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least as far as the 1st century BCE, and to the early centuries AD, when wines of the region were in wide circulation – and high repute – in the Roman world. The vine Exploring continued to spread even once the Romans had left, and by the 6th century, religious orders had begun to set up throughout the region. It was the monks of, among other orders, Cluny, who, as in Burgundy, Castilla y León brought a range of new ideas about vine cultivation and production across the Located in northwest , this large region is home to a diverse region in the following centuries. By the 12th century, wine was firmly selection of and wine styles. David Williams takes a tour, established as one of the most significant pillars of the local economy throughout from to Rueda, and recommends wines to try the region, with its wines amongst the most favoured of various European courts – a position it maintained right up until the astilla y León is one of UNESCO World Heritage sites. It’s a land But it’s not just in the fields of history, crisis of the late 19th century. Europe’s greatest cultural of sometimes-breathtaking Roman, art and architecture, where Castilla y As with neighbouring , the crisis was centres. The region, which medieval and prehistoric sites. León’s cultural richness is found. As any initially a boon for winemakers throughout covers a vast chunk of Here visitors will discover one of the visitor to the region learns soon enough, Castilla y León, with desperate French Castilla y León northwestern Spain – from world’s finest gothic cathedrals (Burgos), it is also one of Europe’s most important wine traders, their vineyards decimated Castilla y León: the wine regions at a glance just north of Madrid, in the centre of the as well as one of the world’s oldest, most viticultural centres, with an outsized share by the louse, coming to Spain to find an Denominación de Origen Denominación de Origen Total area of region: C country, to in the far northwest, respected universities (Salamanca, which of Spain’s (and Europe’s) most exciting alternative source of wine. Protegida 2 94,226km and from Rioja in the east to in was founded in the 12th century) and, in contemporary wine producers. The arrival of the French brought new con Indicación Geográfica Total vineyard: the west – is home to no less than nine Salamanca, Segovia and Avila, some of ideas and in many cases higher quality to Bierzo Cebreros 75,000ha Spain’s most atmospherically historic Castilla y León’s cellars. But, although Looking back Top three grapes cities. There are also a host – literally Of course, as ever in Europe, the history of pockets of vines on sandy soils in higher León Valles de Benevante by plantings: hundreds – of noteworthy galleries, wine in Castilla y León is inseparable from altitudes survived (and, in some cases, Ribera del Duero Valtiendas (65%) castles and museums. the region’s wider history. It reaches back at are still producing astonishing wines ➢ Rueda (11%) Tierra del Vino de Zamora de Mencía (8%) Toro Castilla y León

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today), the louse destroyed many of the individual DOs in fact cover a Around the regions level. That brings a moderating, the region’s vineyards once it followed remarkably wide variety of styles. A tour of Castilla y León’s modern brightness-preserving nighttime cool to those traders south of the Pyrenees. Anyone looking for red wines of wine culture would likely start in the the otherwise hot summer days in this For much of the tumultuous century that awesome brooding power and depth DO that was quickest to gain an classically continental climate, yielding followed, production in Castilla y León will find much to enjoy in Castilla y León. international reputation back in the juice of vivid black-fruited intensity with was mostly concerned with quantity But these are only one (albeit highly 1980s: Ribera del Duero. a wonderful balancing freshness. rather than quality. Museo Provincial significant) part of a picture that makes Like many parts of Castilla y León, Those raw materials make wines of That all began to change in the 1970s del Vino, Peñafiel full use of the red-wine spectrum, from Ribera del Duero is a land of Tempranillo great variety, depending on the and 1980s, when Castilla y León became the deep and dark through the succulent – although it’s the local variant known producer’s intention: the intensity of the one of the epicentres of a new wave of and easy-drinking to the aromatically as Tinto Fino or Tinta del País that is fruit marries well with the softening Spanish winemaking, and when a Diverse DOs region’s many and varied DOs that will pretty and silky – as well as taking in a planted in the vineyards which follow effects and flavours of high-quality oak in generation of innovative, talented, Of course, while there are some superbly likely resonate most deeply with the full range of whites from the aromatically the upper valley of the Duero River. The gran reserva and reserva styles, but can cosmopolitan winemakers looked to ambitious wines being made within the world’s wine lovers. crisp to the gastronomically rich and thick-skinned, early-ripening Tinto Fino be just as good with minimal oak ageing unleash the true potential of the region’s looser regulatory and liberal varietal ‘Many’ and ‘varied’ are certainly the structured. The scene also includes rosés thrives here, thanks in no small part to the (or entirely unadorned) in vibrant, terroirs – a cultural ferment that is still framework of the region-wide Vino de la operative words here. Although this that can be both intensely deep-coloured altitude. High up on the Central Iberian youthful roble and jovén wines (some very much in action, and still producing Tierra Castilla y León designation (first part of the world is sometimes and flavoured or lighter and prettier in a plateau, vineyards are planted at ‘natural’) – an easy exuberance that’s also new styles and stars, today. introduced in 2005), it’s the names of the stereotyped as Big Red Wine country, modern style. between 700m and 850m above sea apparent in the area’s rosados. ➢

