A walk to Mt Gurrangorambla Alpine Walking Track NPA BULLETIN Volume 33 number 1 March 1996

CONTENTS

A walk to Mt Gurrangorambla 4 Mongolia - pristine but for how- Fiona MacDonald Brand much longer? 20 Sonja Lenz and Kevin McCue Walking in the MacDonnell Ranges 6 A gentle walk in the Pyrenees 22 Annette Smith Alan Ray A journey through environmentalism 10 Professor David Shearman Cover photo The Alpine Walking Track from the The little-known feature of a commercial camellia and azalea garden at Nil Desperandum in the Tidbinbilla Orroral Valley to Murray's Gap 17 Valley was admired by members on the weekday outing Stephen Johnston to the homestead in October. Photo by Reg Alder.

National Parks Association (ACT) Subscription rates (1 July to 30 June) Household members $25 Single members $20 Incorporate d Corporate members $15 Bulletin only $15 Inaugurated 1960 Concession $10 For new subscriptions joining between: Aims and objectives of the Association 1 January and 31 March—half specified rate • Promotion of national parks and of measures for the pro­ 1 April and 30 June—annual subscription tection of fauna and flora, scenery, natural features and cultural heritage in the Australian Capital Territory and Membership inquiries welcome elsewhere, and the reservation of specific areas. Please phone the NPA office. • Interest in the provision of appropriate outdoor recreation areas. The NPA (ACT) office is located in Maclaurin Cres, • Stimulation of interest in, and appreciation and enjoyment Chifley. Office hours are: of, such natural phenomena and cultural heritage by or­ 10am to 2pm Mondays ganised field outings, meetings or any other means. 9am to 2pm Tuesdays and Thursdays • Cooperation with organisations and persons having simi­ Telephone/Fax: (06) 282 5813 lar interests and objectives. Address: PO Box 1940, Woden ACT 2606 • Promotion of, and education for, conservation, and the plan­ ning of landuse to achieve conservation. Contribute to your Bulletin Contributions of articles (news, descriptions or fiction), Office-bearers and committee black-and-white photographs and line drawings are President Eleanor Stodart 281 5004(h) keenly sought for the Bulletin. Please label photographs Vice-president Clive Hurlstone 288 7592(h); with the name of the subject, the name of the 246 5516(w) photographer and the date. Leave contributions at the office or phone the editor, Roger Green, on (06) 247 0059. Immediate The editorial fax is (06) 249 7373. past president Beverley Hammond 288 6577(h) Secretary and Max Lawrence 288 1370(h); Articles by contributors may not necessarily reflect outings coordinator 272 2032(w) Association opinion or objectives. Treasurer Mike Smith 286 2984(h); 248 3624(w) Deadline for June issue: 1 May 1996. Committee NPA Bulletin is produced by Green Words for the Len Haskew 281 4268(h); fax 281 4257 National Parks Association (ACT) Incorporated. The Stephen Johnston 254 3738(h); 264 2100(w) NPA Bulletin was produced with the assistance of funds made available by the ACT Government under the 264 2364 (fax) 1996 ACT Environment Grants Program. David Large 291 4830(h) Printed on recycled paper by Koomarri Printers, Colin McAhster 288 4171(h) Belconnen, ACT. Robin Miller 281 6314(h); 201 2191(w) ISSN 0727-8837 NPA

President's foreword The NPA committee anticipates a was of use in preparation of the actually act on the proposal. busy year if we are to keep up with proposals. We have been asked to The draft Management Plan for the the responses we would like to make help with seed collection from plants Murrumbidgee River Corridor has on local park issues. With the special growing in the area in preparation been released for public comment so combined meetings of the for seeding after the pines have been the Environment Subcommittee is Environment Subcommittee and the felled. This help will be fairly working with research officer Ray Namadgi Subcommittee late last demanding of time and needs to be Polglaze on our response. It seems to year we feel we are better placed to done on weekdays but we hope we be a very good policy document but respond to the management plan for will be able to contribute sufficiently. short on practical detail. Namadgi when it comes out and to Also concerning Namadgi is the Committee members have also consider the effects of any proposals proposed World Heritage nomination spent some time on other issues of for the Australian Nature of the Australian Alps. In last interest to members, namely future Conservation Agency to manage the September's Bulletin, Len Haskew planning for Lake George, recent park. We appreciate the time spent summarised the history of the nominations of wilderness areas in by officers from Parks and movement towards the nomination NSW in parks adjacent to the ACT, Conservation, Peter Haan and Craig and asked members to write to and the Perisher Range Masterplan. Richardson, in coming to a meeting federal and ACT government We have received modest grants to answer questions about practical members to press for action. Since from federal and ACT governments management issues and also Alex then Doug Hum arm from Victorian to help us with our work. Since we Nicolson and Brian Weir who briefed National Parks Association and I would like to increase the hours us about the marketing strategy have met with Parks and worked by the research officer to document and its implications. Conservation officers and with cover all the demands we expect this independent MLA Michael Moore to Some progress has been made year and to anticipate others, and we discuss the nomination and I have towards the rehabilitation of the have been told to look to other sources written to Gary Humphries, theACT Boboyan Pines. Parks and for help with financing the Bulletin, ininister. As a result we now have a Conservation commissioned a cultural the committee is going to have a written commitment from the ACT survey and NPA has responded to the careful look at our finances and new government in support of the resulting recommendations regarding ways of raising money. Perhaps an nomination. It will still take some roads and log dumps for removal of appeal to members could increase the effort to overcome the inertia the pines. We still need to look closely numbers who already donate between governments and to get the at the proposals for rehabilitation. generously of their time or money. four governments involved - ACT, We were pleased to note that the NSW, Victoria and federal - to Eleanor Stodart report NicM Taws prepared last year

New research officer for NPA His experience in environmental of government decision-making politics includes work with the processes through work in the Save Native Forests Non-Violent Commonwealth Department of Action Campaign in WA(1978-79), Administrative Services (1990-94), Coordinator of the Environment including positions in the WA Collective (1982-83), Secretary Environmental Futures Group of the Wetlands Conservation Secretariat, the Environment & Society (1985-87) and Convener of Procurement Section, the secre­ the ACT PSU Environment tary's office and the minister's office. Subcommittee (1991-93). Ray completed a BA in social & He has also been a student political theory at Murdoch representative on the Murdoch University and is currently University Academic Council and completing a Graduate Diploma in Senate, secretary of the Howard Science & Technology Studies at the Court Community Housing University of Wollongong. His Ray Polglaze, the NPA's new part- Association (1986-87) and academic interests are in time research officer, has a secretary of the ACT Conflict environmental politics and the critical background in environmental Resolution Service (1988-89). assessment of environ-mental policy politics, policy and campaigning. He developed an understanding documents and decisions." A walk to Mt Gurrangorambla

the slab surface smashed during these past couple of years. If only a sign had been placed on the mountain pointing out the presence of these important sites, the damage (probably done without any malice or knowledge) might not have occurred. Many artefacts were found by one member on this recent visit to the mountain and these findings have been reported to the Aboriginal Liaison Officer in the NSW Parks Service office in Queanbeyan. The mountain, which has a long summit running north/south, is dotted with huge clusters of rock, split and weather-worn into spectacular shapes. The wildflower and snow-grass meadow makes for easy walking through old, twisted gums, and views to the Snowy Mountains and the peaks of Namadgi National Park make the climb worthwhile. Late one afternoon, the walking party on Mt Morgan viewed a storm raging over Namadgi National Park with sheets of rain falling into the Cotter Valley. Hours later, after we had descended the mountain and cooked our evening meal, the storm moved in on us and crashed over our heads as we sheltered in our tents. To return to the renaming of the mountain, Mt Morgan has a well- constructed trig station also named Morgan. However, it is a mapping custom to name some trig stations differently to the mountain; for example, Mt Namadgi has its trig station named Boyle. Hence the suggestion that Mt Morgan be Mt Gurrangorambla - you haven't arrangements placed on three of the named Mt Gurrangorambla and the heard of it? No, you haven't, but that many rock slabs which cover the trig station retain the name would be the appropriate name for summit area. Morgan. Perhaps the Tumut Mt Morgan, set in the The documenting and reporting of Aboriginal Land Council could put Gurrangorambla Range in the these stone arrangements to the forward this suggestion to the northern section of Kosciusko NSW National Parks and Wildlife Central Mapping Authority so that National Park. Service was the subject of an article the special significance of this This beautiful mountain of 1870 in our Bulletin some time in 1993 mountain is recognised. metres must be an important and now NPAmembers have visited Fiona MacDonald Brand mountain in the Aboriginal culture the area again. Sadly the main stone as it has three large stone arrangement has been damaged and NPA OUTINGS

Murrumbidgee River Corridor draft plan of management In 1988 the Murrumbidgee River Corridor (MRC) draft plan of management was first made available for public comment and many individuals and organisations provided valuable comments. The original version of the draft plan was released in 1988 under the provisions of the Nature Conservation Act 1980. However, following self-government, the MRC was reserved as Public Land . The campsite on the saddle ofMt Gurrangorambla. through identification in the Territory Plan under the Land (Planning and Environment) Act 1991 (the Land Act) in 1993. As the Land Act requires plans of management to be prepared for Public Land areas, there is a need to release the draft again. This edition is a variation of the original draft plan with amendments based on the first round of public comment and requirements under the Land Act included. The draft also incorporates comments from other government agencies and community consultative groups. The draft management plan recognises and seeks to protect the high ecological and cultural resource conservation values of the MRC and is consistent with both Reg Alder, Les Pyke, Frank Clements, Syd Comfort and Fiona the Territory Plan and National Capital MacDonald Brand examine the stone arrangement on the summit of Plan. The plan is also based within the Mt Gurrangorambla. context of a broader system of ACT land and water planning, administration and management. The draft plan will be available for community comment until 17 April 1996. If you would like to make any comments on this draft plan of management, please forward them to: The Conservator of Flora and Fauna ACT Parks and Conservation Service: PO Box 1065, Tuggeranong ACT 2901 Attention: Murrumbidgee River Corridor Project Officer. Fax: (06) 207 2197. For further information on the draft plan, contact the Murrumbidgee River Corridor Area Manager on (06) 207 2195. The NPA's Environment Subcommittee is preparing a response to the draft plan Oldfields hut. Photos above by Joan Goodrum. of management. TRIPS Walking in the MacDonnell Ranges

