THE MAGIC BEHIND THE HOT STREAK AT GUESS/8-9 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 30, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Lace Ahead MILAN — Christopher Bailey showed off the quirky sweetness he’s known for in his spring collection for Burberry Prorsum. Although his inspiration was Cecil Beaton’s Sixties pictures of rock stars and “It” girls, it all had an undeniable freshness. Here, one of Bailey’s fl irty looks: a reembroidered lace dress.

New Billion-Dollar Baby: Dolce & Gabbana Sales Top Benchmark in 2006 By Amanda Kaiser MILAN — Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana referenced Napoleon Bonaparte in their fall collection, and their company’s annual report provides even more evidence the duo is building a fashion empire — a nearly $1 billion one, to be precise. Dolce & Gabbana Srl just published its fifth annual report, which shows double-digit growth in both earnings and revenues. Net profit for the 12 months ended March 31 advanced 11 percent to 108.8 million euros, or $132.7 million. Sales rose 18 percent to 809.5 million euros, or $987.6 million, beating See Dolce, Page 4 PHOTO BY DAVE YODER DAVE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM Villa Moda Plans Initial Public Offering By Miles Socha As reported, Villa Moda plans to open a unit at the Power Station, a major retail and residential WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear PARIS — Villa Moda, a pioneering luxury retailer development in London slated to open in 2009. in the Middle East, is eyeing an initial public of- Next spring, Villa Moda is set to unveil a 32,000- fering as early as December, WWD has learned. square-foot complex in Bahrain boasting boutiques GENERAL According to market sources, the retailer of ranging from Bottega Veneta to Viktor & Rolf. Dolce & Gabbana’s annual report provides evidence that the company is such marquee brands as Gucci, Prada, Fendi and It could not immediately be learned which 1 becoming a fashion empire to the tune of $1 billion in revenue. Dolce & Gabbana plans to list approximately 40 banks are underwriting the offering, but it is Avon Products saw a big drop in third-quarter profi ts as chairman and percent of the company on the stock exchange in believed Villa Moda would be the fi rst luxury ceo Andrea Jung outlined a plan to boost earnings by cutting product. Kuwait, where Villa Moda was founded in 1992. fashion retailer in the Mideast to go public. The 2 It is understood Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah, the company generates estimated annual revenues FASHION: More than 1,000 coeds converged at the Roseland Ballroom for founder, chief executive and public face of the of about 50 million euros, or $62.5 million at cur- 6 MTVU’s third annual Woodie Awards dressed in a decidedly downtown style. retailer, plans to retain his majority stake. rent exchange. EYE: “The Night of Stars” was no misnomer as the Fashion Group Villa Moda, which has two locations in Kuwait The listing would represent an exit plan for International held its annual celebrity-packed fete at Cipriani 42nd Street. and branches in Dubai, Qatar and Damascus, several Kuwait-based investors, who took stakes 10 plans to use the capital raised to fund its expan- in the fast-growing retailer in 2004. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 29-31 sion in the fast-growing Middle East region, plus Al-Sabah was traveling on Friday and could To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. new markets like Asia and Europe. not be reached for comment. [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 90. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. Avon Profi ts Plunge 47% in 3rd Quarter PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. 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Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make plifi cation,” the initiative is de- million in annualized savings. sales surge 28 percent in U.S. dol- our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would signed to reduce the company’s “This is an important first lars to $707.5 million, fueled by 40 interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise total stockkeeping units by a step,” Charles Cramb, Avon ex- percent top-line growth in Brazil us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. 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For the three months ended BEAUTY BEAT Backed by aggressive adver- Sept. 30, the company said net ecutive vice president of fi nance tising and a push to recruit rep- MONDAY: Los Angeles International Textile Show income fell 47 percent to $86.4 and technology and chief fi nan- resentatives, China saw sales (through Wednesday). million, or 19 cents, from $163.8 cial offi cer, said of the de-lay- grow 9 percent in U.S. dollars Accessories and Intimate Apparel Spring Market million, or 35 cents, in the year- ering in previous quarters. “It (and 7 percent in local currency) Weeks, New York (through Friday). ago period as overall revenue has a quick fi nancial payback,” to $49.3 million. Jung reported increased 9 percent to $2.06 bil- he said, adding that Avon has Avon had recruited 236,000 cer- TUESDAY: Hanesbrands Inc. and Procter & Gamble Co. lion. Revenues were boosted by adopted, “a mind-set where we tifi ed sales representatives, each report fi rst-quarter sales and earnings. stellar sales growth in Brazil. continue to evaluate what we registered with the government, Operating profi t for the quar- can do and at what cost.” by the end of the quarter. WEDNESDAY: WWD/DNR CEO Summit, New York ter fell 32 percent, to $168 mil- Jung noted the fi rm will unveil Sales in Western Europe, the (through Friday). lion, pulled down by $16 million a major color cosmetics initiative Middle East and Africa rose 8 per- Steven Madden Ltd. reports third-quarter sales and in costs related to its restructur- next year, saying, “We are reener- cent to $261.3 million, and sales earnings. ing program and $40 million in gizing our largest global brand for in Central Europe ticked up 2 inventory expenses related to Avon, Avon Color, in 2007.” percent to $269 million. Revenue THURSDAY: Kenneth Cole Productions and CVS Corp. its product trimming. For the nine-month period, in the Asia-Pacifi c region fell 3 report third-quarter sales and earnings. “I’m confi dent that our turn- net income dropped 56 percent to percent to $201.3 million, as Avon around plan is the right one, $293.5 million, or 65 cents a share, closed Indonesian operations. FRIDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the

COMING THIS WEEK October employment report. In Brief ● NEITHER TRICK NOR TREAT FOR WAL-MART: Wal-Mart Stores Inc. said on Saturday that October same-store sales for the four weeks ended Oct. 27 rose 0.5 percent. The paltry gain is below the discounter’s recently lowered forecast. Wal-Mart executives during a conference call last Monday said October sales were close to September’s 1.3 percent gain, an estimate that itself was below the company’s previously anticipated 2 to 4 percent gain for the month. In Saturday’s sales call up- date, the company said it would offi cially release fi nal October sales fi gures on Nov. 2. Wal-Mart has been adding upscale mer- chandise to its stores in a bid to get higher income shoppers to spend more at the discounter, but company executives acknowl- edged during an analyst meeting last week that it offered too much of the newer trendy apparel and not enough of the fash- ion basics to meet the demand of its core customers. Company executives also said the discounter encountered sales disrup- tions at stores undergoing remodeling.

● VILLAGE PEOPLE: Value Retail plc, a London designer outlet group, has a new outpost in Ireland. The company has just opened a shopping mall on the outskirts of Dublin called Kildare Village, a 118,000-square-foot retail space with 58 re- tail units. Brands include Molton Brown, Karen Millen, Calvin Klein Jeans, Reebok, Petit Bateau and Quiksilver. “Dublin is one of the European Union’s most successful economies, and has a lot of tourist trade,” said a Value Retail spokesman. He added that Kildare Village was already trading at $900 to $1,050 per square foot per year, compared with Value Retail’s flag- ship Bicester Village, near Oxford, England, which has sales of $1,500 per square foot per year. Kildare is the ninth opening for Value Retail, which has outlets in six European countries.

4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM Dolce & Gabbana Joins Billion-Dollar Club Continued from page one an original forecast for 15 percent growth. (Dollar figures have been converted from Stefano Gabbana and the euro at average exchange rates for the period to which they refer.) Domenico Dolce on the “We have a growth that is very homogenous. We are growing on all fronts,” director runway after their show. of general affairs Cristiana Ruella told WWD, citing plenty of room for expansion for the company, both in terms of products such as accessories and in emerging markets such as China. To be sure, Dolce & Gabbana’s balance sheet will get an even bigger boost during the current fi scal year, when the company will consolidate the sales volume of the D&G diffusion line. The spring 2007 collection was the fi rst to be entirely produced and distributed in-house since Dolce & Gabbana ended its 12-year licensing pact with IT Holding. D&G already does about 250 million euros, or $315 million, a year in sales, and the company is expecting double-digit growth in the label’s fi rst year under direct management. Consolidating D&G’s sales will push Dolce & Gabbana over the 1 billion euro mark in terms of sales, a size approaching that of Italy’s biggest luxury players, such as Giorgio Armani, Prada Group and Max Mara. Armani had sales of 1.43 billion euros last year. “It’s a good benchmark,” Ruella said. “The integration of D&G will allow us to make a large jump.” In the annual report’s introduction, designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce said they are looking to the future “with more enthusiasm and determination than ever,” stressing the importance of optimizing their company’s structure. “We intend to continue along the growth path of the last few years, and at the same time retain our independence. This will allow us to fully develop the still-unrealized potential of our brands and the markets in which we operate,” the pair wrote. In a similar vein, Ruella reiterated the company doesn’t want to go public and instead prefers the operating agility of not having to answer to investors and stock- market regulations. “Today, Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana are free to make decisions they deem are the best ones without being limited by anything,” she said. James Hurley, managing director and luxury goods analyst at Telsey Advisory Group in New York, said the company has excelled on several fronts, from streamlin- ing its corporate structure to creating distinct identities for its high-end and diffusion collections. “I think that they have done a lot of good, smart things, especially in the last few years,” he said. The 75-page report, stocked with glossy images from Dolce & Gabbana’s fall-winter Napoleonic advertis- ing campaign shot by Steven Meisel, was published in hardcover this year. As in previous editions, it sheds light on the business breakdown, investments and re- tail structure. Specifi cally, the tome details how the company in- vested 130.5 million euros, or $159.2 million, on opera- tions, more than twice the previous year’s fi gure. In particular, Dolce & Gabbana spent 48.6 million euros, GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY or $59.3 million, on commercial spaces, including the ditional 40 people as it develops the business. renovated Metropol theater used for fashion shows and In June, the group opened a nearly $48 million D&G headquarters events and the new, stark white D&G headquarters. here, made of opaline glass and white marble from Namibia. Over the Communications investments rose 18 percent to past couple of years, the company has been expanding its Italian pro- more than 86 million euros, or $104.9 million. duction facilities to take on D&G clothing and accessories. Still, Ruella Earnings before interest and taxes for the year rose said the plan is to transfer about 70 percent of D&G’s manufacturing 14 percent to 163 million euros, or $198.9 million, ac- outside Italy to other Mediterranean countries and Asia to remain cording to the document. competitive. Ruella said a 60 million euro advance royalties Returning to the report, Dolce & Gabbana said wholesale revenues, payment from eyewear licensee Luxottica, along with meaning group sales and those made by licensees, rose 10 percent to regular cash fl ow at the company, allowed Dolce & A look from 1.15 billion euros, or $1.4 billion. The company uses this fi gure to break Gabbana to eliminate its debts and move into a positive Dolce & down sales by product, brand and geographic market. Women’s apparel cash position. The company’s net fi nancial position at Gabbana’s and accessories made up 60 percent of the total, while men’s comprised the end of March 31 was positive by 85.8 million euros, spring 40 percent. or $104.68 million. Debts totaled 21.4 million euros, or collection. Clothing is still the company’s biggest product category, making up 46 $26.1 million, in the previous year. percent of the wholesale total. Apparel sales rose 7 percent to 530.6 mil- The company is allocating major resources to the lion euros, or $647.33 million, for the year. Revenue from leather goods D&G project. The younger line could one day, “in spiked 32 percent to 123.6 million euros, or $150.8 million, while that from the very long term,” manage to eclipse the Dolce & fragrances, eyewear, watches and jewelry rose 6 percent to 432.1 million Gabbana brand in terms of revenue, Ruella said. The euros, or $527.16 million. company is in the process of determining pricing, order In geographic terms, Europe comprised 72 percent of wholesale terms and retail development for the line, the execu- sales, the U.S. made up 12 percent of the total, Japan comprised 4 per- tive said. It has hired 460 new employees to develop the cent and the rest of Asia made up 7 percent. D&G brand and plans to boost its head count by an ad- Ruella brushed aside some industrywide concerns of softer consumer spending in the U.S. and said she continues to see momentum as Dolce & Gabbana grows its presence there. The new headquarters in Milan. “I am not worried, because America has never been as [proportion- ally] big a revenue generator for us as it has for other brands, so I still see America as an opportunity rather than as a concern,” Ruella said. To wit, Dolce & Gabbana is starting expansion and refurbishment work on its Madison Avenue store, bringing it up to date with the concept in the Milan, Paris and Los Angeles fl agships and separating the men’s and women’s collections into two distinct stores. The fi nished spaces are due to reopen during the spring or summer of next year. Ruella is just as bullish about the brand’s prospects in Asia, especially China, where Dolce & Gabbana is busy expanding under its wholly owned subsidiary. This year it opened boutiques in Beijing and Shanghai, and a second Hong Kong store is due to open on Canton Road in December. “It’s a country that has a luxury sensibility,” Ruella said. Elsewhere on the retail front, Dolce & Gabbana is preparing to open two freestand- ing stores by the end of the year, a franchised store in Lebanon and a directly owned Barcelona fl agship. Currently, Dolce & Gabbana has a network of 206 stores, 85 of which are direct- ly operated and 121 are run by distribution partners. In terms of brands, Dolce & Gabbana counts 151 stores and D&G has 55. Ruella said it’s too early to determine the retail strategy for D&G, but she doesn’t rule out the possibility of shuttering some stores and wholesale accounts as the com- pany better determines the brand’s customer base. “This year, in this fi rst period of our directly managing D&G, we are applying a busi- ness plan that isn’t based on numbers or quantities, but rather on quality,” she said. AUTHORITY STYLE

Condé Nast Publications congratulates !NNA7I NTOU R on being named Editor of the Year for 2006 by Advertising Age.

Under Wintour’s leadership, Vogue, the 114-year-old standard for fashion journalism, has grown into a universal brand loved and trusted by teens and men, as well as women who care about clothes, culture, society, brilliant writing, and magnificent images. © 2006 Condé Nast Publications, Inc. © 2006 Condé Nast Publications, 6 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 Social

New York WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 7 WWD.COM Studies More than 1,000 coeds converged at the Roseland Ballroom last week for MTVU’s third annual Woodie Awards. Never heard of them? Then you’re probably not in college. MTVU is an on-campus-only network, available at 750 universities nationwide, that’s become a launchpad of sorts for musicians on the verge. And the Woodies — MTVU’s version of the VMAs — go to acts deigned supreme by students. Among those who turned out to see performances by Beck and Imogen Heap, as well as nominees Lady Sovereign and 30 Seconds to Mars, were alterna- hip girls aplenty. Their look was decidedly downtown: belted tunics, skinny jeans, leggings and vintage boots galore. The week before in Los Angeles, another set of scholars boarded the tram up to the Getty Museum for “College Night.” With live music from Bang Gang and free access to the exhibits, about 200 guests demonstrated their fashion diversity with styles that ranged from uptown sophisticate with silk frocks, cropped cardigans and black pumps, to dirty chic, as in shredded jeans, striped Ts and well-worn sneakers. Los Angeles PHOTOS BY CHRISTIAN GRATTAN AND TODD WILLIAMSON CHRISTIAN GRATTAN PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 Guess’ Retail G

By Lisa Lockwood “All of them kept bringing the prices down. Everything was about price point, price point, price point. That was the main trigger. Basically, I didn’t like what I was doing LOS ANGELES — Guess has gone from sliding to skyrocketing. anymore. I didn’t enjoy it. I had no passion for the product anymore. I was not proud In 2001, Guess’s earnings and revenues were deteriorating, its wholesale division of what I had out there anymore,” said Maurice Marciano. was unprofi table, and the brand had lost fashion relevance. Today, Guess has trans- He said the company made the decision to “forget about all the promotions. This formed itself into a retail-focused company with 706 directly owned and franchised is not what we’re about. We’re about quality of product and creativity. So we raised stores worldwide, generating $58.8 million in net earnings and $936 million in rev- our prices, and sure enough, in our stores, there was absolutely no resistance. This enues in 2005. The company is on track to achieve revenues in excess of $1.1 billion is really who our customer is. But by the same token, we lost a lot of business at the this year. The company will disclose third-quarter results Wednesday. wholesale level. We were not able to open retail stores fast enough to compensate. In the past three years, Guess has experienced numerous fi nancial highlights, among But we knew from the beginning, that this was a tough decision, it would be painful, them, 11 straight quarters of double-digit revenue gains; earnings that have risen at but it was the right thing to do for the longevity of the brand. least 25 percent the last 12 quarters; 14 consecutive quarters of same-store sales growth, “Of course now, a few years later, with the full strategy implemented, we are com- and net profi ts that nearly doubled last year after quadrupling the year before. pletely refocused on the identity of the brand, to our roots and who we are,” said The brand that fl ew high in the Eighties Maurice Marciano. “Now our retail busi- and early Nineties on the back of a series ness has grown tremendously, and for the of famously sexy “Guess Girls” now cov- fi rst time this year, we are passing the $1 ers a multibrand portfolio that includes billion mark. Now, in hindsight, for every- Guess, Guess by Marciano, Marciano, body, we’re like a visionary. At the time, Guess Accessories and a brand-new retail we were the dumbest people on earth. format that will roll out in North America Now we’re a more exclusive brand. Not next year called G by Guess. only are the price points higher, but our The fi rst G by Guess store will debut markdown rate is lower.” in the fi rst half of 2007. Prices will be The lion’s share of Guess’s whole- between Guess stores and the factory sale business is done with Federated outlets, and the new brand is targeted to Department Stores through its compete with retailers such as Hollister, Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s divisions. said Paul Marciano, co-chairman and “We’re having a good season with co-chief executive offi cer of Guess Inc. them,” said Frank Doroff, senior ex- He said it will be geared to “young, sexy ecutive vice president and general mer- women,” ages 18 to 30. “It’s not as edgy chandise manager for ready-to-wear at as Guess,” added Maurice Marciano, co- Bloomingdale’s. “They’re beating their chairman and co-chief executive offi cer. plan, and they’re having a spectacu- By the end of 2007, some 30 G by Guess lar month.” Guess is a key resource for stores are slated to open. Some will be in Bloomingdale’s, and the stores are sell- prime locations and others in “B” malls. ing denim, sweaters and “going-out” tops G by Guess denim will retail between $44 really well. and $69, whereas Guess denim goes for In 2005, the company reported a 98.9 around $100. percent increase in profi tability with net These days, Guess has become a Wall earnings of $58.8 million, compared with Street darling. Guess shares hit a 52-week net earnings of $29.6 million in 2004. Total (and all-time) high of $57.20 on Oct. 13. net revenue for 2005 jumped 28.4 percent to Back in January 2003, the stock was trad- $936.1 million from $729.3 million in 2004. ing between $3 and $4. Increased volume of sales in its high- How did the 25-year-old company dra- margin European business, comparable matically turn around its ailing fortunes? store sales growth, a strong accessories The Marcianos, along with Carlos presentation, retail store expansion and Alberini, president and chief operating an improved product mix all contributed to offi cer, sat down with WWD at company the company’s favorable results last year. headquarters here last week to talk about As the company shifted its emphasis, the company’s transformation. the wholesale business shrank to 15.9 “Basically, it was our own analysis of the percent of its North American net rev- market [in 2000] and what was the future enues in 2006, from 46.6 percent in 2000. of our brand,” said Maurice Marciano. “At Retail now accounts for 84.1 percent of the time, I announced that not only for us the fi rm’s North American net revenue, but for any lifestyle brand, there will be no up from 53.4 percent in 2000. alternative [over the next fi ve to 10 years] Maurice Marciano said it’s a ratio he’s than to control your own distribution. For happy to keep, provided the wholesale us, we decided to focus on setting up our business remains healthy. “For us, it’s retail stores to be completely in control of very simple: We will support and sustain our own distribution.” the wholesale business as long as it’s a As a brand, Guess was competing with good, feasible, sustainable business,” vertical retailers like Abercrombie & Fitch, he said. The North American wholesale said Marciano. “But we were fi ghting with business returned to profitability last them through our wholesale customers. It’s year, earning $7.3 million on revenues of like going in an arena fi ghting a very fi erce $121 million. competitor but with one hand behind my Going forward, Guess executives be- back,” he said. Since he couldn’t control lieve the company’s own retail operations what was happening on the selling fl oor of will grow at a faster rate than wholesale, the department stores — where there was and international expansion is where the excessive promotional activity, markdowns, spotlight is now. Paul and Maurice Marciano at their headquarters last week. returns and charge-backs — he said he was TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY As a result of its move into retailing, at a distinct disadvantage. Guess beefed up its employee ranks con- “That’s why I said we couldn’t continue siderably. Previously, the company em- like that and had to have our own retail distribution. It was painful for the fi rst two ployed two buyers, one for men’s and one for women’s. Today, it has between 80 and and a half years,” said Maurice Marciano, refl ecting on the company’s poor fi nancial 100 people on its buying, planning and allocation teams. In addition, the company performance during 2001 and 2002. now has about 8,000 employees, up from 4,100 at the close of 2000. In 2001, Guess’s earnings fell 62 percent to $6.2 million, while net revenues de- Alberini said the company is in “an excellent inventory position” right now, and clined 13 percent to $677.6 million. (The fi rm’s wholesale division lost $11.2 million on since the business heads have gross margin accountability, they don’t have excess sales of $260 million.) In 2002, the company spilled red ink for the fi rst time, reporting inventory. “There’s an incentive to keep businesses in line with the plan,” he said. In an $11.3 million loss on net revenues of $583.1 million. (The wholesale division lost fact, both the wholesale and retail businesses provide virtually no excess product for $44.9 million on revenues of $159.6 million.) the company’s factory outlets, and Guess, like other brands, makes products specifi - “We owned 80 percent of the stock at that time, so we felt the pain,” added Paul cally for them, he said. “The outlets are very profi table,” he said. Marciano. Of the company’s 330 units in North America, 102 are outlets, 193 are Guess stores, “If it [the business model] didn’t change to retail, we wouldn’t have been in busi- 20 are Marciano stores and 15 are Guess Accessory units. There are presently 376 ness today,” admitted Maurice Marciano. stores internationally. By yearend, the company plans to have 750 stores operating Not only did Guess wish to control its own destiny, but it needed to go back to its globally, and by the end of 2007, Guess projects 893 stores. fashion roots. At the time, the brand was situated in the status jeans areas of depart- Perhaps the brand’s most signifi cant move was the acquisition in January 2005 ment stores, competing with Polo Jeans, CK Jeans, Tommy Jeans and DKNY Jeans. of its European jeanswear business, which has given it a signifi cant platform from WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 9 WWD.COM Gambit Pays Off

Tori Praver Praver in Guess’ in the 2006 holiday 2006 lingerie campaign. launch campaign.

