Cliveden’s Chapel

A comprehensive guide to ’s Chapel through the ages, from Tea Room, to private Chapel Introduction

You’re entering a special place on Astor commissioned the the Cliveden Estate. It’s both a architectural firm of John Chapel and a final resting place. Loughborough Pearson to complete Originally designed and built in the the works. Pearson was the leading 18th century, its sober stone exterior gothic revival architect of the conceals a rich, decorative scheme day, and previously undertook the conceived in the late 19th century refurbishment of the at for (1848- Cliveden. He died in 1897 and the 1919). work was carried out by Pearson’s son, Frank. Astor first proposed the idea of converting the 18th century Tea This involved major structural Room into a splendid private chapel alterations to change the former in 1897. He wrote on the 7th July two storeyed building in to a double that year to the ‘Vicar’ of the Parish height space. Frank Loughborough of , W. G. Sawyer, expressing Pearson worked with Messrs that he had ‘it in contemplation to , at that time, the convert what is called the “Temple” prime workshop specialising in at Cliveden into a Chapel’. stained . The same firm provided the The process of transforming the drawings for the intricate drawings of Clayton and Bell into panels which adorn the walls for an elaborate design in pieces of Robert Davison, who also executed coloured , known as the alabaster work, the Altar and tesserae was completed in several the Cosmati marble floor. Davison’s stages. letterhead outlined the work that could be undertaken by the In the first phase, the tesserae would company; ‘architectural, decorative have been laid onto facing paper over and monumental work in marble, sections of a reversed version of the granite and stone, mosaic decoration Clayton and Bell design. The cubes in enamel and gold, marble and of glass would have then been cut ceramic, mosaic pavements in to size and shape and when correct, marble and tile’, - much of which glued to the facing with a water- would have been employed in the soluble adhesive. creation of the Chapel.

Pearson as managing architect, The completed mosaic panel would presented some of the costs to Mr have been transported to Cliveden Coode-Adams, Astor’s agent, on flat and once on-site, assembled into 26th June 1901; ‘Marble floor – manageable sections, largely along £390.0.0, Bronze door - £218.10.0, lines which exist in the design to Bronze windows £200.10.0 and the reduce the appearance of seams. altar £204.10.0.’. Davison recorded When the sections were ready, they that the work on the Chapel was were lined up and pushed onto the ‘practically finished’ on the 6th April bedding mortar. Once the panels 1901. Davison used the traditional were in place and the mortar set, the craft to produce the mosaic panels facing paper would be washed off, for the walls. leaving the design in all its glory. The Chapel floor Iconography

The floor in the Chapel is a The theme of the decoration is decorative style called Opus Sectile, based on a complex iconographic often referred to as Cosmati after scheme, based on the type and the late-medieval Roman family antitype illustrated in the 15th who developed the style in . century Biblia Pauperum. This It is comprised of thirty-seven types text used medieval theology to of cut, trimmed and polished stone examine the way in which the Old from Europe, North , Western Testament was fulfilled in the New Asia and the British Isles. The Testament. large purple-red central sphere and four corner roundels are Egyptian In an overview of the scheme in the Imperial Porphyry, historically Chapel, William Waldorf listed the used for the tombs of the Roman type as for example, ‘” The serpent Emperors. tempting Eve.”’ and its antitype of ‘”The Annunciation”’. The complexity of the floor is expressed in the 337 different This explores the concept that Eve shapes of stone which surround brought sin in to the world, but that the central sphere alone. Its redemption was brought about by style is in the manner of ‘Opus the Virgin Mary who gave birth to Alexandrinum’ seen in connection the Saviour. with the shrine of St Edward the Confessor at Abbey.

