The Jaguar XK8 Bible (2003-2006MY X103/X104) by Gary R. VanRemortel [email protected] revised 04/18/2021 IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES AND NOT TO BE SOLD, POSTED OR ALTERED, UNLESS APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE AUTHOR. It is targeted at DIY mechanics and not intended as a substitute for JTIS Shop Manual or formal training. Our background is in Mechanical Engineering, not Automotive Repair, so we accept no responsibility for its use. We update several times per year and if we missed anything or got something wrong, please email us. Ctrl F pulls up search (find) string and all links are live.

Follow QR code below to tothegarage.co.uk for current revision XK8 Bible, Shop Manuals, Schematics and other XK8 related documentation. John Dee’s ‘To the Garage’ and Damian Richmond’s ‘O&DR Modurol’ YouTube channels have videos addressing a variety of XK8 issues. Production changes led to some errors/omissions in Jaguar documentation, so confirm part numbers against your VIN prior to ordering. Shop Manual often advises unnecessary disassembly and/or special tools to accomplish certain tasks. sngbarratt.com and terrysjag.com have exploded views and used parts may be requested from jaguarheaven.com. forums.jag-lovers.com/c/xk8/26 and jagrepair.com include info and well-presented repair procedures, mostly for X100. My 2005 XK8 convertible with 140Kmi has been my daily driver since 2011 but does require regular attention to be at its best. Non-critical unit conversions from US to SI have been rounded.

Acceleration to 60mph [100km/h]: 6.3sec Bore x Stroke / Compression Ratio: Ø3.40 x 3.60” [Ø86 x 90.3mm] / 11:1 Braking Distance from 60mph [100km/h]: 118ft [35m] Cd: 0.36 top up, 0.40 top down Curb / Gross Weight: 4086 lb [1850kg] / 4795 lb [2175kg] Engine: AJ34 256in³ [4.2L] DOHC aluminum alloy 32-valve 90° V8 Frontal Area: 21.5ft2 [2m2] Fuel Capacity / Range: 19.8gal [75L] / ~300mi [480km] @ reserve warning Fuel Consumption (average): 18mpg [7.65km/L] top down Lug Circle / Thread / Socket Size / Torque: Ø4.75” [120.65mm] / ½”-20 / 22mm / 75 ft-lb [100Nm] Oil Circulation Volume @ Maximum Pressure: 10gpm [38L/min] @ 66psig [455kPa] Power / Torque (max): 294hp [220kW] SAE @ 6000rpm / 303 lb-ft [410Nm] SAE @ 4100rpm Speed (max ECM limited): 155mph [250km/h] Turning Radius: 18ft [5.5m] Wheels Front / Rear: 59794C Ø19x8” / 59795C Ø19x9” Atlas Chrome

Units = mm

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Table of Contents 1 Overview ...... 3 2 Body ...... 4 3 Engine Bay ...... 4 4 Valve Train...... 5 5 Ignition ...... 5 6 Lubrication ...... 6 7 Cooling ...... 6 8 Serpentine Belt...... 8 9 Intake and Crankcase Ventilation ...... 8 10 Fuel System ...... 10 11 Throttle ...... 11 12 Transmission ...... 11 13 Driveline ...... 14 14 Differential ...... 14 15 Exhaust and Emissions ...... 14 16 Electrical ...... 15 17 Security and Horns ...... 19 18 Suspension ...... 19 19 Steering ...... 21 20 Brakes ...... 22 21 Wheels and Tires ...... 23 22 Windscreen, Washers and Wipers ...... 23 23 Soft Top ...... 24 24 Interior ...... 25 25 Restraints ...... 27 26 Climate Control ...... 28 27 Cleaning and Protection ...... 29 28 Lighting ...... 30 29 OBD-II and Problem Diagnosis ...... 33 30 Condition Inspection ...... 33 31 Crank, but No Start Checklist ...... 34 32 Fluids, Connectors, Replacement Parts and Service Intervals ...... 35

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1 Overview

The XK8, designed by Fergus Pollock and the late Geoff Lawson, is one of the most esthetically pleasing and superb GT cars ever produced. This spiritual successor to the legendary E-Type incorporates many XJ41/42 concept car design elements and a rust-free previously owned XK8 can be a steal, IF you can maintain it yourself. I have no experience with original X100s, just 2003-2006MY iteration. No highly specialized training or equipment are necessary to work on these cars but, because Jaguar ended support in 2016, parts specific to XK8s are fading from supply chain. ~75,000 X100s were built, compared with only ~15,000 X103/X104s, so later model parts will be even harder to come by. Look for Ford numbers, as Mondeos, Thunderbirds and Lincolns shared some parts. Compare replacement parts with existing and retain during prove-out period, particularly when buying aftermarket parts. Electrical parts usually cannot be returned. Some present day XK parts may be adaptable. A2C2 REPORTS $20B WORTH OF VERY CONVINCING COUNTERFEIT AUTO PARTS, MOST MADE IN CHINA, ARE SOLD THROUGH LEADING ONLINE MARKETPLACES YEARLY. WHEN BRAND NAME IS IMPORTANT TO YOU, BUY ONLY FROM MANUFACTURERS’ AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTORS OR YOUR LOCAL AUTOPARTS STORES.

DAMAGE TO MAJOR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WILL OCCUR IF BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED OR RECONNECTED IGNITION ON. Jaguar notes mobile phone use could interfere with vehicle systems, but we have never experienced this. Repair shops have a module replacement mentality, so knowledge of basic electronic troubleshooting, inspection and soldering rework under magnification may save you big bucks. Through 2002MY, VCATS label in trunk lists module part numbers and programming revision. Ref TSB 418-03. Sourcing a replacement module with matching part number AND suffix may not require dealership reprogramming. Modules interacting with Security and Locking Module may alter, be altered or clash with other modules, possibly ‘bricking’ your car. Wear ESD wrist strap when handling electronic modules and transport in shielded bag.

Performing a hard reset clears ECM Adaptions to expedite adaptive learning for engine functions. Ref TSB 303-01. Few low-end OBD-II scan tools are able to clear TCM Adaptions to expedite adaptive learning for shifting characteristics. A TCM reset is to be followed by relearn drive cycle. Ref JTB00145.

See jagshops.com for indie service shops. Some specialty repair sources in US are: • aesmodules.com in FL (BCM, ECM and TCM) • autoecu.com in TN (ECU, Throttle Body and ABS) • bentwheelsolutions.com in WV (Wheels) • Darrell Turner in CA [email protected] (Power Seat Module) • digitalautotech.com in CA (Major Instrument Cluster and ABS) • ecudoctors.com in FL (ECM) • foreignecurepair.com in TX (BCM, ECM and TCM) • goecm.com in TX (ECM) • innovativewheelsolutions.com in SC (Wheels) • moduleexperts.com in FL (BCM, ECM and TCM) • modulerepairpro.com in CA (Power Seat Module) • wheelsolutions.com in CA (Wheels) • wheelsolutionsinc.com in MA (Wheels) • wheeltechniques.com in CA (Wheels)

Safe jacking points are X-brace bolts just aft of front wheel arches, core support beneath radiator (use wood block to spread load), X-brace bolts near differential and just forward of rear wheel arches. Hood can be stood straight up with gas struts disconnected and shear bolts placed in hinge holes for safety. Warm plastic connectors prior to disconnecting or their locking features may crack due to age. Remove O-rings/seals using smooth nonmarring tool, lube seals with Krytox RFE 29710 and use Permatex Ultra Grey 22074 and/or Hylomar M HUBR01 gasket sealers. Cleanup sealing surfaces using only 3M Roloc Bristle Disc 120grit WHITE or a hard plastic tool. Use Sullivan Glow Fuel Bulb S171 to suck old fluid from brake and power steering reservoirs in lieu of flushing. Tool kit should include Towing Eye HJA4333AC (M20-2.5 right-hand thread), often misplaced at initial dealer prep.

Take photos during disassembly and place fasteners and other small items in marked bags. Seal off engine openings as soon as they are revealed. Fastener thread engagement in Aluminum should be 3X fastener diameter. Turning fastener counterclockwise first helps locate thread start. Threaded insert repair kits are readily available. Torque values in documentation are for dry threads, unless stated otherwise. When using Never Seez NSB-4 on items originally installed dry, apply sparingly and reduce specified torque by ~25%. Install circlips end-gap down to shed moisture.

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2 Body

US vehicle bumpers have shock absorber mounts to meet low speed impact regulations while ROW have frangible plastic moldings and either type can rust and seize bolts in situ, so coat bolts with Copper grease. Convertibles have cross-bracing under engine bay and differential, stiffened rocker panels, tubular bars rear sides of cabin and reinforced A-pillars. Front longitudinal members, seatbelt anchors, suspension mounting points, bumper mounts and side impact door beams are high-strength Steel but there is still some scuttle shake. Watch for paint cracking at welded rocker panel joints, indicating structural damage. Ensure door drains are open, wiper shaft rubber seals in place and rubber windscreen underscuttle drainpipes secure on spigots. Power wash undercarriage regularly and follow good rust preventive measures.

3 Engine Bay

Jaguar designed 441 lb [200kg] closed deck (no valley pan) 4.2L engine is compact, refined and strong running to 6400rpm redline. Cross-plane spheroidal graphite cast Iron crankshaft runs in five plain bearings and Krebsoge sinter-forged Steel connecting rods are fracture-split. Torque curve rolls off noticeably below 2000rpm. Cast Iron sleeves and other significant improvements over early 4.0L engines we mad. Warm cylinder compression is ~200psig [1380kPa]. Cold starting idle is ~1200rpm, dropping to ~650rpm in <45sec. Ref TSB 303-12.

Coil-over upper mount Steel triangulation braces run to windscreen flange. When replacing starter, top bolt is best accessed with oil filter and alternator cooling ducts removed. To realign hood, leave hinge bolts loose, latch bolts just snug and close hood. Remove front bumper undertray, use spacers to align hood with wings, tighten at least one bolt each side from underneath, open hood to complete tightening of all bolts and reinstall undertray.

350

300

250

200

150 HP (SAE) 100 TORQUE (LB-FT)

N/A AJ34 HP AND TORQUE AND HP AJ34 N/A 50

0 0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 RPM

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4 Valve Train

Morse Hy-Vo primary chains and Aluminum-bodied tensioners handle torsional load reversals of Variable Valve Timing (VVT) on naturally aspirated 4.2L engines. Chain guides and tensioners are due for replacement at ~200Kmi [320000km]. Harmonic Damper puller and crankshaft/camshaft locking tools are needed, but job is merely time consuming, not difficult. Parts and tools are available from christophersforeigncarparts.com. Crankshaft primary chain drive gears are offset by half tooth pitch with inboard gear punch mark facing engine and outboard gear mark facing away. VVT gear to camshaft bolts are right-hand thread.

Intake cams rotate up to 48° in 700msec. Gun-drilled camshafts, shimmed inverted bucket lifters and Ø5mm valve stems reduce valve train mass. Valve axes are at 28° in Cosworth pentroof heads, lift is 9mm and clearances are .008” [0.20mm] intake, .010” [0.25mm] exhaust. <18psig [125kPa] oil pressure is insufficient to release internal stopper pins locking camshafts to VVT gears at shutdown to ensure camshaft stability at next engine start. If a rattle is heard upon startup, shut down immediately. Remotely switching B+ to VVT solenoids can help isolate whether engine noise is coming from cams or timing chains. Pay attention to oil use and tail pipe emissions to ensure valve seals are not cooked. Mahle SS45961 seals are Viton fluoroelastomer.

5 Ignition

Denso 32bit ECM fires single bolt ‘smart’ pencil coils they no longer manufacture, NGK being my choice. 4.2L cylinder designations meet ISO standards, Bank-1 (right side) 1, 3, 5 and 7 and Bank-2 (left side) 2, 4, 6 and 8 and firing order 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8. Ref TSB 303-29. Oil found within spark plug wells or on coil rubber boots is either leaking from valve cover ring seals or plugs were not properly torqued. Blast wells clean with compressed air prior to removing plugs. ‘Side gapping’ plugs as shown in center-right view above increased my mileage by >5%. Changing plugs is an easy DIY job taking ~45min. Note plug resistance when new and at end of life. ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9785

Flashing Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL, aka Check Engine Lamp) indicates gross misfire with unburned fuel risking cylinder washdown and catalyst damage. DTCs P0301 through P0308 indicate misfire on cylinders 1 through 8, respectively. Coils often die without warning, so I suggest packing a spare amazon.com/dp/B01N4T6CGY. Disconnect each fuel injector connector in turn to confirm non-firing cylinders by their lack of rpm drop at idle. ~.040” [1mm] plug gaps should allow coils to last ~100Kmi [160000km] and they are best replaced as a set. DO NOT use a known bad coil to chase cylinder misfires. If driveshaft is badly out of balance/column, vibration may be sufficient for Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) to suspend misfire testing, preventing ECM from completing some emissions monitor tests.

