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(12) EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION

(43) Date of publication: (51) |nt CI.6: D05B 23/00 01.12.1999 Bulletin 1999/48

(21) Application number: 99830277.2

(22) Date of filing: 07.05.1999

(84) Designated Contracting States: (72) Inventor: Migliorini, Pier Lorenzo AT BE CH CY DE DK ES Fl FR GB GR IE IT LI LU 52028 Terranuova Bracciolini (Arezzo) (IT) MC NL PT SE Designated Extension States: (74) Representative: Martini, Lazzaro AL LT LV MK RO SI Studio Brevetti Ing. Dr. Lazzaro Martini s.r.l. Via dei Rustici 5 (30) Priority: 26.05.1998 IT FI980125 50122 Firenze (IT)

(71) Applicant: Matec S.p.A. 50018 Scandicci (Firenze) (IT)

(54) Method and apparatus for applying a gusset to articles such as pantyhose and the like

(57) Apparatus for the formation of gussets to be ap- apt to engage a corresponding side of the ribbon (30), plied in the crotch region of pantyhose articles upon the said second plane (8) being movable from and to the assembly thereof on a machine having a plurality of ribbon (30)-inputting section (I) and said third plane (9), shapes (2) over which the stockings to be assembled to located downstreaam of the cutting unit (4), being mov- form pantyhose articles are fitted in pairs, the gussets able between a position in which it results in face-to-face being formed out of a ribbon (30), coming from a rele- relationship with the second plane (8) and a position in vant input section (I), by means of a cutter (4) located which it engages the individual gussets (66) already downstream of said section (I), characterized in that it formed, in an arrangement suitable for the transfer comprises a first plane (7) upstream of the cutting unit thereof to the crotch region of the pantyhose article (Fig. (4), a second and a third planes (8,9) each of which is 1).

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Description [0009] This result has been achieved, according to the invention, by providing an apparatus and a method [0001] The present invention refers to a method and having the features indicated in the characterizing part apparatus for applying a gusset to textile articles such of claim 1 . Further characteristics being set forth in the as pantyhose and the like. 5 dependent claims. [0002] As known to those skilled in the art, a panty- [0010] The advantages deriving from the present in- hose article provided with a gusset is obtained starting vention lie essentially in that it is possible to reduce the from a product obtained by assembling two stockings time of the whole cycle for the formation and application sewn together to form the pantyhose bodice and without of the gussets, thereby reducing the time for the manu- them in correspondence of the crotch region. 10 facturing of the article provided with gusset; that during Provision is made afterwards for stretching the edge of the handling of the individual gussets, the latter result the seamless region of said article according to the engaged and moved more effectively and safely than it shape of the gusset to be applied, bringing close thereto is allowed by the devices presently known; that an ap- a gusset having a shape and dimensions suitable for paratus according to the invention is simple to make, covering the region without fabric of the thus stretched is relatively cost-effective and reliable even after a pro- article, and eventually sewing the gusset to the article longed life service. which is subsequently unloaded at an operating station [0011] These and other advantages and characteris- other than that for applying and sewing the gusset. tics of the invention will be best understood by anyone [0003] To this end, a device for the application of the skilled in the art from a reading of the following descrip- gussets is associated to the machine that provides for 20 tion in conjunction with the attached drawings given as the assembly of the stockings, said device being provid- a practical exemplification of the invention, but not to be ed at an operating station downstream of the stations in considered in a limitative sense, wherein: which the loading, positioning, longitudinal cutting and sewing together of the two stockings intended to form Fig. 1 is a schematic sectional view, taken through the pantyhose article are carried out. 25 a plane orthogonal to the working axis of the cutter, [0004] The devices presently known for gusset appli- of an apparatus according to the invention in the cation, especially those intended for applying rhomboid process of forming a gusset; gussets, comprise means for feeding a fabric ribbon Fig. 2 is a schematic plan view of the apparatus of from which the gussets are formed, means for cutting Fig. 1, showing in particular the ribbon-feeding and the ribbon into rhomboid gussets, the being oriented 30 gussets-forming plane, the shapes of the machine with respect to the longitudinal axis so as to form an an- for assembling the pantyhose articles, and the gle therewith of a predetermined amplitude correspond- means for the transfer of the gussets from the said ing to the wanted length of the rhombus diagonals, and formation plane to the same shapes; means for taking out the thus formed gussets and mov- Fig. 3 shows a detail of the apparatus in section ing them from the gusset-forming region to the region 35 view similar to that of Fig. 1, in the configuration tak- where the same gussets are applied on the stockings to en up prior to the transfer of a gusset; be assembled. Fig. 4 shows the deatil of Fig. 3 with the gusset in [0005] A drawback with these known devices lies in the process of being transferred to the pantyhose- the fact that the formation of a gusset out of the said supporting shapes; ribbon is possible only after the application of the gusset 40 - Fig. 5 shows the apparatus of Fig. 4 at the end of previously formed. In other words, each gusset can be the ribbon movement; formed only after the previous gusset has been trans- Fig. 6A is a plan view of the group for the transfer ferred in correspondence of the shapes of the machine of gussets from the exit section of the apparatus to that assembles the stockings into pantyhose articles. As the shapes of the machine which assembles the a consequence, the time of the cycle for the formation 45 panyhose articles, under rest condition, that is, prior and application of the gussets results too long in relation to said transfer; to the current production requirements. Fig. 6B shows the detail of Fig. 6A in the configura- [0006] Us patents Nos. 4704976 and 4640162 dis- tion taken up during the gusset-transfer stage. close an apparatus and a method for the formation and application of rhomboid gussets on stockings to be as- 50so [0012] The apparatus according to the invention is in- sembled into pantyhose articles. tended for placement into a corresponding operating [0007] The main object of the present invention is to station of a horizontal carrousel machine, for example provide a system for forming and moving rhomboid gus- of "line closer" type, for the assembly of pantyhose ar- sets for pantyhose articles which makes it possible to ticles, downstream of the stations in which, according to significantly reduce the time for the relevant cycle. 55 procedures known to the experts in the field, the oper- [0008] A further object of the present invention is to ations for loading, positioning, longitudinal cutting and ensure a more effective action for retaining the gussets sewing together the stockings are performed. In the fig- in the process of formation. ures of the attached drawings, the only parts shown of

