Scot on the Second Half of 2013, and a Store in Hong Kong Is Seen Opening in the ﬁ Rst Half of 2014

WIDER NET ESTEBAN CORTAZAR RETURNS WITH HELP FROM MEN’S QUARTERS NET-A-PORTER. PAGE 6 CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN OPENS A MEN’S SHOE STORE IN NEW YORK. PAGE 3

BIG STEPS J. Crew Sets Timing For Overseas Stores

By DAVID MOIN

NEW YORK — J. Crew Group Inc. is running strong and bringing its business to new markets. “It’s been a nice year so far,” Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman and chief executive offi cer, told WWD. “Every day we get a bit smarter about our THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 business, but you can never let your guard down.” On Wednesday, the company reported a robust WWD second quarter, marked by a return to the black and strong sales and full-price selling across several categories. Executives also cited plans to add more men’s wear stores this year, and divulged the time frame for opening the fi rst J. Crew stores in Europe and Asia, meaning the company is getting close to signing leases. A London store is seen opening in Scot On the second half of 2013, and a store in Hong Kong is seen opening in the fi rst half of 2014. When asked to describe his upcoming spring Last year, J. Crew crossed borders for the fi rst collection, Oscar de la Renta offered two time by launching international shipping, partner- words: “High defi nition.” How does that relate ing with Net-a-porter, and opening a store in the Yorkdale Shopping Centre in Toronto, marking the to his sketch and photo composition, shown fi rst brick-and-mortar move in its international ex- here, that appears to represent a fanciful pansion plan. Last March J. Crew expanded its international shipping to 107 countries, up from 29, Highland fl ing? “With patterns and colors that and more recently revealed a plan to distribute to are strong and graphic,” he said. For more Lane Crawford in Asia. Designer Inspirations, see pages 4 and 5. J. Crew reported net income of $22 million for the second quarter ended July 28, compared with a $10.5 million loss in the year-ago period. Last year’s loss was due to nonrecurring inventory and litigation costs associated with its acquisition by TPG Capital L.P. and Leonard Green & Partners L.P. in March 2011. In the 2011 period, the amortization of inventory from purchase accounting cost the company $22 million, and litigation costs reached $6.5 million. NEW YORK Total revenues in the latest quarter rose 21 percent to $525.5 million, while comparable company INSPIRATIONS sales increased 14 percent. Gross margin increased to 45.1 percent from 36.5 percent, refl ecting healthy SPRING 2013 full-price selling. Operating income increased to $62.1 million, SEE PAGE 3 Caruso’s Golden Grove

By RACHEL BROWN

LOS ANGELES — A decade after the nation’s pre- mier lifestyle center, The Grove, opened, Rick Caruso still doesn’t get exactly what a lifestyle center is, but he’s convinced it’s something that’s here to stay. “I don’t really know what the defi nition is. Some defi nitions, I hear there is no anchor. Some defi nitions, there is an anchor. Some are not more than 300,000 square feet,” said Caruso, president and chief executive offi cer of Caruso Affi liated, owner of 13 residential and retail properties in Southern California, including The Grove and The Americana at Brand. “We are building what we know the guest responds to, which is an environment that feels more like a street and is architecturally real, has great landscaping and is programmed. Every day there is something hap- pening on the property. I think that if that’s the defi nition of a lifestyle center, it will be successful forever. It’s natural to the human being — how the human being lives and works and plays.” Caruso has certainly banked the future of his company — even without him at the helm, should he choose to step into the race for mayor of Los Angeles — on lifestyle centers being a permanent fi xture of the California shopping landscape. With 10-year leases up at The Grove, the shopping center’s ten- ant mix is shifting to make room for retailers that have track records of recent success. And Caruso Affi liated is pursuing an expansion program designed to double its net operating income within the next fi ve years, in part by acquiring properties that SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 2012 WWD.COM L’Oréal on Course Despite Turbulence “and had it not been for a [minus] 55-basis-point the Briefing Box By Jennifer Weil cut in A&P spending as percent of sales, operating margin growth [of 15 basis points] would have been in Today’s WWd PAriS — The beauty industry is not immune to negative, too, and even further below consensus [of economic woes, which have recently dampened plus 50 basis points].” demand for luxury in certain regions. Operating profit growth was “well below” con- But the outlook is still bright. sensus of plus 14 percent “but was somewhat “We believe that the cosmetics market should rescued by nonoperating items, principally a low- remain buoyant, even though over the summer er-than-expected tax rate, to give underlying [earn- we noted some obvious signs of slowdown,” Jean- ings per share] growth [up 9 percent] slightly above Paul Agon, l’Oréal chairman and chief executive consensus expectations but below our estimates,” officer, said Wednesday while addressing financial continued Wood. analysts and journalists the day after the french Bernstein maintained an underperform rating beauty giant reported that its profit margins con- on l’Oréal, noting its disappointing results and tracted in the first six months of 2012. lack of change in full-year guidance “should drive “Our performance during the first half of the some stock weakness.” year has grown strongly,” he said, even as shares in UBS, meanwhile, on Wednesday cut its l’Oréal l’Oréal took a tumble and at least one investment recommendation to neutral from buy. LER firm downgraded the stock. “Although we continue to like l’Oréal for the long b

Agon acknowledged a slowdown in the luxury term, we are downgrading it to neutral with an un- AN KI y

market in Asia and the U.S., as well as in the trav- changed price target of 100 euros [or $125.30],” UBS R el-retail channel. analyst eva Quiroga said in a research note. Despite that, l’Oréal believes the worldwide As reported, l’Oréal first-half net profits rose 10.8 cosmetics market should grow by around 4 per- percent to 1.63 billion euros, or $2.11 billion. Company Photo by cent over the whole year. And Agon vowed that the operating profits increased 11.4 percent to 1.9 billion An image from They Are Wearing: New York City’s Wall Street. company would tackle the second half with “great euros, or $2.46 billion, while its sales gained 10.5 per- confidence and determination.” cent to 11.21 billion euros, or $14.55 billion. J. Crew Group Inc. on Wednesday reported a robust second The assurances didn’t stop l’Oréal stock from Dollar figures were converted at average ex- quarter, marked by a return to the black and strong sales and closing down 4.4 percent on the Paris Bourse change for the period. full-price selling across several categories. PAGE 1 Wednesday to 96.58 euros, or $121.02 at current Agon stressed l’Oréal is confident about its exchange, following the publication of its first- second-half business, which will be bolstered by Rick Caruso of Caruso Affiliated talks expansion, the success half profit figures on Tuesday night. Analysts took a strong pipeline of new products through year- of The Grove and The Americana at Brand shopping centers — issue with the french beauty giant’s profit margins, end. He named projects including lancôme’s la and running for mayor of Los Angeles. PAGE 1 which just missed their estimates. vie est belle and Yves Saint laurent’s Manifesto l’Oréal’s gross profit as a percentage of sales was fragrances, plus Blue Therapy from Biotherm, Christian Louboutin today opens his first U.S. men’s store, in 71 percent in the six months ended June 30, versus revitalift laser XS from l’Oréal Paris and idéalia New York’s Meatpacking District. PAGE 3 71.5 percent in the same prior-year period. The Pro from Vichy in skin care. Agon explained such company said the variation particularly reflects the initiatives would boost brands’ growth over the While Isaac lost its hurricane status on Wednesday euro’s weakening, the consolidation of Clarisonic upcoming 18 months. afternoon, the redesignated tropical storm continues to wreak and a slight increase in promotional offers. Since many of the major projects are set to havoc along the Gulf Coast. PAGE 3 in a research note, Andrew Wood, an analyst at launch in October and november, Agon expects Sanford C. Bernstein & Co., said that l’Oréal results l’Oréal’s gains to be stronger in the fourth quarter Anita McBride, former chief of staff for Laura Bush, sat down “came in below our expectations with generally than in the third quarter. with WWD on the second day of the Republican National poor quality.” He reiterated that the group’s ambition is “to Convention for a discussion on a variety of topics. PAGE 6 He indicated gross margins were down 50 basis outperform the market and achieve another year points against the consensus of plus 30 basis points of growth in sales, results and profitability.” Esteban Cortazar will launch a namesake collection during New York Fashion Week, thanks to help from Net-a-porter. PAGE 6

Old Navy and Kim Kardashian have settled a lawsuit alleging that a television commercial titled “Super C-U-T-E” violated her Strong Sales Growth Lifts Ferragamo publicity rights by using a look-alike model. PAGE 7 taxes, depreciation and amorti- By lUiSA ZArGAni zation rose 25 percent to 104.7 Deborah Needleman, editor of rival WSJ. Magazine, has been million euros, or $135 million. mentioned as a possible replacement for Sally Singer at T: The MilAn — lifted by growth in all Operating profit grew 24.7 New York Times Style Magazine. PAGE 7 markets, particularly China, and percent to 88.4 million euros, or a spike in its footwear, handbags $114 million. Jos. A Bank Clothiers Inc. said second-quarter profits topped and leather accessories and fra- in light of the performance expectations and that it was aggressively planning to increase grance divisions, the Salvatore in the first half, the company its store count. PAGE MW1 ferragamo Group reported said it expected “significant strong gains in profits and sales growth also throughout 2012, in J. Press York Street is the moniker for the new collection for the first six months of the the absence of severely unfa- designed by Ariel and Shimon Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons for the year. in the period ended June vorable market conditions.” venerable Ivy League specialty store. PAGE MW2 30, net profits at the florence- in the first six months of 2012, based luxury house rose 22.5 by product category, footwear Men’s sportswear brand Scott James, which is owned by

percent to 55.9 million euros, NER sales gained 24.3 percent; hand- Hampshire Group Ltd., will open a new store in Boston and ch or $72.1 million, compared with I bags and leather accessories rose begin distributing its collection in Canada. PAGE MW4 E E

