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Left: castle of Sarre Bottom: castle Both in Valley

at a permanent exhibition of the ‘jewels of the mountains’ — exquisite pieces ferreted by passionate mountaineers — before we divest ourselves of coats, gloves, cameras and caps at the enormous Pavillion di Mont Frety restaurant on a lower floor. chef Luigi Ballisai has laid out a formidable spread. Upma and yellow dal nudge bruschettas and lasagne. Pizzas jostle for space with the humble raita and dessert has us torn between apple pie, cheesecake and good old sevian kheer. Then comes the big surprise. To make up for the ‘loss of panoramic view’ on top of the mountain we are bundled into helicopters that propel us into the mountains! The exhilarating eight-minute ride takes us as close as is permissible, to the jagged range that wears a cloak of white even as mini snowstorms swirl deep in its recesses. , for that is where we are, is a romantic, medieval village tucked into the valley of aosta, the smallest region of . Developed around two historic churches, the serene village, known best for its near-perfect ski pistes, houses a potpourri of bars, eateries (Pizzeria du Tunnel gets a high five), owner-driven shops and gourmet stores on a cobblestone car-free main street. It is on this street that some of us, along with a population that startles with its sheer numbers, sit on vacant steps with beer cans in hand, to cheer the winning trio of the ‘Tour of the Giants’, the toughest trail in the world and the first mountain trail involving an entire region. Paramedics wait on the fringes and children wave flags from atop their daddies’ shoulders. aosta, principal city of the valley and 37 km away, is where we are headed to in the morning with an intriguing stopover that takes us into the 11th century, perhaps even earlier. The village of Bard, born along the ‘roman road’, is the starting point to the fortress on the hill that has seen much bloodshed Castles in the air and ruin before the Savoy rulers rebuilt and restored the multilevel archaeological marvel in the 1830s. Today, we make Take the long road to Northern Italy. Stop for a supremely languid weekend at Como’s the ascent via glass lifts and funiculars, much like hollywood CastaDiva luxury resort, play queen of the castle in ’s lost kingdom and wake diva Scarlett Johansson and the crew did when filming the exuberant Avengers: Age of Ultron. The former military up to a pink dawn in Courmayeur. Mala Vaishnav looks a mountain in the eye fortification has been transformed into a hip retro venue for weddings, conferences, launches and flamboyant art installations. You can even stay in an 11-room hotel propped amid the same time-worn rocks that so enraged Napoleon and his conquering army that they razed the structure to the he hosts are wringing their hands. “This snow,” of mist conceals the alpine view. Some members of the ground. The valley is, in fact, peppered with more than 50 they sigh, almost blaming themselves for nature’s group are delighted though, especially those who have never castles, all embellished with historic lineage and past fanfare. untimely intrusion into what was, a few minutes been in the midst of ‘Snowdonialand’. Much to the relief of Our Italian, hindi-speaking guide Giulia Maschio’s childhood ago, a clear wintry morning. We had been our hosts who go into a worried huddle anyway and prod us home stood right in front of one. “Yes, just like a fairy tale,” she prepped for a ride into the skies which would towards the caffeine counters. nods, “although I wasn’t the princess!” Ttake us within air-kissing distance of the big four — Monte We are geographically in Italy but sipping our foaming aosta town, founded in 25 Bc, comfortably nudges rosa, Matterhorn, and the creamy scoop of hazelnut-infused lattes in France! The cafe we find ourselves roman remnants. Its squares, shops and gelaterias have Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe at 4,810 metres. But in is perched between the two countries in a way that half sprung forth, wrapping themselves around, through and when the rotating spherical cable cars of the freshly minted of it falls on that side and the other half is on this side. and under ancient gates, bridges, fountains and courtyards. The Skyway Monte Bianco deposit us at 11,000 feet, we are we have crossed the boundary line simply because all the famed augustus arch stands tall at one end of the main ambushed by snowflakes and errant snowballs, and a mantle tables are taken at the Italian end. We go crystal-gazing next street. Post an indolent repast of spiced meat skewers, dried