My enthusiasm for the trip to the MacDonnell National Park west from Alice Springs, each lasting West MacDonnell National Park encompassing almost the entire two or three days, with trackheads was kindled by the nostalgia for MacDonnell Range. In recognition accessible by vehicle. This made it something truly Australian, during of the area's outstanding easy to arrange a food drop for the my trip to New Zealand the previous conservation and tourism potential, second part of our walk as we left year. Then on 5 June last year, I in October 1992 the West the trail. joined a group of 13 gathered at MacDonnell National Park was Tuesday morning saw us making Melanka Lodge in Alice Springs formally established. It now the most of the hearty breakfast at ready for my first trip to Central incorporates land acquired from the Melanka Lodge, complete with some Australia. Because we wanted to surrounding pastoral leases and of the locals and a bus load of explore an area new to most of us, many of the previous smaller pensioners eating their identical, we arranged the non-negotiable fare. trip with the aid of At 8.30 we loaded Willis's ••'-•yt-s£- • | onto a bus for the Walkabouts. Our •• •• '^jfefctj short trip to leader was Simon Simpsons Gap which Hull, a lanky was the beginning of individual who was the walk for us. Here inseparable from we joined the tourist his little leather trail to the 'gap', a leprechaun hat. He waterhole at the end was responsible for of a wide sandy river transport, food and bed dotted with navigation. We river red gums allowed 11 days for (Eucalyptus the walk, from camaldulensis). In Tuesday 6 June to the shade of the Friday 16 June. fallen rocks at the base of the eastern The MacDonnell cliff, black-footed Ranges are the rock-wallabies posed remnants of what Off the Larapinta Trail, Mike Smith on Mt Lloyd, Western and delighted the was once a huge MacDonnell Ranges. Photo by Simon Hall. tourists and bushies range, possibly alike. This gap through the ranges several kilometres high. They run for reserves along the ranges including was illustrative of the geological about 400 kilometres, east and west Simpsons Gap. history of the area, with rivers of Alice Springs. The rock is quartzite The strategy includes develop­ formed in wetter times now reduced which has outlasted the softer ment of the Larapinta Trail, with to waterholes in the gorges that have siltstones and limestones. This is hard siting of new visitor use areas been cut through the ranges, and dry on the feet, particularly if one taking into account conservation river beds. Then, following the ventures off the tracks. The creeks issues, physical development mandatory group photos, we set off which cut through the otherwise arid constraints, likely usage levels and along the well-formed trail west, ranges have provided deep gullies Aboriginal concerns, especially coming to terms with the heat holding permanent water supplies sacred sites. following a record hot June day in which sustained the Aborigines for We planned to walk Sections Two Alice Springs a few days previously. 40 000 years. But it was the colours and Three of the Larapinta Trail, of the Centre which have been from Simpsons Gap to Standley Foliage along the track was immortalised by the paintings of Chasm via Fish Gap and then notably soft grey, open grassy flats Namatjira that we wanted to explore off the completed trail with witchetty bush and mulga on experience first-hand. We weren't beyond there. The Larapinta Trail the gentle slopes. Two hours of disappointed. is an extended backpacking track. walking brought us to Bond Gap In 1989 the NT government It will ultimately run for more than where we lunched in the welcome endorsed a Conservation 220 kilometres along the backbone shade beside a water pool. The Commission Strategy for the of the ranges as a connected series multitude of zebra finches which development of the West of 13 individual walks stretching greeted us that day continued TRIPS

throughout the length of the trip. lunches, but the majority settled for three hours. They judged it the best The white or grey river red gum the Willis provision which consisted lookout of the trip. However, an trunks contrasted with the dark of muesli or oats and powdered milk, extra few hours including a leisurely grey gnarled trunks of the dry biscuits, salami, tinned fish, lunch by the spring was one of the corkwoods (hakea). All against the cheeses and, depending on the lingering memories of 'being there' brick red of the ground and leader, carrots, cucumbers and in such a special place. surrounding hills. capsicums, chocolates, nuts, jelly It didn't take long to realise the The afternoon saw us winding our babies, jam and peanut butter. MacDonnells are dominated by way over gentle hills beneath Simon included snacks in his spinifex grasslands. The roots of Arenge Bluff, in the increasing heat, catering, but not all leaders do. For spinifex can be deep, down more than to our first campsite at Mulga anyone contemplating a Willis walk, three metres. The leaf blades are Camp. The campsite was a surprise, it is worth checking what the leader hard, dry and sharp, easily as there is no reliable running water will provide, and if you have a penetrating non-leather boots. or water hole nearby, but it is particular dislike of generic brand Spinifex burns easily due to the serviced by a resins within the leaf water tank of bore blades and the water, picnic dryness, but then tables and a flourishes after fire. barbecue pit, set The associated trees on flat ground and shrubs in studded with spinifex grasslands mulga (Acacia cope with fire by a aneura) which had variety of means such avoided the as thick corky bark, damaging fires or seeds that need which so readily fire to germinate or destroy them. This favour germination level of facility in the ash, but the reflects the aim of likes of mulga can be the Conservation permanently Commission to damaged. develop the trail as The afternoon walk a resource for was a long hot haul up general public use. Shady billabongs are a welcome break from the arid landscape. the valley on the west Here, after his Photo by Mike Smith. of Mt Lloyd to Jay regular soup Creek. Here in the starter, we experienced the first of foodstuffs, negotiating the brands midst of nowhere, just as we had Simon's dinner menus, a main you prefer. (Sardine cans without been surprised to find the water tank course of corn chips, sour cream, openers are a challenge.) at Mulga Camp, was a water tap, not cheese, lettuce, lentils and mince. The second morning's walk was far from the Hamilton Youth Camp, Custard with reconstituted dried over gentle hills to Spring Gap, this run as a private youth camp, I fruit was a regular dessert from time a spring-fed waterhole flanked believe, for Aborigines who Simon. Dinner usually lasted about by white gums beneath towering red reportedly provided much of the two hours, as the main course could cliffs. Here we dropped our packs muscle to form the tracks we were not be cooked until the soup was and the group split up, depending using. We filled our water containers finished and the dessert could not on levels of enthusiasm and energy, and at the signpost which said 800 be made until the main course was to climb part or all of Mt Lloyd, 360 metres to Fish Hole where we were finished. One of the features of a metres above Spring Gap. Only two to camp for the night, left the Willis trip is their insistence on a of the party completed this side trip, Larapinta Trail and headed south. substantial dinner provided by the but those of us who said we'd stay Half an hour of walking along a leader. The main course included by the pool in fact found ourselves beautiful river bed with outcrops of rice, instant mash, pasta, polenta or gravitating up the first stage of the boulders brought us into the narrow couscous, with a rich variety of peak until we had views back to water-filled gorge of Fish Hole. Fifty dehydrated vegetables, and token Alice Springs, despite the heat and metres away was the camp. But life quantities of mince or fish and the steep rocky ground away from was never meant to be easy. The parmesan cheese. We had the option the track. The side trip to the top of freezing water of tbe hole was beyond of providing our own breakfasts and Mt Lloyd by the 'two keenest took (continued overleaf) TRIPS

Walking in the MacDonnell Ranges (continued from previous page)

our courage to swim. The only option MacDonnell Ranges cycads, surface to pitch tents. was to head up a bouldery gully to dramatic ancient plants unchanged Friday saw us leave the Larapinta pick up a well-worn track up and over for 200 million years, some Trail as we navigated towards the bluff to the other side, and a clean specimens of which are over 500 Birthday Waterhole. It was a long, sandy river bed, flanked by soft years old, and silver- and white- slow haul up the valley and down grassy banks. So much for 800 trunked gums. It provides a total the other side, with this first five metres to Fish Gap. Our camp-site change of habitat in an otherwise kilometres taking two and a half had taken well over an hour to reach arid region. The high road party hours. When we finally reached the since that sign. Even after we took three leisurely hours and the flatter plains and then a sandy creek reached the camp area, our first valley party took well over two hours bed, we continued on to find an intentions to camp near the hole for their respective journeys. elusive water hole for lunch. Along were put aside when Simon asked us The afternoon walk was through here we encountered the first of the to move further spectacular Port away as this was an Lincoln parrots, Aboriginal sacred green with their site. black heads and yellow neck bands. The following day Finally at 2.30pm, we commenced hot and tired, with Section Three of the frayed humours, we Larapinta Trail to stopped for a quick Standley Chasm. lunch, then half an After about two hour later found the kilometres of easy water hole, but the walking over gentle water was not hills with mulga drinkable. By late and witchetty bush, that afternoon our we came to Tang- river bed led entyere Junction, beneath Brinkely with an option to Bluff and event­ take what our track ually to Birthday notes suggested was Waterhole, a large two and a half hours foul pool. Two for the climb of 350 Ancient species - MacDonnell Ranges cycad. Photo by Mike Smith. families and their four-wheel-drives metres to walk along the top of the creek beds and valleys, forever arrived just on dusk. The food drop Chewings Range, or one and a half surrounded by spinifex. The relief had arrived and there was plenty of hours for the 'easier' valley option, of the herbaceous shrubs of the first space for us to camp on the sand to Millers Flat. However, the group few days was almost completely away from the mobile campers. Easy which took the valley route found it absent on this part of the walk. access by road without toilet tough going over boulders and rough Water was only for the seeking. facilities has led to pollution of the creek beds but without compensa­ During the afternoon, the area available for camping. The ting views. The high route was on adventurous climbed to a pool of unpleasant taste of the water easy track, except for part of the sweet water high up on a rock face lessened our pleasure in food, descent where care was needed, and of the creek bed. Later when we had especially soup, tea and even the the views in all directions were reached our camp-site at Angkale custard, but at least with plenty of inspirational. There was plenty of Junction at the northern end of boiling and removal of the scum, we excuse to pause on the ascent to Standley Chasm, the water reasoned it was safe. And it was all admire the views and, provided one collection brigade had to descend we had. That night we heard dingos takes a 'no-sweat' pace, it is not through the deep passage of howling. difficult. After negotiating the steep tumbled and water-worn and descent, the high route has the polished quartzite rockbed to reach added bonus of the Mesic Gully Saturday was rest day with an water and hand it up the chain gang. which leads to the meeting point at optional three-hour walk up one of The tourist end of the gorge could Millers Flat. This damp shady gorge the nearby valleys. I opted for the be reached through the channel, but is home to a number of ancient rest, taking the opportunity to boil the track notes do not recommend species of plant including the water, read, talk to the local tourists, it. The camp-site here was minimal climb the peak directly over our with most of us settling for a stony camping area, and admire the TRIPS