45.7 million euros, or $66.2 mil- v 25.1 percent, all together account- E

lion, in the same period last year. St ing for over 75 percent of total Sales climbed 22.9 percent to sales. The fragrance division saw on WWD.CoM 565.1 million euros, or $729 mil- Michele Norsa a 29.4 percent increase through lion, compared with 459.7 million Photo by the launch of ferragamo’s new THEY ARE WEARING: WALL STREET: While dark blue and gray euros, or $666.5 million, last year. 25.8 percent rise in sales, which women’s fragrance, Signorina. suits still rule in the caverns of downtown Manhattan, some guys Dollar amounts were con- reached 212.4 million euros, or responding to an analyst’s ques- are expressing their individual style with bow ties, boutonnieres and verted at average exchange for $274 million, and accounting for tion on smaller growth in ap- updated sport coats. For more, see WWD.com/menswear-news. the periods to which they refer. 37.6 percent of total revenues. parel, which was up 8.8 percent, in light of the euro zone crisis, Growth in Asia was bolstered norsa said the category was weak global economy, a chang- by ferragamo’s retail opera- “strongly influenced by Japan,” To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is ing consumer and “challeng- tions, which in China recorded a historically a strong ready-to- [email protected], using The individual’s name. ing” comparable results, chief 38 percent increase. While con- wear customer for ferragamo, WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. executive officer Michele norsa tinuing to see signs of growth in and now “not the best perform- VOLUME 204, NO. 45. THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays described the first-half numbers the region in first- to third-tier ing market.” The executive ex- and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL as “remarkable” during a confer- cities, and “substantial” gains plained that “ready-to-wear re- OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. ence call with analysts. norsa in July, norsa conceded a “slow- mains an extremely important Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada pointed to ferragamo’s constant down in investments in commer- division in rejuvenating the Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096- 20 percent growth in revenues cial real estate” had taken place brand, for its image and celebri- RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. for the last nine consecutive during the quarter in China, ties, and it is more expensive and POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, quarters. “The luxury industry with projects merely “postponed more sophisticated than in the North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses is still proving to be resilient and not canceled.” He anticipat- past. On the other hand, leather as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the and still strongly influenced by ed the Chinese would be spend- goods is our core business, and i magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on Asian consumers across differ- ing more outside of China. see its growth as positive.” all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions ent regions, as they increasingly Sales in europe rose 26.4 As of June 30, the group requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact travel to europe, the West Coast, percent and 20.6 percent in the had 327 directly operated The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Australia or Southeast Asia,” said U.S. Sales in Japan rose 9 per- stores, up from 323 at the end available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do norsa, defining the latter as “a cent, thanks to a favorable ex- of December 2011, while the not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER long-term phenomenon.” change rate, while Central and wholesale and travel retail INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, in the first half, the Asia- South America posted a 34.1 channel included 267 third- AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO Pacific region remained the percent increase. party-operated stores, versus DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE group’s main market, showing a earnings before interest, 270 at the end of last year. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w30a002a.indd 2 8/29/12 8:16 PM 08292012201737 WWD thursday, august 30, 2012 3 WWD.COM Louboutin Brings Men’s Only to NYC around the corner from the company’s tomers seeking a personalized experi- By JEAN E. PALMIERI women’s store at 59 Horatio Street and is ence can have a digital photo taken of designed to pay homage to the industrial their own body art, or one designed by NEW YORK — Christian Louboutin has heritage of the neighborhood. Exposed Louboutin, that can be embroidered onto heard the call from men for his famous piping and utility conduits act as the their shoes by Lesage’s atelier. red-soled shoes. And he’s answered with ceiling and a segment of railroad track “We have a tattoo parlor in Paris and today’s opening of his first U.S. men’s from the nearby High Line hangs above will have one in L.A. as well,” said Erice. store in the Meatpacking District here. the door. The foyer features six skylights, “But not in Chicago, they’re just for the The 1,500-square-foot store at 808 retrofitted with mirrors salvaged from men’s stores.” Washington Street is the the Park Avenue Armory. Louboutin said: “Tattoo is a modern first of three men’s-only A geometric rawhide language today, like a family crest. And stores to open this year. Looks inside the Louboutin border frames the com- this really fits the city of New York.” Units in London and Los men’s shop. pany’s signature red car- The selection of shoes and accessories Angeles are both expect- pet, while the rest of the in the New York store is the largest in the ed to debut in November, store’s flooring features U.S. with 100 stockkeeping units. The as- and a dual-gender store leather panels created sortment ranges from a hand-painted py- in Chicago, also slated especially for the store thon iPad case for $1,595 and the silver for a fall opening, will by Mexican artisans. spiked Syd Shopper tote bag for $3,695 to have a floor devoted A centerpiece of the a leather and canvas backpack for $1,895.

strictly to men’s shoes space is an ornate cap The shoe selection encompasses every- ericksen kyle and accessories. of an advertising column thing from the conservative Daddy flat by Louboutin currently that Louboutin found at a loafer for $895 to studded Louis Strass operates eight women’s flea market in Paris and sneakers for $2,495 — all with the compa- photos stores in the U.S. and reworked as a light fix- ny’s trademark red sole. The fall collec- opened its first men’s ture. It illuminates a dis- tion includes an assortment tartan and large, he made the shoes anyway. When store on Rue Jean Jacques play of shoes and bags. wool flannel bags and shoes. they were finished, he presented them Rousseau in Paris, across Mimicking the Paris “Sneakers are where it’s at,” said to her proudly. “She tried them on and from his original women’s store, the boutique also Erice, adding that men’s styles have seen thanked me. She’d never put on a shoe store, last year. features a diamond-pan- a high demand in the women’s stores. that was too big before,” he said. “And “We sell our men’s col- el leather wall embroi- “Customers come in seeking it out.” she walked out. I was ready to kill her.” lection in all our women’s stores, but this dered in various shoe patterns by Jean- Louboutin got into the men’s business But a friend heard the story and is the first rollout of a true men’s store Philippe Lesage’s atelier in India. by accident. “I always did a little for me bought the loafers as a present for her with men’s branding,” said Carla Erice, “We were inspired by Christian’s and a few friends,” he said. He soon no- husband. They were a perfect fit — and U.S. retail director. shoes and wanted the architecture to ticed that men were buying some of the Louboutin was in the men’s business. “In Alexis Mourot, chief operating officer, reflect a similar artistry in the crafts women’s loafers for themselves. Then every cloud, there is a silver side,” he added: “The global strategy is to increase and multitude of ways of working with one day, a French woman approached said. the number of dedicated men’s bou- leather; so tapping various experienced him saying she wanted to buy a pair of He now has created separate collec- tiques. At the moment, men’s makes up artisans-artists, we set out to create a his shoes but her feet were quite large. tions for men for two-and-a-half years. 5 percent of the business globally. Within highlighted wall of leather techniques in- He asked her how big and was greeted He admits that he expected his men’s the next few years, we hope to increase cluding embroidered, embossed, pleated with indignation. “You don’t ask a woman designs to appeal primarily to the gay the business by 20 percent.” and patterned leather,” said store design- her age, and you don’t ask a woman her community, but it turns out they are also Louboutin, a privately owned busi- er Eric Clough of 212box. shoe size,” Louboutin related. popular with sports stars and perform- ness, has sales volume of over $300 mil- The rear of the store features a neon He suggested that she write the ers, he said. The Garrett lace-up remains lion globally. sign drawing shoppers up a flight of size on a piece of paper. It was a 13 1/2. the most popular style, but the “superem- The New York City store is located stairs to the “Tattoo Parlor.” Here, cus- Although he didn’t even have lasts that bellished” shoes are also strong sellers. J. Crew Profit Vaults Ahead Stores Cope With Storm Impact {Continued from page one} centers. Local teams will reassess when it’s compared with $12.3 million in the By SHARON EDELSON safe to reopen those stores, Macy’s said. As second quarter of 2011. of Wednesday, Macy’s had no information as Men’s wear, according to the com- WHILE ISAAC LOST its hurricane status on to whether there was any damage to any of pany, increased at a higher rate than Wednesday afternoon, the redesignated trop- the stores. women’s last quarter, and executives ical storm continues to wreak havoc along The storm is expected to move next cited plans to open two more units the Gulf Coast. through to Arkansas, though Macy’s does not this year, including a Ludlow shop Heavy rainfall, storm surge flooding, operate any stores in that state. in Copley Place in Boston on Sept. strong winds and possible tornadoes are ex- “It’s not like Katrina; nevertheless, this 18, and a J. Crew men’s shop in The pected to continue through today. Images of is something we are watching closely,” said Grove in Los Angeles on Nov. 21, overtopped levees, flooding, downed power Terry J. Lundgren, Macy’s Inc. chairman, chief bringing the total to nine men’s units. lines and power outages brought to mind executive officer and president. He said that J. Crew men’s wear, Drexler said, has the damage left in the wake of Hurricane since the storm is moving slowly, there’s time become “quite well known as a strong Katrina seven years ago. to communicate with stores and make deci- franchise. Our Ludlow suit business Millard “Mickey” Drexler Retailers with stores that were affected sions on protecting personnel and property. is a business unto itself, as is our shirt by Katrina remember that it was a long road Target Corp. operates 26 stores in the business.” Ludlow is a J. Crew label. below designer and the fact that back to profitability. However, Katrina was a forecast path of Isaac, 11 of which were With the rollout of men’s stores, J. Crew is not sold at discount in nine-day weather event. While Isaac is mov- closed due to the weather. Many stores “We are ramping up, only selective- channels other than its own “long- ing at a snail’s pace, with its center expected around New Orleans opened earlier than ly,” Drexler said. “We are not running term builds loyalty into the cus- to hover over Louisiana until late Thursday, usual on Tuesday morning to serve the local fast. We are running strategically and tomer base.” He also said not being the National Hurricane Center said Isaac community and closed early Tuesday after- appropriately….I don’t think men a business that designs products and its remnants should dissipate during noon to allow “team members adequate time have had a great choice in the last flaunting the logo enhances the ap- Labor Day weekend. to get home safely,” a spokeswoman said. number of years to buy high quality peal. “We maintain the friendliness Wal-Mart, which closed 62 stores and Sam’s “We definitely do have some stores that at prices that are reasonable.” of the brand.” Clubs, mostly in Louisiana, declined to esti- are impacted, approximately 10 full-line Overall at the company, “We in- Drexler also said that certain mate sales losses during Isaac. The Bureau of Sears stores and 10 Kmart stores,” said a tensified our product offerings from categories were identified for in- Labor Statistics estimates annual retail sales Sears Holdings Corp. spokeswoman. “They a creative point of tensification this in New Orleans alone to be $10.4 billion. closed at various times. We’ve been bringing view,” Drexler said. year, though he “We’re pre-staging in Baton Rouge,” a supplies into the area to help customers get “I would characterize declined to specify, Wal-Mart spokeswoman said Wednesday af- through the storm — bottled water, batter- the J. Crew product and also stressed ternoon. “[Isaac] is such a slow moving storm ies, flashlights, chainsaws and generators. and merchandising the marketing ef- and so big, it hasn’t really arrived here yet. We have additional trucks at the periphery as standing out in the forts, including Our crews are strategically placed through- of the storms. Right now, the storm is sitting marketplace. People reformulating the out the Gulf Coast. They’re ready to roll in over us and it hasn’t passed. Once we get the voted with their catalogue, were in- once they get the say so. Luckily, we’re very clearance from the National Weather Service pocketbooks, but we tensified as well. fortunate at this point; we have no signifi- that it’s safe to reopen, we’ll open.” worked hard at it, and Regarding the cant damages. We closed our stores in Baton Box retailers and department stores down- we continue to inno- Madewell brand, Rouge early so our associates could be with played the lost sales while highlighting their vate and create every Drexler said, “We their families. Pending the outcome of the community involvement. The Sears spokes- day….A lot of design- are expanding it storm, we’ll evaluate when we’ll reopen.” woman said, “We’re much more efficient at ers sell primarily ac- both storewise and Macy’s closed its five Louisiana stores on it. Katrina was a learning opportunity for us cessories. We are in onlinewise. We’re Tuesday and Wednesday. The stores are in and other retailers in the community. We’ve the apparel and ac- very excited. We’re the Mall of Louisiana and Cortana stores in formed better partnerships with FEMA and cessory business.” launching our Baton Rouge, the store in Lafayette is in the other disaster relief organizations.” Drexler said that fourth catalogue in Acadiana Mall, and two units in New Orleans — With contributions from the brand’s pricing The J. Crew men’s style guide. September.” are in the Lakeside and Esplanade shopping DaviD moin