2 3 EP 0 960 969 A2 4 this machine are the shapes (2) which support the stock- deviation of the moving ribbon (30). Mounted below the ings during the work, the shapes (2) being disposed, in cutting unit (4) is a first, steady, suction plate (7) so that the gussets-application station, in open condition, that the ribbon (30) to be cut results interposed between the is, with the stocking legs being suitably stretched apart said unit (4) and the first suction plate (7) itself. The f unc- to receive a corresponding gusset. In this station, the 5 tion of said plate (7) is to be described later on. Mounted stockings result already sewn in correspondence of the downstream of the cutter (4) area second suction plate bodice, save for the crotch region where the gusset must (8) located above the ribbon (30)-sliding plane and a be applied. third suction plate (9) located below the second plate [0013] The apparatus in question has a base (1) with (8). The second suction plate (8) is mounted, likewise a substantially box-like structure and a support (31) for 10 the gripper (5), in a way that enables it to translate from a ribbon reel of textile material from which the individual and to the cutter (4) onto the ribbon (30)-feeding plane gussets are formed. The said base (1) has a section (I) (P) under control of a relevant actuator (not shown in for the introduction of the ribbon (30) to be cut and a the figures of the attached drawings). The said third suc- section (U) for the exit of the already formed gussets, tion plate (9) is mounted for rotation about a horizontal that is, the gussets cut out of the ribbon (30) and rotated is axis (90) oriented parallel to the front side of the base (as described in more details later on) to allow for the structure (1 ). In this way, the said third plate (9) may be application thereof on the pantyhose in the process of disposed horizontally, upon the formation of the gus- formation. The base (1) supports a cutter (4) intended sets, that is, during the ribbon (30)-cutting phase, and to cut the ribbon (30) into lengths, that is, into rhomboid vertically, in correspondence of the section (U) for the gussets of preset width. To this end, the said cutter (4) 20 exit of the gussets, to allow the latter to be transferred is positioned onto the base (1 ) so that the cutting direc- from said plane (p) to the stockings being present on the tion of the ribbon (30) will form an angle of predeter- shapes (2). The rotation of the plate (9) is operated by mined amplitude with the axis (m-m) of advancement an actuator (93) having a vertical axis connected to the thereof onto the relevant plane (P) of the strucuture (1 ). shaft (90) via a small arm (92). The suction plate (8) is To form a gusset of desired dimension out of the ribbon 25 advantageously mounted, as above mentioned, mova- (3), the latter is pulled out and made to advance (ac- ble on one arm (80) which develops laterally and parallel cording to the direction of arrow F), until its front edge to the plane (P) for the advancement of the ribbon (30) goes through a corresponding extent beyond the sight and the formation of the gussets (66), the same arm be- represented by the action line (t-t) of the blade (40) of ing angularly mounted for oscillation on the axis (81 ) or- cutter (4), to then activate the latter and cut the ribbon 30 thogonal to the direction (F) of the ribbon (30) to be cut, (30) at the height of said line. The handling of the blade the latter being located below the fixed suction plate (7). (40) is obtained by a respective actuator (41 ) having axis The angular oscillation of the arm (80), which supports parallel to the ribbon (30)-cutting direction (t-t). The also the gripper (5) (with the relevant support 51 and the blade (40), associated to the actuator (41 ), rolls relative actuator 50), the cutter unit (4) and the optical sensors to a counterblade (42). The rolling of the blade (40) is 35 (6), is operated by an actuator (82) to which a cantilev- caused by the interaction of a pinion (43), solid to the ered appendix (800) of the arm (80) is associated. The cutter's fixed structure (44), with a pair of gear wheels upward rotation of the arm (80) is intended for moving (45) the first of which meshes with the toothing of the the suction plate (8) out of contact with the underlying pinion (43), while the other meshes with the first gear plates (7, 9) when the ribbon (30) is to be fed for cutting and is keyed on the axis of rotation of the balde (40). 40 it as desired. Mounted above said plane (P), between Provided upstream of the cutter (4) is a gripper (5) be- the gripper (5) and the cutter (4), is a scraper (55) whose tween the jaws of which the ribbon (30) to be cut is function is to prevent any waviness in the ribbon (30) passed. Said gripper (5) is mounted on the base (1 ) and sliding therebelow. The scraper (55) being supported by is able to translate to and from the cutter (4). To this end, the said arm (80). the gripper (5) is associated to a carriage (51) which 45 [0014] To insert the gussets (66) into the crotch region slides under control of an actuator along a straight guide of the pantyhose article, that is, to transfer the gussets (53) extending parallel to the feeding direction (F) of the (66) to the shapes (2) from the exit section (U) - the latter ribbon (30) which moves onto the plane (P) of the base being located in correspondence of the front side (10) structure (1). The activation of the gripper (5), in the di- of the structure (1 ) and being delimited by a horizontal rection of opening and closing of the respective jaws, is so slit (1 1 ) of said side (1 0) - a lamina (1 2) is used. The said achieved by an actuator (50) whose skirt is pivoted to lamina (12) is mounted on a platform (13) disposed be- said carriage (51 ) and whose rod is pivoted to the upper low said plane (P) of the structure (1) and is fixed to a jaw (52) of gripper (5), the said jaw (52) being in turn frame (1 4) sliding onto the platform (1 3) from and to the engaged to the carriage (51) by means of a hinge (54) said slit (11) of the structure (1). The dimensions and having its axis orthogonal to the feeding direction (F) of 55 shape of the lamina (12) are such as to allow it to be the ribbon (30) moving onto the plane (P). An optical introduced through the slit (11) and through a slit (91) of barrier (6) is provided at an intermediate position be- the rotary suction plate (9), the said slits (11) and (91) tween the cutter (4) and the gripper (5) to detect any being in alignment when the plate (9) is disposed in ver-

