Citi Prestige®

The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES luxecityguides.com

HOW DOES THE SONG GO? The City of Light shines like a romantic The iconic River Seine bisects the city “I LOVE PARIS IN THE beacon year round with the finest of with the urbane ‘Right Bank’ or Rive SPRINGTIME…” cuisine, fashion, lifestyle and culture, Droite being north, and the chic, artistic WELL, WHO DOESN’T? and yet this ancient, fascinating and ‘Left Bank’ or being south. AND FOR THAT MATTER, beautiful city is extremely walkable and Bienvenue à Paris! SUMMER, FALL, AND easily navigable with its 20 districts, or WINTER ARE PRETTY arrondissements, spiraling out like an DARN GOOD TOO. escargot from the central 1st.

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Blah blah

• Excepting Fashion Week, there is • The handy Vélib bike scheme has • Coffee: café is espresso, allongé is no bad time to visit Paris, but bear in stations every 300m – €1,70/day, long espresso and café crème mind that during peak spring season €8/week via credit card + PIN (not café au lait) is coffee with milk the city is swamped and in August the velib.paris.fr entire population goes on holiday, or so it seems • The international country code is +33,

• Un peu de politesse, mes chers, always all local calls begin with 01 and cell bid hello and goodbye when entering phones with 06. To call emergency • CDG Airport to town: around 45 mins / shops, bars and restaurants from a cell phone dial 112 €50-70 by cab; 30 mins / €9,75 by RER train; or 45-60 mins / €10 by Roissybus

• Shops, services and restaurants generally close on Sunday, so use this • Even locals carry the fab little red day for museums and activities Plan de Paris métro n’ maps all-in-one. Pick it up at any news kiosk

• Service is always included, but leave a small tip by rounding up to the nearest • Cabs are fine for short hops but the euro or two métro is excellent for longer journeys, buy a one-week ‘carte orange’ pass, or a ‘carnet’ of ten tickets

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LUXE INSIDER

Lorenz Bäumer JEWELRY DESIGNER

Haute jewelry designer Lorenz is famed for his spectacular one-off pieces utilizing rare and precious stones, which are often inspired by the natural world. Working for over 20 years from his beautiful salon and atelier in Paris’ Place Vendôme, Lorenz has created not only covetable custom work and signature collections, but also designed exclusive collections for Chanel, and since 2009 has been Artistic Director for Fine Jewelry at Louis Vuitton.

lorenzbaumer.com

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LUXE INSIDER Lorenz Bäumer

WHAT’S THE ONE THING WHERE DO YOU GO FOR A WHAT ARE YOUR THREE EVERY VISITOR TO PARIS PAMPER SESSION, MASSAGE FAVORITE SHOPS IN PARIS MUST DO? OR SPA TREATMENT? AND WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT THEM? Definitely Place Vendôme. It is a For me there is only Catherine Leroy, wonderful place to go, a reference in who opened her spa at 6 rue de la My three favorite shops in Paris are luxury and especially jewelry. This is Trémoille in the 8th arrondissement. Urban Solutions for the best bikes in the my playground with the view that I have She does acupuncture and massage, city, (my favorite means of transportation from my salon – something I never get so I love to visit her at the end of a busy in Paris), Plume et Bille where I find the tired of. I also happen to own 150 historic week. I feel totally rejuvenated; a million special Namiki pens from Japan that I photographs dating back to 1853 of all years younger! love for writing notes, and La Maison du the special moments recorded on film Miel for the most incredible selection of from the magic square. Come and view academiecatherineleroy.com honeys – since discovering this boutique, the collection on your next trip! we don’t keep sugar at home anymore.

urbansolutions.fr WHAT ARE THREE OF YOUR plumeetbille.com FAVORITE RESTAURANTS maisondumiel.com WHAT DO YOU MOST LOVE IN PARIS AND WHAT DISHES ABOUT PARIS? DO YOU ORDER AT THESE Paris is the city of inspiration, museums, PLACES? amazing craftsmanship… a city that Alain Ducasse in all his special locations: pushes you beyond normal boundaries. from the Plaza Athénée to Rech to Aux I am very fond of the Musée des Arts Lyonnais. Kinugawa for Japanese food. Décoratifs where four of my creations Jean-Paul Hévin for his ‘tartelette au are on permanent display. There is always chocolat’, and Paparazzi for the best something special happening there that pizzas in town. I can use as inspiration for my next piece of jewelry. Reading is another one of my alain-ducasse.com passions and I love to discover new books kinugawa.fr at Galignani library on where jeanpaulhevin.com Bertrand Pizzin gives the best advice.

