CLIENT PRODUCTION ART SUBS OP REPRO VERSION

BLACK PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF CREW & TAILOR UNIFORMLY STYLISH YELLOW MAGENTA This month: The latest crew styles and trends of from nine the industry’s suppliers engineer CYAN style and function is ever present present ever is function and style Pillar Polo and Arrowslit Shorts Arrowslit Polo and Pillar Ashlar Shorts with the women’s the with Shorts Ashlar stew these nine companies manage manage companies nine these While the battle between between battle the While to pull off chic flair while still still while flair chic off pull to crew job. Pictured here is the the is here Pictured job. crew considering the rigors of the ofthe rigors the considering in the crew uniform market, market, uniform crew the in men’s Fieldstone Polo and Polo and men’s Fieldstone from Crew & Tailor. &Tailor. Crew from chef deck

91DWKOCT18171.pgs 05.09.2018 14:50 STYLE & SUBSTANCE &SUBSTANCE STYLE uniform page 67 page

Opener VERSION Liquid Yachtwear REPRO OP SUBS ART PRODUCTION CLIENT

BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN 91DWKOCT18125.pgs 04.09.2018 17:04 uniforms

VERSION stew LATEST STYLES Uniform special, 1

REPRO OP STYLE & SUBSTANCE Can crew uniforms be both comfortable and chic? by Lauren Beck SUBS

While crew uniforms are, well, uniformly similar in some ways — hello shorts, , and polos — the uniform suppliers out there today are doing their part to stamp style and sass into new offerings. Nine of the industry’s best share what’s new for this year and the style trends to . ART

Anchors & Dove DID YOU KNOW? Anchors & Dove is releasing new uniform lines PRODUCTION in September. Comfort and ease of wear is essential, says Project Manager Natasha Burns. “With each new design, Anchors & Dove tests all areas of performance,” she says. While Anchors & Dove has launched its “Return, it’s important that new designs look good, Recycle, Reuse” program. Vessels can return they must be “super comfortable and easy to Anchors & Dove uniforms, the vessel’s CLIENT wear,” Burns points out. Their fabric includes a name will be removed, and the gear will percentage of stretch to ensure crew comfort. be donated. The company has partnered In particular, Burns highlights their technical with Melanesian Yacht Services, who four-way stretch, which has been hugely will help distribute these items to successful, especially in the women’s and villages across Melanesia. men’s walking short. “It is a great fabric that is quick drying, wrinkle-free, machine washable, with a lovely, soft hand feel,” Burns says. The company has also used crucial yacht feedback to update a few items of its core collection. “Anchors & Dove believes crew feedback is essential in making sure our products are comfortable, flattering, and performing well,” Burns says. “We are constantly improving and expanding our product offering and a big part of that is the development of our fabrics,” says Burns, who adds that the company has widened the fabric offerings for its core range. They work closely with the interior department to develop each uniform and offer a “wide array of premium fabrics that are functional, elegant, and chic.” They’re also working on incorporating a recycled component and are considering more natural fibers like

bamboo. “Anchors & Dove is very conscious of : Women’s Scoop Neck Top and Tie Front the environment and our ecological footprint,” Short. Middle: Men’s Crew Neck Knit and Classic Walkshort, with women’s Frill Neck Burns says. “We work with ethically certified Polo and Capri Pant. Right: Women’s Peplum vendors in ensuring our footprint is minimal.” and men’s Short Sleeve and Dress www.anchorsanddove.com Pants from Anchors & Dove PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ANCHORS & DOVE COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY:

www.dockwalk.com | October 2018 67

BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN 91DWKOCT18172.pgs 05.09.2018 16:34 VERSION Crew & Tailor

