Italian whites - surprisingly good at ageing

Written by Jancis Robinson & Julia Harding MW - 3 Aug 2016

We all know that white made from the blessed grape can age superbly and that, pace premature oxidation, the finest white burgundies and white bordeaux, not to mention white Hermitage, can age superbly. But what about Italian whites? The general inclination is to drink them fairly young but Julia and I recently and coincidentally participated in vertical tastings of three different Italian whites that showed just how well they aged.

In the case of Allegrini’s Bolgheri adventure, Poggio al Tesoro, we could go back only as far as 2007 because that was the first . [...]

Read on.

POGGIO AL TESORO VERTICAL Allegrini expanded out of their home territory in Valpolicella in 2001 because at that time expansion was so difficult at home (the EU has made it a little easier now) and also so as to provide something for future generations. According to the glamorous Marilisa Allegrini, ‘we immediately saw something special in Bolgheri’. They initially bought 11 unplanted hectares (27 acres) and then extended it to a total of 70 ha, including seven planted hectares that had been leased to Ornellaia next door. Soils are a mixture of red sand, clay, limestone and rocks. Initially they planted only red grapes, Bordeaux varieties because they reckoned the bunches of were too big to make interesting wine – although see their solution for this problem in grapes.

Marilisa discussed the possibility of white wine production there when the staff of London’s River Café were on a visit. Both Ossie Gray of the River Café and David Gleave MW of UK importers Liberty Wines suggested Vermentino. Marilisa discussed this with their agronomist Stefano Bartolomeo, who was convinced that if she wanted a Vermentino that would last, they would have to get good Corsican clones (that he had presumably encountered on holiday on the island) because they keep their acidity better than Italian ones. [...]

From the 2007 vintage they were delighted to find Riesling-like aromas in aged Vermentino. They decided to call it ‘Solosole’, Solo because it’s so unusual to have a 100% Vermentino here (‘Antinori’s is a very different style’) and sole for sun. They tried ageing it in but saw no improvement so it is always aged only in stainless steel, being left on the for six months – which suggests that the evident qualities in this wine derive from the , numbered 3 on the map below, just north of the famous arrow-straight Viale degli Cipressi that leads up from the Via Aurelia along the coast to the little village of Bolgheri. (Their , numbered 1 and 2 on the map below, are a little higher up and further south.)

What’s amazing to me is how well these simply vinified wines last and develop. One factor presumably is that they don’t go through malolactic conversion, but no acid is ever added and yet there is such a transformation over time. [...] • Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole Vermentino 2015 Bolgheri 100% Vermentino from Le Sondraie vineyard, 7 ha, 25 m above sea level. West facing, deep sandy soils with gravel and clay. [...] Pale greenish straw. Very ‘cool’, racy, leesy nose. Still extremely young. Great presence in the mouth but such a baby aromatically. Some honey character and very well made – so much more of a dead cert than many a white burgundy. Unfortunately, this is the only vintage currently available commercially but it really should be kept. 14% Drink 2017-2025 £18 RRP 16.5+

• Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole Vermentino 2014 Bolgheri [...] Pale greenish straw. Quite a honeyed nose. Quite intense nose. Still quite tight on the palate. Really marked acidity and chewiness still. Some real richness and something a little citrus, something stony. Admirably long. 14% Drink 2017-2027 16.5+

• Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole Vermentino 2010 Bolgheri [...] Deep straw. Hint of TDN on the nose with some sweetness. It strongly reminds me of a mature Australian Riesling! Tastes as though there is some residual sugar but it’s only 2 g/l, apparently. Delicious! Long with real grip on the palate. Interesting bitter note on the end.14% Drink 2013- 2018 17

• Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole Vermentino 2008 Bolgheri [...] Deep straw. Definite age on the nose, off dry. Lots of chewy chalkiness on the finish. Maybe a slight shortage of fruit and charm?13.5% Drink 2010-2017 16.5

• Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole Vermentino 2007 IGT Toscana [...] Greenish mid straw. Vegy nose and so like fully mature Clare Valley Riesling! Rich and round with massive concentration. So racy! Lots to chew on. Really quite serious. Racy. Lots of stuff buried down there. Wonderful depth, nuance, balance and potential. 14% Drink 2010-2019 17.5

POGGIO AL TESORO OTHER WINES • Poggio al Tesoro, La Sondraia Superiore 2012 Bolgheri [...] Extremely dark crimson. Some slightly green notes (from the ?). Fresh and racy. Very competent.14% Drink 2016-2025 16.5