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Home , Basil Brown, Bucklesham, Martin Carver, Sutton Hoo

Published by The Society Saxon No. 54 January 2012

Treasures from Sutton Hoo, The Press, 2011, 48 pp. 50 colour illustrations, pb £4.99, ISBN 978 0 7141 2825 2 Of coins and treasure The British Museum has published a new picture book of Sutton Hoo treasures that makes a very useful introduction for visitors and a handy reference for guides. It is written by Dr Gareth Williams, the curator of early medieval coinage in the British Museum’s Department of Coins and Medals. Dr Williams will be giving the Society’s Memorial Lecture in Woodbridge on Saturday 12 May. His subject will be Coins, Hoards and but Rædwald remains the favourite candidate. Precious Metals in the Age of Sutton Hoo. The interpretation of the dating evidence The interpretation of the crucial dating of the coins often depends on comparison evidence of the coins in mound 1 is changing. with continental hoards of Frankish coins Research in the 1970s moved the dating back and the dates of their import into . from the mid to no later than The importance of gold and silver as part of 617, pointing to a burial date of 625, suitable a recognised value system, and the symbolic for Rædwald. More recent work, writes Dr significance of treasures like the Sutton Hoo Williams in his new booklet, ‘suggests a more - literally a prince’s ransom - cautious approach’. ‘It seems unlikely that the are all part of a new understanding of the latest coins in the hoard could date from any burial deposit. To whet our appetite for Dr earlier than c.610 or much later than c.635.’ Williams’s lecture, Mark Mitchels, the first The surprising wealth of the Staffordshire editor of Saxon, will be talking rather more Hoard discovered in 2009 allows the generally about Treasure Hoards of East possibility of the burial in mound 1 of lesser Anglia, following our AGM at Sutton Hoo kings, like Rædwald’s sons Rægenhere and on 24 February. Details for both lectures are Eorpwald, killed respectively in 617 and 627, on the back page. Sutton hoo: A swedish perspective A Swedish perspective The Society held its seventh conference on Sunday 11 September 2011 at the Waterfront Building in . Sponsored by the Royal Gustav Adolf Academy of and generously facilitated by University Campus , it featured six distinguished specialists, including four from Swedish universities, who gave us Sutton Hoo: a Swedish Perspective.

Our speakers outside the visitors’ centre at Sutton Hoo the day before the conference (left to right): Professor Neil Price, Dr Torun Zachrisson, Professor Frands Herschend, Dr John Ljungkvist, Professor Anne-Sofie Gräslund, with Angus Wainwright. Photo Dr Rosemary Hoppitt (all other photos Nigel Maslin)

Paul Mortimer’s retinue topped and tailed the day with greeting and farewell

Dr Sam Newton (left) with Paul Mortimer, admiring a reconstruction The details of the warriors’ attire fascinated the delegates throughout of the Sutton Hoo lyre the day.

2 Saxon 54 A question for Professor Neil Price (right) and Dr John Ljungkvist. After a welcome from chairman Mike Argent, Neil opened our conference with An Eye for , demonstrating that the late age Roman and Swedish peoples were symbolically altering the eyes of their political and military leaders: “Sutton Hoo and Sweden are ideologically linked”, he said. John discussed the development of the élite burial sites of and Valsgärde, visited by the Society two years ago (see Saxon 50).

Professor emerita Anne-Sofie Gräslund lecturing on the graves of Valsgärde, a project on which she is working with John Ljungkvist

Professor Frands Herschend’s surprisingly amusing lecture illuminated the way in which two of the Valsgärde graves in particular, Dr Torun Zachrisson investigated the presence from the 640s and 650s, would have been of exotic Byzantine Merovingian-period visited regularly before they were covered up, artefacts in the élite cremation burials of becoming a metaphor for death amid the life Afternoon tea in the foyer followed an Gamla Uppsala in the 6th and 7th centuries of the society at that time excellent selection of buffet lunch dishes

Our president, Lord Cranbrook (right) closed the sell-out conference, after a conclusion by (second right). Remembering the ways in which Rupert Bruce-Mitford’s publication of the in the 1970s drew on the contemporaneous Swedish sites, Angela asked ‘where next?’, suggesting how Mrs John Ljungkvist examining the metal working demonstration much is still to be learnt from comparative studies of the archaeological record. www.suttonhoo.org 3 In the steps of St Augustine

Listening to our English Heritage guide in the east end of the Norman nave of St Augustine’s Abbey, where the plan of the underlying Anglo-Saxon church of St Peter and St Paul is also marked out