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MIL ON at Key ON Engine OFF (KOEO) confirms ECM has B+. Tach needle movement or MIL OFF during cranking means CKP sensor AJ81284 (SMP PC366) is functional. Faulty CKP sensor causes ECM to disable fuel and ignition. ECM cooling fan in passenger’s side firewall compartment runs ignition ON. Aluminum electrolytic capacitors in modules dry out with age and are not expected to last beyond 20yr. They are inexpensive and easily replaced.

Capacitors for ECM 4W83-10K975-CB are: C008 33uF 35V EEU-FR1V330 C016 220uF 10V ECA-1AHG221 C021 220uF 10V ECA-1AHG221 C025 100uF 10V EEU-EB1A101S C055 47uF 63V EEU-FR1J470B C510 330mF 35V UPM1V331MHD6 C532 6.8uF 100V UHE2A6R8MDD1TD

6 Lubrication

I change oil and filter every 5Kmi [8000km]. Oil cooler ports are properly face upward, so no drain back occurs upon shutdown, nor air pocket upon startup. Total capacity is ~9qt, but service fill (oil and filter) is ~8.5qt. Sump can safely tolerate overfill by 1qt due to bed plate and windage tray. Use Camguard Automotive oil additive if your car sits unused for long periods. Jaguar’s confusing oil dipstick, tube length and capacity changes affected only early 4.0L engines. Ref TSBs 100-17 and 204-13. I have FilterMag SS300 shopfiltermag.com and Fumoto F106SX (M14-1.5 thread) fumotousa.com oil drain valve. Inspect front of engine to cooler hoses regularly and replace every 10yr. Ref TSB 303-S846.

7 Cooling

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10qt split flow, high exchange rate cooling system allows engine to reach 190°F [88°C] in <4min and block is claimed to vary <4°F [2°C] corner to corner. Diagram in Jaguar literature is incorrect, so above has been corrected. Coolant is ORANGE Dex-Cool OAT per Ford WSS-M97B44-D2. Ref TSB 100-16. 14.5psig [100kPa] capped PA66 (Polyamide 66, aka Nylon 6/6) expansion tank is robust, but float sensor LNA5740AB only lasts ~75Kmi [120000km]. To release sensor connector, firmly press center of wire clip. Expansion tank rear nipple is plumbed to right front wheel arch degas bottle. Tube must nearly bottom in ~½ full degas bottle or air can be drawn in. Cut ~Ø2” [50mm] hole in rear of wheel arch liner ~8” [200mm] up from rocker panel and install plastic sheet metal plug to make fill check easier. Pressure test system cold at 14.5psig [100kPa] using Harbor Freight tester 69258 and ORANGE #5 adapter. Follow JTIS vacuum fill procedure for best results. Radiator should be replaced before 200Kmi [320000km]. Better thermal insulation than light Aluminum shields should have been used to protect cabin from engine, catalyst and center silencer heat.

Controversy surrounds coolant pumps, with single piece AC Delco pumps claimed by some to be superior, while others have seen them fail in <1yr. BLACK PA66 impellers on early pump degraded in Dex-Cool. Ref TSB 303-60. 4.2L engines got new pumps with BLACK PPS, then WHITE PPS impellers. I have been running terrysjag.com/product/AJ88912X Aluminum impeller pump for 9yrs with zero issues but some claim they have cavitation issues and poor volume output. Always check for seepage from bearings, seam and around mounting gasket. A quality metal gasket rubberized both sides should be supplied, pump should last 120Kmi [200000km] and changing is an easy 1hr DIY job.

Change Outlet Pipe Assembly (OPA), serpentine belt, thermostat and cover, pump and check idler/tensioner pulley bearings concurrently. Jaguar recommends replacing ‘Torque Turn to Tighten’ pulley bolts AJ81256 (Find No. 5 above). I used new bolts with Loctite 242 and torqued them normally for their thread size. OPA on 4.2L engine differs from 4.0L, consisting of three separate moldings (Thermostat Cover, Crossover Pipe and Rear Duct), four-piece thermostat, temperature sensor and seals. No Aluminum version exists, so examine regularly for cracks and replace every 60Kmi [100000km]. Remove intake manifold front plate to improve access to rear duct bolts. Replace rear duct bolts with M6x20 Torx screws C2C42062 (front wing attach bolts) to make future removal easier. Upon reassembly, lightly seat all fasteners to compress seals, torque front pipe assembly screws first, draw bosses at pipe/duct top together with spring clamp, then torque rear duct screws. Replacement takes ~1hr. ‘Clock’ upper hose correctly on nipple so it will not contact fan shroud boss and slowly wear through.

Plastic burp line from thermostat to expansion tank sees substantial engine heat, so I replaced it and short hose segment connecting expansion tank rear nipple to degas bottle tube with 5/16” [8mm] ID reinforced silicone hose z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/reinforced-silicone-coolant-hose-8mm-516-id-p-3414.html. Valley hoses run in hot V-space, supply hose on right side and return on left. Replace small coolant lines running to EGR valve and throttle body concurrently with valley hoses. Knock sensors can be permanently damaged by use of power tools or by immersion in coolant.

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Main radiator is divided into engine coolant and transmission fluid portions and A/C radiator sits in front of it. Drain plug Dorman 61138 is black Polyethylene (PE) with M10-1.5 threads bottom of right end cap facing aft. Barbs retain it in port when unscrewed. Wedge foam rubber or double-stick tape under two fiddly square head fan shroud attach bolt heads to retain. Power steering heat exchanger is low in front and oil cooler further down, hence restyle of front bumper cover improving airflow. Oil diverter valve begins to open at 217°F [100°C] oil temperature, reaching full open at 246°F [120°C]. Radiator lower fins get mangled with age due to road debris.

8 Serpentine Belt

Spring tensioner pulley is released using ⅜” square drive breaker bar. Ref TSB 303-02. Belt replacement is an easy DIY job taking <15min. Tensioner and idler pulley bearings last ~180Kmi [300000km]. 4.2L engines use 6-rib .84” [20mm] wide belt 6PK2320 whereas 4.0L use 7-rib .98” [25mm] wide belt 7PK2328.

9 Intake and Crankcase Ventilation

Snorkel in right front wing feeds air box, up through filter, to upper air box w/MAF sensor, into tube C2N1041, to throttle body. I have run re-usable filter amazon.com/33-2190-High-Performance-Replacement-Filter/dp/B00062ZSDG in stock air box for >90Kmi [150000km]. Lower air box clamp bosses stress crack in engine heat. Lower portion of XK8 naturally aspirated air box XR823351 may be bought from salvage yards. Air box Instrumount EAC8130 often tears/separates with age. Clean MAF sensor every 90Kmi [150000km] using MAF sensor aerosol cleaner. Hood liner/insulator blanket droops with age and, if induction tube is not fully seated, bellows section crests can become damaged. Bellows may crack in sharp transitions, so inspect regularly. Intake manifold Steel front cover inner surface can become pitted in seal area (especially with a catch can, because it no longer gets oiled) causing vacuum leak. Apply DC4 high vacuum grease to plate and seal. If you need smoke machine to locate induction or exhaust leaks, build ‘Mr. Fusion’ on YouTube. MAF should be ~3.6 lb/min [1.5kg/min] at idle and ~11 lb/min [5kg/min] at 2000rpm. Ensure dipstick and breather pipe O-rings and oil filler cap/neck seals do not leak.

Cam covers have internal mesh to reduce oil mist from leaving crankcase, there are no restriction orifices in ports and full load/partial load breathers are reversed from 4.0L engines. Partial load breather pipe AJ88622 with Norma V2 NW15 (15mmIDx2.5mmCS O-ring) on Bank-1 connects Control Valve AJ87773 to intake manifold elbow spigot, while full load breather pipe AJ87221 with Norma V2 NW10 (10mmIDx2.5mmCS O-ring) on Bank-2 connects cam cover to induction tube. Stuck Control Valve can cause rough idle. Breather pipes embrittle in engine heat and eventually crack. I MAKE NEW AJ88622 CRANKCASE BREATHER PIPES FOR $100 US OR $125 OVERSEAS, AS THEY ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE FROM JAGUAR. Mine have right-angle connectors both ends and are more robust and flexible than OE. Marking on connectors merely specifies plastic type PA66 and percentage of glass fill GF30, for recycling purposes. 8

Some atomized oil makes it past internal mesh in cam covers, degrading combustion and coating intake manifold. I installed Tasan Racing 2-Port Closed Catch Can amazon.com/Tasan-Racing-Universal-Aluminum-Separtor/dp/B07HH97RFR with Stainless-Steel barbed fittings amazon.com/gp/product/B017N4U596 Heinmo unit with dipstick is available for slightly more. Ensure unit and plumbing are leak-free. Site in hot location to exhaust moisture or it can freeze up in northern climes, leaving only small full load breather as vent path. I capture ~2.5oz of oil every 5Kmi [8000km].

Configure Catch Can as follows: 1. Remove internal filter and baffle 2. Place small Stainless-Steel pot scrubber inside (IN/OUT markings can now be ignored) 3. Install ⅜” MNPT Stainless-Steel barbed fittings 4. Attach ؼ” [6mm] vacuum rated hose to remote drain petcock or Curtis valve 5. Remove OE partial load breather pipe from Bank-1 and cut at rear transition to make two sections 6. Install hose joiners with spring clamps 7. Mount just above Bank-1 catalyst using fender washers against soft heat shield 8. Use strong zip tie to bind heat shield to refrigerant pipe for support 9. Drain trapped oil at each oil change while warm and close drain petcock tightly

An Intake Manifold Vacuum (IMV) port is handy for gauging general engine health. BARO - MAP = IMV. Cut brake booster pipe in an accessible area and graft in ¼” barbed tee amazon.com/Beduan-Stainless-Barbed-Splitter-Fitting/dp/B07QK7L1T3 using heat gun to soften pipe ends. Plug free barb of tee, drill small hole to snub gauge response and install Silicone Blanking Cap amazon.com/dp/B073JJ7QY6.

Intake elbow brake booster pipe fitting C2S15816 consists of three pieces. Replace Brass ferrule only if obviously damaged, but black PC collet and O-ring must be replaced every ~90Kmi [150000km]. Embrittled O-ring often breaks up and is sucked through engine, leaving nothing behind. Pipe end must be smooth to seal. Higher temperature 8.5mmIDx2.5mmCS Viton O-rings are mcmaster.com/1295N289.

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Remove intake manifold as follows: 1. Pull fuel pump F5 in trunk fuse box 2. Remove engine cover and induction tube 3. Remove breather pipes 4. Unbolt coolant expansion tank 5. Disconnect all sensor, fuel injector, throttle motor and MAP connectors 6. Unbolt EGR valve from throttle body 7. Remove throttle body from intake elbow as needed 8. Disconnect booster and vapor recovery pipes from intake elbow 9. Disconnect fuel supply line at fuel rail 10. Unbolt and remove intake manifold w/fuel rail

10 Fuel System

Returnless fuel system was adopted from Ford 2003MY with new in-tank vane pump C2N1146, integral float sensor and filter sock. Keep tank >¼ full to cool pump. Evaporative canisters and hoses behind rear axle are easily inspected. Engine intake elbow left side spigot receives Norma NW8 pipe from Purge Valve/Resonator in left front wheel arch, behind liner. Many OE Purge Valves were superseded, C2N3045 being current. Ref TSB 303-62am. This item is common to some Fords. Valve sticking during opening/closing or plumbing leaks can cause rough idle, with fuel trims varying wildly. Jaguar specifies Premium (91RON) unleaded fuel.

If engine is shut down then started again in extremely hot conditions, vapor may have formed in dead-ended fuel rail, with winter blend fuel increasing this propensity. If you get a lazy fuel injector, engine may idle rough until excess fuel burns off and there is risk of cylinder washdown if engine does not run long enough. Scan tool may set DTCs P0301 through P0308 (cylinders 1 through 8 respectively) DTC P0316 and MIL. Injector cleaning is recommended.

Ignition switch is OFF, I = AUX/ACC, II = IGN ON and III = MOM CRANK. Positions II and III supply B+ to Fuel Pump Module (FPM) (no fuel pump relay) via trunk fuse box F5. Engine Control Module (ECM) reads fuel pressure sensor AJ87977 and temperature sensor LRA1600BA and duty cycles pump ground circuit from 5 to 50%, regulating 55psi relative to MAP (or ~50psig [350kPa] fuel rail at MSL). Inertia Switch C2N1918 behind kick panel ahead of hood release disables fuel, ignition and opens door locks in high impact accident.

