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$2.99 VOLUME 69, Number 53 december 13–19, 2013 The Voice of the Industry for 68 years Loyola Law School Carves Out a Program for Fashion Law

By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor Law schools in the West have specialties in entertainment law, sports law and biotech law, but it is rare to find a school that has a concentration of classes devoted to fashion law. That is changing. Next year, Loyola Law School in down- town is introducing a concentration of fashion law classes that will give attorneys a focused education on the legal matters faced every day by the hundreds of fashion com- panies located in Southern . This makes Loyola Law School the second law school in the country with a fashion law program that is more than just one or two fashion law or trademark classes. Fordham Law School in New York City was the first in the nation, open- ing its Fashion Law Institute in 2010 with six fashion law classes and a fashion law boot camp. The Fashion Law Project, as the Loyola program is being

➥ Loyola page 2 Lucky Brand Jeans Sold to Los Angeles Private-Equity Firm

By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor

Fifth & Pacific Companies, which used to be known as Liz Claiborne Inc., has agreed to sell Lucky Brand Jeans for $225 million to Leonard Green Partners, a Los Angeles private-equity company. The deal should close in early 2014. The transaction, announced Dec. 10 and approved by the board of directors on Dec. 8, involves a $140 million cash payment and $85 million in a three-year seller note that carries $8-million-a-year interest plus another $417,000-a- month interest for a maximum payment upon maturity of $100 million. The note can be paid off at any time. The $225 million purchase price is equivalent to seven times Lucky Brand’s earnings before interest, taxes, depre- ciation and amortization, also known as EBITDA.

➥ Lucky Brand page 4

Inside: Where fashion gets down to business SM

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New store TheSeventhLetter opens ... p. 2 Sport Chalet wins design award ... p. 2 New Resources ... p. 12 2013 newsmakers Salute to Suppliers & Services ... p. 13 This was a big year for bold statements, new—and, sometimes, surprising—partnerships, new leaders, pioneering up- and-comers, and sage advice from industry experts. The editors of California Apparel News take a look at the big news and the newsmakers of 2013. Coverage begins on page 6. www.apparelnews.net

01,2,4.cover.indd 1 12/12/13 7:39:38 PM NEWS TheSeventhLetter Flagship Opens; One Partner Is Agenda’s Aaron Levant With more than 1,000 people waiting in There are no plans in the near future to had been vacant for more than five years. to say how much the building’s renovation line to get inside the flagship store and art build more TheSeventhLetter flagships, Le- The partners in the brand—Levant; Bill cost. “It was very expensive,” he said. “A gallery of TheSeventhLetter at 346 N. Fair- vant said. “We like to think of it as a mu- Hebner, formerly of pioneering streetwear high-end retail place is not cheap.” fax Ave. in Los Angeles on Dec. 7, the debut seum with a gift shop,” Levant said of the brand Fresh Jive; and TheSeventhLetter Zoltan designed the look of the store. It has looked more like a movie premiere. 5,000-square-foot flagship, which features founder Casey “Eklips” Zoltan—complete- a black exterior juxtaposed with an all-white The night also was the first foray into retail more than 150 paintings and installations ly renovated the building. Levant declined interior.—Andrew Asch by Agenda trade show founder Aaron Levant. from street artists such as Shepard Fairey. Agenda operates three trade shows devoted to Levant was trained as a graphic artist and streetwear, action sports and fashion, which has occasionally curated galleries of street Loyola Continued from page 1 law classes addressing apparel-industry issues run biannually in Long Beach, Calif.; New art. The flagship’s art is for sale, and the ob- often got shot down by academics. York; and Las Vegas. The Long Beach show jets d’art can retail for $300 to $16,000. called, was created by fashion attorney Staci Susan Scafidi, founder and academic direc- is considered the dominant streetwear and The flagship will sell T-shirts, fleece Riordan, a Loyola Law School alumna and tor of the Fashion Law Institute, a separately action-sports trade show on the West Coast. and caps from TheSeventhLetter. Retail partner and chair of the fashion law practice incorporated nonprofit at Fordham Law Agenda is a dominant trade show for prices for the brand’s apparel range from group at the Los Angeles office of Fox Roth- School in New York, said she had the idea in streetwear and action sports, said Sarah $25 to $75. It also will offer products from schild LLP. She is now also the executive di- 1998 to structure a series of law school classes Owen, an editor for trend-forecasting group the label’s collaborations from other popu- rector of the Fashion Law Project. around the industry, which is such a major WGSN, based in New York City. “From the lar streetwear brands such as RVCA, The Riordan is the fourth generation of her fam- presence in New York and New Jersey. “They buying perspective, it’s one you can’t miss Hundreds and Rook. ily to be in the fashion business. Her great- thought it was too girlie and frivolous,” she from if you’re in the game,” Owen said TheSeventhLetter moved into a site that grandfather and grandfather were in the tex- said, even though there were disciplines in en- tile business in South Carolina. Her mother, tertainment law, sports law and art law. “It was Karen Stein, manufactured childrenswear and a long fight for me to get it.” women’s apparel. Riordan worked with her for Finally, she persuaded the law school dean Downtown Los Angeles Sports many years, handling sales, shipping, fashion that a course was needed. In 2006, she taught market-week visits and even modeling. her first “Fashion Law” class. “I convinced Riordan knew that fashion law was a seri- them I should not only teach a class but that it Chalet Wins Design Award ous subject that needed to be embraced by was a real discipline, and it went from there,” The Sports Chalet at FIGat7th retail cen- from FIGat7th. The recently renovated shop- more law schools. And where else but in Los said the full-time professor. ter in downtown Los Angeles knocked it out ping center also counts tenants such as Target Angeles, where so many apparel companies Classes at the Fashion Law Institute include of the park, at least when it comes to design. and has announced that a Zara and a Victo- are in need of legal help? “Fashion Retail Law,” “Fashion Law and Fi- The sporting goods and athletic-wear ria’s Secret will be moving into the center. Nearly two years ago, Riordan was speaking nance,” and “Fashion Ethics, Sustainability emporium opened in June and was hon- Other winners of ICSC’s development about that very subject at a law school alumni and Development.” ored with the Silver Design and Develop- awards include The Taubman Co.’s City event in Los Angeles where the law school’s Serving the large apparel industry in Los ment Award, it was announced Dec. 6. The Creek Center. The Salt Lake City retail dean, Victor Gold, was in the audience. “After Angeles was one of the reasons Loyola Law shopping-center trade group International center was honored with ICSC’s Gold De- the event, the dean came up and said, ‘You’re School felt the Fashion Law Project was Council of Shopping Centers handed out sign and Gold Sustainable Design Award for hired.’” needed. “The fashion industry is huge, and design awards for projects in the continental mixed-use projects Other retail stores that Riordan immediately started working with we haven’t paid sufficient attention to it,” said United States. won ICSC awards for architecture included a Sean Scott, the law school’s associate dean Sean Scott, Loyola’s associate dean for faculty. The project’s architect was Gensler, a Belk department store in Monroe, N.C., and for faculty, to develop the project. It got off “I think we need to make sure that we are stay- prominent architecture firm that runs a Los Aéropostale’s new prototype store in Garden the ground in January this year when Riordan ing current with the market and figuring out Angeles office located a five-minute drive City, N.Y.—A.A taught her first class, “Fashion Law,” which where the job opportunities are and taking ad- focuses on brand building, fashion financing, vantage of the business out there.” import/export rules and celebrity endorse- Other law schools in California offer one ments. For the fall semester, Deborah Greaves, or two classes in fashion law but nothing as the former in-house counsel at True Religion, comprehensive as Loyola Law School. South- taught a class on “Fashion Law Business western Law School in Los Angeles will have Transactions.” a four-night intensive fashion law course this More classes are being offered next year. January in between academic semesters. It They include “Fashion Modeling Law” and is being taught by adjunct professor Hillary a “Fashion Law Clinic,” pairing law students Kane. with emerging designers for hands-on experi- Kane said she has 30 students signed up. ence in running a company. A class in “Fash- “Most of them have a business or legal career ion Mergers and Acquisitions” will also be part in mind,” she said. of the curriculum. The Fashion Institute of Design & Mer- In late July, the law school will offer a 10- chandising teaches a class in intellectual prop- day intensive fashion law seminar to give law erty and law as well as business law. students as well as fashion-industry executives In New York, the Fashion Institute of Tech- and fashion students a crash course in the busi- nology offers a class in “International Business ness and law of fashion. Practices and Fashion Law” while Brooklyn There will also be annual symposiums on Law School has a “Fashion Law” class. trending topics. The first one will be March 22, Law firms appreciate having attorneys who 2014, with panels on omni-channel marketing have some background in the field instead to discuss how technology and social responsi- of leaving it to the usual on-the-job training. bility are affecting the fashion industry. “The reality is you have had to teach them,” A scalable ERP system is critical to apparel said Greg Weisman, an attorney who works Is law fashionable? with a number of apparel companies and is head of the West Coast office and retail companies in growth modes, For years, a number of law firms in Los An- of Ritholz Levy Sanders Chidekel & Fields regardless of the type of expansion. geles and around the country have had fashion LLP. “It is really an exciting time for fashion law groups dedicated to working with the ap- law because the discipline, which really named parel industry. But the idea of a collection of itself, is now getting traction.” ●