solitary ghost gum (Eucalyptus hours just sitting lunching and the circuit. This had to be well papuana) perched strategically to gazing there before the return trip, secured from birds, dingoes, rise out of the red cliff and silhouette which had its moments as we found wandering children, the elements against the deep blue sky Later the ourselves drawn inexplicably to the and who knew what else. photographers were delighted by same crevices and loose rocks to Several hours later we reached the sight of the rising ^ffiJt moon descend from the bluff. A full, Spencer Gorge, a narrow, water- added to this picture, and the exhausting and memorable day. On filled gorge beneath steep sides generous yellow blooms of the hakea the walk and again that night we which blocked the sun. It was deep growing in the clifFnext to the camp. heard the dingoes howlmg. and cold and we had no hope of The bird life was distinctive, with On Monday we left Birthday walking or swimming through, willy wagtails, zebra finches and Waterhole on a three-day circuit to although further into the gorge we Port Lincoln parrots in profusion. the north-west. By this stage we saw several youths equipped with We also discovered that further were all becoming acclimatised to ropes and wetsuits. No such luck for down the river bed on the other side the heat. With a relatively short trip us. Our way was up the steep hill of the waterhole, a youth adventure of seven kilometres that day we forming the western side of the group of about 40 college students delayed departure until we had gorge, through spinifex and loose had a temporary camp centre and stashed the food we didn't need for were also wandering the continued on page 11 countryside. However, they were equipped with four-wheel-drive Ramsar Conference news vehicles to move from site to site, and generators, to say nothing of Preparations under way Conference. Like any other non­ first aid facilities. In our travels we During September the Ramsar government organisation, the found various items of clothing and Standing Committee held its wetland alliance must secure equipment which left us wondering preparatory meeting to finalise approval of this delegation from at their capacity to survive in this arrangements and agenda the federal Minister for the environment unless rescue was material for the March 1996 Environment and, for this close by. It would have been Convention Meeting. This purpose, must nominate its two interesting to attend their committee, which consists of delegates. If approval is given it debriefing. delegates from about 25 countries, may still be possible at a later manages the convention between stage to alter the two names, Sunday was another optional rest the three-year meetings of the though this should be avoided if day, although some of us took a full- governments that are signatories possible. day trip to backtrack for several to the convention. The standing The AWA reference group is kilometres along the river plains committee had the opportunity to therefore seeking nominations and sandy river bed, then across the recover from jet lag on from its member organisations for base of the slope through spinifex 11 September on a field trip to the two AWA delegates. As the and rocks to climb Brinkley Bluff, Pumicestone Passage, which is NPA has just joined the AWA, we some 500 metres above the part of the Moreton Bay Ramsar would be able to nominate a surrounding countryside. The climb Site, and then met at the Brisbane representative to go to this to the saddle beneath the cliff line Convention Centre from important conference. The persons was negotiated via a rocky 11—14 September to work through should be highly organised, watercourse, over large rocks which an 875-page agenda. experienced with international were relatively free of spinifex, to conferences of this type (or the saddle. Then the climb up the With the logistics and similar), capable public speakers steep, shattered rock face required presentations to the standing and well aware of the dominant a few nasty hand and foot scrambles committee behind them, the wetland conservation issues in up slits in the rocks. The top was Brisbane organising committee for Australia. magnificent with views in all the convention meeting met in directions and an opportunity to Brisbane on 30 October to get back This will be discussed at the next trace our passage across the valleys to the detailed preparations for a February meeting. and the red and buff ridges of the gathering of 1000 delegates and Ray Polglaze will be attending Chewings Range we were following, media representatives next March. the Ramsar Conference and the soft mauves and blues of the representing the Wetlands Heavitree Range to the south. Delegation to Ramsar Conservation Society WA and Simon had been there previously taking part in workshops with The Australian Wetland Alliance and was delighted to find his people of experience from (AWA) plans to form an official original message still in the tin can throughout the world. observer delegation to the Ramsar on the cairn. We spent over two COMMENTARY

A journey through environmentalism

By Professor David Shearman, deaths in families receiving water into food production! In fact there Head of the Department of Medicine from one private company with the are only 1.5 billion hectares of at the University of Adelaide and cholera deaths in families receiving usable arable land, yet we destroy Royal Adelaide Hospital. He is also water from a second private 4 per cent of it each year. We could past President of the Conservation company. The study produced a cut down more forests and use Council of SA. This is a summary sensational contrast, over 14 weeks, marginal land. However, it is the of a speech he delivered to the SA of4000 deaths from Vauxhall water, deforestation, erosion and bad branch ofAWWA. which came from the sewage-laden management practices of the world Thames, compared to 461 from which are causing the falling Lambeth water, drawn from an production. Yet we must double food Health upstream source. His second study production by 2030 if the present My role as a senior academic and was more courageous. During an population growth continues. physician is to diagnose and treat explosive outbreak of cholera in Why do even Australian farmers Soho he ripped off the handle of the the individual patient to the have to flog their soil to earn $ 10 000 Broad Street pump, thus stopping highest international standards a year? Why are we, as a rich the community from drinking the and to pass on this knowledge to country, participating in the huge contaminated water. The epidemic my students. It is individual health loss of land through degradation subsided immediately. care and a luxury. As a scientist and each year? Why? a physician I realise that this To me this was the birth of We have an economic system that standard of health care will not be environmentalism as well as public can be compared to a flat-earth delivered to the next generation health. From then on the public would policy. To me economic theory is as unless we rapidly address our not be pacified with political alien to science as psychotherapy is impending environmental crises. platitudes about the safety of water to medicine. It has no, I repeat no, Health is the environment. The and to this day it is a wise government rational basis. GATT, free-trade two are intertwined. Good health and a wise bureaucracy that involves policies and financial policies will is the living manifestation of the community at every level of the exacerbate environmental and land management of our water resources. biological compatibility with an degradation. If you have an asset ecosystem. Standard of living you must preserve it. If it is a Air might, in our eyes, be the dollar and building you must repair it. If it is what we can buy with it, but Our environmental rights extend to land you must nourish it, yet we are ultimately it has to come from the clean air. In this country we are still building up a massive environ­ earthly necessities: water, air and divorced from the horrors of Los mental debt in this country and land. Environmentalism is a Angeles, Athens or Mexico City elsewhere. philosophy of life which embraces (though perhaps our planners The most ridiculous word is our health, our survival and the should have compulsory stays in 'growth', with politicians salivating earth's survival. This philosophy these cities). to join the growth of Asia. Yet Asian will struggle in our society so long Recent research on superfine growth results significantly from as our measure of success is the particles, those that we cannot see environmental degradation, the accumulation of assets. Such a but which we breathe, indicates that stripping of forests, massive erosion society does not like being told it our lives are being shortened by of hillsides, displacement of cannot have a car, or that it has to pollution from our transport systems, populations by dams and the pay a carbon tax. lead being only part of the problem. incredible environmental pollution The rise of asthma throughout the from the burgeoning cities. Water world is probably related, since damaging the lining of the lungs may Let us start on home ground with Ecology and health lead to a susceptibility to allergens. water. Here it is easy to see that What I am saying is that our health The cost is immense in terms of environmentalism and health are human health and pharmacy but depends on our ecological balance indistinguishable and have been so this is never put into the equation of in the world. We might be the from the beginning of human development. dominant species intellectually but health sciences. we are interdependent for life on In 1854 John Snow, a London Land many other species and systems. surgeon, conducted two revol­ As a physician I am continually It is quite a shock to read that world utionary experiments. amazed at the symbiosis which is food production has now peaked and First he compared the cholera maintained in the human colon is falling. Well, let's put more land TRIPS