A rendering of the G by Guess store.

which to expand its European operations. The majority ment and sourcing for Nine West Group. The fi rst Guess of Guess’ European business is presently done through Footwear line launched for fall 2005, and the footwear wholesale accounts in Italy, France and Spain. The business has already doubled in the fi rst year. Paul company sees major opportunities for expansion in the Marciano said next year it plans to test Guess Footwear United Kingdom, Germany, Scandinavia and Eastern stores, opening one store each in North America, Italy Europe. “Our name was underexposed, and we were and China. If they are successful, it could become a 200- underpenetrated [internationally],” said Alberini. store chain, he said. A snapshot of Guess’s current operation reveals that Licensed accessory-only stores have also been open- North American business accounts for 76.7 percent, or ing at a fast clip. Guess Accessories opened 51 stores $792 million in revenues and $89.2 million in earnings; in 2005 and is on plan to open 40 more this year and Europe generates 18 percent, or $185.3 million in rev- another 50 in 2007. Paul Marciano attributed the global enues and $36 million in earnings, and global licensing store expansion to the strength of the Guess brand and brings in 5.2 percent, or $55 million in revenues and its relationships with its licensees. For example, Guess $45.1 million in earnings. Operating margins are much has had its Guess handbag license with Signal Products higher on the European business: 19.4 percent versus for 16 years and its watch license with Callanen for 23 11.3 percent on the North American business. years. Guess handbags are experiencing 20 percent In Europe, Guess opened to 30 percent increases a 34 stores in 2005, and by the year, while Guess watches end of 2006 will have opened The Marciano are showing 20 percent an- another 33 new stores. Most store in the Forum nual increases, said Paul are licensed, although 21 of Shops at Caesars Marciano. the fi rm’s 376 international in Las Vegas. The Marciano brand, stores are owned by Guess, a contemporary brand in cities such as Paris, Rome, launched in 2004, is anoth- Milan, Florence, London and er growth vehicle for the Amsterdam. “We’ll be oppor- company. Priced about 40 tunistic again,” said Paul percent higher and more so- Marciano, adding that store phisticated than the Guess openings are set for Spain, product, the Marciano brand Paris and Rome. is only available in Marciano Asia represents anoth- and Guess stores. Currently, er growth opportunity for there are 20 Marciano stores Guess. The company has The Guess Accessories store in Dalian, China. in North America, and 10 a Hong Kong offi ce, where are expected to open next it shows both the U.S. and year. “We would like to open European product. The company currently has nine doors in China, 12 doors in South 100 stores in North America Korea and one door in Hong Kong. “China will continue to be a challenging market. over the next four years,” It’s not that easy to penetrate,” said Alberini. On its own, Guess plans to open four said Paul Marciano. stores by February in Shanghai, Beijing, Macao and Hong Kong. Guess recently ac- Analysts have given high quired its South Korean license, effective at the end of 2006. In India, it opened 10 marks to Guess’s strategies. licensed stores in 2005 and 15 this year. “It’s an incredible turn- The company has also entered a joint venture in Mexico with Grupo Axo, which has around,” said Eric Beder, worked with brands such as Coach, DKNY and Tommy Hilfi ger in the Mexican market. analyst with Brean Murray, The plan is to open three stores and 15 shop-in-shops by yearend. By the end of 2008, Carret & Co. “This company Guess expects to have 15 freestanding stores and 75 shop-in-shops in Mexico. was almost dead in 2001. One of the strategies is to align the North American and European lines, so 50 per- It wasn’t fashion-relevant. cent of the “core” merchandise is exactly the same, and the rest is geared to specifi c They brought in experi- markets. The move, which becomes effective in fall 2007, is expected to give the com- enced management to add pany better leverage and a reduction in development costs. Currently, Guess develops discipline elements to the a full line for North America and a full line for Europe. company.” He said the com- “We see a big opportunity to bring these two lines together. There is a core assort- pany’s increases are “pretty ment that can satisfy the needs of both markets,” said Alberini. sustainable going forward.” He explained that the company has two full teams of designers in the U.S. and “Guess becomes rediscovered every four or fi ve years. It’s a company that went Europe. He said that if, for example, each team is producing 700 styles, it would be much from a totally merchant-driven organization” to putting in more systems, according to more effi cient if they could produce 1,000 together. Another advantage is sourcing. Guess Beder. He said a unifi ed European and U.S. line won’t happen overnight, but eventu- opened an offi ce in Hong Kong a year and a half ago, “and it’s getting close to break-even ally they’ll be able to maximize the gains of owning both divisions. “It’s a long-term in pushing volume through the offi ce. The goal is to move more volume through that of- proposition. This way they can be more fashion-relevant.” fi ce. The opportunities for cost reductions are pretty signifi cant,” he added. Christine Chen, an analyst with Pacifi c Growth Equities and a Guess stockholder, Alberini noted that in the European market, the brand is positioned at a much said, “The talent of the Marcianos is their ability to create sex appeal and demand.” higher level than the U.S. since the sensitivity to pricing is less in Europe than in the She said it was a key move to hire Alberini to focus on the operations side of the busi- U.S. Distribution in Europe is more fragmented and in more specialty stores, whereas ness “He’s focused on all the stuff that isn’t the merchandise. He’s very focused on in the U.S., Guess is distributed mainly in department stores. In the U.S., Guess has making the business more effi cient. He complements what the Marcianos are doing. successfully pushed the prices up at its own retail stores as well as in department That’s why their margins are expanding hugely as well.” stores, said Alberini. Meantime, the Marcianos aren’t taking their newfound success for granted. “I al- Much of Guess’s success over the past few years can be attributed to its numerous ways try and anticipate the unknown,” said Paul Marciano. “When things go well, licensees, and that business is targeted for substantial growth. Last year, the com- that’s when you worry.” pany signed a footwear license with Mark Fisher, former president, product develop- “Complacency is a killer,” added Maurice Marciano. 10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM

Burt Tansky with Michael Kors.

Karolina Kurkova in Stefano Pilati with Julianne Carolina Marchesa. Moore in Yves Saint Laurent. Herrera Harvey Weinstein with Sienna Miller in The Vision Thing Marchesa. NEW YORK — “The Night of Stars” was no misnomer as the Fashion Group International held its annual celebrity- packed awards Thursday night, sending flashbulbs into a frenzy outside Cipriani 42nd Street. “Oh my God, another red carpet,” sighed Mischa Barton, in a daze from the mayhem outside. “I can’t see anything.” Shame for her, because there was much to see, from Gwyneth Paltrow, Julianne Moore, Emmy Rossum and Anne Hathaway to honorees such as Carolina Herrera, Stefano Pilati, Consuelo Castiglione, Rachel Zoe and Aerin Lauder. Moore, who presented Pilati with his award, teetered onstage in sky- high purple Yves Saint Laurent heels. “I had to walk slowly and very carefully onto the stage, because I had my four-year- old daughter pick out my shoes tonight,” she explained. “Of course, she picked out the highest pair.” Others wore surprisingly comfortable ensembles, especially Michele Barouh, creative director of Michele Watches & Jewelry, who is expecting a baby in March. “I don’t think Galliano knew he did maternity until now,” she joked of the black John Galliano gown she was wearing. As usual, though, emcee Simon Doonan was the real joker of the night. The evening was themed “The Visionaries,” as, he explained, “someone who has visions, someone who sees things which are not there — in other words, someone who is totally bonkers.” Anne Hathaway in Doonan was not short of his own visions, either, spinning the Marchesa at BG. evening’s best story about superstar honoree Burt Tansky. “Burt and I used to share an apartment in Haight Ashbury back in ’67,” he announced. “Burt was in this interpretive dance troupe. Every morning, Burt would slip into his leotard, drop some acid and head to Golden Gate Park. While Burt was fl itting about and having Gwyneth visions, I had to stay behind in our pad and do a bit of weaving and Paltrow play the dulcimer and rinse out yesterday’s leotards.” Georgina in vintage “You swore you’d never tell anyone about our relationship,” the Chapman Yves Saint Neiman Marcus president and chief executive retorted in accepting his

and Keren Laurent. ▼ award. “My life has never been the same since we broke up.” Craig, The night before, Sienna Miller helped celebrate the second both in anniversary of Marchesa, the line designed by her friends Georgina their own Chapman and Keren Craig. The “Factory Girl” star trotted around designs. BG restaurant at Bergdorf Goodman in a Marchesa top-turned-dress before the fi lm’s producer, Harvey Weinstein, pulled her aside for an intense tête-à-tête. Meanwhile, co-hosts Lauren Davis and Zoe fl itted between their guests, including Hathaway, Karolina Kurkova, Fiona Scarry and Helena Christensen. Sophie Dahl, on a break from putting the fi nishing touches on her fi rst full-length novel, cracked, “It was like giving birth to an elephant.” Weinstein, for his part, was doing his best not to look like one. “I quit smoking a year ago and gained 35 pounds. I’m now on a diet that means I can’t eat after 6 o’clock,” he explained. Nor was quitting very easy. “For the fi rst six months I would be captivated by women — not because of how they looked, but if they smoked I’d just say, ‘Breath on me,’ ” he said, prompting a giggly Miller to light up and blow smoke in his face. Chapman, meanwhile, had her mind on other matters — especially the work being done on her and Weinstein’s new house downtown. “I thought I’d surprise the builders and popped round there the other day,” she said. “First of all, I learned never to surprise the builders because they weren’t there and, secondly, I realized that they’d knocked down the wrong wall.” She could have used the many experts who stopped by the party that Hamish Bowles and interior designer Nancy Corzine hosted earlier in the evening for the recently published Vogue Living magazine at Corzine’s plush Museum Tower pad. Carolyn Roehm and Celerie Kemble, among others, joined Alex Kramer, Amanda Brooks and Marielle Safra to toast the new tome. Sharp eyes can catch Bowles on-screen, in full courtier costume, in “Marie Antoinette.” Mischa Barton in Carolyn Alex Kramer and But don’t expect him to desert 4 Times Square for Hollywood Bebe with Rachel Roehm Carlos Miele anytime soon, though he did enjoy his time on set. “I have to say, my Zoe in Valentino.

favorite part was when they powdered our wigs,” he admitted. STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 11 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Trade Shows Ante Up in Las Vegas

By Karyn Monget hold Lingerie Americas Las Vegas twice annually. The dates for February 2008 will be announced after we have conducted a study and found the best possible dates for GET READY FOR A LINGERIE SMACK-DOWN IN LAS VEGAS. the industry to meet in Las Vegas.” Organizers of the four-year-old Lingerie Americas trade show plan to stage the fi rst Argain added that results of “extensive research” among retailers in North America Lingerie Americas Las Vegas fair in August, while Jean-Luc and Laurence Teinturier, indicated a need for a “high-level” lingerie event in the West, primarily Las Vegas. There former show managers of Lingerie Americas, have scheduled two trade venues called currently is a Lingerie Boutique show that runs concurrently with fashion week in Los Curvexpo to run in February and August. Angeles at the California Mart and the Lingerie Classique fair in Las Vegas, which is pro- The August edition will pit Curvexpo and French-owned-and-operated Lingerie duced by Specialty Trade Shows Inc. and focuses on provocative lingerie and sex toys. Americas Las Vegas against each other for exhibitors, retailers and real estate at what is expected to be the same location: the Venetian Hotel Resort. Curvexpo, which will also feature swimwear, is slated to take place Aug. 26 to 28, while Lingerie Americas Las Vegas is scheduled for Aug. 27 to 29, according to the There are 950 fl ights a day, including 117 direct shows’ organizers. The fi rst Curvexpo edition will be staged Feb. 13-15. It will encom- “ pass 25,000 square feet and will expand to 45,000 square feet for the second edition. fl ights from cities including London, Tokyo and The fi rst Lingerie Americas Las Vegas fair will take up 45,000 square feet. Regarding location for the separate shows at the Venetian, Laurence Teinturier Shanghai. The average cost of a roundtrip domestic said Curvexpo will be held in the Grand Ballroom, while a spokesman for Lingerie Americas said the company was not yet ready to release details. However, Lauren fl ight is $200, and there are 130,000 hotel rooms. Larsen, senior national sales manager at the Venetian, said, “Neither of those [linge- rie] groups have been confi rmed yet, so I can’t say exactly where they will be. I know Besides, it’s a fun place to work. they desperately want to be in our building, and they are negotiating with sharing ” space with an existing client. We are still working on it.” — Laurence Teinturier, Curvexpo Inc. In addition to a desire for the same location, the competing shows share several other common elements: A good deal of marketing research was also conducted by the Teinturiers, who had ● Timing will coincide with the MAGIC Marketplace consortium of trade shows managed the Lingerie Americas venue in New York since its inception in August 2002. and the ASAP Show for global sourcing. In four years, Lingerie Americas’ exhibitor roster grew from 75 brands to 270. The ● The target audience will be retailers from the West Coast, as well as the Midwest, duo created Curvexpo Inc., based in Riverside, Conn., this month. Southeast and Canada. “A combined 140,000 apparel buyers are expected between Feb. 11 and Feb. 16, ● Medium- to high-end brands ranging from department store labels to fashion and we estimate there are approximately 6,620 intimate apparel retailers from the names will be in the spotlight. West Coast, Midwest, Canada and Southeast who would want to attend our show,” said ● The fairs will be supported by a marketing campaign, mailings, newsletters and Laurence Teinturier. “There are 950 fl ights a day, including 117 direct fl ights from cit- trade advertising. ies including London, Tokyo and Shanghai. The average cost of a round-trip domestic A rift between lingerie trade show producers is not uncommon. In 2002, German trade fl ight is $200, and there are 130,000 hotel rooms. Besides, it’s a fun place to work.” show giant Messe Frankfurt acquired the Intimate Apparel Salon, which was later renamed She said that Curvexpo will return to the same location in August 2007 to present Intima America. A battle developed between Lingerie Americas and Intima America over spring-summer 2008 collections, which will be followed by four already-scheduled amenities and transportation problems for retailers who wanted to visit both shows but sessions in 2008 and 2009. were limited by logistics and time constraints. Intima America was discontinued in 2004. “We’ve discovered that trade shows in Las Vegas typically attract more people than Lingerie Americas offi cials could not be reached for comment on the competing any other destination,” Jean-Luc Teinturier added. “The incentive we’ll offer is we’ll shows, but in a statement, Patrice Argain, chief executive offi cer, said, “Our goal is to put a lot in the promotion. We want exhibitors to get a return on their investment.”

Cosabella’s viscose Josie Natori’s Mary Green’s and spandex cami embroidered sheer net with a built-in bra. silk top with camisole and an Only Hearts’ laced-edged nylon and slip, in silk. spandex slip. COM

NEW YORK — Spring’s lingerie palette has a tropical bent with shades such as melon and parakeet green. There are silk slips and tulle or cotton knit camisoles that can be Top Notch worn with half-slips and serve as accents for the season’s tailored jackets. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: J0/ELITE; HAIR BY JACQUELINE BUSH, MAKEUP BY MICHELE YURAS, BOTH FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO. MICHELE YURAS, JACQUELINE BUSH, MAKEUP THOMAS BY IANNACCONE; MODEL: J0/ELITE; HAIR BY PHOTO BY 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM Accessories Report Accessory Network Pushes Prestige

By Jennifer Hirshlag “When we acquired LeSportsac, we evaluated our Michele Ateyeh portfolio of brands and considered the possibility of NEW YORK — Accessory Network Group is giving the luxury and Abe Chehebar divesting the Ghurka brand,” said Chehebar. “It had segment a more prominent role as it positions itself as a key a very different model for production from our other player at both ends of the price spectrum. brands. But through the process of analyzing it, the The privately held branded accessories manufacturer has growth potential of the brand became more clear. We hired Michele Ateyeh, who is better known by her nickname had so many companies interested in purchasing it, but “Mickey,” to become president of its prestige brands division. we realized if we had the right leader we could grow its It’s a fi rst step in what ANG chairman and chief executive of- profi le.” fi cer Abe Chehebar said is the fi rm’s goal to move full steam Ateyeh, who will begin her role at ANG on Wednesday, ahead in the higher-end segment, which includes its wholly was most recently president and chief operating offi cer owned luxury brand Ghurka, as well as the Calvin Klein and of Lambertson Truex, where she helped the indepen- Isaac Mizrahi licenses. dent luxury handbag fi rm improve its infrastructure and “We found that the prestige area is developing, and we be- achieve other goals, which included outside investment. lieve we are beginning to put the infrastructure in place to Luggage maker Samsonite acquired a majority stake in make us more effi cient in this area,” said Chehebar. “Right Lambertson Truex in July, and Ateyeh transitioned into now, the prestige area represents a small percentage of busi- a consulting role at the fi rm, which has now ended. Prior ness for the fi rm, but we believe it could account for 50 percent to working at Lambertson Truex, Ateyeh was principal, incremental top-line growth in the next few years. Mickey’s role president and ceo of Angela Cummings Fine Jewelry. She is to lead it, and that could include acquiring additional has also held positions at Hermès and Tiffany & Co. brands if there’s a fi t and an untapped niche, although “It will be a tremendous opportunity for me to man- there’s no clock ticking right now to do a deal.” age these prestige brands and work with the independent Industry sources have estimated ANG’s worth at teams for each of these brands,” said Ateyeh. “The recog- $200 million. Left: A spring look nition and respect that these prestigious brands have in Chehebar’s announcement comes on the heels of from Calvin Klein. the marketplace create a tremendous platform for growth speculation that ANG was preparing to seek a sale of Below: Ghurka’s through creativity and effective execution.” Ghurka, which it purchased through its affi liate Vergier Highlander bag. Chehebar hired John Bartlett last year to de- Holdings in 2003. In July, Chehebar said ANG had re- sign Ghurka. Bartlett’s fi rst collection for Ghurka of tained Financo to consider strategic alternatives for men’s accessories hit its four stores this fall to strong response. the brand, following ANG’s acquisition of LeSportsac in Chehebar said sales are up 19 percent over last year. Bartlett’s February for a reported $100 million. women’s line is set to debut at retail next month, and Chehebar ANG had also signed a license in 2005 to produce believes it has potential for growth. He also anticipates better handbags and cold-weather goods for Calvin JOHN CALABRESE KLEIN PHOTOS BY PORTRAIT, boosting Ghurka’s retail network, opening it up to whole- Klein. In May, the fi rm announced a partnership with sale again and exploring new categories at the brand, like Isaac Mizrahi to create a line of bridge handbags under outerwear, footwear and a fragrance. the Isaac Isaac Mizrahi label that will debut at the “When we acquired Ghurka and began working with November accessories market. ANG, through its ani- brands like Calvin Klein, people would say to us, ‘Well, mations division, also works on several licenses for ac- you’re a mass company, and what do you know about lux- cessories for entertainment companies, including Walt Disney, Warner Bros. and ury?’ ” said Chehebar. “We moved quickly to put a good Nickelodeon and owns a hosiery division, Planet Sox. team in place at all the brands, like hiring John Bartlett, Soon after Financo was hired regarding Ghurka, Kenneth Landis, interim ceo and in a very short time we learned. That’s something we of LeSportsac and Ghurka, chief operating offi cer of ANG and executive vice pres- will continue to emphasize. ident of its luxury division — the former designation of the prestige area — re- “We’re one of the few companies who are able to do signed. Steve Jacaruso, former chief operating offi cer and chief fi nancial offi cer of a luxury brand like Ghurka and then [a] private label LeSportsac, became president of LeSportsac. Landis’ other roles remained open. for Target. And having all these brands together, it’s very Chehebar considers Ateyeh’s appointment at the fi rm to be a new position. strong fi repower.”