olive. A very satisfying winter evening of modern Ribera del Duero from one of thanks to the 60-year-old pie franco (own Williams recommends 12 Castilla y Léon wines wine. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5% the region’s leading producers, the root) vines. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5% expensive oak is seamlessly woven in 1 Ermita del Conde, Mayor, 4 Abadia de Acón, Ribera del Duero and it’s all knitting together nicely five 7 Rico Nuevo Viticultores, Jirón de with the pure and true Tempranillo fruit 10 Bodegas y Viñedos Luna Beberide, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León Gran Reserva 2009 93 years down the line. A distinctly savoury Niebla, Cebreros 2018 93 – all intense mulberrry and blackberry, Finca Luna Beberide, Bierzo 2018 91 2016 93 24.95 (2012) Castelnau feel to the flavours, a brothy umami tang £27.93 Decantalo but with complexing layers of sweet £8.95 Vinissimus £11.03 Vinissimus A red wine of grand scope and scale that that comes through on the long finish, From north-facing vines planted at around spice and hints of something savoury to Made with fruit from 60-year-old vines, Made from 100-year-old-plus vines of the still tastes remarkably young, the structure after the soft, mature red and black fruit 1,000m in the Sierra de Gredos come as it ages for at least a decade. this is a beautiful expression of Bierzo exceptionally rare local variety, Albillo still very much in place with satisfyingly and the smoothly rendered tannins. mountains, this is a superb example of the Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5% Mencía that showcases the variety’s ability Mayor, planted at 972m above sea level, firm tannins and intense dark blackberry Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5% pale, haunting, red-fruited, silk-textured to conjure floral fragrance, with intense this is an intensely complex, dry white Tempranillo fruit, the mouth filling up, too, style of modern Spanish Garnacha. 9 Bodegas Fariña, Gran Colegiata and fleshy fruit flavour – in this case black with layers of yellow plum and soft toasty with a swirl of mature oak savouriness, 6 Hermanos Perez Pascuas, Ribera Subtle notes of aniseed, red plum and Original, Toro 2014 92 cherry. There’s also a mix of satiny cherry oak leading into a fascinatingly textured baking spice, chocolate and coffee grains. del Duero Gran Reserva 2012 93 wild strawberry fill the fluent palate, and £18.90 Vinissimus skin texture on the palate and a hint of dark palate that is charged with mineral Impressive. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5% £58 (2009) Street Wines there’s a wave of freshness on the long A deep, dark and brooding example of plum skin tang. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 13.5% freshness. Long, ageworthy, fascinatingly Wonderfully composed and mellow as it finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14% the local Tinta de Toro variant of original. Drink 2020-2026 Alcohol 13% 5 Arzuaga Navarro, Ribera del Duero is, with beauitifully integrated oak, this Tempranillo that manages to retain a 11 José Antonio Garcia, Unculín Reserva Especial 2015 93 gran reserva teems with life beneath the 8 Pago de los Capellanes, Ribera del sense of proportion and drinkability Mencía, Bierzo 2019 91 2 José Pariente, Verdejo Fermentado £49.90 Gourmet Hunters surface, the dark inky fruit still lively with Duero Reserva 2016 93 among the layers of inky blackberry £ 7.90 Carte Blanche Wines Barrica, Rueda 2018 90 The fruit of 90-year-old Tempranillo vines balancing freshness along with notes of £31.86 Gourmet Hunters fruit, tannic grip and vanilla toastiness US stockists: De Maison Selections £13.14 Vinissimus is aged for 24 months in new French oak, leather, meaty savouriness and black A smart, super-slick and stylish example – an agile quality which is no doubt Made from 85% Mencía mixed with a Like the Sauvignon Blanc with which it hotchpotch of local indigenous is often compared, Verdejo is generally varieties, this is a beautifully harmonious made in a fresh, youthful style, but it also 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 and agile lighter red that is filled with red takes well to sensitive oak ageing. This is fruit and peppery spice. Has a natural very nicely done, with the natural exotic drinkability and freshness but also fruit notes and tang complemented and plenty of flavoursome depths. A true deepened by 10 months of French oak. original. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13.5% Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13.5% 12 Malcaracter, Ribera del Duero 3 Pardevalles, Rosado Prieto Picudo, 2017 91 Léon 2019 88 £15.95 www.goodwineonline.co.uk £ 7.90 Vinissimuss An effortless, succulent, supple and A gastronomic rosé that has depth and natural take on Tinta Fina (aka character. A nip of food-friendly tannin Tempranillo) that puts the emphasis and spice alongside ripe berry fruit and on fresh-fruited drinkability, with lithe some balancing acidity. A wine for those tannins and fresh acidity and a splash who don’t always want our pinks pale of spice-inflected blackberry fruit. and pastel. Drink 2020-2021 Alc 13.5% Drink 2020-2023 Alc 13%