where we host more diverse micro­ Walking in the MacDonnell Ranges continued from page 9 organisms than there are cells in our bodies. But put in a major pollutant, rock. It was hard work, and even site of a camp area, some of us a 'pesticide', which we euph­ harder coming down steeply, fearful shivered and sheltered under rock emistically call an 'antibiotic', and of dislodging rocks on those below. An overhangs to have lunch and others immediately diseases of imbalance hour or more had us back in the gorge walked on to set up camp and light a result. above the water hole, 50 metres fire. Most of us were frozen and were more than grateful for the fire for a Biological diversity is an important upstream of where we had left it. It while that afternoon to dry our principle. If you wait until the was worth the effort to taste the clean clothes which were wet despite our collapse of a biological system is sweet water again, sitting on the raincoats, and just to warm up. The recognisable, you will have waited rocks having lunch with the red cliffs following morning was overcast, but too long. The question is, 'Will on both sides rising above us. Our the sun broke through the cloud as humanity learn prudence in time?' campsite that night was only 100 metres away from several beautiful we forayed back up the gorge to view Conclusions pools, one of which we reserved for a it in the better fight and take some quick submerge and token hair wash. photographs. Whether you like it or not your jobs One of the environmental requests The return to Birthday Waterhole . in the water industry mean that you by Willis' was that we refrain from was via Spencer Gorge, which was are part of health care. Your job using sun creams, deodorant, soap now high with water. The walk then delivers health just as much as mine and shampoo near water. Waterholes passed across easy flats with low does. are easily contaminated and the bushes, past a herd of eight to ten Your worries, or what should be opportunity to flush waterholes is red cows, and back to our base camp your worries, about chlorine in water, limited to the occasional rains. again and our food stash, still secure the sanctity of catchment areas and under a rock in the cliff. It was still On Tuesday we continued our the destruction of sea water cold, but at least there were fresh leisurely walk westward for a few environments by sludge are just as puddles to gather clean water. kilometres up one valley, rested in important as my worries about the the cool breeze at the top of the pass, All too soon it was over. The last side effects of chemotherapy on my and then continued down the creek day was a 15-kilometre walk out to cancer patient. No, perhaps I'm bed to the entrance to Hugh Gorge the main road to our bus pick-up, due wrong. where we set up camp on the wide at 3pm. The walk was easy on soft Your concerns are more important creek bed. Then, just as we began vehicle tracks through two gaps in because the health of a thousand lunch, the rain swept in. Instead of parallel ranges, much of it through catchments and a thousand beds of exploring Hugh Gorge for the private leases. In our enthusiasm for seagrass are the basis of our afternoon, we retreated to our tents, warmth and a hot shower, we arrived survival as a species. Please do not read, slept and watched the rain at the pick-up on the main road by be complacent. leak in. Simon continued to prove 12.30pm, in time to have lunch before his worth, producing a hearty the bus arrived at 1pm on the hunch dinner of rice and chicken tandoori that we would be keen to return to with Italian vegetables which most Alice without delay. That night we of us ate standingin the rain around had our farewell dinner and said a smouldering fire. goodbye to Simon. Information on the Larapinta By morning our creek bed of sand Trail can" be obtained from the and stones was awash with puddles Northern Territory Parks and of clean fresh water. The stalwarts Wildlife Project Coordinator (Alice were up early and with the help of Springs), PO Box 1046, Alice some kero, firelighters and any dry Springs, NT 0871. Fax (089) 51 paper we could part with, got 8268. Phone (089) 51 8211. sufficient fire started to cook rolled Willis's Walkabouts provide many oats. Mio^orning, when the rain had guided walks, mostly in northern eased, we packed up and wandered Australia, but cover other areas south through the beautiful gorge. including the MacDonnells. Water disappeared under the sand, Information, including a 40-page only to reappear regularly in pools guide of do's and don'ts in Central along the length of the gorge. Most, and northern Australia, is available but not all, of us managed to from 12 Carrington Street, Millner Matthew Higgins negotiate the four kilometres without NT 0810. Phone (089) 85 2134, falling into the water hazards. fax (089) 85 2355. However, by noon and almost within Annette Smith PARKWATCH

alone 90 new courses were proposed course in Georgia. It is characterised The golf bogey in 1994. Many of these courses only by meticulously manicured turf With an estimated 25 000 courses serve a few wealthy people in which requires massive water and and 50 million enthusiasts world­ essentially poor countries and are chemical inputs. An estimated wide, golf is one of the most popular often built on lands of high 50 000 tonnes of agrochemicals are sports in the world today and biodiversity and in the ancestral used each year on courses around the probably also the one with the territories of indigenous people. world, frequently causing pollution' greatest environmental impact. A Much of the passionate opposition of surface and ground waters. global anti-golf movement has to golf courses in the third world is emerged as a result. Jn Australia we have built 1500 caused by their high demand for In Japan alone, by the end of 1993 courses to accommodate the water in competition with agri­ there were 2016 golf courses, more than one million cultural and community needs. 315 under construction, 80 with Australian players and to attract People ask why the recreational permits to start and 1300 in the international tourists. To date needs of the rich should threaten the planning stage. All in a country the golf industry in Australia Hvelihood of the poor. When Thailand supposedly short of land! has escaped concerted scrutiny was hit by the most severe water from the environment movement. In South-East Asia, the social and shortage in its history during 1994, It is unlikely, however, to environmental impacts of the golf the Royal Irrigation Department continue unchallenged. mania have been so devastating reported 13 golf courses illegally that a global anti-golf movement diverting water from public sources. Habitat, ACF magazine, December has formed. Loss of forest and Apart from the environmental 1995 agricultural land, destruction of impacts of golf course siting and wetlands, depletion of water construction, the impacts from Privatising our parks resources, contamination from run­ course operation have increased over In recent years, the clamouring to off and highly toxic chemicals, air the years. Originally, courses like the privatise national parks in Australia pollution from pesticides, disruption famous St Andrews in Scotland were has become increasingly strident of communities and a widened gap built on coastal dunes, using and much better orchestrated. This between the rich and poor are all push is coming from self-interested naturally occurring 'bunkers'. The problems which the movement has opportunists who pose as promoters greens were rabbit-grazed flats, linked to golf course developments. of ecotourism, and political native vegetation survived and ideologues, who can't accept that Golf tourism in Thailand and the nature was the architect. These older public ownership of national assets Philippines is tainted with courses have often served as is legitimate. These forces want to allegations of corruption and important refuges for wildlife. snatch national park management criminal involvement: yet golf is so However, worldwide this model has away from the public sector and popular that the demand for new given way to the 'Augusta Dream', remove some existing constraints on courses keeps growing. In Indonesia named after the famous American the exploitation of some parks' tourist potential and make profits in the process. Because they now see very high stakes, they are prepared ACT remnant woodlands to invest increasing amounts on propaganda to win support from an Ecologists at the ACT Wildlife Although there are extensive unsuspecting public. The advocacy Research Unit are planning a nature reserves in the ACT, they for a privatised national park major project to survey and map contain mainly highland forests system cannot go unchallenged and remnant woodlands in the ACT. and woodlands. The lowland unanswered by the voluntary The project will involve: woodlands are not as well reserved. conservation movement. • identification of significant areas However, the aim is not to create of remnant woodlands in the ACT more nature reserves to protect Park Watch, VNPA journal, from maps and air photos remnant woodlands. Rather, it is December 1995 • field surveys to check assess­ to develop cooperative manag­ Lake Eyre Basin ments, compile flora lists and ement agreements with rural describe any special conservation leaseholders which will contribute wetlands threatened values to improved land, water and soil Australia's magnificent arid • preparation of maps and other quality on farms while conserving wetlands in the Lake Eyre Basin are data reports woodland remnants. threatened by a proposal to construct a cotton irrigation development on a • eventual development of manage­ Landnews, Land and section of Coopers Creek near ment strategies. Environment newsletter, Windorah in western Queensland. December 1995 31 March Work Parties — 21 April Sunday walk 2/A/D ^Bamadgi National Park Nursery Hill Ref: Rendezvous Ck 1:25000 Outings program Leader: Len Haskew Leader: Jack Smart Phone: 248 8171(h) Contact Len by the Wednesday to express your interest and find Meet at Kambah Village Shops at 8am. Walk from Orroral Val­ March 1996 - June 1996 out what is to be done. This is an opportunity for members to ley car park following track to SE end of Nursery Swamp and demonstrate how much they value Namadgi NP by doing their climbing Nursery Hill, a climb of some approx. 300 m. If time bit to help maintain and improve it. Attend either day or both. and weather permits, the walk will be extended to Point 1403. Return will be via the steeper NW slope of Nursery Hill to Nurs­ 5-8 Easter Canoeing ery Swamp track. Mallacoota Inlet 60km drive $12 per car Leader: Chris Bellamy Phone: 249 7167(h) Mallacoota Inlet is 4 hrs drive from Canberra. Using the town's 24 April Wednesday caravan park as a base offers lots of options for estuary and river Heritage Month activity trips with opportunities to glimpse lots of wildlife. A highlight Tidbinbilla before the Nature Reserve usually involves enjoying afternoon drinks at the Gipsy Point Matthew Higgins Hotel together with its surrounding birds. Hire or BYO canoe. Venue: Room 1 Griffin Centre, off Bunda St Civic. Contact Chris on the above number by Wednesday 3 April. Time 8pm Cost $250 per car. We all know and love Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve. But what was the area like before gazettal of the reserve in the 1960s? Matthew 5-8 Easter Pack walk presents an insight into the life of some of the people who once Belowra and Yowrie called Tidbinbilla "home'. Using a splendid collection of slides, Wadbilliga National Park Ref: Belowra, Yowrie 1:25000 and a tape of illuminating oral history interviews backed by Leader: Pat and Eric Pickering Phone: 286 2128(h) atmospheric bush sounds, the show traces the life and times of the Joint FBI/NPA walk. Contact leaders for details. A four day ad­ Tidbinbilla district from the turn of the century. $5 entry, supper Outings guide venture in the remote Wadbilh'ga NP. We intend to climb Belowra included-A National Trust Activity. and Barren Jumbo Mountains. We saw these peaks from Day walks carry lunch, drinks and protective clothing. Jillicambra Mountain on the Oct 94 walk. We shall all explore 25 April Thursday Anzac Day 1/C Pack walks two or more days, carry all food and camping the Wadbilliga River, either Queens Pound River or Lake Creek Jumbuk Flat and Emu Flat Ref: Corin Dam 1:25000 requirements. CONTACT LEADER BY and one of the nearby Ridges. Rock scrambling, rock hopping, Leader: Murray Dow Phone: 288 4371(h) WEDNESDAY. steep climbs and swimming if warm enough. Contact leader to book. Joint walk with CBC. A Cook's tour of Car camps facilities often limited or non-existent. 375kms drive $75 per car. sub-alpine valleys in one of my favourite walking areas. Starting vehicles taken to site can be used for at Smokers Trail see two brumby yards near Jumbuk Flat and camping. BOOK EARLY WITH LEADER. 14 April Sunday walk 4/A/B/C boil billy at Emu Flat, where the daisies and gentians should be Boboyan Circuit Ref: Yaouk 1:25000 Other activities include nature rambles, environmental and flowering. Mostly of tracks very light scrub. Leader: Max Lawrence Phone: 288 1870(h) 272 2032(w) field guide studies and ski tours. 40km drive $8 per car. Meet at Kambah Village Shops at 8am. This is a long 25kms Walks gradings circuit walk from the car park at the Boboyan Pines. The first 26-28 April Pack walk 2/A/C/D leg is south along the Old Boboyan Road to Naas Creek past Monolith Valley/ Distance grading (per day) Sentry Box along the Sams River fire trail for excellent views of Clyde Valley Circuit Ref: Corang 1:25000 1 - up to 10 km Mt. Gudgenby. Return over Gudgenby Saddle and through the Leader: Mike Smith Phone: 286 2984(h) 248 3624(w) 2 - 10 km to 15 km pines. There is not a lot of climbing, but walkers should be rea­ 3 - 15 km to 20 km Contact the leader by the previous weekend for details. A 4 day sonably fit and well equipped for a long walk. ramble in this classic area of the Budawangs. Approach from the 4 - above 20 km lOOkms $20 per car. Long Gully, Yadboro River entrance via the Kalianna ridge, pos­ Terrain grading sibly side trip to scramble up The Castle, traverse Monolith Val­ 20 April Saturday walk 2/A/B/C A - Road, firetrail, track ley, side trip to Mt Cole, view Crooked Falls, follow Hollands Gorge Hospital Creek area. Ref: Yaouk 1:25000 B - Open forest to the Clyde River and return to start over the gap between The Leaders: Allen and Noela Atkins Phone: 292 1777(h) C - Light scrub Castle and Byangee Walls. D - Patches of thick scrub, regrowth Meet at the Namadgi Visitors Centre at 8.30am. From the car 350km drive $70 per car. E - Rock scrambling park at Boboyan Pines walk some 4kms along the Old Boboyan F - Exploratory. Road before cutting across country to Hospital Hut, from there we follow road back to Franks Hut. Return to cars will be via Bogong Creek and through the pine forest. Total distance about 13kms with little strenuous climbing. 27 April Saturday 1A/B 11 Saturday walk 2/Atf^ 1 June Saturday walk 2/A/B Heritage Month walk Ni^Hry Creek area Ref: Rendezvous Ck l:25ol^P Tidbinbilla Circuit Ref: Tidbinbilla 1:25000 C.E. Lane-Poole Memorial Bushwalk Ref: ACT 1:100000 Leader: Martin Chalk Phone: 292 3502(h) Leader: Max Lawrence Phone: 288 1370(h) 272 2032(w) Leader: Matthew Higgins Phone: 247 7285(h) Meet at Kambah village shops at 8.30am. A 10km walk from the Meet at the Kambah Village Shops at 8.30am. From the car park This walk commemorates the pre-Franklin Road 1930s Nursery Ck car park in Orroral Valley to take in part of the ridge in the reserve above koala enclosure, a steep climb to Snowy bushwalks along the Brindabellas by C. E. Lane-Poole, head of overlooking Rendezvous Ck and returning to cars via top end of Corner, and then along the top of the range to Tidbinbilla Moun­ the Australian Forestry School and the inaugural President of Nursery Swamp. tain (great views) and Tidbinbilla Peak. Return via different route. the Canberra Alpine Club which built the Mt Franklin Chalet. 60km drive $12 per car. Total climb of over 700 metres. We shall scale Mts Aggie, Franklin and the skiers little Ginini. 60kms $12 per car. About lOkms on and off track. Short car shuffle required. Num­ 12 May Sunday morning walk 1/A bers will be limited so book with leader on above number. Joint Mulligans Flat Gungahlin Canberra's UBD 22 June Saturday walk 2/A KHA/NPA activity. Leader: Beverley Hammond Phone: 288 6577(h) Mt Tennent Ref: Williamsdale 1:25000 Return drive is about 120kms suggest $24 per car. Meet at 9am at the NSW border on the Gundaroo Road from Leader: Max Lawrence Phone: 288 1370(h) 272 2032(w) Gungahlin. We will walk beside the Northern boundary of Meet at Kambah Village shops at 8.30am. A walk from the 24 April-2 May (or longer) Mulligans Flat Reserve, then along the old road to the woolshed Namadgi Visitors Centre to the summit of Mt Tfennent, using the Great North Walk for morning tea. Return via the Flat. Alpine Walking Track for part of the way. A climb of 750 metres Sydney to Newcastle CALM route maps to excellent views over southern Canberra and Namadgi from Leaders: Pat and Eric Pickering Phone: 286 2128(h) 18 May Saturday walk 3/A this striking landmark at the end of the Tuggeranong Valley. Contact leaders before 28 February for details. The Great North Rendezvous Ck to Nursery Swamp Ref: Rendezvous Ck Return via the access road down the Western side and a short Walk between Sydney and Newcastle was opened in the 1:25000 car shuffle from the Honeysuckle Road. Bicentennial year 1988. It was the idea of two Sydney Leader: Murray Dow Phone: 288 4371(h) 40kms $8 per car. bushwalkers and was taken up by the NSW Department of CALM. Contact leader to book. Joint walk with CBC. Leave a car at The total distance is 250 miles and takes 14 days. Much of the Nursery Swamp car park, then drive to where Rendezvous Ck walk is in State forest, National Park and council bushland. The crosses the road. Follow tracks up Rendezvous Ck, inspect Abo­ 'discovery kit' available from CALM indicates an exciting walk riginal rock art, over the divide to Nursery Swamp, and in­ with great views, splendid forest as well as historical and yes, spect the Aboriginal art there too. Easy walking in the valleys some urban features. We are thinking of a trip of at least 7 days, of Namadgi. shorter or longer options can be arranged. A meeting for those 60km drive $12 per car. interested will be held on Tuesday 5 March to discuss arrange­ ments. Join us for a day, few days or more. 19 May Sunday walk 2A/B Canberra's Western Hills Ref: Canberra & 28 April Sunday 1/A Tuggeranong 1:25000 Points to note Heritage Month walk Leader: Stephen Johnston Phone: 288 3738(h) Blue Range area Ref: ACT 1:100000 Please help keep our outings program alive by volunteering Contact leader for bookings and enquiries. The western Hills of Leader: Doreen Wilson Phone: 288 5215(h) to lead outings. New leaders are welcome. The outings covenor Canberra - Stromlo, Arawang, Neighbour and Urambi - offer is happy to suggest locations suitable for a walk if you do not Meet at the corner of Eucumbene and Cotter roads at 8.30am. sweeping views across the Murrumbidgee valley and Canberra. have something in mind yourself. Feel free to send in Easy walk on tracks and steps - Blue Range Hut to Sherwood A surprisingly challenging walk on the edge of the city so a rea­ suggestions for outings to the association's office as soon as Homestead site. Historic area with Autumn colours. Return sonable level of fitness is required. you think of them, with a suggested date. after leisurely lunch and interpretation of site. 25km drive $5 per car. 35km drive $8 per car. All persons joining an outing of the National Parks Asso­ 26 May Saturday walk 2/A/B ciation of the ACT do so as volunteers in all respects and as 5 May Sunday walk 2A/B Badgery's Lookout to Shoalhaven River Ref: Caoura such accept sole responsibility for any injury howsoever in­ Rob Roy Range Ref: Tuggeranong 1:25000 curred and the National Parks Association of the ACT, its & Williamsdale 1:25000 Leader: Mike Smith Phone: 266 2984(h) 248 3624(w) office bearers and appointed leaders are absolved from any Leader: Stephen Johnston Phone: 288 3738(h) Meet at the corner of Northbourne Ave and Southwell Park at liability in respect of injury or damage suffered whilst en­ Contact leader for bookings and enquiries. The most recent addi­ 8.30am. A 10km return walk to the Shoalhaven River from gaged in any such outing. tion to Canberra Nature Park provides superb views over the Badgery's Lookout near Tallong. Involves a 600 metre descent The committee suggests a donation of TWENTY cents per Murrumbidgee valley and north over Canberra, and some inter­ to explore along the river and lunch at swimming hole near kilometre DIVIDED BY THE NUMBER OF OCCUPANTS in esting woodland. Some steep climbs are involved so a reasonable Tryers Gorge. the car, including the driver, (to the nearest dollar) be offered level of fitness is required. 250km drive $50 per car. to the driver by each passenger accepting transport. Drive 20km drive $4 per car. and walk distances quoted in the program are approximate distances for return journeys. PARKWATCH