DID YOU KNOW? Uniform special, 2 Based in London, Crew & Tailor is new to the market. They’re very The secret to their style? “Our integrative collection pairs tailoring proud of their debut range — manufactured in Britain, and including with textile technology and performance,” Patterson says. “As for trends Floating Life the Newel shirt, an alternative to polos, and the Chancel Tech dress, — naturally there’s a return to tailoring. We forecast monochromatic featuring hydrophilic material that pushes moisture to the outer layer color ways and there may even be a retro resurgence on the horizon, “Every year, we aim at introducing new items to our collection by REPRO OP IDwear is expanding outside yachting. to evaporate. They also offer a men’s short — the Transom short — with but this time around it’s wearer friendly and technically advanced.” responding to what the majority of our clients would like to experience. “These commercial customers appreciate the the same properties. The men’s Rendered include “washdown The company has also developed a unique Crew ID system, which Crucial to us is analyzing the market and following up with trends,” says modern looks and level of quality the yachting safe pockets.” eliminates the need for iron-on tags and marking uniforms. “The Annalisa Mutti of Floating Life. “In other words, by being in line with our industry demands, and want the same for “We’ve focused on quality (which is synonymous with the ‘Made system simplifies the uniform inventory and allocation process,” customer needs, style and design do not change drastically, but we are their staff,” says Steve Mosher. Their lines in GB’ tag) and enhancing the wearability of [the] crew uniform,” Patterson says. They’re also working on a natural fiber line and a highly responsive to the market and are always in the lookout for product can be seen in several new boutique says Sienna Patterson of Crew & Tailor. How? By focusing on fabric uniform recycling program. As Patterson says, “I’ve seen the development.” The “Custom Collection” was created three years ago, and SUBS hotels, bars, and restaurants. choice and “purposeful design elements — there’s a strong focus on waste first hand when it comes to the end of a season.” Mutti says, “Clients demand [a] top-quality garment at a reasonable price. reformulating the expectations of a yacht uniform.” www.crewandtailor.com We do our best in guaranteeing to find the best solution to their needs.” New this year for Floating Life is the Pica, a technical formal dress IDwear (pictured right), and Pintaca, a technical formal shirt. Both have received good feedback. “Nowadays, “We are always working on new designs for our line, and we watch Left: The men’s Newel specific treatments guarantee fabrics and listen to what customers are responding to when deciding ART Shirt and Transom Short. to be breathable, comfortable, fresh, on what new garments to manufacture next,” says Steve Mosher Center: Women’s Arrowslit Shorts. Right: Women’s and ideal for every situation in of IDwear. Currently, they’re looking into a new Bermuda short Chancel Tech Dress and the life of a yachtie,” Mutti says. and a Capri pant as trends seem to be pointing to them coming men’s Newel Shirt and Bartizan shorts from Floating Life maintains that the back — IDwear will consider reintroducing these to its core line. Crew & Tailor yachting industry is moving away “In keeping with the trends, as well as the popularity of the from cottons. “The future shines fabric in our garments, we will be manufacturing these new items PRODUCTION for technical fabrics,” Mutti says. in our mechanical stretch microfiber fabric, which everyone loves,” One of those is polyamide, which is Mosher says. “It is a super comfortable stretch, wrinkle-resistant, “revolutionary.” “It is hypoallergenic; breathable fabric that is easy to care for.” therefore, unlikely to cause any The company constantly tests new fabric technology. All pre- reactions and ultimately offers a sense washed cotton products, Mosher points out, can still shrink up to of freshness all day long,” Mutti says. five percent after the first 10 washes. “It might not sound like a lot, CLIENT Sensitive is another fabric that Mutti but it is! We sanforize all our cotton products beforehand, which says is innovative, perfect for sharp cuts guarantees less than 0.2 percent shrinkage,” Mosher says. “Recently, and whose fibers are very thick between we were experimenting with 3D resin logos,” Mosher says. them to allow maximum perspiration. In recent years, Mosher notes, some boats have turned to Customization is no problem — the external brands for seasonal looks. While IDwear understands Events Clothing company offers a design consultancy the “desire to switch it up,” and are happy to help source items, service, available 24/7, that can Mosher points out that it comes with issues — the problem with This year, Events Clothing launched its Trimmer short range (pictured right), which was created from crew feedback custom create any outfit, regardless of “buying these high-fashion brands is that after one season, they are and needs. “[Crew] wanted a work short that was lightweight but durable, that was comfortable to work in but color and fabric. style.floatinglife.com discontinued, which in yachting is always a headache.” That’s why smart enough to be worn on charter,” says Lindsay Gardener of New Zealand’s Events Clothing. The material is quick IDwear’s core line — which includes both classic looks and more drying and breathable with four-way stretch for comfort and movability, durable, and UV-protected. The range’s modern “fun pieces” — is designed with a five-year shelf life, which success has spurred Events to expand the range to include a women’s short and skort, and a pant for both men and allows for uniform continuity. “This alone is worth its weight in gold women is now in development. The company also plans to launch new color options at year’s end. in the yachting industry,” Mosher says. www.idwear.com Custom seems to be key. “Crew don’t want to be dressed the same as the crew on the boat docked next to DID YOU KNOW? them,” says Gardener. Events offers a number of customizations to fit any need and budget. “At the other end of the scale, full bespoke collections are on the increase with completely one-of-a-kind design and colors being offered.” While custom might be king, “This season has been all about ,” Gardner says. While you might not go wrong with the black dress staple, Events is seeing more requests for custom colors and styles “that push the boundaries of classic crew eveningwear.” Gardener highlights the new EOS dress (pictured right), which incorporates Floating Life has had a busy year, nautical stripes that have proven to be popular on and off the water, season after season. “What’s fun about this establishing multiple new partnerships, dress is that the pattern allows for a mixing of color combinations.” Another option, the Minerva dress, offers an including MCK Suppliers in Holland, elegant evening dress alternative where the chiffon outer layer can also be customized to match the vessel’s theme. Ino Yachting in Turkey, and is looking to Eco is also a concern at Events Clothing — the company is joining with companies like Patagonia to ensure establish a relationship with a local entity its core range is bluesign®-accredited. “Bluesign products have passed stringent testing to ensure garments in the U.S. The company also opened are produced in a way that protects the environment, the people involved in the manufacture, and the people a new office in Monte Carlo. wearing it,” Gardner says. Recycled coffee beans infused with recycled polyester and mixed with 100 percent cotton make up the company’s Grinder polo. www.eventsclothing.co.nz PHOTOGRAPHY: (LEFT) COURTESY OF FLOATING LIFE; (RIGHT) COURTESY OF IDWEAR LIFE; (RIGHT) COURTESY OF FLOATING COURTESY (LEFT) PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: (TOP) COURTESY OF CREW & TAILOR; (BOTTOM) COURTESY OF EVENTS CLOTHING OF EVENTS COURTESY (BOTTOM) & TAILOR; OF CREW COURTESY (TOP) PHOTOGRAPHY:

68 October 2018 | www.dockwalk.com www.dockwalk.com | October 2018 69

BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN 91DWKOCT18173.pgs 05.09.2018 16:29 VERSION Crew & Tailor

DID YOU KNOW? Uniform special, 2 Based in London, Crew & Tailor is new to the market. They’re very The secret to their style? “Our integrative collection pairs tailoring proud of their debut range — manufactured in Britain, and including with textile technology and performance,” Patterson says. “As for trends Floating Life the Newel shirt, an alternative to polos, and the Chancel Tech dress, — naturally there’s a return to tailoring. We forecast monochromatic featuring hydrophilic material that pushes moisture to the outer layer color ways and there may even be a retro resurgence on the horizon, “Every year, we aim at introducing new items to our collection by REPRO OP IDwear is expanding outside yachting. to evaporate. They also offer a men’s short — the Transom short — with but this time around it’s wearer friendly and technically advanced.” responding to what the majority of our clients would like to experience. “These commercial customers appreciate the the same properties. The men’s Rendered Trousers include “washdown The company has also developed a unique Crew ID system, which Crucial to us is analyzing the market and following up with trends,” says modern looks and level of quality the yachting safe pockets.” eliminates the need for iron-on tags and marking uniforms. “The Annalisa Mutti of Floating Life. “In other words, by being in line with our industry demands, and want the same for “We’ve focused on quality (which is synonymous with the ‘Made system simplifies the uniform inventory and allocation process,” customer needs, style and design do not change drastically, but we are their staff,” says Steve Mosher. Their lines in GB’ tag) and enhancing the wearability of [the] crew uniform,” Patterson says. They’re also working on a natural fiber line and a highly responsive to the market and are always in the lookout for product can be seen in several new boutique says Sienna Patterson of Crew & Tailor. How? By focusing on fabric uniform recycling program. As Patterson says, “I’ve seen the clothing development.” The “Custom Collection” was created three years ago, and SUBS hotels, bars, and restaurants. choice and “purposeful design elements — there’s a strong focus on waste first hand when it comes to the end of a season.” Mutti says, “Clients demand [a] top-quality garment at a reasonable price. reformulating the expectations of a yacht uniform.” www.crewandtailor.com We do our best in guaranteeing to find the best solution to their needs.” New this year for Floating Life is the Pica, a technical formal dress IDwear (pictured right), and Pintaca, a technical formal shirt. Both have received good feedback. “Nowadays, “We are always working on new designs for our line, and we watch Left: The men’s Newel specific treatments guarantee fabrics and listen to what customers are responding to when deciding ART Shirt and Transom Short. to be breathable, comfortable, fresh, on what new garments to manufacture next,” says Steve Mosher Center: Women’s Arrowslit Shorts. Right: Women’s and ideal for every situation in of IDwear. Currently, they’re looking into a new Bermuda short Chancel Tech Dress and the life of a yachtie,” Mutti says. and a Capri pant as trends seem to be pointing to them coming men’s Newel Shirt and Bartizan shorts from Floating Life maintains that the back — IDwear will consider reintroducing these to its core line. Crew & Tailor yachting industry is moving away “In keeping with the fashion trends, as well as the popularity of the from cottons. “The future shines fabric in our garments, we will be manufacturing these new items PRODUCTION for technical fabrics,” Mutti says. in our mechanical stretch microfiber fabric, which everyone loves,” One of those is polyamide, which is Mosher says. “It is a super comfortable stretch, wrinkle-resistant, “revolutionary.” “It is hypoallergenic; breathable fabric that is easy to care for.” therefore, unlikely to cause any The company constantly tests new fabric technology. All