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Issue No. 238 Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: PARTY party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday.

GAMES: page 10

HIDE AND hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W SEEK WITH June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, ELECTION page 5

CASH conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E A BIRN investigation uncovers evidence that the ruling Serbian Progressive Party has illegally Friday • June 13 2008 used proxy donors to fill campaign THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED

coffers with cash from secret on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. sources. How authorities respond is T a test of their independence.

Vladimir KOSTIC Vucic, Serbia’s then Prime Minister, was the Progressives’ combative candidate t first, they asked nothing in for head of state. return. Victory would hand his party its A local member of Ser- fourth straight win in presidential and Abia’s ruling party had helped parliamentary polls over six years and her get a job as a teacher. She knew further cement Vucic’s position as the plenty of others who had found work at most powerful man in Serbian politics. public institutions or companies run by At one meeting, an official took the people with ties to the Serbian Progres- teacher aside and handed her cash: sive Party. No shame in that, especially 40,000 dinars, then worth around 320 with unemployment rates approaching euros. It came from a large donation, 15 per cent. the official explained, giving no further As presidential elections drew near details. Would she donate it back to the in the spring of 2017, the party invited party in her own name? her to weekly meetings. Aleksandar Continued on pages 2 and 3

The day after the Serbian presidential elections on June 2, thousands of demonstrators, Photo: Beta mostly young people, took to the streets in cities all over Serbia, blowing whistles and banging pots.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Party Games: Hide and Seek with Election Cash

ecutors urging them to launch criminal “This has never been done and there proceedings in relation to the transac- is no plausible excuse for the failure tions, worth some 46,000 euros. of the prosecutor’s office to do so,” he The agency suspected the donations said. were “actually from illegal activities, In Serbia, public prosecutors are among others money laundering”, it nominated by the government and said in the report, seen exclusively by confirmed by parliament, meaning BIRN. their election depends on the ruling The ACA’s report also highlighted majority. They serve terms of up to six two suspicious bank transfers to other years and can be re-elected almost in- parties, one worth 5,600 euros to the definitely. Socialist Party of Serbia and one worth Unique in the region, the system is a 690 euros to the United Regions of Ser- “political process par excellence” that bia. The report urged prosecutors to opens the door to obstruction of justice, take action regarding those transfers as said Radovan Lazic, president of the well. board of Serbia’s guild of prosecutors. The Progressives and the Socialists “If prosecutors know they will after a did not respond to questions from BIRN certain period of time be elected again about the specific contents of the ACA’s by politicians, they have no reason to report or any potential charges relating find fault with them,” he said. “A pros- to the 2014 election. Nor did Mladjan ecutor is even quite motivated not to Dinkic, the former leader of the United find fault so he can get a new mandate.” Regions of Serbia, which is now de- Serbia is ranked 118th out of 137 coun- funct. tries in terms of judicial independence The Progressives also did not re- on the World Economic Forum’s latest spond to questions about the five self- Global Competitiveness Index, just confessed proxy voters in 2017 and the below Bosnia, Mauritania and Mozam- ACA’s discovery of donors who were on bique. welfare in 2012. World Bank analysis in 2014 showed On October 18, a day after BIRN pub- that 25 per cent of judges and 33 per lished its investigation online, Vucic cent of prosecutors in Serbia thought defended the campaign finances of the the justice system was not independ- Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic and former President Tomislav Nikolic, posing together with former Photo: Beta Progressives, known in Serbia by the German Chancellor Gerhard Schröder during Vucic´presidental campaign. ent. acronym SNS. “SNS is the only clean party, clean as the 2014 election to prosecutors, Bozo thing. And then they delay, in my expe- The prosecutor’s office said it had a whistle […] The SNS has clean money Draskovic, a former ACA board mem- rience.” sent the report back to the ACA for fur- Vladimir Kostic is a Belgrade-based from the account that it is receiving ber, blamed “political influence”. Jelena Djordjevic, an adviser at the ther checks. It declined to comment investigative journalist specialising in from the state,” he said. “SNS does not “Bear in mind that people in the ACA ACA’s Department for the Control of further. As of publication, it had not public financing, corruption and crime. need tycoons.” take their cue from the board,” he said. Financial Statements of Political Sub- pressed charges. This article was produced as part of “If the board is independent, it would jects, said the agency had no power to Nemanja Nenadic, programme direc- the Balkan Fellowship for Journalistic The June demonstrations after Alexandar Vucic was elected president in Belgrade, the poster reads: “Against the terror of the regime”. Photo: Beta POLITICAL INTERFERENCE? put pressure on the director and others investigate or examine witnesses, mak- tor of corruption watchdog Transparen- Excellence, supported by the ERSTE to get the job done, but if it's under po- ing it hard to initiate criminal charges cy Serbia, said prosecutors had a duty to Foundation and Open Society Founda- just got the envelope with ted being fake donors from a list of er candidates, which came to just over The protests had echoes of mass These sums became the financial fin- Asked about the agency’s three-year litical influence, people risk losing their itself. For that reason, it had sent its find- scrutinise suspicious donations to find tions, in cooperation with the Balkan the money and the account names published on the website of the 4.3 million euros. demonstrations in 2000 that brought gerprints of suspicious activity during delay in submitting the report about job. That’s the essence of the whole ings to prosecutors, she said. out where the money came from. Investigative Reporting Network. number to pay it into,” she Anti-Corruption Agency, ACA, the inde- That kind of spending power allowed down Milosevic following disputed Progressive campaigns. said. “Everybody knew what pendent state body charged with polic- the Progressives to mobilise mass ral- elections. But unlike those displays of In parliamentary and presidential was going on when I went ing the financing of political activities. lies, plaster the country with billboards anger, anti-Vucic protests petered out elections in 2012, 98 per cent of 2,300 to“I the bank. They already knew how Parties in Serbia are legally required and smother newspapers with adver- after a couple of weeks. individual donors all gave 19,000 di- the payments were working. Later, I to report campaign cash flows, includ- tisements. Although the role of president is nars. brought them a payment slip as proof I ing donations, within 30 days of any In fact, the party spent 83 per cent of largely ceremonial, critics say the re- The sum of choice was 40,000 dinars paid the money.” election. The agency then publishes its campaign finances on advertising sult paved the way for Vucic to tighten in later campaigns. In 2014, 95 per cent Fearing she might lose her job, the donor names and amounts as part of its alone -- in excess of 5.3 million euros, his grip on power in a country where of more than 2,800 donors gave that woman declined to be identified. She routine vetting of campaign finances. more than the combined total spend- political patronage and clientelism go amount, while in 2017 the proportion said she saw party officials ask others But this list was like no other. ing of all other candidates. hand in hand with creeping authori- was 98 per cent of almost 7,000 givers. at meetings to make similar donations. For one thing, 98 per cent of individ- tarianism. The exception was parliamentary “If I didn’t do it, someone else would, ual donors to the Progressives gave pre- ‘CLEAN AS A WHISTLE’ “The results have destroyed the in- elections in 2016, when the Progres- so what can I say?” cisely the same amount: 40,000 dinars. stitutions of parliament and govern- sives received just 17 donations, all of An investigation by the Balkan In- So many, in fact, that it took the agency In the end, Vucic won with a crush- ment, which are now functions of the 40,000 dinars. Most campaign cash vestigative Reporting Network, BIRN, a week to enter the 6,789 names into its ing 55 per cent of votes after an elec- president,” said Zoran Gavrilovic, direc- that year came from the party’s own shows that hers was not an isolated online database. tion that monitoring groups said was tor of the Bureau for Social Research, a resources, following a change in the case but part of a pattern by the Pro- There was nothing illegal in the sums. marred by vote-buying, intimidation Belgrade-based think tank. law allowing the mixing of regular and gressives of using proxy donors to Under Serbian law, individuals can give and control of the media. The second- With parliamentary elections not campaign funds. disguise the true source of campaign political parties up to 20 times the aver- placed candidate got 16 per cent. due until 2020, Vucic and the Progres- The ACA has long had reason to be gifts -- illegal under Serbia’s law on the age monthly salary, which was almost “Particularly widespread … were re- sives now look unassailable. suspicious of Progressive donors. financing of political activities. 