wholesaler. “We’ve created the business together, and I’ve been very lucky.” Ong’s Jewels Featured in ‘Exquisite’ Exhibit Ong said one of her main priorities when crafting her jewelry, aside from beauty and fl ow, is comfort, which is one reason why she works with titanium. She considers By Samantha Conti diamonds, a body made from platinum and titanium, it a compliment when her clients don a necklace, and by and a fl exible tail made from brown diamonds. the end of an evening, forget they have it on. ichelle Ong’s world is filled with sensual delights, “It’s a big piece, but light enough to pin it on a silk She’s also fi nicky about the shape of her stones. Msuch as ripe mandarin oranges, swaying palm blouse,” said Ong. Even when she and Nagar buy cut and polished dia- trees and fragile, trembling anemones. Her lightweight butterfl y brooches can be worn monds, she often has her team of artisans recut them These natural wonders aren’t real, but are at the waist, the shoulder or even in a chignon. to her specifi cations. created by Ong in her jewelry workshop in “Jewelry has to breathe, fl ow and have “I actually employ a full-time cutter,” said Ong. “As Hong Kong, using colored diamonds, pre- life,” said Ong. “It can’t be static. And, most far as I’m concerned, there are no shortcuts to creat- cious gems, white gold and titanium for important, you have to have fun with it. It ing what I want.” her 20-year-old line, called Carnet. does not belong in the safe.” Joel Rosenthal, the designer behind JAR with whom For the fi rst time, the public will see Whimsy works its way into many of Ong has often been compared, calls her jewels “mouth- Ong’s most important works at an exhibi- Ong’s designs. Her fi re-breathing dragons watering.” In the introduction to the exhibition’s cat- tion called “Exquisite Jewels: The Art of — two mirror-image brooches made from alogue, he wrote, “Michelle Ong’s power ignores the Carnet by Michelle Ong,” which runs until diamonds, rubies and emeralds on a tita- rules of machines, of numbers, of today, bringing us a Dec. 10 at the Burrell Collection in Glasgow. nium and platinum base — come with tiny, beauty so near it is here in our hand.” Ong, a mother of three, has no formal individual “fl ame” brooches. Celebrities who have worn Carnet jewels on the red training as a jeweler. She started creating “You can pin the fl ames wherever you want, carpet include Kate Winslet, Jennifer Garner, Glenn her naturalistic designs, which sell for up to coming out of one dragon’s mouth or both,” she Close and Teri Hatcher. Ong also created the fl eur-de-lis $1 million, as a hobby while working in the Carnet’s tourmaline said. cross key and platinum brooch for “The Da Vinci Code.” wholesale diamond business. peach brooch. Her Dancing Anemone Ong and Nagar have no plans to wholesale any part “I was working for a family friend in Hong brooch is made from of the collection. There is currently one Carnet shop Kong, learning about stones but itching to do some- diamond, tsavorite and colored in Hong Kong, in Charter House, and thing else. Plus, I couldn’t fi nd any jewelry to wear stones, with a gumdrop-sized em- Carnet’s black another one is set to open in December out to a party,” said Ong, who was in London earlier erald tremblant in the center. lace butterfl y in Hong Kong’s Prince’s Building. this month to promote the exhibition that kicked off Ong, a Hong Kong native who brooch. Ong also holds private appointments Saturday. Because I have no formal training, I have no has a degree in sociology from the with clients in the Far East and con- fear. I never think inside the box. I just fi nd ways to University of Toronto, is no relation ducts private sales worldwide. make what I want.” to Ong Beng Seng and Christina Ong “This will never be a mass Some 100 pieces of Ong’s work from her two de- of Singapore, the fashion retailers. collection,” said Nagar, add- cades in the business will be on display, many of which She said she sees her jewelry as ing that prices range from are on loan from customers. The show features her a personal expression and almost about $3,000 for gold and pieces for day, including diamond and white gold hoop can’t believe her hobby has turned diamond hoop earrings to $1 earrings and white gold, silver and diamond bangles, into a career. “I still see jewelry as million for the large, colored as well as her more extravagant looks for evening. an art form, not a commodity and not a diamond pieces. There is the twin mandarin orange brooch, with the business,” Ong said. Ong’s next designs also belong to fruit made from intense and fancy yellow diamonds Like so many artists, Ong admits she’s not the the natural world. But this time around, and the leaves fashioned from white, rose-cut dia- most practical person. “I don’t even know how to get she’s leaving terra fi rma and looking sky- monds, and a pair of palm trees, with fl exible trunks into the offi ce or how to open the safe. Avi takes care ward. made from white and brown rose-cut diamonds. of all that,” she said, referring to her longtime busi- “I’m thinking about clouds,” said Ong. “Just look at A dragonfl y brooch has wings fashioned from white ness partner, Avi Nagar, a Hong Kong-based diamond them. Their shapes are endless and ever-changing.”

14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006

Accessories Cross Writes Its Next Chapter Rolex Takes Time to Honor By Sophia Chabbott stores in the U.S. as testing grounds for the product and a newly designed display of its traditional pen Entertainers at Dance Event ALTHOUGH U.S. PRESIDENTS OF THE PAST AND and desk accessories assortment. The stores — loca- present have chosen to use Cross pens, they make up a tions have not been determined, although malls in uests had their dancing shoes on and were ready to rather small customer base. the Midwest and Southwest have been mentioned Ggo last week at “One World, A Spectacular Global So the 160-year-old company famous for its writing — will average 700 square feet and are projected Celebration,” hosted by Rolex. instruments is trying to extend its reach to fashion- to each bring in upward of $500,000 in fi rst-year The entertainment and dance event started with savvy consumers. sales. Cross has two stores in Boston that performances and awards at City Center, where Liza After numerous market research tests, Cross, a $110 opened in 2004. Minnelli presented Broadway star Chita Rivera with million fi rm based in Lincoln, R.I., wants to acces- “We’re using the stores as retail lab- the Rolex Dance Award. Rivera received one of the sorize professional women with oratories,” said Robin Boss Dorman, fi rm’s signature watches and regaled the audience tote bags, laptop holders, agen- vice president of corporate develop- with a story of how she lost her own Rolex, not once, das and fashion watches, in ad- ment, who added that there are no but three times. dition to stylized pens in sea- plans for a more comprehensive re- “I love watches,” Rivera said. “They sonal prints. The company had tail rollout. “The things that we’re have my favorite numbers: 5, 6, 7, 8.” a soft launch of bags, watches testing are more fashionable.” The Rudolf Nureyev Dance and other small leather goods A Cross Product extensions made up Foundation received an award for fall. It is expanding for watch. less than 1 percent of sales in 2005 for outstanding contributions to spring, with watches featuring and now take up 7 percent of the the world of dance from Career turquoise and magenta leather business, Dorman said. Next year, prod- Transition for Dancers, which has straps and sedate but current- uct extensions will constitute 10 percent helped 3,200 dancers identify their looking totes and laptop cases, of the business, which competes with pen talents when dance is no longer an all with redesigned packaging fi rms like Montblanc and Waterman. option because of retirement. to modernize the brand. “The brand umbrella can cover a lot “I’ve been doing this for so many There are eight handbag of product categories,” Boss Dorman years,” said Patricia Kennedy, who styles ranging in retail price Cross’ store in Harvard Square. said. was co-host of the 21st annual event from $150 to $295. Watches re- The fi rm is also contemplating men’s along with Anka K. Palitz. “It’s always Patricia Kennedy tail on average for $175. jewelry and eyewear. Cross products so exciting.” and Eric Lewis PHOTO BY CHRISTIAN GRATTON PHOTO BY “The key to the whole thing is to get people to buy are sold in 2,000 U.S. doors, including select Nordstrom Actor James Earl Jones, jazz mu- our products more frequently,” said Chad Mellen, and Macy’s units, as well as independent stores. sician Eric Lewis, the American Ballet Theatre and vice president of global marketing. “We’re not trying Internationally, the fi rm is in 3,000 doors through- others performed, followed by a dinner and auction at to sell fashion handbags, but a professional woman out Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Starting next the New York Hilton. who has style has never had a choice. Now, we’re giv- month, Cross is bowing 37 newly designed in-store Jeweler Aaron Basha bid $100,000 for a vacation on ing her a choice.” shops in retailers such as Selfridges and Harrods in a private yacht in the auction that raised $1.21 million To bring a fashion edge to the pen category, the fi rm London, along with locations in specialty stores in for Career Transition for Dancers. last year called on accessories designer Rafé Totengco Belgium and Denmark. “This night was so gorgeous, the spirit, everything to design a pen collection featuring prints. This spring, “There will always be an aspect of heritage to was gorgeous,’’ said entertainer Bebe Neuwirth be- the company is launching pen sets with a modern fl o- Cross,” said Dorman, whose family helped found the fore heading off to dance the night away. “I look up to ral print and will roll out stationery and notebook sets company. “We’d like to be growing in double digits, Rudolf Nureyev and Chita Rivera.” to match. and my expectation is that [accessories] will grow at a — S.C. In addition, the company will open three to fi ve faster rate than our writing instrument growth.” WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 15 WWD.COM China Fair Draws International Crowd By Vicki Rothrock To meet rising demand for swim- swimwear pavilion, it was easy to point the China market, but it is “waiting for wear — China shipped 70 percent of the out the differences in quality and work- the chance” because the country doesn’t HONG KONG — The China Sourcing Fair: world’s total last year — the fair added manship between booths, Chong said. have “fashionable boots…only solid col- Fashion Accessories staged its second an underwear and swimwear pavilion. “Buyers who see more stylish product ors.” Clients include Marks & Spencer show at the Asia World Expo with a 50 Representatives from Hong Kong’s and want cheap prices don’t even stop and Tesco. percent increase in exhibitors. Grandland Corp. attended for the fi rst by” Grandland’s booth, he said, adding Another company that came back There were 750 booths in two halls time and registered for the 2007 April that competitors from China offer cheap- because of good business the fi rst time with suppliers from China, Hong Kong, and October shows. This is the only fair er fare that might cater to Asian coun- was Beina, a Hong Kong company spe- Taiwan and India. The show logged that’s this specialized, said managing di- tries such as the Philippines, as well as cializing in high-end silk neckties and 12,975 buyers, an almost 30 percent in- rector Derick Chong. South America and Mexico. accessories mainly for the European crease over the April edition. Grandland’s products are split be- Shanghai Diyang Import & Export market. “We tried to identify a time convenient tween swimwear and women’s lingerie, signed up for this fair after business was “We can attract more buyers” at a spe- for buyers,” said Merle Hinrichs, chair- which are exported mostly to the U.K. good at the fi rst show, said Francis Wu, cialized fair, said Leo Man, the general man and chief executive offi cer of orga- and Australia, with some business in who works in sales for the rubber boot manager. Some customers who didn’t buy nizer Global Sources. the U.S. Target Stores and British Home company that makes colorful, stylish the fi rst time showed interest in their The Fashion Accessories fair runs just Store are among its clients. Wellingtons for all ages. products when they saw them at the fash- before the huge, all-inclusive Canton Fair, Sitting within the underwear and Wu said the company wants to develop ion accessories fair again, he added. which is celebrating its 100th edi- tion this year and started Oct. 15. The Fashion Accessories fair ran Oct. 11 to 14. The event included handbags, fashion jewelry, footwear, hats, umbrellas, belts, sunglasses and luggage, with an emphasis on China sourcing. The country ex- ported $796 million in hats and caps in the fi rst seven months of the year, a 21 percent jump, while exports of sunglasses brought in $350 million in the same period, up 36 percent com- pared with the previous year. With those numbers, the fair proved a draw for buyers from fi rms such as Carrefour, Esprit, Gap, Li & Fung and Triumph International. Buyers are setting the stan- dard and making fashion, said Christopher Sellers, ceo at Agentrics, which represents 250 members, including 17 of the world’s top 25 retailers, of- fering sourcing, supply chain collaboration, global data syn- chronization and product life- cycle management. “The trends in…the latest fash- ion are being decided right here” at the accessories fair, he said, add- ing that many of Agentrics’ retail customers attended the fi rst show, as well as the most recent one. FINDINGS CLUB MONACO IN THE SHADES: Club Monaco is adding eyewear to its accessories assortment. The retailer, which is owned by Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., has signed a licensing agreement with Luxottica Group’s U.S. subsidiary for a collection of sunglasses and ophthalmics that will bow this summer. The collection will retail in select Club Monaco stores throughout North America and may be distributed through wholesale, as well. In Club Monaco’s stores, it will be marketed alongside the retailer’s growing accessories range, which includes handbags, belts, jewelry and cold-weather goods. The accessories have been upgraded over the last few seasons with higher price points and luxury touches such as Italian leathers and fur. The agreement for eyewear follows one the Polo Ralph Lauren brand signed with Luxottica in February. Polo’s THE LEATHER HANDBAG COLLECTION fi rst collection with Luxottica is expected to be available 34 West 33rd Street, 10th Floor, New York City 10001 Tel. 212.239.1888 Fax 212.239.0432 early next year. 16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM ACE Awards Preview Honoring 10 Years of Accessories Excellence

THE ACCESSORIES COUNCIL WANTS ITS PARTY tonight at Cipriani 42nd Street in Manhattan to be about Oscar de la Renta and paying homage to the winners of the organization’s an- Jessica Simpson at the nual Accessories Council Excellence awards. ACE awards in 2005. But the New York-based industry advocate group will also be lauding itself. This will be the event’s 10th an- niversary and the guest list promises to deliver a fi tting celebration. Nancy O’Dell of “Access Hollywood” will emcee the event, featuring honorees such as Jennifer Lopez, Tom Ford and Michael Kors; presenters including Naomi Watts, Zac Posen, Narciso Rodriguez, Zoe R. Cassavetes and Carson Kressley, and some 650 other guests. “We’re sold out,” said Karen Giberson, president of the Accessories Council. “It turned out to be the hot ticket in town. We’ve been going through the guest list and it’s such an impressive group of people, from celebrities to de- signers, retailers, editors and models. Especially because it is the 10th anni- The ACE versary, it’s great knowing we are going award to have a full room.” created Lopez is to take home the ACE Award, by Leiber. while Kors is getting Designer of the Year. Naomi Campbell, Ford will be cited for Accessory Brand Karen Giberson and Launch, Fendi for Brand of the Year and Sean “Diddy” Combs Coach for Fashion Innovator. Retailers Bergdorf in 2005. Goodman and Solstice Sunglass Boutique also will receive prizes for Retailer of the Year and Specialty Store of the Year, respectively. Other winners include Rachel Zoe for Fashion Icon and O, The Oprah Magazine for Magazine of the Year. Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, will receive the Marylou Luther Journalism Award. “It’s not hard to come up with nominees,” Giberson said. “There’s a lot of really exciting stuff happening in accessories. But there is a lot of passion among the board over who should win.” Giberson said the Accessories Council started out with some 60 names before whittling down the list to the fi nal 10. To make the honors even more special as it enters its second decade, the council worked with the accessories fi rm Leiber to create a new award design. It is a large crystal minaudière with a sterling silver plaque on the inside. “The Oscar is an Oscar and an Emmy is an Emmy, and we needed a special ACE award,” Giberson said. “It’s a nice, substantial, heavy piece that can sit on a desk or shelf.” Giberson said although the 10th anniversary has made her nostalgic, she’s looking forward to the future. “In 10 years, the industry has changed a lot,” Giberson said. “Even when we were looking over the last year for an introductory video that we will show tonight, we real- ized we did a lot. But for me, it’s just the beginning of Rebecca Weinberg Field, great things to come.” Patricia Field, Cynthia Profiles of the year’s ACE award honorees run Carlos Falchi and Nixon, Kenneth Jay Lane and through page 22. Susan Sarandon in 2004. Brenda Cooper in 2000. — Jennifer Hirshlag

ACE Award: Jennifer Lopez A CONSUMMATE MULTITASKER, JENNIFER LOPEZ JUG- her unique sense of fashion and style to the accessories world.” gles the roles of actress, singer, producer and entrepreneur. Lopez’s star began rising when she received widespread Lopez is fi nishing her sixth album, a Spanish-language re- acclaim for her acting in the title role of “Selena” in 1997, cord, and has produced and starred in her next two fi lms, “El which brought her a Golden Globe nomination for best ac- Cantante” and “Bordertown.” But she is known in the fashion tress in a drama. Then Lopez — and her famous fi gure — went world as a style setter. on to garner praise for her role opposite George Clooney in In 2001, Lopez entered the fashion business with Andy Steven Soderbergh’s “Out of Sight.” In 2001, Lopez made his- Hilfi ger and established Sweetface Fashion Co., which now tory when she became the fi rst woman to have the number- has annual sales of $200 million and includes JLo by Jennifer one movie, “The Wedding Planner,” and number-one album, Lopez junior sportswear, outerwear, lingerie, footwear, watch- “J.Lo,” in the same week. es and jewelry, as well as the Sweetface contemporary collec- The actress, who got her show business break as a danc- tion and four fragrances. er on the TV show “In Living Color,” made her feature fi lm Though Lopez is often photographed wearing high-fashion debut in the acclaimed feature “Mi Familia.” Her other designs by Versace, Valentino, Lanvin and Louis Vuitton, ac- fi lm credits include Oliver Stone’s “U-Turn,” “Money Train” cented with jewelry by Fred Leighton, Harry Winston and Neil with Woody Harrelson and Wesley Snipes, Francis Ford Lane, she has managed to create an image to which her cus- Coppola’s “Jack” with Robin Williams, “Blood and Wine” op- tomers can relate. In her hit “Jenny From the Block,” Lopez, posite Jack Nicholson, Luis Mandoki’s “Angel Eyes,” Michael who is from The Bronx, sings, “Don’t be fooled by the rocks Apted’s thriller “Enough” and “Anaconda” with Jon Voight, that I got — I’m still Jenny from the block.” Eric Stoltz and Ice Cube. She most recently starred opposite Lopez grew up in modest circumstances. Robert Redford and Morgan Freeman in Lasse Hallström’s “It is often diffi cult to appeal to such a wide variety of con- “An Unfi nished Life.” Her production company, Nuyorican, sumers, but with Jennifer’s status as a modern-day style icon is in postproduction on three feature fi lms plus a reality-TV and her hands-on involvement, the JLo jewelry line accom- series for MTV called “Moves.” plishes such a feat,” said Gabrielle Fialkoff, vice president of Lopez also supports philanthropic endeavors, including Haskell Jewels, licensee of the JLo jewelry line, which retails Children’s Hospital Los Angeles, Make-A-Wish Foundation, from $18 to $85. “Mixing high fashion with street chic, the JLo Children’s Health Fund and Amnesty USA.org. Last year, she re- line brings fashion-forward design to the everyday consumer. ceived the Courage to Care Award for her work with CHLA. Jennifer Lopez

With Jennifer’s creative direction, we have been able to relay — Marcy Medina JIMI CELESTE PHOTO BY 1

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D ESIGNER OF THE Y EAR 18 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM ACE Awards Preview

Designer of the Year: Michael Kors Michael “A lot of designers are following the rigid old rules,” Kors MICHAEL KORS PROVED THIS YEAR THAT WHETHER Kors said. “They might look at rubber or plastic versus crocodile a woman is strolling to class at an Ivy League school, per- and think it’s not chic enough. But what keeps things inter- forming a pas de deux at ballet rehearsal or doing just esting is that rules are constantly changing. The customer about anything in between, she has little excuse to not be has been shopping from a mix of low and high items for a well accessorized. long time and it frees you up as a designer to think in those His collection presentations for fall 2006 and spring 2007, terms. For example, when you have ideas, whether it’s for a which were inspired by prepsters and dancers, respective- shoe or a handbag or an eyeglass, it might not necessarily fi t ly, featured an assortment of bags, belts, sunglasses, cold- in with the collection. But when you have all these different

weather goods, legwear and shoes that added polish to the JOHNNY NUNEZ/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY lines, it’s like pretending you’re a musician. ensembles and showed his intention to gain a foothold in “If a concept doesn’t work for one song, you can put it in a the lucrative accessories category, which is uncommon for different song,’’ he said. “Or you can look at a great idea and American designers. His bridge Kors Michael Kors sandals explore how it can be handled in different ways, one being and wedges and his range of better goods for the Michael a more pitched-up version with more intense materials, and Michael Kors line only expanded upon the statement. the other that’s fun and perhaps more throwaway.” In addition, the Michael Kors company opened its fi rst Retailers are setting their sights on the more pitched-up lifestyle store this year that focuses primarily on accesso- versions. At the close of New York Fashion Week last month, ries from all of its lines, with only an edited selection of many cited Kors’ collection presentation as one of the stron- ready-to-wear. The concept made its debut at NorthPark gest for accessories. Ed Burstell, senior vice president and Center in Dallas last summer, followed by an opening at general merchandise manager of beauty, jewelry and acces- The Westchester mall in White Plains, N.Y. sories at Bergdorf Goodman, praised Kors’ east-west totes, John D. Idol, Michael Kors’ chief executive offi cer, told while Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at WWD in August that the plan is to have 100 such stores by 2009, Henri Bendel, said she loved his barrel bag designs. boosting the accessories business, which opened with footwear in 2001 and now accounts All the positive feedback has not gone unnoticed by Kors, who said that even for 60 percent of the company’s total volume, to 75 to 80 percent. Industry sources have after 25 years in business, the recognition still means the world to him. “So many estimated that Michael Kors has a global wholesale volume of $250 million. people assume that designers that have ready-to-wear collections think of acces- “Before we had our own stores, you never got to see the assortment under one sories as an afterthought,” Kors said. “But I have always enjoyed working on ac- roof,” Kors said. “And now that we have that, it not only allows us to think about the cessories. I love leathers and I’m always in sunglasses. And, unlike when you are product and how delicious it is, but also how it will look as part of this whole story. designing clothes where you are limited by the body, with accessories the sky is It’s an extra checkpoint and I found that it’s really focused us.” really the limit. So it’s something we spend a huge amount of time on and a lot of It also has freed up Kors’ ability to play, especially with a mix of items that range effort. So it’s nice to be noticed for it.” from rubber fl ip-fl ops to a luxurious crocodile handbag. — Jennifer Hirshlag