Our second stop was within easy walking distance. At first sight, St Augustine’s Abbey is a typical ‘Min. of Works’ landscape mainly of preserved wall footings, but it held surprises. Beside the Martin Taylor in Bertha’s chapel in St Martin’s church. All photos Nigel Maslin standing Romanesque north wall of the later Your editor joined the Society’s autumn excursion - a coach trip to Canterbury monastery, we walked through the area of – on the first day of October last year, a surprisingly hot Saturday. the vestibule and narthex of the early 7th century church of St Peter and St Paul, into It is a unique experience to walk into Queen Bertha used to pray in the simple rectangular nave. There in the an English country church and see an St Martin’s, continues (I.26), northeast corner lay the original place of inscription reading, In the Sixth Century an old church built during the Roman Augustine’s burial. Beside it, under a shelter, Queen Bertha, with her Chaplain Bishop occupation. We were guided round it was the wall of the Porticus of St Gregory, Liudard and St Augustine worshipped by Martin Taylor, author of the church built along the north wall of the church as in this Church. We were in St Martin’s, guide book we bought, The Cradle of side chapels to accommodate burials, in this on a low hillside in Canterbury with a English . He pointed out case the first six archbishops of Canterbury. direct view of the cathedral tower half a the walls of Bertha’s chapel, which form Along the south wall originally lay the mile away, the first stop on our autumn the western part of the chancel of the early kings of Kent, their burial places since excursion to Canterbury, ‘in the steps of St present-day church. It came as a shock obliterated but still commemorated. Augustine’. to realise that we were in an extant, It was a very hot day – up to 29˚C – St Martin’s is billed as the oldest functioning church that predates the so after a picnic lunch we were pleased church in continuous use in the English- reintroduction of Christianity into to seek the cool of Canterbury Cathedral speaking world, a part of the Canterbury England by Augustine’s papal mission itself, with the most energetic taking World Heritage site. As Bede records in 597. What happened when Augustine their third guided tour in succession. (Historia Ecclesia I.25), Bertha was a arrived, you can read in Bede I.25, The afternoon concluded with Evensong Christian Frankish princess, who had where he also tells us that St Martin’s in the choir, before the two and a half married king Æthelbert of Kent (in the was the place where the mission preached hour coach trip back to Sutton Hoo, with 580s, when he was still heir) on condition until Æthelbert’s conversion, an event our thanks to the indisposed Robert Allen that she could continue to practise her that had taken place by 601. “I can’t for setting it up, treasurer Jonathan Abson Christian faith. Bishop Liudard came with think he would have been baptised for the organisation, and chairman Mike her as confessor. anywhere but here”, said Martin Taylor. Argent for hosting a most enjoyable day.

The modern roof (centre) over the Porticus of St Gregory, the original Resting in the shade of the 7th century St Pancras chapel, built of reused burial place of the first seven archbishops of Canterbury Roman bricks

4 Saxon 54 In the steps of St Augustine The conversion of Britain and its

DIARMAID MacCULLOCH is Professor of the History of the Church at Oxford and received a knighthood in the New Year’s Honours List. He is the author of A History of Christianity and presenter of the eponymous six-part series for BBC Television, and also President of the Suffolk Institute of Archaeology and History. Here he reviews Malcolm Lambert’s Christians and Pagans: the Conversion of Britain from Alban to Bede. Professor Sir Diarmaid MacCulloch. Photo BBC