385 euros in March. And unlike other ports of pressure on employees of state In 2012, the agency flagged 33 dona- While it was impossible to trace the countries in the region, Serbia has no and state-affiliated institutions to sup- FINANCIAL FINGERPRINTS tions to the party from people who provenance of cash suspected of being limit on overall funds parties can col- port Mr Vucic and secure, in cascade were on state benefits, according to a laundered through fake donors, the in- lect for campaigning. fashion, support from subordinate em- As the face of Serbian hopes of join- report it published on its website after vestigation found evidence of system- But it is a criminal offence, punish- ployees, family members and friends,” ing the European Union, Vucic has pro- the election. atic flouting of the law by the party in able by up to five years in prison, to try the Organization for Security and Co- jected an image of stable leadership in a “Certain contributions of these people this and previous elections. to hide the source of donations. operation in Europe said in a report turbulent region even as critics at home amount to 50 per cent or more of yearly A day after BIRN made its findings Many people contacted by BIRN published in June. accuse him of rigging the system in the welfare received,” the agency said, trig- public, Vucic said his party’s finances declined to comment, but five inde- At 10.25 pm on April 2, shortly after ruling party’s favour. gering speculation that the oddly mu- were “clean” and described the Progres- pendently confirmed they were given the results were in, Vucic stood at a He became prime minister in 2014, nificent welfare recipients were actually sives as the only party that could make 40,000 dinars by party officials to do- podium at Progressive Party headquar- a watershed year in which the Pro- surrogates for secret donors. such a claim. nate to the Progressives in 2017. ters in Belgrade’s business district. The gressives won the first absolute ma- BIRN’s investigation revealed the The investigation also highlighted a All wished to remain anonymous. man who had served as information jority in parliament since the ousting agency also had serious concerns culture of impunity. “They called one night and told me minister for Serbian strongman Slo- of Milosevic. Vucic had previously about the 2014 campaign after a tip-off BIRN can reveal that anti-corruption to come to the party office,” one man, bodan Milosevic in the late 1990s was served as defence minister and depu- from a separate state body, the Admin- authorities wanted prosecutors to 27, said. “There were no more explana- no stranger to soundbites. ty prime minister following 2012 elec- istration for the Prevention of Money launch criminal proceedings in relation tions on the phone.” His victory was “clean as a whistle”, tions that made the Progressives the Laundering, responsible for financial to suspected illegal activity during elec- Collectively, the Progressive’s army he told journalists. ruling party. intelligence. tions in 2014, but not one person has been of curiously uniform individual donors The next day, thousands of demon- Suspected money laundering Four days after the election, the ACA indicted, casting doubt on the independ- contributed more than two million euros strators, mostly young people, took to marred both those polls. Other parties learned of 135 bank transactions in ence of Serbia's prosecution services. to Vucic’s campaign -- more than a third the streets in cities all over Serbia, blow- had suspicious donors too, including which people had deposited 40,000 of his overall war chest of 6.5 million eu- ing whistles and banging pots. companies that gave generously de- dinars into their accounts and imme- MYSTERIOUS LIST ros. Most of the rest came from the state “Vucic, you stole the election,” pro- spite posting losses. But the Progres- diately transferred the same amount to budget in line with election rules. testers chanted. “Do you sleep well, Kim sives were unique in having thousands the Progressives as donations. In Serbia, BIRN tracked down the The total was considerably more Jong Un?” one placard read, comparing of contributors who gave exactly the Almost three years later, in March, teacher and four others who admit- than the combined income of all 10 oth- Vucic to North Korea’s leader. same amounts. the ACA submitted a report to pros- 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Usce Park Makeover 'Will Cut Green Spaces' An ambitious plan to transform Belgrade's largest park has been praised by many, but some say it will reduce the amount of public green space in the city.