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Pull F5 in trunk fuse box to disable fuel pump. Start engine and allow to stall from lack of fuel, jack up left rear and remove wheel to access fuel filter for replacement. Two 4” extensions snapped together are needed to reach 10mm headed nut holding filter bracket to underbody. 4.2L fuel filters have Ø5/16” [8mm] straight tubes with ridges to capture radial springs in Norma-Quick fittings. Drive tool amazon.com/Lisle-39410-Fuel-Linedisconnect/dp/B003V5BZRI firmly/deeply to release. Fuel will not siphon out of tank with filter disconnected. Fuel in forward line will back-drain, but volume is small. Flow direction is shown on filter, rimmed end faces down and forward. Ensure quick disconnect fittings are snapped together and Schrader valve core in fuel rail is well seated before reinstalling F5 and repressurizing to check for leaks. It is ~45min job. Pulse Damper near fuel rail merely smooths out pulses. To disconnect fuel line at fuel rail, un-hook safety clip and use tool 310-D005 or equivalent. Unplug sensor and injector connectors to remove rail with injectors attached. On bench remove clips and injectors, marking with cylinder number for reference.

Orange Denso 20 lb/hr @ 43.5psig [300kPa] 13.6Ω impedance fuel injectors AJ82353 (common to Land Rover, Ford and Mazda) are used. They have cruciform array of 12 tiny orifices which must be kept absolutely clean/clear. Injector orifices and internal pintles accumulate varnish over time and valve action can become sluggish. Install new filters injector-rehab.com/product/bosch-universal-filter-basket and pintle caps injector-rehab.com/product/denso-ford-mazda-cap. Screw #10 sheet metal screw into filter and pry out. Noid light Lisle 27800 or current limited LED can confirm turn-on pulses from ECM. If you DIY clean injectors, use safe/low TURN ON voltage with <80% duty cycle to avoid overheating coils. When injector shuts OFF, back EMF produces a sharp spike, so use 1N4005 flyback diode as discharge path to protect your switch. I clean mine outside ultrasonically in B-12. Replace 8mmIDx3.5mmCS upper and 9mmIDx3mmCS lower Viton O-rings. Reseat injectors individually into rail and reinstall retention clip before reattaching to intake manifold and final leak testing.

11 Throttle

4.2L electronically controlled throttle body C2C20541 is new, simple and trouble free. Ensure ignition is OFF, then unplug motor and TPS connectors before cleaning. Throttle position is relearned once reconnected and powered ON. Back-probe TPS BLU wire Key ON engine OFF to ensure 0.40 to 0.46VDC at idle and 4.5 to 4.85VDC Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Make small adjustments until both idle and WOT voltages are within ranges. Tighten screws and recheck. Drive-by-wire throttle gives nice linear power delivery, but as with most modern cars, there is significant ‘rev hang’. Special tool and procedure in XK8 Workshop Manual sets cable tension from pedal up to sender. More stylish pedal covers are available from ultimatepedals.com/jaguar. Accelerator stop button (6HP26 TCM does not support kick-down switch) can come off during interior vacuuming and it just slips back on.

12 Transmission

ZF 6HP26 transmission is robust, supporting engines ≤444 lb-ft of torque. Ratios are 4.17, 2.34, 1.52, 1.14, 0.87 and 0.69. In reverse (3.40 ratio) ECM limits throttle body opening to 18°. Limp home mode puts transmission into 5th gear. Change fluid and filter/pan every 60Kmi [100000km]. Only ~6qt of 10qt capacity drains with filter/pan removal (remainder being trapped in torque converter, lines and cooler). Loosen fill plug before drain plug. ZF Lifeguard6, Pentosin ATF1 and Redline D6 are acceptable fluids. Only ZF replacement parts are recommended. OE filters are made by Filtran. Summit Racing sells cooler port adapters for side of transmission.

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Raybestos, Gary Ferraro and Mickey Figueroa videos are on YouTube. Note clutch pressures before and after performing service/repair if feasible. TCM monitors input/output shaft speeds for rationality and increases fluid pressures to clutches automatically to compensate for wear and adapt to driving pattern. Verify firmware is current, perform any repair work, replace filter/pan, refill fluid, clear adaptions, then do relearning cycle. Ref TSB 307-01 and JTB00145. If you get ZF bark during gear changes, approved friction additive may be needed. Replace OE T27 filter pan screws with T40s CTSC 073610148601 and install using anti-seize compound. Examine magnets in old filter/pan for swarf. I haven’t yet tried it myself, but access for refilling may be improved by replacing fill plug with fumotooildrainvalve.com FG2SX (M18-1.5 threaded right-angle valve).

Sequence for fluid refill is as follows: 1. Raise vehicle level with engine OFF and cool 2. Add fluid until it drips from fill port 3. START engine 4. Promptly add fluid until it again drips from fill port 5. Follow JTIS purging procedure 6. Allow fluid to reach 104°F [40°C] 7. Add fluid until it drips from fill port before reaching 122°F [50°C] 8. Reinstall fill plug or close valve 9. Engine OFF

~80% of failures result from leaking bridge seal, tube seals (sleeves) or worn E clutch pack (Code 4F85) and tend to show up around 140Kmi. Other problems are lazy valve body solenoids, sticking accumulator pistons and worn internal bushings. To release Mechatronic sleeve, pull white handle. Remove T40 headed bolts and drop valve body to change seals. Correct 6HP26 bridge seal plastic is .567” [14.4mm] in height. Valve body rebuild involves splitting, cleaning, replacing accumulators, separator plate, solenoids and foam gasket. Always record location of check balls. Note codes (usually A051/B051) on separator plate before ordering kit. thectsc.com sonnax.com and transtar1.com sell valve body refurb kits, job is doable without removing transmission and DIY can save ~$1K. Sonnax 95740-15K accumulator kit replaces OE pistons and rubber bumpers with hard anodized Aluminum pistons and Steel springs. When reinstalling, ensure shifter dogs properly engage rod.

Remove screw/plug (Find No. 2) on shifter surround and defeat shifter lockout with ignition key to work around faulty Brake Pedal Position (BPP) switch or solenoid. You may need to do this to get it on a transporter. Solenoid (Find No. 5 below) can slap against housing when applying brake pedal in PARK and placing an EPDM foam pad inside will soften the stop.

12

In Sport Mode (shifter surround button UP and lit) higher rpm shift points suit more assertive driving and J-Gate allows manual selection of a lower top gear for better control in town and on mountain roads. Linear Switch Module C2N2467 (LSM, Find No. 3 above) gets intermittent >100Kmi [160000km] and manifests as inoperative Sport Mode (no Sport Mode lamp), no J-Gate functionality (nor manual gear LEDs) and sluggish shifting. It resets itself after two key cycles and is caused by LSM contacts sending implausible signals to TCM, but no DTCs or Limp Home warnings are set. Disassemble LSM, remove surface oxidation from Phosphor Bronze fingers and PC board, treat contact areas with DeoxIT Gold G5 and reassemble.

When ignition key is turned from OFF to position II, various monitor checks commence. If key is switched from position II to III too quickly, these checks may have insufficient time to complete, DTC P1000 will set and you may be unable to pass smog tests until cleared. If instead you switch from II to III in a more leisurely fashion, DTC P1111 should set, indicating all checks have run to completion. If you always drive in Sport Mode, CCM may never complete.

The following process verifies transmission system functionality and, if successful, sets DTC P1111: 1. Begin with engine and transmission at operating temperature, Sport Mode OFF, Shifter in PARK, Ignition OFF. 2. Connect OBD-II Scan tool. 3. Ignition ON, but DO NOT START. Attempt to shift out of PARK without pressing brake pedal. Verify shifter remains locked in PARK with P lamp illuminated. 4. Press and hold brake pedal. Shift into REVERSE and verify R lamp illuminated. 5. Set parking brake. Press and hold brake pedal. Attempt to START engine. Verify engine will not START when in REVERSE. 6. Shift into NEUTRAL and verify N lamp illuminated. START engine. 7. With hand brake set and brake pedal pressed, shift into DRIVE, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd for >5sec each. Verify D, 5, 4, 3, 2 lamp illuminated in each position. 8. Shift into 4th and verify 4 lamp illuminated. Shift into DRIVE and verify D lamp illuminated. Shift into NEUTRAL and verify N lamp illuminated. 9. Shift into REVERSE, release brakes, drive in REVERSE a short distance and STOP. 10. Shift into 2nd, accelerate to 40mph, maintain for >5sec. Shift into 3rd, maintain 40mph for >5sec. Shift into 4th, maintain 40mph for >5sec. Shift into 5th, maintain 50 to 80mph for >5sec. Shift into DRIVE, maintain 60 to 80mph for >1mi. Sport Mode ON, maintain 60 to 80mph for >1mi. 11. Stop and shift into PARK, leave engine running. 12. Verify CCM tests have completed and DTC P1111 is set.

OE shift knob is rather plain, so see British Autowood etsy.com/shop/BritishCarWoodwork. Knob screws off lower jam collar. Install using Loctite 242.

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13 Driveline

Driveline has a Guibo at transmission end and center stabilization bearing for refinement. When replacing, critical balancing of driveline must not be disturbed. Study and/or photograph everything before disassembly and ensure you have it oriented correctly prior to reassembly. Coat with DC4 to keep rubber from drying out.

14 Differential

There is no drain plug and ½” square drive fill plug is difficult to access on this 3.06:1 differential. Capacity is 2qt of 75W-90 Synthetic. Some owners have cut holes in front wall of spare tire compartment to gain access from trunk, with marginal success. Perform fluid service at 120Kmi [200000km] even if pinion seal has not started to leak. No Limited Slip Differentials were installed in XK8s and shifting is delayed when accelerating through turns. Jack up rear end (to let half shafts rotate freely) to grease U-joint Zerk fittings yearly and they should last >200Kmi [320000km]. They tend to throw grease, so power wash before re-lubing.

15 Exhaust and Emissions

Exhaust manifolds are thin wall Stainless-Steel, attached with Aluminum heat shields, long bolts and Aluminum spacers to maintain proper tension and compensate for varying coefficients of thermal expansion. This is a low thermal inertia system with tightly coupled catalysts and their Steel bodies rust badly. An electrically operated EGR valve, plumbed between Bank-1 exhaust manifold and intake elbow, was reintroduced in 2003MY for emissions compliance. Gaskets can leak and valve pintle sometimes sticks as valve ages. EGR valve that does not close can cause rough idle.

O2 sensor connectors mount on tabs between throttle body and firewall. Each mated connector pair lifts straight up off mounting tab with sustained pull, presenting enough slack to release latch and unmate. Remove upstream sensors using ⅞” [22mm] crowfoot socket, use supplied anti-seize compound and torque to 33ft-lb [45Nm]. Wiring harness upstream connectors are gray and downstream are black.

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Air/fuel ratio (upstream) sensors are Denso wideband (from 5:1 to 20:1) linear type. Wideband sensors operate around 1300°F [705°C] and vary current from -5mA to +5mA. Lambda (Downstream O2) sensors are Denso conventional nonlinear narrow band type. They operate at 600°F [315°C] with best accuracy from 0.4V to 0.8V (equating to air/fuel ratios of 15:1 to 14.2:1) output. Both are 4-wire heated types and their life is ~120Kmi [200000km]. Upstream sensors are easily accessible from above, but coolant expansion tank must be removed to gain access to left side. Downstream sensors thread into catalyst bungs underneath and are difficult to access. I changed downstream sensors at 136Kmi [220000km], even though they were still working, but wish I would have done it sooner. I sprayed them with CorrosionX Penetrant over a period of weeks while continuing to drive, cut wires off, used 22mm socket, several wobble extensions and long breaker-bar to extract without having to remove any other exhaust system components.

Five box Stainless-Steel exhaust system is nice and quiet, making me reluctant to alter it. Pipes above rear axle are flattened and quite restrictive. Replacing aft boxes with aftermarket straight-through pipes can produce a more aggressive sound, but irritating drones may result at certain rpms. There are also full ‘Cat Back’ systems, but they are spendy.

16 Electrical

Parasitic draw >50mA should be investigated. Pull fuses one at a time to located offending circuit(s). Used vehicles may be equipped with GPS tracking devices and locating them can be challenging.

To perform Hard Reset, do either of the following: 1. Remove F4 (10A) from Engine Management Fusebox and wait >30min before reinstalling (erases ECM memory only) 2. Disconnect battery negative cable, touch it to positive battery terminal for 60sec, then reinstall battery negative cable (erases memory in some modules, but not TCM)

Jaguar schematics are conventional, with switches and relays depicted in their normal states/conditions. Power/Ground inputs are identified as always live B+ (numbered squares), switched B+ at key position (numbered circles) and switched Ground at key position (numbered octagons), so always check powers/grounds first during troubleshooting. All relays and inductive loads have TVS protection. In a roadside emergency, good relay from trivial circuit can be swapped for faulty relay in critical one. I found two relays were swapped on wrong tabs in my car, so I restored them to agree with Jaguar documentation by matching wire colors. Brown SPST relays LJA6703AA are most common. Relay terminal numbering defies Bosch/DIN convention and B+ sometimes comes in on Pin1 (Bosch/DIN Pin86) and other times on Pin2 (Bosch/DIN Pin85). F1 position is always adjacent to notched corner of each fuse box.