Brand of the Year: Silvia Fendi for Fendi Accessory Brand Launch: To m Fo r d ONE OF KARL LAGERFELD’S FIRST DESIGNS FOR FENDI WAS A DRESS EYEWEAR IS OFTEN ONE OF for Silvia Venturini Fendi, who at the time was a primary school student. the last categories a designer Today, Venturini Fendi is the brand’s accessories director, appointed by building a brand launches, but not Lagerfeld in 1994. She also designs the men’s wear. for Tom Ford. The reclusive and soft-spoken blonde is the daughter of Anna Fendi and After departing as creative granddaughter of Fendi founders Adele and Edoardo Fendi. She is also the director of Gucci Group in 2004, driving force behind Fendi’s reputation for developing “It” bags. She works Ford returned to fashion by un- closely with Lagerfeld, who renewed his 40-year collaboration with the brand veiling an eponymous collection in May 2005, ending speculation of an imminent departure. of sunglasses. He called the move,

With such key fi gures fi rmly positioned in their roles and chief execu- which was accompanied by an an- STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY tive offi cer Michael Burke running the business side — he’s set on doubling nouncement that he would intro- the company’s volume within three to four years — Fendi keeps moving full duce a cosmetics and fragrance throttle ahead. line with the Estée Lauder Cos., a Fendi’s fi rst blockbuster style was the Baguette, a slim bag that tucks small leap back into the world in under the arm. The luxury company launched the style in 1997 and the buzz which he built his reputation. surrounding it turned Fendi’s accessories design studio into a hub for up- But the spring debut has made and-comers. Gucci’s Frida Giannini, for example, trained at the house. huge strides, putting Ford’s name Most recently, Fendi masterminded the Spy Bag, a soft shoulder style back on consumers’ lips. It has with double-braided handles, and the B Bag, featuring two patch pock- also carved out space at high- ets on its face that close with oversized buckles. B Bag fans include Reese end department stores such as Witherspoon, Tilda Swinton, Sharon Stone and Valentina Cervi. The B-buckle Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf motif has also been translated in Fendi sunglasses by Marchon and wide pat- Goodman, with Bergdorf ’s citing ent leather belts. the collection as one of its best- Since the summer of 2005, when Fendi launched the Spy Bag, some 74,000 piec- selling lines. es of the style have been sold, and its success inspired a revised version for this “I may be one of the fi rst de- fall that incorporates down and is the result of a cobranding project with Moncler. signers to do things backward,” The red, black or green bag will hit Fendi stores at the end of this month. Ford said of introducing the sun- Following the estimated $25 million remodeling of the Palazzo Fendi in glass collection, which is produced Rome in May 2005 that houses a new store concept, plus design ateliers and under a license with Marcolin offi ces, Fendi also launched the Palazzo bag for this fall. Eyewear. “But there were reasons. The clean-cut shoul- I was shell-shocked when I left der bag is available in Gucci and I wasn’t sure I wanted Tom fur, suede, calfskin, pat- to go back to fashion in a big way. Ford ent leather and logoed I loved eyewear and cosmetics, so canvas with gold piping I thought they would enable me to and the Palazzo Fendi take a small step back in that direc- effigy etched in the tion. And in the end, it took care of a lot of practical considerations for me, as well.” front. Actress Monica Those considerations have ranged from building up funding to launch additional Bellucci snapped it up products, which include his men’s wear line to roll out in April, to raising Ford’s immediately. profi le with a wider demographic. Accessories in gen- “Select people may know who I am from my work at Gucci,” Ford said. “But I’m eral account for 65 per- not sure everybody knows who Tom Ford is, which is important if you’re building cent of Fendi’s sales. a brand. And eyewear and cosmetics can reach a broader group of people because The house has also they are more accessibly priced.” coddled its big-screen The eyewear line also suits Ford’s creative side. Ford said even when he had a passion. In January, team of assistants helping him conceptualize pieces at Gucci, he always sketched the Silvia Fendi it hosted the opening designs for the eyewear himself, and he realized in retrospect that he missed it. ceremony of the Nastri “Even if it’s only an accessory, it’s a very potent accessory,” Ford said. “It’s like d’Argento, Italy’s main a car. It makes a statement about what design is at any given time. It’s sculptural in fi lm event in the newly remodeled Palazzo Fendi. that way.” At the same time, it established an award called Fendi Film — Talento The Tom Ford collection features women’s and men’s styles that offer bold in- 2005, aimed at putting rising stars on the fi lm industry’s radar. This summer, terpretations of classic silhouettes, like aviators and wayfarers. Luxurious touches it joined forces with Sharon Stone, who designed a luxury travel set for Fendi include discreet logo treatments at the temples and accents such as a gold metal for the amfAR charity auction. wire that highlights an acetate rim. Prices range from $220 to $500. An ophthalmics In October, Fendi participated in the fi rst edition of the Rome Film collection is also available. Festival by establishing the New Cinema Network, a monetary prize given to “When you start a company with your name on it, you are forced to fi gure out the emerging young director Santiago Tabernero. what you like,” Ford said. “When you are really doing anything that has to do with In September, Fendi extended its new store concept, which is airier and design, if you rely on your own taste, a character will evolve. And it’s been gratify- fresher than the old one, to a fl agship in Naples. On Nov. 18, it will also open ing to see that so far in eyewear, at least, that character has been responsible for the doors to a store inside the Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai, India. amazing sales, and such success and recognition.” — Alessandra Ilari — J.H. ;l[ho_iik[^WiWjb[Wij jmej^_d]i_dYecced0 Wf^[dec[dWbmecWd edj^[Yel[hWdZbejie\ <78KBEKI 799;IIEH?;I$

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Fashion Innovator: Coach Fashion Icon: Rachel Zoe COACH SPENT ITS 65TH YEAR IN BUSINESS NOT ONLY LOOKING BACK, BUT RACHEL ZOE, WHO STARTED AS A MAGAZINE EDITOR, HAS EVOLVED moving forward. into the go-to style adviser for a myriad of celebrities. In addition to opening fl agships in New York and Los Angeles late last year, She has received attention for transforming the looks of Lindsay Lohan, company president and executive creative director Reed Krakoff kept busy delving Nicole Richie and Maria Sharapova, highlighting her penchant for late- into the company’s rich design archives and making connections with young design Seventies attire and accessories. fi rms like Trovata and Lutz and Patmos — both of which helped maintain the buzz “A minimalist I am not,” said Zoe, who wears a variety of yellow gold jew- around the $2.2 billion Coach. elry, including a Cartier Roadster watch and several snake rings in gold and “We’ve had so many exciting things happen in the last 12 months,” said Krakoff, diamonds that complement her California tan. “Simple bores me. It’s the ac- naming the Legacy collection of handbags, footwear, cold-weather accessories and cessories that should excite an outfi t.” some outerwear inspired by the Sixties designs of Coach’s fi rst designer, Bonnie The accessories company Leiber tapped her to create a bag collection this Cashin, that launched this fall. fall. Zoe worked alongside Frank Zambrelli, creative director of the New York- “We were launching a new platform with the Legacy collection,” Krakoff said. based brand, to create two styles: the Medusa and the Cleopatra, a satchel and “It’s been really successful for us across the board in different ways. It created a a clutch, respectively, which are topped off with a heavy gold fob depicting two lot of excitement for the brand. There are new people coming into the brand and snakes coiled around a ring. The bags come in 12 color and skin variations, people who already love Coach are coming in for it.” including a siren-red snakeskin and matte-gold leather. This fall, the company dropped in select pieces of logo-driven fashion jewelry to round “It’s kind of bizarre,” Zoe said of designing accessories with her name on the out its offering, which already includes outerwear, scarves and several licensed catego- label. “When you design an accessory, you don’t go into it with the hopes of what ries, such as eyewear with Marchon, watches with Movado and footwear with Jimlar. it could be: to create an ‘It’ bag. With this endeavor, it was something that I really This month, Coach devotees were able to sample the brand’s fi rst knitwear made loved, and it was off the mark for in collaboration with the six-year-old knitwear fi rm Lutz and Patmos. Krakoff met Leiber, but Frank was really sup- young designers Tina Lutz and Marcia Patmos and found they shared the same Rachel Zoe portive. It was a really big risk in my sporty American luxury aesthetic. The knitwear under the Coach label was a debut with one of mind. I didn’t know how it would go. for the brand and features cardigans and capes in bold blocks of color such as her Leiber I love that I created a fantasy for peo- green apple and aqua. designs. ple...but having them in the windows Krakoff upped the ante again in teaming with Trovata. After a yearlong mentor- on Madison Avenue [in Leiber’s fl ag- ship with the up-and-coming design fi rm through the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund ship] makes me kind of nervous.” — Krakoff is on the fund’s board — he helped design Trovata’s bag collection for The stylist, who is also a cre- spring, rife with vintage-looking canvas prints and worn-in leather trim. ative consultant to several luxury “They continue to reinvent themselves year after year,” Terry Lundgren, chair- ready-to-wear brands, said 2006 man, president and chief executive offi cer of Federated Department Stores, said of was an exceptional year for acces- Coach. “They’re one of our fastest-growing handbag and shoe resources and have sories, citing its pinnacle with her been able to put huge increase on top of huge increase, which is not easy to do. pairing of an iridescent plum one- The only way that’s possible is to create products and newness to keep consumers. shoulder Vera Wang dress with a Under Reed’s [tutelage], they’re great innovators.” jewel-drenched vintage Bulgari bib And there’s proof in the pudding. In August, the company reported that, for the on Keira Knightley for the Oscars. year, net income jumped 37.8 percent to $494.3 million. Sales gained 23.4 percent to Zoe’s favorite haunts for acces- $2.11 billion. Coach is expected to reach $2.5 billion in sales and open 30 stores in sories include Dior, Cartier and North America during the fi scal year that ends June 30, and continue to grow its busi- Fred Leighton. ness in Japan. “Fred Leighton is a candy store A Coach What’s next for the brand? In 2007, ex- of jewelry,” she said. “All the emer- Legacy pect to get a whiff of Coach, with its fi rst alds and rubies and 1940s jewelry handbag. fragrance produced by the Estée Lauder — it’s every girl’s dream.” Cos.’s BeautyBank division, in addition Next up for Zoe is her first to more designer partnerships. book, “Style From A to Zoe: The Fragrance is seen as a way to “add Guide to All Things Glamour,” another layer of mystique to the brand,” due next year from Warner Books. Lew Frankfort, Coach’s chairman and There is speculation she might get ceo, told WWD in September when the her own TV show. deal with Lauder was announced. “If it’s possible, I love my job “To me, what Coach is about is a ca- more now than I did 13 years ago,” sual, understated point of view that she said. “If I had to, I’d do this for has a chic, pretty sensibility, but at the the rest of my life for free.” same time it can be casual, sexy,” mused

PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA/WIREIMAGE DONATO PHOTO BY — S.C. Krakoff. “But it always is something we feel has a timeless sensibility to it. Next year, there will be more collaborations and more trying to keep people excited about Coach.” — Sophia Chabbott Marylou Luther Journalism Award: Suzy Menkes SUZY MENKES IS GRATEFUL FOR ONE ACCESSORIES TREND THIS season. “You’re talking to someone with a broken toe,” the Paris-based International Magazine of the Year: O, The Oprah Magazine Herald Tribune fashion editor said. “How disastrous is this? Thank God that this is the season of the square wide toe.” OPRAH WINFREY’S TV PROGRAM CAN Her toe, broken en route to a London fashion show, has also granted Menkes cause viewers to rush to buy the products she one more hot accessory: a silver-topped, ebony wood cane. recommends, and her O, The Oprah Magazine Menkes, easily recognized in the front row at shows by her distinctive pom- can have similar infl uence when it comes to padour, previously demonstrated her accessories obsession with her best-sell- fashion. ing 1985 book, “The Royal Jewels,” which exhaustively researched monarchic To celebrate the title’s infl uence in the baubles. She’s also ruffl ed her share of feathers in world of accessories, O has been selected the fi eld. When she wrote, perhaps prematurely, Suzy as Magazine of the Year by the Accessories that the classic Chanel bag was over, the company Menkes Council. The monthly magazine, introduced bought a full-page ad in her paper to express its in April 2000, has become one of the leading displeasure and refute her claims. women’s lifestyle publications, with a circula- “I think that Coco is having the last laugh,” tion of 2.3 million. Menkes said. Adam Glassman, creative director of O, said Recognized as knowledgeable, eloquent and accessories are important to the magazine, and prolifi c, Menkes is probably the only fashion it always keeps in mind who its readers are. journalist to have been named both an offi cer of “You’ll see Ann Taylor on the same page as the Order of the British Empire and a chevalier Target,” he added. of the Legion of Honor in France. Amy Gross, editor in chief, said the maga- “Of all the accessories that I have worn, is there zine goes through “endless stages of review” anything more chic than a little tiny red ribbon that on accessories and holds Oprah Winfrey as its Oprah you get with the Légion d’honneur?” she asked. ultimate role model. Winfrey But not everyone is intimidated. Kate Moss once

“We have a trust and taste level, and we AP PHOTO/DIMA GAVRYSH PHOTO BY told The New Yorker that Menkes was “like a slight- don’t tell our readers that they have to buy ly mad auntie…when you see her backstage, you can anything,” Gross said. “Oprah’s highest priority is trust, and we operate from that.” always just have a nice chat about shoes with her.” Jill Seelig, vice president and publisher, said the magazine does accessories in Their camaraderie was shown off at a a more attainable and affordable style than many fashion magazines. masked ball this week, when Moss and fi ancé “This [award] is a testament that a lifestyle magazine is more relevant to a wom- Pete Doherty grabbed Menkes to join them in an’s life,” she said. karaoke, singing songs by The Beatles and The Seelig noted that the magazine has posted the best year in its history, as its fash- Carpenters. ion business is up 50 percent from last year, and its watch and jewelry business is “So maybe a microphone is the new acces- up 78 percent. sory,” Menkes said.

— Amy Wicks — Irin Carmon AP PHOTO/JENNIFER GRAYLOCK PHOTO BY

22 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM ACE Awards Preview

Retailer of the Year: Bergdorf Goodman The exterior of Solstice’s West JIM GOLD AND HIS TEAM OF MERCHANTS ARE WORKING HARD TO RE- Coast fl agship tain Bergdorf Goodman’s legendary patrician elegance, but they aren’t holding in the Westfi eld back from infusing the store with a light, youthful energy punctuated with exclu- Century City mall. sive fashions and accessories. Gold, president and chief executive offi cer of the Fifth Avenue specialty store, has been focusing on revamping the store’s accessories merchandise this year, namely by reformatting the main fl oor and making accessories a prominent fi xture on 5F, the fi rm’s newly designed contemporary fl oor complete with a DJ and bar. Gold said accessories is an explosive category for the store that focuses on new and exclusive designers, such as Pedro Garcia and Gryson, in addition to favorites such as Prada and Chanel. “When I fi rst got here a couple of years ago, the average price point for a bag was $500,” he said. “Now it’s $1,000. That’s signifi cant.” Bergdorf ’s main fl oor experienced a major overhaul this year with the in- troduction of a Goyard luggage, handbag and accessories shop, and a display of Prada accessories that were brought back to the store after a hiatus, which now fl anks the Fifth Avenue entrance. The Arcade space at the center of the main fl oor has been dedicated to Nancy Gonzalez’s exotic skin handbags, while a Loro Piana boutique was redesigned for fall, exhibiting the fi rm’s signature scarves and luxurious handbags. “Our main fl oor is so productive that I felt it was important to better balance it and put more emphasis on 58th Street with some new, important resources, cre- ating a lot of energy when you move toward 57th Street,” said Gold. “We’ve been very fortunate to have balanced growth in shoes, jewelry and bags.” The store also has been expanding and diversifying its fi ne jewelry assort- Specialty Store of the Year: Solstice Sunglass Boutique ment, with lines such as Faraone Mennella by R.F.M.A.S. and Lorraine Schwartz, SOLSTICE SUNGLASS BOUTIQUE HAS FORECAST SUNNY SKIES AHEAD, AND in addition to in-store boutiques for venerable brands such as Buccellati, not just because the specialty chain is in the business of retailing shades. Verdura and Kieselstein-Cord. The purveyor of frames by Chanel, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Emporio Armani, The 5F area is targeted for growth. “That fl oor generates a lot of traffi c, and Marc Jacobs and Kate Spade, among another 20 to 30 high-end brands, is anticipat- accessories feed off of traffi c,” said Gold. Brands featured on the fl oor include ing growth after announcing in March that it would almost double its locations to Loeffl er Randall, Gustto, Tory Burch and Car Shoe. 155 doors by the end of 2008. Gold wouldn’t divulge his accessories strategy for next year, but hinted at new The company is also introducing SunSights by Solstice, a concept that will offer de- plans for the 57th Street room on the main fl oor, in addition to news in jewelry, signer looks at more approachable price points, like those created by Armani Exchange bags and shoes. and the soon-to-be-launched Marc by Marc Jacobs eyewear line. The fi rst SunSights is to “When you boil it down, it comes down to a team of great accessories merchants open in early 2007, with another 14 anticipated to roll out in the following 12 months. who have scoured out the most exciting product there is out there,” he added. “[SunSights] is opening up so many different doors for us,” said Ed Jankowski, chief — Sophia Chabbott operating offi cer of Solstice Marketing Concepts, the privately owned parent company of Solstice Sunglass Boutique. “In our expansion, we were coming across retail centers that did not necessarily attract the demographics that we seek out but has a fashion- Bergdorf Goodman’s main fl oor. driven customer nonetheless. And then it just hit us: Why not open stores where fash- ion continues to be important, but it can still appeal to that customer who can’t spend $210 on a pair of sunglasses (which is our average ticket price in Solstice stores)?” Jankowski said that from the start, Solstice wanted to position sunglasses as more of a fashion-driven accessory than purely a functional item, which led to its decision to carry designer labels with a wide assortment and to show them within an open-sell format where customers are at their leisure to try on looks. “We are not a sunglass store, we are an accessories store,” Jankowski said. “Our customer is a fashion consumer who is shopping maybe in the mall and is intrigued by the open-sell format and the assortment. It’s like she is walking into a shoe store or jewelry store. That’s our biggest point of difference.” To keep the customers coming back, Solstice rotates its windows every three weeks, promoting new launches or tying into recently released ad campaigns. “Brands are clamoring to get into the windows,” Jankowski said. “Brands love it because sunglasses are an entry-level product for them that can get their name out to a wider audience. Malls also love it because having an image of Gucci or Chanel in a store window reinforces to their shoppers that they are at a mall that carries the latest fashion items.” Solstice opened its fi rst boutique in Orlando, Fla., in 1999, under the opera- tion of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. In 2002, LVMH sold the business, then comprising six stores, to a group of private investors, the largest of which was Safi lo Group, the eyewear manufacturer based in Italy. The investment group formed Solstice Marketing Concepts, which has grown the chain to 81 doors, aver- aging 800 to 1,200 square feet. There are also three off-price outlet stores. Locations exist in many major U.S. cities, including New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Chicago, Boston and Atlanta. Solstice opened its new West Coast fl agship in Los Angeles in the Westfi eld Century City mall in 2005 and plans to launch an East Coast fl agship in December in Manhattan’s SoHo district. Solstice is also exploring e-commerce and expansion into the Caribbean and Europe over the next year. “Receiving the award from ACE proves that our intention to make sunglasses a fashion accessory business has been recognized,” Jankowski said. — Jennifer Hirshlag

 
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)',( 24 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM Media/Advertising MEMO PAD

A sampling of the best and worst covers for the fi rst half of ’06.

