari, 57 Eden, 134, 142 Terme di Caracalla (Baths of , 61–62 Excelsior, 134, 142 Caracalla), 27, 67 Via della Pace Area, 53 Forte, 142 Testaccio, 19, 72–74 Via della Scala to Via del Gladiatori, 142–143 Mercato di, 74 Moro, 59 Hassler, 134, 143 Testaccio, Monte, 73 Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 69 Hotel de Russie, 134, 143 Theater of Marcellus (Teatro Via di Grotta Pinta, 57 La Lumière, 143 di Marcello), 70 Via di Monte Caprino, 23 Lancelot, 143 The Mill (Ostia Antica), 150 Via di Monte Testaccio, 74 Locarno, 134, 144 The Pantheon, 12, 54–55 Via di Villa Pepoli, 67 Mach 2, 134, 144 Thermopolium (Ostia , 16, 57 Margutta, 144 Antica), 150 Viale delle Magnolie, 93 Navona, 144 The Sistine Chapel, 12 Viale del Museo Borghese, 92 Panda, 144 Island, 20, 70–71 Via Margutta, 63 Pomezia, 144 Tiber River, cruises, 20 Via Sannio, 87 , 145 Tickets, concert and Vicolo dell’Atleta, 58 Radisson SAS, 134, 145 theater, 170 Victor Emanuel II, 11 Raphael, 145 Time Out Roma, 167 Villa Adriana (Hadrian’s Villa; Santa Maria, 134, 145 Tintoretto, 31 Tivoli), 147–148 Sant’Anna, 145 Tipping, 170 Villa and Circus of Smeraldo, 145 Titian, 30, 31 Maxentius, 96 Sole al Biscione, 134, 145 Tivoli, 147–148 Villa Borghese, 17, 90–93 Valadier, 134, 146 Toilets, 170 Laghetto di, 45, 93 Villa San Pio, 134, 146 Tombs, Ostia Antica, 150 Villa Celimontana, 100 Tortoise Fountain (Fontana Villa d’Este (Tivoli), 148 Restaurants delle Tartarughe), 39, 69 , 130 Acqua e Farina, 108 Tourist offices, 160, 171 Villa Magistrale dei Cavalieri Al Girarrosto Toscano, 108 Tourist traps, 171 di Malta, 67 Antica Pesa, 108 Tours, 171 Villa Medici, Gardens at, 93 Arancia Blu, 108 Toys, 88 Villa of the Mysteries Bar Sant’Eustachio, 108 Train travel, 163 (Pompeii), 152 Caffè Aventino, 67 Trajan’s Forum, 24 Villa Pamphilj, 100 16_576143 bindex.qxd 8/23/05 12:05 AM Page 183

183 Photo Caffè delle Arti, 102, 108 Enoteca Cavour 313, 24 Osteria della Frezza, 112–113 Caffè Italia, 12 Garden Bar, 96 Osteria der Belli, 102, 113 Caffè Rosati, 38 ’Gusto, 110 Panificio la Renella, 59

Caffè Teichner, 62 Hostaria Romanesca, Pierluigi, 113 Credits Caffetteria at the Galleria 110–111 Ponte Sisto, 113 Borghese, 92 Il Corallo, 110 Quinzi e Gabrieli, 102, 113 Casa Bleve, 109 Il Mastino (Fregene), 156 San Crispino, 102, 113 Checchino dal 1887, 109 Il Seme e la Foglia, 19, 73 San Teodoro, 113 Ciampini al Café du Insalata Ricca, 111 seafood, best, 102 Jardin, 63 Isidoro, 102, 111 Spirito di Vino, 113–114 Cul de Sac, 109 La Montecarlo, 111 Supper Club, 102, 114 Da Felice, 109 La Pergola, 102, 111–112 Taverna da Tonino, 114 Da Francesco, 109 La Terrazza dell’Eden, 45 Taverna del Campo, Da Oio a Casa Mia, 109–110 La Veranda, 112 16, 102, 114 Dar Poeta, 109 Maccheroni, 102, 112 Terrazza Caffarelli, 31 Divinare, 47 Ombre Rosse, 16 Trattoria Monti, 114 Due Ladroni, 102, 110 Opera Unica, 112 Tutti Frutti, 114 Enoteca Antica di Via della Osteria del Gallo, 102, 112 Zi’ Fenizia, 69 Croce, 17 Photo Credits

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