Ensure car is unlocked, soft top and/or windows down and key in pocket if you disconnect battery. If you mistakenly close trunk lid with battery disconnected, connect external +12VDC to power terminal near either engine bay fuse box, or use manual key slot in right rear badge. DON’T try to start car with power connected in this manner or bad things can happen. High Power Module fuses are in trunk. If starter refuses to crank, 500A fuse may be blown. If ALL circuits are non-functional, 250A fuse may be blown. If single circuit is non-functional, check its related fuse(s) per following diagrams. Jaguar uses R as reference designator for Relay on schematics, but K is proper.

DRIVER’S SIDE FASCIA FUSE BOX K1 IGNITION POSITIVE RELAY FUSE RATING CIRCUIT (FUNCTION) F1 20 DRIVER’S SEAT CONTROL MODULE F2 10 EXTERIOR MIRROR HEATERS F3 30 WINDSCREEN WIPERS F4 5 MAJOR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, PATS F5 15 BODY PROCESSOR MODULE LOGIC F6 5 CONSOLE SWITCHES, KEY TRANSPONDER MODULE, SOFT TOP HEADER CONSOLE F7 15 BODY PROCESSOR MODULE SOLENOIDS F8 10 DRIVER’S SEAT AND HEADREST MOVEMENT, STEERING COLUMN MOVEMENT F9 - NOT USED F10 5 RESTRAINT SYSTEM F11 20 DRIVER’S SIDE CLIMATE CONTROL BLOWER F12 10 MIRROR HTR RELAYS, A/C CLUTCH, ECM, BLOWER MOTORS, PS CONTROL MODULE F13 5 DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR POWER F14 10 CRUISE CONTROL, MAJOR INTRUMENT CLUSTER, SEAT BELTS F15 25 DRIVER’S DOOR CONTROL MODULE F16 5 INTERIOR MIRROR, WINDSCREEN HEATER, RAIN SENSOR, LINEAR SWITCH MODULE F17 10 ACCESSORY SOCKET F18 10 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE

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PASSENGER’S SIDE FASCIA FUSE BOX K1 AUXILIARY POSITIVE RELAY FUSE RATING CIRCUIT (FUNCTION) F1 20 PASSENGER’S SEAT CONTROL MODULE F2 10 DOOR LOCKING ACTUATORS F3 - NOT USED F4 5 DOOR SWITCHES, DOOR LOCKING F5 5 TELEPHONE F6 10 CLIMATE CONTROL MODULE F7 20 BODY PROCESSOR MODULE STEERING COLUMN MOTORS F8 10 PASSENGER’S SEAT AND HEADREST MOVEMENT F9 10 RADIO/CASSETTE

F10 5 TELEPHONE F11 20 PASSENGER’S CLIMATE CONTROL BLOWER F12 5 RADIO/CASSETTE F13 10 INTERIOR LIGHTING DIMMING F14 20 CIGAR LIGHTER F15 25 PASSENGER’S DOOR CONTROL MODULE F16 5 NAVIGATION F17 15 BODY PROCESSOR MODULE EXTERIOR LIGHTING F18 - NOT USED

Engine Management Fuse Box (inside Firewall Bulkhead)

Engine Compartment Fuse Box (near DSC) 16

Trunk Fuse Box/Tray (near Battery)

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Windows are frameless, drop slightly upon lifting door handle and bump back up into rubber seal upon door closing. DO NOT disconnect or reconnect battery Ignition ON. Ensure Ignition is OFF, disconnect battery negative cable for ≥60sec before beginning repair work and reconnect upon completion, as many circuits remain live ignition OFF. When battery power is restored, window positions must be retaught. Sit inside, close both doors, turn Ignition ON (Position II), close window and hold switch until click is heard, then lower window and hold switch until another click is heard. Close window, confirm drop upon door opening and rise upon door closing. Do this for both windows/doors. If loss of BOTH window limits occurs repeatedly, there is a problem with either battery, parasitic drain and/or charging system. Week and Year of manufacture are stamped into battery terminal. Battery vents overboard through tube.

Alternator C2C19630 contains replaceable internal rectifier/regulator JLM20187 cooled by forced air from C-shaped tube and flared duct HJA4477AD (retained by single M5 bolt) underneath. Because duct blocks oil filter access, it is first item removed, last reinstalled during oil changes and often misplaced by careless service personnel. It clips into radiator crossbar up front and they are no longer available. Ensure it is installed correctly as shown below. Alternator has no integral fan so every 20°F [10°C] cooler you can keep rectifier/regulator doubles its life.

Retainer tabs on side repeater lamps (and other similar polystyrene or polycarbonate lamp fixtures) stress-crack with age. Fill gap between tab and body with small piece of rubber channel to extend their life. A small piece of EPDM sponge placed under fuse box cover latches can restore their mojo. Replacement power antenna mast is A068 from antennamastsrus.com. Chrome antenna nut has exceedingly small wrench flats down in rubber seal C2N3698 and mast track teeth face aft.

Various chimes come from Ø2½” 65Ω speaker on steering column. I installed larger 35Ω rectangular speaker behind Adaptive Speed Control and Valet switch holes on underscuttle to direct more sound at driver and used Aspirator Grille GJA6100AA___ (add three-letter interior color code) to fill empty Valet switch hole. I still wish I could get greater volume, but I have found circuit too ‘load sensitive’ for an amplifier stage to work without oscillation.

If you get ‘Check Rear Lights’ alert, check rear lamps IN THE DARK to ensure ALL are working, including redundant center tail lamps. If you get both ‘Check Rear Lights’ AND ‘Cruise [Control] not Available’ alerts, BPP switch is faulty. Internal micro switches Cherry DK1GSND1 get flakey with age. Ref TSB 206-07. Alternative micro switches Omron D2HWA211D (or DS) are widely available and inexpensive. Remove driver’s seat and dash underscuttle and lay on your back. DO NOT remove Steel bracket from firewall as it is difficult to refit. Ensure ratcheting self-adjuster is cocked as shown, so inner pawl (6:30 position as shown in photo below) rests against its stop.

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The procedure is: 1. REACH up through insulation blanket, FIND and UNPLUG cable connector 2. CUT zip tie and REMOVE lower nut 3. PRESS and HOLD brake pedal (starting engine can get pedal to initially go lower) 4. LIFT BPP switch clear of lower stud and SLIDE BPP switch down and out of top mount 5. Again, PRESS and HOLD pedal 6. FIT new BPP switch into bracket top mount and over lower stud 7. RELEASE and PULL pedal to the stop to allow ratchet to self-adjust 8. INSTALL lower nut and tighten 9. PLUG IN connector and INSTALL zip tie

Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) Tin (Sn) solder joints are brittle and can crack when overstressed. Modules in tough thermal and vibration environments (like engine bay) are at risk. Aluminum electrolytic capacitors in modules dry out with age and have a 20yr life. Rodents have been known to dine on wire insulation if they take up residence. I use Tesa wire loom fabric tape instead of vinyl electrician’s tape to bind wiring. Color coding is abbreviated as follows.

B = Black G = Green K = pinK LG = Light Green LN = Light browN LU = Light blUe N = browN O = Orange P = Purple (Violet) R = Red S = Slate (Gray) U = blUe W = White Y = Yellow NCA = No Color Assigned NW = browN with White tracer/stripe. More info can be found at jcna.com/lucas-wiring-colors-0

Plastic connector housings embrittle in engine bay heat. Not all housings number contact positions, so take photos prior to disassembly. FordTechMakuloco YouTube channel auto connector unpinning video is great. bmotorsports.com and corsa- technic.com/category sell connector kits based on number of contact positions (ways). Any time a connector is unmated or an attachment undone, it is good practice to treat with DeoxIT Gold G5 prior to reattaching. For back-probing connectors, use fabric T-pins.

17 Security and Horns

To confirm body VIN against ECM VIN, put key in ignition, hold down A/B button on trip reset panel and last digits of ECM VIN will appear in status panel. Replacement Fiamm horns are Ford 9L3Z-13832-A. Remote fob LJE2610AC from keylessentryremotefob.com takes CR2032 battery and directions for replacement are in Driver’s Handbook. Changing it DOES NOT require reprogramming, provided you do not push any buttons while battery is out.

Programming steps for a new remote are: 1. CLOSE both doors WITHOUT LOCKING 2. PULL and HOLD high beam stalk AFT 3. INSERT key and TURN to AUX/ACC (Position I) 4. RELEASE high beam stalk 5. PULL high beam stalk AFT and RELEASE 4 times to enter programming mode 6. PRESS and RELEASE LOCK or UNLOCK on remote 5 times If programming two remotes, PRESS and RELEASE twice on one and thrice on the other If programming >2 remotes, total of all remote button presses must equal 5 7. WAIT 15sec until chime sounds and lamp illuminates on shifter surround, exiting program mode 8. TURN Ignition key OFF (Position 0) and REMOVE

18 Suspension

Front wheel bearings are robust sealed greased-for-life double cartridge type. DIY replacement is possible, although some owners elect to replace entire spindles (Find No. 4 in above line drawing) rather than wrestle bearings out. YouTube video shows job being done using no special tools.

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Front wishbones attach to exceptionally light but rigid cast Aluminum cross-member attached to frame with bushings tuned to provide appropriate compliance when subjected to cornering loads. Engine mounts are hydraulic, containing a deep purple (a subtle Jon Lord and Ritchie Blackmore reference) fluid. Mine began leaking right after running over a piece of 4”x4” at freeway speed, blowing out passenger’s side tire sidewall and bending wheel. Passenger side mount replacement is easy, but driver’s side requires lowering, but not removing steering rack. Bolts attaching cross-member can seize in situ due to galvanic action and should get anti-seize compound applied prior to reassembly. Despite good design and progressive springs up front, low speeds produce harsh ride over road surfaces such as brick or cobblestone. Anti-roll bar bushings are simple to replace from above, taking ~30min.

Pay close attention to caster adjustment shims when changing upper wishbone bushings. Default shim location is shown below, but yours may be different. Positive caster tips vertical link axis backwards (like a motorcycle fork) for stability and Jaguar suggests nominal 6.6º left and 7.3º right for North America. If your car drifts off sloped road surfaces and your toe is set correctly, increase caster on low side (or reduce caster on high side). Four Stepped Washers CAC3533, two .063” [1.6mm] Blue Shims MJA1467AA and two .035” [0.9mm] Red Shims MJA1467BA are used each side, but arranged differently. Blue shims affect caster by 0.4º and Red shims by 0.2º. Urethane bushings have flush ends and use supplied flat washers in lieu of OE stepped washers. They must be well lubed with Prothane Super Grease or they will squeak. Ref TSB 204-16. Brake line mounts should be ground off slightly to clear large washers during bolt removal.

Upper wishbones theoretically provide fixed camber of ~1º, but an eccentric bolt JZB100086 is available if needed. Bolt only has ~1º of authority, so it cannot perform miracles. To change out aft lower control arm bolt, steering rack must be dropped slightly. Rough camber check can be made using smartphone running Clinometer app with car parked on any reasonably level surface. Total toe should be ~0.25º.

Front coil-over upper mounts MJA2170BD deteriorate with age, increasing negative camber. Welsh urethane versions are your best choice. Damper shaft can be held using Great Neck 25284 socket. If original end nut was over-torqued, use carbide disc to slice nut. Changing a front coil-over takes ~90min. Spring compressors, ratchet straps and bench vise are needed to compress and stabilize unit while working on it. Nut covers omitted on later cars are NJA3975AB large and NJD3975AB small. Shaft bump stops MJA2150BA will usually need replacing. Front Shocks are Bilstein 24-067263.

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Rear control arm suspension reduces natural tendency to squat under acceleration. Springs are seated directly on lower wishbone reducing friction for better ride comfort and noise isolation. Half-shafts serve as upper suspension members. Rear camber is set at ~1º with nominal Toe of 0.16º each side and is adjusted by changing half-shaft spacer/shim, each 0.5mm change being 0.1°. Shims are CBC480635 through CBC480675, last digits indicating thickness from 3.5mm to 7.5mm. They are ~$50 each, so measure what you have first. Rear Shocks are Bilstein 24-067270.

Entire rear suspension sits on stamped steel cross-member bolted to body through elastomeric bushings tuned to isolate road harshness. In addition, lower control arm pivots allow some rearward deflection when subjected to sharp impact like a pothole or bump. Anti-roll bar and drop-link bushings are simple to replace from underneath, taking ~30min. Due to limited space, slim spring compressor like Sir Tools ST9050 is needed to remove/replace rear shocks. Rear wheel inner and outer bearings are not sealed and probably need replacing before 200Kmi [320000km].

19 Steering

Power assisted rack and pinion steering uses ZF Servotronic components. Jaguar's system has speed-sensitive variable power assist and variable rack ratio, delivering full hydraulic boost at low speeds for easy parking with assist diminishing as speed rises to give well-weighted, confident feel at highway speeds. Due to high assist at low speeds and wide front tires, driving slowly on scalloped road surfaces results in just a bit of tramlining. Steering rack rate increases as limits of wheel travel left and right are approached. This makes parking less tedious yet provides appropriate levels of assist ― not overly sensitive to slight steering wheel movement ― for good stability at highway speeds.