3 5 EP 0 960 969 A2 6 tical position. The frame (14) is associated to an actuator the arm (80) is lowered, as illustrated in Fig. 1 , the suc- (15) which allows for the advancement thereof along tion is activated in the lower plates (7) and (9), and the with the lamina (12) during the insertion of the gussets blade (40) of cutter (4) is operated to cut the thus posi- (66) and their subsequent return to a standby or rest po- tioned and retained ribbon (30) to form the desired sition. The movement of the frame (14) is assisted by a 5 rhomboid gusset out of it. Afterwards, with the suction set of guide wheels (16) fixed to the platform (13) and being maintained in the plates (7) and (9), that is, with provided both inwardly and ouwardly of the structure (1). the gusset retained by the plate (9), and the head of the To reduce the overall dimensions of the apparatus, the ribbon (30) retained by the plate (7), the arm (80) is ro- platform (1 3) is mounted for angular oscillation on a hor- tated upwards along with the plate (8) and, after a down- izontal axis (17), that is, orthogonal to the axis of trans- 10 ward rotation of the platform (1 3), the plate (9) is rotated lation of the lamina (12), under control of a cylinder (18) downwards as in Fig. 4 (in which the apparatus is shown whose rod is connected to the lower side of the platform with the plate 9 being fully rotated, the platform 1 3 being (13). The platform (13) is rotated downwards to clear the already brought back in horizontal position and the plate area of transit of plate (9) when the latter is rotated 8 is in the process of withdrawing the head of the ribbon downwards to be disposed with the respective slit (91) is 30), that is, with its respective slit (91 ) in alignment with in correspondence of the slit (1 1 ) for the exit of gussets the slit (11) present on the front side (10) of the structure (66). Alternatively, the platform (13) is fixed. In this case, (1 ). With this arranngement of the apparatus, the gusset it is located in a position more retracted than the one (which results astride the slit 91) is ready to be trans- represented in the figures of the attached drawings. The ferred to the crotch region of the pantyhose article fitted whole structure (1 ) may be mounted on a straight guide 20 onto the shapes (2). This transfer is operated, with the (1 00) to be disposed either in an advanced work position platform (13) being in horizontal arrangement, by the (as in Fig. 1 ) or in a retracted rest position (as when the lamina (12) whose withdrawal is operated by the actu- gussets must not be applied on the pantyhose articles). ator (15). The application of the gusset (66), which The structure (1) is driven into motion, in this case, by presents itself to the shapes (2) folded over the lamina an actuator (101) having horizontal axis. Provided ex- 25 (1 2) so as to have an upper edge (660) and a lower edge ternally to the structure (1), in correspondence of the (661) both substantially of triangular shape with their section (U) for the exit of the gussets (66), are means base the shapes (2), takes place in a way known to assist the very application of the latter. The said to those skilled in the art. While the gusset (66) is applied means, which are well known to those skilled in the art, to the pantyhose, a new gusset is formed by the with- comprise: a set of nozzles (32) which serve to dispose 30 drawal and the movement of the ribbon (30), as previ- the lower edge of the gussets (66) out of the sewing ar- ously indicated, with a consequent, remarkable reduc- ea, the sewing of the gussets concerning first the upper tion in the time of the whole cycle. (660) and then the lower (661) edge; elastic reeds (33) [0016] It will be appreciated that, in the procedure movable from and to the shapes (2); pressers (34) for above exemplified, the suction in the plates (7) and (9) retaining the dges of the stockings fitted over the shapes 35 is activated alternately, so that, when the suction in the (2) in a condition suitable for receiving the gussets (66); plate (7) is activated, the one in the plate (8) is deacti- pressers (35) for retaining the upper edge (660) of the vated, and vice versa. gussets (66) on the insertion lamina (12) while the noz- [0017] According to the invention, provision is made zles blow air onto the lower edge (661 ) of the same gus- advantageously that the holes of the suction plates (8) sets. 40 and (9) be coaxial when the same plates are in horizon- The process implemented according to the invention is tal matching arrangement, with the gusset being cut in- as follows. terposed therebetween, to avoid the so-called "sucker [0015] To form the gussets (66), the ribbon (30) is en- effect" between the two thus disposed plates. gaged and moved toward the cutter (4) in order to have [0018] Moreover, advantageously, the travel of the the free edge of the same ribbon disposed at a prede- 45 plate (8) and of gripper (5) may be broken up into more termined distance from the line of action (t) of the blade stages to offer the possibility of forming gussets of what- (40) (see Figs. 4 and 5). To achieve this result, the most ever suitable dimension. forward portion of the ribbon (30) is engaged by the up- per suction plate (8), in which the suction is actually ac- tivated, and moved toward the cutter (4) as far as to pass 50 Claims (as shown in Fig. 4) the said line (t-t). In the meantime, the gripper (5) engages the ribbon (30) on the side op- 1 . Apparatus for the formation of gussets to be applied posite to that of the plate (8). Subsequently, this plate is in the crotch region of pantyhose articles upon the made to advance, along with the gripper (5), by a length assembly thereof on a machine having a plurality of which is preset according to the dimensions of the gus- 55 shapes (2) over which the stockings to be assem- set to be formed, as illustrated in Fig. 5. During this bled to form pantyhose articles are fitted in pairs, stage, the arm (80) which supports the unit (5), (4) and the gussets being formed out of a ribbon (30), com- (8) is in raised condition, that is, rotated upwards. Then, ing from a relevant input section (I), by means of a