At risk from this proposal are Forgotten plantations A transport corridor in each state hundreds of kilometres of the capital has been chosen and the Cooper and Diamantina Rivers in discovered projects will focus on real outcomes South Australia, currently under Judy Clark, resource economist, has in each of these corridors. In assessment for "World Heritage unearthed a forgotten pile of 'old' Canberra, the Civic to Gungahlin values. These rivers are the home plantations, some of which date back transport corridor has been chosen, to waterbirds and fish, including to 1910. The stockpile, growing on due to the current and forecasted significant numbers of endemic 88 000 hectares in areas throughout growth in this area. Australia, could provide 24 million species. The lower flood plain of the A prime aim of the project is to cubic metres of sawn timber Cooper is already one of the world's examine the various ways by which immediately. This is equivalent to six largest wetlands listed under the public transport can be improved to times the annual native forest cut. Ramsar Convention on Wetlands of allow people to easily replace car Harvesting the stockpile would International Importance. journeys with cleaner alternatives. enable an immediate and complete Even though this proposal clearly Put simply, how can we help to phase-out of native forest logging and has an impact over a very large and convince the general community to provide a huge land base for future fragile area, under current leave their car at home? regulations it is not subject to an plantation establishment. The fact environmental impact statement. that these trees were forgotten Sustainable Times, newsletter of the The developers have only to satisfy emphasises how poorly our state Environment Centre . and the requirements of an initial advice forest agencies have managed Conservation Council, November statement to the Queensland plantations and how public money 1995 Department of Primary Industries. spent on their establishment has so Here is yet another instance where far been wasted. These trees could state boundaries obstruct the best earn $830 million for state forest protection of our environment. agencies and up to $3 billion in sawn timber sales. Wilderness News, magazine of The New members as at Wilderness Society, summer 1995/96 Wilderness News, magazine of The 1 February 1996 Wilderness Society, summer 1995/96 Walking trail launched Trade Hogan, The Environmental Walking Trail at Protecting Australia's Roger Butcher and the Illoura Community Horse ecosystems Stephen Hogan Spence Holding Paddocks in Lyons was opened on Saturday 23 November by The vision of a comprehensive Gary Humphries, Minister for the system of parks and reserves for Robin, Sue, Nicholas, Environment, Land and Planning. Australia is a step closer with the Katie and Alison Miller Garran The trail is a two-kilometre self- provision of $4.3 million for land Phillip and Andrew " guided walk which focuses on farm acquisition and related projects. Donehue Aranda planning and catchment The recent mapping of Australia management. The aim is to engage into 80 regions has been vital in Carol people's interest in how cleverly a identifying the gaps in our current Summerhayes Yarralumla farm plan can achieve the seemingly system of reserves and in choosing Kingston opposed aims of nature conservation the projects to be funded. Ross Scott and improved rural productivity. NPA News, newsletter of NPAQ, Dr L Morauta Deakin The walk starts at the historic January 1996 Illoura horse yards and follows Ianeways and equestrian trails Smogbusters through the 70-hectare complex, A national smogbusters project has taking in spectacular views of the been established to focus on air HELP NEEDED surrounding countryside. A pollution, its relation to the increased pamphlet has been produced to use of the private car and ways of ACT Alive assist users as they meander along promoting better patronage of public We need volunteers to staff our the trail. This pamphlet explains transport. The project, which will run some of the principles of catchment for 12 months, is an initiative of the display at ACT Alive on Monday management from an agricultural network of state peak conservation 16 March in front of old and environmental perspective. groups. The project is supported by Parliament House. Please contact David Large on 291 4£>30 Landnews, Land and Environment the Commonwealth EPA. newsletter, December 1995 PARKWATCH