w30a003a;9.indd 3 8/29/12 8:26 PM 08292012202739 4 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 2012

“The eccentric French interior decorator Madeleine Castaing. My colors and prints are directly inspired by her iconic palette, textiles and wallpapers.”

— Anna Sui ▲

“1935’s ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ — so ethereal, fantastical and sensuous.” ▲ — James Mischka and Mark Badgley, Badgley Mischka DESIGNER

“I believe what we wear

INSPIRATIONS III) (PART sometimes disguises From 1935’s “Midsummer Night’s Dream” to 1986’s “Thrashin’,” who we spring’s inﬂuences are as disparate as ever. — Taylor Harris really are.… I am doing a design study about revealing our true selves through

clothing.” ▲ — Norma — RALPH LAUREN Kamali

“American prep “Spare and elemental.” remix. Classic — Yeohlee Teng, Yeohlee sportswear with artisanal textures and prints.” —Tory Burch

“Collage.” — Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler “Techno porcelain.” ▲ — Nanette Lepore WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 2012 5 WWD.COM The List Goes On... “A glamorous evening in the Sixties in Deauville, France.” — Victoria, Victoria Beckham — Dennis Basso

“Metamorphosis: The collection acknowledges the prophetic symbolism of the Luna Moth to exhort the evolution and transformation of an ever-intuitive Bibhu woman.” — Bibhu Mohapatra

“Veruschka for Artisans du Liban et d’Orient, Vogue Paris September 1969.” — Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, Marchesa

“Geometric shapes placed within an organic form.” — Serkan Sarier, Brood

“The nomadic spirit of Americana.” — FRANCISCO COSTA, — Babi and Sachin Ahluwalia, CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION Sachin and Babi

“From the androgynous sophistication of Diane Keaton, the ease and elegance of Jane Birkin and the classical cool that is Ali — Rachel Zoe “BLUE SKIES AHEAD.” MacGraw.” ▲ — MICHAEL KORS “Evasion of the monotony of daily life.” — Sophie Theallet

“The Galapagos Islands.” — Michael Bastian, Gant by Michael Bastian

“Sunrise and sunset of North Africa.” “Spring 2013 is inspired — Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Elizabeth & James by memory.” FOR MORE, SEE — Kate and Laura WWD.com/fashion-news. Mulleavy, Rodarte ▲

“I came across some photographs of these incredible Japanese wisteria gardens — dense tunnels of beautiful purple blossoms.” — Gilles Mendel, J.Mendel

“Limoges porcelain and John Donne poetry.” — Lorry Newhouse “Enchanted garden.”

— Rachel Roy ▲ “California. Sexy. Cool.”— LeAnn Nealz, Juicy Couture

“Texture and color.” — Louise Goldin

“Daydream, blossoming romance…crisp, light “I love you.” and fresh.” — Douglas Hannant — Michelle Smith, Milly — Narciso Rodriguez “Contemporary Surrealism.” “Crusade for clarity.” — Chadwick Bell

“‘Thrashin’,’ the 1986 American cult skateboard ﬁlm.” — Sophia Kokosalaki, Diesel Black Gold ▲

“Flowers and nature as seen through the lens of the Time Life “Kinesio tape, baseball, plissé prints, ﬂak vests, books on nature from the Sixties pigment dye, reﬂective foil, camo lace, Spanish moss.” and Seventies.” — Jeremy Laing ▲ — Tom Mora, J.Crew 6 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 2012

