JULY 2013 | OUR 35TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING T HE WORLD IN SEARCH OF T RULY ENCHANT ING PLACES

This Issue 1 The Italian Lakes 3 Historic Verona SUPREMELY CIVILIZED RETREATS 4 Restaurant Finds 5 Wales Journey 6 Dinner in Ludlow 8 New Travel Service A Return Visit to the

The Hideaway Report digital edition features Ravishing Italian Lakes more than 75 pages of reviews, trip photography THE ET HEREAL SCENERY AND CALM INDIGO WAT ER OF ITALY’S ALPINE LAKES — and videos. It is available Maggiore, Como and Garda — have had an irresistible appeal since Roman times, when free to subscribers on Apple’s Newsstand and aristocrats and artists began summering on their shores. Author and lawmaker Pliny the at AndrewHarper.com. Younger wrote ecstatically of his view of Como, while the poet Catullus lived in his family’s villa at Sirmione on Lake Garda. Eighteen hundred years later, the British Romantic poets, IN THE NEWS chiefly Byron and Shelley, put the lakes on the map as a mandatory part of the Grand Tour. London (Shelley wrote of Como, “This lake exceeds anything I ever beheld in beauty … and has the Shangri-La appearance of a mighty river winding among the mountains and the forests.”) Although my long- established preference is Each generation falls in love all over again: doesn’t seem to trouble its increasingly Russian for hideaway hotels, Ernest Hemingway was besotted with Lake Maggiore; clientele — so it was in the hopes of finding a I am not entirely immune today, George Clooney has a villa in Laglio on Lake charming and comfortable place with good service to the allure of glitz and Como, keeping the region’s glamour current. Every and more sensible rates that we arrived at the 18- glamour. That is why the time I visit the lakes, I conclude that few places are room VILLA ARCADIO. prospect of staying at the new 202-room Shangri-La more beautiful or more profoundly civilized. It is Occupying a stone convent, much of which Hotel, at The Shard, in a recurring and undiminished pleasure to visit the dates to the 14th century, the hotel is surrounded London has such appeal. exquisite gardens and villas; to sail aboard the ferries by 27 acres of orchards Located between Floors that enable an easygoing, car-free day; and, each and olive groves, and 34 and 52 in Renzo Piano’s Hemingway remarkable new 1,016-foot evening, to settle into one of the area’s superb hotels. was besotted with is perched on a hillside glass spire, rooms will look that affords panoramic “Lake Maggiore; down on the Tower of he lakes provide a perfect time-out during a today, George views of the lake. It London and The City finan- Ttour of Italy — being less than an hour from Clooney has a villa was originally bought cial district. The property Milan and about three hours from Venice — but by an Italian-Finnish is scheduled to debut on Lake Como, in September. I am very I regard them as a destination in their own right. keeping the region’s couple, who h a d much looking forward to On a recent trip, we picked up a car at the Verona glamour current. intended to make it taking a dip in the infinity airport and drove for 50 miles through countryside their holiday home, pool and gazing across to pink and white with blossom to Salò, a resort town but soon decided to convert it into a hotel instead. Buckingham Palace. But, alas, I suspect that tables on the western shore of Lake Garda. Although the The property opened two years ago, and today, in GONG, the panoramic nearby Grand Hotel à Villa Feltrinelli in Gargnano it is a place of tremendous charm, with exposed bar on Floor 52, may be has long been one of my favorite Italian hotels, it stone walls, whitewashed beams, beige stone rather hard to come by. has become extremely expensive — something that floors, wheat-colored linen upholstery and a

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. stylish mix of traditional and contemporary art he following day, we headed west to Lake SHOPPING and furniture. Our air-conditioned lakeview Junior T Como, a 100-mile, two-hour drive. My hope Suite came with an extremely comfortable bed, Como Finds was that our next stop, the 97-room G R A N D fine linens and a smallish modern bath, stocked HOTEL TREMEZZO, would be just as delightful, Abbazia di Piona — with Erbario Toscano olive-oil toiletries. Overall, 1 Tucked away in an 11th- and might also provide an alternative to the eye- the suite’s simple design scheme and neutral century monastery, this watering prices of Como’s famous Villa d’Este. The colors served to emphasize original features charming shop sells goods 1910-vintage Tremezzo is built on a steep lakeside such as massive beams, terra-cotta floors and made by the monks, includ- plot, so on our arrival, a brigade of porters ushered ing excellent limoncello and 600-year-old frescoes. mandarin orange liqueur, us to the elevator that takes guests up three floors The hotel’s excellent (and reasonably priced) perfume, and toiletries such to reception. Service at the front desk was charming restaurant comprises two elegant rooms with as skin creams and bees- vaulted ceilings and marble fireplaces, which extend wax soap. ABBAZIADIPIONA.IT onto a sublime terrace where wrought-iron tables Vanini Osvaldo — You’ll spot Vanini olive are tucked amid vine arbors. I particularly enjoyed 2 oil at many of the best the house-made ravioli stuffed with Bagoss cheese, restaurants in and around made from the skimmed milk of the cows that Lake Como, since it is graze the alpine pastures around nearby Bagolino. prized for its delicate arti- Lake fish such as pike are frequently to be found choke-and-almonds taste. The Vaninis have been on the menu, and the wine list features local wines producing oil since 1850 that include enjoyable light reds such as Groppello and won a gold medal at the and Bardolino. Cooking classes are available on turn-of-the-century Paris request. Amenities include a fitness area with a Exposition. Demand has since invariably outstripped Finnish sauna, plus a menu of massage and yoga. Rooftop Suite bedroom, Grand Hotel Tremezzo supply. OLIOVANINI.IT The hotel has a classic mahogany Riva Aquarama and efficient despite the recent arrival of a wedding Orefice — Run by the Special speedboat for picnics and full- or half-day 3 same family since party, and we were promptly escorted to the new, trips. (Lake Garda is 32 miles long, so it presents 1856, this haberdashery fifth-floor all-suite “hotel within a hotel.” many opportunities for exploration. However, it is in Cernobbio carries a Unlike the opulent period décor elsewhere, the most popular of the Italian lakes with domestic superb selection of the these Rooftop Suites display a refined contemporary finest Italian fabrics and tourists, so is best visited in the shoulder seasons design by architect Venelli Kramer, featuring dark- has madeAUS suits forTRIA every- of May-June and September-October. The south one from Clark Gable to stained pine floors, putty-colored walls, and a clever of the lake becomes particularly crowded with European crowned heads. mix of modern and traditional furnishings. Our suite pleasure boaters from Brescia.) SARTORIAOREFICE.COM comprised a sitting room with sofa and armchair, and a white marble-topped table. A library wall unit SWITZERLAND in walnut veneer housed a flat-screen television MILAN VENICE and a Loewe sound system — I never figured out