Bushland near Bega saved

On 15 September the Australian ferns and rock orchids, which are won't be raise Bush Heritage Fund announced its protected by massive granite latest purchase: 120 hectares of boulders. Some of the plant species bushland on the Brogo River, north­ are at the southernmost limits of west of Bega. The Bega Valley was their natural range. Red gum grassy heavily cleared for farming and woodland is not protected in any |st}|fj£^ today only 8 per cent of the natural Australian nature reserves and is |accepj||h^^ vegetation is left. Bush Heritage has considered to be of national secured the future of one of the importance. largest and best preserved of the Sustainable Times, newsletter of fa|t|yrfa^ remnants, consisting of red gum the Environment Centre and grassy woodlands and dry rainforest Conservation Council, November species such as Port Jackson figs, 1995

Community Biodiversity Network llpi'de^^ The Community Biodiversity country. They also produce |fj|&p|^ Network is a network of non­ overviews of the National government, community-based Strategy for the Conservation of 1 tfolb Sej|m^ organisations who aim to help Australia's Biological Diversity conserve biodiversity, and who from different perspectives. These are designed to clarify your •TnlWiic^ act as a catalyst for community action. It is a clearing house for role in the strategy's implemen­ information on biodiversity tation, and indicate how your conservation, and if they don't work or campaign fits into the have what you need, they can tell strategy. you where to get it. The World Wide Web home They produce a short, sharp page site is at the following :T|fn;^ monthly bulletin of key address. biodiversity issues around the http://www.peg.apc.org/~bdnet ;§||f|]|pffyo^^ i ?s3^eBa^^?at|lfe wo f |dr|^eXe^S¥s it%^| 1 Murmg-alstn^ ACT conducted by Greening Australia]. The discovery of these and other willow seedling populations outside the ACT has led to the development of a broad willow management plan for the upper Murrumbidgee catchment. This management plan involves the removal of seedlings and their parent material and the production of educational materials for the general public and river management authorities. Broadcast, newsletter of Greening Australia, Oct/Nov 1995 NPA OUTINGS Bredbo-Cowra Creek mining sites trip

The November outing to the Bredbo-Cowra Creek mining sites provided a great deal of interest in observing the now deserted mining sites and dwellings scattered over a wide area on the line of the load. There was a good deal of sympathy for the miners in the conditions under which they worked in the narrow, steeply sloping tunnels and the distances that the ore had to be carried down deep slopes for processing. They did, however, have some time for pleasure. Our party is pictured here (right) at the site of a cemented cricket pitch, which is indicative of the length of time the mines operated and the number of miners on the field. Photo by Reg Alder.

Middle right. Old bakehouse. NPA work party update INDIGENOUS The first work party for 1996 took The Parks Service would be very place at Tennent Homestead on happy if we could take part in some 17 January. Under the guidance of more of these midweek working Ranger Geoff Young, six NPA bees. There is a lot of work we could members resheeted the old garage. assist with at the Tennent site and The original asbestos sheeting had Geoff Young works there about one been removed and when we arrived day per month. Another ranger. only the heavily listing frame was Steve Moore, is engaged in seed standing. At the end of the day the collection for the proposed garage was resheeted and standing revegetation of the Boboyan Pines upright and even the doors were area and he too would appreciate swinging (well, almost). I was quite our assistance. surprised, though, when none of the If you would like to be involved in participants were willing to drive either of these activities, or both, their own vehicle in to test it out! please give me a call on 281 4268. in|J|^ All in all we had a pleasant and The work is satisfying and the productive day. company pleasant. Normally at the Tor^ end of the day we've had a good time.

Len Haskew

Inhn^atyvS^ Publications received by NPA

Publisher/Author Publication SriAnstraliajilNa^rel ACT Land, Dept of Urban Services Land Information newsletter Australian Alps NP Newsletter S£iip^p^gJ^^ta*s!gwe M|s:as| Australian Bush Heritage Fund Bush Heritage News Aust Geolog Survey Organisation AGSO Newsletter Australian Conservation Foundation Habitat Australian Science & Technology Council ASTEC update Australian Wetland Alliance Newsletter Canberra & District Historical Society Newsletter CASEREC & CCSERAC Sustainable Times ||ffom^ CASEREC Bogong |n|e:nj2^^ Clean up Australia 2001 Newsletter |ffl^a^p$y||J'W^ Colong Foundation for Wilderness The Colong Bulletin fa^endie*Sj Community Biodiversity Network Biodiversity Bulletin Confederation of Bushwalkers (NSW) Bushwalker NSW CSIRO ECOS L^cu^ Dept of Env, Sport & Territories Australian Environment News Environment Ctr & Con Council Sustainable Times Field Naturalists Association of Canberra Newsletter Greening Australia ACT & SE NSW Broadcast Greenpeace Ozone fact sheet Greenpeace Olympic report Japan Publications Trad Co Ltd Pacific Friend Kosciusko Huts Association Newsletter Land & Envir Bureau, ACT Landnews ||p|s|eri§i^^ National Parks Association of NSW National Parks Journal National Parks Association of Qld NPA News & Activities Handbook 1996 NPA Southern Highlands Branch Newsletter National Trust of Aust (ACT) Trust News Nature Conservation Society of SA Xanthopus Office of the Status of Women Agenda Total Environment Centre Total Environment llVi'clonal VNPA Newsletter VNPA Parkwatch NPA OUTINGS

The Alpine Walking Track from Orroral Valley to Murray's Gap

170-metre climb was a good preparation for the rigours of the day and came to a decisive crest at the edge of a swampy flat, the headwaters of Prairie Dog Creek. A little-used track runs off to the right to a green stream gauge about 250 metres from the crest and, 300 metres further on, the road comes to a slight rise with a large pile of granite rocks on the right. The track to Cotter Gap runs off to the left in a south-westerly direction. With the considerable summer growth of grass and a small log lying across it, the track looks insignificant and is easily missed. It was one of the original bridle tracks connecting the Orroral and Cotter valleys and was bulldozed in 1983 to facilitate vehicular access to the bushfrres.

continued overleaf

The last section of the Alpine return trip in a challenging but very Walking Track through the ACT to enjoyable weekend. We left the car the NSW border is probably one of at the Orroral gate at 8.40am and the mast challenging and interest­ set out on the road which runs ^Depeiid^ ing, as it involves a total climb of initially north-west to link up with ^ahflj^b^^ more than 1200 metres and crosses the Cotter Hut Road. After about ^liouse^ the wilderness section of Namadgi 10 minutes we reached a side track ^hut^or: ^U^home^tead^ National Park. Because it also coming in from the right and crosses the upper Cotter catchment, signposted 'to Honeysuckle Creek' 'fiastJcVritul^D^ it is important that walkers- and after another 15 minutes intending to camp in the catchment reached a second signposted track first obtain a permit from the Parks on the right. The sign up on a tree ^ivith^^^ and Conservation Service and a fire at the junction pointed to Rowley's ;£acguif^e^ permit from the ACT Bush Fire Hut and, obscured from our view as ^JVlaxweffWas^ Council if an open fire is planned. we walked along the road, was the For those wanting to take it in Alpine Track marker post. The track •Hs;gQ^some diBfer^^ easy stages it is best done in two was presumably routed past days, walking from the Orroral Rowley's Hut when the hut was still |;ba^ofp^ valley to the Cotter Valley in one day standing and it was an appropriate and then climbing up to Murray's camping spot. We did not walk the gfiroliahle^ Gap on the second day, with plenty diversion but continued along the jfsit|Fm^l9^5 of time for a strongly recommended road. i|Wa^s|omrtt^^ side trip to the summit of the After about another half y^placgdf^ highest point in the ACT, Mt kilometre, the road starts to rise and Bimberi. A somewhat easier side part of the way through the climb |Bad|tB5el lJbji|p^ trip is to Mt Murray but the views swings south-west, offering are not as good and there is no water glimpses of the Orroral Valley and ,^aM|&e1^ ^(free?arfdj. at the summit. the big rocky outcrop on the range Tim Walsh and I did the whole east of the Orroral Homestead. The NPA OUTINGS