Q & A Anita Anita McBride McBride Cortazar Links Up TAMPA, Fla. — Anita McBride, WWD: Do you feel if Mitt With Net-a-porter former chief of staff for Laura Romney wins, she’ll be the Bush and currently an execu- same kind of champion that shorts, skirts, jackets and tops is tive in residence at American Mrs. Obama has been of young By RACHEL STRUGATZ fashioned from fabrics such as University, sat down with American designers? double-faced duchess satin, cot- WWD on the second day of A.M.: I don’t know. I’m sure the NEW YORK — Esteban Cortazar ton wool, cadi (a mixed polyester the Republican National campaign doesn’t want to be will introduce a namesake col- material from Japan), chiffon Convention here for a discus- presumptive that she will be the A.M.: We’ve just had one day lection during New York Fashion and leather. sion on a variety of topics, first lady. I think she certainly of the convention. We’ve had Week, thanks to a little help from “I didn’t want to do a sports- ranging from Ann Romney’s has style. It is a style that fits two critical speeches in prime Net-a-porter. wear collection. I wanted [to do style, the importance of fash- her. What designer she uses, I’m time…that were really impor- Twenty-eight-year old Cortazar pieces with] a complexity that is ion and style in politics, the not sure. I think the thing that is tant for very different reasons. — who exited his post as head understandable and digestible convention’s message to the really important is that first la- Mrs. Romney’s speech was in- designer at Emanuel Ungaro in — high designer looking clothes so-called “war on women,” the dies are best when they are true tended to, of course, address 2009 upon refusing to work with for high contemporary prices,” shortcomings of the Obama to themselves, when they are Mitt Romney as a man and a Lindsay Lohan — will reveal his Cortazar said of the selection, administration and what Mitt authentic, when they don’t try leader, and then Gov. [Chris] first solo endeavor Sept. 12 on where a rose gold oversize jersey Romney needs to touch on in to change to be someone else. Christie was intended to address Net-a-porter.com. The e-tailer T-shirt starts at $270, a gown can his nomination speech tonight She has a style that fits her, and the most critical problem we worked closely with the designer retail for around $1,800 and the to get the bounce he needs to a I’m sure that’s what she’ll con- face and who is in the best posi- from his early sketches, to pro- most expensive piece is a $2,700 White House victory. tinue to do. It’s very classic and tion to do something about it. I ducing samples, developing a ivory cotton wool coat with a — KRISTI ELLIS elegant. I think how she dresses thought his line that people will pricing structure and now, mar- double-faced duchess satin and lights her up. remember is that the Democrats keting and p.r. efforts. It’s the first goat hair collar. WWD: What role does style play “whistle a happy tune while time a pure play online retailer Cortazar has also created in politics, and where does Ann WWD: What did you think of driving us off the fiscal cliff,” has helped a designer build a corresponding jewelry — a col- Romney fit in to that? Ann Romney’s red dress? (An that is really telling the truth brand from the ground up. lar, a double-finger ring and a Anita McBride: It’s a reality. We Oscar de la Renta she wore about the state our country is in Net-a-porter managing direc- hand bracelet — all 22-karat want our first lady, maybe some during the prime-time speech right now.…We need to address tor Alison Loehnis and fashion di- on Tuesday night.) the serious problems at hand. It rector Holli Rogers were involved Esteban Cortazar A.M.: Nancy Nancy Reagan really set is the budget and deficit, and it in Cortazar’s new collection from Reagan that tone — the Reagan red. is getting people back to work. its inception. The Colombian- in her You’ll never be lost in a crowd. Those are central to the health born designer said the idea was signature She really did radiate a security, of our country and to our stand- hatched almost two years ago, red. a comfort level and a real resil- ing in the world. initially as a small capsule line to ience, too. be sold on Net-a-porter. It shortly WWD: What does Gov. Romney turned into an exclusive relaunch WWD: There has been talk on the need to do to bring his message of the entire brand. Democratic side of a war against home in his speech on Thursday “The way we’re buying his women [by Republicans]. Do you and hit it out of the ballpark? brand — our approach is that believe there is a war against of the way we would buy into women, and why are they put- First Lady a more established brand,” ting that idea forth? Michelle Loehnis said, declining to reveal A.M.: I don’t think there is. I Obama the dollar amount the company think it really is something that has pumped into the venture. has become good campaign She calls the investment “siz- rhetoric but bad policy to be able,” adding that Net-a-porter pushing this kind of fear factor will buy the collection in a “ro- for women. It’s a good sound bust” way. Industry experts es- bite but bad policy. For all of timate that retail sales for the the experience [House Minority brand have the potential to be a gold-plated brass adorned Leader Nancy Pelosi] has in few million in the first year. with jagged white quartz. To the government and all the For the time being, the brand get the complete look, the de- growth she has seen for women will be carried exclusively at the signer partnered with Nicholas and known and presided over, e-tailer, but Cortazar expressed a Kirkwood to design a pair of to perpetrate that this war on desire to eventually open up dis- ivory high-heeled sandals with a women exists, we are setting tribution to select retailers while thick, metallic gold ankle strap ourselves back. Why are we having Net-a-porter remain the that will retail for $860. day a first spouse, to repre- doing that? It’s very backward exclusive online carrier. Loehnis anticipates the line sent us beautifully. We have looking. It’s not forward look- will resonate with con- certainly seen that with Mrs. ing. We fought so hard to have sumers because of its Obama and the focus on fash- a seat at the table, the economic ability to transcend sea- ion, whether she wanted it or table, the legislative table and sons. This is especially not, because she is a beauti- in areas of social issues. important because of ful woman and enjoys wearing the site’s “buy now, wear clothes and is comfortable in WWD: Do you feel that the now” philosophy, as well her own skin. I think people convention theme, “A Better as its international reach like that about her. I think Mrs. Future,” has been delivered (it ships to more than 150 Romney, too, is comfortable successfully, and will it give a countries). with who she is. bounce to Romney? He called the partnership between Net-a- ARCHIVE TRAINA/WWD porter and himself a true Ann Romney in Oscar de la Renta. A.M.: He has to drive home ex- SAL collaboration between re- actly what it is that he would do BY tailer and designer — and on Day One and stay focused… he marvels at the ability

that if we don’t protect our REAGAN the e-tailer has to instant- economy, there is nothing, ﬁrst ly transform a collection or foremost, more important. I Looks from into a global brand by think he has to talk more about the new selling on just one chan- the issues he has raised, such as nel: online.

JEAN/FILMMAGIC; collection. energy independence.…Another Loehnis said that al- priority is to review these regu- though Net-a-porter has

lations that have really hurt VALLERY Cortazar said the 17-look, facilitated Cortazar’s relaunch businesses and why invest- BY 30-piece collection — with a and has put ample marketing ment in the private sector has neutral palette done in vary- and public relations resources stalled, which he really believes OBAMA ing matte and shiny ﬁnishes of at his disposal, it hasn’t set the is due to overwhelming regula- ivory, blush, nude and baby pink designer up with his own house. tion, which he would know as DAROS; — began as a “white canvas” “We helped him kick-start a businessman, and really look that he built upon to signify a the business, and our role is the MARY

at those strongly on Day One. I BY fresh start. His inspiration was 21st-century marketing partner,” think those are definitely two big a house in Barcelona designed she said. “We’re broadcasting his priorities. But the other thing he by Spanish architect Ricardo brand all over the world to an PHOTOS has to do…is to make Americans Bofill. The house is also where incredibly affluent luxury con- believe he can do it. He has to the look book for the line was sumer. It’s a global launch — ex- inspire…and that is as impor- ROMNEY shot this summer. clusive to us in partnership with

tant as knowing how to run a AND The range of modern, draped- him. It’s his design and vision. business, having the character to yet-tailored gowns, trousers with We consider ourselves his mar-

be a leader on the global front. MCBRIDE hardware on the hem and slits, keting partner.” WWD, THURSDAY,WW AUGUSTD thursday, 30, 2012 august 7 30, 2012 7 WWD.COM

The shop is an extension of the “GQ MeMo pad Selects” integrated marketing program Fashion scoops the Condé Nast-owned title launched with Nordstrom in its July issue. Each month, GQ WHOSE TIME FOR T?: The staff at T: The New editors highlight key items from the pages KEEPING UP WITH KIM: well as Karlie Kloss, Iman, York Times Style Magazine was shocked of the magazine that can be purchased from Old Navy and Kim Donald Trump and Henrik when editor in chief Sally Singer announced the Nordstrom men’s e-commerce site. Kardashian have settled Lundqvist. The event — on Wednesday that she would be leaving “It really brings the men’s shop of a lawsuit filed by the which will award style the company by the end of the week. It Nordstrom to life. No one in New York reality star in July kudos for designer, appears the same could not be said for knows what we do yet,” said Fazio. The 2011 alleging that a breakthrough designer, executives at the Times, who are already shop will carry current Nordstrom brands television commercial model, celebrity stylist, talking to a few possible successors. like Todd Snyder, Billy Reid, Band of titled “Super C-U-T-E” accessories designer Deborah Needleman, editor of rival Outsiders and Ralph Lauren. Other brands violated her publicity and athlete, is being WSJ. Magazine, has been mentioned as have been introduced to the retailer by GQ, rights by using a look- held by Penske Media a possibility, although many insiders such as Smart Turnout scarves and Hav- alike model, Canadian Corp., Style Media and believe she wouldn’t walk away from A-Hank handkerchiefs. There will also singer Melissa Molinaro. IMG Fashion. her current gig, where she oversees be corners for Warby Parker eyeglasses, “The lawsuit was — AMY WICKS the glossy magazine and the Off Duty Dashwood books, an Other Music listening resolved to mutual section in The Wall Street Journal’s station, Stumptown Coffee bar and satisfaction of both ANOTHER GAMES: The Weekend Edition. Needleman, reached complimentary Freemans Sporting Club parties, but beyond Duke and Duchess on Thursday on a beach in Indiana, shaves. Exclusive product will include that it’s the only of Cambridge joined far removed from the New York media custom Miansai bracelets and New Balance statement we have,” The Duchess Queen Elizabeth II to world, said, “I love my job. I’m focusing sneakers designed by Moore himself. said Kardashian’s of Cambridge attend London’s on our fall-winter issues right attorney, Gary A. Hecker. Paralympic Games now from the Midwest.” No details about opening ceremony GQ deputy editor Michael the settlement have been filed, but Wednesday. The royal couple, who Hainey has also been mentioned Kardashian was seeking unspecified are ambassadors for Paralympics GB, by several sources as a damages and an order barring the the British team, watched British possible successor to Singer. retailer from using a look-alike model figures including physicist Stephen He was said to be considered again. — MARCY MEDINA Hawking and actor Sir Ian McKellan take for the job two years ago but part in the high-octane event, which was passed over for Singer. NINE WEST’S NEW CONCEPT: Nine West is was conceived by co-artistic directors He could not be reached for about to start an aggressive rollout of Jenny Sealey and Bradley Hemmings. Kate comment. Another name being three new concepts for its retail stores wore a cream coat dress by Day Birger bandied about is Styles editor beginning next week in New York et Mikkelsen, while the Queen was Stuart Emmrich, who is known City. The first boutique, “The World dressed in a floral, pale blue and to be a favorite of the Times’ A rendering of the GQ & Nordstrom Men’s Shop. According to 9,” will open Tuesday cream dress and jacket designed by top brass. He declined comment her dressmaker, Angela Kelly. Wednesday. — AMY WICKS As with the Treasure & Bond store, This week Kate and William are set all profits from the GQ & Nordstrom to attend Paralympics events including GQ’S NORDSTROM LINK: Nordstrom may Men’s Shop will go toward designated goalball and track cycling today, be opening its first New York flagship in New York City charities, which for this while Kate is due to watch swimming 2018, but men’s shoppers will get an early quarter are the National Dance Institute races later in the day and athletics chance to sample the retailer’s wares at and Girls Write Now. The second floor of on Sunday. Prince Harry, who is also an a pop-up shop it will open with GQ from the store will remain open with Treasure ambassador for Paralympics GB, is due Sept. 6 to 16. The 5,500-square-foot “GQ & & Bond merchandise. to make an appearance at the games Nordstrom Men’s Shop” will take over the The men’s store will kick off with a on Monday, to watch swimming events. ground floor of Nordstrom’s Treasure & party on Sept. 6, which coincides with It will be the first public appearance Bond concept store at 350 West Broadway. Fashion’s Night Out, followed by a for the prince since risqué pictures of It will carry fashion, accessories, gadgets series of nightly events, such as an AG him partying in Las Vegas appeared and custom-made pieces, selected by GQ Adriano Goldschmied trunk show, an in a number of newspapers and were creative director Jim Moore and his team, NFL viewing party, a John Varvatos and A rendering of the “Vintage America spread across the Internet last week. along with Tommy Fazio, men’s fashion Chrysler event and a Bombay Sapphire Collection” store in SoHo. Presumably he’ll be clothed for the director at Nordstrom. mixology evening. — DAVID LIPKE games. — NINA JONES at 555 Madison Avenue and features merchandised, editorial walls. The brand sees this approach — comprised of trend-driven walls centered around Bethanie Mattek- themes such as “rocker glam,” “boho Sands in action. chic” and “wall of pumps” — as an easier way to navigate the store. The unit will also house the brand’s For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. premiere handbag “shop-in-shop,” carrying cosmetic cases, wallets, wristlets, mini tech cross-bodys and iPad sleeves. The second ship, “Vintage America Spaces Collection,” will bow in SoHo the same day, an extension of the six-year-old COMMERCIAL line that’s being transformed into a FULL-COURT PRESS: Andy Hilfiger may REAL ESTATE HANDBAG DESIGNER fully realized entity with its own store. know a lot about music, but this week MacKenzie-Childs YOUNG MEN’S APPAREL mages It will carry exclusive products from his interest lies in tennis. He has i Highly creative, playful, wholesome Independent Sales Rep collaborations with former Shopbop lined up Bethanie Mattek-Sands to sport designer sought for luxury personal etty accessories, concept to market, multi-