Fortunate is the reader seeking the story of new finds. The Sutton Hoo grave was the Before there were archaeologists, early Christianity in Britain. At its heart flagship: it was discovered on the eve of people were intrigued by the standing is one of the greatest and most readable the Second World War, and in it we can stones of early Christian Britain, and they of medieval historians, the Venerable say with reasonable certainty is interred sometimes generated place names: we can Bede, and its modern exponents include King Raedwald of East Anglia, a familiar visit Valle Crucis in Denbighshire, in the such engaging and stylish writers as if ambiguous historical figure from Bede’s shadow of the ninth-century Eliseg’s Pillar, Charles Thomas, Leslie Alcock and Henry account of the early years of the papal with its long, boastful dynastic inscription Mayr-Harting. The literary sources have mission to England. In 2003, the richly for the king of Powys, a monument attracted much idiosyncratic talent, for caparisoned chamber-grave of another 6th already venerable when Cistercian monks they possess the fascination of a cryptic to 7th century king, on whose eyes had arrived in the valley; or the Cumbrian crossword in which one must sift fact been laid crosses in gold foil, was found equivalent, Crossdale, first attested in from propaganda, post-Norman Conquest in Prittlewell in ; he may reasonably 1294; or the more picturesquely corrupt forgery from dimly glimpsed ancient be identified as King Saeberht of Essex Crouch End in north London. Despite original. At one pole, there is the sixth- (d. 617), who was the first of his line to the Reformation, these islands remain century Welshman Gildas, whose gloomy convert to Christianity and made possible crowded with early Christian crosses. I rhetoric in De Excidio et Conquestu the institution of St Paul’s Cathedral in especially relish one of the least known, at Britanniae testifies to the survival of London. Metal detecting has also given Great Ashfield in Suffolk, which has stood solid classical education after the Roman us the , discovered in in shady seclusion in a gentleman’s garden legions departed. At the other pole, six 2009, whose five kilos of gold and over since 1786, when it was rediscovered after centuries later, stand the heroic liar a kilo of silver have inspired more public being recycled during the Reformation: Geoffrey of Monmouth, whose Historia excitement and regional pride than Sutton having cast it down as a monument of Regum Britanniae conjured up Arthurian Hoo. Supplementing the hoard’s array superstition, Tudor churchwardens put it splendour from scrappy British memories of military ostentation are gold crosses to good Protestant use as a bridge over a that they had had a champion against the ruthlessly folded, maybe by an enemy stream into the churchyard. As a result, , and some ingenious Welsh bishops of the Christian faith, together with a one side of it is worn perfectly smooth, who, furious at the unholy alliance of mysterious gold strip bearing a quotation Anglo-Saxon and Norman Johnny-come- from Numbers 10.35, which could have latelies, consolidated their prestige and been part of the consecration of estates against the interlopers by inventing some great church of the conversion era. evangelistic exploits for ancient saints like The metal detectors have helped to Dyfrig or David. Malcolm Lambert is a reveal the existence of a peculiar religious judicious guide to the shifting opinions of artefact from , not found scholars amid these quicksands, casting anywhere else in the Christian world: lead a sceptical eye even on Bede’s motives tanks, 20 of them so far, decorated with for glorifying and sanitising the Roman Christian symbols and occasionally scenes mission to the Anglo-Saxons. of prayer or baptism. They are clearly fonts, What makes Lambert’s account so and raise many enjoyable puzzles. Why valuable, however, is the excellent use do some sites yield more than one? Why he makes of archaeological evidence. have so many been damaged? If they were Advances in archaeology have been intended to be portable, why create an aided by the responsible use of metal object which would take at least four men detectors: once regarded with contempt to carry? We may imagine them trundling by professionals, the evolution of sensible on a cart along the roads of late Roman ground rules for their use has generated Britain, no doubt escorted with much a vast auxiliary force of enthusiastic ceremony. And then from motives which amateurs with a wide range of historical are irrecoverable (perhaps sectarian strife expertise. Our mania for building roads – misuse by Pelagian heretics?), they seem has helped too, thanks to the enlightened to have been solemnly retired, rendered arrangements that now allow for incapable of further use by mutilation, and excavations to take place before work buried at some hallowed site: three were begins. Consequently, the last century found near what looks like a Roman church A folded gold cross from the Staffordshire hoard. has witnessed an astonishing array of building at Icklingham in Suffolk. Photo Birmingham Museums and Art Gallery.

www.suttonhoo.org 5 The chi-rho symbol behind the head of Christ on the 4th century mosaic from Hinton St Mary, Dorset. Photo British Museum

while the other preserves scrolls as simply on their own island but in depicted on the reverse side of a cross-slab intricate as the Lindisfarne Gospels. Scotland and Wales too, and it reveals from Craigton near Golspie in Sutherland. The Great Ashfield cross’s now that Irish Christians, unlike the Welsh Evidently, Picts saw no conflict between agonisingly illegible inscription is and the Cornish, felt that their own the two sides of that monument, for there unusual in its region, for, as Lambert language was just as good as Latin for are at least 57 surviving examples of such notes, in a millennium-long geographical solemn religious commemoration. stones, cheerfully marrying pre-Christian peculiarity yet to be explained, eastern In the Scottish Highlands, the people and Christian iconography. England is short of epigraphy from the whom the Romans dubbed the Picts also These are the raw materials of centuries between Claudius and William used ogham and generally despised Latin, Lambert’s enjoyable new study, an the Conqueror. By contrast, in Wales, the language of their enemies. Their own ambitious attempt to tell the story of Cornwall and Ireland, brief stone-cut Brittonic language is now almost entirely Christianity from its earliest traces in inscriptions remain in abundance: for lost to us, thanks to the ninth-century Britain until the 8th century, by which instance, in Llansadwrn on Anglesey conquest by the Irish (Christian) kingdom time the whole archipelago was at least one celebrates the church’s patron saint, of Dál Riata. Equally mysterious is the nominally converted. Lambert begins ‘beatus Saturninus’, whose story was of Picts’ rich symbolic language, which they with the steady consolidation of British no use to later empire-building Welsh continued to use, once they had converted Christianity in the later Western Roman bishops, and is therefore lost to us. The to Christianity, to produce magnificently Empire, in which the two provinces of Irish had their own script called ogham, hybrid monuments whose designs even Britannia were an outlying but prosperous invented before they became Christians, the dourest Presbyterian iconoclast could and important possession. We know and wonderfully practical in a world not easily square with popery, and which virtually nothing of the Church’s earlier where there was no paper, and parchment thus frequently escaped defacement. phase, apart from one or two martyr cost a fortune, since its alphabet consists Not religious fanatics but 19th-century stories about Roman soldiers who resisted of arrangements of short lines, cut against builders destroyed the monumental 3rd century imperial persecution. There a straight edge of wood, or stone. procession of carved bulls at the Pictish is nothing implausible about these: Saint It was as good for the blind as for the fortress of Burghead on the Moray Firth, Alban inspired a long-lived cult that sighted: a Celtic braille. It can be found and we can still be intimidated and baffled resided in the town the Romans had called wherever Irish Christians travelled, not by the grinning man brandishing an axe Verulamium and that, most unusually,