The Alpine Walking Track continued from previous page It seems rather silly that no Alpine Creek. If in doubt about the right marks the end of the descent from Walking Track post has been placed route, the best option is to head Cotter Gap. Pond Creek Flats offer at the track junction. As mentioned, straight toward the Cotter Rocks many options for camping with the track is easily missed. It is only which sit imposingly above the gap. reliable water. Coronet Peak can be marked on the South-Eastern North of Pond Creek Crossing the seen to the south. Tourist map of the 1930s, the 1929 ground is dry and provides a good The junction of a track marked on Feature map, the 1964 Tourist map camping spot with fairly reliable the Rendezvous Creek 1:25 000 map of the ACT and the 1959 Bimberi water. If time allows, a side trip up (and the 1929 map) running south­ 1:50 000. All of these are well out of to the Cotter Rocks is strongly east to a stream gauge at Little print. None of the presently available recommended because of the good Creamy Flats was not apparent. If maps covering the area - the Corin views they provide and the it is observed leading off to the left, Dam 1:25 000, TantangaTa 1:100 remarkable L-shaped passageway the track straight ahead should be 000, ACT 1:100 000 or the 1989 formed by a huge split in the main followed. In my home state of Namadgi National Park map and rock. Victoria one often comes across four- guide — show the route. Furthermore, From the camping spot the track wheel drive tracks that are not John Siseman's book on the Alpine crosses the creek and heads south­ marked on the maps. It is very Walking Track shows it continuing west across the swamp and back pleasing and appropriate that one to follow the management road up into the forest. After about can find the reverse in the Namadgi to the Cotter Hut Road. Finally, the 20 minutes, as the track descended wilderness area. Tracks marked on area is outside the Namadgi through the forest, we caught the some maps, such as that to Little wilderness zone where track mark­ first glimpse of our objective, Mt Creamy Flats and the Sams Creek ers have not been placed. Bimberi. Then another 40 minutes Fire Trail, are disappearing from view through lack of vehicular use. The track to Cotter Gap initially on we crossed one of the side climbs through a fairly thick tributaries of Pond Creek which From Pond Creek it took us about understorey of tall banksias over the end of a north/south spur running down to Prairie Dog Creek and then drops into a gully formed by Sawpit Creek. As the track runs parallel and to the south of Sawpit Creek it traverses some beautiful open forest with grassy understorey. Following the recent heavy falls of rain the track was quite swampy in parts. A small tributary of Sawpit Creek is crossed, marking the start of a 250-metre climb to Cotter Gap on the eastern boundary of the Cotter catchment and Namadgi wilderness area. The track from this point down to the Cotter Valley is often narrow and quite overgrown. Sometimes the bulldozer cutting into the side of the hill is visible through the scrub, at other times it is difficult to trace. The extent to which it has been overgrown in just 13 years is an encouraging indication of how quickly trails can be reclaimed by the bush. The last section of the climb is quite steep and, after reaching the crest, the track can be difficult to follow down to the open, swampy area The method adopted by Len Haskew to divert a particularly persistent formed by the headwaters of Pond attacking magpie in the Naas Valley. Photo by Reg Alder. NPA OUTINGS

45 minutes of^ easy walking to reach at the gate and crossing the Cotter and we welcomed the opportunity to the Cotter River where we stopped just upstream from the hut. At this stop for a chat with Brett for lunch. The final descent from a point the route shown by Siseman as McNamara, the ranger from low rise into the valley is following the management road is Bendora Dam, who was driving particularly impressive as one looks met. down after checking the condition of north down to the poplar that marks At 2.00pm we began the long haul the track and clearing some fallen the original site of Cotter Hut, over up to Murray's Gap. The road branches. the green Cotter Flats and up to the initially runs south for about 1.5 The main climb ends where the huge mass of the Bimberi Range. It kilometres, just west of the Cotter track suddenly turns south and is a scene that has changed little in River through magnificent, open drops into one of the tributaries of more than a century and for forest, to the Y junction Murray's Jack's Creek and then follows the landscape values alone is of creek, crossing it three times in immense importance. the final steady rise to the One recalls the poignant grassy and rather boggy flat at comment of former Naas ILDERNESS ENTRY. Murray's Gap. We reached the grazier and stockman, gap at 4.05pm. There is a large Everard Oldfield, to area for camping at the base of historian Matthew Higgins Mt Murray on the southern side on hearing that the second of the gap with reliable water. Cotter Hut had been The Australian Alps Walking Track It is a welcome destination, demolished, That's buggered is about to enter the marking the border of the ACT the Cotter.' Of course from and the Cotter catchment. Bimberi Wilderness. Beyond lie Kosciusko National our perspective it hasn't, but There will be no signs or directional what would well and truly Park and the remaining markers to indicate the Australian Alps 720 kilometres of Alpine "bugger the Cotter' would be Walking Track for a distance of 19km. the opening of management Walking Track to Walhalla in tracks into the valley for The route follows the Murray Gap Track central Gippsland. After a ecotourist operators as has Yaouk Trail and Cotter Gap Track. 25-minute rest we crossed the swampy flat and began been suggested in the draft Please be prepared for remote area navigation. ACT Tourism Strategy and, climbing up to Mt Bimberi worse still, allowing the foUowing the many pig tracks entry of recreational motor but later came across some hoof vehicles. For now and, marks of horses. They could hopefully, for the long-term have been brumbies up from future, the valley remains a Kosciusko but were possibly beautiful, peaceful place but evidence of a horse riding party still readily accessible in a illegally in Namadgi. After a longish day's return walk for few rest breaks we reached the moderately fit people. Bimberi trig just after 6.00pm. The views in the late afternoon Just before our final descent light were stunning and ample to the Cotter we passed a The alpine track sign positioned about 200m reward for the last 500-metre vehicular track coming in to 300m from the start of the Cotter Gap track climb which sapped our limited from the left that is not in the Orroral Valley. The wilderness area energy reserves. There are marked on the map. Parties commences when the track possess through numerous places to camp near coming in the opposite the Cotter Gap into the Cotter catchment. the summit under the big snow direction could easily mistake Photo by Reg Alder. gums and usually water can be this more heavily used vehicle found in a soak north-west of the track for the Cotter Gap track. Gap turn-off. The road forming the trig. After dinner we returned to the Another variation worth noting is the left branch of the Y leads to Yaouk trig to watch the sunset and then ford across the Cotter. The track Gap. There is a sign at the junction retired for a well-earned sleep in turns sharp right through an open but it is easy to miss. The track preparation for the somewhat easier farm gate, heads north across the climbs steadily for about two return trip to the Orroral Valley. paddock and then, after crossing the kilometres then, after crossing Little Cotter, loops back to the ranger's hut. Bimberi Creek, the steepest section Stephen Johnston This is not marked on the map. The rising 300 metres suddenly track that is marked on the map is (with thanks to Reg Alder for commences. On a warm January barely discernible, heading to the left reviewing the text and providing afternoon it was fairly hard going additional information) TRIPS

Mongolia - pristine but for how much longer?

Three Australians were among a industry that exists was set up and the Informatics Centre at the group of international earthquake maintained by the Soviet Union, Academy of Science, gathered a geologists who participated in an their northern neighbour, who had group of international experts from International Field Workshop on the come into the country after the diverse disciplines to study parts of Active Faults of Western Mongolia Mongolian revolution in 1921 and the earthquake faults so as to help in August 1995. This exotic- upon whose expertise and imports the government evaluate the sounding name always conjures up the whole economy was based. Since earthquake hazard. visions of Genghis Khan and his the disintegration of the Soviet The biggest city is the capital hordes galloping across wide grassy Union and the withdrawal of most Ulaan Baatar ('Red Hero'), home to plains on their sturdy wild horses Russians, the economy has fallen about a quarter of all Mongolians. and camels in the Gobi Desert. What into considerable disrepair. We spent four days there. Some of else do we know about Mongolia? Cautiously the Mongolians are the most memorable features of Ulaan Baatar are the rolling grassy hills surrounding the city and the river Tuul - a great torrent after a prolonged period of rain - winding its way through the south of the city. To our great surprise we encountered large wild deer grazing on its banks only ten minutes' walk from our hotel. Apparently the government is now encouraging families to leave the cities and take up farming again in an effort to become less dependent on imports. Our field trip took us first to Mogod 200 kilometres west of the capital, site of a major earthquake on 5 January 1967. For two days we walked the grasslands along the surface rupture of that earthquake whose fine structures of pressure ridges and tension cracks were still A campsite in the grasslands near Mogod. Photo by Kevin McCue. clearly visible. It was like walking in an alpine meadow: grasses knee- high with a myriad of flowers in full Not much - and all the more reason opening up to the outside world and bloom (August is late summer in to eagerly look forward to a once-in- are adopting western-style Mongolia); several species of blue a-lifetime opportunity to visit a economics. gentians and delphiniums, white country that is only now starting to Like Australia Mongolia has a daisies and purple thistles dotted realise its place in the international very low population density and vast the landscape. This is also where community. arid areas. But very much unlike we saw the only trees outside Ulaan Mongolia is about one-third the Australia there have been three Baatar: a clump of gnarled and size of Australia with a population great earthquakes (magnitude ragged aspen no more than five of about two million. There are only greater than 8) in Mongolia this metres high but what welcome a couple of major cities and nearly century. With a changing economy shade at lunchtime! Looking back half the population still live as and expanding infrastructure, the some hours later from another nomads, herding their sheep, goats, Mongolian government is hilltop we saw a line of several horses, camels and yaks through the understandably concerned about hundred deer - probably elk - countryside according to the the possible effects of further large moving along the ridge towards seasonal availability of fodder. The earthquakes. Dr Ganzorig, Head of that little patch of trees and TRIPS

Our little convoy of two trucks, three four-wheel-drives and a busload of foreigners took three days to cross the Gobi Desert ('Stony Desert') on a braided gravel track several kilometres wide that negotiated dry creek beds and the occasional river. Despite the difficult road conditions our bus bottomed only once and our resourceful drivers managed to repair the two blow-outs with the tools on board within the hour. It is absolutely amazing how much wildlife the Gobi Desert can support in addition to the herds of domesticated animals. The only vegetation seemed to be various grasses that grew in sparse tufts in the pebbly soil, the occasional desert Ih Bogd Massif in the Gobi Altay Range. The Bogd fault runs along the onion (a chive-like herb) and a foot of the range. Photo by Kevin McCue. succulent plant reminiscent of saltbush, but the desert was teeming with burrowing animals completely disappear in it. And fault shaking have been like during such as ground squirrels, voles and climbing down into a valley we this and the magnitude marmots. In addition, there were startled a wolf out of cover - so they 8.4 earthquakes on 9 and 23 July hundreds of eagles and hawks, and have not all been shot. 1905 in north-west Mongolia, where the occasional vulture, waiting on The next stage of the trip took us faulting occurred over a distance of the ground (there are no trees in the south to the Gobi Altay Mountains more than 300 kilometres? Although desert) for one of them to venture on the edge of the Gobi Desert where there was little damage and no loss too far from the safety of their a magnitude 8.1 earthquake on of life, the earthquakes shook the burrows. 4 December 1957 caused surface whole of Mongolia and were felt widely in Russia and China. ruptures extending for more than In the evenings we pitched our 250 kilometres. What must the near- tents as close as possible to water which we shared with sheep, goats and cattle that roamed the open spaces freely. Although one had an unobstructed view for miles on i'r those open plains, we often couldn't even see the yurts (or 'gers' as they are called in Mongolia) of their owners who round them up on horseback at milking time. After finally reaching the edge of the mountains with the 4000-metre- high snow-capped massifs of Ih Bogd and Baga Bogd, we walked a different part of the Bogd fault each day. Most impressive were the 6-metre-high so-called shutter ridges that form during faulting in a hilly terrain, and so well preserved in the arid Gobi climate they might have occurred only last week. We can well imagine how A field kitchen in the Gobi Desert. All wood for the two stoves had to be repeated earthquakes like this one carried with us — there are no trees or shrubs in the desert. could build the Gobi Altay Range Photo by Sonja Lenz. TRIPS