FLORENCE how to work the latter, despite the assistance of

TREMEZZO ROME two hotel technicians who were similarly baffled LAKE by its complexity — plus a selection of sumptuous MAGGIORE 2 LAKE art books. Two heavy pocket doors closed off the COMO ITALY 4 3 bedroom. The bath was rather small, but was well- STRESA 7 BELLAGIO designed, faced in cocoa-colored travertine and fitted COMO LAGLIO 6 LAKE with a whirlpool tub and a stall shower. The best SALO GARDA feature of our suite, however, was a huge private 1 terrace with a Jacuzzi, two sun loungers and a table FRANCE MILAN 5 VERONA and chairs. It had a spectacular view over the lake HOTELS REVIEWED – RATING and was completely private, thanks to a screen of 0 30 60 MI 1 Villa Arcadio – A90 bamboo and a thick frosted-glass wall. 2 Grand Hotel Tremezzo – A95 0 30 60 KM The hotel’s grand and vibrantly colored public 3 Relais Villa Vittoria – A92 areas included a handsome billiards room, a huge 4 Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees – 87 Harper Italian Lakes Classics lounge and an excellent bar with a cocktail list that 5 Due Torri Hotel – 88 6 Grand Hotel à Villa Feltrinelli – A98 Palazzo Victoria – 86 7 Villa d’Este – A98 included notable grappas. The main La Terrazza Restaurant offers sublime views of the lake and the

2 hideaway report | July 2013 town of Bellagio directly opposite, but we found the a white cotton-upholstered couch. The bath was SIGHTSEEING menu to be overcomplicated and head-spinningly equipped with a serviceable tub-shower combination, expensive. (It is overseen by 83-year-old Gualtiero a reminder that this otherwise very agreeable hotel Gardens Marchesi, widely considered to be the founder of is a four- rather than a five-star property. Among the many villas modern Italian cuisine, but a chef whose culinary Facilities include a diminutive spa with a Jacuzzi with magnificent gardens influence is on the wane.) Oddly, the hotel’s casual and Turkish bath, a small lakeside infinity pool, a around Lake Como, two restaurant is a fondue-and-raclette wine tavern, spacious lounge with a grand piano, and an intimate are not to be missed. The Villa Carlotta was which would be fine for a single meal in winter, restaurant serving dishes such as leek and Parmesan built in the 18th century but is of limited appeal during the summer season. risotto, lake perch stuffed with vegetables and bacon, and was later acquired Other facilities included three swimming pools, a and escalope of pork cooked with Marsala and served by Princess Marianne floodlit clay tennis court and a well-equipped fitness with butter-glazed apples and a mustard sauce. The of the Netherlands, who room. An impressive spa offers treatments by ESPA service proved attentive and exceptionally charming gave it to her daughter Charlotte as a wedding and has a spectacular 50-foot indoor infinity pool throughout our stay. Given the vertiginous prices at present. The 14 acres that appears to merge with the waters of the lake. most luxury hotels on Lake Como, the Relais Villa of gardens are notable Adjustable water jets enable powerful swimmers Vittoria’s rooms represent exceptional value for the for their camellias and to forge against a current. And there are also five money at about ¤350 ($460) a night. azaleas. The beautiful Villa del Balbianello kinds of Jacuzzi, including one on the lakefront near Lenno dates from specifically for hydromassage. Golf is available at rom Laglio, it was a pleasant 90-minute drive 1787 and is surrounded by the well-regarded Menaggio & Cadenabbia Golf F along back roads to Stresa, on the western gardens lush with wisteria, Club just three miles away. Water skiing, sailing and shore of Lake Maggiore. Blessed with the same laurel and rhododendrons. windsurfing on the lake can readily be arranged. Verona: Charm and Cultural Riches fter a morning visit to the enchanting gardens of the 17th-century Villa Carlotta next door A GRACIOUS AND ATMOSPHERIC CITY IN A BEND OF THE ADIGE RIVER, VERONA A is famously the hometown of the world’s most celebrated pair of star-crossed lovers. — famous for its azaleas, camellias and rhododen- But it also o!ers superb museums — the Castelvecchio has a magnificent collection drons, as well as for massive century-old cedars and of Renaissance paintings — and splendid Roman ruins, notably the arena where the sequoias — we retrieved our car and left the Grand renowned opera is held each summer. Verona also demonstrates why Italy is such an Hotel Tremezzo with real regret. Heading south inexhaustibly rewarding destination, since, more than in any other European country, its smaller cities are unfailingly beautiful. down the western shore of the lake, we stopped Most prosperous Italian provincial cities have a distinguished if slightly dysfunctional for lunch at a favorite local restaurant, the idyllic old hotel such as the Due Torri Hotel. Verona’s leading property plays the part with a Crotto dei Platani in Brienno, and feasted on lavaret Napoleonic-style décor and Murano chandeliers. Our junior suite came with a sleigh bed, (whitefish) served with black truffles from the damask wallcovers, heavy curtains, a Directoire love seat and an enormous mirror. The Umbrian hill town of Norcia. (There are four blissful bed was made up with crisply pressed linen sheets, but the bath was rather basic, with a wall-mounted shower in the tub, and drab commercial toiletries. Since the sta! is pleasant dining venues, our favorite being the Terrace, where and the hotel is well-located, this is the address I’d recommend in Verona, especially since 20 tables surrounded by hedges of fragrant white we were not especially charmed by the Palazzo Victoria, a sister hotel to Il Salviatino jasmine directly overlook Como’s glassy surface.) We in Florence — the 2011 Hideaway of the Year — but with very little of its elegance and arrived at the 12-room RELAIS VILLA VITTORIA in character. Instead, the service was perfunctory and the contemporary décor slightly odd. Verona is a wonderful food town. During the warm months, book a terrace table for Laglio by late afternoon. An intimate peach-colored dinner at the Osteria Ponte Pietra (ristorantepontepietra.com) for fine views of the river. mansion, it was constructed in the 18th century by a Recently, we dined exceptionally well on ravioli stu!ed with Treviso (tight-headed radic- wealthy family from Milan. Truth be told, after our chio) and cheese, and grilled steak with rosemary. Otherwise, Al Bersagliere (trattoria stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, we feared we might albersagliere.it) is a terrific old-fashioned trattoria that serves hearty local dishes such as maccheroncini del Bersagliere — macaroni with beans and sausage in a light tomato be underwhelmed by this much simpler property. sauce — and baccalà (salt cod) in caper sauce with grilled polenta. Servers are cordial, and Instead, we fell in love on arrival. A friendly young there’s a superb list of Northern Italian wines. Finally, give Il Desco a miss. Despite having woman brought us to our air-conditioned lakeview been inexplicably awarded two stars by the notoriously unreliable Italian Michelin Guide, it junior suite, a spacious two-room aerie with pine is stu!y, and the cooking is dull and expensive. H