g Knit young mens tops w/showroom fashion director Kate Ciepluch (with her his Andrew Charles fashion label ple manufacturing resources. Surface in NYC is looking for a sales rep that

lsa/ pattern design, Color sense, Photoshop

own Kate’s Kartel collection), Monica on and off the court. The 27-year- e 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes and Illustrator essential. NY Studio. has strong connections with major by Botkier, Dudine, Cynthia Dugan and old American tennis star has a full [email protected] chain & dept stores in north Ameri-

s Menswear Showrooms Theodora & Callum. schedule at the U.S. Open, competing D D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 ca. Comm only. We own production

On Sept. 18, Nine West will reopen in the singles, doubles and mixed- san MERCHANDISER facilities in Asia with strong produc- K- WOMEN’S SCARVES tion back ground for last 20years. its Lexington Avenue store with nine doubles brackets. Her first-round Showrooms & Lofts Men’s Dress Furnishings firm expand- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS ing into women’s accessories seeking merchandised walls. singles opponent, Venus Williams, proved matte Email [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail merchandiser for women’s scarves. “The new Nine West stores not to be too great a challenge. Mattek- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Minimum 5 years merchandise man- Call 888.316.4442 ext 2 agement experience in better and

only create an amazing new shopping Sands, who was ranked 212th going mages;

i bridge women’s scarves necessary. experience, but revolutionize the way into the tournament, was knocked out Interested parties may email their re- ROAD REPS sume to [email protected] Major manufacturer of strong labels - footwear shops will be merchandised by the seven-time Grand Slammer dresses, skirts, tops - seeks road repre- and marketed in the future,” said Tuesday. sentatives in key multistate locales. ssociation Large in stock position - juniors and Richard Dickson, president and chief Nicknamed the “Lady Gaga of the a junior plus. Fax to 212-398-2579 or email [email protected] executive officer of branded business at tennis world” by some media court ess pR

The Jones Group Inc. — RACHEL STRUGATZ watchers, Mattek-Sands is known for e/ R ATTENTION PATTERNS, SAMPLES,

her offbeat fashion sense. With Andrew Wi PRODUCTIONS CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS pa SET FOR STYLE: The ninth annual Style Charles, she follows in the footsteps Full service shop to the trade. In observance of the Labor Day Holiday, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Awards, which will take place Sept. 5 on of Steven Tyler, who inspired last fall’s DRESS SALESPERSON WWD will not publish on Monday, 9/3 The Stage at New York’s Lincoln Center, collection. The former “American Missy/Women Importer Manufacturer Fairchild offices also will be closed that day. SAMPLE ROOM Knits/Woven. Must have 10+ years is lining up its red-carpet walkers. Idol” judge and his youngest daughter, Rousseau/ Patterns/ samples/ small lots. exp, must have relationship with buy- Deadline for issue of Tuesday, 9/4 will be A slew of designers are expected to Chelsea, also appeared in ads. Hilfiger, Call Angela: 212-944-6900 ers. Salary, Commission & Benefits. Friday, 8/31 at 11am. tefan www.thefactory212.com Send resumes: [email protected] s Thank you for your cooperation. attend, despite the event’s proximity the brand’s creative director, said to New York Fashion Week, including Mattek-Sands is in a similar vein. Carolina Herrera, Reed Krakoff, Vera Wang, “Bethanie Mattek-Sands embodies the Prabal Gurung, Catherine Malandrino, Brian attitude of Andrew Charles. She’s a photo by (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Atwood, Rebecca Minkoff, Stacey Bendet, true rock star on the court,” he said.

Lisa Perry, Reem Acra and Timo Weiland, as — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Duchess

w30a007a.indd 7 8/29/12 8:18 PM 08292012201938 8 WWD thursday, august 30, 2012 Shopping at The Grove. Caruso Grows The Grove {Continued from page one} crowd. It was hugely successful, but we be- he believes will prosper by following in came a babysitter, and we learned a lesson By RACHEL BROWN The Grove’s footsteps. that that didn’t drive sales, that just drove Attracting more than 18 million visitors chaos.” he said. “I always say, ‘We are not LOS ANGELES — A decade after the nation’s pre- annually — more than Disneyland, more an entertainment center. We are a shopping mier lifestyle center, The Grove, opened, Rick Caruso than the Great Wall of China and more center that’s entertaining to be in.’ I think still doesn’t get exactly what a lifestyle center is, but than the Eiffel Tower — Caruso estimated there’s a big difference.” he’s convinced it’s something that’s here to stay. The Grove should end this year with sales Given today’s demanding retail climate, “I don’t really know what the definition is. Some per square foot in excess of $1,400, plac- Caruso contends that shopping centers definitions, I hear there is no anchor. Some defini- ing it among the top-performing shopping must pamper shoppers and retailers must tions, there is an anchor. Some are not more than centers in the nation. The International offer them value, but Caruso Affiliated’s ella 300,000 square feet,” said Caruso, president and chief Council of Shopping Centers reports the growth demonstrates that shoppers will D ar executive officer of Caruso Affiliated, owner of 13 res- average annual sales per square foot in part with their money. “The consumer in s idential and retail properties in Southern California, shopping centers was around $442 as of the United States is over the hump,” he including The Grove and The Americana at Brand. June. The Americana is close behind, gen- said. “They are cautious because I don’t Donato