6 Saxon 54 St Augustine’s chair (c.1205) in Canterbury Cathedral. Photo Nigel Maslin was not despised by the Anglo-Saxons; Sulis at Bath enlisting her aid against of the Roman legions as a symbol on the Saint Julius and Saint Aaron, martyred the thief ‘whether gentilis or Christian, monuments of British Christians anxious at Caerleon in South Wales, sound man or woman, boy or girl, slave or free’. to emphasise their enduring Romanitas convincing because that strange second Annianus was clearly not a Christian – even in 6th century Whithorn on the name is paired with one of the commonest himself, or he would hardly have wasted Solway Firth, beyond the now abandoned names among legionaries. None of the his money on Sulis, but he was living in Hadrian’s Wall. three martyred legionaries is likely to have a 4th century society already consciously One intriguing feature of British been a local. Britannia’s Christianity long dividing itself between Christian and Christianity is that, far from fading remained a religion of wannabe Romans non-Christian, and increasingly adopting away after 410 along with hypocausts in country villas and, to a lesser degree, the Christians’ condescending term for and decent flooring, it spread beyond of urban tradespeople. While there is a those who weren’t believers (for ‘Gentile’, the imperial frontiers into Ireland and curious dearth of Christian finds from read ‘pagan’). The imperial backing southern Scotland. Latin inscriptions Roman London, the distribution of small for Christianity was symbolised by the multiplied, and more and more cemeteries finds suggests that the Church’s strength ‘chi-rho’ symbol – the first two letters were marked by that peculiarly Christian was concentrated in the South-East and of Christ’s name in Greek combined as care given to proper burials for infants along the South coast. Apart from the a monogram – apparently invented by and children. The most charismatic name martyr stories, and the presence of three Constantine in the course of his successful to survive this ill-documented period is bishops from Britannia’s cities at one of military campaigns. This striking device, that of Saint Patrick, who left texts, no Constantine I’s empire-wide councils in with no precedent in scripture or early less precious for being written in imperfect 314, all the evidence we have is from the Christian tradition, became an all- Latin, that cast some brilliant shafts era after Constantine’s successors began to pervasive symbol of imperial Christianity of light on a turbulent but expanding favour the Church rather than traditional in the fourth century, appearing on the Church. He tells us the name of his home religion, and thrust the older cults aside. small change of imperial coinage in the town, ‘Bannavemtaberniae’, the identity of The earliest known occurrence of the purses of people like Annianus. It also which has provoked much debate. Many word ‘Christian’ in Britain is compelling: a appeared scratched on tiles, or as an now believe that it was probably one of certain Annianus, angry at the theft of his ornament on silver dishes and those lead the little settlements along Hadrian’s purse, offered a curse tablet to the goddess fonts, and it long outlived the departure Wall, where the fort and settlement of www.suttonhoo.org 7 Birdoswald are known to have been called period and the new Roman initiative. Pope Vitalian made a bold substitution: Banna, encouraging the rearrangement of Both Augustine’s missionaries and their a Greek-speaker from distant Tarsus a garbled name into a very feasible ‘Banna later champion Bede were concerned to in Asia Minor, called Theodore. Rome Venta Berniae’. Lambert discounts this stress the differences that caused friction was inclined to feel that Easterners like theory and places Patrick’s home in South- between Celt and Anglo-Saxon, such as Theodore were too clever by half, and a West England, but the one argument that clashing traditions in clerical hairstyles promotion to Canterbury may have been a he puts forward, the scarcity of villas (shave off all the front if you’re Celtic, convenient way of getting an unpredictable around Birdoswald that match Patrick’s just a little patch on the top if you’re theologian as far away from Rome as description of his home as avillula, is Roman) and the crucial question of how possible. Theodore arrived accompanied contradicted by his own later note that to decide the date of Easter. The tangle by a papal minder, the equally exotic Birdoswald boasts signs of a substantial is still intricate even in Bede’s narrative. Hadrian, a refugee monk from North chieftain’s house converted from the He praised certain non-Anglo-Saxon Africa. Between them, they transformed former military granary. Christian pioneers from the North and the English Church, though they had As intriguing is the question of what West, such as the indisputably great serious competition: there were episcopal form Christianity took after the Anglo- Columba of Iona; Fursey, the Irish giants in the land in those days, notably Saxons overwhelmed the population with evangelist of eastern England; and the Wilfrid, Chad and Cuthbert, none of them their gene-pool and language. Was there very early Uinniau of Whithorn, whose disposed to play second fiddle. Theodore, a coherent Church left when Augustine of name he or his assistants managed to however, had the