floors, washed stucco walls, a beamed ceiling and DUE TORRI HOTEL — LIKE Old-fashioned Old World glamour; strong feeling of involvement comfortable contemporary furniture. A small Juliet with the city’s history; wonderful linen sheets. DISLIKE Small, dated baths; inattentive porters. GOOD TO KNOW Request a room with a view in the original building. RATING 88 DELUXE KING balcony with a table and two metal chairs overlooked ROOM, $470; JUNIOR SUITE, $660. PIAZZA SANT’ANASTASIA 4, 37121 VERONA. TEL. (39) 045-595044. the lake and a pool in the gardens below. The well-lit HOTELDUETORRI.DUETORRIHOTELS.COM bedroom came with a very comfortable four-poster PALAZZO VICTORIA — LIKE Convenient central location; great bar; spacious public areas. DISLIKE Cool and anonymous service; small baths. GOOD TO KNOW The so-called “Junior bed dressed with fine Italian linens, while the Suites” really are junior. RATING 86 GRAND DELUXE ROOM, $340; JUNIOR SUITE, $525. VIA ADUA 8, separate salon was equally attractive and provided 37121 VERONA. TEL. (39) 045-590566. PALAZZOVICTORIA.COM

July 2013 | hideaway report 3 balmy microclimate as Garda and Como, Maggiore is distinguished by a more subdued and genteel Restaurant Recommendations atmosphere, a reflection of the fact that the Northern Italian aristocracy and industrialists from Turin and LOCAL SPECIALTIES IN THE LAKES FEATURE A VARIETY OF FRESHWATER FISH, including perch (persico), tench (tinca), shad (missoltini) and lavaret (a species of white- Milan have been building extravagant villas along fish). The local polenta is renowned, as is the tangy Bagoss cow’s milk cheese from the its shores for centuries. Our destination was the 172- region around Brescia. Here is a selection of my favorite eating places, plus one to miss: GRAND HOTEL DES ILES BORROMEES room , CROTTO DEI PLATANI — This delightful lakeside establishment is an ideal choice on a property that was once a great favorite of Ernest a warm summer evening when you want an outdoor setting and contemporary Italian Hemingway and that features in “A Farewell to cooking. The menu changes seasonally, but dishes such as delicate ravioli stu!ed with Arms.” (The writer’s preferred room, now known perch, and rack of lamb with a pistachio crumb crust illustrate the kitchen’s undoubted as the Suite Hemingway, can be yours for a mere talent. VIA REGINA 73, BRIENNO. TEL. (39) 031-814-038. CROTTODEIPLATANI.IT ¤3,300 a night!) RISTORANTE AL CAMINO — Perched on a hillside with fine views over Lake Maggiore, This opulent grande dame, set in exquisitely this rustic osteria has conspicuously charming and friendly service. Try local dishes such as lamb prosciutto, and white polenta with Gorgonzola. Finish up with a warm slice of red- manicured grounds, is celebrating its 150th fruit crostatta, the open-face jam tart made by all Italian grandmothers. VIA PER COMNAGO anniversary this year, and is one of the increasingly 30, LESA. TEL. (39) 0322-7471. ALCAMINOLESA.COM