Column tilt/reach motors/drives do not always cycle properly and lithium grease eliminates noise, usually on tilt drive. Motors are driven to their programmed positions or stall limits. My memory positions are set full out/full down. Reach drive on top uses short cable JLM12187C that eventually fatigues and birdcages if continuously driven to limit. Replace with 3.9” [100mm] long piece of Ø.219” [5mm] Stainless-Steel rod with last .850” [22mm] of each end ground .150” [4mm] square.

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I did the following to get system to cycle as reliably as I could: 1. Drop underscuttle to access steering column lower reach motor 2. Cut White/blUe wire on connector going to motor 3. Solder in 2.7KΩ series resistor and sleeve/tape 4. Reassemble and set column movement switch ON 5. Hit memory buttons to reactivate circuit and reset memory positions 6. Now lift will be followed shortly by retract upon key removal

20 Brakes

Ate (Continental/Teves) MK25 4-channel Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) unit in split front-rear arrangement is used along with tandem servo/booster 03.7848-1801.4 and single-pot single-acting calipers. System is equipped with Emergency Brake Assist (EBA) that assists in an emergency should driver fail to apply maximum braking effort. Rotors are Centric Ø325x28mm vented slotted drilled front, Ø305x20mm vented slotted drilled rear, with Goodridge braided PTFE lines. Limits on rotor wear are 1” [26mm] front and .730” [18.5mm] rear. Relube caliper pins with high temperature ceramic grease or silicone paste. System takes DOT4 fluid and I pressure bleed in JTIS recommended LF, RF, LR, RR sequence. Harbor Freight 69258 tester with BLACK #7 adapter can be used, provided reservoir is kept full. If your rotors are directional (handed), ensure internal vanes face correct direction, drawing air in from hub and exhausting at periphery. To upgrade to Brembos, you will need ≥18" wheels, XKR/Brembo calipers/bolts/rotors/pads/dust shields and XKR stainless braided PTFE hoses/unions. Tap out existing bracket holes to M14-1.5. Rears are straightforward change to XKR parts.

Wheel speed sensors are conventional variable reluctance types connected to main harness by short link cables. Front link cables get flakey because steering flexes them so much. I felt shudder in brake pedal and DTCs C1155 and C1233 set when left front link cable became intermittent at 100Kmi [160000km] and right front did so shortly thereafter.

Fuses critical to safety are covered with orange plastic caps to discourage their casual removal. All connections from DSC unit to hydraulic block are inductive and it just unscrews, but all piping is formed downward, making removal without draining and undoing piping virtually impossible.

All sensors and switches must be functional, or DSC system shuts down and sets ABS warning lamp. Wheel speed sensors producing anomalous outputs may cause transmission shifting issues. Check wheel bearing play first (especially rears). Solder joint fractures on DSC circuit board are common, setting DTC C1095. Hole-saw ~Ø1” opening in notched corner of cover, re-solder large pin joints prone to stress cracking and RTV in a plastic plug. DSC reduces torque to wheels by controlling throttle position, ignition timing and fuel supply. Automatic Stability Control (ASC) is operational at all speeds to enhance traction in slippery conditions. When wheel spin is detected, system calculates engine torque reduction that will not cause tires to slip. First, throttle angle is reduced, but because effect is not instantaneous, ignition timing is retarded and fuel injectors cut off. Switched DSC and ASC OFF to power out of snow or when using tire chains.

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21 Wheels and Tires

Wheel hubs rust badly due to trapped moisture. I did brakes at 100Kmi [160000km] but wished I had done it sooner. Use CorrosionX Rust Penetrant spray and rotor puller as needed. Wire brush and give them light coat of Rustoleum, NACORR 1151 or Noxudol 750 before reassembly. Wheels are hub-centric, so grease centering bosses to keep from sticking to hubs and oil stud threads. Two-piece 22mm OE lug nuts (nut with crimped-on dress cap) are a bad design that can spin or come apart. Ensure you can get them off when you need to. Replacement single piece 21mm nuts are Gorilla 73188SM brandsport.com/grla-73188sm.html used with 79903 washers but pack a 21mm lug wrench.

Room for wider tires or wheels having less offset is provided within wheel arches. Slightly increasing track reduces weight transfer and getting wheels flusher with wheel arches improves aerodynamics and appearance. I installed .80” [20mm] H&R 4085738 hub centric wheel spacers and have experienced no noticeable negative effect on steering feel, tire wear or tramlining. OE Chrome wheels experience plating separation, leading to bead seating area leaks. Ref TSB 204-06. Your tire shop needs to inspect plating in this area during tire mounting and advise you, however this is a bad time to find out you need a replacement wheel. If you need new or refurbished wheels, some are much harder to find. In US I can recommend stockwheels.com and midwestwheelandtire.com. Specialty wheel shops can straighten bent wheels, fix scuffs, replate or powder coat.

I prefer Michelin Super Sport PS4 tires and front set will last 2X rear. If you have Jaguar wheel locks, socket and key wrench sit in tool kit under space saver spare. Hole in spare wheel should align with pocket. Drop socket in, open end up, then key wrench hex down. I run 32psig [221kPa] in driver’s side and 30psig [207kPa] in passenger’s side tires for best wear profile. I have had weights sling off after rebalancing due to adhesive residue not being fully removed with wire brush. Observe high or heavy spot markings when fitting new tires. Ref TSB 204-18. In 2011, Lead (Pb) weights were replaced by Iron/Steel (Fe) or Zinc (Zn) as part of Global Green Initiatives and now three times as many weights are needed. OE wheel and engine cover growler center caps were cheesy. Nicer looking replacements MNA6249AB are available and there are colors other than British Racing green.

22 Windscreen, Washers and Wipers

OE Triplex windscreen GJF8801BC (Fuyao FW02363 GTN is equivalent) on my car has both rain and light sensors. Twelve 2.75” [70mm] GJB8812AA plastic strips, two 1.38” [35mm] GJB8812BA plastic strips, one LJD3850AA rain sensor gel pad and eight plastic windscreen underscuttle anchor nuts XR82312 are needed. To release rearview mirror from mounting cleat, remove plastic trim pieces, knock it forward and down with heel of your hand. When reinstalling, ensure mirror is fully seated, to avoid image jiggle. Spring clip riveted to mirror foot gets loose with age and I tightened/stabilized mine with JB Weld. Test rain sensor to ensure it has not been damaged. Rain sensor has dodgy service history, with some owners deciding it is just not worth the effort, but mine still works even after windshield changeout. Windscreen underscuttle attaches with 8 screws and black plastic shoulder washers which can fall out from underneath, never to be seen again. I use black PA66 countersunk washers as suitable topside replacements.

Wipers are 21” and have washer fluid tubing running to arm mounted nozzles. Passenger’s side wiper shaft is in an area where hood trailing edge creates lift (like blowing across an open bottle). The longer you drive >90mph [145kph], the more it wants to suck cap GJA8966AB right off, so use Gorilla Glue on it. Nut and shaft will rust due to trapped moisture, so give a shot of Noxudol 750 and replace Steel nut with Stainless-Steel. I use PIAA Aero Vogue silicone wiper blade assemblies because they adjust to curves of windscreen (parked vs in motion) more effectively than do beam blades. Applying RainX to windscreen yearly is good practice.

Headlamp washer nozzles can be adjusted, but after many years of washer fluid solids buildup, they are often frozen in position and sockets crack due to age. Pop them out and lube. Test aim using pumped stream of water before reinstalling. This is most easily done by removing entire headlamp unit. Washer fluid containing insufficient alcohol (Methanol was removed to render them less toxic) can foster bacteria growth in hot conditions and specifically Legionella bacteria can be spread when aerosolized. Add isopropyl or denatured alcohol to fortify, cut road grime and resist freezing. More alcohol does everything better, but too much can degrade blades and paint.

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Washer fluid neck-to-reservoir joint can leak as rubber grommet dries out with age. Repair as follows: 1. Remove unit from left front wheel arch 2. Disassemble reservoir to filler neck joint 3. Remove large rubber grommet 4. Clean everything in vicinity of joint with Isopropyl Alcohol 5. Butter up grommet outside and inside with marine adhesive 6. Reassemble grommet, neck and reservoir 7. Reinstall and allow to cure in situ

23 Soft Top

Soft top fabric and headliner are attached to folding aluminum framework identical to Aston Martin DB7, engineered by Karmann to provide low stack height. Rear space needed for stowage of soft top and actuating mechanism puts seat back more upright. Operation is by momentary rocker switch on center console while traveling <10mph [15kph]. Latching, unlatching and window operation are all automatically sequenced. When using door key method to lower soft top, all windows are driven fully down. Benign creaking noises come from soft top latching sockets as body flexes over bumps.

OE headliner is too delicate for rough scrubbing and I replaced mine. Follow TSB 501-13 for early two-piece headliners and Shop Manual for single piece. Cantrails and rubber seals need not be removed. Fragile ABS rear window OE rear window surround must be reused. I roughed up weak/cracked areas of surround both sides, used ½” strips of open weave polyester fabric and J-B Weld Plastic Bonder applied using acid brush to reinforce. Holes were drilled out to .080” and a running stitch made using waxed lacing cord. gahh.com aftermarket headliners are made of more robust multilayer fabric in beige, gray or black (not an OE option). You need two replacement plastic barrel inserts BMW 51411802258 for rear bow ends, ten Ø⅛“ x ½”L dome head Aluminum/Aluminum pop rivets, some extra-strong self-adhesive 1”W Velcro Hook Tape and two fir tree clips. Lift cylinders are behind rear seat reinforcing bars and speaker enclosures. Right-side has actuating/limit switches. Some owners have seen upper brackets work loose from cylinders. Ref TSB 501-11. I installed remote controlled soft top kit from thejagwrangler.com and it is super. North American Custom Covers makes a protective cover RP135 for the soft top.

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Use only Pentosin CHF11S clear green synthetic fluid. PowerPacker brand pump spikes to 1600psig [11000kPa]. Eventually PVC jacket on OE hoses deteriorates, resulting in end fitting crimp failure. It is not a matter of IF, only WHEN this will occur and a fluid drip from overhead console grating landing on your shifter surround or wet audio amplifier in your trunk portends a dreaded ‘green shower’. Ambient heat car sees over time is a major factor. DON’T REPLACE WITH OEM HOSES. Higher quality reduced OD hoses rated for >23,600psig [163000kPa], other soft top components and cylinder refurbishing services are available from tophydraulics.com. Hoses running to front latch are tedious to replace because, much like headliner replacement, interior gets dismantled. DIY will save you BIG bucks and I did it leisurely in ~8hrs over four days. Left door tread plate fascia must be replaced, but everything else is reused. System is self-bleeding during operation. Marvin Johnson of jaguartoprepair.com travels about the US doing this job in one day at a very reasonable price. Rear lift cylinder hoses substantially outlast front latch hoses and are much easier to access for replacement.

To get rear side windows up after manual top closure, unplug relays BT74 and BT76 in trunk fuse box. They are most forward of two small black relay pairs and have retention clips both ends. Short large contacts together to close each window, then reinstall relays.

24 Interior

Seat bolsters are not shaped to cup your bum or upper body for spirited cornering. Adding clips on seat risers reduce end float. Ref TSB 910-07a. Seat control modules and switch-pack mountings crack after years of seat flexing, leaving them loose on floor. Replacement lids C2N3565 are available and transfer programming label from old lid to case. Put rubber washers between lid and bracket, use Loctite 222 on studs and only tighten nuts snug. Ref TSB 419-17. Module housing abrasion wears edge traces of internal PCB away but they can be repaired. Switch-pack rear clip breaks, but a .50” wide metal strip can be fashioned and screwed down to retain. Range of seat motion is limited for long legged drivers, going back only as far as rear seat bolster allows. There is just enough room in front footwells for size 12s. With top up, there is little headroom and I am 6’2” with an extra lumbar vertebra. I set seat base fully down front and back and well reclined.

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Sam1174 made TSB 501-58 into a YouTube video to fix headrest drive cables. Use ؽ” semirigid heat shrink tubing with meltable adhesive inner wall (M23053/4-105-0) to rejoin sheath. An alternative is to have longer tach drive internal cables fabricated. Headrest retraction is controlled by micro switch on seat frame. As seatback tilts forward, micro switch triggers headrest retraction and when restored, headrest should return to programmed position. Micro switches on seat frames can be easily knocked out of alignment during interior vacuuming. Micro switch actuator arm must squarely contact frame edge.

If latch pin sleeves have broken and gone missing, press same PA66 tubing used for smooth bore breather pipes over shanks and reinstall using Loctite 242. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE seatback latch fully engages and locks onto your now greater OD shanks, chasing latch out with Dremel sanding drum, as necessary. Driver’s seat lumbar bladder was positioned wrong for my back, so I changed zip tied height of bladder on rubber mounting web.