“We are building what we know the guest responds to, erating nearly $1,200 in sales per square think the average consumer, rightfully by which is an environment that feels more like a street foot, according to Caruso. so, understands all the issues going on in “We’ve had a really good year. At The Europe and how they affect us, and then and is architecturally real, has great landscaping and photos is programmed. Every day there is something hap- Grove, the performance is just unbeliev- you have an election going on.” pening on the property. I think that if that’s the defini- able, and we are investing a lot back into With consumers being finicky about We think we have an opportunity to make He’s tough, and he deserves to be,” said tion of a lifestyle center, it will be successful forever. it,” he said. Ultimately, though, he said, where they spend, he added, “ ‘A’ malls some adjustments.” Drexler. Nordstrom said, “He is focused, It’s natural to the human being — how the human “I’ve always predicted that The Americana, will continue to do well. ‘B’ and ‘C’ malls Nordstrom, which had a store at the and he is committed to seeing things being lives and works and plays.” in the long run, will outpace The Grove in are going to get redeveloped into some- Glendale Galleria, will open a store at The through. Yo u need those qualities in his Caruso has certainly banked the future of his sales, and I’m confident I’m right.” thing else. I don’t think they have a long Americana in fall 2013. “We have been in niche of the business. Our folks have had company — even without him at the helm, should he Caruso calculated his company would life ahead of them. I think the lifestyle Glendale for a long time and have done success working with him because I think choose to step into the race for mayor of Los Angeles pump $20 million into The Grove this centers, like all of our properties, are a lot of business there. The [Glendale he’s pretty straightforward in his commu- — on lifestyle centers being a permanent fixture year to upgrade the lobby and storefronts, going to continue to thrive, because they Galleria] center is a good center, but it is nication. It is easy to know where he stands of the California shopping landscape. With 10-year and enhance services. He is bringing are well located, they are well tenanted, an older center. Rick’s Americana is newer and what he can and cannot do. To date, leases up at The Grove, the shopping center’s ten- Stylehaüs, a personal styling service, in they are well designed and they fit the and more current, and the mix of tenants his word has been good.” ant mix is shifting to make room for retailers that with the upgrades to provide customers needs of the community.” and other attributes are very attractive,” Caruso considers his personality a good have track records of recent success. And Caruso access to clothes that are right for them, The Grove’s results have allowed said Nordstrom. “We just always aspire to fit for a political campaign (“I would find it Affiliated is pursuing an expansion program de- regardless of whether those items are sold Caruso to engage in leases with shorter be in the best locations.” fun,” he said) — and Angelenos might get signed to double its net operating income within the at The Grove. Caruso argues that if people terms and no options, but that hasn’t dis- Additions to The Americana this year a chance to judge if that’s the case. He has next five years, in part by acquiring properties that come to his shopping centers, they will suaded retailers. They are clamoring to include Ilori and Disney Baby. toyed with the idea of running for mayor shop or eat. “The spend rate on our prop- secure space, and wait lists are the norm. Although The Americana and The for quite some time and said he would erties is twice that of a mall,” he said. “Our Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chief executive Grove, where Caruso maintains an office, determine if he is going to run within conversion rate is 90 percent, which is un- officer of J. Crew Group Inc. and a critic are clearly the gems of Caruso Affiliated, weeks. He has already prepared his com- heard of on a property. Malls, on average, of malls, said the reason is simple: “The Caruso is looking beyond them to build his pany to operate without him in the event are 50 percent, so we have more people Grove is arguably the best shopping center company. Graphs on the company’s Web he becomes a candidate. “I would appoint spending more frequently on the prop- in Los Angeles, the most productive, draw- site show compound annual growth rates an interim ceo and there would be [chief erties, but we put them in a good mood. ing the most people.” in its revenues and its asset base of 19 per- operating officer] Paul [Kurzawa] and the When people are in a good mood, they are He added, “I think he [Caruso] is ex- cent and 15 percent, respectively, since executive committee that would run the going to spend.” tremely picky about his tenants. He is al- 1996 — and Caruso is making moves to company,” he outlined. In addition to Stylehaüs, the new slate ways working to improve the center. Any keep the momentum going. He said there Caruso’s possible platform will rely of retailers at The Grove will be a major great center is the vision of the developer.” are three properties in the Los Angeles heavily on his business background. “ Yo u draw. Topshop, scheduled to of- area that he is interested in buying, have got to create an environment in which ficially open in February, is prob- two retail and one residential. people want to invest in the city. I know ably its biggest coup. After some Outside of Los Angeles, Caruso from my experience building things inside two years of negotiations, Topshop is making a push into Northern of Los Angeles and outside of Los Angles owner Sir Philip Green decided California and the San Diego re- that in Los Angeles, it is unbelievably upon a 25,000-square-foot store gion. In Northern California, he di- complicated and difficult, and it shouldn’t at The Grove that had housed vulged, “there are about three that be,” he said. He continued, “ Yo u also have Banana Republic, which has relo- we would like to get. There’s one got to get rid of the gross sales tax in this cated to a former Victoria’s Secret that we are about to sign a purchase city. Yo u can take your business and move space, for the first Topshop in agreement on, and we are excited it to Glendale or El Segundo and have no California. Michael Kors will also about that.” In the San Diego area, gross sales tax. So El Segundo has picked enlarge its footprint at the center he said, “We are planning on build- up most of the businesses that have moved with a fresh store, while Vince is ing a project that is very much The out of L.A.” heading to Michael Kors’ current Grove. Right now, we are calling it Winning the race for mayor won’t spot. PacSun will become a J. Crew The Grove as a working name. We be easy. Caruso did get help last week Men’s store, one of the first outside are in escrow.” Long before the when Los Angeles County Supervisor Zev of New York, and the existing J. shovels enter the ground on those Yaroslavsky, who would have perhaps been Crew store will be strengthened projects, Caruso will have polished the front-runner, said he wouldn’t run. Still, by inserting J. Crew Collection. off 8500, a complex with 88 luxury the remaining candidates — City Controller Madewell will open where Arden apartments, a Trader Joe’s and an Wendy Greuel, and City Council members B. is, and Nordstrom will start re- eatery called The Larder at 8500 Eric Garcetti and Jan Perry — will provide modeling its store soon to finish a Burton Way in L.A. fierce competition. Sherry Bebitch Jeffe, a restaurant and an expanded shoe The best-laid plans have not al- senior fellow at the University of Southern department, among other improve- ways turned into retail reality for California and political analyst for KNBC ments, possibly by summer 2013. Caruso Affiliated. He tried for seven Los Angeles, said Caruso has the advan- “We are adding the best retail- years to put a shopping center in tages of having a deep well to draw from ers in the country—frankly, in the Santa Anita, but stopped that pro- for campaign funding — the Los Angeles world,” said Caruso, who contin- cess last year. His partner in the ef- Business Journal this year approximated ued, “We are looking at adding a fort, Magna Entertainment Corp., his net worth at $2.2 billion — and the little bit more luxury, but we don’t I always say, ‘ We are not an had filed for bankruptcy, and Caruso ability to emphasize his role as a govern- want to be Rodeo Drive. We still faced opposition from rival shopping ment outsider. On the other hand, she said want to have a pretty wide band so entertainment center. We center Westfield Santa Anita. his problems are that he isn’t well known that there are a lot of shopping op- Caruso doesn’t shy away from op- and his business background alone won’t portunities. We just always want are a shopping center that’s position. He fought pitched battles persuade voters that he should be mayor. to be ahead of the curve. I know in against Glendale Galleria owner Bebitch Jeffe said, “It just doesn’t count retail if you are not evolving and General Growth Properties Inc. in that you are a businessman and you remind moving forward, you are falling entertaining to be in.’ I think court and the ballot box over The people of [former mayor] Richard Riordan. behind very quickly.” Americana. He prides himself on Yo u have to have a lot more.” The retail mix isn’t solely re- there’s a big difference. taking on difficult developments Caruso is not discouraged. “If I didn’t sponsible for Caruso Affiliated’s where barriers to entry are high. In think I could win, I wouldn’t spend a lot performance. The company has — Rick caRuso, caRuso affiliated the early days of Caruso Affiliated, of time thinking about it,” he said. “We’ve been a pioneer in using its facili- he said, an “underlying premise was done a number of polls. We understand ties for entertainment purposes. Its prop- Caruso Affiliated details the center’s that I wanted to find properties that had the voter base pretty well. I think the tim- erties host around 350 events a year, and customer has a median age of 35 and an av- complicated entitlements that we could ing is right, because there is a frustration The Grove receives television exposure erage household income of $125,000. get through and, since I had been a [police] level in the city. The two or three competi- every weekday due to the celebrity news The Nordstrom at The Grove “has from commissioner with the city, I sort of under- tors are all terrific people, but they are show “Extra” filming at the shopping cen- Day One performed well and exceeded stood how the bureaucracy worked and part of the problem, not part of the solu- ter. Caruso asserts the events are critical, our expectations,” said Nordstrom Inc. how I could get through the bureaucracy.” tion. They’ve been there for years and but stresses not all of them are right for president Blake Nordstrom. The company Caruso admits he is highly competi- years and years. So I think the timing is his properties. “A concert — I don’t want to is remodeling the store, he said, because tive, and Drexler said he can be dogged in very right and the polling shows that. The name a name of the entertainer we’ve had “we want to make sure that store in that leasing negotiations. “He has a great prod- challenge for me is making the decision to on the property —pulled a very, very young environment is current and up to date. uct, and he charges for his great product. step away from the company.”

w30a008b.indd 8 8/29/12 8:15 PM 08292012201652 POLS OF THE WEEK PLUS: A look at J. Press York Street, the new collection Political Posturing designed by Ariel and While Mitt Romney seems to have lost some of Shimon Ovadia for the his on-the-trail ﬂair, President Obama’s style venerable Ivy League beﬁts the Commander in Chief. Page MW4 specialty store. Page MW2