few places where you can still experience the spirit CASABELLA — This delightful restaurant on the Isola dei Pescatori, one of the Borromean of patrician 19th-century European travel. As the Islands, o!ers a wonderful night out on Lake Maggiore from Stresa. Standout dishes small exhibit next to the card room on the ground include prosciutto with candied porcini mushrooms, grilled octopus with burrata cream, floor indicates, this was once a place where the rich and ravioli stu!ed with rabbit and black olives. There is a complimentary boat service from Stresa. VIA DEL MARINAIO 1. TEL. (39) 0323-33471. ISOLA-PESCATORI.IT and titled came to stay for weeks at a time, rather than just a night or two. However, the grandeur of TERRAZZA BARCHETTA — With a charming terrace on one of the side streets leading up from the port, this is one of the best and most reasonably priced tables in busy Bellagio. a hotel’s décor does not alone suffice. A hotel that Owner Armando Valli is a charming and hospitable host. The menu changes often, but struts its pedigree and famous guests as proudly as a variety of lake fish is on o!er. Alternatively, try the delicious risotto with sausage, this one does must also have gracious and attentive red wine, sage and Parmesan shavings. SALITA MELLA 13, BELLAGIO. TEL. (39) 031-951-389. service and an abundance of Old World charm. Alas, RISTORANTEBARCHETTA.COM this was not always the case during our stay. The OSTERIA DELL’OROLOGIO — This delightful osteria is an ornament of the stylish sailing staff tended to be polite town of Salò on Lake Garda. The fine home cooking is exemplified by dishes such as beef carpaccio with rucola and shavings of Parmesan, and pasta in a sauce of Bagoss cheese. but somewhat distant This opulent The fine cellar contains selections from the length of Italy, but emphasizes local wines grande dame is one and impersonal. such as Valtenesi, Lugana and Franciacorta. VIA BUTTURINI 26, SALO. TEL. (39) 0365-290-158. Upstairs, our junior OSTERIADELLOROLOGIO.IT “of the few places where you can still suite featured a lavish IL GATTO NERO — This fashionable spot in Cernobbio may be George Clooney’s favorite experience the spirit array of brocade, velvet local restaurant, but it is touristy and overpriced. of patrician 19th- and ormolu and came century travel. with a delightful small HOTELS AT A GLANCE

balcony from which to VILLA ARCADIO — LIKE Charming sta!; simple but very comfortable rooms; lovely location; enjoy a fine view of the Borromean Islands. The bath very good restaurant. DISLIKE The absence of a proper lobby and a spacious sitting room. GOOD TO KNOW This intimate hotel, popular with a"uent English and German couples, is a delightful was faced with multicolored marble and equipped and well-run country auberge, not a luxury hotel. RATING A90 DELUXE DOUBLE, $395. VIA with a whirlpool tub. Hotel facilities include two PALAZZINA 2, 25087, SALO. TEL. (39) 0365-42281. HOTELVILLAARCADIO.IT large outdoor swimming pools, a grass tennis court GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO — LIKE Exceptionally attentive and thoughtful sta!; beautiful views over the lake from very comfortable rooms; terrific bar with excellent list of grappas; and a spa with an indoor pool, sauna, massage and first-rate spa with indoor pool. DISLIKE The restaurants: It needs a really excellent trattoria. an elaborate menu of beauty treatments. The main GOOD TO KNOW Almost every ferry on Lake Como stops on one of the landings adjacent to the hotel, which means it’s easy to sightsee without a car. RATING A95 LAKE VIEW DELUXE Borromeo Restaurant offers standard Italian fare in ROOM, $780; ROOFTOP JUNIOR SUITE, $995. VIA REGINA 8, 22019 TREMEZZO. TEL. (39) 0344-42491. an opulent setting, but the menu provides little of GRANDHOTELTREMEZZO.COM conspicuous interest. Overall, the Grand Hotel des RELAIS VILLA VITTORIA — LIKE The intimacy and calm here make it genuinely but unself- consciously romantic; junior suites are exceptionally spacious. DISLIKE Breakfast bu!et is lack- Iles Borromees is well-maintained, and its historic luster; suites would be better with separate tubs and showers instead of combined units. GOOD TO KNOW The best nearby restaurant is the Crotto dei Platani. RATING A92 LAKE VIEW SUITE, atmosphere is undeniably seductive. It certainly $645. VIA REGINA 62, 22010 LAGLIO. TEL. (39) 031-400859. RELAISVILLAVITTORIA.IT provides an acceptable base for a night or two while GRAND HOTEL DES ILES BORROMEES — LIKE Magnificently landscaped park and gardens visiting the exquisite Borromean Islands. My hope, on Lake Maggiore; beautiful public rooms. DISLIKE Desultory service; charge for in-room Internet access. GOOD TO KNOW Private water taxis can be arranged from the hotel’s jetty to the however, is that someone will soon open a hotel on Borromean Islands; many restaurants, including the excellent Casabella on Isola dei Pescatori, Maggiore that is as delightful as those on Como and will send a boat to pick you up. RATING 87 LAKE VIEW DOUBLE, $630; JUNIOR SUITE DELUXE, $1,130. CORSO UMBERTO I 67, STRESA. TEL. (39) 0323-938938. BORROMEES.IT Garda, since this will give me a valid excuse to visit A denotes a Harper-recommended hotel; more information is available at AndrewHarper.com the Italian lakes yet again. H