Milan RADONJIC ahead and plan those changes by thinking about the future of the city," he tidal wave of massive Maric warns. redevelopment sweeping Slobodan - Gisa Bogunovic author across the city has now of the Architectural Encyclopaedia of reached its largest park: Belgrade and member of the Serbian Usce, which covers 88 Academy of Architecture told BIRN Thectares of ground between Branko's that the Gehl team delivered a soft, non- Bridge and the Hotel Yugoslavia, in- invasive solution, completely in co- cluding quays and promenades on herence with the philosophy of urban both the Danube and Sava rivers. landscapes adjusted for the tempo of The ambitious plan to redesign the walking and bicycle riding. park, known locally as Belgrade's Cen- "The greatest value of the Gehl team 'Wild' Flea tral Park, was presented by famous project are the consideration towards Danish architect Jan Gehl in March this Usce Park as inherited green and pe- year. Belgrade Mayor Sinisa Mali an- destrian oases, coupled with the way it nounced the first part of the redevelop- improves links between New Belgrade Market Razed ment – focused on the Museum of Con- and the river banks," he says. temporary Art - is due to be completed However, there is some criticism of by the end of October. the project. Not least that the water- For New City The entire revamp will take three themed area plan does not seem to years to complete, according to City take into account Belgrade's reality, The works carried out by JKP "Zelenilo - Beograd" at Usce Park, including concreting wide paths and Photo: BIRN/Milan Radonjic Hall, and is divided into seven themed fencing off trees, make many question the ecological value of the project. such as the fact that none of the city's zones: Movement, Nature, Serbia, Wa- sewage is treated before it reaches the Development ter, Music, Art and Science. After Gehl delivered and presented NEW ATTRACTIONS of the rest of New Belgrade which has waters of Danube. The park will also feature new foot- the initial plan for the park reconstruc- grown significantly over the past dec- "So this basically good solution, di- paths, cycle lanes and various sport facil- tion, the project was taken over by the The park is set to feature new at- ade," he says. vided in thematic sections, seems to be The remnants of the now eradicated flea market at New Belgrade was still visible when BIRN visited the area on October 17. Photo: BIRN/Siri Sollie ities. More street lighting will be installed Urban Planning Institute of Belgrade, tractions, including a Ferris wheel, an Today, however, given plans to ex- incompatible with our reality and our throughout the park, which is currently the body responsible for delivering the aquarium and a cable car over the Sava pand the Museum of Contemporary experience of that space," Bogunovic Police "I never liked this part of the market. year and will last 18 months, two years about the profiles of people selling unsafe to walk through after dark. Detailed Development Plan for Usce connecting Kalemegdan Fortress to Arts from 5,000 to 25,000 square me- explains. "For instance, the final point It smells," says 34-year-old Petar Dakic, from now Belgrade will have a new their possessions at the flea markets "We were interested in the recon- Park. They started work as soon as they Usce Park. tres, the expansion of the Usce shop- of the new water zone of the park, at the eradicated the an artist and collector from Belgrade. [bus] station," Belgrade Mayor Sinisa around the city. struction of Usce Park as it was quite got the initial plan, which they are de- Igor Maric, Assistant Director of the ping mall and the construction of new place of confluence between the Sava He makes a scouring for useful parts Mali stated at the time, according to They range from people who don't deteriorated, but we also often publicly veloping as the work continues. Institute of Architecture and Urban buildings for the Belgrade Philhar- and the Danube, is the actual location much-beloved and trading the collectibles he finds daily newspaper Blic. have anything to eat, selling whatever advocated for the necessary protec- The person in charge of the project at Planning of Serbia, is in charge of the monic Orchestra and the Natural His- of the whole of New Belgrade's waste at various flea markets, including the Mali pointed out that this is one of they can find in their apartment or in tion of the Park of Friendship [part of the institute, Natasa Danilovic-Hristic, cable car project. tory Museum, Maric says the park's water output into the river." – yet illegal – flea buvljak at Zemun Polje, the buvljak in the most important projects in the city I would buy parts of a garbage cans, as well as Roma with Usce Park] which has more than 100 told BIRN that Gehl has provided them "The cable car will be a tourist attrac- concrete-free, green zones are being According to a city development Pancevo, and this one that was here in and will completely relieve the centre connections in Western Europe who trees planted by politicians and heads with a new, attractive and interesting tion… and it is also really necessary, as significantly reduced. plan devised more than ten years ago, market (buvljak) New Belgrade. of its heavy city bus traffic. lamp, and add bring goods back to Serbia. "Gypsies of states from countries all over the project that will deliver, most impor- today crossing over Branko's Bridge is "We have positive development, as the initial blocks of a new sewage treat- Despite an ambivalence to the cur- While the concrete plans have been there who have connections fill up world," Dejan Krajinovic, editor-in-chief tantly, an accessible park. not adequate for pedestrians. It is too these are objects dedicated to culture, ment facility should have been built in New Belgrade rent ambience, Dakic has made de- on the table