pre- reactions and ultimately offers a sense washed cotton products, Mosher points out, can still shrink up to of freshness all day long,” Mutti says. five percent after the first 10 washes. “It might not sound like a lot, CLIENT Sensitive is another fabric that Mutti but it is! We sanforize all our cotton products beforehand, which says is innovative, perfect for sharp cuts guarantees less than 0.2 percent shrinkage,” Mosher says. “Recently, and whose fibers are very thick between we were experimenting with 3D resin logos,” Mosher says. them to allow maximum perspiration. In recent years, Mosher notes, some boats have turned to Customization is no problem — the external brands for seasonal looks. While IDwear understands Events Clothing company offers a design consultancy the “desire to switch it up,” and are happy to help source items, service, available 24/7, that can Mosher points out that it comes with issues — the problem with This year, Events Clothing launched its Trimmer short range (pictured right), which was created from crew feedback custom create any outfit, regardless of “buying these high-fashion brands is that after one season, they are and needs. “[Crew] wanted a work short that was lightweight but durable, that was comfortable to work in but color and fabric. style.floatinglife.com discontinued, which in yachting is always a headache.” That’s why smart enough to be worn on charter,” says Lindsay Gardener of New Zealand’s Events Clothing. The material is quick IDwear’s core line — which includes both classic looks and more drying and breathable with four-way stretch for comfort and movability, durable, and UV-protected. The range’s modern “fun pieces” — is designed with a five-year shelf life, which success has spurred Events to expand the range to include a women’s short and skort, and a pant for both men and allows for uniform continuity. “This alone is worth its weight in gold women is now in development. The company also plans to launch new color options at year’s end. in the yachting industry,” Mosher says. www.idwear.com Custom seems to be key. “Crew don’t want to be dressed the same as the crew on the boat docked next to DID YOU KNOW? them,” says Gardener. Events offers a number of customizations to fit any need and budget. “At the other end of the scale, full bespoke collections are on the increase with completely one-of-a-kind design and colors being offered.” While custom might be king, “This season has been all about dresses,” Gardner says. While you might not go wrong with the black dress staple, Events is seeing more requests for custom colors and styles “that push the boundaries of classic crew eveningwear.” Gardener highlights the new EOS dress (pictured right), which incorporates Floating Life has had a busy year, nautical stripes that have proven to be popular on and off the water, season after season. “What’s fun about this establishing multiple new partnerships, dress is that the pattern allows for a mixing of color combinations.” Another option, the Minerva dress, offers an including MCK Suppliers in Holland, elegant evening dress alternative where the chiffon outer layer can also be customized to match the vessel’s theme. Ino Yachting in Turkey, and is looking to Eco is also a concern at Events Clothing — the company is joining with companies like Patagonia to ensure establish a relationship with a local entity its core range is bluesign®-accredited. “Bluesign products have passed stringent testing to ensure garments in the U.S. The company also opened are produced in a way that protects the environment, the people involved in the manufacture, and the people a new office in Monte Carlo. wearing it,” Gardner says. Recycled coffee beans infused with recycled polyester and mixed with 100 percent cotton make up the company’s Grinder polo. www.eventsclothing.co.nz PHOTOGRAPHY: (LEFT) COURTESY OF FLOATING LIFE; (RIGHT) COURTESY OF IDWEAR LIFE; (RIGHT) COURTESY OF FLOATING COURTESY (LEFT) PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: (TOP) COURTESY OF CREW & TAILOR; (BOTTOM) COURTESY OF EVENTS CLOTHING OF EVENTS COURTESY (BOTTOM) & TAILOR; OF CREW COURTESY (TOP) PHOTOGRAPHY:

68 October 2018 | www.dockwalk.com www.dockwalk.com | October 2018 69

BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN 91DWKOCT18173.pgs 05.09.2018 16:29 VERSION REPRO OP Anchors and Dove / Charleston City SUBS ART PRODUCTION CLIENT HISTORIC LOCATION. CONTEMPORARY SERVICE.

WINTER DOCKAGE AVAILABLE. RESERVATION RECOMMENDED. www.charlestoncitymarina.com | 843-723-5098

BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN 91DWKOCT18126.pgs 04.09.2018 16:48 VERSION Liquid Yacht Wear Uniform special, 3

Theresa Morales of Liquid Yacht Wear points out that the growing size of vessels has affected uniform design. “Radios are now no longer an option; they are needed by all,” she says. Liquid’s new dress, the Secret Service Dress, has been designed with that in mind — the is purposefully created to be able to bear a radio’s weight. “It’s also a REPRO OP reinforced buttonhole-type treatment in the side seam so that the earpiece and wire can run through the dress, thereby being hidden,” Morales explains. More boat size equals more deck space, so that was weighed in design considerations. “To keep our stews cool and looking their best, not only does the fabric have to be lightweight, but it cannot be see-through in the outdoor light,” says Morales. “It is also notable that the on this dress was cut to be narrow so the wind doesn’t catch it during outside service.” SUBS Morales notes these other trends: gray continues to be a uniform favorite, so Liquid is offering more designs in various shades of gray. As of October 1, 2018, Liquid will offer 18 garments in gray, including all men’s and women’s bottoms in light gray and charcoal, and charcoal board shorts, a silver , and a silver polo. Also new are the Liquid Gold Shorts for men. “We patterned them after the shorter shorts we see the guys wearing in Europe and California,” Morales says. “We thought ART boating needed to catch up with men’s designs.” The style will also be available in pants with a skinny leg. What could be trendier than a ? “Hot off the cutting table and new for the 2018 boat show season is Liquid’s Jumpsuit,” says Morales. “A lot of design know-how has gone into our new fun piece: The waist has a hidden elastic band that can be turned over if the stew is shorter, or left as is if she is not.” Once again, they have hidden a hole for the PRODUCTION radio earpiece and wire to be run inside the . The style, Morales says, “all add up to Left: The Jumpsuit. www.liquidyachtwear.com Above: Women’s Secret Service Liquid stews rocking the latest trend.” Dress from Liquid Yacht Wear