4 hideaway report | July 2013 MOUNTAIN HIKES, NORMAN CASTLES, FINE CUISINE EXCURSIONS Wales: A Memorable Weeklong Journey A DRIVE OF LITTLE MORE THAN TWO HOURS TAKES YOU FROM THE SOFT, FERTILE LANDSCAPE of the English Cotswolds to the rugged Black Mountains of South Wales. There, limestone is replaced by granite, and fields of placid cows are superseded by flocks of hardy sheep, stoically grazing the steep and windswept hillsides. Although Wales and England have been car with a large golf umbrella and then ushered politically united since the middle of the 16th us indoors. Inside, we found a grandly furnished century, the two countries are still remarkably hallway running the length of the façade. At Llangoed different. The Welsh are a Celtic people — cousins Hall, strenuous attempts are made to sustain the A Land of of the Scots, Irish, Cornish and Bretons — who, fiction that this is still a private house, not a hotel. Castles largely because of the mountainous terrain, have The intention is to re-create the atmosphere of an successfully retained a separate identity. Around a Edwardian country estate, the kind of setting that Following the conquest of 1066, the Norman fifth of the population of just over 3 million is still will be entirely familiar to devotees of “Downton invaders were determined fluent in the ancient Welsh language. And even the Abbey.” The lavish public rooms with their baronial to consolidate their hold respective names of the country speak volumes: stone fireplaces, oil paintings and heavy floral on both the defeated The English word “Wales” is of Germanic origin Anglo-Saxons and the recalcitrant Welsh. Wales and means “foreigner;” whereas the Welsh “Cymru” has always presented a means “fellow countryman.” problem to those deter- mined to impose their will t the conclusion of a recent trip through on the Brititish Isles. The southwest England, we decided to extend our Normans were inclined A to take no chances, British journey with a weeklong tour of Wales. Our so they set to work on intention was to work off some calories by hiking a series of immense amid unspoiled mountain scenery and to visit some fortresses, the imposing of the magnificent Welsh medieval castles. So, remains of which can be seen today in places leaving behind the golden Cotswold stone of Bath, such as Chepstow and we crossed over the Severn Estuary and headed north Pembroke. Two hundred into Wales through Abergavenny and Crickhowell Entrance, Llangoed Hall years later, their descen- to the valley of the River Wye. fabrics certainly look the part. And the billiards dants were still having trouble, so, in 1277, King LL ANGOED HALL stands amid 17 acres of room, with its huge Persian carpet and model ships Edward I embarked on gardens and parkland nine miles from the town in glass display cases, is particularly evocative of a the so-called “Conquest of Hay-on-Wye, the scene of an internationally privileged fin-de-siècle world. of Wales.” With the defeat renowned summer literary festival. A house is We were escorted up an imposing staircase in 1282 of Llywelyn believed to have occupied the same site since A.D. flanked by an exotic mural of pheasants and peacocks ap Gru!ydd, the last independent prince, his 560, but today, Llangoed is a 17th-century Jacobean to our third-floor suite. A spacious and tranquil sitting annexation was complete. manor that was extensively modified at the turn of room came with a sofa and armchairs upholstered Like his forefathers, the 20th century. In 1987, the mansion was purchased in pink-and-white floral fabric, framed architectural Edward then set to work in by Sir Bernard Ashley, who, in partnership with drawings, shelves of hardback books and a decanter of a mania of castle-building. The most impressive his wife, had built the Laura Ashley global textile sherry on a silver tray. Mullioned windows afforded of his great fortresses, empire. Three years later, it opened as a 23-room a view of the distant Black Mountains. The bedroom Caernarfon, Harlech, country house hotel. Following Bernard Ashley’s was similarly generous, with a large armoire. The Beaumaris and Conwy, death in 2009, Llangoed was acquired by the Von adjoining well-lit marble bath had been recently survive largely intact Essen hotel group, which promptly fell victim to the upgraded and was equipped with a walk-in shower to this day. If you have time to visit only one, economic downturn. Fortunately, in July 2012, the and a soaking tub. Caernarfon should be house was purchased by a new owner, who has since The exceptionally elegant dining room at your choice. It is not the spent around $3 million on interior modernization. Llangoed Hall is painted a pale Wedgwood blue and largest castle in Wales, Arriving on a rainy afternoon, we were greeted is adorned with a fine collection of paintings and however. That distinction belongs to Caerphilly. by a friendly young woman who hurried out to our drawings by artists of the caliber of James McNeill

July 2013 | hideaway report 5 Wales and east part of England to include Cotswolds, Broadway, (Barnsley House and ??) and southern edge of Bath. Estuary road M-4 to London 150 miles or whatever it is.