August 30, 2012

RETAIL ROLLOUT Jos. A. Bank Dressy To Expand To 800 Stores Street Specialty chain also posts 12.7 percent profit jump in second quarter. Casual Fridays are a thing of the past. Whether they opt by JEAN E. PALMIERI for a traditional navy suit in JOS. A BANK CLOTHIERS INC. has put its a more formfitting shape or a foot back on the accelerator. contemporary variation, men After a minor stumble in the first quarter, the Hampstead, Md.-based retailer said sec- in the financial community ond-quarter profits topped expectations and today understand the power that it was aggressively planning to increase its store count. The company currently oper- of dressing — a phenomenon ates 572 stores, but said it now envisions an that is driving sales of men’s 800-unit chain. The previous plan had been to grow to between 650 and 675 stores. The wear for retailers around the goal now is to eventually operate 700 full- country. For more on Wall line stores and 100 factory outlets. The company attributed its heightened Street fashion, see page MW3. expansion plan to the “positive operating results of the new full-line and factory stores [it] has opened in the past several years” and its “strong balance sheet.” The retailer will open 45 to 50 stores in both fiscal years 2012 and 2013, a number that includes about 10 outlets each year. “We are very excited to announce this increase in our store growth potential and the continuance of this very important part of our overall growth program,” said R. Neal Black, chairman and chief executive officer. “This increase further solidifies the strength of our brand, which continues to gain prom- inence in the U.S. market through our existing store presence, our advertising and marketing campaigns and our e-commerce platforms, among other factors.” He said the company’s previous goal was to have 600 full-line and 50 to 75 factory outlets. “We’ve mapped every zip code in the USA and we are confident in these new numbers. Now we just have to get the right real estate deals, and doing that will dictate the time frame. We have opened 16 stores already this year and we think we will get a total of 45 to 50 open both this year and next year, which includes 10 factory stores in each year.” In the second quarter ended July 28, profits rose 12.7 percent to $23.2 million, or 83 cents a diluted share, from $20.6 million, or 74 cents, a year earlier. Earnings per share came in 10 cents ahead of the 73 cents analysts, on average, had projected. Sales for the three months ended July 28 increased 12.9 percent to $260.3 million from $230.7 million as same-store sales rose 6.1 percent and direct marketing revenues advanced 39.3 percent. This contrasts to the first quarter when the company had a rare sales and revenue miss, posting a 16.7 percent decline in first- quarter profits on a 4.2 percent sales gain. In the second quarter, gross margin re- ceded to 58.7 percent of sales from 62.4 PHOTO BY RYAN KIBLER percent in the comparable 2011 quarter, {Continued on page MW2} MW2 WWD Thursday, augusT 30, 2012 Men’s Week Ovadia & Sons Mines J. Press Heritage for York Street Line

Press’ heritage will always be at the core of Looks from everything we do in the future, and they were J. Press York fascinated by the idea of infusing new into old.” Street. ovadia likened working with J. Press to finding a “sunken ship with treasure” that he and his brother can now revive. Ariel ovadia said, “we had a vision of bringing the brand up to date with great fresh clothing while still keeping with the company’s rich history and traditions, and we believe that the spring 2013 collection of York street has accom- plished just that.” Among the pieces are sack suits in an updated silhouette for $495 to $750; a modern raincoat in a double-faced water-resis- tant British Millerain fabric; woven shirts in 80s two-ply cottons for $98 to $130; ties, socks and scarves in Ivy League colors, and grosgrain belts. the name of the collection is derived from the location of the first store opened by Jacobi Press on Yale’s campus in 1902, on 262 York street. eiichi Niitsuma s “this year marks J. Press’ 110th year in

by business, and we are very excited to introduce a modern evolution of our heritage

Photos with the J. Press York street collection.” okita said. onward Kashiyama bought the by JEAN E. PALMIERI Cambridge, Mass. and washington, D.C. — weren’t interested in trying to change the core business in 1986. and ovadia said a freestanding store for the of what J. Press is and what it stands for. Ariel In addition to the J. Press collection, the It Now hAs a name and an aggressive line will open in the spring in New York and shimon understood that the brand is not ovadia brothers have created a new line for marketing plan. City. “when the owners of the company a borrowed heritage, that J. Press has a real Barneys New York under the label ovadia & J. Press York street is the moniker for the saw the line, they decided to add it to their provenance, and they respected that. Another sons New York. shimon ovadia said the line new collection designed by Ariel and shimon existing stores,” ovadia said. “they won’t positive aspect is the fact that they are young, is designed to appeal to a “more advanced cus- ovadia of ovadia & sons for the venerable Ivy carry the entire collection, but will mix but still they understand and respect the DNA tomer” and features “more elevated fabrics, League specialty store. the collection, which pieces [into their existing assortment.] And of this storied American clothier. For them, J. bodies and design details.” A wool bomber will be previewed next week for a spring then they’re going to open a stand-alone jacket with a fur collar, sport coats, wool flan- launch, consists of a few-hundred pieces shop in the spring,” he said, although the nel shooting vests, dress shirts, sport shirts ranging from swim trunks and tank tops to ac- location has not been determined. and ties are among the pieces created for the cessories and suits. Yu k i okita, president and chief executive retailer. “It’s its own little world,” shimon “My brother and I designed it,” said officer of J. Press, said distribution will be ovadia said. the collection is being offered shimon ovadia. “And it came together expanded outside the U.s. starting next year. for the fall season. quickly. It’s a total lifestyle brand. we didn’t “we are planning to distribute J. Press the ovadias grew up working in the fam- g

do footwear, but we did everything else.” York street in Japan and Asia from next N ily’s children’s wear business, Magic Kids hu c

As reported, the ovadia twins were fall, with the U.K. to follow shortly thereaf- Inc., a $10 million distribution company tapped by J. Press to serve as creative direc- ter,” he said. N that specializes in closeouts, and launched

tors of a new line of men’s wear, a line that is he said the company “put much thought Justi their vintage-inspired men’s collection in

also being wholesaled to other select stores, and consideration into partnering with Ariel by 2010. the brand offers a modern interpreta- including Fred segal, according to ovadia. and shimon as creative directors for the tion of American and English classics, and

It will be carried in the four J. Press new J. Press York street range. Ultimately, Photos it was recently named one of GQ’s Best New stores — Manhattan, New haven, Conn., we wanted to work with them because they Ovadia & Sons New York is a Barneys exclusive. Menswear Designers in America.

Selfridges Expands Men’s Offering Jos. A. Bank to Add 50 Stores a Year by sAMANthA CoNtI and accessories. the architect Alex Cochrane {Continued from page MW1} has designed the space around three sculp- while the decline in operating margin was LoNDoN — two years ago, the best-selling tural plinths. the floor is made from stones smaller, a descent of 70 basis points to 14.3 suit at selfridges was gray — across all de- cut in a hexagonal pattern, while freestand- percent of sales from 15 percent a year ago. signers and labels. ing rails made from brass with a bronze finish Black said he attributed the uptick in Boy, have times changed. are meant to invite the customer in to wander the second quarter to “a refreshing of our this week, the store is unveiling a new and explore. the overall feeling is meant to marketing formats, particularly new cre- men’s designer area, Destination: Men’s be organic and fluid. ative formats on tV and in direct mail.” wear, in the first floor atrium of the oxford there will also be a feature wall of he detailed that suits continue to lead the street store. the 3,240-square-foot space highly polished steel at the back that will way, driven by tailored and slim-fit mod- will feature labels new to the store includ- be used for brand-specific pop-up concepts. els. “tailored fit is particularly strong being Lanvin and Marni, as well as Balenciaga, the wall will launch with an installation cause it’s a model that a man with an av- saint Laurent Paris, Comme des Garçons, by Lanvin. “From the start, we challenged erage body shape can wear for a trimmer Junya watanabe, Jil sander and Rick owens. the conventional approaches towards and more modern look,” Black said. the focus will be on fashion pieces, and retail design, luxury and display,” said he said promotional activity remains Jos. A Bank’s store count is expected to rise to 800. straight-off-the-runway styles, according Cochrane.“In essence, our approach was “very important and customers still want to David walker-smith, director of men’s sculpture park meets retail.” deals. they are watching their spending is seeing positive momentum so far in the wear. “Men are buying statement pieces, walker-smith added: “the space is sim- and looking for value. I expect it to remain third quarter. and color and print are being recognized. ple so that the product can sing.” that way through the rest of the year.” “Keeping in mind that sales are just today, men are dressing to say: ‘this is who the store has also turned much of its at- Investors, who are always eager one component of net income, and that I am.’ they are embracing fashion with tention to the fitting rooms, which are done for pleasant surprises and continued sales for any one month are not neces- confidence,” said walker-smith in his sun- in cobalt blue, with gray tweed. the area expansion, pushed shares of the firm up sarily indicative of sales for the entire drenched office at the store. will offer beer, coffee and tea and have a 14 percent to $47.44 in trading on wall quarter, we are nevertheless pleased to he said Prada men’s has been outper- sofa for shopping buddies. street on wednesday. announce that the third quarter has start- forming, with men preferring to pick up the new department is only part of the In a research report issued wednesday, ed out positively,” he said. “Both our com- runway and catwalk pieces rather than clas- story. In November, walker-smith will over- Margaret whitfield of sterne Agee raised her parable-store sales and direct marketing sics and staples. with tom Ford, the items see the opening of the nearby men’s shoe full-year earnings estimates for the company sales are up in fiscal August compared to featured in the designer’s lookbooks and ad- hall, a 10,000-square-foot space — double to $3.67 a share from $3.55, and elevated the the same period last year.” vertising are the biggest sellers. “that busi- the size of the previous one — with brands stock’s target price to $60 from $57. the earnings “beat” in the second quar- ness has been way above what we originally ranging from Converse to tod’s and Prada. she said the comp-store sales increase ter wasn’t quite sufficient to elevate the planned,” he said, referring to Ford. Designed by the Belgian architect Vincent in the second quarter was “led by trans- company’s year-to-date profits. For the six overall, the men’s designer business at Van Duysen, the space will have three brand actions as Jos. A. Bank focused upon months, net income was down 1 percent, to the store is witnessing double-digit growth, boutiques and two bespoke salons as well as a big-ticket items with strong unit growth $38 million, or $1.36 a diluted share, from said walker-smith, with some of the big- pop-up area for special projects. in suits and dress shirts with moderate $38.3 million, or $1.37, in the first half of 2011. gest increases coming from labels such as there will be 250 brands on offer, and ex- growth in sportswear and other tailored Aided by a 2.9 percent increase in same- Vivienne westwood, Maison Martin Margiela clusives by Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Kenzo [apparel.]” the 370-basis-point decline store sales and a 19.8 percent growth rate and Givenchy. walker-smith declined to give and Lanvin. walker-smith said it would be a in gross margin was “offset in part by im- for direct marketing, revenues expanded 8.9 any sales figures or projections. “total destination” that will be organized by provement in sales and marketing and percent to $461.7 million from $423.9 million. the opening is part of a multi-million dol- category, such as driving shoes, made-to-mea- general and administrative” costs. — With Contributions lar redevelopment strategy for men’s wear sure, classics, collaborations and catwalk. Looking ahead, Black said the company from ArnoLD J. KArr

w30b002(3)a.indd 2 8/29/12 7:17 PM 08292012191848 Men’s Week WWD thursday, august 30, 2012 MW3