A gentle walk in the Pyrenees

Anyone contemplating an alpine a compatible group. hillside pastures where large flocks trek in Europe may be interested to The route we took is based on the of sheep were grazing. While this learn of my experiences on a 15-day high level path in the western and was part of the extensive Pyrenees guided walk in the southern central Pyrenees and covers almost National Park, the policy is to allow Pyrenees in August/September last the entire length of the Pyrenees traditional practices to continue and year. For reasons that I am unable National Park. It is rated as a Grade as a consequence all available areas to explain I have always had a desire C trek and in my assessment well are heavily grazed. Stone huts are to explore the Pyrenees and when deserves that rating. scattered throughout the mountains the opportunity was offered to join The assembling point was at Pau, (equipped with modern radio this walk as part of an extended a pretty town at the foot of the telephone systems) and the overseas trip, I did not need much mountains which I reached by train shepherds tend their flocks and persuasion. It was an excellent from Toulouse. From there we make cheese from sheep milk on the decision and I would recommend travelled by mini bus to the small spot all through the summer. As this area to anyone interested in a village of Lescun where we camped some mining is also permitted, the hard but rewarding walk through for the first night overlooked by the description 'national park' seemed spectacular mountain scenery. surrounding rocky mountain peaks strange to my understanding of the The party I joined was a semi- which appeared formidable at that term and there was some evidence supported guided tour arranged time but were to become quite of overgrazing and erosion. through Peregrine. There were familiar to us in the days ahead. The climb of the actual Pic d'Anie 13 starters: six Australians, two Our first day of walking was a gave a clear indication of what could New Zealanders, three English and climb of Pic d'Anie, an 8200-foot be expected on the rest of the walk. two Scots, together with an English rocky peak not far to the west of Rough, rocky paths, loose shale and guide and a Spanish cook/support Lescun. This was a good very steep grades really tested us, person. Ages ranged from about introduction to the area, starting off particularly in the final section 25 to 65 but abilities were fairly gently through pine and beech which zigzagged almost vertically to reasonably equal and overall it was forest and leading to the open rocky the summit. However, the views

Mongolia continued from previous page pollution outside Ulaan Baatar and over prolonged periods of time. But government of the day will try and the sparse population does not put mountain-building is not simply a improve the living standard of the too much pressure on the natural vertical process; we saw an example population by asking western resources. The greatest threat until of how active mountain ranges companies to build up an industry now has been over-grazing by extend laterally with the growth of based on the abundant and largely domestic animals. But the lack of a forebergs, deactivating and unexploited, even unexplored, proper road system outside the stranding huge old alluvial fans and natural resources above and below main cities and increased use of forming new ones along the active the ground. And from there it is only motor vehicles also means that vast frontal system. a small step to far-reaching areas are prone to soil erosion, as In our two weeks of travel we only degradation of the countryside and we could clearly see by the degree saw a small fraction of central waterways, pollution of the air and of destruction of the soil surface Mongolia: the windswept extinction of many of the plant and caused by vehicles in the Gobi grasslands, desert plains and animal species that make up the Desert. towering mountain ranges in the unique flora and fauna of this Clearly, Mongolia is a country at central west. In the north are wonderful country. the crossroads: how long will extensive forest areas with Although Mongolia has several so- Mongolians be content to live their waterfalls and wild boar, wolves, called nature reserves there are no old life of a subsistence economy brown bears, antelope, elk, deer, national parks as we know them. based on the numbers of animals moose and caribou; and lynx and Only with international help and they tend? With increasing foreign snow leopard roam the more remote financial support will Mongolia be tourism and the introduction of and mountainous west. able to establish a viable future for western consumer goods their Mongolia is justifiably called the its natural environment. most pristine country in Asia as perceived needs will also grow. It is there is hardly any industrial easy to visualise how the Sonja Lenz and Kevin McCue TRIPS

A gentle walk in the Pyrenees continued from previous page

from the top - one side in France, Each day's walk took us through glad to put our feet up. the other in Spain - and the perfect, country which ranged from high, On four occasions our paths led to clear sky made all the effort rocky grassland rather similar to camping places in villages and we worthwhile. some parts of the Kosciusko main had the luxury of a good hot shower The pattern for the walk was set range, to beautifully forested and the chance to stock up on the following day when Pasquale, valleys,- past clear glacial lakes, essentials such as bandaids and our Spanish cook, drove all 14 of us where the more adventurous paused chocolate. My favourite of these was crammed into the 'Sherpamobile', a to swim, and over high shaly passes. Torla, an old stone village in a lovely Ford transit van designed for local The tracks were often rough with river valley over the border in Spain. deliveries, to the starting point for loose stone or shale that moved The change of language, customs the high level path. We were not to under your feet and the grades over (and lower prices) added a further see Pasquale again for two days, the passes that frequently had to be dimension to the trip. when our path would again cross a negotiated were quite testing. Two From Torla we walked up the road and he could drive us to a sections of the track involved the use Ordessa Gorge, a spectacular 'mini camping area. This night we would of fixed chains to cross difficult areas Grand Canyon' with high cliffs all spend in one of the refuges scattered but for the faint-hearted (like me) around, and beautiful, unspoiled throughout the park which provide there were alternative routes forest in the valley. This led again basic but reasonably comfortable involving a much longer climb. All to the high mountains on the border dormitory accommodation and around were spectacular white, red and through the Breche de Roland, meals. In total we were to spend five and grey rocky peaks. The distances a gap in the rock wall between Spain of our nights in these refuges which travelled each day were hard to and France. Descending to Gavani, meant carrying a medium weight judge but probably averaged about a popular French tourist resort, we pack of personal gear, sleeping bags 20 kilometres and the days were then travelled by minibus to and so on, together with a share of long, commencing about 9.00am and Lourdes where the journey ended. the food required by the party for not ending until we reached camp lunches on the track. after 7.00pm, by which time we were There was not a lot of wildlife to be seen in the mountains. Occasionally we caught a glimpse of chamois high on the ridges and Cartoon by there were many colonies of Matthew marmots, small dog-like creatures, Higgins hiding among the rocks, their sentinels sending out piercing whistling calls as we approached. Many peaks had their flocks of vultures, sometimes up to 40 or 50 in number, resting on the ledges or circling in the thermals. We were informed that the Pyrenean bear is now found only in a limited area and is facing extinction. I found the walk hard but most enjoyable. While the mountains are not high by world standards - Vignemale, the highest peak in the area, being 10 817 feet - they are sharp, impressive and divided by deep valleys which require the paths to climb steeply over passes up to 9000 feet. This demands a good level of fitness. We were fortunate to have almost perfect weather, cool and clear, which certainly contributed to the enjoyment and success of the trip. Susan?.. .1 KNEW we should NEVER have gone on one of HIS walks...SUSAN? Alan Ray Calendar

March Thursday 7 Committee meeting, for location contact Eleanor Stodart 281 5004 (h) Thursday 14 Namadgi Subcommittee, for location contact Robin Miller 281 6314 (h) Thursday 28 Environment Subcommittee, for location contact Stephen Johnston 254 3738 (h) April Tuesday 2 Committee meeting, as for March Thursday 11 Namadgi Subcommittee, as for March Tuesday 23 Environment Subcommittee, as for March May- Thursday 2 Committee meeting, for location contact office Thursday 9 Namadgi Subcommittee, as for March Thursday 23 Environment Subcommittee, as for March June Thursday 6 Committee meeting, as for March Thursday 13 Namadgi Subcommittee, as for March Thursday 27 Environment Subcommittee, as for March

NPA Bulletin If undelivered please return to: SURFACE POSTAGE National Parks Association of the ACT PAID PO Box 1940 Woden ACT 2606 MAIL AUSTRALIA Print Post Approved PP 248831/00041

General meetings Held at 8pm, Room 1, Griffin Centre, Bunda Street, Civic

Thursday 21 March: Threatened Species Legislation. The ACT is developing its own threatened species legislation and Debbie Worner and Bill Logan from the Wildlife Research Unit of the Parks and Conservation Service will speak to us about current proposals.

Thursday 18 April: The Boboyan Pines. The harvesting and rehabilitation of this area is a matter of interest to all NPA members. Tonight we are fortunate to be able to listen to a presentation on the area from Dianne Garrood, Manager, Conservation and Wildlife Section of the ACT Parks and Conservation Service.

Thursday 16 May: The Queanbeyan Area. Queanbeyan City occupies a relatively small area yet it contains many areas of ecological and environmental significance. Councillor Tom Baker, who has had a committed association with the Monaro Conservation Society, will speak to us about what is happening in the area, the society's role and the importance of Landcare activities.

Thursday 20 June: Canberra Nature Park. ACT residents are fortunate to have access to such a rich resource as Canberra Nature Park. A quick glance at our Outings Program seems to suggest that NPA makes very little use of the facility. The park's manager, Odile Arman, will speak to us about the park's management and the various functions that the area seeks to facilitate including the study of urban wildlife, the provision of fire management and the all-important task of encouraging park care within the community.