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cutter (4) located downstream of said section (I), of moving the thus formed gussets from the cutting characterized in that it comprises a first plane (7) station to a station in which the individual gussets upstream of the cutting unit (4), a second and a third result in a position suitable for the transfer thereof planes (8,9) each of which is apt to engage a cor- up to the crotch region of the pantyhose article in responding side of the ribbon (30), said second 5 the process of formation, characterized in that upon plane (8) being movable from and to the ribbon (30)- the phase for cutting the ribbon (30) this is inter- introducing section (I) and said third plane (9), lo- posed between two planes (8, 9) in face-to-face re- cated downstreaam of the cutting unit (4), being lationship, that upon the phase for positioning the movable between a position in which it results in gussets (66) in an arrangement suitable for the face-to-face relationship with the second plane (8) 10 transfer thereof to the crotch region of the panty- and a position in which it engages the individual hose articles, the gussets (66) are retained onto the gussets (66) already formed, in an arrangement susrface of only one of said two planes (8, 9) and suitable for the transfer thereof to the crotch region that upon the phase for the withdrawal of the ribbon of the pantyhose article. (30) to be cut, the portion with the free end of the is same ribbon is engaged by the other of said two 2. Apparatus according to claim 1, characterized in planes (8, 9). that the said planes (7, 8, 9) consist of suction plates. 9. Method according to claim 8, characterized in that the said planes (8, 9) engage either the ribbon (30) 3. Apparatus according to claim 1, characterized in 20 or the gussets (66) by suction. that the said first plane (7) is horizontal, fixed and located below the ribbon (30).