COVER STARS: Those New Yorker, Rolling Stone and Time magazine covers bashing President Bush and his administration may have won the American Society of Magazine Editors’ fi rst-ever Cover Competition at the American Magazine Conference last week, but good looks don’t always translate into good newsstand sales. Both New Yorker covers for Sept. 19, 2005, and Feb. 27 were average newsstand performers in their respective six- month periods, but Rolling Stone’s cover with Bush wearing a dunce cap was its strongest regular issue for the period (May 4; 176,055 copies) and outperformed last year’s May 5 issue, which sold just 93,900 copies, by 87 percent. And the rule seems to apply not only to Bush, but to Hollywood celebrities, as well. Just look at the newsstand performance of major titles over the fi rst six months of the year, according to fi gures from the Audit Bureau of Circulations. For example, Mandy Moore was Elle’s best-selling cover in the period (June; 382,900 copies, up 46 percent over June 2005) and was Glamour’s second best-selling one (February; 870,014, down 7 percent). But the actress and pop star didn’t fare well for Cosmopolitan. Her May cover was its worst performer (1,800,265, down 1.4 percent). copies in January, the worst for the six-month period, but a of “Lost” (May; 427,876, down 3.2 percent). Details scored “It’s a whole combination of things. A lot of it is timing, 9.8 percent gain over the same month last year. big with small-screen star Patrick Dempsey (March; 72,140, or the look the reader responds to,” said Elle editor in chief At the teen titles, pin-thin Nicole Richie, 25, was a up 17.9 percent ), but bombed with action-fl ick beefcake Robbie Myers. For example, Moore wore Chanel on the Elle big seller for Cosmogirl (June-July; 425,000, down 3.4 Vin Diesel (April; 60,983, down 31.3 percent). cover, a departure from her casual image. “Our readers percent). “Girls like how she’s come clean about herself For the celebrity weeklies, babies were the hot story for respond to a subject they know who has a new look.” Elle’s more than other celebrities do,” said Susan Schultz, the fi rst half. In Touch moved 1.4 million copies with its May cover, its worst for the period, was an earthy Evangeline Cosmogirl’s editor in chief. “And she’s funny. If you June 26 cover story “Jen [Aniston] Looks Pregnant” (up 11.3 Lilly (266,900 copies, fl at compared with last year). make our reader laugh, they love you.” Alicia Keys was percent), and Star sold 925,894 copies March 13 with a Cosmo found better success with Beyoncé Knowles Cosmogirl’s worst seller (March; 309,400, down 13.9 story on Kevin Federline and a pregnant Britney Spears, up 15 for its February cover. The pop star and actress sold 2.1 percent). Wild child Lindsay Lohan, 20, was Seventeen’s percent. People sold nearly 2 million single copies in early million single copies, the best for the period and a 2.2 best-selling cover (April; 343,400, down 3.4 percent), June, thanks to stories about the birth of Angelina Jolie’s and percent increase from February 2005. Jennifer Aniston was while Kelly Clarkson in January was its worst at (307,006; Brad Pitt’s daughter, Shiloh, and exclusive photos the following the best-selling cover for Vogue (April; 571,346, up 7.4 up 5.1 percent). Meanwhile, Lohan, along with Meryl week (up 26.8 and 61 percent, respectively). On the other percent) and for In Style (January; 865,102, down 5.5 Streep, didn’t work magic for W in May — their joint cover hand, People’s March 6 cover on Jessica Simpson’s and Nick percent) and was Harper’s Bazaar’s second-best cover for was the magazine’s lowest selling of the six months at Lachey’s divorce sold 1.35 million copies (up 3.4 percent). the period (June; 216,000, up 25 percent). 46,274 copies, even though it was 6 percent above the “We didn’t do that [story] very often, we had them on the Meanwhile, Drew Barrymore was a bomb for both Vogue previous May. W’s best-selling cover was April’s Jessica cover twice. It was just not a story we spent a lot of time on,” (February; 356,458, down 10.5 percent) and Marie Claire Simpson (54,929, up 22.5 percent). said managing editor Larry Hackett. Lachey was also a soft (April; 297,081, down 38.9 percent). Eva Longoria worked At the men’s books, actors and A-listers were often seller for Us Weekly (May 1; 843,096 copies, down 24.8 well for Allure, banking its best-selling cover in April by outshone by smaller names — or no names at all. Maxim percent), but it made up the difference a month later with a moving 314,128 copies, but that was 30 percent lower trumpeted its 100th issue by putting the number ‘100’ on slimmed-down Janet Jackson for its June 5 cover, moving 1.3 than last year’s April issue. February’s Sheryl Crow was its April cover. The issue sold 597,825 copies, its best for million copies (up 18.1 percent). — Stephanie D. Smith Allure’s weakest choice for the six months, selling 267,058 the period and 25.8 percent higher than April 2005. That’s issues, a 1.3 percent improvement over February 2005. more than covers featuring Kristen Bell and Jamie-Lynn Sigler WHO YOU KNOW: How did House & Garden editor in chief For Glamour, Sarah Jessica Parker on the March cover during the six months. Esquire’s January cover featuring Dominique Browning convince Uma Thurman to cohost was the top performer at 878,040 copies (up 6.8 percent), shock-jock Howard Stern was its bestseller, moving 124,593 tonight’s book party for artist Marielle Bancou’s “The Color but its May cover, with model Alessandra Ambrosio, moved newsstand copies (up 10.3 percent), while Hollywood of Love?” Browning penned the introduction to the book, 727,097 issues, the softest of the period and a 15.6 heavyweight Tom Hanks in June was its worst (June; 95,604, which features love poetry from the likes of Sophocles percent decline over last year. In Style also posted its lowest down 12.9 percent). GQ’s April cover model Adriana Lima and James Joyce, handwritten against deeply saturated single-copy sale for the period with TV personality/model sold 282,703 (up 7.9 percent), but portly funnyman Jack pools of color. But it just so happens that Bancou is Heidi Klum (June; 717,839, down 21.3 percent). Meanwhile, Black sold 187,333 in January. However, that cover still sold Thurman’s godmother (her father and Bancou’s late Vanity Fair won big with naked top-notch actresses; its 6.7 percent more copies than the previous January issue. husband had Buddhism in common), and the artist is March Hollywood issue with Scarlett Johansson and Keira The Men’s Health January-February cover with Eric Bana was reportedly preparing a massive screen of her work for Knightley sold 562,170 copies, a 63 percent jump over last its best-selling one ever (January-February; 729,547, up Thurman’s apartment. Bancou’s apartment is featured in year. Meanwhile, a fully dressed Naomi Watts sold 342,515 14.7 percent) and the magazine missed with Josh Holloway the November issue of the magazine. — Irin Carmon An Advertising Section in WWD Monday, October 30, 2006

“The market is not just about white socks anymore. At the last runway shows, tights, footless tights and lace tights made tremendous comebacks. And in some cases got more attention than the outfi ts they were worn with!”

— Isaac Ash, president, United Legwear and Bodywear Company LEGWEAR: THE NEW RETAIL DISCOVERY

Legwear is back, with innovative fabrics, colors and styles commanding attention not just on fashion runways, but retail selling fl oors. But while tights, hosiery, socks, sheers and leggings may be fashion necessities, depart- ment stores are often missing major opportunities with poor positioning and merchandising, industry sources contended. Department stores jumped the gun in moving hosiery off the main fl oor and shifting it to other areas, which hurt sales, reported Mitch Brown, president of Doris International SOCKS AND HOSIERY WITH LYCRA® Inc., the fourth largest legwear PROVIDE ADDED COMFORT AND FIT. supplier in North America, the top source in Canada, licensee of Jockey hosiery and creator of Kushyfoot ®, its food, drug and mass brand of ladies socks. “That’s a mistake, particularly today when the legwear and sock business is trending and the category is hot again,” Brown said. “Legwear sales for fall at department stores are actually up over last year, even though consumers often can’t fi nd it.” Magazines and designers may inspire consumers to buy footless tights, textured pantyhose and opaques, but retailers don’t always display them properly, he added. Because legwear departments sometimes were shifted off mainfl oors or hidden away, consumers may seek legwear, but not see it, Brown noted. “The simplest solution for stores could be to outpost hosiery again, like they did when color tights fi rst emerged over 20 years ago.” Legwear and hosiery should be better spotlighted in stores, agreed Jerry Perry, vice president merchandising and design, DML Marketing Group, with legwear, socks and hosiery under Legale, Active Ingredients, Kenzie and the children’s brand Toe-tally. “It is an accessory and should be serving just that purpose.” Legwear buyers should increase their commitment to giving the category more fl oor space, Perry suggested. “When legwear wasn’t trending up, a lot of department LEG RESOURCE, INC. stores moved the departments off the main fl oor and to back space. And that defi nitely hurt.” Continued to Legwear page 2

1 MATERNITY ADVERTISEMENT SOCK IT TO ME “When legwear wasn’t trending up, a lot of department stores moved the departments off the mainfl oor and to back space. And that defi nitely hurt.”

—Jerry Perry, vice president merchandising and design, DML Marketing Group

Continued from Legwear page 1 With apparel prices continuing to rise, need to give it more emphasis, with capsule legwear allows women to vary their style presentations on the main fl oor and notations of dressing at an affordable cost, Perry of exactly where to fi nd it.” agreed. “That’s exactly what accessories Department stores also could heighten are supposed to do. Like costume the department’s visibility and raise jewelry, scarves and hats, legwear consumer interest by accessorizing allows customers to change an outfi t mannequins with socks and hosiery and give it a new look through the shown on fashion runways, he use of accessories.” suggested. The legwear and hosiery The market should be positioned market should continue to gain as a necessity, advocated Isaac strength and momentum, Ash, president of United Legwear Perry predicted. and Bodywear Company, which UNITED LEGWEAR UNITED LEGWEAR “Legwear used has had PUMA legwear since 1999 & BODYWEAR & BODYWEAR to be con- and supplies private label legwear sidered just a to leading specialty chains. “As people commodity, but enter department stores, legwear needs now is a fashion to be shown as a basic. It’s almost like item. Retailers socks are a follower — and that may all come down to the price retailers get back. “A consumer today may buy fi ve to seven pairs of socks, but only one pair of pants. So the volume may be in the mainfl oor. or adding it to other socks, but the price is in other items. departments where hosiery could be a Retail space is shrinking today because pickup item. Better merchandising within it’s all about dollars per square foot, stores would really help bring hosiery back. and buyers are hard pressed to do “A lot of times, you can go into a 1996 2006 that selling $4, $6 or $8 socks.” department store, but don’t even see where As a result, additional retail sock to fi nd hosiery, and there’s rarely direction sales have been stimulated with the on where it’s located.” creative use of multi-packs, Ash said. In the past, retailers repositioned legwear in the store certain months of LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION the year to generate business in other Retail executives seeking to take categories. Now, the heightened response advantage of consumers’ rising interest to socks, tights and other styles has retailers in socks and leggings should display rethinking their strategies, noted Wayne them on the main fl oor, adjacent to Continued to Legwear page 4 shoes or accessories, said Brown of Finest Quality Fashion Legwear Doris, who has 25 years experience in the market. “Some of the greatest successes in the industry have been We thank our loyal customers new brands that gained sales volume because of their outposting. It makes for their continued support a big difference and really helps customers fi nd the product.” Kushyfoot® found success by taking a better product and adding ANNE KLEIN NEW YORK new technology and design, but bringing it to the mass market, Brown AK ANNE KLEIN added. Due to its resurgence, legwear VIA SPIGA continues to offer retailers more opportunities and should be featured on the mainfl oor, Perry of DML ANDREA JOVINE asserted. “Now that legwear is trending E.G SMITH back, retailers need to bring those presentations forward, and make them ORGANIC COTTON BY LEGALE Private Label Legwear prominent by donating back space on

Empire State Building, 350 Fifth Avenue, Suite 5008, 2 LEGWEAR New York, NY 10118 • 212-736-4574 • Fax 212-736-0245

ADVERTISEMENT The Newest FASHION NECESSITY Continued from Legwear page 2 “Some of the greatest Lederman, president, Leg Resource, Inc., which is so hot now it’s even made its way into the has women’s, men’s and children’s items. sport category.” successes in the industry “From a merchandising perspective, I think Sport socks are so strong, “The Ultimate Sock” you’ll see changes because legwear is trending has become one of PUMA’s hottest novelty styles, upward and sales over the counter are really he added. PUMA moved seamlessly to the sock have been new brands kicking in. We are very optimistic and retailers are market, observed Jay Piccola, president and too. The cycle has really come around general manager of PUMA North that gained sales for legwear and we’re on an upswing. America. Fashion is cyclical, and legwear “PUMA North America works certainly is coming back!” with partners who truly understand volume because of their The legwear market has shifted and embrace the brand. Isaac Ash from being a commodity to now being a and his team at United Legwear fashion business, Lederman asserted. successfully translated PUMA into outposting. It makes a big “There’s still a great degree of basic the sock industry, with a collection product of course, but what creates that speaks to our philosophy of difference and really helps interest today is the fashion end of blending the infl uences of sports, business.” fashion and lifestyle.” Leg Resource, Inc. has seen a customers fi nd A FASHIONABLE FUTURE major resurgence in the legwear Consumers’ expectations for and sock category, and continues to the product.” legwear have grown signifi cantly, be on an upswing, said Lederman. said Ash of United Legwear. “The “It has extended the shelf life of the market is not just about white product, and we are seeing longer — Mitch Brown, president, Doris International Inc. socks anymore. At the last runway use of socks, tights, trouser socks, shows, tights, footless tights and knee socks, capris and footless lace tights made tremendous PUMA BY tights and panty hose.” comebacks. And in some cases UNITED LEGWEAR The 12-year-old company, got more attention than the outfi ts & BODYWEAR which operates a 50,000 square they were worn with!” foot factory in Concord, N.C., makes Legwear draws interest with private label lines for specialty retailers women by offering “pops of color,” throughout the U.S. and Canada, and also adding fl avor to skirts or cropped pants, has exclusive licenses for Anne Klein, Via with popular styles being capri footless tights Spiga, Andrea Jovine and EG Smith. and above-the-knee footless tights with fresh Legwear lets consumers create fresh looks at JOCKEY LEGWEAR BY DORIS fabric trends like pique texture, mesh, spun rayon good prices, Ash stressed. INTERNATIONAL INC., WITH LYCRA®. and wool. “With tights and footless tights today, Natural fi bers, soft fi bers like microfi ber women have so many options. A black skirt is and spun rayons, and organic cotton also are a black skirt — but when you wear it with increasingly important,” Ash said. footless tights underneath, they basically Lace or drop-stitch styles continue to sell accessorize that skirt, and change its look with well, and footless sport leggings are gaining new leggings.” considerable attention, Ash added. “Footless Continued to Legwear page 6

NEW PACKAGING FOR DORIS INTERNATIONAL INC.’S KUSHYFOOT®, WHICH MASSAGE THE FEET WITH EVERY STEP AND FEATURE LYCRA ®.

4 LEGWEAR ADVERTISEMENT WELL-BEING BENEFITS BRING NEW DIRECTION TO SOCKS, HOSIERY AND LEGGINGS Legwear continues to be a fashion force both on the the well-being benefi ts of aloe vera, sea kelp and vitamin E patchouli), balance (ylang-ylang, jasmine and catwalk and at retail, according to leading fi ber producer in socks and hosiery, with advantages like freshness, sandalwood) and energy (grapefruit and bergamot), INVISTA, which will offer the latest new innovations and massaging and moisturizing, said Valerie Mackie, Mackie noted. trends for 2007-2008. marketing manager, Canada. Easy Set LYCRA® technology delivers softer stretch New directions by INVISTA will redefi ne socks, Target recently launched a unique sock program and recovery, excellent shape retention, true-to-size hosiery and leggings, unveiling creative concepts, that draws consumer attention to the many well-being appearance and counter appeal without sacrifi cing themes and styles, the company reported. benefi ts of LYCRA® Body Care, creating a large space comfort. CoolMax® performance brand socks with INVISTA announced eight new trends for 2007-2008: dedicated specifi cally to socks and hosiery. Easy Set LYCRA® may reduce blisters while keeping LYCRA® Body Care Sensations, the latest addition feet cool and dry. • Top to Toe: Simple and elegant legwear spanning to the LYCRA® Body Care family, adds well-being Energizing Socks, for people on their feet all day, casual looks and sophisticated elegance. aromatherapy benefi ts, with three scents capturing Continued to Legwear page 8 different moods: Tranquility (geranium, lavender and • Sheer Delight: With sheers 5 LEGWEAR a must-have for 2007-2008, they deliver feminine looks with open structures and soft shaping that fi lls the demand for contoured body silhouettes.

• Relaxed Fit: For the young at heart, mixes layering and fun in legwear that makes a statement.

• Short Story: Legwear will continue to complement shorter hemlines on skirts and shorts in fashion, with knee-highs playing an im- portant role.

• Let It Shine: A movement to all that shimmers and sparkles.

• Aristocrats: Socks for men, complementing both the new skinny look trou- ser and more casual and elegant styles.

• Color Me Beautiful: A color palette with bold, bright shades. Graphics and patterns are contrasted with simple but strong mono- color looks.

• Competitive Spirit: High performance legwear for the sporty attitude.

Leggings are the hottest must-have fashion acces- sory for consumers today, reported Dianne Lober, marketing communications manager, legwear. INVISTA also offers sev- eral innovations transform- ing the legwear market, with new consumer benefi ts. Over the years, consumer research by INVISTA re- vealed women place a high value on features like fresh- ening, moisturizing, scents, and other benefi ts linked to well-being and consum- ers seek the added value LYCRA® delivers, welcom- ing its superior comfort and fi t, Lober noted. LYCRA® Body Care’s ino- vative micro-encapsulated technology offers consumer ADVERTISEMENT FROM COMMODITY TO FASHION ITEM

fi bers, DML added natural fi bers like bamboo, organic cotton and vitamin additives to its Active Ingredients line, detailing benefi ts for the skin from vitamin C, vitamin E or aloe, Perry said. Packaging for DML’s Kenzie line also was updated with a special bow that gives the products a specialty store feel, he said.

WHAT’S IN STORE Doris International, which sells department stores and private label to retailers such as Nordstrom, Saks Off Fifth, Dillard’s, Talbots and Victoria’s Secret, also sells Kushyfoot® to consumers online at www.kushyfoot.com. Retail prices are $2.99 to $4.99 at stores like Fred Meyer, Duane Reade, Rite Aid, Brooks Drug Stores, Eckerd’s, Giant Markets, Tops and CVS/ Pharmacy. DML’S prices are affordable, Perry noted, with Legale retailing at $5 to $10 and Kenzie for $8 to $15. Consumers respond to value, like “three for $12 or three for $15,” which inspires multiple KENZIE BY DML MARKETING GROUP purchases, United Legwear’s Ash explained.

“Legwear is trending upward and sales over the counter are really kicking in. The cycle has really come around for legwear and we’re on an upswing. Legwear certainly is coming back!” — Wayne Lederman, president, Leg Resource, Inc.

Continued from Legwear page 4

THE BUSINESS OF STYLE Because retailers put active businesses in the Ten-year-old Doris International, a wholly-owned forefront, there could be signifi cant changes for subsidiary of Doris Hosiery Mills of Canada, which legwear positioning in 2007, Lederman predicted. celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2005, has seen “Legwear is featured in almost every fashion major evolution in the industry. show and magazine you see today. It’s the talk “The pantyhose business has really become of the industry, and that has to translate well to the ‘shaping business.’ Women buy pantyhose consumers.” because it shapes their body, and they look Legwear allows women to look stylish at good slimmer and feel more comfortable. That’s in all prices, he added. “That’s the reason accessories our businesses today, and the biggest story in have become so popular. They are a way for Jockey,” Brown said. women to change their look for a reasonable Kushyfoot®, the fi rst hosiery brand to deliver amount of money. The entire accessory world is the healing art of Refl exology with each step, also benefi ting from that phenomenon because these features innovative packaging with a drawing of a items are so trendy, yet relatively inexpensive.” character enjoying her socks with wardrobe and shoe suggestions, Brown noted. Doris Inc. also is fi nding response to Dream Soles®, its department store women’s brand of socks that cushions feet, and Therapy Plus +™, its mass market brand of diabetic and compression socks with department store quality delivering wellness for both women and men. While leggings have become much more important in recent seasons, novelty fashion socks also have picked up, said DML’s Perry. “Today, it’s about styling, the hand, the fabrication and colors. It used to be all black, but color is retailing well today as well.” The spotlight on legwear at fashion shows brought it added prominence, Perry added. “Legwear and socks were some of the few exciting things at the shows this past year.” Because consumers increasingly respond to features like comfort and environmentally-friendly ACTIVE INGREDIENTS BY LEGALE

6 LEGWEAR LYCRA® is a registered trademark of INVISTA for premium stretch fibers and fabrics. ADVERTISEMENT HOSIERY SALES KICKING IT UP

in a store, but can’t. When I go into department stores and ask sales associates, ‘Where’s your hosiery department?’ most don’t even know if they have one,” he said. “Hosiery has continued to self destruct because retailers just don’t give it the space it needs.” Cohen recalled he recently was shocked to fi nd hosiery positioned behind a store’s clearance department. “Behind all the racks, junk and leftovers from other areas was where I found hosiery. Hosiery is so underserved, so ignored, that only a few retailers really understand it.” Retailers underplaying legwear are making a huge mistake, added David Wolfe, creative director of the Doneger Group. “I’m obsessed with legwear — but so is the world!” Legwear may be an accessory, but commanded attention at recent fashion runway shows, with women appreciating it costs less than other items they buy, and posses no fi t problems, Wolfe added. “This is a case of consumers being ahead of designers, and I think legwear people will be cashing in on what really is a grassroots movement. LEG RESOURCE, INC. “Legwear is kind of the son of the skinny jean! There’s a new silhouette that’s skinny on the Women’s legwear sales stepped up to new bottom, big on the top, and lots of consumers heights last year, reaching almost $3 billion for the understood leggings and the legging boom are a 3 inch heels. 12 months ending August 2006, according to The big factor in that.” NPD Group. Shoppers can’t always fi nd legwear and hosiery 7hours on Socks were the most popular category, with “because retailers got caught sleeping,” observed retail sales rising to well over $1.7 billion for the Cohen. “So people who want to buy it now may your feet. period. Sheer hosiery retail sales were over $1 have to be creative and fi nd it in at specialty stores billion, while tights registered sales of over $107 or online. Most hosiery manufacturers don’t sell million. online — and shame on them! They may say they No problem. “Hosiery has continued to self destruct because retailers just don’t give it the space it needs.” — Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst, NPD Group

Average retail prices paid by consumers were don’t want to insult retailers, but the retailer is Life is uncomfortable enough, $1.70 for socks, $2.85 for sheer hosiery and $4.51 dying to get rid of them!” for tights, NPD reported. Legwear is a classic case of how a product can your feet shouldn’t be. Socks continue to perform well, growing about be undeserved, Cohen asserted. ”If I was writing She’s wearing the nearly invisible Kushyfoot Ultra 2 percent a year, with the market responsive and a Harvard Business review, I’d pick the hosiery Low Foot Cover. Whether she chooses the dressiest retaining fl oor space, said Marshal Cohen, chief business to show how it shot itself — no pun pumps or casual sneaks we have the industry analyst, NPD Group. “They’ve done intended — in the foot!” creative and innovative things with packaging, right socks for her. They’re all designed colors, textures and technology. The sock business to relieve tension & fatigue, making should remain healthy going forward with a pretty Women’s Hosiery Sales the whole body feel refreshed. steady growth rate.” Dollar Volume (000) But retailers are not doing a good enough job of showing legwear and hosiery to consumers, September 2005-August, 2006 and should dedicate more fl oor space to it, Cohen stressed. Total $2,894,286 Hosiery companies may be some of the most Socks $1,759,887 technologically-advanced businesses in the apparel Check out our industry, “but don’t always know where to sell it Sheer Hosiery $1,026,496 entire line of socks at because retailers don’t put it in the stores. “One of the most underserved markets in all of Tights $107,904 apparel and accessories is the legwear business. Almost everyone at some point tries to fi nd hosiery Source: The NPD Group