“Simparel provides the scalability to complement our growth strategy.” Swim Maker Raj Opens New Factory in Santa Fe Springs Tustin, Calif.–based Raj Manufactur- Alex Bhathal. “Costs are cheaper there, but at Director of IT, Leading Developer of Accessory Lifestyle Brands & Products ing—maker of swimwear under the Athena, the end of the day, we believe in the quality Next by Athena, Luxe by Lisa Vogel, Nauti- control and inventory flexibility that domestic ca, Guess, Ella Moss, Splendid, Hurley and manufacturing allows.” Reef brands—opened a new manufacturing The Santa Fe Springs facility opened in The Unified Global ERP Solution facility in Santa Fe Springs, Calif. mid-November and is expected to employ The new factory complements Raj’s exist- up to 100 workers. The company expects The Flexible, Scalable ERP Solution for the ing facility in Tustin, which has been in opera- the factory to be able to produce 500,000 tion since 1978. suits per year. Apparel, Footwear & Accessory Industries “As our company has grown through the “We are proud to support the California years, we have maximized the available ca- swimwear industry. We live in the swimwear pacity in our on-site factory and had to rely mecca of the world,” said Lisa Vogel, Raj co- www.simparel.com | 212.279.5800 | [email protected] more on outside contractors, including some president and creative director for the Luxe by in China and Mexico,” said Raj Co-President Lisa Vogel collection.—Alison A. Nieder

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS december 13–19, 2013 APPARELNEWS.NEt

01,2,4.cover.indd 2 12/12/13 7:27:53 PM Ad template.indd 2 12/12/13 7:54:32 PM NEWSnews ’Tis the Season… Serge Azria Names CFO and COO at Dutch L LC Los Angeles–based Dutch LLC named Jennifer Adams chief financial officer and Mi- chael Saunders chief operating officer of the company, owner of the Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott brands. From now through the end of the year, Previously with Kellwood Co., Sanders has more than 15 years’ experience in brand de- velopment and international expansion. Adams was previously CFO of 7 For All Mankind, helping to establish global partnerships for the denim lifestyle brand. California Apparel News “Our company has experienced incredible growth year after year since 2007,” said Serge Azria, chief executive officer and creative director of Dutch LLC. “This is greatly attributed is offering a holiday special— to our talented and amazing employees. Now, with the addition of Jennifer and Michael, we have completed the dream team. I welcome them to the Dutch family.”—Alison A. Nieder

2 ads for the price of 1! Lucky Brand Continued from page 1 Companies—a return to our roots as a mono- brand company. Just as I indicated back on Lucky Brand Jeans, whose headquarters Oct. 7, when we announced the Juicy Couture are in the arts district of downtown Los An- deal with Authentic Brands Group, the deci- geles, has been a profitable entity for Fifth & sion to sell Lucky Brand Jeans is the result of From Newsmakers to Pacific. In the first nine months of this year, a process we began last year—studying our Lucky had $346.4 million in net sales, com- resource-allocation needs, our capital struc- Year in Review, these pared with $324.3 million during the same ture, and the operating risks and opportuni- period in 2012. ties associated with a multi-brand portfolio. are some of our best- Gene Montesano and Barry Perlman, who Simply put, it is the outcome of our work to started Lucky Brand in 1989, sold 85 percent identify the best way to unlock shareholder read issues. of the company to Liz Claiborne in 1999 for value,” said Fifth & Pacific Chief Executive $125 million. William McComb. Fifth & Pacific has been shopping the la- “Taken together, the deals we have an- bel around for some time along with other nounced recently related to our divestitures December 6 concerns. Recently, the apparel venture sold of Juicy Couture and Lucky Brand Jeans Cover: retail Financial report the intellectual-property rights for its Juicy result in estimated net proceeds of $370 mil- Couture brand, another Los Angeles la- lion to $380 million, which includes the face Fashion Resource bel, for $195 million to Authentic Brands value of the seller note in today’s transac- Group. Juicy Couture saw sales drop to tion. The aggregate net proceeds for the two $310 million during the first nine months, transactions reflect estimated cash restruc- December 13 compared with $345 million last year. turing and other transition costs and charges Cover: 2013 newsmakers Over the past few years, the New York– associated with the assignment or termina- e-tail Spot Check based Fifth & Pacific has been shedding a tion of leases, severance and other associ- host of labels acquired over the years when ated operating company transition activities, Salute to Suppliers & Services including estimated costs and charges pre- Advertorial the clothing company was gobbling up popu- Fashion Faces lar labels to boost its business. Fifth & Pacific, viously disclosed at the time that the Juicy which changed its name last year, will now Couture deal closed,” he added. December 20 concentrate on its lone label, Kate Spade, In the deal, Lucky Brand will assume its Cover: Fashion which during the first nine months of 2013 had share of sourcing established by Fifth & Pa- 2013 retrospective and $487.5 million in sales compared with $289.2 cific with Li & Fung, a Hong Kong–based Financial Industry review million during the same period last year. company that produces clothing for a num- retail report “It is truly an historic day at Fifth & Pacific ber of companies around the world. ●

December 27 Cover: Year in review CalendarCalendar Surf report Through Jan. 14 Technology Dec. 13 Jan. 7 “Visit Designer’s Couture Agenda Jan. 13 Technology Advertorial Studio—Drape to Create With Long Beach Convention Center Hanna Hartnell” Long Beach, Calif. Printsource 1515 Fourth St. Through Jan. 9 Penn Plaza Pavilion Santa Monica, Calif. New York Jan. 9 Through Jan. 14 Dec. 16 Surf Expo Designers and Agents “LA Fashion District Major Marts Orange County Convention Center The New Mart Walking Tour,” presented by Orlando, Fla. Los Angeles Fashion Business Inc. Through Jan. 11 Through Jan. 15 Los Angeles Fashion District Los Angeles Jan. 12 Jan. 14 Los Angeles Fashion Market Première Vision Dec. 18 California Market Center Metropolitan Pavilion and Altman “The Production Department Gerry Building Building Process” webinar, presented by Cooper Design Space New York Fashion Business Inc. The New Mart Through Jan. 15 online 824 Building Lady Liberty Building Jan. 6 Primrose Design Building Academy Awards Building There’s more Designers and Agents on ApparelNews.net. Starrett-Lehigh Building Los Angeles New York Through Jan. 15 Through Jan. 8 Select For calendar details and contact Call now to book your space. Transit information, visit ApparelNews. California Market Center net/calendar. And don’t forget to ask about our online Los Angeles Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. and e-newsletter holiday specials, too. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. Apparel News Group Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water­wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Proper- ties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2013 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Published­ weekly except semi-weekly first week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and ad- call now for special rates ditional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertis- ers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the Terry MarTinez (213) 627-3737 x213 apparelnews.net opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year sub- scription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

24 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS novemberdecember 1–7,13–19, 2013 2013 APPARELNEWS.NEt apparelnews.net