since summer, the vast some interesting their vans and send them [goods] over of the Beobuild website that is focused "The plan has accented the necessity of polluted, too loud and too narrow," says tourism, and in general we have posi- there by now. However, it has never at the beginning cent money from the various wares parking lot which continued to be a here." He also says thieves try to sell on the urban and infrastructure devel- the park's integration with the surround- Maric. tive economic effects from them, but been built and is rarely discussed in being sold, remaking them into arte- beloved "wild" market lies empty and wooden elements and recently-acquired items, and migrant opment of the city, told BIRN. ings, given proposals for introducing new He believes Usce Park was never the green areas are being reduced. This public. of the month to facts which he sells at online outlets, flat, waiting for the works to begin. make it 'wow', you workers [Gastarbeiter] offload outdat- "This is one of Belgrade's tourist treas- content and attractions, while setting the properly developed because of its prox- is why I think it would be prudent if we "So in order to deliver a good project or to private collectors and owners of Most people have now been moved ed EU goods. ures. We are glad to see it will be pro- basic directions and modalities of visi- imity toimportant federal government immediately start making plans for spa- it is not enough to have overall knowl- pave the way for antiquarian outlets. along, and some traders are now sell- know? And for me it However, while they can no longer tected by the new development." tors' movements, the same as thematic and Communist Party buildings. cious new parks in the area of New Bel- edge, sometimes it is necessary also "I would buy parts of a lamp, and ing their goods underneath the New use this specific location, there still Krajinovic says that Gehl delivered a content development," she said. "It was kind of a forbidden space and grade covering 10 to 20 hectares. to smell the air at the location you are a bus terminal. add some interesting wooden ele- Belgrade train station. costs 300 dinars seem to be plenty of options for the flexible project plan that also respects "Everything is well connected into as such remained underdeveloped, es- "We should not be afraid of change, treating," Bogunovic says, with more ments and make it 'wow', you know? When BIRN visited the area on Oc- daybreak traders. According to Da- local values. one coherent and unique space." pecially in relation to the development but we also need to be able to think than a hint of irony. Siri SOLLIE And for me it costs 300 dinars [2 tober 17, there were approximately and I will sell it for kic, however, every market place in euros and 50 cents] and I will sell it 10-15 people present, including fami- the city is surrounded by illegal trade very day between the for 3,300 dinars [around 30 euros]," he lies, selling bags, shoes, and carpets 3,300 dinars activities, such as the market place at early hours of 6am and says. On top of that, he has made some (among other items). It now also at- Vidikovac, Cvetkova Market and the 9am, men and women fur- brilliant finds. tracts refugees trying to sell baby food, Kalenic Market. ORDER DELIVERY TO tively congregate across He once purchased an innocuous toothpaste and other essentials that Just as was the case with the New Petar Dakic, YOUR DOOR the street from the official porcelain fish ornament. After arriv- they receive in humanitarian centres. Belgrade market, the trading hours Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 ENew Belgrade market, to illegally sell ing home and cleaning it up, he no- artist and private collector wind up when police hit the streets. [email protected] their wares before the police hit the ticed it had been produced by the fa- WHO WILL SUFFER? After 9am there is no sign that a hu- Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight streets. Or rather, they did – until very mous Hungarian brand "Herend". man was ever on site, except the un- recently. "I went on eBay to see what the The illegal flea market at Block 42 wanted goods and the lingering smell On October 9, the city government porcelain was worth and saw an was a long-standing problem in the of the discarded garbage that Dakic so MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL started a week-long mass cleaning item worth $420. I examined the fish city, not only because of the allegedly dislikes. Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla operation to purge the parking lot of and noticed that it was completely stolen goods being distributed, but Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temisvarska 19 Pupina 10v garbage and various artefacts that whole with no damage, it was well also because of the pile of garbage that HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A tradespeople and members of the preserved," he says. "Here in Serbia the sellers and members of the Roma Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA Roma community – who were also liv- it doesn't have a much value, but it community left behind. SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 ing there – had left behind. would be possible to sell [it] for 100 eu- Initially located under the railroad HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 The city plans to build a new bus ter- ros. And I think, I gave 100 dinars [80 overpass, the stalls moved further Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac SERBIA minal on the premises of the parking cents] for this," he says. along the pavements after the con- Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD lot as part of the ambitious Belgrade When construction on the new bus struction of the Terazija replica close CAFE SNEZANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE Waterfront project. It will become the terminal begins, Dakic will have to to the train station. However, after the NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 central bus transit point in Belgrade. stick to the other flea markets in Bel- Terazija replica was destroyed, sellers FOR DANCE Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade Nowadays, only a dozen or so peo- grade, which will no doubt become a moved returned to the land sched- Address: Kolarceva 3 KOLARAC ple materialise every morning in the little more crowded now this one has uled to become the new bus terminal. BISTRO BAR Skadarska 32 Address: Studentski trg 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarceva 7 hope of finding buyers for odd bags gone. Representatives of the Belgrade Land Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU +381 62 350 002 Address: Aerodrom pult and shoes. A popular fixture among City government officials signed a Development Public Agency renewed [email protected] HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 locals with a good eye, there are those deal worth 25 million euros with Bel- their efforts to remove them. Address: Kneza Milosa 5 SKVER 44 FLY FLY TRAVEL CREATING YOUR MEMORIES who won't necessarily miss aspects grade Bus Station AD on July 4. "The With 15 years of experience in his Address: Pozeska 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 of it. works will start before the end of the profession, Dakic knows a thing or two 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 7 SERBIA BUSINESS

COMMENT Serbsplaining the West

piness abroad and how living in Serbia was to blame for every problem in their lives. Modern Even more level-headed Serbs would agree that a job in the West means that Serbia's one will perennially enjoy a blissful, materially comfortable existence. The perception of Westerners who dare complain about their home countries are perceived as life in the West whiners and are often reminded of how much better they have it. Serbs who de- has played cide to come back here are, of course, seen either as failures or insane. a key role in One drawback of the West that even pro-Western Serbians might allow is that there is a whole lot of working shaping the done out there. Work, they often note, might be good for the pocket but too nation. much of it means that there is not enough time to devote to 'the soul', which we seem to think is nourished in equal parts by spending time with the family and by getting wasted par- tying until dawn. This perception is tied to the belief that the Westerners, removed from "real life" by dutiful toiling in their al- Serbia's most-perfect societies, are generally unable to enjoy or even navigate Serbia and its perceived chaos. While we are growing accustomed to seeing tourists, Newly Mighty we are still perplexed if anyone from the West moves here and immediately volunteer life advice. Due to this belief, any positive reports Dinar intrigues about Serbia from Western journalists or celebrities are a cause of great joy and often make the front pages of our Srdjan GARCEVIC newspapers, while anything negative Experts is explained away by the lack of under- rom the early days of standing of our situation or appropriate modern Serbia, and ar- sensibility. Economic analyst Milan Culibrk believes that an inflow of short-term speculative foreign capital, seeking a quick profit from government securities, is the key factor in the dinar's strengthening. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade guably before, Serbian This often trickles down to personal perceptions and ex- interactions where I have witnessed pectations of 'the West' many of my Western friends subjected Experts attribute the strengthen- have converted foreign currency into were in many ways to usually well-meaning but overzeal- Serbia's national ing of the national currency to Serbia's dinars to invest in government bonds or though there is no real strength in the inextricable from how ous interrogations of what they do and currency is restrictive monetary policy and mac- treasury bills," he explained. Serbian economy to support that trend," SerbiansF perceived themselves. Ser- don't like in Serbia. roeconomic stability, but also to the fa- "This has increased the supply of for- he added. bian uprisings against the Ottomans The obsession with western judge- vourable interest rates offered on state eign currency, which has prompted the were from the outset imagined as a way ment is even more understandable, giv- strengthening securities that may have attracted specu- NBS to intervene several times, by pur- COSTS AND BENEFITS for Serbia to re-join and catch-up with en that most Serbs often see the West lators looking for quick profits. chasing foreign currency, to prevent the its Christian brethren from the West, Even if Serbia is still seen as politically torn between Russia and the West, Photo: Flickr/Kristoffer Trolle as an almost omnipotent determinant markedly, but They also warn that while a stronger dinar from strengthening even more," he Culibrk said the current rise in the di- Serbians overwhelmingly think that the West is where the good life is. who were expected to embrace it with of life in Serbia, more powerful than whether this dinar benefits debtors and lowers the told BIRN. nar could easily be reversed if the inter- open hands. Western movie stars and musicians to ately aped their Western counterparts. justed GDP per capita data provided by any local force, and perhaps only chal- cost of imports, it will likely have a nega- In a statement on its website in August, It seems like est rates start to drop, which would fuel After the last Ottoman soldiers left dazzle the crowds, while most of its citi- Even if Serbia is still seen as politi- the World Bank) are slightly more than lenged by