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A Walking Tour of Asheville's Downtown Architecture and Landscape History

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A Walking Tour of Asheville's Downtown Architecture and Landscape History A walking tour of Asheville’s downtown architecture and landscape history US Regional Association of the International Association for Landscape Ecology 2016 Annual Meeting, Asheville, NC Field Trip Guide April 5, 2016 Steve Norman US Forest Service [email protected] Asheville’s remarkable architecture reflects its long history as a regional economic center and as a health and tourist destination. This self-guided walk will introduce you to the history of Asheville’s built environment as revealed by landmarks from the city’s Golden Age, from just before the turn of the last century through the 1930s, and its resurgence as a destination of import in recent years. The loop that you will follow loosely tracks a route created for tourists by the City of Asheville. While this tour builds on that and earlier efforts, this takes a broader view of Asheville’s position in the landscape to ask questions such as why did this place turn out the way it did, why here, and where is this place headed? For navigation, use the map on the back page of this guide. 1. Thomas Wolfe House North Carolina’s most famous writer, Thomas Wolfe (1900-1938) grew up here as Asheville was also coming of age. Author of Look Homeward, Angel, a novel inspired by his life here, and You Can’t Go Home Again, Wolfe has a prominent role in the 2016 movie Genius (played by Jude Law). This National Historic Landmark was built in 1883 in the Queen Anne style, and became his mother’s boarding house in 1906. The structure was restored after a 1998 arson fire. 2. North Market Street This stretch of Market is the last street downtown that retains its historic brick surface. Paving began at the turn of the 20th century downtown, and, as many of these bricks were made by the Southern Clay Mfg. Co. of Robbins, TN, they date from after 1902 and used Pennsylvanian-aged shale from the Cumberland Plateau as raw material. Pavers slow runoff and traffic while providing an extraordinary character to this neighborhood. Architect Douglas Ellington’s 1928 Art 3. Buncombe Co. Courthouse Deco City Hall building (right) was styled 4. Asheville City Hall after the mountains behind it. Using Georgia marble at the base and a red terra cotta tiled octagonal roof, he used Indian feather motifs above the windows. (Look for reproductions of these feathers on the sidewalk along this trail). Arriving in 1926, Ellington began his legacy with the First Baptist church on Woodfin. Prior to that he attended the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris, a leading design school where his talent was nourished by world-class inspiration. In 1926, Ellington was to have also built the adjacent Buncombe County Courthouse of matching style with a connecting arcade, but County officials found his creative designs distasteful. In 1927, they selected a firm with a reputation for more conser- vative courthouse designs, DC’s Milburn, Heister and Company. In 1928, the year of the County uilding’s completion (above, left), this 17-story Neo-Classical structure was the largest courthouse in the state. The County building was built in three tiers, using a steel frame and brick and lime- stone. Inside lies a marble staircase, mosaic tile floors and other embellishes. The extensive and irregular greenspace between these two structures and other city buildings uphill to the west reflects land use history. The prior city courthouse was a block farther uphill on Pack Square. This 1907 building is not of particularly rich 5. Hayes Hopson Building design architecturally, but it has a diverse (Pack’s Tavern) history of practical use. Over the last century, it has been used as a lumber supplier, an automotive supply company and restaurants. Legend has it that an underground passage in the basement was used to convey confiscated alcohol here (from the adjacent police department) prior to 1933, when Prohibition was repealed. 6. Jackson Building 7. Westall Building This impressive Neo-Gothic tower (left) was built in 1924 by 28-year-old developer Lynwood Jackson as an office building. At 13 stories (114 ft.), it was the first sky- scraper built in the city. Seventeen suicides are known to have occurred here after the Stock Market crashed in 1929. The tower sits on a small plot of land that had earlier been the site of Thomas Wolfe’s father’s monument shop. Typically used for religious structures, the Gothic style was finding its way into commercial buildings at this time. Note the four overhanging grotesques (not gargoyles) near the top. William Harrison Westall built this 8-story structure (right) in tandem with Jackson’s tower in 1924. He was an uncle of Thomas Wolfe and gained his wealth in business and lumber. This and the Jackson Building share an elevator and were managed together. The Westall Building’s magnify- cent orange brick face has accents of green and blue terra cotta and complex ornamen- tation inspired by English Norman and Spanish Romanesque styles. 