PHotos BY RYan kiBleR Back to Business Even during the unrelenting heat of a New York City summer, today’s Wall Street workers understand the need for dressing to impress. While dark blue and gray suits still rule in the caverns of downtown Manhattan, some guys are expressing their individual style with bow ties, boutonnieres and updated sport coats. — ALEX BADIA

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Scott James Sets Growth Strategy Saint James Opens Store in N.Y.’s West Village

by Jean e. PaLmieRi ers including Bloomingdale’s, Oak Saint JameS has dropped an- reclaimed driftwood, display Hall, taylor Richards & Conger, chor in the West Village. boxes made from jute, and histor- SCOtt JameS is expanding its Kilgore trout and others. mr. Sid the French nautical brand ical photos of the brand that was footprint. in newton, mass., and Shaia’s in has relocated its new Yo r k founded over 120 years ago. “We the men’s sportswear brand, Birmingham, ala., recently installed City store from 79th Street and really want people to feel the his- which is owned by Hampshire in-store shops for the label. madison avenue to 319 Bleecker tory of the company,” he said. Group Ltd., will open a new store the brand also showed at the last Street, as it seeks to be closer to Saint James is known for pro- in Boston and begin distributing its Pitti Uomo men’s show in Florence its customer base. ducing the striped Breton shirt collection in Canada. the company and will be opening a showroom “a lot of our customers come that has been part of the French has also created a boys’ wear line in milan this fall, Golden said, add- from downtown,” said Guillaume naval uniform since 1848. the 21 for Bloomingdale’s. ing that, in addition to europe and Jamet, general manager for the stripes on the combed cotton jer- Heath Golden, president and Canada, the company is targeting U.S. division. “they’re artists and sey correspond to a naval victory bILL

chief executive officer of Hampshire, australia and mexico for the future. young people, so it made sense to of napoleon’s French fleet against d

which purchased the label two years Closer to home, Golden said move closer to where they live the British, according to company R ago, said the moves are all part of the the company will open a new Scott and shop.” the madison avenue lore. its fisherman sweater has ackya b plan to broaden the brand’s distribu- James store at 173 newbury Street unit opened seven years ago and been worn by anglers since the by

tion and take it international. in Boston in early September. the was the company’s first store out- 19th century and the brand still O t

the first step is the signing of a 1,187-square-foot store replaces a side of France, but the brand has outfits the French army and navy O h p three-year licensing agreement with larger unit on the same block that evolved over the past few years with their official uniform sweat- the Saint James calendar models are Oneagency, part of the trimera had been opened by the brand’s and it was time for a new look. ers. its factory is still located in wearing the Barneys’ capsule collection. Group, to distribute Scott James in designer, Scott James Kuhlman, “this is a great occasion to the village of Saint-James, popu- IntERIOR OF thE StORE Canada, beginning with the spring before company was acquired by tell our story and offer the Saint lation 3,000, about 13 miles from new York. the collection con- phOtO by JOhn aqUInO collection. “their knowledge, ex- Hampshire. “there was no real in- James experience,” he said. mont Saint-michel. sists of eight pieces based on tensive network of clients and well- vestment in it,” Golden said. “and the 600-square-foot store, Jamet said there are no plans Saint James’ history as a manu- established track record of distribut- it had a month-to-month lease. which opened Wednesday, car- to add more stores in the States facturer of hefty knitwear. it in- LOOkS (bIcycLE ImaGE) ing great brands in this market will But by accident, we did really well ries both men’s and women’s at this point. “We’re going to have cludes classic american styles be extremely valuable to us,” Golden there, so we decided to open a apparel and accessories, and it just this one for now,” he said. such as varsity jackets, shawl said. Rosa Costa, president of permanent store.” includes several limited-edition “We’re crossing our fingers, but collar cardigans, bomber jackets, Oneagency, said Scott James “with He said if the store continues to products, such as special colors we think it’ll be a great store. knit pants, crewneck sweatshirts its european flair for combining fab- perform well, the company would and cuts of Saint James classics. and we want to tell our story in and Henley shirts with a French ric and fit with affordable style…fills consider adding other doors in the it is designed to “feel like other places, so eventually we flair. all of the pieces were man- a void in our marketplace.” future “in a handful of great cities.” you’re on the French Riviera and will have a few more, but not ufactured in France and retail Golden said there’s a “net spill- On the wholesale end, Scott it’s been there for centuries — right away.” from $115 for the Henley to $625 over effect” into Canada when U.S. James has created a boys’ collection but modern as well,” Jamet said. in addition to the new store, for the cardigan. the capsule brands begin to gain traction. “and exclusively for Bloomingdale’s. it is Channeling its nautical roots, the Saint James has created its first will be carried in Barneys’ stores we felt the aesthetic, and price-value being sold alongside John Varvatos store features shelves made from capsule collection for Barneys in new York, Beverly Hills, San relationship we offer would be appli- and Hugo Boss in a newly installed Francisco and online. cable to Canada. We believe there’s a area within the 59th Street flag- the company also commis- big opportunity for us there.” ship, as well as in Short Hills, n.J., sioned a calendar that was given He said the company hopes to aventura, Fla., and Sherman Oaks, out at an event Wednesday night get the brand positioned in the best Calif. the line includes knits, bot- celebrating the store and the specialty stores in that country. in toms, sweaters and outerwear. launch of the capsule collection. the U.S., it is sold in high-end retail- “We found out Scott James can the calendar was shot by Bill look great scaled down,” Golden said. Gentle of Backyard Bill and fea- earlier this month, Hampshire tures new York personalities, in- a look reported a net loss for the second cluding John and mark Barboni, from quarter of $3.8 million, or 51 cents owners of Hudson Clearwater res- Scott a diluted share, versus net income taurant; photographer mirabelle James’ of $3.1 million, or 55 cents, for the marden; architect Kelechi Odu; spring year-ago period. Sales more than author Glenn O’Brien, and his son line. quintupled to $18.1 million from and actor alex Burns. O $3.5 million. n the Saint James collection is UI q

Golden said Scott James is a carried in over 220 retailers in

“still the smallest thing we do as hn the U.S. Worldwide, it operates a corporation, but has a higher J O over 50 stores, including 10 in by O

gross margin [than our other busi- t Japan. the line is also available O h

nesses] and is a critical part of our p in europe, Korea and China. romney: corporate strategy.” the store is located on christopher Street. — J.E.P. face: He’s obviously feeling the heat; try some blotting paper. at least his hair still looks debonair. shirt collar: Sport shirts are more appropriate with casual pants. With a suit pant, stick to a dress shirt. shirt: With many brands now offering formfitting shirts, no need to continue going for the boxy, oversize cut. right sleeve: a cleaner fold would help look less sloppy. Pols of pants: Formfitting pants, maybe in a cotton blend, would be better suited for the occasion. shoes: the comfy orthopedic driving shoes are totally inappropriate with a dress pant and make him look THE WEEK Barack OBama: a- // mitt rOmney: c+ dumpy and old.

Obama: He’s obviously feeling the hair: every president goes gray, and Obama is no exception. But his salt-and-pepper locks make him look Long gone are the every president goes heat; try some blotting more seasoned. gray, and Obama is no paper. at least his hair still shirt: the slim white shirt is empowering and sleek. days when Mitt exception. But his salt- looks debonair. tie: the tie has been loosened enough to make him look approachable and relaxed yet still in control. and Romney dressed with and-pepper locks make the blue and white repp stripe is elegant and all-american. him look more seasoned. a cleaner fold would help cuff: Bravo — this is exactly the way to roll a cuff. a European flair like look less sloppy. pleat in the pant: the single pleat allows for a bit of shape and adds a playful sophistication. when he was vying cuff on pant: the cuffed pant works perfectly with the dress shoe and helps balance the formal yet casual O

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appropriate with casual p enough to make him look ap

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to a dress shirt. cc presidential and vice presidential race in its new Pols of the Week feature. the Republican nod, yet still in control. and the vU blue and white repp stripe is

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no need to continue going mn O R the other hand, Barack the slim white shirt is for the boxy, oversize cut. ;

empowering and sleek. GES Obama continues to Formfitting pants, maybe in a ttyIma look like the man in cotton blend, would be better E /G

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polished and sharp. the cuffed pant works driving shoes are totally S a by

perfectly with the dress inappropriate with a dress O t EdITOR’s NOTE: In honor of the presidential campaign season, shoe and helps balance the pant and make him look O Men’s Week is focusing on the presidential and vice formal-yet-casual approach. dumpy and old. presidential race in its new Pols of the Week feature. Obama ph

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