7 LEGWEAR massages your feet with every step® ADVERTISEMENT For More NEW DIRECTIONS AND TRENDS INFORMATION REDEFINE LEGWEAR FOR 2007-2008 INVISTA DML Maketing Group Three Little Falls Centre 358 Fifth Avenue 2801 Centerville Road Continued from Legwear page 5 Suite 707 Wilmington, DE 19808 New York, NY 10001 have a small amount of LYCRA® in graduated products and wick away properties. Those yarns Dianne Lober, marketing Mark Hierbaum, ceo compression over-the-calf or trouser socks that have really taken off,” Ash said. communications manager Showroom Tel: 212.714.2010 enhance circulation in the lower foot areas. Invista and United Legwear give added Tel: 302.683.3017 Additionally, LYCRA® Legcare, similar to benefi ts to socks that consumers notice and Email: [email protected] Doris International Inc. energizing socks but intended for hosiery, create appreciate, he added. “There may be other www.invista.com 3701 Jarry East healthier, less fatigued legs, reported John Haigh, performance yarns out there, but Coolmax® is www.lycra.com North America marketing manager, Legwear. certainly the most well known and popular.” Montreal, QC , H1Z 2G1 Tel: 514.376.3000 Invista also provides durability through Brown of Doris International Inc. stressed Leg Resource, Inc. Fax: 514.352.0876 Cordura® yarn with LYCRA® for abrasion consumers seek products that are good for their 350 Fifth Avenue resistance in the heel and toe, and freshness feet, like Kushyfoot®, which also features the Suite 5008 U.S. contacts: from Tactel® freshFX with LYCRA® in socks and benefi ts of LYCRA®. New York, NY 10118 Jockey tights for long lasting freshness. “We use a three-dimensional sole with Wayne Lederman, president Wes Watson, director of sales Ash of United Legwear noted the fi rm works Lycra® yarns developed by Invista®, to provide Tel: 212.736.4574 Tel: 901.850.0815 closely with Invista to fi ll consumers’ growing a constant massage with every step. Without a Fax: 212.736.0245 Email: [email protected] demand for innovative hosiery, offering Coolmax® doubt that is making a big difference today and Email: [email protected] and the anti-bacterial freshFX®. consumers are starved for it.” www.jockey.com “Consumers are seeking performance United Legwear & Bodywear Kushyfoot® Company Ani Basmacioglu, 39 West 37th Street marketing coordinator 14th Floor Tel: 514.723.7345 New directions by INVISTA will redefi ne socks, New York, NY 10018 Email: [email protected] Isaac Ash, president www.kushyfoot.com hosiery and leggings, unveiling creative concepts, Tel: 212.391.4143 themes and styles, the company reported. Email: [email protected]

8 LEGWEAR WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 25 WWD.COM Etro Brings ‘Cosmic Nomads’ to Calif. Marvin Traub Takes Role By Joanna Ramey taking over from Kean. Now a mother of two-year-old Filippo, SAN FRANCISCO — Next time Veronica said her designs have At SD Retail Consulting Veronica Etro returns to Northern become more practical. California, she hopes to see the “At fi rst, I was more gadget- By David Moin scenery from a car pulling an like, if you think of the Chicken iconic silver-bullet Airstream Bag,” a comic purse with a like- NEW YORK — Marvin Traub trailer with her husband and son ness of a nesting chicken on the is broadening his universe of inside. “It’s the American dream. side. “Now I want things to be consulting. I would just do it here,” she said. beautiful, more for women,” said The former chairman Etro was in town earlier this Veronica, who was the only girl in and chief executive officer month with her brother, Kean, the family, the youngest child and of Blooming dale’s has been the respective women’s wear who recalls playing with swatch- named chairman of SD Retail and men’s wear designers for the es as a child. “I never actually did Consulting, a new position, and Milanese family’s fashion house. dresses for dolls,” she said. will continue as president of The top-selling store of Etro fash- Growing up, Veronica said her Marvin Traub Associates. ions in the U.S. is the Neiman mother, Roberta, an interior de- The consulting activities of Marcus in San Francisco, a dis- signer, never talked about fashion, SD Retail are centered on fi - tinction it routinely trades with and she’s never been to one of her nancial, operational, strategic the Neiman’s in Los Angeles. daughter’s shows — an absence and supply-chain issues. The Her visit also marked the fi rst that doesn’t bother the designer. fi rm was formerly called Senn- trip for her spring 2007 line of “I love it because she has her own Delaney Retail Consulting and is paisley, fl oral, batik and geomet- sense of style,” Veronica said, a unit of the Hilco Organization ric pieces, which was shown in which she describes as classic. in Northbrook, Ill. Milan last month. “This is a real Veronica’s key fashion ba- Marvin Traub Associates trunk show,” Veronica, 32, said rometer continues to be her fa- mostly consults on merchan- at Neiman’s on Union Square. ther, Gimmo, who founded Etro dising, marketing, media and The collection is called in 1968 as a textile design house branding issues for retailers

“Cosmic Nomads: The Time and whose fabrics are used in and consumer goods companies, MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY Travelers,” and Veronica said it Veronica Etro at Neiman Marcus. the company’s collections. She as well as licensing and merger Marvin Traub and Gregory Rubin channels her childhood love of studios are in San Francisco and still seeks his opinion of her and acquisition activities. Traub also has been active in develop- science fi ction, including a pas- she was leaving that afternoon. work. “We all do,” she said, also ing global strategies for companies. He has a staff of seven and a sion for “Star Wars.” The movie’s It was a quick trip for the sis- referring to her brothers Jacopo, pool of 15 former principals that he’s arranged to be available on hairy Chewbacca character in- ter-and-brother team. Kean, 42, 43, who oversees accessories, a freelance basis. spired a geometric inset of tur- alighted just for the day to attend and Ippolito, 39, who looks after Traub said he will be working with Gregory Rubin, the presi- quoise leather in a sheer black an Etro fashion show for fall that international business. dent and chief executive offi cer of SD Retail Consulting, which sleeveless top — a likeness that took over Neiman’s couture de- As for her own sense of fash- has a 22-member team. Rubin will maintain space at Traub’s Man- might be hard for others to spot. partment. The next morning he ion, Veronica said there are as hattan offi ces. The bare back of a long, fl ow- fl ew to Mexico City to be with likely to be Gap jeans and Ts in “Our skills are very complementary,” Rubin said in an interview. ing halter dress in batik and pais- his new fi ancée, identifi ed by a her closet as separates from Yves The two fi rms will share clients to expand their consulting prac- ley prints has a fl irtatious, over- company spokeswoman as living Saint Laurent or Dries Van Noten. tices, domestically and overseas, and collaborate on certain proj- the-shoulder asymmetrical panel there. Veronica said the engage- Before leaving for the airport, ects. One of them is Toronto-based Holt Renfrew. Part of the as- of shiny quilted pieces in purple, ment is new and only allowed she planned to buy her husband a signment involves helping the luxury chain manage its workforce yellow and blue. “It’s Princess she knows her future sister-in- pair of Levi’s jeans at the store’s more cost-effectively and maximizing the scheduling. Holt Renfrew Leah,” said Veronica, who ap- law as “Costanza.” Union Square fl agship. She had uses consultants even though it’s a profi table, growing company peared disappointed to learn Veronica has designed Etro’s already picked up a pair of sneak- that is expanding and renovating stores and upgrading offerings. “Star Wars” creator George Lucas’ women’s wear line since 2000, ers for her son at Niketown. The chain is also planning a replacement store in Vancouver. “Consultants can be very helpful to healthy businesses,” Traub noted. formulas — fi ve day formulas packaged in white Traub’s consulting clients have included a range of retail- Fashion Scoops ampoules, and fi ve nighttime ones in silver — each ers, brands and consumer products companies, from American numbered and organized in the order of usage and Express, Ralph Lauren and Jones New York to Saks Fifth GREAT SCOTT: Lanky L’Wren Scott has something stored in disposable single-dose ampoules that Avenue, Linens-n-Things and the Al Tayer Group in Dubai. He cooking tonight at hot spot Bette. She’s hosting an Hoffman designed. The collection will be available also has been involved in mall projects in Panama City, Athens intimate showing of her new clothing line followed by in a single day packet, weekend kit, week kit and and the Time Warner Center here and helps clients develop dinner for 40 or so of her closest friends. And they full-size versions of each product. The products will overseas distribution and expand across borders. don’t get closer than Scott’s boyfriend Mick Jagger range from $20 for the Night & Day single packet Traub believes it is particularly important for domestic sup- who — coincidence? — is already in town. He and to $125 for a full-size night cream. Hoffman also pliers to consider overseas distribution. “Major retail consolida- his Rolling Stones mates played Sunday night at the plans to expand the line into a lifestyle brand and tions have made it more diffi cult for some suppliers,” he said. Beacon Theater and do so again Tuesday night. That’s will introduce additional hair care and fragrance “The retail business is healthy, while wholesale is mixed.” quite a nice bookend for Scott’s fete. products. Added Rubin, “Retailers have become more vertical and have more clout.” WOULD TOOTSIE USE THEM?: After helping her THE SOPRANOS: Move over, Christian Lacroix. Hugo Among other assignments, Rubin recently has been working husband, Dustin Hoffman, pack for his many travels, Boss is the latest brand to design costumes for the with Offi ce Depot on inventory issues, including presenting and Lisa Hoffman considers herself an expert. But Parisian stage, having created some 70 contemporary handling stock on the selling fl oor and storage areas and making after years of struggling to pack her own skin care looks for a performance of Hector Berlioz’s “Les the store easier to shop. He has consulted for companies such as products, fi lling small jars and ampoules, she was Troyens” at the Opera Bastille through Nov. 14, Harrods, Footlocker and Toys ‘R’ Us and has had a long relation- inspired to create her own line, Lisa Hoffman Night featuring a set inspired by the late German director ship with Target. Rubin became acquainted with Traub years ago & Day 24 Hour Skincare. Launching in December Herbert Wernicke. It was Wernicke who picked the while on consulting assignments at Federated Department Stores exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman, the collection brand to design costumes for his staging of the same and its Bloomingdale’s division. consists of 10 cleansing, toning and moisturizing opera at the Salzburg Festival in 2000.

each is received and goes with the one shoppers like best. “A/B testing is going to be a very powerful tool for us,” he Forrester: Technology Needs to Embrace Consumer said. “We are using it to raise conversion rates.” Fast-food behemoth McDonald’s used the online chan- By Denise Power Direct and the presidents of Discover Financial nel to “inform and provide a human touch,” said Overby, Services, NASCAR and Travelocity. in reference to a global “casting call” it launched this OH, THE INHUMANITY OF THE DIGITAL EXPERIENCE. When going online for customer service, only 29 year. By asking patrons to submit entries that could win Consumers accept self-service channels such as the percent of consumers are satisfi ed with that channel; them a starring role in product packaging, McDonald’s Web, freestanding kiosks and automated voice technol- when seeking to complete a transaction online, only 50 invited customers to the table. It’s part of a turnaround ogy — in place of people — for customer service. But percent are satisfi ed. Kiosk-based transactions yield prompted by a sales slump in 2002, when “we took our the dehumanizing experience of interacting with tech- a satisfactory rating from a paltry 18 percent of more eyes off our fries,” ceo Jim Skinner said. (Sales have nology in these channels has consumers poised for re- than 10,000 consumers polled by Forrester. since rebounded 30 percent and share price tripled.) volt, say analysts at Forrester Research. More than half (54 percent) of Web sites lack es- “You can’t push yourself into customers’ lives. They “Mainstream consumers won’t tolerate technology sential content, 60 percent have unclear menus and have to pull you in,” Skinner said, noting that 13,000 en- hassles. They’ll tune out, give up,” said Christine Overby, 79 percent contain content that’s hard to read, accord- tries were submitted, including a video of two guys rapping Forrester principal analyst. Worse yet, consumers broad- ing to Forrester. Among kiosks, 67 percent have poor about Chicken McNuggets, from more than 100 countries. cast these mishaps via blogs and YouTube.com videos. error recovery. Forty-two percent of automated phone “Today, the digital experience is one in which technol- “Digital channels are the enfant terribles of 2006,” systems lack essential content, and 58 percent make it ogy gets in the way” of human benefi ts, said Forrester’s said Harley Manning, vice president, research director, diffi cult to reach a live person, Manning said. Manning. Humanizing the experience is not merely a soft Forrester. “It’s time for digital channels to stop embarrass- At Neiman Marcus Direct, consumers infl uence just benefi t; it has a hard return on investment, he said, citing ing their parents and start living up to their potential.” how images and information are presented online through Eddie Bauer’s Web site overhaul. The retailer invested Overby and Manning spoke in Chicago last week A/B testing, said Brendan Hoffman, president and ceo. By $124,150 for a user-friendly redesign and operating profi t at a Forrester conference whose speakers included creating an “A” version of a Web page and a slightly dif- rose $5.5 million as a result. “That’s a $44,000 return for chief executives from McDonald’s and Neiman Marcus ferent “B” version, Neiman Marcus Direct measures how every dollar invested in site development,” he said. 26 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006

Financial Gray Market Presents Legal Challenge for Brands By Liza Casabona that lends them to being sold in “When those [luxury] goods president of intellectual proper- $600 billion in global sales, are unintended markets. While gray- are marketed in the off-price ty and licensing at New Balance. so pervasive today that it can be ray-market goods can de- market products hardly seem as stores, that undercuts the cachet From a consumer standpoint, nearly impossible to distinguish Gstroy a brand, ruin markets damaging to a brand as counter- that the brand has developed. gray-market goods are a seem- between the two kinds of products, and weaken retail relation- feit goods, the blurry legal lines So it undercuts the marketing, it ingly legitimate source for brand- according to industry sources. ships. Yet apparel and accesso- translate into a fi eld day for dis- undercuts their ability to extract ed goods. “People have an ex- With few avenues for legal ries manufacturers have little counters as well as an erosion of a premium price. Of course, it’s pectation of fi nding bargains, of action against the distribution legal recourse when it comes a brand’s equity. the premium price in the U.S. going to a Filene’s Basement or a of gray-market goods, branded to the sale of gray goods, expos- While technically a legal that’s creating the opportunity Marshall’s or a similar discounter companies will sometimes fi le ing flaws in today’s distribution source of designer goods for anyway,” Dunne said. and fi nding product there. How trademark infringement law- system and intellectual property off-price retailers such as Pricing isn’t the only issue. If that product gets there or how suits claiming that goods are protection efforts. it’s labeled, they don’t really care. counterfeit when they are really Sometimes called parallel im- They just see the fact that the gray market, Dunne said. ports, gray goods are legitimate Gray goods can ruin someone’s product is at a price that they can This results in a frenzy of products that are distributed afford,” said Angelo Mazza, part- lawsuits, even when there has through channels not authorized market.“ Your authorized retailers ner, Gibney, Anthony & Flaherty. been no crime. From the seller by their original manufacturer. However, gray-market goods or importer’s perspective, while The products, intended for sale get angry and stop dealing with you can cause problems for vendors they are legally within their outside the U.S., are often sold and consumers, especially in rights, defending a lawsuit is Stateside — and at lower price because you’re not controlling how your cases where legitimate gray- costly. Often companies that are points. An authentic designer market goods are mixed in with sued will back down because handbag manufactured for dis- goods are sold. counterfeit products. The fl ood their investment in the goods is tribution in Europe, for exam- of gray-market goods can also less than the cost of a lawsuit. ple, is considered “gray” if it is ” — Ed Haddad, New Balance weaken sanctions against coun- “It’s a perfectly legal trade, it sold in the U.S. instead. terfeits, said Mazza. can’t be stopped legally, but peo- “The problem of stopping Marshall’s, TJ Maxx and Annie any given market has an infl ux Counterfeit enforcement is ple can be intimidated by law- gray-market goods in the appar- Sez, luxury brands hardly want of gray goods, authorized, full- already a complicated and dif- suits of counterfeiting,” Dunne el area is almost impossible,” their products in stores where price retailers such as boutiques fi cult fi ght. Gray-market goods said. Few retailers want to be said Brian Brokate, partner, they have no control over mer- and department stores have muddy the water further by in- tainted by accusations of coun- Gibney, Anthony & Flaherty. chandising or pricing. little reason to continue selling creasing the volume of “ques- terfeiting in today’s market. Under current legal statutes, Luxury brands that charge the identical goods. tionable” shipments and posing Annie Sez, which is operated gray-market items are only illegal premium prices for their goods “Gray goods can ruin some- some sticky challenges in rela- by Big M, has been sued by sever- if there is a material difference don’t want their products in dis- one’s market. Your authorized tion to customs. al luxury brands in recent years, between the items being brought count stores, said Gerard Dunne, retailers get angry and stop deal- For example, if a buyer for including Polo Ralph Lauren, in from abroad and those manu- a lawyer who has represented ing with you because you’re not an off-price retailer ships a con- Gucci and Fendi Adele Srl for factured for distribution here. In both discounters and major controlling how your goods are tainer of gray-market designer alleged trademark violations. the apparel and accessories busi- brands in gray-market litigation, sold. It can [lead to] discount- branded handbags to the U.S., Recent lawsuits filed against nesses, though, products may be but now primarily represents ing and can really do damage to Customs inspectors may initially discounters like Wal-Mart and identical worldwide, a situation discounters such as Annie Sez. a brand,” said Ed Haddad, vice think it is a shipment of counter- Target by brands like Fendi and feit goods due to the size of the Coach could also be connected shipment, usually a red fl ag for to the purchase of gray goods. counterfeits. But once assured A lot of the gray-market prob- that many of these shipments are lem for apparel companies in the of authentic goods, Customs may U.S. stems from weaknesses in the start easing their inspections of policing of the overseas distribu- branded products, and in effect, tion system. It is important to have expose the market to more coun- control over foreign licensees and terfeit goods than ever before. retailers in particular, sources “A lot of times, Customs will said. Companies with overseas stop shipments and then try to manufacturing and distribution get information from companies need to think about placing re- about whether it is counterfeit or strictions on those entities regard- gray market and whether it should ing bulk sales of products and how be seized or let into the country,” product is distributed and dis- said Heather McDonald, partner posed of in general, sources said. with the law fi rm Baker Hostetler. — With contributions from Counterfeits, which generate Meredith Derby

FACTORING BY DESIGNSM Analysts See Changes For Wal-Mart Stores s a new, smaller format in Lynch analyst, asked in her re- IWal-Mart Stores Inc.’s fu- port if there was “some tweak ture, or perhaps a breakup of that could excite, such as small- the company? er box size or door location? We After Wal-Mart said last week don’t yet see it. Smaller doors Ask us for a Factoring that it would temper the rate of will pressure comps and cost By Design Plan. growth in the U.S., a Citigroup more to build, and new stores in Call Harold Dundish, SVP equity analyst said in a research existing markets tend to be high- at (212) 273-2988 note that she expects the retailer er margin and higher return.” to launch a new format in the U.S. Instead, Genereux said Wal- as a way to gain market share. In Mart should spin off ASDA and another research report from Sam’s and “focus on the mother A DIVISION OF IDB BANK Merrill Lynch, an analyst said ship” as well as on developing that, instead of a new format, Wal- markets overseas. Mart should spin off Sam’s Club “The best path we can think Empire State Building as well as its ASDA operations to of toward increasing the value of 350 Fifth Avenue unlock value in its stock. Wal-Mart’s publicly traded equi- New York, NY 10118 “We believe Wal-Mart will ty is a breakup of the company,” roll out another format in the Genereux said. “While a simple Western Regional Office: U.S. in 2007, which could be breakup analysis does not indi- 888 South Figueroa St., Suite 550 similar to the Bodega format in cate a big valuation ineffi ciency Los Angeles, CA 90017 Mexico based on the company’s here, we believe a breakup (310) 860-6330 success there with this format,” could be a path toward boosting said Deborah Weinswig, ana- the stand-alone Wal-Mart mul- IDB Bank is a registered service mark of Israel Discount Bank lyst at Citigroup, in a note after tiple and increase the value of of New York. Total assets exceed $9 billion. MEMBER FDIC Wal-Mart’s analyst meeting. all the company’s assets.” Virginia Genereux, Merrill — WWD Staff WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 27 WWD.COM

Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE Gift Cards Go Long Way at Retail Retailers 79.42 46.49 Abercrombie Abercrombie & Fitch& Fitch 19.3 107681 77.39 2.37 By Jeanine Poggi fi rst quarter of fi scal 2007. 33.01 18.05 Aéropostale Aeropostale 19.3 77430 28.96 -0.66 In addition, once in the stores, shoppers are 47.25 19.45 American American Eagle Eagle 22.3 106987 45.65 0.65 44.64 23.05 Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 22.4 92685 43.77 2.09 ift cards not only take a lot of the stress out of spending more than the value of their gift card. 26.86 13.05 Bebe Bebe 27.5 130459 24.28 -0.64 Gholiday shopping for consumers, but they are According to Archstone, 34 to 55 percent of con- 1.69 0.68 BlueflyBluefly - 2198 0.92 0.01 also boosting store sales for retailers well beyond sumers spend more at redemption than the value 38.60 15.55 Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 371.8 11571 36.15 -0.82 Christmas. of their card. 22.50 15.00 Caché Cache 29.4 13444 21.48 3.04 While the International Council of Shopping Butler added, “People are not exchanging 26.70 18.90 Cato Cato 15.3 8524 22.81 -0.37 Centers estimates gift-card purchases will be or returning as much after Christmas, and they 29.41 15.28 Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 25.6 11430 28.54 0.49 15.35 9.69 CharmingCharming Shoppes Shoppes 19.7 41302 14.83 0.07 between $30 billion and $40 billion this holi- have a reason to shop even after the holidays are 49.40 17.26 Chico’s Chico’s FAS FAS 21.8 106038 23.82 0.96 day season, a majority of the related profi ts will over.” 71.37 39.00 Children’s Children’s Place Place 27.2 23565 69.52 1.98 not appear in holiday sales fi gures. Retailers do 36.14 23.89 CVS CVS 19.5 317575 31.20 0.51 not record gift cards as a sale until they are re- 32.46 21.34 Deb Deb Shops Shops 15.9 701 27.55 0.99 deemed, leaving a hefty amount of sales for after 33.87 19.32 Dillard’s Dillard’s 14.5 41128 30.46 -0.07 the presents are unwrapped. This doesn’t extend the 19.84 12.10 Dollar Dollar General General 14.4 141287 13.82 0.02 As a result, holiday sales numbers might ap- 28.09 12.07 Dress Dress Barn Barn 17.5 35782 21.48 -0.43 “gift-giving season, but 47.86 22.83 eBay eBay 36.4 859534 32.07 1.58 pear softer. This “gift-card effect” increasingly 30.91 20.77 Family Family Dollar Dollar 23.3 88466 29.81 -0.20 propels sales into January and even February. 45.01 28.78 Federated Federated 16.1 251960 43.88 -0.44 The week after Christmas has traditionally [it] increases postholiday 28.00 18.74 Foot Foot Locker Locker 16.0 149700 23.58 0.58 been a period for returns and exchanges, with 20.84 15.91 Gap Gap 19.2 462989 20.72 1.42 most merchandise discounted to make room for business. 9.81 6.29 GottschalksGottschalks 35.4 713 9.31 0.32 spring shipments. Now there are more shoppers ” 57.20 25.22 Guess Guess 32.9 18460 55.09 0.99 — Dan Butler, National Retail Federation 1.24 0.25 Harold’sHarold’s Stores Stores - 62 0.54 0.00 using this period to shop for themselves, using 16.30 9.43 HotHot Topic Topic 32.4 101172 10.15 -0.79 gift cards. 77.76 47.25 J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 17.3 115578 76.25 1.39 As a result, more retailers are selling products Merchandising of the cards has also changed 74.44 42.78 Kohl’s Kohl’s 26.7 172974 72.23 1.38 at fuller price points, said Dan Butler, vice presi- over the past fi ve years. Gift cards are now pro- 29.74 18.81 Limited Limited Brands Brands 16.2 94425 29.23 0.64 dent of retail operation and merchandising at the moted at the point of sale as well as the point of 52.21 7.59 MothersMothers Work Work 63.9 6135 49.79 0.89 22.63 9.41 New New York York & &Co. Co. 20.0 23308 13.40 0.40 National Retail Federation. purchase, such as on end caps and adjacent dis- 49.52 31.76 Nordstrom Nordstrom 21.3 112026 46.83 -0.37 “This doesn’t extend the gift-giving season, but plays. The Internet is also a key distribution chan- 27.99 13.12 Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 12.0 87659 17.44 1.21 [it] increases postholiday business,” he said. nel for the cards. 43.49 32.16 Regis Regis 15.3 18281 37.12 -1.24 Archstone Consulting attributes the strong per- On Wal-Mart’s Web site, the retailer offers a va- 18.00 9.65 RetailRetail Ventures Ventures - 8289 16.91 0.06 formance of retailers in the fi rst half of 2006 to the riety of gift cards for every occasion of the year. 31.04 22.12 Ross Ross Stores Stores 20.4 56988 29.64 -0.13 popularity of gift cards in the holiday season of The company also offers a customized, photo gift 20.59 14.10 Saks Saks 25.9 104802 19.50 1.02 182.38 111.64 Sears Sears 24.0 101115 176.93 2.17 2005 and expects the trend to continue into the card for shoppers. 34.44 25.00 Stage Stage Stores Stores 21.5 12189 32.95 1.22 20.69 11.27 Stein Stein Mart Mart 18.6 12921 15.99 -0.22 21.24 13.34 Syms Syms 35.9 893 19.27 -1.43 31.00 17.30 Talbots Talbots 24.4 49446 28.53 -0.03 59.85 44.70 Target Target 20.4 266826 58.56 0.56 29.74 20.32 TJX TJX Cos. 18.1 157039 28.82 -0.43 20.78 8.75 United United Retail Retail Group Group 8.4 3775 18.83 -0.49 33.77 13.65 Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 25.6 183171 17.83 -0.51 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart Wal-Mart 18.8 1158111 50.73 1.36 6.83 4.15 WetWet Seal Seal - 33930 6.23 0.22 5.31 2.39 WilsonsWilsons Leather Leather - 3995 2.78 0.03 29.95 21.01 Zale Zale 25.4 16183 28.14 0.31 Vendors 51.96 41.99 Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 18.3 50583 50.37 0.43 33.26 24.33 Avon Avon 24.6 133811 29.20 -0.92 37.65 20.46 Benetton Benetton 48.7 696 37.20 0.48 43.23 32.16 Cherokee Cherokee 18.3 890 38.60 1.11 40.15 25.18 Coach Coach 28.5 325190 39.01 3.74 58.48 41.00 Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 17.0 14247 57.13 1.97 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 15.5 8141 17.37 -0.57 43.60 30.30 Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 26.9 132868 40.00 0.00 23.84 14.96 Fossil Fossil 23.4 13578 21.85 -0.36 15.30 6.33 G-IIIG-III 68.6 2900 15.10 2.48 25.00 11.76 Hampshire Hampshire Group Group 9.1 265 13.60 0.32 42.26 31.19 IFF IFF 19.5 23772 41.70 0.67 20.38 14.51 Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 26.1 3795 19.58 0.29 36.10 26.95 Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 15.4 52509 33.08 0.17 34.57 21.83 Kellwood Kellwood 32.5 8368 30.56 0.36 29.60 21.75 Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 19.0 3949 25.70 0.44 42.00 33.40 Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 14.6 57372 40.93 -0.03 8.79 4.91 MossimoMossimo 60.3 1118 8.38 -0.02 27.29 16.95 Movado Movado 22.2 5375 25.94 0.12 94.07 75.52 Nike Nike 18.0 86035 91.86 3.26 57.58 34.34 Oxford Oxford 18.7 10155 52.94 1.05 24.25 8.69 PerfumaniaPerfumania 3.3 9170 16.58 2.33 37.78 18.50 Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 18.3 4869 36.25 0.97 47.12 27.00 Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 17.2 28642 45.68 -0.55 4(2%!$ "2%!$ 72.18 45.65 Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 22.2 28427 70.82 3.35 15.06 11.00 Quiksilver Quiksilver 28.0 39000 13.92 0.14 3.95 0.76 RevlonRevlon - 28540 1.31 -0.03 44.70 16.33 Steve Steve Madden Madden 24.9 12318 43.48 2.56 4HEFASHIONWORLDTHRIVESON 2.20 0.86 TarrantTarrant 26.2 4240 1.28 -0.07 24.36 11.11 True True Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 20.4 19197 20.91 -0.94 78.57 50.44 VF VF Corp. Corp. 15.2 40291 74.63 -0.37 28.22 15.75 Warnaco Warnaco 31.5 14164 21.49 0.81 AHEALTHYSUPPLYOFMONEY )NFACTORING ASSET BASEDLENDING ANDRECEIVABLESMANAGEMENT 22ISTHEGOLD Weekly % Changes Stock Market Index (ending Oct. 27) STANDARD7EAREWIDELYKNOWNASAFORCEINFINANCINGFORTHEGARMENTINDUSTRY

Gainers Close Change #ANWEDOSOMETHINGFORYOU G-III 15.10 19.65 Composite Retailers Vendors Cache 21.48 16.49 452.!2/5.$3/,54)/.3\%80/24&!#4/2).'\30%#)!,):%$3%#52%$,%.$).' 1215.64 1203.64 1246.60 Perfumania 16.58 16.35 Coach 39.01 10.60 Pacific Sunwear 17.44 7.46 2OSENTHAL2OSENTHAL )NC Decliners Close Change 25.78 25.59 26.12 Hot Topic 10.15 -7.22 .%79/2+/&&)#% Syms 19.27 -6.91 "ROADWAY .EW9ORK .9  3PEAKTO*-ICHAEL3TANLEY Tarrant 1.28 -5.19 ,/3!.'%,%3/&&)#% Index base of 1000 is keyed to True Religion 20.91 -4.30 closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. 4HE7ARNER#ENTER /XNARD3TREET 3UITE7OODLAND(ILLS #!  3PEAKTO(ARRY&RIEDMAN Regis 37.12 -3.23 WWWROSENTHALINCCOMEMAILINFO ROSENFACTCOM 28 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 WWD.COM In Time for Plenty From Diva to Designer NEW YORK — When Tracy Reese got word NEW YORK — In true diva form, singer Gladys Knight launched from retailers that many women wanted to Plenty Frock her new lingerie line, Knightwear, on the stage of the Apollo buy Tracy Reese frocks but just couldn’t af- dresses for Theatre on Thursday. The collection is a collaboration with ford them, she whipped up Plenty Frock to spring. Ashley Stewart, who hosted the event — a charity gala to raise remedy the situation. money for Dress for Success, the Boys Choir of Harlem and the The designer differentiates the two labels Thurgood Marshall Scholarship Fund. by describing Tracy Reese as “uptown” and Ashley Stewart, an urban, plus-size retailer, approached Plenty Frock by Tracy Reese, an extension of Knight with an offer this past year to become one of the compa- her Plenty sportswear line, as “downtown.” ny’s “Great Women of Style” (a spokeswoman chosen yearly and Wholesale prices for Plenty Frock start at formerly held by other notables such as Mandisa, of “American $102 and peak at $159. Idol” fame). The 20 styles also will offer women an It soon became apparent that Knight longed to be more than easy way to look pulled together without just a pretty face for the brand. too much deliberation, Reese said. “I’m a Although Knight was unavailable for an interview, Ethan Shapiro, dawdler in the morning. I like to try things chief executive offi cer of Urban Brands Inc., parent of Ashley on. But the days when I have to be on time Stewart, explained how or have a meeting, I wear a dress. I usually Knightwear came to be. wear dresses on Mondays, because I have to “She apparently had been get the week started and can’t spend time thinking about [a lingerie trying on outfi ts.” line] for a long time,” said In fact, 90 percent of the Plenty Frock Shapiro. Knight felt “there collection is geared for daytime, Reese said. wasn’t any luxury looks like More casual than the Tracy Reese collec- this for people who would tion, Plenty Frock has a slew of minidresses be considered a plus-size. with lots of volume, playing off her ongoing She had this vision of a lin- Plenty bodies. The classic group consists of gerie line. So we said, ‘Let’s simple, solid red, black and white dresses, get to work.’ ” including a little white version with puff In particular, Knight sleeves and a back bow. In Reese’s “Daring” wanted her clothing to lineup, she features bright colors and the serve the African-American pretty fl oral prints for which she has become plus-size market. Knight known. Her “Feather” capsule plays on soft worked on every detail of colors, feather prints, little beaded accents the color and pattern and and metallic laces, all short and ranging collaborated with Ashley from strapless to bubbled to trapeze. Stewart executives on the This spring, the new label should gener- fi nal design. Shapiro said ate $1 million in sales, even though the col- she added her input. “She lection only ships to stores in March. Better wanted certain things.” In specialty store chains and independent bou- particular, Knight “thought tiques, including many Plenty customers, it should be very sensual, are expected to carry the collection. but not sexy, appealing but Noting that dresses comprise about 40 per- not revealing.” cent of her signature line, Reese said: “It’s In its entirety, Knight- everything we’re already about, so it made wear includes 15 to 20 perfect sense. I think dresses are here forev- different styles, primarily A gown and er. They are great for when you wake up and satin- or cotton-based lin- pajama have to get up and get out of the house fast gerie and nightwear which set from and don’t have time to coordinate anything.” will retail from $26.99 to Knightwear. — Rosemary Feitelberg $29.99. From shimmering CHRISTIAN GRATTAN PHOTO BY satin gowns to cotton paja- ma pants, the lingerie sets itself apart with an eye-popping color palette and wild animal prints. Knightwear will be offered in all of Ashley Stewart’s stores nationwide, beginning Wednesday. Much like Knight’s innumerable chart-topping albums, Shapiro says, “We’re projecting it’ll be a sellout.” — Lauren Benet Stephenson U.S., China Clash on Subsidies By John Zarocostas The U.S. cited a statement by China that said: “The govern- GENEVA — The U.S. locked ment has no policy whatsoever horns with China last week, that provides direct subsidy to charging that country has not textile and apparel companies.” given a full accounting of the The U.S. also asked why government support extend- China would provide new ed to industries and appears funds to encourage apparel to subsidize apparel and tex- textile exports. tile exporters. In response, China said Backed by the European it had not initiated any new Union, Japan and Turkey, the export subsidies for textiles, U.S. confronted China on the according to trade offi cials. issue during a session of the Instead, the government is set- World Trade Organization’s ting up a special fund to en- Committee on Subsidies & courage technical innovation Countervailing Measures. and upgrading of the sector in “The United States has spe- response to unfair treatment cifi c information on subcentral faced by Chinese exporters. government-level subsidy pro- But the U.S. countered that grams that appear to be export- China’s textile and apparel contingent and only available to industry does not need a new textile and apparel exporters,” fund as it is already highly the U.S. said in a written pre- competitive and added that sentation submitted in advance it continues to be concerned of Thursday’s meeting. “How about China’s loan policies in does the central government the banking sector. monitor provincial and local China said banks are now government policies targeting operating on commercial terms textiles and apparel export- and stated the government no ers to ensure compliance with longer pursues a credit policy China’s WTO obligations?” favoring certain sectors. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 29 WWD.COM Talking Turkey: Harvey Nichols Hits Istanbul

By Suna Erdem ISTANBUL — Harvey Nichols has launched its first store in increasingly fashion-hungry Turkey, quietly opening its doors earlier this month in the luxury Istanbul shopping mall Kanyon. Such is the potential Harvey Nichols and its Turkish partner Unitim see in Turkey’s growing fashionable set that there are also plans for another store in Istanbul and possibly two other Turkish cities by the end of the decade. With high- end malls opening across the city and luxury labels such as Burberry expand- ing, the spending power of the brand-con- scious is being eyed with anticipation. “There are 12 million to 14 million people in Istanbul, and the Bosphorus [the waterway that divides Europe and Asia through the city] is lined with mil- lionaires’ residences — if just the people living there shopped here, we would be fi ne,” said Brian Handley, store general manager of Harvey Nichols Istanbul. The unit in Turkey brings the number of Harvey Nichols stores worldwide up to 10, including units in London, Dublin, Leeds, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Brian Handley

Manchester in the U.K. and Ireland. UZEL T.KEREM PHOTOS BY Harvey Nichols chief executive Joseph The women’s fl oor of the new store. Wan said that if only the wealthiest 5 percent of the city’s population shopped developing markets. The agreement to displaying sparkly details and precious suits, Turkish women’s clothes just say, the store, it would be successful. The open the store, which involved an initial stones, are showcased like jewelry in a ‘Whoa! Look at me!’ ” new Harvey Nichols is projected to have investment of $13 million, in partnership walk-in glass enclosure. And the person- To tempt them there will be plenty of sales of at least $40 million in its fi rst with Unitim, was reached in just four al shopping area, which includes a bar Roberto Cavalli and Christian Lacroix, year, said Burc Cemiloglu, who heads up months, Cemiloglu said. and showers, is snuggled behind a wall of as well as Chanel, Fendi, Loewe, Unitim, the company that also brought “Istanbul is a world city. It is slowly crystal and glass. Balenciaga, Missoni and Michael Kors, in shirt label Thomas Pink to Kanyon and is proving worthy of its status,” he said. “That was meant to be wallpaper,” the women’s wear section. There also will the Turkish partner for Tommy Hilfi ger, Handley, who also has worked at Handley said. “But then the local crafts- also be Zac Posen, Turkish Cyprus-born Camper, Gas and Accessorise. Harvey Nichols in Manchester and men told us what they could do instead…. Hussein Chalayan and Pollini by Turkish In all, there are some 300 brands in Birmingham, said he believes with its Just by using local craftsmen, who are designer Rifat Ozbek. A younger, edgier the three-story, 86,100-square-foot store, 10th store the company has created the very skilled, we can afford to do so much casual section contains labels such as several of which are new to Turkey or are most beautiful one. Women’s changing more than in most other stores.” Edun, True Religion, Hugo Boss Orange introducing a new concept. rooms are marked not with a simple sign He expects the clientele here to be on Label and Seven For All Mankind. Describing his enthusiasm for Harvey but a television screen on a column show- the fl ashier side, similar to the Harvey Salvatore Ferragamo has a shop-in-store Nichols’ London fl agship — which he re- ing a women’s fashion show. Hats are dis- Nichols in Manchester, rather than the near the entrance. Accessories include ferred to as a “school where we learned played on a sculpture made of a geomet- more understated customers of the fl ag- Bottega Veneta and Luella, while the airy quality, aesthetics, beauty and luxury” ric leaf motif that recurs throughout the ship in London. “In Manchester, they cosmetics area includes brands such as when he was a university student — store. Cosmetic counters are decorated tend to be bolder than London — they Jo Malone, La Mer and Laura Mercier, Cemiloglu said he acted quickly when he with rows of handblown glass baubles are not afraid to try things,” he said. “And alongside names including Lancôme, heard the company was turning toward dripping from the ceiling. Shoes, many while Turkish men tend to dress in sober Armani and Chanel cosmetics. 30 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