8 . Municipal Building The 1925 Municipal Building was originally used for the city’s police, fire and health departments and jail. On its west side down Market, the cornucopias over the door reveal that the basement was used as the city market. Brickwork was overseen by James Vester Miller, whose mother was a slave. The Eagle Street area is a historic African American neighborhood. In 1893, George Vanderbilt constructed 9. Young Men’s Institute this building in the heart of the African American commercial district to provide a YMCA-style space for black boys and men who had worked on his mansion. Designed by local architect Richard Sharp Smith in an English Tudor Cottage style, pebble-dashed walls and red brick trim, the building be- came a center for black social life. It is now a cultural center and provides commercial space on the first floor. Development across the street will provide affordable housing and a new hotel is planned nearby. Pack square is the center of downtown 10. Old Pack Square today and it has been for the history of the city. See the cover of this booklet for a glimpse of the square from early in the 20th century. The railroad reached Asheville in 1880 from Salisbury in the east and 1886 from Spartanburg to the south. This was soon followed in 1889 by a system of electric street cars that brought tourists and the infirm up Biltmore Ave. from the train depot by the French Broad. A hydro- powered line was built to the Sulphur Springs resort west of town, and by 1915 the network had 43 cars and 18 miles of track. Running north and south through town, 11. From trail to turnpike and Biltmore (Broadway) Ave. was long the the Vance Monument primary corridor for traffic of all kind. Built on an old Indian trail, the 1827 Buncombe Turnpike let TN and NC farmers efficiently drive hundreds of thousands of pigs and turkeys to market each year in SC. The drovers found accommodations nearby, fencing their livestock near STOP 15. The 1896 obelisk recognizes NC’s Civil War governor and US Senator Zebulon Vance (1830-1894). Vance grew up near here and owned slaves, and coincidentally, this site was likely where slaves were sold prior to the War. The square takes its name from local philanthropic Michigan lumber mag- nate (and anti-slavery crusader) George Willis Pack (1831-1906) who came here to restore his wife’s respiratory health in 1884. 12. Biltmore Building Prior to 1979, 1880s-era commercial buildings lined the north side of Pack Square. These were razed to build a headquarters for the American Enka Company which had its pri- mary factory nearby. Asheville’s downtown was in economic decline at the time, and this project, completed in 1981, symbolized a re- surgence. Within a year, economic hardship forced Enka to downsize, leading to the sale of the building to the Biltmore Company to be Pei’s sharp geometric designs are used as their corporate headquarters. reminiscent of his other works, in- Designed by internationally recognized cluding the Louvre Pyramid in Paris, Chinese-American architect, I.M. Pei, the the Rock and Roll Hall of fame in structure’s floor-to-ceiling glass windows Cleveland, and the East building of provide a striking reflection of the adjacent the National Gallery of Art in DC. buildings of Pack Square. The American Enka Company was founded just west of Asheville in 1928 by a Dutch firm and became the largest rayon manufacturer in the US. During WWII, the factory expanded and made yarn for parachutes. Production re- quired coal and abundant water, which this southern Appalachian landscape had in abun- dance. The company was on the original The site of the Enka plant in West Fortune 500 list, and it moved its headquar- Asheville is now a brownfield with a ters from Madison Ave., NY to west Asheville 41-acre landfill that contains coal in the mid-1950s prior to constructing its $5 ash. Plans are to develop it as a million, short-lived headquarters (above) in recreational greenspace. 1981. Production in Asheville ended in 2008. 13. A hotel resurgence Rising high above Pack Square is the mono- lithic 1965 BB&T Bank Building. Long used for commercial office space, this 18-story tower may be the tallest building in western NC. It will soon be converted to the upscale boutique 140-room “Vandre Nouveau Hotel” with 39 condominiums. The McKibbon Hotel Group purchased this property in 2013 for $7.5 million. Meanwhile, construction continues nearby for their AC Marriott Hotel (behind the Biltmore Building) on a site that has supported a series of hotels since the mid- 1800s.
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