Door weatherstripping often splits at front of window glass above wing mirrors and at rear near latches. Replacement cost is prohibitive and installation laborious. Instead, trim off split sharp corner at front and smooth it into more rounded shape with Dremel sanding drum. For aft split, thin Permatex 80338 black rubber sealant with Toluene, as necessary. Clean and scrub repair area well using Acetone, Scotchbrite pad or Dremel sanding drum to get release agents off and give surface some key/tooth. Tape backside of split areas together and use an acid brush or airbrush to apply sealant in multiple thin wet coats until cosmetically acceptable.

Window track adjustment screws are hidden behind puddle lamps and speaker grilles. Rear quarter glass adjustments are less accessible. Rear quarter glass leading edge rubber does not always meet parallel with trailing edge of door glass, leading to wind noise. Ref TSB 501-52. Lube window tracks with 3M Silicone paste as needed. Door card upper casing brackets right C2N3836 and left C2N3837 can break due to slammed doors but are easily replaced using Gorilla Glue. Ref TSB 501-57. OE window rattle bumper strips front GJA1718AB and rear GJA1718BA inside doors flatten out with age and are expensive and impossible to find in good condition. Instead buy amazon.com/dp/B07HR3NWY8 extrusion amazon.com/Wire-Harness-Automotive-Cloth-Tape/dp/B08239PWL7 Tesa Fleece Tape and amazon.com/dp/B07GB49JTJ two-sided adhesive tape and make your own. I made 9" pieces for front, 3" pieces for rear and 1" pieces for rear track.

If only one window repeatedly fails to bump back up upon closing, door switch C2N1908 needs replacing. Ref TSB 501-54. Indications of switch corrosion are alarm sounding or puddle lamp of offending door flashing ON and OFF at odd times on a rainy day. OE Burgess V4NCSET11C2B109 switch is no longer available from Jaguar. Instead, buy Burgess V4NCS, cut off BLUE wire, transfer actuator and cover from old switch and mount to bracket using 2-56x.500” screws and locknuts. Wires of new switch are color coded different and come off opposite end vs OE item. Door window regulators are well designed robust scissors type, except for two Nylon guides BMW 51321938884 (Volvo 3509416, Auveco 21423) in each that embrittle with age.

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Door handle gaskets JLM12031GSK left and JLM12032GSK right crack due to UV exposure. MTC 7837 amazon.com/MTC-7837-JLM12032-JLM12035-JLM120332/dp/B01CGNZSIM are softer plastic than OEM, do not fit quite as well, but will not crack. Use double-stick tape to stretch and affix gasket to handle assembly before installation. Replacement is ~45min job each side. Two 7mm hex head bolts retain them. Pawl/arm is a snap fit on lower ball mount. Door check arm/strap bracket can loosen at door jamb creating a snapping sound. Remove bolt and reinstall using Loctite 242. Some owners have seen doors begin to sag as thin door frame Steel deforms.

Cup holder is sized for A cups, not D cups and rebuild kit GNA7692AB is available. Ref TSB 501-06. Console armrest cover foam gets compressed with age, leather starts to ripple and look shoddy. Replace with EVA foam. Sam1174 has this, as well as some other DIY activities, covered in YouTube videos. Folding wing mirror pivot springs sack out with age and road debris gets in pivot causing them to get shaky at high speed. Pressure wash area well to keep detent area as clean as possible.

Alpine entertainment system is only average, CD changer is prone to skipping on rough roads, GPS glitches occasionally and database updates are no longer supported. For Homelink Garage Door Opener (GDO) transmitter programming Ref TSB 419-05. Newer Homelinked GDOs require either Compatibility Bridge to dumb down receiver to 2005 XK8 transmitter protocol or upgrade to Gentex Homelink-5 GDO transmitter module w/bezel. I powered via ‘ignition switched positive’.

Cover King makes nice velour dash mats. Use Gorilla Glue to bond Velcro anchors down in convertibles. Vanity mirror lamps are powered only when visors are stowed in clips. I have seen all manner of rocks and road debris kicked up by tractor trailers and when traveling the Interstate top down, I roll windows up for side protection. Honeycomb trunk floor has a flat position accommodating a full-sized spare and a lower position for space-saver spare.

25 Restraints

Onboard active restraint system monitors cabin occupancy to optimize deployment of airbags in an accident. Dual seat bolster airbags for both driver and passenger are provided, along with MP853A type seatbelt pretensioner clock springs on B pillar to take up slack at impact. Mostly black w/yellow clip connectors used on airbags and clock springs are available from Amazon. Steel blade moves through Hall Effect Sensor installed under driver’s seat during forward and aft seat adjustment. This tells Restraint Control Module if seat is too close to steering wheel to deploy second stage output to airbag, reducing chances of injury. Squib connections have shunting features/clips to render them safe when disconnected by shorting contacts together, so static discharge will not set them off unintentionally. Some connectors even have built-in ferrite beads to block voltage spikes. Gold plated connector contacts ensure low circuit resistance checked during ignition ON prove-out or an SRS fault is logged. Lifespan of undeployed airbags is lifespan of vehicle.

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SRS system does not operate ignition OFF, so if anyone must remain in car when parked roadside, keep ignition and lights ON for safety. At ignition ON prove-out, number of blinks SRS lamp makes before steady ON indicates problem code (Example: one blink, pause followed by three blinks is 13, it then repeats). Ref TSB 501-55. 12 – RCM internal failure 33 – Driver’s Pretensioner (clock spring) fault 13 – Crash data memory full 34 – Passenger’s Pretensioner (clock spring) fault 14 – RCM open circuit 42 – Front Impact sensor circuit fault 15 – RCM version conflicts with OCS 43 – Driver’s Impact sensor circuit fault 16 – OCS sensing fault 44 – Passenger’s Impact sensor circuit fault 17 – OPS sensor fault 49 – Driver’s Seat Track position out of range 18 – Passenger’s Airbag Deactivate circuit fault 51 – Driver’s Belt latch switch circuit fault 19 – Steering Column Airbag circuit fault 52 – Passenger’s Belt latch switch circuit fault 21 – Passenger’s Dash Airbag circuit fault 53 – Airbag audible warning circuit fault 22 – Driver’s Side Airbag circuit fault 54 – RCM configuration failure 23 – Passenger’s Side Airbag circuit fault

26 Climate Control

Heater matrix ‘octopus’ hose MJA6728AC connects coolant system to heater core via Control Valve MNA6711AC and Heater Water Pump MJA6710AA. Check Valves (one in ‘octopus’ hose and one in heater core outlet line) prevent backflow. Norma Push and Seal R20 plastic connector broils in Bank-1 catalyst and EGR pipe heat, degrading internal O-ring. Initially an occasional coolant drip boils away on catalytic converter, leaving no trace. You may smell coolant when you shut down engine, but never find a puddle. Pressure testing cold at 14.5psig [100kPa] for several hours with clean dry shop towel placed under connector can identify this problem. Replace odd French R-16 size internal O-ring (19.8mmIDx3.6mmCS) polymax.co.uk/oring-19-8mm-id-x-3-6mm-cs-fkm-viton-brown-75 if hose and connector are otherwise in good condition. An AS568-211 (.796” IDx.139”CS) Viton seal is probably an acceptable sub.

If you break either Norma connector, ‘octopus’ hose takes several tedious hours to replace. Engine heat makes PA66 brittle with age and separating them while warm reduces likelihood of breakage. Place tub under area. For supply side connector, apply silicone spray to connection, push down on ribbed tab, rock back and forth slightly, while sliding it and sleeve rearward TOWARD hose. Once fully retracted, grip hose, rock it vigorously back and forth, pulling rearward until released from outlet pipe AJ83928. While you have it apart, ensure outlet pipe is clean and smooth using Scotchbrite pad or IT WILL LEAK. Short piece of firesleeve 7569K16 from McMaster-Carr placed over hose before reassembly will provide future protection. Lime green shipping collar on new hose connector is discarded after mating. Return side connector requires twisting connection or prying barbs apart and separating. It is advised to replace Tee fitting NNE3944BA on return valley hose. Heater core outlet hose is flattened in the sharp bend, restricting flow and reducing cabin heat. I replaced with amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJCN3PU and trimmed lower leg to reduce overall sharpness of bend.

Service life of Denso OE Heater Water Pump (~1.5A current draw) brushes is ~3000hr with Climate Control system ON. Eurton Electric 33E brushes work if shortened by .150” [4mm]. Impeller can bind against divider plate and just because motor is running does not necessarily mean magnetically coupled impeller is rotating. YELLOW wire is B+. However, there is no good reason to stick with old OE pump design, as brushless Bosch pump 0392023014 used on newer XKs can be adapted to fit. Make a Stainless-Steel mounting bracket and adapter cable from bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/product, bmotorsports.com/shop/product and 12” of WHT and YEL 20AWG wire. Ensure correct polarity and sleeve it. Nipples on pump are ؾ” instead of Ø⅝”, but so are check valves which hoses accommodate. You will need two ؾ” constant tension clamps. Two nuts and two bolts underneath and two nuts up top hold Instrumounted valve and OE pump bracket to body. Heater core should be backflushed with fresh water at <14.5psig [100kPa]. Heater core outlet is shorter tube. Valve can fail by sticking either open or closed.

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Climate Control System has an internal diagnostic mode. Begin with Key IN, Ignition OFF (Position 0): 1. PRESS and HOLD RECIRC and AUTO buttons as you START engine 2. RELEASE RECIRC and AUTO buttons after engine starts 3. Display flashes, verify all display elements functional 4. PRESS and RELEASE AUTO button to read first fault code 5. If Zero, there are no stored codes. For complete code list, see Shop Manual. 6. PRESS and RELEASE FACE button to scroll through remaining codes 7. PRESS and RELEASE FACE and HEATED REAR WINDOW buttons together to clear each code 8. PRESS and RELEASE RECIRC to perform actuator check 9. PRESS and RELEASE FAN/OFF button to exit diagnostic mode

Most common fault code is 11. On driver’s underscuttle close to console, a small grille hides thermistor and aspirator/blower for climate control system to reference. Take it apart and power up blower to ensure it still works. Clean thermistor with Isopropyl Alcohol and reassemble. To toggle between continuous indication of internal vs external temperature, push and hold EXT button for a few seconds.

A/C is conventional and low-pressure charging port is near firewall. Hold refrigerant can upright (and agitate) to introduce R134a vapor/gas (not liquid) into line or you may damage compressor seals. Newer non-piercing auto shut-off cans require DVA1 adapter. When using a proper refrigerant charging apparatus having high and low gauges, see chart below.

Ambient Temp °F [°C] Low-Pressure Gauge High-Pressure Gauge

65°F [18°C] 30psi [207kPa] 135-155 psi [931-1069kPa] 70°F [21°C] 35psi [241kPa] 145-160 psi [1000-1103kPa] 75°F [24°C] 35psi [241kPa] 150-170 psi [1034-1172kPa] 80°F [27°C] 40psi [276kPa] 175-210 psi [1207-1448kPa] 85°F [29°C] 45psi [310kPa] 225-250 psi [1551-1724kPa] 90°F [32°C] 45psi [310kPa] 250-270 psi [1724-1862kPa] 95°F [35°C] 50psi [345kPa] 275-300 psi [1896-2068kPa] 100°F [38°C] 50psi [345kPa] 315-325 psi [2172-2241kPa] 105°F [41°C] 50psi [345kPa] 330-335 psi [2275-2310kPa] 110°F [43°C] 50psi [345kPa] 340-345 psi [2344-2379kPa]

27 Cleaning and Protection

Keep rubber items (except serpentine belt), well coated with silicone oil spray for longest life. I use CRC 03040 for large area coverage and Easy Rider RT630A for bushings, because it is thicker. If car is your daily freeway driver, apply XPel protective film to protect front end from road FOD. Inexpensive Chromed or Carbon-fiber wing mirror covers are available, since painted ones eventually suffer road rash. Adhere them using permanent flexible adhesive like Shoe-Goo, as peel-and-stick tape with which they are supplied will not hold. I did not like bucky-beaver teeth nor Chrome splitter vane in grille opening, so I removed them. Cable trough along left side of engine bay, plastic rocker panel covers where they undershoot wheel arches and front splash guard tend to fill with debris and should be pressure cleaned regularly.

I use Armorall leather wipes, then Surf City Garage Voodoo Blend Rejuvenator to treat leather. Outboard driver’s seat bolster color coat gets rubbed off by your bum. For leather I use Furniture Clinic Leather Colourant restorative dye followed by Fiebing’s Leather Sheen. Replacement seat skins are available from gahh.com and topsonline.com.

Apply Noxudol 750 anti-corrosion cavity wax behind front wheel arch liners and lower areas prone to road salt or rusting (not on braking surfaces or items which must move freely). Steering linkage U-joint knuckle has tendency to rust badly if not well coated. Other protectants or ceramic, nano-coatings may be needed depending on your local climate. For soft top external cleaning and protection, I apply Raggtopp spray yearly. I use little foam ended makeup/touchup brushes to fill gravel dings. I am still honing my painting technique, but process is outlined below, cleanliness being paramount.