4. Apparatus according to claim 1, characterized in that the second plane (8) is on a side opposite to 25 the first plane (7) with respect to the ribbon (30).

5. Apparatus according to claim 1, characterized in that the said third plane (9) is mounted on a hori- zontal shaft (90) so as to result angularly oscillating 30 between said two positions which correspond, re- spectively, to a position of horizontal arrangement and a position of vertical arrangement.

6. Apparatus according to one or more preceding 35 claims, characterized in that the said third plane (9) has a slit (91) through which a lamina (12) is able to pass, which lamina picks up, under control, the gussets (66) from the plane (9) to drive them along up to the crotch region of the pantyhose article in 40 the process of formation.

7. Apparatus according to one or more preceding claims, characterized in that the said second plane (8) is mounted on an oscillating support (80). 45

8. Method for the formation of gussets to be applied in the crotch region of pantyhose articles upon the as- sembly thereof on a machine having a plurality of shapes (2) over which the stockings to be assem- 50 bled to form pantyhose articles are fitted in pairs, the gussets being formed out of a ribbon (30), com- ing from a relevant input section (I), by means of a cutting unit (4) located downstream of said section (I), comprising the phases of withdrawing and en- 55 gaging a portion of the ribbon (30) to dispose said portion in a manner suitable for the cutting thereof in correspondence of said unit (4), and the phase

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