Smallwood’s

CLIENT Smallwood’s is introducing two new collections — the Elements Collection, which includes board shorts for men and women in navy and black (pictured far left) with SPF 50, and the Breeze Collection, men’s and women’s shorts and pants in soft peached twill with a nonrestrictive fit, mechanical stretch, and resistance to fading and wrinkling. The line will be available in charcoal, khaki, and navy, Helen Smallwood says. Smallwood’s also has a new dress, skort, and polos debuting at the 2018 Monaco show. Customization in an industry like yachting will always be hot. Smallwood’s has several options, “like the laser etching on the pullovers [pictured left] is a nice alternative to traditional monogramming or screen printing.” Color is also growing more popular. “Grays — light and dark — are still the most popular for bottoms, but we are seeing growing interest in color and stripes,” says Smallwood. One thing she notes is that while the custom business grows, “the most successful DID YOU KNOW? programs build on stock items and inject customization on select pieces to create a unique look.” Smallwood notes that many larger programs are moving away from full customization to avoid issues that come with fill- ins and re-orders. Smallwood’s is expanding on both sides of Popular trends that Smallwood has noticed the Atlantic, adding more space in Antibes include easy care, quick dry, UV-protection, and and in Fort Lauderdale. There’s a new stretch fabrics. “We are currently experimenting with warehouse in Lauderdale to house the custom-printed fabric in small quantities (50 yards), monogramming, processing, shipping, which can be used for full garments or details like and inventory. The showroom on plackets, pockets, and lining,” she says. With smaller 17th Street remains. quantities (and enough time), Smallwood’s can now offer custom options that incorporate logos and offer

PHOTOGRAPHY: (TOP) COURTESY OF LIQUID YACHT WEAR; (BOTTOM) COURTESY OF SMALLWOOD’S COURTESY WEAR; (BOTTOM) OF LIQUID YACHT COURTESY (TOP) PHOTOGRAPHY: “a designer brand feel to any uniform program.” www.smallwoods.com

www.dockwalk.com | October 2018 71

BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN 91DWKOCT18174.pgs 05.09.2018 16:30 VERSION Uniform special, 4 World of Yachting DID YOU KNOW? “We are always working on new designs and have done so many custom projects during the past four years that it makes it hard to pinpoint a trend in that each REPRO OP custom job has been unique,” says World of Yachting owner Kristen DiMartino. “We are always looking for the best fabrics with technical features such as UV, breathability, bacteria control, quick dry, etc. There is always new development — even in recycled goods and planet-friendly fabrics like bamboo.” World of Yachting is celebrating 14 years DiMartino has enjoyed her time in the industry, especially on the uniform side. of business on 17th Street in Fort “How the industry has evolved and with younger crew coming in, they bring a Lauderdale. Owner Kristen DiMartino SUBS different perspective and wants, so we have fun putting some new spins on the was a yacht stewardess for eight years. classics, while keeping them classy!” www.worldofyachting.com

ART Zeidel & Co.

The crew life of work (and fun) in the sun sounds good, but the sun’s effects are not always so funny. Zeidel & Co have recently been featuring the BloqUV Sun Protective Apparel (BloqUV skort and shirt pictured), which blocks 98 percent of the sun’s harmful UV rays with a minimum of UPF 50. Also big this year, says owner Montana Pritchard, are Sun and SPF products. PRODUCTION But Pritchard also sees another interesting trend, one that speaks to what seems to be a growing need to be comfortable. “Inspired by the comfort and flexibility of yoga-wear, Athleisure is the fastest growing trend in apparel,” says Pritchard. “New fibers enable greater odor reduction, sweat-wicking, stretchability to conform to the body’s shape, breathability to allow air in and out, and protection from dirt.” It sounds like the perfect setup for crew. Pritchard also shares that they are seeing more vessels asking for “premium customized CLIENT guest gifts, from custom beach totes showcasing nautical charts of the upcoming trip to full- color coin medallions featuring the yacht profile and dates of the charter.” In addition, “Special location printing and full color printing are the new thing,” Pritchard says. He also maintains that many of his clients are asking for full-color yacht logos but are changing things up — “not the typical profile on the back of the shirt, rather on the side of the shirts wrapping around the waist, for ‘something different.’” So yes, it’s possible to be both chic and comfortable. www.zeidel.com

DID YOU KNOW?

Zeidel & Co is launching the SEE Essentials Program, a new option that allows companies to offer an additional service without requiring them to stock uniforms, personalized goods, and flags. “Consider it a wholesale option to purchase SEE Apparel from Zeidel & Co.,” says Montana Pritchard.

72 October 2018 | www.dockwalk.com OF ZEIDEL & CO. COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY:

BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN 91DWKOCT18175.pgs 05.09.2018 16:24