Whistler. The menu emphasizes local ingredients The Idyllic Market Town of Ludlow such as Welsh Black beef and Radnorshire lamb, augmented by herbs from the hotel’s own gardens. LUDLOW HAS BEEN DESCRIBED AS THE ‘PRETTIEST TOWN IN ENGLAND,’ Throughout our dinner, the service was exemplary. and this is not a judgment from which I feel any pressing need to dissent. Certainly, it Although Llangoed Hall lacks a spa and a swimming is one of the most unspoiled, thanks to a local administration that has refused to allow inappropriate construction, garish storefronts or superfluous advertising. Located in the pool, amenities now virtually standard at a property so-called “Welsh Marches” — the lands on either side of the border between England and of this type, I found the authentic country house Wales — Ludlow is situated on a hilltop in a bend of the pretty River Teme. With a popu- atmosphere to be more than sufficient compensation. lation of around 10,000, it is the most important market town in south Shropshire and The hotel is in a period of transition under new has been a place of consequence for nearly 1,000 years. As a result, it contains nearly 500 listed historic buildings, the most conspicuous of which is Ludlow Castle, founded in ownership, but I recommend it without hesitation. the 11th century but greatly expanded in the 14th by Roger Mortimer, 1st Earl of March, a The standard of maintenance is high; the staff man powerful enough to depose King Edward II in 1327. A second architectural highlight members seem to have a genuine esprit de corps; is provided by the magnificent 12th-century Parish Church of St. Laurence, which is the and the location is idyllic. resting place of A.E. Housman, whose cycle of 63 poems, “A Shropshire Lad,” was set to music by Ralph Vaughan Williams. For the most part, though, Ludlow is an exceptionally attractive mix of Jacobean half-timbered buildings and elegant Georgian townhouses, mmediately to the south of Llangoed Hall lies through which it is a consistent delight to stroll. Ia range of hills, the Brecon Beacons, which Surrounded by rich farmland, Ludlow is a gastronomic center, with a colorful open-air rises to an elevation of 3,000 feet. Continuing farmers’ market four days a week, plus numerous traditional butchers, bakers and fish- our journey, we drove along the northern edge of mongers, and a celebrated Food Festival in September each year. For a time, the town could boast three restaurants with Michelin stars, but Shaun Hill sold The Merchant Brecon Beacons National Park, and after about two House in 2008, and when Claude Bosi moved his two-star establishment Hibiscus to hours, arrived at the small town of Narberth in the Maddox Street in London’s Mayfair, this was reduced to only one. Chef Chris Bradley has western county of Pembrokeshire. A mile or two been cooking for no fewer than 29 years at Mr Underhill’s, situated beside Dinham Weir farther on, THE GROVE is located in a secluded directly below the ramparts of Ludlow Castle. He styles his establishment “A restaurant with rooms,” and on our recent trip, we stayed for a night in one of the four comfortable setting at the end of a narrow private drive. Much suites that overlook the rushing waters of the Teme. Although not notably luxurious, these of the house dates from the 1680s, though it was accommodations are more than adequate, and come with well-appointed modern baths. significantly extended in the mid-19th century. The Each evening, Bradley serves a nine-course tasting menu in a pretty dining room that exterior of the whitewashed three-story structure opens onto a garden courtyard. His charming wife, Judy, orchestrates the service and is is elegant and simple, while inside, paneled walls, on hand to explain the subtleties of each dish, as well as the accompanying wines (which are chosen from an unusually eclectic and international list). Our memorable dinner wide-plank wooden floors, Oriental rugs, fine old ISLE OF MAN included triumphs such as smoked haddock velouté with horseradish ice cream; duck furniture and smoldering fires create a warm and liver custard and sweet corn cream with lemongrass and ginger glaze; crispy day boat brill relaxing environment. The property was acquired in with pickled vegetables, vanilla and lime; and slow-roasted fillet of venison with caper and 2007 by its current owners, and in the past six years, raisin jus and beetroot risotto. On a calm summer evening, Mr Underhill’s provides a small patch of rural English heaven. H they have engaged in a comprehensive program of restoration. It now offers 20 rooms and suites, plus four adjacent cottages. HOTELS REVIEWED – RATING 4 After an effusive welcome — service at The 1 Llangoed Hall – A93 ANGLESEY CONWY CHESTER Grove tends to be enthusiastic and sincere rather 2 The Grove – A91 5 CAERNARFON 3 Ynyshir Hall – A92 than polished and worldly — we were shown up to SNOWDONIA 4 Bodysgallen Hall – A95 the Rebecca Suite. This turned out to be an extremely 5 The Chester Grosvenor – A90 large single room appointed with a sofa, silk drapes, WALES ENGLAND neoclassical “Zoffany” wallpaper, antique furniture I rish Sea MACHYNLLETH and a super-kingsize bed. Overall, the atmosphere 3 IRELAND was serene and civilized. To my amazement, the Cardigan Bay LUDLOW adjoining bath was state-of-the-art, with Italian tiles, a large walk-in shower, twin basins and an HAY-ON-WYE impressive cast-iron double-ended soaking tub. St. George’s Channel 1 GLOUCESTER Much of The Grove’s growing reputation is BRECON 2 attributable to the talent of chef Duncan Barham, NARBERTH whose locally sourced Modern British cuisine has TO LONDON PEMBROKE 150 MILES been deservedly praised by the London press. The CARDIFF (from Cardi!) 020 40 MI pretty dining room is decorated with contemporary Bristol Channel BATH 020 40 KM paintings, and its widely spaced tables are covered by crisp pink tablecloths. There, we opted for diver