personality and the Canterbury arrived in 597 on his mission mistranscribe as Nynia (thanks to Aelred prestige to arbitrate between kings. When from Rome? The historian Rob Meens of Rievaulx, Nynia further descended he called the Council of Hertford in 672, has made provocative observations on the into the uneuphonious Ninian). Almost it was as a Church leader who ignored the correspondence between Augustine and invariably, these figures had the advantage boundaries of the kingdoms of Hwicce, his patron, Pope Gregory I, about policy of not being British or Welsh – in other , Wessex, Northumbria or whatever in the newly established Kentish mission. words, they came from lands on which other frontiers the British might seek to Gregory argued at great length against Anglo-Saxons had no territorial designs. maintain: his Church represented an island those who had been perplexing Augustine Bede and other Anglo-Saxon clergy entity that was as yet nameless, but which with their strong opinions about what members took a much harsher view had one stimulus to unity in its common constituted sexual uncleanness. These of their fellow Christians in Anglo- allegiance to the faraway Vicar of Peter rigorists wanted to apply Old Testament Saxon territories or Wales, such as the in Rome. exclusions from participation in the temple unfortunate monks of Bangor-is-Coed, One might say that the papacy, or liturgy to pregnant women and married who committed the cardinal sin of praying its inspired historian Bede, invented the couples who had recently had sex, to keep for a British Christian king rather than English, who two centuries later duly them out of church while the pollution an Anglo-Saxon pagan one, and were found themselves with a single kingdom lasted. Clearly, these troublesome people briskly butchered for this faux pas; or of the English, or of England. But by were Christians, since non-Christians the only marginally luckier British priests the ninth century, Lambert’s tale is long would have no interest in and presumably whose churches were given away to Bishop done. Effectively, it ends in the 680s, no knowledge of the Old Testament. Wilfrid by King Ecgfrith of Northumbria with the submission of the last non- The Roman missionaries were coming after the Northumbrians had chased them Christian enclave of any significance up against a significant body of well- out in the 670s. There was quite a lot of in this archipelago, the Isle of , informed local Christians with standards fancy theological footwork to perform whose acceptance of the Good News different from their own. Lambert decides if such attitudes were to have any moral from the swashbuckling Bishop Wilfrid that these people were Gauls rather than plausibility, hence Bede’s argument that was encouraged by a massacre at the Britons, but he undermines his case by British Christians had been punished hands of the dubiously Christian warlord recounting another significant story about by God for their selfishness in refusing Caedualla of Wessex. It was not a happy Augustine: when approached by British to convert the Anglo-Saxons who had end to the century of conversion, and Bede Christians wanting to find out more overrun their country. This was an early is patently uneasy about it, though its from this well-educated Roman about shot at dealing with a problem that outcome was a welcome distraction from their ancient saint Sixtus, Augustine became steadily more insoluble through having to say too much about the constant denied that Sixtus had ever existed. Pope the medieval period, as all western Europe contemporary friction between the various Gregory had told him to suppress the accepted not just Christianity but a church leaders in Theodore and Wilfrid’s cult around the saint, sending the form of it that involved allegiance to the generation. But we only know l’affaire of a more ‘authentic’ namesake, Pope bishop of Rome. Why did these Catholic Wight took place because Bede tells us Sixtus II, from the catacombs in Rome Christians persist in killing each other about it. So who are we to criticise? as consolation. Not only does this show despite their shared creed of love? Not that there were British Christians doing even the Reformation stopped Catholics their best to find an accommodation with being beastly to one another. the new missionaries, but that Augustine For 60 years or so, the English mission and Gregory treated them with sneering sputtered erratically through the various References hostility. The pope bluntly told Augustine kingdoms of and Saxons, and that while he must treat Gaulish bishops grasping what happened is not helped by Christians and Pagans: The Conversion of with deference, British bishops were the excess of Eadbalds and Aethelburhs. Britain from Alban to Bede by Malcolm committed directly to his charge, ‘to Suddenly, in the year 666 (let paranoid Lambert Yale, 329 pp, £30.00, September instruct the unlearned, to strengthen the Protestants take note of that number) 2010, ISBN 978 0 300 11908 4 weak and correct the misguided’. the pope seized the initiative once more, Inevitably, there is a faultline when the Anglo-Saxon candidate for the This review first appeared in the London in Lambert’s narrative between the archbishopric of Canterbury happened Review of Books on 2 June last year. Christianity that survived from the Roman to die of plague while visiting Rome.