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Scapes Itali-castles in the air March -154.indd 126-127 2/27/16 3:48 PM THE LUSHNESS OF BEING An opulent past meets the luxurious present at Lake Como’s CastaDiva Resort and Spa

iudi a Pasta’s ghost, I think, still inhabits her palatial toned living room fl anked by an open-plan home that lay in disrepair and ruin for more than six kitchene e and a balcony that seduces Gdecades a† er her death, before it was transformed you with the view beyond. The mirrored into a luxurious lakeside retreat. The fl amboyant soprano closet, bedroom and bathroom are large and willing muse of the famed 19th-century composer enough to waltz in — all displaying the Vincenzo Bellini holds the viewer’s gaze from portraits passion of home-grown Italian designers on the wall, sugar packets at the breakfast table, menu residing in the neighbourhood. Two of the covers of the fi ne dining restaurant Orangerie and artistic nine villas perched on diff erent levels — renderings from various other nooks and corners of the accessed by uncomplaining legs or golf 18th-century-built Villa Roccabruna, now housing the carts — are private sanctuaries, sought reception area and wellness centre. The fi ve-year-old a† er by guests seeking a quiet intimate CastaDiva Resort and Spa borrows its name from a Bellini se ing. Here too, Pasta’s almond-shaped composition’s most famous aria, Casta Diva, and much of eyes smile benignly from peach, grey or the restoration is inspired by Milan’s La Scala opera house. walnut-hued interiors. It is one of the grandest properties at the northern end A stroll across pebbled paths and stately pine trees or of Lake Como — one of the deepest lakes in Europe — near through a glass-encased walkway for those who shun the the li le village of Blevio, with other celebrity-stroked wind leads us to the villa housing Orangerie where we feast mansions for company. The Versace family’s neoclassical on smoked eggplant, mushroom riso o, spiked with puff ed residence rises out of the foliage while George Clooney’s barley and vernengo cheese, and a slow-cooked lamb with villa hides behind a discreet clump of green. White boats parsnip and fi gs. The sesame-infused olive bread makes for populated with tanned bodies swish their way across a robust game of ‘pass the basket’. Como is a huge fan of the glistening water every few hours. And it is this mushrooms and every exotic and common variety fi nds its panoramic view that we enjoy from our richly textured way into the restaurant’s Mediterranean menu that favours penthouse suites. seasonal and locally sourced products, whether fi sh, fowl : mystical splendour in the aosta Valley Villa Dorabella, where I have checked in, is named a† er or vegetables. an Italian opera character. I take in the enormous olive- There are two ways to enter and exit the property. Naturally, the way through the water is the more exciting FAR AND AWAY fruit pulao and ginger-cinnamon cake at the very stylish option. You go down a set of spooky stairs under the Brasserie café d’Europe, just off Piazza chanoux, we indulge property and reach a surreal cave from where you get into REACH courmayeur by road from aosta (37 km), como in the hot buy of the day: the grolla or friendship cup typical a gently rocking boat. In a ma er of minutes, you are (248 km), Milan (217 km) or (146 km).STAY at au of the region. The round wooden container, often finely gliding smoothly across Lake Como! ẵ coeur des Neiges, the chalet-style resort nestled in the carved and handmade, has a varying number of spouts from bosom of Mont Blanc and savour a mascarpone mousse which ‘friends’ drink traditional spiced Valdostana coffee. We with wild berries in the warm-toned interiors. Giorgio think it may work well with wine too! armani’s team recently shot their ad campaign here.DINE When we reach cogne it is raining. So there dies the at the charming auberge de la Maison and choose from an hope of spotting the rare ibex, 4,000 of whom roam freely eclectic offering of homemade tagliolini, paprika-scented in Italy’s first national park, the Gran Paradiso National prawns, saffron-infused risotto and stone-ground polenta. Park, that shares a boundary with France’s Vanoise National The whipped cream in a bowl looks like a mini version of Park. The two together make up the largest protected Mont Blanc! TASTE the fruits of your efforts at Pilier aD’ ngle sanctuary in Western Europe. It is a unique area bursting where you can barbecue slivers of meat and fish just so, with woods, mountains, valleys, glaciers and chestnut at the table while munching on a smooth-as-silk avocado groves. We make the short trek — and no one slips — up salad. BUY wooden friendship cups, dried to the Lillaz Waterfalls where the water, clear as crystal, porcini mushrooms, snow globes, white wine cascades down with attention-getting sound. Never mind from cave du Vin Blanc de et de La the annoying drops of rain, the cell phones are whipped Salle. REVEL in the joys of snowboarding, out of warm pockets and a series of selfies taken against snowshoeing, ice climbing, snowbiking and the thundering wonder. Post the brief trek in the wet, we whooshing into chamonix, France a hop, ski gratefully warm our toes at the cheery Sant’Orso on the and jump away! fringes of the Park, dig into authentic cogne custard and decide to leave the ibex sighting for another day…. V

128 March 2016 | VERVE vervemagazine.in VERVEMAGAZINEIN VERVE |MARCH129

Scapes Itali-castles in the air March -154.indd 128 2/27/16 3:50 PM Scapes Itali-castles in the air March -154.indd 129 2/27/16 4:15 PM