01,2,4.cover.indd 4 12/12/13 7:28:13 PM (Advertorial)

The quantity and diversity we could produce with Tukatech were the game-changers

When Marty Bailey arrived at American The challenge, as Bailey explains, is less Apparel in 2002, he found “a wholesale coping with the number of items being cut— company focused on printables, 35 styles, although efficiency is essential—but the all of them based on T-shirts or tanks or speed of moving from one cut to another. panties—just wasn’t a broad array of things,” “We have the most diverse cutting depart- he recalls. That would change, in a big way, ment I’ve ever worked with. Cutting’s job is in the ensuing decade. Under Bailey’s direc- to support our sewing.” American Apparel tion as chief manufacturing officer, American employs 2,700 sewing operators. “When you Apparel now produces 1.1 million garments can minimize the amount of time for setups per week, 40 million units last year over some and creating well-utilized markers, then 21,000 SKUs in its 1.25 million square feet of you’re going to service your sewing depart- production space—the largest in the country. ment better. If you do that, you service your WThe downtown L.A.–based vertically inte- end customer better with speed-to-market. grated company also owns two knitting facili- To minimize that time became important, and ties, garment dye and piece dye houses, and that is where Tukatech helped us out.” operates its own retail storefronts in addition In 2010, American Apparel installed to its wholesale business. TUKAcad, the advanced CAD pattern- “More and more and more, it’s becoming building, marking and grading system, as the rule that we’re designing, developing, and well as SMARTmark, a TUKAcad module manufacturing at a pretty breakneck pace that maximizes the placement of markers for all the time,” Bailey acknowledges. “If I have maximum fabric utilization. a concept on a napkin on Monday, we have “There were a number of different reasons the ability to have it hanging on a face-out in we chose Tukatech,” Bailey says. “Tukatech Manhattan on Friday. It’s due to everything integrated easily into our cutting system, we do here in L.A.—design, manufacturing, the which is important. Speed of the implemen- whole gamut is right here.” What makes much tation, reduced training time—any time you of this possible, he notes, is the company’s Tu- talk about that, it absolutely points toward katech fashion technology software systems. an easier, user-friendly system. We were run- Tukatech needs no introduction to the ning on this in days. We were able to take garment industry. For more than 18 years, it the training wheels off and ride by ourselves has taken the lead in providing both software within 30 days. And, of course, cost—it is and hardware technological solutions to the very cost-effective. Another thing, too, Ram’s garment industry with its TUKAcad system right here in L.A. We’re in L.A. We were look- of 3D and 2D pattern-making, marking and ing beyond the purchase to what service we grading, and ultra-precise SMARTmark mark- would have. If I needed help, I could get it ing system. Bailey already knew Tukatech’s real quick.” founder and CEO, Ram Sareen, when he went Tukatech has worked so well for American shopping for design and marker systems. Apparel that Bailey is exploring the possibil- “He’s a good guy and he has good concepts,” ity of adding Tukatech’s cut planning system, Bailey says. “One thing I like about Tukatech TUKAcut Plan. “With as many different styles is, they know the business, not just their busi- and SKUs we cut on a daily basis, it could ness. You can have conversations, it’s not just be a benefit to us,” Bailey says. “In the same techies talking to techies.” way that a system helps you utilize your A key issue for American Apparel is its fabric as best it can, it can help in switching broad and swift-changing lineup. “It’s not so cutting from one style to another. We have much the volume, but the number of items people who do that now, but, to have a cut and the diversity that were the game-chang- plan that is not necessarily rush-rush-rush, it ers,” Bailey explains. “I have normally 120 could help you to plan that day as efficiently to 130 styles running at any one time. While as possible.” the volume increased in general, the volume While manufacturers of any size can of SKUs is incredible. If I were producing benefit from a Tukatech system, it was the 200,000 pieces a day of one style, I could perfect fit for American Apparel, Bailey notes. With Tukatech’s technology, American Apparel was able to increase its SKUs to 21,000 do it with an old-time marker system. This is “Tukatech fits the way we do business,” he and its volume to 40 million units per year—and growing. a whole different way of functioning, from a says. “We are absolutely happy customers. It manufacturing point of view.” was a good investment for us.”

SucceSS StorieS [email protected] (323) 726-3836 tukatech.com

Tukatech fp 120613.indd 1 12/12/13 6:36:16 PM 2013 newsmakers

Abbot Kinney, “Coolest on Abbot Kinney. Prominent national boutique names such as as chief operating officer and chief financial officer. Street In America,” Robert Graham, Scotch & Soda and Gant opened on Abbot Also this year, Joe’s Jeans acquired Hudson Clothing in a Stays Eclectic Kinney recently. In 2012, GQ magazine called Abbot Kinney deal that basically merges the two Los Angeles companies into “the coolest block in America.” In November, merchants pro- one. Joe’s Jeans, whose principal designer is Joe Dahan, paid Change has been a duced a GQHQ event celebrating the magazine’s distinction. $97.5 million for Hudson, which is a designer and marketer of long time coming for Los Protesters crashed the party and protested with placards, de- denim pants and other apparel. Marc Crossman, chief executive Angeles’ stylish Abbot manding an end to the gentrification of the street. of Joe’s Jeans, said the acquisition made sense because combin- Kinney Boulevard. However, the street has kept much of its eclectic cool. The ing the two companies would save money on the operational A decade ago, it was a Alternative Apparel boutique held a party in May for Ron Fin- side. funky, beachside neigh- ley, the “renegade gardener” who advocates cultivating gardens New York–based Fifth & Pacific Companies, formerly borhood lined with vin- in low-income neighborhoods. Boutique Left House offers ar- known as Liz Claiborne Inc., the big apparel brand, spent tage shops, cafes, meta- tisinal chocolates by Zenbunni and 19th century hats by West- most of this year getting rid of its remaining California brands physics bookstores and a brook Maker. Veteran boutiques such as Ananda, Minnie T’s acquired more than a decade ago. (See related story on the few boutiques selling new and Enda King, which had pioneered retail on the street long cover.) fashion. before Abbot Kinney was the coolest block in America, con- In October, Fifth & Pacific shed Juicy Couture, a brand By 2008, a Steven tinue to do business adjacent to the stores with national names. it purchased for more than $167 million in 2003. The apparel Alan Annex boutique Plenty of the old landmarks such as Abbot’s Pizza, the 2nd concern sold Juicy Couture’s intellectual-property rights to Au- moved to the street, and Community Baptist Church and Roosterfish, a gay dive bar, thentic Brands Group for $196 million. some thought that Abbot Abbot Kinney Boulevard in LA’s remain on the street, keeping Abbot Kinney’s eclectic character Then in December, Fifth & Pacific sold Lucky Brand Kinney would lose its Venice neighborhood with its new retail prominence.—Andrew Asch Jeans to Los Angeles–based private-equity firm Leonard unique character. Green Partners for $225 million. The sales leave Fifth & Pa- “It’s going to be a high-end designer road,” Claudia Milan, Apparel Mergers & Acquisitions cific to concentrate on its one sole brand, Kate owner of now-shuttered Abbot Kinney shop Claudia Milan, Spade, whose sales have more than doubled in the told California Apparel News in 2008. Some very big apparel deals went down this year last year. Five years later, Milan’s prediction was right—and it was with half of them involving some important names in In the swimwear arena, Fortune Swimwear, wrong. the premium-denim arena. based in Culver City, Calif., was sold to Coast Garrett Leight Optical sells $325 pairs of sunglasses on True Religion, one of Los Angeles’ best-known Style Group for an undisclosed price. The merged the street. Internationally acclaimed boutique Satine sells blue-jeans companies, which was co-founded in 2002 companies are now known as CSG Brands. designer clothes such as Yigal Azrouël dresses, which retail by Jeff Lubell and his now ex-wife, Kym Lubell Gold, CSG Brands principals Craig Soller, Stephen above $1,450. More fashion boutiques moved onto the street in went for $824 million, surpassing the $775 million Soller and Gary Bulb had been working with For- 2013. –based boutique chain Ruti opened sale of premium-denim label 7 For All Mankind to tune Swimwear since 2010 to expand the com- on the street adjacent to a new shop by designer VF Corp. in 2007. The buyer of True Religion was pany’s offerings beyond swimwear to include a Margaret O’Leary. Canadian brand Roots Canada Ltd. TowerBrook Capital Partners, which has offices in full range of women’s apparel offerings, including opened a shop for its leather jackets on Abbot Kinney this year, New York and London. dresses, intimate apparel and sportswear. and even a fast-fashion retailer, Heavenly Couture, took a bow Since the purchase was made earlier this year, a host —Deborah Belgum on the street in 2013. of new executives have come on board. David Conn Stores often seen in malls, such as Lucky Brand, opened was named chief executive while Eric Bauer took over ➥ 2013 Newsmakers page 8