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Materials and Equipment: Primer/Sealer: 1 part Custom Shop KEP405 + 1 part KEP402 Base: 9 parts PPG Envirobase solid color T490 or 4 parts PPG Envirobase metallic color T490 + 1 part T494 Clear: 4 parts Custom Shop KC2010 + 1 part KH2012 Viscosity DIN4 cup (sealer and base 25sec, clear 15sec) Concours Pro 1.3mm LVLP spray gun, 100-125µm Nylon strainers, Windjet, tack cloth and masking film/tape (blue) DA palm sander, Dura-Gold green film P1500 and P2000 hook and loop discs, cut and finish compounds and pads Norton 1000 SandWet sanding sponge and OOPS! eraser as sanding block Coleman lantern fluid (Naphtha)

Preparation: Cool panel 60-70degF Sanding sponge for tooth/key Lantern fluid microfiber cloth wipe Mask for soft edge Prime/Seal coat 10” fan @ 8” @ 15psig Allow 2hr cure Sanding sponge for de-nib/tooth/key Lantern fluid microfiber cloth wipe Windjet and tack cloth Application: Over-reduce to blend metallics to existing Spray edges and repaired patches first, spraying towards repair, extending area of coverage with each coat Base, stir to mix, do not shake, 10” fan @ 8” @ 25psig light first coat, then two flow coats 15min apart Base Mist/Control/Drop/Orientation coat last for micas/pearls/metallics 12” from surface @ 20psig Set 60min Windjet and tack cloth Clear 10” fan @ 8” @ 20psig, light first coat, then 3 flow coats 20min apart Allow >12hr cure

De-Nib, Leveling and Polishing: Protect edges and ridges with blue masking tape De-nib and dress runs using eraser sanding block and P1000 Sanding sponge and DA level texture (or orange peel) to match original Cut and buff Carnauba Wax or Nano Ceramic coating

28 Lighting

Headlamp lenses (left LJA4651BA, right LJA4650BA) are quite sharp when shattered. Install 3M XPel protective film. Position, turn signal and main beam bulbs are changed through clear top port cover, while dipped beam and fog lamp bulbs are accessed through front wheel arch access panels. I found access panel release too stiff, so I removed center reinforcing spine to allow it to deflect more readily. Rotate center lock KTF100003 vertically to release. Front lamp assembly is held by top bolt on core support, hex side nut near grille and T40 screw underneath, reached by steering wheels to limit and removing access panel. To release automatic headlamp washer, pull end tabs forward. Projector lamp beam cutoff plates are available to convert UK XK8 headlamps for EU/US.

To aim low beams vertically, find a level flat surface ending in a vertical wall, drive up to wall and mark lower step of cutoff. Back car up ~25ft from wall. Align lower step of cutoff 1” down from marks. Cutoff should be just below side view mirrors of cars ahead of you. To adjust horizontally, sight along each side of car and mark wall. Measure distance between your low beam bulbs and center within car width marks. Align so cutoff joggle is centered on these points. Aim fog lamp patch centers 3” down from their center.

Bulb color temperatures range from 4000K warm white, 5000K pure white and 6000K daylight white. I prefer pure white, as warm white light looks dull/dingy and daylight white is inferior in rain. Also, highest lumen output is produced near 5000K. Some owners find colored side repeater and marker lamp lenses objectionable, depending on color of their car. Clear lenses are available on eBay and most prefer bulbs diodedynamics.com/194-hp5-led-bulbs that will not show through when OFF for best appearance.

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Lamps shown below in RED are on Fault Notification System and LEDs installed in these locations need 6Ω 50W load resistor in parallel to not be sensed as open, or in the case of turn signals not hyperflash. LED taillights only need 12Ω 25W load resistors. I converted High Beams to 5500K LED Mini HB projectors morimotohid.com/morimoto-mini- hb-high-beam-projector, bulbs shown in GREEN below to LEDs and Low Beams to 5000K headlightexperts.com/h1-single- beam-hid-xenon-kit. diodedynamics.com/194-hp5-led-bulbs work well for all 2825, are available in colors and frosted lens reduces glare. amazon.com/TABEN-Festoon-Chipset work great in Vanity Mirrors, but as they are Ø8mm, Aluminum reflectors in fixtures must be protected from shorting with clear packing tape or driver’s side fuse box F7 (15A) will blow. Glove Box lamp socket/switch polarity needed correcting before amazon.com/gp/product would illuminate.

Rear lamp unit single GROUND path is marginal carrying total load (~10A) of all incandescent bulbs lit for long periods in hot climates. A separate wire connected from unit GROUND circuit to Chassis can help but is unnecessary if you convert to LEDs. Photo below is of early version fixture, but new units are similar. Jaguar provides redundant rear center taillight bulb using smaller filament and can be swapped for faulty position/stop lamp in a pinch. I added diode amazon.com/Volt-Schottky- Diode from stop lamp circuit to fog lamp to function as redundant stop lamp. Wires shown in photo go to externally mounted load resistors through a Molex connector.

Bulb Location/Function Industry Item Number Bulb Type/Description • Dipped (Low) Beam outer (2) H1 55W Halogen, 35 or 55W HID • Front Fog (2) H1 55W Halogen • Front Position (2) 2825 5W Incandescent or 100lm LED T10 wedge • Front/Rear Side Marker (4) 2825 5W Incandescent or 100lm LED T10 wedge • Front/Rear Turn Signal (4) 7507 21W Incandescent or 230lm LED AMB BAU15s • Glove Box (1) 3893 4W Incandescent or 70lm LED BA9s • Interior Footwell (2) 2825 5W Incandescent or 100lm LED T10 wedge • Interior Map (2) 2825 5W Incandescent or 100lm LED T10 wedge • License Plate (2) 2825 5W Incandescent or 100lm LED T10 wedge • Main (High) Beam inner (2) 9005 65W Halogen or 3000lm LED • Puddle (2) 2825 5W Incandescent or 100lm LED T10 wedge • Rear Fog inner (2) 1156 27W Incandescent or 325lm LED BA15s • Reverse inner (2) 1156 27W Incandescent or 325lm LED BA15s • Side Repeater (2) 2825 5W Incandescent or 100lm LED T10 wedge • Tail center (2) 2357 28W/8W Incandescent or 290/80lm LED BAY15d • Tail/Stop outer (2) 2357 28W/8W Incandescent or 290/80lm LED BAY15d • Trunk (2) 6418 5W Incandescent or 220lm LED SV8 festoon • Vanity Mirror (4) 6439 3W Incandescent or 100lm LED PLX festoon

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Neo wedge lamps backlight most instrument/switch panels, with T3 [Ø3mm] consisting of T-1 (Ø.125”) or T-1⅛ (Ø.145”) bulb in Ø8mm base and T4 [Ø4mm] consisting of T-1¼ (Ø.156”) bulb in Ø10mm base. Neo wedge lamps drawing >100mA may melt surrounding plastic. Filaments in old incandescent bulbs become quite frail and if one has failed, replace all lamps in vicinity. Remove colored filters and reuse by working dental pick around base and carefully nudging off. Those lamps shown below in RED below are on dimmer circuit. Some owners convert four large bulbs in Instrument Cluster to LEDs, but I am against individual LEDs backlighting panels not originally designed for them, as hot spots, poor dimming, or irritating flicker can result. Incandescent lamps are highly resistant to voltage spikes, produce warmer light easier on your eyes and should be rated ≥5000hr. Four smaller warning lights are not on dimmer circuit, so LEDs are better here. Make sure polarity is correct. Polarity orientation is same for all four. When removing and reinstalling PCB base bulbs, press in firmly before turning.

Shifter surround, soft top and window control switches are positioned where drinks may get spilled and soaking in Isopropyl Alcohol then blasting with compressed air will clean them up. To access Major Instrument Cluster, remove driver’s side underscuttle, three connectors and four screws. To access console panels, remove shifter surround (4 socket head cap screws), console (4 Torx screws) and radio stack surround (6 screws). All wiring unplugs for easy removal.

PCB Instrument Bulb Location/Function OE Item Number Bulb/Base Type/Description • Center Console Switch Emergency (1) LNA5180BA (no alternate) WHT T4 neo wedge • Center Console Switches (5) LNA5180CA** BLU T4 neo wedge • Climate Control (7) JLM20308* BLU T3 neo wedge • Climate Control center (1) JLM20309* GRN T3 neo wedge • Climate Control LCD (2) JLM11965** BLU T4 neo wedge • Driver’s Seat Memory Panel (1) LJA5180DA** BLU T4 neo wedge • Instrument Cluster (4) 194LL (3.78W) plugs into large twist-lock base • Turn Signal and Warning (4) E73 (1.12W) or 19lm LED*** plugs into small twist-lock base • Window Switch Panels (2) LNA5180CA** BLU T4 neo wedge

*Alternate is JKL JNW1-JW10 (swap out colored filter) **Alternate is JKL DNW1-DW10/12.5MM/BLA ***LED equivalent superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/74-led-bulb-1-smd-led-miniature-wedge- retrofit-car/227/7256/

Soft Top Switch backlight alternate JKL CTB1-CW1345/39-56-5D, soldered with JKL 39-02-5A filter. ASL and Sport Mode Switch backlight (2) alternate JKL 8098SBP, soldered with JKL 39-02-5A filter. ASL and Sport Mode Switch RED ON LED (2) SunLED XLM2MR11W, soldered.

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Colored Filter: For T-1 and T-1⅛ bulb JKL 39-02-5A (BLU), 39-02-4A (GRN) and 39-02-7A (WHT) For T-1¼ bulb JKL 39-04-5A (BLU), 39-04-4A (GRN) and 39-04-7A (WHT)

29 OBD-II and Problem Diagnosis

OBD-II sets P1111 when systems are ‘in the green’ and P1000 if emissions tests have not yet completed after a DTC erase. I have both Innova 3160e and Foxwell NT530 scanners. Smartphone apps like Torque Pro and Carly allow for cordless monitoring of many OBD-II parameters. Record live data at varying speeds when your car is running correctly to baseline normal readings. Do not start replacing things on single occurrence of a given DTC. Instead take a photo of DTC(s) along with odometer reading, view freeze frame data, erase DTC(s) and see if it reoccurs. Especially, watch Long-Term Fuel Trims (LTFT) to see that changing PID values make sense during engine operation.

Anomalous DTCs may set if battery B+ is weak. Develop a good diagnostic sense by correlating DTC(s) with given bank, then to an item failing device(s) might share and finally to a single sensor or component (often damaged wire, bad connection, cracked solder joint or faulty capacitor). Some items can be swapped between banks or cylinders to see if problem follows but try to change only one thing at a time. Simplest answer to a problem is usually correct. Do not break other things trying to fix original problem. Modern cars are designed and built for ease of assembly, not ease of repair. Disassemble as few things as possible and replace simplest/cheapest suspect item first. Keep old parts during prove-out period.

Normal range OBD-II Live Data Key ON Engine Running (KOER): Fuel 1: OL = Open Loop until CL = Closed Loop (after sensors warm up) Fuel 2: OL = Open Loop until CL = Closed Loop (after sensors warm up) ECT: <212°F [100°C] STFT B1 (lost @ key OFF): -9% (leaning) to +9% (enriching) LTFT B1 (retained @ key OFF): -5% (leaned) to +5% (enrichened) STFT B2 (lost @ key OFF): -9% (leaning) to +9% (enriching) LTFT B2 (retained @ key OFF): -5% (leaned) to +5% (enrichened) FP: ~55psi [379kPa] (relative to MAP) MAP: ~10inHg [49kPa] @ idle Advance: <48°BTDC IAT: <130°F [54°C] MAF: <35 lb/min [16kg/min] O2 Sensor B1 S2: cycles from 0.1V (lean) to 0.9V (rich) O2 Sensor B2 S2: cycles from 0.1V (lean) to 0.9V (rich) Lambda B1 S1 Equiv Ratio: 0.9 (rich) to 1.1 (lean) Lambda Current B1 S1: -5mA (rich) to +5mA (lean) Lambda B2 S1 Equiv Ratio: 0.9 (rich) to 1.1 (lean) Lambda Current B2 S1: -5mA (rich) to +5mA (lean)

Flight Data Recorder DTC P1582 is set by one of these issues and requires dealer to erase: • Inertia switch activation event occurred • Restraint deployment event occurred • Throttle failure caused logging of limp home mode • Engine started and stumbled, logging fault

30 Condition Inspection

1. Overall Condition. Examine seat leather, cup holder/center armrest and pedals. Ensure door and body panel colors match, no dents/scratches, or unpleasant odors. Examine plastic and rubber for cracking. Look for parts/labor invoices or seller mechanical knowledge and ability.