EVP/Director of Merchandising VP SOURCING - BEDDING Excellent Opportunity Leading Consumer Products Company seeks qualified Well established, 25 year plus fast paced junior/contemporary and experienced Sourcing Vice President to direct and fashion accessory company seeks aggressive, experienced, oversee sourced design goals for bed products. Includes take charge executive possessing excellent skills managing resource structure, costing, sampling and follow up. You creative and sales personnel. Must be able to identify trends, will work with Product Managers and the Design team to and key items. The successful candidate must have the 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. help identify and execute potential product opportunities ability to interpret those trends into saleable product High ceilings - Excellent Condition to enhance customer product assortments as well as assortments for various tiers of retail accounts. Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 proactive product development of new and innovative Search www.manhattanrealty.com product groups. This position requires the necessary RESPONSIBILITIES INCLUDE: Search For Space In Garment Center skills to make sourcing decisions that increase corporate Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee • Manage design team and design timeline. www.midcomre.com advantage while reducing and mitigating corporate risk. • Create focus for trends, key items, and retailer and Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Undergraduate degree required. Candidate must have showroom presentations. Showrooms & Lofts 7+ years product sourcing and logistics experience, • Develop along with the design and sales team, retailer BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS applicable global textile/product experiences a plus. specific assortments by product category. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Qualified individual must be familiar with manufacturing • Present trends and major programs to key retail accounts and product sourcing agreements. This position requires along with sales executives. SOHO: 413 W. BROADWAY excellent leadership, management, problem solving, 2,200 SF. Full Floor. Betw Prince & Travel a must, Europe & Domestic. Retail experience a plus. Spring. Call Jason Kling: 212-880-0431. organizational, planning, communication and negotiation HELMSLEY-SPEAR, Inc. skills. Multi-task, detail oriented with great interpersonal Minimum 3 years of experience in the accessory area preferred. skills. Domestic and international travel required. Full compensation pckg includes salary (commensurate with experience), bonus, 401K, & health benefits. Please send resume with salary requirements to: [email protected] Please email: [email protected] Showroom & Office Sublet 37th & 7th Ave. 3000 Sq. Ft. Showroom & Office - Fully Built. Rent below current BUYER - JEWELRY market price. Call 646-752-8727 DESIGNER GRAPHIC DESIGNER Est’d Missy Sportswear line seeks Mitchells/Richards/Marshs, SENIOR HANDBAG / ACCESSORY DESIGNER exp’d designer. Must be proficient Childrenswear co seeks Full time has a F/T lead jewelry buyer Graphic designer for 0-6x girls Independent, experienced individual sought. Must sketch, spec., and in CAD work & all phases of design, position available. Responsi- be organized & very detail oriented. licensing dept. Must have 3-5 organize product development soup to nuts. Material + hardware tech bilities include the daily line years exp in childrens/ licensing knowledge essential. Photoshop and Illustrator desirable. Sourcing in Italy Email:[email protected] or fax res: 212-768-1858. buying for our jewelry depts. market and must be proficient in experience and Italian language a+++. Self-starters only - no cry babies Jewelry buying and sales exp Illustrator and Photoshop CS. please. Please email cover letter and resume with Senior Designer Design Must be creative and be able to a must. This is a salaried spot latest trends. Responsibilities in subject line to: [email protected] Senior Designer position requiring Saturdays. BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Fast paced, high energy, growing include both Creative & Technical Passion, ability to adapt design. Salary is based on exp. A high-end contemporary handbag Designer $80-90K Current exp in private Women’s Apparel Co seeks: business looking to build a leading ASSISTANT COLORIST label updated Jr. driven missy Min 3 - 5 years exp in Contemporary and learn, with a complete Active / Sleepwear design. Includes Please fax resume to: brand of quality handbags with the sportswear.Midtwn co. Call 973-564-9236 (212) 967-8121Attn: Aimee right financial partner. The 2 co-owners Intimate apparel company seeking or Email [email protected] supervising designers & giving clear customer centric focus must bring over 30 yrs. of combined experience entry-level candidate who loves working direction to patternmakers, designers, be your culture. Fax resume Email:[email protected] & proven success in the fashion industry. in a high-paced environment. Will assist Designer/Access./$75-100K+ production & sales to meet deadlines. We are looking to secure financing & with color and product development Women’s SPORTBAGS Create collection from color to end to: (203) 291-0147. EOE. would consider an investment proposal processes such as lab-dips, fabric and For major NYC access. Co. Branded product. Must be self-starter and PATTERNMAKER or loan arrangement. We are prepared trim evaluation and sample garment better sport line dept store/better multi-tasker. Great oppty for growth Established evening dress mftr seeks to present you with a business plan review for national brands. Candidate sporting retailers/ urban look. Req: and excellent benefit package. Email MANAGER experienced patternmaker. Responsi - along with samples of our collection. must be detail oriented with strong strong Illust/Photo skills., graphics, /Fax resume: [email protected] bilities incl. garment specs, measuring Please contact Maria Decker at: organizational skills & ability to effec- sport bag experience preferred. or 212-827-3344 Attn: DS OPERATIONS and communication with overseas (201) 755-2991 or tively prioritize. Must be able to interact E-mail resume: [email protected] Fast Growing women’s sportswear factories. Fax to: 212-398-0654 E-mail: [email protected] with, and professionally communicate (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)914-337-3660 company seeking responsible and EDI Coordinator hardworking individual. Must multi- issues to overseas factories. Microsoft Seeking experienced EDI Coordinator. PATTERNMAKERS / Excel and Outlook proficiency a must. task. Duties include overseeing import, Processing and troubleshooting of all shipping, logistics, customer service Competitive salary & benefits. Interested EDI documents and maintaining QRS SAMPLEMAKERS candidates should send their resume to: DESIGNER and credit. Min. 3 yrs of experience. High-end Designer label seeks talented and GXS catalogs. Email resume to: LIC location. Email cover letter and [email protected] Assistant Designer [email protected] individuals with the following skills: with “Assistant Colorist” in subject line. Major Women’s Outerwear Co seeks resume to Leah at : • Draping & Patternmaking technical EDI Coord/Order Entry-2+ yrs w/ an [email protected] 1st sample garments. Assistant Merchandiser - Neckwear assistant designer for fabric and trim research, development and production apparel importr/deal w/whse/do ASNs/ or fax to 212-730-7872 • Fittings with Designer & 2nd sample garments. The Aron Group approval. Overseas communication. order entry/allocate/Excel nec. $37-40K Merchandiser Immed Highly motivated, well organized creative Excellent computer skills. Highly Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 • Cut & Sew muslins & Final / $85,000 Finished garments. CONSULTING individual to report directly to the Pres. organized. Please E-mail resume to Menswear [email protected] Grader Marker Manager $70-80K. • Tailoring skills. APPAREL/INTIMATE APPAREL in Manhattan. Responsibilities include Current exp in womenswear. Supervise [email protected] planning & purchasing, sales assistance or you can fax 1-212-764-7057. • Finalizing design prototypes Exp’d industry leader / turnaround three people on Gerber. Midtown. for Production. executive provides full range of & maintenance of sample libraries. Email [email protected] AGCY Strong organization communication, Office Adminstrator Freelance to Full-Time positions domestic and international services Designer - Dancewear Great Opportunity Madison Ave, Ladies available for individuals with a including: overall business analysis; & personal computer skills a must, Graphic Artist $BOE. Current exp in neckwear background preferred. Fluency West. PA Dancewear Co seeks exp’d Sleepwear & Robe Mfg Seeking office modern & conceptual vision. new venture development; marketing urban 7-14 girls. Full time perm mgr w/ multi task abilities Excl Comm. in Mandarin a plus, but not mandatory. designer. Gerber Sys. 1st pattern / position. Midtown growing kidswear Email resume to: [email protected] strategies; sourcing. Action-oriented grading a must. Reply to: skills necessary to work w/ Sales dept. recommendations. Highest reputation. The company offers a competitive salary company. Email [email protected] plus healthcare & a 401(K) plan. Box#M 1039 production Dep. A/R & A/P dept. EDI & Personal/Exec Assistant Inquiries confidential. c/o Fairchild Classified HEAD DESIGNER/to $150K Retail Link exp. Bi Lingual aplus. Contact: [email protected] Please e-mail responses to: For Liquor/Fashion/Design/Art CEO [email protected] 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl STREETWEAR Please fax resume: 212-684-5358 $60-70K salary + 25% bonus w/ travel. New York, NY 10017 For innovative Young Men’s div. of See: www.recruitny.com/wwd Luxury Handbag mjr. NYC apparel co. Req: knowl. of Operations Manager ASSIST & ASSOC DESIGNERS the Latino mkt., strong design/trend PLANNER ASST ...... 35-45K Large, trend forward private label High end mid size Acc manufacturer Patterns/Samples sense, Young men’s “streetwear” seeks hands on exec to oversee all 1 yr+ Retail buying /planning exp For 40+ yrs. Quality-driven. company seeks indv’ls w/ excellent DESIGNER backgd.,mid price pt., Illust/Photoshop. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 hand sketch & strong Illustrator/ back office functions (data entry,cust English-fluent. Helen @ (917) 331-0317 For boys sportswear size 4-18. Must be Email resume: [email protected] serv, inventory ctrl, factory personnel [email protected] Photoshop/ communication skills. able to merchandise and design line. Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 www.srisearch.com Must be a highly organized team player. management etc). Must have min 5yrs Garment construction & color eye Responsibilities include travel to factories Operations exp plus full command of PATTERNS, SAMPLES, necessary. Pls bring resume & portfolio. overseas. Fax resumes to 212-730-9705 KNITWEAR DESIGNER EDI & Dept Store regulations. A proven We are large corporate co. & offer Sportswear mfg seeks creative Knitwear track record in a leadership position PRODUCTIONS excellent benefits. Please fax resumes to: Designer for high volume, fast paced for MFG, prof attitude with exec verbal PRODUCTION ASSISTANT All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. HR Associate at 212-556-5369/5431 mfg. Position requires Development, & written communication skills a Major apparel company seeks detail Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Design Tech packages, shopping, must. No travel req. Would interface w/ DESIGNER dom and foreign production. oriented and organized assistant for Lge Importer Seeks Jr. Slpwr Designer knowl of Prima Vision & Excel. Line BABY PHAT concepts from start to finish; work Email resume w/ salary req to: busy production dept. Responsibilities For a Once in a Lifetime Oppty. $70K [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Designer & Graphic Designers Needed [email protected] with production. include PO entry, work order entry and Infants through 16 Fax resume which must include QC tracking plus follow up & handling PRODUCTIONS Email: [email protected] salary reqs to: 212-704-0576 attn RI ORDER ENTRY of all packing and carton markings. Must Full service shop to the trade. Order entry person needed. MUST have good computer and communication Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. have min. 2 years exp in order process- BOOKKEEPER DESIGNER Ladies/Men’s Tech Designers skills. AS 400 experience preferred. Large apparel co. seeks designers w/ 4 ing for major retailers. Excel comm/ Patterns/Samples/Production ADS knowledge is a plus Major apparel company seeks HEAD yrs exp. in knit/ woven/ denim apparel. follow up/ computer skills req’d. Please fax resumes to: 212.730.9705 Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms Fax resume to: 212-869-7044 DESIGNER for newborn, infant, toddler Must create specs & know construction Please fax resume to: 212-279-0131 Any Style - Full Service boys and girls-private label. Candidate details. Team players with strong com- PRODUCTION ASST Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 with experience targeting mass merchants munication skills to work with over- CONTEMPORARY/JR DESIGNER seas offices. Proficiency in Illustrator Domestic & import women’s apparel co. Large apparel co seeks expd Fashion like Wal-mart a plus. Individual must and Photoshop required. Competitive seeks detail oriented comp. lit. & organ- Forward Contemp/Jr Designer for be organized and be able to work in a salary and full benefits. Patternmaker $100-125k. Current exp ized asst. Fax resumes to: 212-869-5393 PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD private label contemporary line. Must fast paced environment. Excellent salary Fax resumes to : HR Assoc. 212-556-5462 in designer to couture high end tailored be on-top of current retail & fabric womens suits. First patterns. Must hang High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- trends. Fast paced environment and benefits. Fax resume to 212-730-9705. sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Luxury Product Development w/ Christian Dior, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Production Coordinator requires Illus & Photoshop exp and DESIGNERS & ASST OR ASSOC and Production Manager Donna Karan, etc. Call 973-564-9236 or Eric Javits Inc. offers competitive salary & excellent 1) Dsgnr Boys 8/20-yg mens c/s knit tops Email: [email protected] benefits. Please fax resume to: Quickly expanding luxury brand in NYC Fast paced better handbag co. located in 2) Asst or Assoc Girls 7/16 Jr. driven seeks person w/ a minimum of 3-5 yrs. HR Associate at 212-556-5462 Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY LIC seeks person w/ min 3-5yrs exp to exp. in luxury product development. Patternmaker 65K support all phases of overseas produc- Excellent sourcing abilities a must. Knit product, fast pace Brooklyn tion. Prod development and sourcing COST ANALYST Responsibilities include: working closely Call Janet 727-772-8717 Knowledge of Knits and Wovens, exp a plus. Key responsibilities incl DESIGNER Sr./BOYS/to $100K+ w/ co. Creative Director & Director of [email protected] developing specs, measuring/evaluating Domestic & Import. Must understand Prod’n to create 4 seasonal collections labor breakdowns, yardages and trims. For mjr. NYC apparel co. Design line samples, recording of all styling of Fashion Basics, Req: strong Boy’s a year, from inception to execution. changes and communicating them to Better Wmn’s Sportswear Business Computer literate (Excel Proficient), Excellent organization & follow-up detail oriented and follow-up skills. denim collection backgd. ,mass mkt. Patternmaker $70-80K. Current exp in factories. Computer proficiency/strong For Sale. Well est’d NYC base business expr. Excl. Illust/.Photoshop skills. skills imperative. Graphic design a plus. mens or womens woven dress shirts. organizational and follow up skills a w/large existing customer base & exp’d. Fax resume w/ Salary requirements Please fax cover letter & resume to: to 212-714-9355. Email resume: [email protected] Willing to relocate to Northeast Penn. must. Email resume w/ salary req to: sales force. Pls call: 646-752-8727 Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 (212) 755-1563 E-mail [email protected] AGCY [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2006 31

Technical Designer Childrens/Ladies importer seeks a skilled applicant with min 5 years exp. in knits/sweaters spec development, Director of Sales - NY Women’s Contemporary Manufacturer/Retailer is hiring: LeSportsac, the leading worldwide brand of nylon bags, garment const, fitting, patterns, grad- travel accessories, and luggage since 1974 has the ing. Must have good communication Branded & private label Legwear, following career opportunities at the select locations; skills to work with overseas factories Accessory & Intimate Apparel co. S A L E S A S S O C I A T E S and retailers. Computer skills a must. seeks Director of Sales. Please fax or email resumes to: €Aventura Mall- Aventura, Florida € 212-658-9149/ [email protected] Contacts in dept. & specialty Seeking energetic sales associates to work at our NY Boutique. € Fashion Show Mall- Las Vegas, Nevada € chains a must. E-mail resume: Must love fashion, have an established client book, love to [email protected] Seeking strong, professional, and experienced Technical Designer sell, enjoy building relationships with customers and provide individuals to fill the following positions; Jonden Knit Sportwear Co. seeks exp. ASSISTANT ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE superior customer service. FT and PT positions available. person, Bklyn warehouse.Gerber Accumark. Salary comm.w/ exp. High profile fashion showroom seeks €Store Managers € Sales Associate in NY. Must be efficient, € Assistant Managers € Email: [email protected] or Please e-mail resume to [email protected] Fax: (718) 369-4927. advanced Excel & retail math proficient. € Full Time Sales Specialists € Salary, bonus, health insurance, 401K trinaturk.com € Part Time Sales Specialists € & profit sharing. Pls. email resume: Technical Designer [email protected] € Stock positions € Jonden Knit Sportwear Co. seeks exp. person, Bklyn warehouse.Gerber SALES CONSULTANT a.testoni SALES ANALYST Retail exp., strong customer service skills, and desire Accumark. Salary comm.w/ exp. Seeking strategic & analytical thinker to grow are required. Please email your resume and Email: [email protected] or w/ strong communication skills for a STORE MANAGER & Intimate Apparel company seeks expe- salary history with subject header specific to the position Fax: (718) 369-4927. consultative sales position at NYC SALES ASSOCIATE rienced and motivated individual to headquarters. Min. 2 yrs. experience. manage Retail Sales. Must be analytical, Italian leather goods brand is seeking you seek to: [email protected] www.bumbleandbumble.com proficient on Retail Link, and able to Technical Immed a motivated professional to run our create and maintain weekly sales reports We will only contact those candidates for further Childrens 5th Ave. boutique. The ideal candidate under deadlines. Strong excel skills consideration. Equal Opportunity Employer. $40 to $60K Sales Executive must have 3+ years of retail experience required. Competitive salary & benefits. To learn more, visit us at lesportsac.com [email protected] Great Opportunity Madison Ave, Ladies in selling premium goods, strong com- Interested candidates should send their Sleepwear & Robe Mfg in business munication skills, leadership abilities, resume to: over 40 yrs & continuing to grow seeks and excellent computer skills. Excellent [email protected] THE NATION IS BACK the right Sales Pro. whom is results benefits. References will be requested. with “Sales Analyst” in the subject line. PNB NATION is back & looking for a few oriented & very dynamic. Territory will E-mail to: [email protected] STORE PLANNING / VISUAL MERCHANDISING MANAGER good people. Exciting opportunities exist cover Specialty & Dept. Store market. in merchandising & design as follows: Contacts preferred. Fax: 212-684-5358 Van Cleef & Arpels, a leader in Luxury Jewelry is seeking a Store Planning / Merchandising/Design Asst - Work with Visual Mgr. The ideal candidate will liaison between vendors, contractors Merchandise Mgr. on development & SALES EXECUTIVE presentation. Awesome computer skills a & retail/wholesale stores for all store planning & visual projects. Coordi- Lisa International must. Experienced Sales Exec. to sell ladies nate and manage various phases of new/temp stores, remodeling / reloca- Freelance Designer - Work with Design Sportswear, Sweaters &Knits. Min 5 yr exp. director on seasonal needs. Bring your Please send resume to: fax S. Sadaka at tions and general maintenance. Implement, train and reinforce all visual creativity to the new NATION. 212.302.5184 or email merchandising directives. Store network includes North & South America, Resumes to: [email protected] [email protected] Canada & the Caribbean. Travel required. Min 3 years exp. - luxury goods or Fax: (212) 904-1238 SALES MGR. INT’L - USA (GA / FL), Africa, Middle East, Asia, Central/ environment preferred. Competitive salary plus full benefits package. - VF INTIMATES - South America, Caribbean. MBA/ equiv. + 5 yrs. recent sales mgmt exp. For Joseph Fax resume w/ sal req to (212) 265-5858 or e-mail [email protected] VF Intimates, LP, a division of Direct international sales & marketing Seeking an enthusiastic VF Corporation, the world’s largest for mass market mfr./dist. of perfumes SALESPERSON Sales apparel company, has two immediate & cosmetics; conduct contract negotia- Production Coordinator openings in our New York Office. tions, bid requests, credit/collections, for the Florida & Southeast Territory. Large private label co seeks 2-3 yrs Planet Sox ® Associate Product Merchandiser product conversion; oversee shipping/ exp. Must have ability to interface Dynamic company looking for an Merchandising skills a must, BA or import/export activities; attend trade If you love selling, please Fax your between design & production teams. experienced salesperson to build equivalent combination of education shows; analyze trends, determine target resume to: 310-842-7916 Team player w/ excellent organizational our Generic, Branded, Character and experience (textiles, design, markets, develop campaigns, establish skills. Will monitor deadlines, traffic, business at major accounts. fashion merchandising) quotas/goals; supervise staff; prepare approvals, & communicate w/ overseas Email resume to: [email protected] reports. Substantial travel to assigned offices. Competitive salary & full benefits. Marketing Analyst 1-2 years in brand marketing / regions required. Apply to: S. Fishel, Fax resumes to: HR Assoc. Jean-Philipe Fragrances, LLC / Inter 212-556-5369/5431 SAMPLEMAKER management. Bachelor’s in HANDBAGS Marketing required; MBA preferred. Parfums, Inc., 551 5th Ave. NY, 10176 Handbag Mfr. is seeking an exp’d. Qualified candidates should send their Sales $OPEN BOE. Current strong exp Production Coordinator SAMPLEMAKER. Call: 212-239-4650 resume and salary requirements via in selling kids sportswear. Min. vol- Major apparel company seeks Production email to: [email protected] ume 4-5 mil. Established well known Coordinator. Responsibilities include SLEEPWEAR DESIGNER For more information about our firm. Email [email protected] delivery tracking, preparing production company, please visit our website at: Intimate Apparel company seeks expe- www.vfc.com status reports, sending out pricing and rienced, motivated, designer for junior SALESPERSONS order details, creating seasonal design sleepwear line, Looking for creative An Equal Opportunity Employer Quality Label & Tag Co. seeks Sales- books and providing administrative individual able to forecast trends, develop persons with following in garment VP or Director line & work with graphic art department. industry. Global distribution, Quickest support to team. Candidate must be Warehouse Manager response in industry. Fax: (212) 244-4397 of Knitwear proficient with Outlook/Excel and posses Must be able to interface at all levels with various departments. Competitive Apparel co seeks individual w/ min 5 Knitwear expert seeks F/T excellent communication skills. Must years exp managing inventory, pick / SALES REP salary & benefits. Interested candidates Trimming Co. seeks rep with a follow- high level position. Trend be detail oriented. should send their resume to: pack, shipping/billing operation. Fax resume & salary req to 212-289-3932 or ing. Must be personable, energetic & boards, forecasting, design FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 [email protected] organized. Salary+Comm. Fax resume: with “Sleepwear Designer” in subject line. e-mail: [email protected] & merchandising. 23 yrs exp 212-564-0090 in creative & technical svcs. Production Coordinator SPEC TECH [email protected] NYC based apparel company is seeking detail oriented individual to join our Great Opportunity! Production Department. Responsibilities Great Company! Sales Rep Seeks New Challenge will include daily communication with Leading Intimate Apparel Mfg seeks A true heavy hitter! West Coast based overseas factories and following-up on exp’d & highly organized Spec Tech for kids rep ready to make a move. Solid purchase orders and sample submits. Ladies, Men’s & Kids products. Resp contacts with most all major dept, spe- Competitive salary and benefits. Can- incl: daily communication w/ overseas cialty chains and off price retailers. I didates should email their resumes to: office & factories. Runs fittings with come highly regarded from the market. [email protected] the ability to translate changes necessa- I am a self-starting, dynamic, logical, with “Production Coordinator” in subject. ry to specifications. Must possess tech- personable and ultimate team player. I Production Immed nical knowledge, flat sketching and be will be in New York the week of Nov. 5th. $50 to $60K computer literate. Strong follow-up & Must be discreet. I can be contacted at: Great Companies analytical skills along w/ bra exp man- [email protected] [email protected] datory. Knowledge of spec / design packages mandatory. Exp w/ Walmart, JCP and KMart a plus. Fax resume, attn. B. Farrell (212) 842-4032. EOE. SWIMWEAR DESIGNER Large apparel co seeks exp’d designer Production/QC Asst for private label swimwear line. Must Nanette Lepore seeks highly motivated be able to work in a fast paced envi- indiv. for entry level production/ QC ronment & have a great eye for color assistant. Need knowl of garment trends and fabric design. Requires construction & specs as well as com- Illus and Photoshop exp and offers puter skills. Up to 2 yrs fashion/prod competitive salary and excellent bene- experience or new fashion/prod college fits. Please fax resume to: graduate. Fax resume to: 212-947-5651 HR Associate at 212-556-5462 Production Sourcing Mgr to $125K. Tech Designer-$50-60K. Current exp in Current strong exp in better to bridge putting tech pkgs together to be sent womens market required. Domestic to far east. Strong in sewing construction. plus overseas. Well known brand. Computerized. Long Island City, E-mail [email protected] AGCY Queens loc. Email [email protected] PUBLIC RELATIONS COORDINATOR For int’l couture fashion designer based TECH DESIGNER/ on Madison Ave. Max. 5 yrs. exp. pitching NY Fashion press. College degree req’d. ASST. DESIGNER Local & int’l travel, MAC & Photoshop Major woman’s special occasion design exp. a +. E-mail resume in confidence house seeks highly qualified, organized Attn: Mart at [email protected] & creative person with min. 3 yrs. exp. QC Mgr $OPEN BOE. Current exp in Must be computer proficient! Become outerwear production QC involved with part of our talented team! E-mail resume: fit, fabric performance, counter samples. [email protected] Supervise tech designers. Inspection + evaluation of factories WW. Extnsv Technical Asst Designer travel. Email [email protected]. Major Women’s Outerwear Co seeks technical assistant to designer on SALES - N/I PLAYWEAR OPEN $ production level. Highly organized. Growing company seeks top level sales Knowledge of garment construction, professional for Department store lines. patterns & specs, etc. Overseas com- Infant background a must. munication and follow up, excellent A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. computer skills. Please E-mail resume 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 to [email protected] or you can fax 1-212-764-7057.