8 Saxon 54 From Newgrange to Glendalough - the Society’s trip to Ireland

Among the passage graves of Knowth, with organiser Robert Allen bringing up the rear. The Knowth macehead. Photo National Photo Michèle Abson Museum of Ireland

The Society’s trip to Ireland last summer, from 18-25 June, took a couple of dozen members to some very varied historical and archaeological sites within reach of their base in Dublin. PAULINE MOORE was surprised to discover inter-relating themes and symbols that helped her understanding of Ireland’s changing cultures: , Celtic, Viking and Christian.

The Neolithic passage-tombs of red and white flint ‘mace-head’; to talk of knelt to suckle a Celtic king’s nipples as an Newgrange and Knowth are introduced fertility symbols – there is a slender, penile act of submission? In each of three spirally- in a first-class exhibition at Brú na Bóinne shaft aiming towards this womb-like enclosing walls lies a ‘bog body’, each found (the ‘Bend in the Boyne’ north of Dublin), tomb, from the other side of the mound. in a significant boundary position. One has accompanied by a clear audio-visual Similar passage-tombs occur elsewhere in his nipples cut off – was this a disgraced explanation of the winter solstice. We Europe and even in Mexico. king, a rival? It makes one quite uneasy then move into a replica of the Newgrange Move from stone and sky to metal. to view these people: eyes closed, hands passage, into the ‘cave’ – the original was Given a free day in Dublin, most people twisted, hair sprawling, brown, leathery hewn 5,000 years ago, from greywacke spent at least a few hours in the National skin. Were they punished, sacrificed? Each with stone tools. We stand silently in Museum of Archaeology. Space does not had eaten a last meal of some cereal dish. darkness, until a shaft of light is beamed permit detail, but the Irish know how Symbols of kingship included a stag, snake straight into the space, and spreads to to display and inform in exciting ways. and ram’s head. 17cm. No-one says ‘wow’: we all gasp. It One floor has a boundary of items from The Treasury houses unique pieces, is awe-inspiring. If the sun was obscured, Neolithic to Age: from a huge, starting with a stone head carved with perhaps by storm, would they have log-boat, via the Knowth ‘mace-head’, to thought their gods had abandoned them? showing the development of metalwork for This was a real experience. domestic and military use. So was the tour of the mound of The centre of this floor housed Knowth, just over the River Boyne, presentations of Irish Gold, dating between where an expert guide showed us the 2,200 and 600 BC, most from bog symbols carved in the rocks around its deposits: many torcs, disc , collars, base. Analysis suggests that these spirals lock rings, necklaces, finely crafted; amber demonstrate the movement of the planets and jet necklaces; a jeweller’s tools. Many and that the place became a sort of Stone of the spiral patterns recalled those we had Age university to teach people cosmology: seen carved in stone. all this before the Pyramids, and before In a side room is the account of Kingship Stonehenge. It was thrilling to enter the and Sacrifice: from the Bronze and Iron Age A model of an ocean-going vessel made in beaten low passage and stand in the chamber periods, this lays out the duties of a king sheet gold in 1st century BC, from the Broighter inside one half of the circular mound; to to protect and feed his people, exacting hoard, Co. Derry. (National Museum of Ireland, consider the possible implications of the loyalty in return. Did you know that they no. IA:1903.323.2) Photo Michèle Abson www.suttonhoo.org 9 three faces, a huge bronze horn, and the of it, together with the Books of Durrow winched by a crane: goodness knows Broighter Hoard of gold. These votive and of Armagh. Each object touched how they did it, we had enough trouble offerings include the beautiful little gold by the monk stood for something: the manoeuvring a coach. ship, which seemed to embody the whole parchment is a pure conscience; his ruler Even in clouds of midges, several of us spirit of our journey. Clear expository is the Will of God; the split nib of the enjoyed a four-mile walk to the lakes and panels traced the growth of Irish art quill shows your love of God and of back, soaking up the very Irish mixture and jewellery as ‘Celtic’ ornamentation your neighbour; the writing desk stands of natural and religious symbolism, not to spreads from Germanic Europe, Britain for tranquillity of heart, and so on, mention the rain. A red stag grazed and Pictish Scotland to take a firm hold in including the glorious colours, which are in a marshy meadow, his hinds sheltering Ireland. Then come the Christians from the multiform grace of heavenly wisdom. under a tree nearby. We saluted him, Rome, and the Vikings, all with their Creatures and plants writhe amongst of course. influences. The Tara , the Ardagh the circles and spirals we have seen in A ship was the finest feature of our Chalice, crosiers, the Cross of Cong: these jewellery and carvings. last visit, to Waterford Crystal in its show how animals like boar, snake, ram, Climb to the floor above and you are splendid new home in the city centre. dragon intermingle with images of the in the breath-taking Old Library, whose Fascinated, we watched the teamwork Trinity and the Crucifixion. towering roof beams and windows enclose involved in creating even a simple piece, This Museum, like the Dublinia, near thousands of leather-bound books and but then we found two master-craftsmen the Christchurch Cathedral provide vivid a central exhibition. We saw one on about to complete the putting together of displays of Viking Dublin. This was the medieval medicine and its development, an exquisite Viking longship: this will be first place to be used as a foreign base by with gory details. about the length of a man’s forearm, and is the Vikings. One drawing scratched on In Co. Wicklow, the 18th century shaped, cut and etched with unparalleled timber shows a man on lookout from the Russborough House provided a contrast craftsmanship. Tiny, slender oars, tall mast of a longship. through the art collection of Sir Alfred mast, steering oar, and curved sail – all in Our visit to the Rock of Cashel showed Beit: beautiful porcelain, glass, fine crystal. This is almost beyond price, and us how the power struggles of kings paintings, carpets and furniture, under is the epitome of glassmaking in the same and bishops evolved. This was the 5th ornate ceilings. Tall windows give views way the prehistoric gold ship was – or the century seat of the Kings of Munster (a to sweeping, open ground and a tranquil Tara Brooch. later one was baptised here by St. Patrick) lake, enjoyed by cattle. The Irish are rightly proud of their until given to the church. We entered a Glendalough in the Wicklow culture, and we are in no doubt about the beautifully carved and painted Vicars Mountains, standing in a lovely, winding artistry, skill and eye for beauty passed on Choral House; a large (now partly ruined) valley with two lakes, is the monastic site over the centuries and still alive. Thank cathedral; and we saw one of several founded by St. Kevin, a 6th century saint, you, Robert Allen, for arranging for us to tall, pointed towers on our journey. One who sought solitude. A soft-speaking share so many enthralling experiences. archbishop survived the reign of Elizabeth guide led us through increasing showers I by being simultaneously Catholic and from one ancient chapel to another, set Protestant. An excellent guide held us about with carved crosses, and we saw Further reading: riveted in gale and rain – we retreated to another tall, pointy tower. Our attention Glendalough, City of God (eds.) Charles the friendly town for a real Guinness. was drawn to the young oak trees planted Doherty, Linda Doran and Mary Kelly Another unforgettable highlight by the crew of the Sea Stallion, the replica (Dublin, Four Courts Press, June 2011, 448pp. ISBN 978 1 84682 170 7). Lavishly was Trinity College, where the superbly longship which sailed from Roskilde in illustrated, based on lectures given to the illuminated late 8th century manuscript Denmark to Ireland and back in 2009. Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland of the Gospels, the Book of Kells is When the ship came to Dublin it was and at Glendalough. excellently displayed. We saw two copies brought to the lake at Glendalough,