lesartsdecoratifs.fr galignani.com

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LUXE Loves

LE ROYAL MONCEAU THE PENINSULA RALPH’S Hotel Hotel Dining

This Raffles-run glory-bower has Grand dame retaining her original charms Fight for a summer terrace perch or been touched with the Starck stick, with all the right modern conveniences clubby salon table at Mr. Lauren’s and strikes firmly on the luxe gong in contempo, iPad-driven suites with dandy paean to American classic with a très contempo ring. Choose oversized walk-in wardrobes and soaking comfort cooking. It’s terribly BCBG, from Il Carpaccio, Le Cuisine and Le tubs with Oscar de le Renta amenities. but it’s terribly lovely whether at Bar Long and you’ll be well-fed, Swish street-side Kléber Terrace and Bar, lunch or supper. watered and left feeling awfully Cantonese Lili, the lovely L’Heure du Thé exclusive. Lobby and French rooftopper L’Oiseau 173 boulevard St Germain, 6th Blanc with ‘voilà!’ views stretching from +33 1 44 77 76 00 37 avenue Hoche, 8th Sacré Cœur to the . +33 1 42 99 88 00 ralphlaurenstgermain.com 19 avenue Kléber, 16th leroyalmonceau.com +33 1 5812 2888

paris.peninsula.com

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LUXE Loves

LE SEVERO SUR MESURE LE CHATEAUBRIAND Dining Dining Dining

Considered by many to be home of the Step into this white on white spaceship Gastro-vivants sell their kids for seats city’s best steak frites, this no-faff street- for a galactic molecular ride through all in Iñaki Aizpitarte’s vibrant, exciting, corner bistro is adored by locals and the latest techniques in two Mich-starred experimental bistro. If you like adventure visitors alike for its 5-10 week-aged, chef Thierry Marx’s prolific repertoire. and the unknown on your plate, then perfectly prepared beef, delicious Yes, there is faffy foam, but Marx’s book well ahead. tartare, chunky hand-cut fries, tasty devotion to healthy living is reflected in charcuterie starters, good bread and clean, sparkling flavors and imaginative 129 avenue Parmentier, 11th a selection of mostly biodynamic and pairings like bean sprout and truffle +33 1 43 57 45 95 / closed Sun-Mon organic boutique wines. C’est risotto. lechateaubriand.net magnifique! Mandarin Oriental 8 rue des Plantes, 14th 251 rue St-Honoré, 1st +33 1 45 40 40 91 / closed Sat-Sun +33 1 70 98 73 00 / closed Sun-Mon EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL mandarinoriental.com CLUB Bar

LES DEUX MAGOTS Tiny, sexy, young and funky, with Dining PAVILLON LEDOYEN plush, chandeliered vibe and tempting drinks list, the ECC is a laboratory of fine No St-Germain-des-Prés sojourn Dining would be complete without a swish by and rare spirits served with a little this beloved roadside café, home of Paris’ most storied, centuries-old dining tongue-in-chic, and a heck of a lot of flair. famously rich and indulgent, waistline- destination needed a top-to-toe revamp, 37 rue St-Sauveur, 2nd destroying hot chocolate. The pretty and it got one from triple Michelin- +33 1 48 08 88 09 / 6pm-late Mon-Sat mid-shop pitstop also affords fabulous starred, locavore-beloved chef Yannick people watching opportunities, so pop Alléno. experimentalcocktailclub.fr on your biggest Chanel shades and get 1 avenue Dutuit, 8th scoping! +33 1 5305 1000 / lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, 6 place St-Germain-des-Prés, 6th dinner only Sat, closed Sun +33 1 45 48 55 25 / daily yannick-alleno.com lesdeuxmagots.com