The following pages describe the type and antitype from the Old and New Testaments which can be found on the lower level, and scenes from the life of Christ on the upper levels. Together with the saints and angels depicted in each panel. Biblical Narrative

1. Annunciation & Temptation of Eve flanked by Prophets Ezechiel & Daniel

ECCE ANCILLA DOMINI FIAT MIHI SECUNDUM VERBUM TUUM

‘Behold the handmaid of the Lord; be it unto me according to thy word.’ – Luke Cap: 1 V:38 [King James Version]

Angels holding scrolls for Genesis Cap 3, V:1

“Now the serpent was more subtil than any beast of the field which the LORD God had made. And he said unto the woman, Yea, hath God said, Ye shall not eat of every tree of the garden?” – King James Version 2. The Presentation of Jesus in the Temple and Samuel Dedicated to the Temple flanked by Prophets Isaiah and Jeremiah

IPSE ACCEPTIT EUM IN ULNAS SUAS ET BENEDIXIT DEUM

Then took he him up in his arms, and blessed God. – Luke Cap:2 V:28 [King James Version]

Angels holding scrolls for 1 Samuelis CAP: 1. V24

“And when she had weaned him, she took him up with her, with three bullocks, and one ephah of flour, and a bottle of wine, and brought him unto the house of the LORD in Shiloh: and the child was young.” – King James Version 3. The Adoration of the Shepherds & The Burning Bush flanked by Saints Matthew and Mark

VERBUM CARO FACTUM EST ET HABITATVIT IN NOBIS

And the Word was made flesh, and dwelt among us. – John Cap:1V:14 [King James Version]

Angels holding scrolls for Exodus CAP: 3. V:2

“And the angel of the LORD appeared unto him in a flame of fire out of the midst of a bush: and he looked, and, behold, the bush burned with fire, and the bush was not consumed.” – King James Version 4. The Flight to Egypt & Rebecca Sending Jacob to Laban flanked by Saints Luke and John

ACCEPIT PUERUM ET MATRUM UJUS NOCTE ET SECESSIT IN AEGYPTUM

When he arose, he took the young child and his mother by night, and departed into Egypt – Matthew CAP:2 V:14 [King James Version]

Angels holding scrolls for Genesis CAP: 27. V.43

“Now therefore, my son, obey my voice; and arise, flee thou to Laban my brother to Haran;” – King James Version 5. The Transfiguration

HIC EST FILIUS MEUS DILECTUS IPSUM AUDITE

This is my beloved Son: hear him. – Luke CAP:9 V:35 [King James Version]

The three saints depicted underneath the inscription are:

- St Ambrose [Ambrosius] with a pastoral staff - St Andrew [Andreas] with a white saltire - St Jerome [Hieronymus] with a quill pen

6. Agony in the Garden

PATER SI VIS TRANSFER CALICEM ISTUM A ME

‘Father, if thou be willing, remove this cup from me.’ – Luke CAP:22 V:42 [King James Version]

The three saints depicted underneath the inscription are:

- St Cecilia [Caecilia] with a musical instrument - St Peter [Petrus] with a book and a key - St Catherine [Catharina] with a Catherine wheel 7. The Crucifixion

POSUIT DOMINUS IN EO INIQUITATEM OMNIUM NOSTRUM

‘Laid on him the iniquity of us all’ – Isiah CAP:53 V:6 [King James Version]

The three saints depicted underneath the inscription are:

- St Stephen [Stephanus] with a stone - St John [Joannes] with a book depicting him as writer of a gospel - St Alban [Albanus] with a sword

8. The Resurrection

NUNC CHRISTUS RESURREXIT A MORTUIS

Now Christ is risen from the dead. – 1 Corinthians CAP:15 V:20

The three saints depicted underneath the inscription are:

- St Agnes with a lamb - St Paul [Paulus] with a sword and a book - St Helena with a cross 9. The Ascension

ASCENDO AD PATREM MEUM ET PATREM VESTRUM

I ascend unto my Father, and your Father - John CAP: 20 V:17

The three saints depicted underneath the inscription are:

- St Augustine with a Bishop’s staff - St James [Jacobus] with a pilgrim’s staff and a book - St Gregory [Gregorius] with a cross with three bars

10. Latin inscription below cornice

EGO SUM PRIMUS ET NIVISSIMUS ET VIVUS ET FUI MORTUUS ET ECCE SUM VIVENS SECULA SECULORUM ET HABEO CLAVES MORTIS ET INFERNI

I am the first and the last, the Living one. I was dead, and behold I am now alive. Throughout the centuries I hold both the keys of death and of hell. – Revelations CAP:1 V:17-18 The Sanctuary

Christ - Alpha and Omega

EGO SUM PRINCIPUM ET FINS

I am the beginning and the end

I am Alpha and Omega, the beginning and the end, the first and the last – Revelation CAP:22 V:13

Abner visiting David at Hebron

2 Samuel CAP 3 V:6-38

ABNER VENIT AD DAVID CUM VIGNTI VIRIS The Queen of Sheba visiting Solomon

REGINA SABA AUDITA FAMA SALOMONIS VENIT

Christ as the Resurrection and the Life

EGO SUM RESURRECTIO ET VITA

I am the resurrection and the life. – John CAP:11 V:25 Astor final resting places

The Sanctuary holds the remains of:

- William Waldorf, 1st Astor [1848-1919] - Waldorf, 2nd [1879-1952] - Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor [1879-1964] - William Waldorf II, 3rd Viscount Astor [1907-1966] - Robert Gould Shaw III [1898-1970]

The Altar

The altar within the sanctuary panel. On the left leaf there is is made from polished marble an image of a saint, globe in and mosaic inlays. The his right hand and a beaming roundels on the front divided boy and an angel. by Corinthian pilasters are, from the left, the Hexagram, On the right leaf, there is the Greek cross and the Star a saint with a model of a of David, which are potent church in his right hand and a symbols of Islamic, Christian beaming boy with a gift before and Jewish faiths. him and angel above.

This triptych altarpiece, Above the central panel is the made by Barkentin and Lamb of God, surmounted by Krall, the foremost liturgical two angels playing the harp metalworkers of the era, and two trumpets. depicts the Adoration of the Magi in the arched central The Windows

The stained-glass windows show depictions of the six Cardinal Virtues of the Christian Faith. They are; Faith [Fides] and Hope [Spes], Charity [Caritas] and Purity [Puritas], Strength [Fortitudo] and Truth [Veritas].

The two circular windows in the transepts show demi-angels, one bearing crowns and the other bearing palms. Conservation

The complexity of the This has caused the salts to leach iconography is matched by the out of the stone panelling on complexity of the materials the walls and crystallise. The used to decorate the chapel, damp conditions can also cause each responding differently the mosaic to become detached to environmental conditions. from the mortar. Where this has The situation of the chapel on happened the white fabric you the downward slope from the can see helps keep loose tiles in mansion aggravates the problem place. creating a damp environment which is detrimental to the Another way we reduce the conservation of metal, marble deterioration is by reducing the and mosaic. The conservation of relative humidity (RH) in the this special place requires regular Chapel. The cables and sensors monitoring and maintenance to that you see are monitoring ensure the viability of the chapel the temperature and RH and and its precious decoration for controlling the heating, switching the future. it on automatically when the RH rises above the optimum, and The structure of the Chapel is switching it off when it comes nearing 300 years old, with the back down. interior decoration dating from over 120 years ago and with any building of this age, there are visible signs of decay. The nature of the building, which was cut into the cliffside, means that there is a cool damp climate.

Please check our website or call in advance to check the Chapel is open for your visit. For more information, ask one of our knowledgeable stewards inside the Chapel.

Website: nationaltrust.org.uk/cliveden/ features/the-chapel-at-cliveden

Phone: 01628 605069

*Please note, if the weather is below 10c the Chapel will be closed in order to protect the delicate tiles from the elements.