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS december 13–19, 2013 apparelnews.net

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2013 Newsmakers is poised to become a destination for shop- Continued from page 6 pers, as well. Following on the heels of a handful of pio- The Battle for Billabong neering multi-line boutiques—including Bri- gade and Sixhundred—downtown saw an in- The “annus horribilis” of surf giant Billa- flux of independent stores, branded boutiques bong International Ltd. might be coming to and larger chains this year. an end. For more than a year, the Australian- On , a sign on the marquee of the headquartered company was embroiled in former Rialto Theater announces a Dec. 19 bitter proxy fights and hobbled by plummet- grand opening for a 10,000-square-foot Ur- ing stock value on the Australian Securities Exchange, all while running an international business without a permanent chief executive officer. Any one of these issues could have spelled the demise of a smaller company. But Billabong proved it could overcome

Urban Outfitters’ downtown LA location many of the hurdles—perhaps because it was too big to fail. ban Outfitters while across the street in the It is one of the largest surf brands in the turquoise-blue Eastern Columbia Building, world. It employs 6,000 people around the Swedish retailer Acne is preparing to open a globe, and its products are sold at 11,000 re- more than 5,000-square-foot store as nearby tail locations around the world. It also owns Ace Hotel is getting ready for its much-de- two of the action-sports world’s most popular layed opening in the United Artists Building. brands: RVCA and Element, both headquar- A block over on Olive, there’s The Well, an tered in Orange County, Calif. indie boutique and event space that opened On Dec. 12, Ian Pollard, the chairman of last year. Billabong’s board of directors, announced at Over in the arts district, menswear brand the company’s shareholder meeting that there Apolis opened a multi-brand sister store, Al- was light at the end of the tunnel. “Billabong chemy Works, a few blocks from its Apolis has confronted an extraordinary sequence of Common Gallery store on East Third Street. circumstances over the last year,” Pollard said In May, Carl Louisville, the former director in the address. “For the first time in at least 12 of Prada’s Epicenter store on Rodeo Drive, months, the company is in a position where opened Guerilla Atelier, a high-end, multi- we can confidently say who our CEO will be line boutique in a former furniture warehouse for the foreseeable future, and we can confi- in the neighborhood, joining Akai Ito, which dently say who our principal financiers will be sells avant-garde apparel. There’s also 12345, for the foreseeable future.” the mysteriously named multi-line boutique The new chief executive officer and man- owned by Thed Jewel and his partner, Toki. aging officer is Neil Fiske, former chief execu- Both opened last year. tive officer at Washington-based outdoor brand But downtown LA isn’t just be the place Eddie Bauer and a senior retail adviser for for indies and avant-garde brands. The re- DALLAS APPAREL & ACCESSORIES MARKET Canadian company Onex. He took the helm vamped FIGat7th shopping center opened of Billabong in a dramatic game of musical last year with a City Target followed by JANUARY 23-26, 2014 chairs in which the company accepted—then, a 27,000-square-foot “Next Generation” a few months later, dropped—a proxy offer Sport Chalet store, which opened in July from Altamont Capital Partners. Part of the and promptly won an award for its design Altamont deal was to place former Oakley by architecture firm Gensler. (See related Inc. chief Scott Olivet as Billabong’s chief story, page 2.) The subterranean center, for- executive officer. Instead, Billabong decided merly known as the Seventh Market Place dallasmarketcenter.com | 214.744.7444 to accept a financing deal from Centerbridge and now owned by Brookfield Office Prop- Partners and Oaktree Capital Management, erties, also announced Limited Brands which entailed placing their candidate, Fiske, will open an 8,400-square-foot Victoria’s as the chief executive officer of Billabong. Secret and Pink store at the mall next year. At the shareholder’s meeting, Fiske gave And fast-fashion retailer Zara announced Apparel News Group wEb prOduCtiOn prOduCtiOn artist a preview to his administration’s turnaround plans to open a 27,000-square-foot empo- IAN bRAMLETT JOhN FREEMAN FISh plan for the surfwear giant, which he described rium there, as well. ZukE OShIRO phOtO EditOr CrEativE MarkEting dirECtOr JOhN uRquIZA as “fewer, bigger, better.” The area’s other mall, Macy’s Plaza, was LOuISE DAMbERg COntrOllEr “We have been trying to do too many acquired by The Ratkovich Co. for $241 1945-2013 dirECtOr Of salEs JIM pATEL Sixty-eight years of news, and MarkEting things—and none of them well,” Fiske said. million in June. Developer Wayne Rat kovich fashion and information TERRY MARTINEZ CrEdit ManagEr The company had lost focus in the past years. announced plans to invest $160 million to re- aCCOunt ExECutivEs RITA O’cONNOR CEO/publishEr businEss dEvElOpMEnt It would regain focus by concentrating on just develop the ’70s-era enclosed mall on Seventh TERRY MARTINEZ DANIELLA pLATT AMY VALENcIA MOLLY RhODES a few brands, specifically Billabong, RVCA, Street into a mixed-use open-air development ExECutivE EditOr aCCOunt ManagEr Element and some emerging brands such as reminiscent of the New York landmark Rock- ALISON A. NIEDER LYNNE kASch publishEd by sEniOr EditOr salEs & MarkEting COOrdinatOr tlM publishing inC. Von Zipper. It will develop clearer merchan- efeller Center. The renovations are expected DEbORAh bELguM apparEl nEws grOup JENNIFER STuRTZ publishers of: dising planning, inventory and supply-chain to be complete by 2015, and the complex will rEtail EditOr salEs assistant/rECEptiOnist california Apparel News management programs, develop a more robust be renamed The Bloc. ANDREw ASch DAVID MIZE waterwear Decorated EditOrial ManagEr ClassifiEd digital marketing program, and an omni-chan- Even the fashion district is getting in JOhN IRwIN aCCOunt ExECutivEs ExECutivE OffiCE nel retail program. Fiske promised to reveal on the retail action. Eric Martin, co-owner COntributOrs ZENNY R. kATIgbAk california Market center JEFFERY YOuNgER 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 more details of his turnaround program next of The Park showroom at the Lady Lib- bEN cOpE Los Angeles, cA 90079-1777 VOLkER cORELL ClassifiEd aCCOunting (213) 627-3737 year. Stay tuned.—A.A. erty Building, opened Seven Points, an RhEA cORTADO MARILOu DELA cRuZ Fax (213) 623-5707 JOhN EckMIER classified Advertising Fax 8,000-square-foot multi-line store on the sErviCE dirECtOry TIM REgAS (213) 623-1515 aCCOunt ExECutivE ground floor of the building on Los Angeles FELIx SALZMAN www.apparelnews.net Downtown LA as a Retail Destination N. JAYNE SEwARD JuNE ESpINO Street. And a short walk north from the Los [email protected] MIguEL STARcEVIch prOduCtiOn ManagEr Last year it was all about the buzz. This Angeles and Ninth Street intersection is the SARAh wOLFSON kENDALL IN Printed in the U.S.A. wEb prOduCtiOn ManagEr art dirECtOr year, it’s all about the brands. Already a des- MartinMartin boutique. DAMON p. cARROLL DOT wILTZER tination for foodies, downtown Los Angeles —Alison A. Nieder

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS december 13–19, 2013 APPARELNEWS.NEt