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LUXE Loves

LA MAISON GUERLAIN NISSIM DE CAMONDO SAINTE-CHAPELLE Spa Activities Activities

All that Champs-Élysées retail and A wander around this truly beautiful Is there a more celestial (and romantic) picture-snapping is likely to have left house, complete with its original church on the planet? The utterly you with a severe case of shopper’s collection of C.18th art, furniture and adorable C.13th upper chapel with its shoulder. Never fear: the glittery, antiques, offers a unique glimpse into ravishing stained glass is breathtakingly Putman-designed Guerlain flagship the past. A fascinating little time capsule. exquisite. Try to go on a sunny day to fully and its elegant spa can be found right appreciate the spellbinding scope of its in the thick of it. Plush, 1930s-style 63 rue de Monceau, 8th beauty. booths are where your salvation lies. +33 1 53 89 06 50 10am-5.30pm Wed-Sun 4 boulevard du Palais, 1st 68 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 8th +33 1 53 40 60 80 / closed daily 1-2pm, +33 1 45 62 11 21 lesartsdecoratifs.fr 9.30am-6pm Mar-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Feb

guerlain.com sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr

MURIEL GRATEAU Shopping MERCI Shopping Divine, dramatic but simple porcelain tableware, plus a rainbow Shop with a clear conscience at this of fine linens and staggeringly chic delightful concept store featuring a jewelry. Muriel’s eye is always flawless vintage book café, home furniture and her monochrome store a magnet and fragrance, plus new/vintage togs for the city’s most stylish denizens. for kids and grownups with profits going to charity. 37 rue de Beaune, 7th +33 1 40 20 42 82 111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd +33 1 42 77 00 33 / 10am-7pm Mon-Sat murielgrateau.com

merci-merci.com

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LUXE Loathes

TAXIS SUNDAY PRICES

You’ve got more chance of hailing a Shops, services and a good many €35 for a martini in hotel bars? pelican in Paris. If you are lucky enough restaurants are closed on Sunday – C’est du vol organisé! Be prepared to get one, your next realization will be quel insanity is this? to hemorrhage cash that friendly cab drivers are as rare as friendly waiters

SERVICE

Any chance of getting my order before I expire? Probably not, especially if you’re not French

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Drab vs. Fab

MUSEUM PASS EIFFEL TOWER LUNCH

You will of course wish to visit the You could wait elbow-to-elbow with Paris hosts some of the world’s most and Musée d’Orsay but in spring, the rest of the tourists to climb Mr. rarefied dining experiences, but apart summer and fall the queues can be Eiffel’s latticed spire. But those in the from the eye-watering cost, the sheer atrocious, and tempers simmer easily. know choose a more glamorous ascent difficulty of reserving a table for dinner Book ahead to get the 2-, 4- or 6-day by way of fine diner Le Jules Verne’s can be infuriating. So, reeducate yourself Museum Pass delivered to your hotel private elevator, of course followed by to accept lunch as the main meal of and you’ll swan straight to the front of a champagne supper therein courtesy the day and you’ll take full advantage the queue (much to everyone’s of Monsieur Ducasse protégé Pascal of the city’s fantastic prix-fixe deals, annoyance). It also gains you entry to Féraud. Santé! from magnificent Le Meurice to tiny scores of other wonderful museums. Le Le Comptoir du Relais. Bon appetit! fab! lejulesverne-paris.com dorchestercollection.com museums-of-paris.com hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com

VAUX LE VICOMTE

CUISINE The Museum Pass will help you to avoid the queues at the Château de Versailles, In a city of such fine food it’s tempting but it really can’t protect you from the to simply wander from restaurant to abject swarms in spring and summer. If bistro without ever really knowing the two’s company but thirty thousand’s a components of the dishes and the origin crowd, why not consider the quieter and of the ingredients. Step forward Wendy glorious Vaux le Vicomte, the original Lyn, whose fabulous food tours illuminate inspiration for Versailles. In summer and charm in equal measure, and yes, you you can even dine within the candlelit get to eat just about everything you see grounds. Palatial peace! along the way! vaux-le-vicomte.com thepariskitchen.com