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Tinto Fino/Tinta del País – often from very old vines – is also the principal variety in Ribera del Duero’s small, rising-star neighbouring DOs of Cigales and Arlanza, both of which produce wines of similar verve, intensity and ageability. But it’s another local variant of Tempranillo, Tinta de Toro, which is the principal ingredient in Toro, further west along the Duero Valley towards Portugal. Once again, the extremity of the continental climate ensures very hot days. Any maritime influence from the Atlantic is shielded by the Cantabrian Mountains to the north, and the plateau is also bound by the Central Mountain ranges to the south. Meanwhile a relatively short growing season is leavened by the effects of altitude – a slightly more modest 600m to 750m above sea level. Although recent years have seen a highly successful movement away from excesses of tannin of alcohol in the DO, Toro is unashamedly powerful and rich – Vineyards in Bierzo dramatic wines that speak eloquently of the place where they are made. (2007) Arribes DO, right up on the border with Portugal. The wines of León But for now the indigenous white Located some 200km north of the Duero variety with the highest reputation in Valley, Bierzo, up near the border with Castilla y León is the exotically aromatic Galicia, in León has a completely Verdejo. All but synonymous with the different feel. Here in the vineyards Rueda DO located along the Duero around the River Sil, a tributary of the Valley to the west of Ribera del Duero, Miño River, the Atlantic Ocean makes its where it is perfectly adapted to the poor presence felt with a milder, wetter soils and the extremes of the continental climate, and the variety that rules Verdejo climate, Verdejo has played a crucial role the local roost is Mencía. in the development of modern Spanish Once considered an everyday red Old vines and new wave white winemaking. grape capable of producing pleasantly Further south, meanwhile, the Castilla y It’s hugely versatile: some winemakers refreshing light red wines but nothing León region also lays claim to one of the prefer cold fermentations and no oak to more, in the 21 st century Mencía has most influential sites in Spain’s 21st play up its fresh, tropically fruited become one of Spain’s most fashionable century old-vine Garnacha revival. In the aromatic qualities; others choose to varieties – delivering wines of vibrant red high-altitude (up to 1,200m above sea ferment and age in oak for a richer, and black berry and cherry fruit, boasting level) Cebreros to the south of Avila in Spanish Graves-like style; in recent years, pretty floral and herbal fragrance, along the Gredos Mountains, a tiny DOP of there has been a great deal of with crisp, mineral, almost racy acidity small producers is creating Garnachas experimentation with extended skin and (like the Cabernet Franc with which it is from vines grown on steep slate slopes (especially) lees contact, and concrete, often compared). with a haunting, pale, Pinot Noir-esque clay, glass, even granite fermentation While not yet matching Mencía for feel (for more on Cebreros see p38). vessels. But then, experimentation – plantings or international attention, León’s Those same producers are also always with an eye on tradition – is very other red trump card when it comes to making some of Spain’s most intriguing much in the blood throughout Castilla y varieties is Prieto Picudo. Another new-wave whites from Albillo Real: wines León, the heart of culture. thick-skinned grape, it has traditionally of fascinating texture and distinctive been used to add pigment to blends, its savoury and herbal character. Other deep colour also lending itself to a rising-star white varieties to look out for vivacious style of rosé. But winemakers in include fragrant, saline-mineral Godello the León DO have been making in Bierzo and floral yet tangy Malvasia, CASTILLA Y LEÓN increasingly impressive solo reds, which which is often blended with Albillo and have a blackberry-juicy vivacity all their own. Verdejo, in the relatively recently created Website: [email protected] [email protected] Explore the heart of Spanish wine

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Spain

WINE MAP OF CASTILLA Y LEÓN SPAIN

WINE AREA: 75000 Ha VARIETIES RED WINE WHITE WINE ROSÉ SPARKLING WINE

© 2018. Instituto para la Competitividad Empresarial de Castilla y León

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