6 hideaway report | July 2013 scallops served with burnt onion and pickled apple; surprisingly modest structure, particularly as one of CULTURAL HERITAGE and a ham hock ballotine with a pea velouté. Both its former owners was Queen Victoria, who planted were delicious. Our main courses of Brecon red deer Chester a Persian ironwood tree that more than a century served with turnips and glazed shallots; and roast later is still renowned for its splendid fall foliage. leg of Carmarthenshire lamb with confit tortellini The ancient city of Chester The interior of the property serves as a gallery for is located on the English and red cabbage were equally outstanding. an evolving exhibition of Rob Reen’s artwork. Reen’s side of the England/Wales Although delightful, The Grove is not a true border. It is an attractive style tends to the dramatic and brightly colored, luxury hotel, and it offers few facilities other than and historic place, where and while this can work well in the public areas, in-room massage. Aside from exceptional cuisine, the the principal streets still some of the bedrooms are rather too flamboyant property provides a comfortable and convenient base conform to the plan of for my taste. “Matisse” in particular is a riot of the Roman city laid out from which to tour Pembrokeshire and southwest in A.D. 79. (The Grosvenor fuchsia and cyclamen pinks that I found positively Wales. Chief among the area’s attractions are the Museum has two disconcerting. Fortunately, we had opted for the 12th-century Norman castle at Manorbier and the interesting Roman recently refurbished “Studio” adjacent to the main 13th-century medieval fortress at Pembroke. We galleries.) Chester’s house, which is decorated in more restrained style medieval city walls are and comes with a woodburning stove, a sizeable also found time to hike along a clifftop stretch of virtually intact. Much of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, which provides the city center is reserved walk-in closet, a small patio accessible through panoramic views of Skomer and Skokholm islands for pedestrians, and it is French doors, and an unexpectedly glamorous — both wildlife reserves teeming with seabirds — an extremely agreeable bath with a stall shower, a freestanding tub and as well as unspoiled golden beaches such as those place in which to stroll, to underfloor heating. shop and to sightsee. at Marloes Sands and St. Brides Bay. The Chester Grosvenor The dining room enjoys a deserved reputation is a comfortable 80-room — Ynyshir Hall is part of the Relais & Chateaux n a previous Welsh trip more than 15 years hotel with obliging service organization — and chef Paul Croasdale makes before, we had enjoyed a brief stay at YNYSHIR and a full range of good use of local lobster, crab, salmon and trout, O amenities, including a HALL , next to the estuary of the River Dyfi on the lavish spa and the as well as Welsh lamb, beef and venison. Kitchen coast of Mid Wales. The nine-room property had Michelin-starred Simon staff also forage for wild mushrooms, garlic, wood debuted in 1989 and was subsequently a labor of Radley restaurant. The sorrel and samphire. There are few other amenities love for painter Rob Reen and his wife, Joan. In concierge can arrange for at Ynyshir Hall — a small spa is planned, I am excellent private guides. the early years of the 21st century, British country told — so the property is chiefly a place at which house hotels were thriving and were consequently regarded as highly desirable assets. The business HOTELS AT A GLANCE attracted the attention of a flamboyant entrepreneur, LLANGOED HALL — LIKE Edwardian house-party atmosphere; fine restaurant; friendly sta!; scenic location. DISLIKE The lack of fitness facilities (though the absence of an elevator Andrew Davis, whose company, Von Essen hotels, to the third floor mitigates this omission to some extent); weekends are often taken over by began to assemble a stellar portfolio of properties, weddings. GOOD TO KNOW Front desk sta! can arrange qualified mountain guides for hikes in the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons. RATING A93 STATE DELUXE ROOM, $385; MASTER 33 in all, which included iconic names such as SUITE, $460. LLYSWEN, BRECON, POWYS, LD3 0YP. TEL. (44) 1874-754525. LLANGOEDHALL.CO.UK Sharrow Bay (the very first British country house THE GROVE — LIKE Atmospheric public areas with fine old furniture and log fires; notable cuisine; pretty grounds carpeted by spring flowers. DISLIKE Slightly haphazard service, espe- hotel), Cliveden (once the English home of the Astor cially at the front desk. GOOD TO KNOW This is a comfortable and stylish, though not especially family) and Llangoed Hall. In 2006, Davies acquired luxurious, property; the hotel can be tricky to find, so be sure to have a local map or GPS and to arrive in daylight. RATING A91 DELUXE KING, $340; JUNIOR SUITE, $385. MOLLESTON, NARBERTH, Ynyshir Hall to add to his burgeoning empire, but SA67 8BX. TEL. (44) 1834-860915. THEGROVE-NARBERTH.CO.UK in 2011, the company collapsed with debts of more YNYSHIR HALL — LIKE Charming hosts; delicious food; tranquil and secluded setting. than $450 million, and the decade-long Von Essen DISLIKE The flamboyant decoration of some rooms is not for the fainthearted. GOOD TO KNOW The landscape of the Dyfi Estuary, and Mid Wales in general, is extremely beautiful, but saga was over. The future of the hotels and their some of the coastal towns are scru!y and depressing. RATING A92 DELUXE ROOM, $615; KING employees was extremely uncertain, so it was a STUDIO, $840. EGLWYSFACH, MACHYNLLETH, SY20 8TA. TEL. (44) 1654-781209. YNYSHIRHALL.CO.UK BODYSGALLEN HALL — LIKE Paneled Jacobean public areas; exquisite gardens; impressive great pleasure to learn that Rob and Joan Reen had new spa. DISLIKE The baths can be old-fashioned and on the small side; the Wi-Fi is unreliable. reacquired Ynyshir Hall at the beginning of 2012. GOOD TO KNOW Avoid North Wales in summer, and visit Caernarfon and Conwy castles during the week, as on weekends they can be overrun with tourists. RATING A95 SUPERIOR KING, $390; To renew our acquaintance with the property, SUPERIOR SNOWDONIA VIEW, $535; SUITE, $650. THE ROYAL WELSH WAY, LLANDUDNO, LL30 1RS. we left Pembrokeshire and headed north, taking TEL. (44) 1492-584466. BODYSGALLEN.COM an inland route rather than the more direct, but THE CHESTER GROSVENOR — LIKE Ideal location; obliging sta!; spacious, air-conditioned rooms with exemplary modern baths. DISLIKE The hotel has been recently refurbished, and less appealing, coastal road. A two-and-a-half-hour some aspects of the new décor diminish its historical atmosphere and are in questionable taste. GOOD TO KNOW The center of Chester is pedestrians-only, but when you reach the barrier, you drive brought us to the inconspicuous gateway of the will find a hotel representative there to assist you; retrieving your car from valet parking can be Ynyshir estate. There, the grounds were just as we extremely time-consuming, however. RATING A90 DELUXE ROOM, $380; DELUXE SUITE, $460. remembered, with majestic trees set in expansive, EASTGATE, CHESTER CH1 1LT. TEL. (44) 1244-324024. CHESTERGROSVENOR.COM A denotes a Harper-recommended hotel; more information is available at AndrewHarper.com gently sloping lawns. The two-story house is a

