It becAme HArd to fEATuRES REPORT predIct wHetHer mumbAI’s elIte or mumbAI’s wAs cAusIng A pApArAzzI stIr; botH mIngled togetHer beAutIfully wHen sAIf AlI KHAn wAlKed over to rItA dHody, All AAdAAb And grAce personIfIed even As devAunsHI meHtA RAISING THE BAR looKed on. Lakmé Fashion Week trumped many of its own precedents for a gamut of reasons this season. High-voltage support from a smattering of film icons, glimpses of a select social and industrialist set, strong media presence and a more or less successful format of offsite shows. Amidst all the fashion bonhomie, two designers stood a cut above the rest, thanks to the profile of a dream guest list but most importantly, because of the impeccable finesse of the collections they showcased. Anamika Khanna and Anand Kabra, take a bow. Nisha Jhangiani reports…

he whispers began on but calm, shrugging her shoulders and Nita Ambani posed resplendently a lazy Sunday morning. crossing her fingers when asked when with daughter Isha before taking her Anamika Khanna’s much- the show would open its doors to all seat and animatedly greeting Deepika touted finale presentation, who were flocked outside. Padukone, and in readiness to unfold And finally, when we were let in, Shabana Azmi. Rhea Kapoor looked Twithin the magnificently poised walls we saw a lobby that had been hastily prepared to cheer already. of Mumbai’s historic Dr Bhau Daji converted into a presentation space. But, fittingly so, the above was Lad Museum, was sinking under the Photographers were crammed by hardly a parameter of the show’s Anamika Khanna, Khan Nita Ambani, Isha Ambani troubled waters of a political protest. the staircase, editors could only be success. When the real heroes A few hours later, the salvo of bad accommodated on the second row descended down the spiral staircase, Saif Ali Khan Sonakshi Sinha Carol Gracias news was delivered via frantic calls due to a severe shortage of front- even the most jaded could not and messages, redirecting the invitees row placements and Ms Khanna, the help but applaud. Definition here, to the Palladium Hotel, with an urgent creator of all that was being prepped deconstruction there…a fluid falling request to arrive latest by nine pm. backstage, was dashing here and there, connected with a structured Sceptical about this unimagined worry etched clearly on her visage. zardosi overlay. Cutwork and change of plan, I nevertheless reached And even I was saying my own little threadwork reinterpreted and aligned the venue on time, only to be tagged prayer for the petite designer, what I to Khanna’s signature shapes and with a VIP wrist band and led to the was hearing and seeing suggested that colours; free-flowing drapes, long open courtyard (otherwise reserved no appeals would be needed. Rohit coats, billowing capes in a precise for snacking, lounging and cigarette Bal had apparently knotted his lungi palette of ebony, ivory, gunmetal, silver breaks during fashion week). Sonakshi earlier on and gotten down to brass and nude-gold. The woman once again Sinha was patiently waiting for the tacks, assisting in every area possible, merged refined craft with effortless magnum opus to begin, cheerily with and Tarun style. And despite the phenomenal chatting her way through the hour. Tahiliani pitching in where they could. upheaval generated by a small-minded Verve’s editor, Anuradha Mahindra, a It became hard to predict whether sect intending jeopardy, the sheer rare sight at any fashion event these Mumbai’s elite or Mumbai’s Bollywood strength in the solidarity emanating days, was being welcomed by all who was causing a paparazzi stir; both from Anamika’s own fraternity, coupled knew her, even as she held on to her mingled together beautifully when Saif with the unflinching support of her companion, daughter Divya. Suhani Ali Khan walked over to Rita Dhody, influential admirers, showed, without Pittie, who had designed the jewellery all aadaab and grace personified doubt, that a winner can take her for sister Anamika, walked past harried even as Devaunshi Mehta looked on. crown against all odds.

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FEATURES NJ Fashion Report-VOL-142.indd 86-87 4/25/15 9:43 PM Surily Goel, Manish Malhotra Sabina Chopra Natasha Chib, Maneka Thadani Shahid Datawala, Bhawna Sharma Marielou Phillips

Roohi Jaikishan, Verve’s Nisha Jhangiani Rhea Kapoor, Pernia Qureshi Sona Mohapatra, Anand Bhushan

Sangita Kathiwada, Priya Nathani Rohit Bal and Manish MalhotRa Mingled fReely, pRaising a shaRaRa, adjusting an-aBout-to-slitheR- off dRape and discReetly iMpaRting encouRaging advice – a dReaM MoMent foR any designeR who Anand Kabra, Rohit Bal looks up to his senioR counteRpaRts. At the quieter end of this spectrum creations to a top brass destination stood tall, glorious in its purity of cut stood a designer much lauded and wedding, she was ready to scout again, and fabric, enhanced with restrained Aditi Rao Hydari, Jacqueline Fernandez acclaimed but one who had taken a offering keen inputs on whatever embroidery while the unapologetic backseat from active applause for the caught her eye. Aditi Rao Hydari made printed pattern section chose a bolder, last few seasons. Anand Kabra chose an early entrance, infusing her custom- more individualistic vibe in vermillion, his return with a very specific structure made lehnga with a paradoxically ochre, black and ivory. Zardosis and – a venue within the hotel but nowhere enchanting mix of grandeur and laces completed the quartet, closing near the show areas; a concept driven demureness. In a matter of minutes, the collection with distinctive motifs by installation and imagery rather than the room was bursting to capacity. that were infused with the essence live demonstration on mobile form and Shobhaa De and Roohi Jaikishan, both of Hyderabad, confidently aware that a closed-door guest list. first-time visitors to a Kabra showing, they would fit in with any sophisticated Kabra’s tension was subtly took their time leisurely taking in the occasion that demands elegance. palpable the afternoon of his showing. glorious ambience of couture-to-wear, Especially when paired with satin- A 3D mapping that was to evoke and near the entrance, Jacqueline smooth embellished sandals and a Arundhati De, Shobhaa De, Avantikka Kilachand a strong print story coupled with Fernandez posed and preened in her capsule compilation of pearl, onyx and Nizami nostalgia on the walls of his specially created silk jumpsuit with an metal baubles, gently superimposed suite was taking precious hours to open beaded and laced jacket. Rohit with dainty ornamentation, all be perfected. Lifeless mannequins Bal and Manish Malhotra (another conceptualised by the designer to that required artful adornment were common thread of support between culminate his fashion message. proving to be as uncompromising Anamika and Anand) mingled freely, What Anamika Khanna and Anand as an irate customer. The carefully praising a sharara, adjusting an-about- Kabra achieved, to great success, was selected gourmet bites, chosen to to-slither-off drape and discreetly to take freely from an indomitable echo the contemporary Indian mood imparting encouraging advice – a Indian heritage and sync that rich of the display, were ready to roll, the dream moment for any designer who tradition with a modern twist, one that champagne already chilling on ice. looks up to his senior counterparts. made every garment they presented Surily Goel was the first to And circling this happy chaos, were indisputably their voice. They took the arrive, 15 minutes before show time. four mini-collections aesthetically ball and smashed it out of the stadium. Having recently worn one of Anand’s marking their attendance. The mul line More power to them. V

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FEATURES NJ Fashion Report-VOL-142.indd 88-89 4/25/15 9:46 PM