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Offset Act of 2000. getting designers more exposure on the runway Known as the Byrd Amendment, this law and in trade shows, putting together webinars allowed American companies that complained that serve as a crash course in how to run a fash- about unfairly traded goods to receive pay- ion business and organizing seminars at trade ment from the additional duties collected by shows to educate the fashion industry on topics the U.S. such as sourcing, merchandising and costing. The law was found to be a violation of WTO This year, FBI held two intensive job-training rules, and, despite a repeal, its effects were al- programs for unemployed workers to boost their lowed to continue. As a result, the WTO al- job skills with computer training. They studied lows Europe to raise tariffs on goods imported everything from Adobe Photoshop/Illustrator to from the U.S., up to a certain amount.—D.B. Excel software. Patternmakers were introduced Frances Harder to the PAD software system, which helps cre- Frances Harder, President, Fashion ate patterns on computers. “There are a lot of Business Inc. middle-aged workers who have good skills but don’t have the computer skills,” Harder said. This year, the training courses Former designer Frances Harder created Fashion were sponsored by Joyce Eisenberg, president of the Ben and The Denim Studio at Selfridges in London Business Inc. in 1999 as a Los Angeles nonprofit group Joyce Eisenberg Foundation, which owns The New Mart to help emerging fashion companies get off the ground. showroom building. Currently, there are about 250 full-time FBI members, and 90 Recently, the MAGIC trade show in Las Vegas started of- European Union Denim Tariff percent of the organization’s clients are minorities or women. fering booth space for a small group of emerging designers From her 7,000-square-foot headquarters in the California selected by Harder and her FBI staff. “We send out emails to At a time when the Obama administration has been trying Market Center, Harder and her staff have been busy this year ➥ 2013 Newsmakers page 10 to boost U.S. exports overseas, Eu- rope this spring put a crimp in the president’s initiative. On May 1, in a trade war that took an unusual twist, the Euro- pean Union raised the import tariff on U.S.-made women’s blue jeans from 12 percent to 38 percent. The tax hike was so steep that it was detrimental to apparel exports be- cause U.S. premium-brand denim has been a popular seller on the in- ternational market. The last-minute decision, an- nounced in mid-April and en- acted two weeks later on May 1, shocked the Los Angeles apparel industry. While some Los Angeles blue-jeans companies already have been manufacturing in Europe for the EU market, others have prided themselves on their “Made in Los Angeles” label, which carries a lot of cachet in high-end European de- partment stores. The tony Selfridg- es department store, which has a huge amount of premium denim, JANUARY 9�11, 2014 is an important buyer of U.S.-made women’s jeans. ORLANDO, FLORIDA The tariff had some U.S. apparel companies considering whether ORANGE COUNTY CONVENTION CENTER• WEST HALL they should leave their Los Ange- les factories and move production to Mexico, which has a free-trade agreement with the EU. This summer, blue-jeans execu- tives from five Los Angeles apparel concerns—including True Reli- The Global Watersports gion, Paige Denim, Koral Los Angeles and Hudson Clothing— met with Miami-based trade and & Beach LifeStyle Tradeshow. customs law firm Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg to figure out a way to get around the tariff. In December, the law firm won a ruling from the United Kingdom customs and tax department, which maintained that jeans made by Hudson Clothing, which was the sole plaintiff in the tariff complaint, could be classified as women’s cot- ton trousers because they use dyes that fade and are not colorfast. Women’s cotton trousers are sub- ject to a 12 percent tariff. REGISTER NOW! The ruling is expected to apply to other U.S. blue-jeans companies SURFEXPO.COM and be upheld by the other 27 Euro- pean Union countries. One concern is that the Europe- an Union now could change the tar- iff to include women’s cotton pants to make sure the higher tariff covers U.S.-made blue jeans. SURF SKATE SUP LIFESTYLE BOUTIQUE RESORT SWIM CONSUMABLES SOUVENIR / GIFT FOOTWEAR The tariff hike was authorized by the World Trade Organization in retaliation for U.S. failure to fully A TRADE ONLY EVENT comply with a ruling against the Continued Dumping and Subsidy

apparelnews.net december 13–19, 2013 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 9

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Ilse Metchek, President, 2013 Newsmakers Continued from page 9 opened in 1976, introduced a new retail wing in 1988, and ren- California Fashion Association ovated the site’s paint and flooring in 1997. However, there had members to apply,” Harder said. “We don’t select them if they been no extensive renovation until 2013. There are thousands of apparel- are not prepared to do business. They need to have proven sales The mall owners, General Growth Properties, spent in related companies in California and money to produce if they get orders.” Last August, about 10 excess of $100 million to improve the mall, which serves con- but not many nonprofit groups that new designers were in the emerging designer showcase, held at sumers from all over the and Los Angeles’ serve as a go-to source informing the WWDMAGIC section of the show. Eastside. The mall went over the basics by getting new floor- the industry about new state laws During Los Angeles International Textile Week, held ing and paint and replacing the 1970s brick walling, which had and regulations, tariff and trade twice a year at the CMC, Harder holds a wide array of semi- made the mall a shadowy place. problems, and other fashion-centric nars on everything from starting your own business to finding a The renovation also features several new escalators and el- issues. sales representative for your line. evators, as well as several architectural showcases of the new But nearly 19 years ago, the Cal- At the DG Expo, a textile resource trade show held in San logo of the mall, which is a letter “G.” One of the showcases, a ifornia Fashion Association was Francisco and New York for designers looking for small mini- set of 9-foot-tall brass letters, spells out “.” founded to help apparel and tex- Ilse Metchek mums, Harder gives seminars on numerous subjects that in- A new look attracted high-marquee tenants. A new Kit- tile businesses grow and serve as a clude costing, sourcing and merchandising. son opened, as well as a BCBGMaxAzria, Porsche Design, voice for the industry. Ever since its For FBI, the fashion year culmi- Silver Jeans Co., Vilebre- formation, it has been helmed by Ilse Metchek, its president. nates in the organization’s annual quin, Original Penguin and Metchek brings to her position nearly four decades of expe- fundraising fashion show at the train- a 15,000-square-foot flagship rience as a designer and owner of her own Los Angeles dress centric Union Station in downtown for Pink, Victoria’s Secret’s company, Ilse M. For years, she was the general manager of Los Angeles. The show, called “All sister brand. The most highly the California Market Center, one of the largest showroom Aboard at Union Station” and spon- anticipated new tenant was a buildings in downtown Los Angeles. sored by the Moss Adams accounting 115,000-square-foot Bloom- Metchek is the person newspaper journalists call when they firm, is an inexpensive way for young ingdale’s, which was the only need a perspective on a fashion or apparel-business issue. CFA designers to be on the runway and get full-line Bloomie’s opened this has been mentioned in stories written in the their brand in front of the community. year. and the Los Angeles Business Journal as well as broadcasts by The cost is $3,500 per runway show, The renovation leaves a ques- National Public Radio and CNBC. which includes a video and photo- tion unanswered, though. Who When not providing an overview of the fashion industry, graphs. This year, FBI raised $48,000 will move into a 140,000-square- Metchek organizes a host of panels and information seminars at from the event.—D.B. foot space that formerly housed trade shows and industry events on subjects such as expanding the Galleria’s ? In a your brand through licensing, protecting your brand and supply Glendale Galleria’s Massive unique deal, the Galleria’s Nord- chain, and how to grow through mergers and acquisitions. Renovation strom moved across the street to This year, Metchek was at the forefront fighting to repeal a the retail European Union tariff imposed on U.S.-made women’s blue If introducing new looks and styles center. The Americana’s Nord- jeans. The tariff went from 12 percent to 38 percent on May is crucial in the retail game, the Glen- strom opened in September, and 1, adding $95 to the cost of a $250 pair of U.S-made women’s dale Galleria shopping center had since then its former Galleria ad- blue jeans. She immediately prompted four congressional rep- been out of step for a long time. dress has been vacant. Caruso resentatives who represent districts in California to send letters The regional shopping center, Affiliated, the landlord of the to the U.S. trade representative urging a resolution and worked which is located some 10 miles north Galleria Nordstrom space, had with trade and customs law firm Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg of Los Angeles, could have been no comment on prospective ten- to figure out a way to get around the tariff. characterized as a sleeping giant. The ants for the vacant space.—A.A. In early December, the law firm won a major victory for Los 1.5-million-square-foot retail center The Glendale Galleria Angeles–based Hudson Clothing in a decision issued by the