July 2013 | hideaway report 7 Wales: A Weeklong Journey continued LAST WORD to read, to stroll and to gaze at the lovely Cambrian restored stone farmhouse — we headed to the dining hills. Ornithologists, however, will wish to visit the room in the Main Hall. This is an utterly lovely neighboring nature reserve, which is notable for its room, with tall windows topped by medallions of migratory geese and ducks, as well as for numerous stained glass that overlook a manicured 17th-century species of resident water birds. parterre. Chef Michael Cheetham’s seasonal menu is not particularly extensive, but everything I have rom Ynyshir, we continued north to Snowdonia, tried has been excellent. On this occasion, feeling F the most dramatic and mountainous area in the mood for something simple, I opted for the of Wales. Although none of the region’s peaks smoked salmon with lemon and cracked black Special exceeds 4,000 feet, the sheer rock walls and steep pepper, which proved to be memorably good. And Occasions glacial valleys are impressive, with the road from for my main course, I enjoyed a delicious seared duck Sta! at the Andrew Beddgelert to Capel Curig via Nant Gwynant being breast, with honey and pepper creamed potatoes, Harper Travel O#ce constantly try to invent especially spectacular. One of my favorite British beetroot and glazed onions. distinctive new services. hotels is located close to the picturesque coastal Sometimes, however, town of Conwy, little more than a dozen miles rom Bodysgallen, it is a 45-minute drive to the ideas come from from the northeastern boundary of Snowdonia Caernarfon, the most imposing of all the Welsh subscribers. In recent F years, we have been asked National Park. An castles, which, along with the fortresses at Harlech, on innumerable occa- In the distance, imposing 17th-century Beaumaris and Conwy, is listed as a UNESCO sions to help plan events it was possible house surrounded by World Heritage site. The other local attraction not such as family reunions, more than 200 acres of to be missed is the 80-acre Bodnant Garden, today milestone birthday “to make out the gardens and parkland, administered by the National Trust. Bodnant is parties and honeymoons. ramparts of Conwy Why, we were asked, did Castle set against BODYSGALLEN HALL particularly famous for its breeding program of we not have a depart- a backdrop of the is now part of a small rhododendrons and azaleas, as well as for collections ment dedicated to such Snowdonia hills. group of hotels owned of camellia, hydrangea, clematis and magnolia. Its itineraries? Well, now we by the National Trust, a celebrated laburnum arch generally flowers during have. Travel consultants have been assigned to a charitable organization responsible for conserving the first week of June. new “Special Occasions buildings, gardens and landscapes of particular To conclude our journey, we decided to head Desk” and are waiting beauty and significance. (I recommend that all south through the so-called “Welsh Marches” to to assist you. On our travelers to England and Wales download the free spend a night in the lovely English border town of website, you will find sample itineraries: a National Trust app.) Ludlow (see box on Page 6). If time is short, however, family trip to Kenya, for Although the house was modified in the late the A55 at Conwy connects with the M56, M6 and example, on which partici- 19th century, the grand entrance hall and the M1 highways, and it is possible to be back in Central pants will meet legendary magnificent paneled drawing room directly above it London (or at Heathrow Airport) after a four-and- conservationist Daphne are surviving parts of the original Jacobean structure. a-half-hour, 250-mile drive. H Sheldrick and visit her elephant orphanage, as Our second-floor room proved to be the embodiment well as participate in a of old-fashioned comfort, with pastel colors, floral ANDREW HARPER TRAVEL OFFICE Maasai family blessing in For personalized trip-planning assistance, contact our Tanzania’s Ngorongoro fabrics, and furnishings that looked lived in, rather travel consultants, who have experienced many Crater. Another favorite than worn. Stone mullioned windows surveyed recommended properties firsthand. They are passionate of mine is a private the property’s formal walled gardens, while in the about creating unforgettable journeys for our subscribers. Call (800) 375-4685. birthday trip aboard a distance, it was possible to make out the ramparts canal barge in Burgundy, of Conwy Castle set against a backdrop of the Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew on which guests will meet Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication the owner of Gevrey- Snowdonia hills still blanched by late-spring snow. for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants There are some hotels I am prepared to forgive any for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Chambertin, one of the Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel most famous Grands Crus number of minor failings, and Bodysgallen is one of expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage in the Côte de Nuits. them. But to be honest, our bath was a little cramped is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing o#ces. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. and old-fashioned and an upgrade was overdue. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2013 Andrew Harper LLC, CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. Having paid a visit to the hotel’s new spa — All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, prohibited without written permission from the publisher. GO TO ANDREWHARPER.COM/ which has five treatment rooms, a 50-foot indoor TRAVEL-OFFICE/ Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell SPECIAL-OCCASIONS. pool and an impressive gymnasium housed within a Illustrator Melissa Colson

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