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LUXE ITINERARY Romance

What better way to start your day than you’ve earned a pamper, so off with corset for supper. Or, if you prefer to keep in lovely St-Germain-des-Prés with a you to the Six Senses Spa, and relax in your feet firmly on the ground, push on steaming cup of the signature, thick one of their delightful couple’s cocoons. instead to a magical dinner (booked well hot chocolate from Rejuvenated? You simply can’t come to in advance) at Pavillon Ledoyen (see (see LUXE Loves)? Follow with a gentle Paris and not shop for beautiful lingerie, LUXE Loves), followed by a moonlit walk amble alongside rue Jacob’s pretty and just a short cab ride away awaits the through the closeby Tuileries Gardens, antique and décor shops (pop into incomparable Fifi Chachnil, for undies then back to your suite at hotel Palais Ladurée for thigh-destroying macarons), with a built in knee-tremble! With your Royale. and be sure to stop off at one of Paris’ purchases safely wrapped, make haste best cultural secrets, the charming little to the heavenly Sainte-Chapelle (see Musée National Eugène Delacroix, for a LUXE Loves), and then onto the perfect window into the C.19th romantic artist’s afternoon tea at The Four Seasons Hotel atelier, home, and private garden. For a Georges V. Just time for a quick wash relaxed, but terribly good lunch without a and brush up at your hotel before dusk reservation be sure to arrive very early when you can call past Place du Trocadéro at Le Comptoir du Relais (see Drab vs. to watch the spectacular Eiffel Tower light Fab), or if you’re in the mood for the show (every hour on the hour), or better chicest cheeseburger in town try your yet head up to Le Jules Verne (see Drab luck at Ralph’s (see LUXE Loves). Well, vs. Fab) nestled high in the tower’s steel

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LUXE ITINERARY Style

Start your stylish sojourn with some of Régis offers bivalve bliss, and you can Chez l’Ami Jean for Basque at its best the finest croissants and baked goods in eat in or takeaway. What luck, you’re in a boisterous boîte of chandeliers, zinc the city from famed baker Eric Kayser terribly close to the beautiful Palais and graffiti – don’t miss the infamous – rather handily he has a shop in the Royale, and that means vintage shopping rice pudding with salted caramel cream Carré Rive Gauche at 18 rue du Bac, and perfume at the lovely shops of Didier and nougatine. Nightcaps? Mais oui. Two perfectly positioned for your post-pastry Ludot and Serge Lutens. An afternoon words: Andy Wahloo. Fin! stroll around the best interior décor and visit to the Musée Jacquemart-André antique shops in this treasure chest of is at once stylish and cultural, but just a neighborhood. Whatever you do, don’t as importantly you’ll find a rather good miss out on divine Muriel Grateau (see afternoon tea under the Tiepolo ceiling of LUXE Loves), and a visit to the splendid its grand café. For that all important pre- taxidermist extraordinaire Deyrolle, prandial, it’s difficult to beat the excellent quite simply one of our favorite shops libations at Experimental Cocktail Club anywhere. A quick coffee at Hotel (see LUXE Loves), before taking your seat Montalembert if you must, and then taxi at the ultra fashionable white-on-white to the joyous Musée des Arts Décoratifs Sur Mesure (see LUXE Loves) for Thierry for its design collections dating from the Marx’s molecular marvels. If something Middle Ages to now. Lunch! Huitrerie a little less formal is called for, head to

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LUXE ITINERARY Gourmet

Wendy Lyn (see Drab vs. Fab) is the Poilâne, and then follow your nose to his alchemical cocoa will send you loco. go-to gal for all things culinary in Paris 51 rue de Grenelle in the 7th, where Yes, you’ve died and gone to Hévin! To including food tours, cooking classes, it’s possible to detect the presence of finish your day, care for something a market visits and wine tastings, but it’s cheese wonderland Barthélémy even little under the radar for supper? Try the also worth seeking out the advice of as you turn into the street. You’ve excellent tasting menu at Verjus. Relaxed Aurélie and Marion at Succulent Paris now got the makings of a picnic, and and welcoming, this little restaurant is a who arrange all manner of culinary where better to enjoy it than the sylvan bit like attending a great supper party, or delights including food tastings in private surrounds of the nearby garden at the if you prefer it even less formal, they have apartments. Prefer to go it alone? No Musée Rodin. Chocolate is a subject a great wine bar with bites menu too. problem. During the week, one of the dear to most people’s heart and in Paris Lovely! very best places to start is always the you’re spoilt for choice, but you can’t delectable La Grande Épicerie with its go wrong with a visit to Alain Ducasse’s extraordinary seasonal, regional and choc atelier La Manufacture, the city’s international produce. From the ultra- first artisanal bean-to-bar maker with luxe food hall specializing in everything, all manner of delights – try the pistachio it’s an easy step to the tiny independent praline. We adore this store! Or, if you stores specializing in only one thing. prefer to sit down for your chocolate On you go to nearby 8 rue du Cherche- fix, try the wicked upstairs tearoom at Midi in the 6th for the famed bread of artisanal chocolatier Jean-Paul Hévin,