2. Cooling System. Pressure test cold at 14.5psig [100kPa]. Inspect condition of fans, radiator fins and hoses. Engine should come up to temperature in ~5min with needle in center of gauge range and stay there. Fans should cycle from OFF when cold, to Series (Slow) when warm and to Parallel (Fast) when hot or A/C turned ON.

3. Engine Condition, Fluid Leaks and Noises. Look for neglect, incomplete maintenance, coolant-free oil and oil-free coolant. Engine should crank and start readily. Observe exhaust during initial startup until warm. Disconnect each coil to observe rpm drop. Perform compression check ~200psig [1380kPa]. Check MAP with OBD-II scanner at idle. Listen for unusual tappet or primary chain noises. Check oil level and condition. Borescope cylinders. 33

4. Engine Bay. Are all parts OE or better? Inspect firewall compartments for water. Ensure covers are intact with two tabs and retainer. Check brake and power steering fluid condition. Check engine mount condition with quick stab of throttle and look underneath for purple fluid leaks.

5. Drivetrain and Suspension. Look for Guibo condition and leaking seals. Read transmission adaption values if able. Bounce on each wing to observe damper compression and rebound authority. Examine shock mounts.

6. Steering, Brakes, Wheels and Tires. Look for centering tendency, no slop and braking authority. Look for caliper leaks. If you can get each wheel up in turn, check ball joints, bearings and observe smooth rotation. Visually evaluate tire type and tread, check for curb rash, correct pressures and condition. Look for bent wheels and separating chrome plating.

7. Electrical and Lighting. Ensure all systems operate to spec day and night. Verify B+ ~+14.3VDC at idle and ~+12.8VDC engine OFF. Key ON ensure all Instrument Cluster indicator lamps are ON and all go out shortly after engine start. Check to see dimmer control affects dash and door switch lamps. Ensure battery terminals are free of corrosion.

8. Entertainment Center and Instruments. Ensure all items operate to spec and radio antenna extends, retracts and stops. Operate all panel buttons and steering stalk functions both sides.

9. Soft Top. Cycle top and observe action. Pump should not sound labored and top should close/open smoothly in <20sec. Check for proper window sequencing. Check external fabric, headliner condition and ensure soft top cover is available.

10. Interior and Seats. Inspect leather condition, seat and steering column movement/position memory, lumbar inflation function and ensure headrests drop as seats are drawn forward and restore upon return. Ensure floor mats have plastic retention hooks. Verify glove box lid closes properly and locks.

11. Body, Paint and Corrosion. Operate doors, trunk lid, hood, fuel filler and locks both manual and via key fob. Look for nicks and overall finish condition. Inspect rocker panel welded joints. Check for filler on all panels using magnet.

12. Glazing. All Jaguar windscreens will have some pitting, but ensure glazing is otherwise in good condition with minimum chips and no cracks. Check for window drop as each door is opened and rise as it is closed. Ensure windows roll up, down and rear window heater is functional.

13. Missing Items. Ensure alternator cooling scoop is in place under car and passenger’s side wiper arm pivot cap is not missing. Ensure there are two black keys, one green valet key, tool kit and compact spare in good condition.

14. Smog Reports. Review for trends. Check miles per gallon on dash display and see if it makes sense. Ensure there are no alert lamps illuminated and no squawks on message panel. Check exhaust tips for excessive carbon buildup.

15. OBD-II Scan. Capture live scanner data. It may take multiple drive cycles for OBD-II system to set certain DTCs. Look particularly at coolant temperature, long term fuel trims, O2 sensor readings and readings indicating catalyst condition.

16. Test Drive. Engine should idle smoothly and take throttle readily with no stumble or surging. At low speed, suspension should be firm and at freeway speeds (and up) car should be well controlled. It should corner as if on rails. Shift to J-gate, there should be smooth shifting and exhaust note should remain a low burble with no popping even under aggressive downshifting conditions. Engage and disengage cruise control, ASL and sport mode functions. Note all gauge readings and recheck miles per gallon on dash computer display.

31 Crank, but No Start Checklist

It is assumed all wiring and hoses are intact and functional. Starter will not engage if security immobilizer has tripped due to tampering (blinking panel security lamp). Reset with remote fob or at driver’s door using key. Starter will not engage if shifter not in PARK or NEUTRAL. Starter will not engage if battery is defective or incorrectly connected. Ensure RED cable on Battery Positive (B+) post and BLACK cable or braided strap from Chassis (GND) on Battery Negative (-) post are tight and corrosion free. Check for ~12.5VDC at engine compartment B+ using voltmeter. Recharge or replace weak battery.

1. Fuses. Check Engine Control Module (ECM) and Fuel Pump related fuse(s). Replace with fuse of same rating.

2. Inertia Switch. Verify inertia switch is not tripped, inhibiting power to fuel pump due to impact. Operator’s Manual describes how to reset. Switch can become intermittent if contacts become corroded or damaged.

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3. Crank Position (CKP) and Cam Position Sensor(s) (CPS). Crank starter briefly to see tach needle registers rpm or MIL goes out. If neither occurs, one of these sensors may be defective. Loss of either sensor will disable fuel and ignition.

4. Fuel Supply. Verify correct octane fresh fuel in tank. Fuel gauge readings cannot always be trusted for accuracy. Locate Schrader Valve on injector rail, remove cap, place shop towel under valve and depressurize fuel rail. Turn Ignition key ON briefly while listening for fuel pump to reprime injector rail. If no sound, fuel pump, control module or fuse may be faulty. If sound WAS heard, attach gauge to test port and read fuel pressure >40psig [275kPa]. If pump ran, but did not pressurize fuel rail, pump may be faulty, fuel filter may be plugged, or Fuel Pressure Sensor (FPS) is faulty. To confirm fuel problem, crank engine while directing propane into intake.

5. ECM. Turn Ignition ON briefly to see MIL illuminate, confirming power to ECM. Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor could erroneously indicate over-temperature where none truly exists, but this seldom prevents engine start. If ECM does not power up, it may be defective.

6. Ignition/Spark. Test for spark on all cylinders during cranking. Use spark gap tester or similar, to avoid electric shock. If all fail, problem is something upstream they have in common, like ECM.

7. OBD-II Scan. Connect scan tool to Data Link Connector (DLC) near driver’s knee bolster and turn Ignition ON. If scan tool cannot link, either B+ to DLC is not present or ECM is defective. Check DLC fuse(s). B+ should be present on Pins 9 and 16 Ignition ON. Scan for DTCs and take appropriate action(s).

Notes: • Cranking starter with accelerator pedal held to floor clears flooded engine by cutting OFF fuel injection. • Pull connector to EGR valve and tap lightly to ensure it is closed at idle. Internal damage or corrosion can affect valve opening/closing, but this can only be assessed by removal. • Non-functional injection results from clogged/faulty injector or not receiving firing pulses from ECM. • Leaking intakes, faulty injectors and/or faulty MAF/MAP sensors can cause difficult starts, but rarely no starts.

32 Fluids, Connectors, Replacement Parts and Service Intervals

Brake Fluid Motul RBF600 100948 Coolant/Distilled Water 50/50 Dex-Cool AF888 Differential Fluid Redline 75W-90 57904 Engine Oil Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 550046126 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 550045201 or Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5W-30 550045195 or Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 550040834 Power Steering Pentosin CHF11S 1405116 Soft Top Fluid Pentosin CHF11S 1405116 Transmission Fluid ZF Lifeguard6 S671090255 or Redline D6 30704

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Cam Position Sensor 2SKT black plug (2) SMP S1263 Coolant / Fuel Temp Sensor 2SKT gray plug (2) SMP S2034 Crankshaft Position Sensor 2SKT black plug SMP S824 Fuel Injector 2SKT black plug (8) SMP HP3945 Fuel Pressure Sensor 3SKT black plug SMP S821 MAF Sensor 5SKT black plug Yazaki 7283-1057-30 MAP Sensor 4SKT black plug Ford WPT-1339 Oil Pressure Sensor 1SKT plug SMP S940 VVT Solenoid 2SKT black plug (2) SMP S1415

ABS Harness Front Left and Right LJG3410FC and LJG3410AC Battery Duralast H8-DLG Brake Pedal Position Switch SMP SLS-503 Cam Sensor Bank-1 and Bank-2 NTK 73687 and NTK 73629 Coil (8) NGK 48927 (U5082) Coolant Outlet Pipe AJ89486 Coolant Pump AJ88912X EGR Valve SMP EGV1110 EGR Valve Coolant Hose AJ88513 Expansion Tank w/Cap MJA4440BA MJD4400AB Front Shock Shaft Bumper (2) MJA2150BA Front Wheel Bearing (2) Timken 510010 Fuel Filter Mahle KL83 Fuel Pump Airtex E8648M Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor AJ87977 Fuel Rail Temperature Sensor LRA1600BA Guibo CBC8996 Half-Shaft U-joint (4) JLM1388 Heater Water Pump Bosch 0392023014 (modified to mount) Heater Control Valve MNA6711AC Knock Sensor (2) NTK 73014 MAF Sensor SMP MAS0188 MAP Sensor SMP AS388 Octopus Hose MJA6728AC Oil Filter Mahle OC602 Oxygen Sensor Upstream and Downstream (2) Denso 234-9029 and (2) Denso 234-4798 Radiator Coolant Hose Lower and Upper C2N1173 and C2N1174 Reach Motor Drive Cable JLM12187C or CRES rod Rear Inner Bearing w/Race (2) Timken Set45 Rear Outer Bearing and Race (2) Timken LM503349A and (2) Timken LM503310 Relay (15) LJA6703AA Serpentine Belt 6PK2320 ±10mm Spark Plug / Gap / Torque (8) NGK IFR5N-10 Laser Iridium / .040” / 20 lb-ft Tensioner and Idler Pulley Bearing (2) Timken 6203-2RS Thermostat and Cover AJ82697 and AJ89484 Throttle Body Coolant Hose AJ88519 Throttle Body to EGR Valve Hose AJ88092 Transmission Filter Pan ZF 0501216243 Upper Front Shock Mount (2) Welsh MJA2170BD Valley Hose Left and Right NNE3946CA and AJ86326 36

Service Every Or Change Oil and Filter 5Kmi [8000km] 6mo-1yr Drain Catch Can 5Kmi Add Berryman’s B-12 to Full Fuel Tank 5Kmi Inspect Wiper Blades (21”) and fill Washer Fluid 5Kmi Inspect Tire Tread and Pressure (30-32psig Cold) 5Kmi Inspect Engine Cooling Fans (Off/Slow/Fast) 5Kmi Inspect Brake Pads, Rotors and Hand Brake 5Kmi Inspect Rubber Boots for Damage 5Kmi Inspect Mirrors and Central Locking System 5Kmi Inspect Seats, Headrests and Restraints 5Kmi Inspect Horn, Headlamps, Fog Lamps and Hazard Flasher 5Kmi Inspect Lamps and Interior Controls 5Kmi Inspect Air Conditioning, Heating and Rear Defogger 5Kmi Replace Brake and Power Steering Fluids 20Kmi [30000km] 2-4yr Lubricate Hinges and Door Locks 20Kmi Silicone Spray Rubber and Noxudol 750 Rust Prone Areas 20Kmi Grease Rear Half-Shaft U-Joints 20Kmi Clean or Replace Air Filter 20Kmi Replace Transmission Fluid and Filter Pan 60Kmi [100000km] 6-8yr Replace Coolant 60Kmi Replace Expansion Tank and Cap 60Kmi Replace Thermostat and Outlet Pipe Assy 60Kmi Replace Spark Plugs 60Kmi Replace Fuel Filter 60Kmi Replace Battery 60Kmi Replace Coolant Pump 100Kmi [160000km] 10-12yr Replace Serpentine Belt 100Kmi Replace Radiator Coolant Hoses 100Kmi Replace Oil Cooler Hoses 100Kmi Replace Front Coil-over Mounts 100Kmi Replace Wishbone Bushings 100Kmi Replace Front Wheel Speed Sensor Cables 100Kmi Replace Intake Elbow Booster Pipe O-ring and Ferrule 100Kmi Clean Mass Air Flow Sensor 100Kmi Clean Fuel Injectors 100Kmi Replace Brake Pedal Position Switch 100Kmi Replace Octopus Hose 100Kmi Service Heater Pump 100Kmi Replace Ignition Coils 100Kmi Replace Starter Relay 100Kmi Replace Anti-Roll Bar Bushings 140Kmi [225000km] 14-16yr Replace Oxygen Sensors 140Kmi Replace Crankcase Breather Pipes 140Kmi Replace Soft Top Hydraulic Hoses 140Kmi Replace Front Shocks 140Kmi Replace Valley Hoses 140Kmi Replace Differential Fluid 140Kmi Replace Cam Position Sensors 180Kmi [300000km] 18-20yr Replace Guibo 180Kmi Replace Radiator 180Kmi Replace Ball Joints 180Kmi Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings 180Kmi Replace Power Steering Hoses 180Kmi Replace Rod Boots 180Kmi Replace Rear Shocks 180Kmi

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