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10 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS december 13–19, 2013 APPARELNEWS.NEt

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United Kingdom tax and customs department. Sand ler, Travis Elementary School, and the Boys & Girls Clubs of Los An- Expect Fairfax’s streetwear to expand. TheSeventhLetter & Rosenberg argued that the jeans contained dyes that faded geles and East LA.—D.B. and gourmet burger joint Plan Check recently opened below and were not colorfast, technically classifying them as wom- the intersection of Fairfax and Oakwood. More shops and res- en’s cotton trousers, subject only to a 12 percent tariff. Other L.A.’s Fairfax Becomes Capital of Streetwear taurants are expected to open below Oakwood. The upcoming EU countries were expected to uphold the U.K. decision and boutiques are all expected to have a streetwear edge, said Adam apply it to other brands. Just a few years ago, Los Angeles’ Fairfax Avenue was best Derry, founder of the ABDB brand-development agency and Every year, Metchek organizes an annual meeting, called the known for Jewish delis, religious gift shops and thrift stores. boutique, which is located on Fairfax. “A lot of things will hap- “Crystal Ball,” which gives CFA members prescient insights Canter’s Deli and Schwartz’s Bakery are still feeding mul- pen,” he promised for the street.—A.A. into the economy and current issues affecting the industry. titudes of people, but the street experienced a change in charac- ter. It became the Rodeo Drive Los Angeles Fashion of streetwear, the hip-hop and Week’s New Venues, New skate-inspired youth fashion that is taking a higher profile Players at national retailers such as Los Angeles Fashion Week Tilly’s, Pacific Sunwear and has been an independent effort Zumiez. ever since IMG Fashion and Between Rosewood and Smashbox Studios shuttered Oakwood avenues, Fairfax their joint effort, Mercedes- became the address to the Benz Fashion Week at Smash- highest concentration of the box Studios, in 2008. In the world’s top streetwear brands. intervening years, several show New York, Tokyo and Lon- organizers have tried to recreate don do not have a single street the multi-designer format in a where all of the top brands are central location. This fall, the Veronica Welch Kelsi Smith located. week took on a new look with But on Fairfax, The new venues, new players and a Hundreds, Diamond Supply Co., Supreme and jam-packed schedule that spread over three weeks. streetwear-friendly brands such as RVCA all run Blogger and runway show organizer Kelsi Smith joined the flagship stores. And more are being added. On Dec. 7, lineup last year with her Los Angeles Fashion Council event, TheSeventhLetter opened a 5,000-square-foot flag- featuring Los Angeles designers on the runway at various ven- ship and art gallery on the street. (See related story, ues in downtown Los Angeles. In October, Smith partnered The Hundreds store on LA’s Fairfax Boulevard page 2.) Kayo Corp., a skate company headquartered with real estate developer Caruso Affiliated and brought her in County, recently took over a former bank two-day event to Caruso’s The Grove retail center. building on the corner of Fairfax and Rosewood. In Veronica Welch’s Style Fashion Week has had a longer run Three years ago, Metchek took over the administration of September, Crooks & Castles opened a 3,000-square-foot on the LA Fashion Week calendar, getting its start in 2011. In the Textile Association of Los Angeles, whose membership flagship on the street. October, Welch partnered with AEG, the sports and entertain- has more than doubled. Crooks & Castles co-founder Dennis Calvero said in a re- ment company that owns LA Live, and moved her five-day Through the California Fashion Foundation, a CFA non- cent interview that it was crucial to have a presence on Fairfax event to a 42,000-square-foot tented venue at the entertainment profit entity formed in 1999, the charitable group and TALA if the brand wanted to be in the center of the streetwear game. complex, which also houses the Staples Center. organize an annual scholarship awards luncheon held at the “Our customer is rooted to this block,” he said. The two events were part of a lineup that included returning California Market Center for participating design-school stu- Fairfax’s fame is spreading. Streetwear obsessives from veterans of the scene—Concept Los Angeles Fashion Week, dents. It also has an annual holiday party that gives away toys to around the nation and the world visit Fairfax to see the latest children from the nonprofit Para Los Niños, Dolores Huerta from their favorite brands. ➥ 2013 Newsmakers page 12 S & J USA, Inc.

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apparelnews.net december 13–19, 2013 CalIFOrnIa apparel news 11

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2013 Newsmakers Continued from page 1 Tina + Jo: Artisanal P.O.V. in Ready-to-Wear Line Project Ethos, Fashion Minga, Gen Art’s cetti grew up visiting his grandfather’s factory Fresh Faces in Fashion, Fashion Business in downtown Los Angeles. Tina + Jo is a ready-to-wear Inc.’s All Aboard fashion fundraiser, Africa “I saw what it was to have a family busi- line, but every garment will offer a Fashion Week and LA Fashion Weekend, ness, to struggle but also have success, too,” he unique point of view, said Stefanie which returned to Sunset Gower Studios in told the crowd at the CMC. “I know that Los Betro, designer of the Los Angeles– Hollywood before hosting a second event in Angeles can make the finest clothes anywhere based label. Palm Springs, Calif. There were also several in the world, we can design the finest clothes Dye-house workers paint unique newcomers to the October schedule, including anywhere in the world, we can have the textiles stripes and shapes on the tunic Men’s Fashion Week LA, which was held at that inspire and move the world, as well.” blouses, dresses, tank tops, shorts the California Market Center, and Driven When he was elected in May, Garcetti took and skirts in Tina + Jo’s debut col- by Design, held at the LA Mart in downtown office at a time when the economy was recover- lection. It was delivered for Fall Los Angeles, as well as several solo events ing—but much more slowly than people expect- ’13. The line was picked up by by designers including Sue Wong, Anthony ed. Calling the local textile and apparel industry boutiques such as Elyse Walker Franco, Ashton Michael and Irene by Greg “a cornerstone of our economy,” which “creates in Los Angeles’ Pacific Palisades LaVoi.—A.A.N. jobs and expands prosperity,” Garcetti vowed neighborhood, Stanley Korshak in to “put the recession in the rear-view mirror.” Dallas and Bona Drag, an e-com- Los Angeles Mayor Eric Garcetti — One The new mayor inherited a fledging effort merce boutique in Milwaukee. of Us to bolster Los Angeles’ reputation as a de- Betro and the line’s chief execu- sign capital and a garment- tive officer, Lisa Yoon, also hoped Some Spring ’14 looks from Tina + Jo In October, Los Angeles May- production hub. The Made to make the line or Eric Garcetti was on hand at in LA/Designed in LA cam- stand apart with the California Market Center paign highlights the city as an impressionistic to address the Los Angeles ap- apparel-manufacturing center markings on the parel industry on the opening day and as a design center that sets garments, which of Los Angeles Fashion Market, the trends seen—and made— are made from a much like his predecessor, Anto- around the world. tie-dye process. It nio Villaraigosa, who also helped “With wages rising in Asia also is crafted in kick off market weeks. and dramatic fluctuation in the dye house Tina But while both Garcetti and fuel costs, we have circum- + Jo works with, Villaraigosa (and, indeed, for- stances on our side,” Garcetti Yoon said. mer mayor James Hahn) ac- said in October. “Combined “We try to stay knowledged the impact of Los with our natural advantages— a w a y f r o m t o o Angeles’ fashion industry on the with our status as a creative many colors,” Yoon volker corell local economy, Garcetti opened Los Angeles Mayor Eric capital in film, music, TV; and said. “It’s totally his speech by declaring himself Garcetti the nation’s leading center for different from the typical tie-dye look.” Pat- dresses that look like gowns. part of the local community—“a contemporary art; the tech- terns are inspired by impressionist views of Betro said one aim of the line is to show member of the family, so to speak,” he said. nology explosion that we’re enjoying here— natural views such as sunsets and ripples in that a lot of creativity can be wrapped up in Garcetti’s great-grandfather was a tailor this is now one of the best cities to be a tech water. The line strives to be eco-friendly by basics and dye. “We can be innovative and in Los Angeles who began making uniforms start-up—the intersection of fashion—and working low-impact dyes and other manu- keep it in the U.S,” Betro said of the line’s for troops during World War I. His son, Harry with these strengths, I think, we’re poised to facturing ingredients embraced by sustain- production. “I can develop washes that no Roth, expanded the business to fine men’s suits put Paris and Milan in the rear-view mirror, able fashion. one else can develop. It can be typical Cali- under the name Louis Roth clothing, and Gar- too.”—A.A.N. ● With 70 looks in the line, Tina + Jo’s fornia casual, but it can stand out, too.” silhouettes span through many styles in a Wholesale prices range from $25 to $75. woman’s wardrobe. There are T-shirts, car- For more information, contact Ravid Levy digan sweaters, sheer tank tops and maxi- at [email protected].—Andrew Asch