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LUXE ITINERARY The Essentials

ROMANCE STYLE

• Les Deux Magots • Le Jules Verne • Eric Kayser (see LUXE Loves) (see Drab vs. Fab) 18 rue du Bac, 7th +33 1 42 61 27 63 / closed Mon • Pavillon Ledoyen • Ladurée erickayser.com 21 rue Bonaparte, 6th (see LUXE Loves) +33 1 44 07 64 87 • Muriel Grateau • Palais Royale laduree.fr (see LUXE Loves) 4 rue de Valois, 1st • Musée National Eugène Delacroix +33 1 42 96 15 35 • Deyrolle 6 rue de Furstenberg, 6th grandhoteldupalaisroyal.com 46 rue du Bac, 7th +33 1 44 41 86 50 / closed Tue +33 1 42 22 30 07 / closed Sun musee-delacroix.fr deyrolle.com

• Le Comptoir du Relais • Hotel Montalembert 9 carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th 3 rue Montalembert, 7th +33 1 44 27 07 97 +33 1 45 49 68 01 hotel-montalembert.fr • Ralph’s (see LUXE Loves) • Musée des Arts Décoratifs 107 rue de Rivoli, 1st • Six Senses Spa +33 1 44 55 57 50 / closed Mon 3 rue de Castiglione, 1st lesartsdecoratifs.fr +33 1 43 16 10 10 thewestinparis.com • Huitrerie Régis 3 rue Montfaucon, 6th • Fifi Chachnil +33 1 44 41 10 07 231 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st huitrerieregis.com +33 1 42 61 21 83 / closed Sun fifichachnil.com • Didier Ludot 24 galerie de Montpensier, 1st • Sainte-Chapelle +33 1 42 96 06 56 / closed Sun (see LUXE Loves) didierludot.fr

• The Four Seasons Hotel Georges V • Serge Lutens 31 , 8th 142 galerie de Valois, 1st +33 1 49 52 70 00 +33 1 49 27 09 09 fourseasons.com sergelutens.com

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LUXE ITINERARY The Essentials

STYLE GOURMET

• Musée Jacquemart-André • Wendy Lyn • Musée Rodin 158 boulevard Haussmann, 8th (see Drab vs. Fab) 79 rue de Varenne, 7th +33 1 45 62 11 59 +33 1 44 18 61 10 / closed Mon musee-jacquemart-andre.com • Succulent Paris musee-rodin.fr 33 rue de Tocqueville, 17th • Experimental Cocktail Club +33 6 63 39 84 63 • La Manufacture (see LUXE Loves) succulent-paris.com 40 rue de la Roquette, 11th +33 1 48 05 82 86 • Sur Mesure • La Grande Épicerie lechocolat-alainducasse.com (see LUXE Loves) 38 rue de Sèvres, 6th +33 1 44 39 80 00 • Jean-Paul Hévin • Chez l’Ami Jean lagrandeepicerie.com 231 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st 27 rue Malar, 7th +33 1 55 35 35 96 / noon-6pm daily +33 1 47 05 86 89 / closed Sun-Mon • Poilâne jeanpaulhevin.com lamijean.fr 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th +33 1 45 48 42 59 / closed Sun • Verjus • Andy Wahloo poilane.com 52 rue de Richelieu, 1st 69 rue des Gravilliers, 3rd +33 1 42 97 54 40 / dinner Mon-Fri +33 1 42 71 20 38 / closed Sun-Mon • Barthélémy verjusparis.com andywahloo-bar.com 51 rue de Grenelle, 7th +33 1 42 22 82 24 / closed Sun-Mon

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Your LUXE notes

2014.08.01

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