The walk by the lakes at Glendalough. Photos this page Nigel Maslin The round tower at Glendalough.

10 Saxon 54 The best of guides SUTTON HOO SOCIETY NOTIFICATION OF ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING

The Annual General Meeting of the Sutton Hoo Society will be held on Friday 24 February 2012 at 7.30pm in the Kings River Café at Sutton Hoo.

AGENDA 1. Apologies 2. Minutes of last AGM 3. Reports and Accounts 4. Election of Auditors 5. Election of Committee

Following the business meeting, Mark Mitchels will talk about Treasure Hoards of East Anglia.

Michael Argent Chairman Mike Weaver, everyone’s favourite Sutton Hoo guide. Photo Archant

Mike Weaver, history teacher, lecturer and Sutton Hoo guide, died just before Christmas at the age of 70. He was the first honorary secretary of the Sutton Hoo Society, chairman of the Woodbridge Tide Mill Trust, and sometime mayor of Woodbridge. Here, MARK MITCHELS, his committee colleague for many years, explains why his enthusiasm, knowledge and warm personality will be so sorely missed. As head of history at to lie down in the centre of the boat and mingled on the mounds, enjoying a splendid Mike was inevitably drawn to Sutton Hoo. then with humour and enthusiasm reveal buffet and sharing their love of this special His predecessor, Vincent B. Redstone the Sutton Hoo story. ‘On your imaginary place. Mike was absolutely determined was the person who put Mrs Pretty in forces work’ perfectly explains why he to meet the duke, and when it was clear touch with Basil Brown. Although he was was so good. Year after year societies and this would require a bit of elbowing already heavily involved in the affairs of educational groups would assemble on the and tenacity a new Mike appeared. He Woodbridge Tide Mill, Mike could not site having insisted that Mike should be propelled himself towards the great man resist the excitement created when the their guide. They were never disappointed, and there they stood, chatting and laughing Sutton Hoo site was re-examined in the however awful the weather, as he always for quite a long time. He never ceased to 1980s. He threw himself into the newly gave a terrific performance. He was laugh about his achievement that day. Later formed Friends and brought to all the incapable of being dull. he added to his Royals-at-Sutton-Hoo file meetings his love of Anglo-Saxon culture During the years when the site was when he featured in a television series and and his delight in presenting the site to an being excavated by Professor Martin was chosen to show Prince Edward over entirely new generation of the public. Carver and his colleagues, Mike the site. Mike is credited with the much quoted enthusiastically broadened his material to Throughout the modern story of phrase, ‘page one of English history’ and include whatever work was in progress. He Sutton Hoo Mike Weaver was a loyal and it encapsulated the fascination he found realised very early on that the ‘sand men’ enthusiastic supporter, offering his many whenever he walked across the field and began were a bonus – the public could not get skills when they were needed. He was one his stint as a guide. He shared with many of enough of these shadowy figures who were of the team who helped to prepare the us the extraordinary excitement of knowing united only in the cruel and nightmarish exhibition hall for the first visitors and we were standing where it all began. methods of their deaths. He was an actor even as his illness drew on his strength Being a guide was a challenge back who relished that moment in the drama he continued to take parties on tours. in the 1980s: the site was bereft of all when he dragged the lid from the grave His wife Carol, who died just months the attractions and comforts found and drank in the gasps as another group before him, was beside him throughout there today. Mike would walk beside embraced an indelible memory. his marvellous career and her loss, which the potato field, open the tiny wooden When the Duke of Edinburgh became he bore with exceptional courage and shed (containing two post cards and a the Society’s patron it was a massive lift to humour, proved the final blow. British Museum guidebook) and then morale. He was said to be careful about the Mike was a lovely person who adored just wait to see if any people joined him. things he supported as he always gave them history and saw his mission in life as Of course they did, because he soon had his best attention, encouraging sponsors communicating that love to the people an enviable reputation as the must-have and important interests. The summer day he met. He had exceptional skills and guide. He made groups feel that they in 1987 when the duke paid us a visit was it is impossible to imagine Woodbridge were important, and that together they hugely important. He was joined by the without him. But we must learn to do so, could create magic. Once on the mound Trustees of the British Museum including and treasure the contribution he made to he would persuade some hapless visitor David Attenborough; Friends and guests our community over so many years. www.suttonhoo.org 11 The Events Diary Sutton