Post Bellum: Menswear With an Edge Call men’s contemporary line Post Bel- lum a fashion infiltrator. “It’s something that could be worn every- where but with an edge,” said Aaron Pak, director of operations for the Los Angeles– based line, which has been sold at e-com- merce emporium Revolve Clothing and Convert in Berkeley, Calif. Introduced in 2012, the latest collection features drop-crotch bottoms, sheer T-shirts and outerwear with big collars designed to look dramatic when they’re turned up. If these looks would be embraced by guys living in a stylish arts district, Pak be- lieves they could be embraced by a man liv- ing in a suburb. “We wanted to gear our fashion lines to

blend classic style and fashion concepts,” Pak said. “A man could put together a look Print + Online + that is simple but gives off a fashion sense.” The line’s Euro and Japanese influences Archives = Total Access inspire attention to little details such as over- sized pockets and contrast panels. The line uses fabrics such as brushed twills, sanded Get Yours Today and Save 75%! poplins and distressed lambskin. Pak believes that the line is affordable, with wholesale prices ranging from $39 to Visit www.apparelnews.net $300. The label will strive to keep its produc- tion in the U.S. Post Bellum also refuses to overload the market with its looks. “We don’t or call (866) 207-1448 mass produce,” Pak said. “We make limited quantities.”For more information, contact [email protected].—A.A.

12 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS december 13–19, 2013 APPARELNEWS.NEt

06,8-12.newsmkrs.indd 12 12/12/13 7:36:05 PM Salute to Suppliers & Services Resources

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We are always concerned about fabrics for women’s, contemporary, men’s, and children’s with com- [email protected] overseas,” AFC has a 22-year track record proving otherwise. Based in quality, service, price, and creativity. Think of California Label Products petitive pricing. Products and Services: Tukatech is the garment and apparel industry’s Los Angeles, AFC is committed to becoming the dominant domestic knit for all your label needs in 2014! supplier for the swim, active, and contemporary markets. In addition to leading provider of fashion technology solutions. Founded in 1995 by its unequalled selection of knits [and some luxurious wovens] AFC’s eco- S & J USA Inc. garment-industry veteran Ram Sareen, Tukatech offers award-winning friendly textiles include jerseys, French terries, ribs, sweater knits, etc., 843 E. 31st St. 2-D and 3-D pattern making, design, and manufacturing software comprised of organic cotton, organic hemp, bamboo, and other recycled Milberg Factors, Inc. Los Angeles, CA 90011 designed specifically for garment makers of all sizes and skill levels, and natural fibers. “Our customers are often surprised at how competitive Main Office: (323) 231-0811 as well as garment plotters, and automatic cutters and spreaders for our pricing is on the Organic and other specialty lines,” declares AFC Sales 99 Park Ave., 21st Fl., New York, NY 10016 Fax: (323) 231-3820 production. All systems include unlimited training, consulting, process Vice President Yael Ohana. Western Regional Office: [email protected] engineering, and implementation of our technologies. The capabilities of 655 N. Central Ave., 17th Fl. Products and Services: S & J USA, Inc. has been a major, authorized dis- Tukatech’s technology remains unparalleled in the fashion industry, and Buhler Quality Yarns Corp. Glendale, CA 91203 tributor of YKK zippers for over 25 years. We carry a vast array of zippers, all of our products are offered at affordable prices. (818) 649-8662 Fax: (818) 649-7501 and we have an in-house factory that allows us to complete orders quicker 1881 Athens Highway www.milbergfactors.com than our competitors. S & J USA, Inc. also specializes in snaps, tack but- Jefferson, GA 30549 [email protected] tons, eyelets, and elastics, among other trims. Our customers range from (706) 367-9834 Contact: David M. Reza, SVP Western Region the U.S. to Asia, and we hope to expand even further in the future. We are www.buhleryarn.com Products and Services: Milberg Factors offers a competitive menu of known for great customer service and quality materials. [email protected] factoring, financing, and receivables-management products for entrepre- Contact: David Sasso neurial and middle-market companies with more personalized attention Simparel Products and Services: Get more than just yarn. In addition to the than larger institutional firms. A partner of our firm manages every client 53 W. 36th St. industry’s best yarn, we provide unsurpassed technical support, trans- relationship. Our 70-year track record in the core factoring industry 11th Floor parency, and 20+ years of supply chain partnerships. Our US-based assures our clients that they will enjoy a stable relationship supported by New York, NY 10018 facilities allow for quicker delivery and agile responsiveness to market a mature and experienced staff. trends. Known throughout the industry for consistency, our products are (212) 279-5800 certified safe by Oeko-Tex® Standard 100, which include Supima Cotton, www.simparel.com MicroModal® Edelweiss, Micro TENCEL®, and various blends. Visit or Pacific Coast Knitting Inc. [email protected] website, call or email us. 6051 Maywood Ave. Products and Services: Simparel Inc® has become the fastest- This listing is provided as a free service to our advertisers. We regret Huntington Park, CA 90255 growing fashion and apparel manufacturing software solution provider that we cannot be responsible for any errors or omissions within California Label Products (323) 584-6888 in the North American marketplace. With an advanced, industry- Salute to Suppliers & Services Resources. Fax: (323) 582-8880 specific ERP solution like Simparel, fashion-related businesses can 13255 S. Broadway Contact: Mike Tolouee experience a range of long-awaited benefits driven by a unified, Los Angeles, CA 90061 www.pacificknitting.com technically advanced platform—including real-time visibility into

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gArMent rAck reAl eStAte reSource contrActor Moving, Expanding or Consolidating Consulting • Design • Engineering • Installation BUSINESS FOR SALE •Garment storage racks •Rolling racks for garments Good Gauze-$119,000 Palm Springs •Speed rail systems with packing stations •Chain link fencing and gates Dani C’s-$219,000 Palm Desert •Packing tables and work tables •Mezzanines The Right Stuff-$75,000 Palm Springs •Pallet racking and shelving •Conveyors live and gravity roller Richard Danskin Galleries-129,000 J.C. Rack Systems Palm Desert 5232 Alcoa Ave., Vernon, CA WWW.HUGHESPROPERTIES.COM 1-323-588-0137 fax 1-323-588-5067 RE#01341734 760 323 8311 www.jcracksystems.com To advertise call: June 213-627-3737 x250 or [email protected]

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13.advtert.SD.indd 13 12/12/13 7:37:01 PM CLASSIFIEDS www.classifieds.apparelnews.net P 213-627-3737 Ext. 278, 280 F 213-623-1515 www.apparelnews.net

Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available

DESIGN ASSISTANT Purchasing Coordinator Contemporary/ Missy/ Plus Size Apparel Company seeking Source, Develop, and Purchase Fabric, Trims, and Blanks. person with at least 3 yrs of exp. in a Design Room. Must be Issue and track POs proficient in Photoshop/Illustrator, Microsoft Office, and be Monitor inventory levels able to multi task. If interested, please email resume with ART DIRECTOR All candidates send in resumes w/salary history to salary requirement to: [email protected] [email protected] or fax to 213-406-6099 Professional Garment Manufacturer seeking an Art Di- rector. The Art Director will work directly with the Cre- CUSTOMER SERVICE REP ative Director in the development of creative concepts PATTERNMAKER and themes. Trade show booth design/ graphics experi- Well established apparel denim manufacturer is seeking Dress company in Burbank needs First through Produc- ence needed. Develop marketing materials and design a few professional candidate who can meet or exceed tion Patternmaker for Junior Dresses. Must have min. 10 imagery concepts. Production of campaign images and the following requirements; yrs exp & knowledge of PAD is a plus. concepts. Oversee look book shoot execution. - Accurate data entry of POs and follow ups Qualifications: - Ability to check stock/production schedules Email resumes to [email protected] -Experience in Fashion Campaign and execution - Ability to multi-task /work well under pressure -Must be trained formally as a Graphic Designer - Professional verbal and write skills -Must know fashion brands and fashion ad campaigns - Self-motivated & willing to take on challenges -Strong work ethic and positive attitude - Min of 2 yrs of CS experience in garment industry -Effective communicator If interested, please email your resume to We offer a great working atmosphere, competitive bene- [email protected] fit package. Qualified experience candidates fax resumes PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER to 626-934-5201 or email to [email protected] Position open for qualified production patternmaker. Min 10 yrs Exp / Expertise in contemporary construction, garment dye and washes, shrinkages. Knowledge of CUTTER 1ST SAMPLES Sweater Specs. Exp with Gerber System. Must be able Cutter for 1st samples needed. to keep to schedule and communicate well. ASSOCIATE TEXTILE & GRAPHIC DESIGNER Junior experience preferred. Email [email protected] Los Angeles (bebe - LA Studio) Call Kevin at 323-585-4200 or Description: send list of qualifications to: [email protected]. Assist/execute in all graphics needed for the apparel/non apparel businesses; FABRIC CUTTER Color separate and repeat all prints; Create new prints upon request 3-TEMPORARY Fabric Cutter. 02/03/14-11/02/14 All appli- Requirements: cants must be able willing, qualified to perform work de- SENIOR TECHNICAL DESIGNER/BOTTOMS Bachelor's degree; scribed in this JO/Ad & must be available for entire period 5+ yrs. experience in the fashion industry and in the 2-4 years of experience in the field or in a related area; specified. Possible weekly hrs: 35-45. Possible daily hrs: technical area responsible in creating complete technical Must have MS Office and PC skills 8:30A-5P. Possible weekends. Hrs may fluctuate by con- packs from pre-development stage to end production in Must be Photoshop/Illustrator savvy tract/seasonal fashion (+/-), possible downtime/ OT. Set Site full cycle. Must have denim and non denim washed and To apply for this position, please visit our website at location: Los Angeles, Los Angeles County, CA. Dependable: fashion bottoms experience. Familiar with specs and fit- www.bebe.com. Click on our Careers page. Apply to reliable, responsible, fulfill obligations/tasks. Mark or discard ting interpretations. Sit in fittings with designer. Com- req# 13-0393. items w/ defects such as spots, stains, scars, snags, or un- municate overall fit comments/approvals to oversea fac- acceptable shapes; Separate materials accordingly: read tories. Proficient with Illustrator, Photoshop, Word and work orders determine dimensions, cutting locations, quan- Excel. Patternmaking knowledge a plus. tities to cut. Exp.: 6-months Previous work-related skill, Email resume along with salary requirement to: knowledge, or exp. is a must in order to perform the job: [email protected] Knowledge of raw materials, production processes, quality control, costs, other techniques for maximize effective man- ufacture, distribution of goods use hand tools or hand-held Fabric Sales PRINT/GRAPHIC ARTIST power tools to cut, trim variety manufactured items, such as For a domestic line of knits w/ great product & reputation. This position will primarily focus on Prints. The ideal fabric, & other activities as per SOC 51-9031. Must be able Must have min 5yrs of experience & existing customer base. candidate must be able to do Print, Screen & Sublima- to lift/carry fabric bolts up to 50 lbs. Extensive standing. Your information is kept confidential. Send your resume` to tion Design. Proficient in Photoshop and Illustrator. Be Team work essential. Drug/alcohol/tobacco-free work zone. [email protected] able to create prints, index, recolor and put into repeat. Employer will comply w/ applicable Federal, State, local laws Some presentation boards, including flat sketches. pertaining to OT. WAGE: $10.59/hr to possibly $18.00/hr Preferably Junior and/or Contemporary experience. Sales Person DOE. OT $15.89/hr to possible $27.00/hr as applicable. Must We offer a great working atmosphere, show proof of legal authority to work in U.S. Send Resume/ Treated Garment (Tie Dyed, Mineral Washed, Garment competitive benefit package. Application w/ contact info to: Lipstick Prophets, Inc. Dyed, etc.) manufacturer seeking Sales Reps to take pri- Qualified exp. candidates Fax: 213-623-5546 or vate label orders from Retailers, Manufacturers and Li- fax resumes to 626-934-5201 E-Mail: [email protected] censees. Main office in LA., Factory (Cut & Sew, Wash- or email to [email protected] ing, Printing & Embroidiery) in Mexico. Same quality FIT TECHNICIAN and lead time as garment treatment in LA with better price points. Brand new equipments and over 20 years FIT MODEL LA garment import manufacturer seeking a fit experienced technicians and management team. Please technician. Must prepare fit comments and communicate WILT seeks size small fit model ( 36-26-38) full time, part send resume to [email protected]. time or freelance. Please send resume to with overseas factories from proto thru TOP. Must have [email protected] experience in women's wovens and knits. Please email resume to [email protected]

Go to our Self-Serve Website classifieds.apparelnews.net

14 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS december 13–19, 2013 APPARELNEWS.net

121313 class-jf.indd 14 12/12/13 7:49:25 PM Jobs Available Jobs Available Buy, Sell, and Trade INDEPENDENT REPS Sales Representative WE NEED FABRIC Needed across the US! National Junior Denim Brand Miss Me is seeking a Sales Rep for the Miss Me Girls line to Silks Wools Denims Knits Prints Solids... Est. 1922. Calling on Specialty/Boutique stores - work in their LA Showroom. Candidates must have a min of Apparel & Home decorative. Must have est. customer base, Comm. 5% 2 yrs. exp in wholesale apparel sales and a min 2 yrs. exp in No lot to small or large... Resume: [email protected] kids or teen apparel industry is preferred. Must be willing to Also, buy sample room inventories... Or Fax: 626.281.9993 travel. Please e-mail resumes to [email protected]. Stone Harbor 323-277-2777 Marvin or Michael

WE BUY FABRIC! MISSY MERCHANDISER/SELLER Jobs Wanted Excess rolls, lots, sample yardage, small to large qty's. Well estab jr mfr seeks exp Missy Merchandiser/Seller 35 yrs Exp'd ALL FABRICS! for new division. Must have existing relationships with 1st/Prod. Patterns/Grading/Marking and Specs. fabricmerchants.com majors and specialty store chains. Proven record of 12 yrs on Pad System. In house/pt/freelance Steve 818-219-3002 success with ability to "hit the ground running." Amazing Fast/Reliable ALL AREAS Ph. (626)792-4022 opportunity. Reply in the strictest of confidence. Email resumes to: [email protected] Real Estate Garment Buildings Phone now for SALES REP Mercantile Center Classified advertising information: LA based, multi-line contemporary showroom is growing! 500 sq. ft. - 16,500 sq. ft. Priced Right. Jeffery 213-627-3737 We have sales rep positions available in LA & Dallas loca- Full Floors 4500 sq ft. tions. Min. 2-3 yrs exp. in wholesale, road travel, & trade Ext. 280 Lights-Racks-New Paint-Power shows. Must have established relationship with specialty Parking Available - Good Freight. [email protected] boutiques in West Coast or Southwest regions; be self-moti- Call 213-627-3754 vated, organized, proactive. [email protected] Design Patternmaker Garment Lofts Please send resume to: [email protected] 300 sq ft - 1,000 sq ft. Call 213-627-3755

December 20 January 10 Cover: Fashion Cover: Fashion 2013 Retrospective, including Financial Retail Report Industry Review and New Lines/New Showrooms Coming Retail Report Made in America Soon December 27 Made in America Advertorial Cover: Year in Review Fashion Advertorial Technology Finance Advertorial NY Textile Preview and Technology Advertorial Resource Guide

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