*Medieval Seminar †Saturday 24 March, 10.00-16.30 Hoo Lectures marked with an asterisk are part An Introduction to the Archaeology Society of the Medieval Seminar jointly convened by of Middle Saxon England c.650-850 Professor Andrew Reynolds of the Institute Paul Blinkhorn of Archaeology and Dr Sonja Marzinzik of the British Museum, who kindly invite SHS www.suttonhoo.org members to attend. Lectures begin at 17.30 EALDFEDER Anglo-Saxons at the Institute of Archaeology, 31-34 Gordon will be performing at Sutton Hoo on May 6-7 President Square, London WC1H 0PY. smarzinzik@ and 26-27, June 23-24, The Earl of Cranbrook thebritishmuseum.ac.uk July 28-29, August 4-5: more details at www. ealdfaeder.org Research Director Professor †Wuffing Education Saturday 28 April Chairman Wuffing Education events are study days Ealdfaeder Warrior Workshop, NTSH Mike Argent held at National Trust Sutton Hoo (NTSH). How to fight with spear, axe, , slingshot They cost £38 and last from 10.00 to 16.30. & archery. Treasurer Booking is essential on 01394 386498 or cliff@ Limited places, booking essential via Jonathan Abson 66 Road wuffingeducation.co.uk. For more information National Trust Ipswich IP3 8TP and the full list of events, visit www. wuffingeducation.co.uk Saturday 5 May Membership Secretary Ealdfaeder Storytelling, NTSH Pauline Moore 69 Barton Road, Woodbridge With Oswine of Gippeswic, for adults Suffolk IP12 1JH Dr Sam Newton continues his series of weekly and children 01394 382617 seminars at NTSH, based on the Sutton Hoo treasures, every Wednesday throughout Guiding Co-ordinator Robert Allen January, February and March (except 15 *Tuesday 8 May, 17.30 White Gables, Thornley Drive February), 10.30-13.00, cost £15. To enrol The Roman-Saxon Transition: email [email protected], further new evidence from excavations Ipswich IP4 3LR details at www.wuffings.co.uk where dates for at St Martin-in-the Fields 01473 728018 the summer seminars will appear later. Alison Telfer Minutes Secretary Brenda Brown †Saturday 4 February, 10.00-16.30 Sutton Hoo and the Saturday 12 May, 11.00 Website & Publicity Dr Sam Newton Basil Brown Memorial Lecture Robert Anderson Coins, Hoards and Precious Metals [email protected] *Tuesday 7 February, 17.30 in the Age of Sutton Hoo Guides’ Training Dublin before Duiblinn: Dr Gareth Williams (British Museum) Lindsay Lee combs and early settlement Riverside Theatre, Woodbridge, Suffolk Committee Members Dr Ian Riddler Tickets £7, non-members £8, from Jonathan Veronica Bennett Abson (address in next column). Sheila Dickie Iain Slessor Friday 24 February, 19.30 SHS AGM and lecture, NTSH Saturday 8 September National Trust Regional Archaeologist Treasure Hoards of East Anglia SHS Autumn Outing: Angus Wainwright Mark Mitchels Southwestern approaches  Preceded by the half-hour SHS AGM to East Anglia Saxon Editor Led by Dr Sam Newton, this coach trip will Nigel Maslin [email protected] include Devils Dyke (an ancient barrier between *Tuesday 6 March, 17.30 East Anglia and Mercia or some of the smaller Design & Layout Landscapes of Governance: tribes) Bartlow Hills and Hadstock Church, Elsey Adcock Associates Anglo-Saxon Assemblies with its considerable Anglo-Saxon associations: Telephone 01473 893966 www.elseyadcock.co.uk Prof Andrew Reynolds and Dr Stuart Brookes further details in the July Saxon. Printing †Saturday 17 March, 10.00-16.30 Henry Ling Ltd, The Dorset Press The Irish Church in Eastern England: Sutton Hoo Opening Times & Events 23 High East Street, Dorchester St Fursey and St Cedd Go to our website, www.suttonhoo.org Dorset DT1 1HB Dr Sam Newton and click on ‘Online Resources’ for links to the NTSH site. Registered Charity No 293097

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