Russia. While those with anti- is because of tive effect on exporters that the country the NBS also attributed the strengthen- demand for euros and cause an outflow Serbian cities in 1867 and until World zens relished the fact that they could cally torn between Russia and the West, a third of the EU average and less than a Western feelings see it as a nefarious needs more of. ing of the dinar to higher demand for the dinar is of foreign currency. War II, it was unquestionably the West, hop to Trieste to buy the latest Western Serbians overwhelmingly think that quarter of the US average, this is hardly puppet master trying to cut Serbia to its healthy macro- On October 16, the medium exchange state securities along with the improved While noting that trends are hard to meaning Western Europe and North fashions and appliances. the West is where the good life is. surprising. Due to these significant dif- shape, pro-Western Serbs see it as a be- rate of the dinar against the euro was macroeconomic situation and improved the strongest predict, Grubisic recalled also the sea- America, where Serbians looked to for Milosevic's regime vilified the West A recent poll produced for West-lean- ferences the West is seen as a land of nevolent, but potentially disinterested, economic indices 119.33, which was 3.1 per cent up on its av- indices of foreign trade. sonal factors that may cause the dinar to ideas on how to organise their state, and its values as it sank into autocracy ing Belgrade think-tank the Centre for milk and honey, with little or no eco- deity which needs to be appeased by a erage value in 2016. "The stability in the foreign exchange currency in the depreciate. build their cities, and live their lives. and rabid nationalism, however, even Euro-Atlantic Studies (CEAS) to analyse nomic hardship. sufficient number of Pride parades and or is down to Its peak value on February 3 was 124.01 market has also contributed to the great- "Near the year-end, foreign companies, Even when Serbia's relationship with the isolation under sanctions never the growing influence of Russia in Ser- Related to material well-being is war crimes arrests if we want it to lift us dinars for 1 euro. Its lowest value was on er confidence of foreign portfolio inves- world, even especially banks, close their balance the West was strained, during socialism weakened the dazzle of the Western bian politics, suggested that 70 per cent the belief, especially among liberal, from our misery. speculators is September 20, when it stood at 118.93 to tors … and their increased investment in sheets and the state pays for imported and Milosevic's rule in 1990s, the idea lifestyle for Serbians. Regardless of of Serbs aged between 18 and 35 would pro-Western Serbians, that the West is It is needless to say that the real West 1 euro. Serbia's long-term dinar securities," the though there is energy, which could lead to a slight weak- of living like the West was used as a their opinion of Milosevic, throughout choose a Western state model over a almost a perfectly arranged social sys- always falls short of our outsized ex- In 2016, the dinar fluctuated between NBS wrote. ening of the dinar," he suggested. yardstick for development. the 1990s Serbians desperately tried to Russian one. Even more would choose tem, almost completely devoid of the pectations, mostly built on pop culture harder to call. 121.51 on January 4 and 123.95 on June 27. Milan Culibrk, economic analyst and Grubisic said that a strengthened di- While shunning capitalism, social- get their hands on pirated VHS copies of Western countries for studies and work pitfalls that plague our own. Not only do and short visits, rather than real experi- To mitigate the large fluctuations in the the editor-in-chief of the weekly NIN, be- no real strength nar could increase Serbia's foreign trade ist Yugoslavia from the 1960s proudly American blockbusters and smuggled over Russia. we think that there is no corruption or ences and facts about this diverse col- exchange rate, the NBS intervened on the lieves that an inflow of short-term specu- deficit, but noted that assessments of the flaunted its relative Westernness com- instant coffee, while the government- These poll results are supported by cronyism, but many believe that all ad- lection of countries. Sometimes the US foreign exchange markets by purchasing lative foreign capital, seeking a quick in the Serbian trade balance would have to wait until pared to other socialist and commu- controlled media promoted Versace- the fact that Western Europe and North ministrative tasks are completed with elects a dangerous buffoon to lead it, or Stevan VELJOVIC 1.125 billion euro and selling 345 million profit from government securities, is the the end of the year. nist countries. It worked hard to attract clad turbo-folk starlets who still desper- America are where Serbs move to seek perfect efficiency and fairness. the UK outplays its cards, or it turns out euro by mid-October. key factor in the dinar's strengthening. economy to Former National Bank governor Dejan a better life. For all the Slavic and Or- Some let their imagination run even that Scandinavians can indeed party. fter a period of relatively "With 5-per-cent interest rates on se- Soskic meanwhile told TV N1 on Septem- thodox connections, Russia is not even wilder. Even when these facts filter down to stable value, the Serbian CURRENCY OWES RISE curities and 5 per cent on interest rates, support that ber 21st that a stronger national currency ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ in the top 10 countries with the largest Once a boy of about 10 whom I met us, they barely change our perception dinar started to strength- TO MANY FACTORS such investors can make a profit of 10 per trend. would make local products and ser- ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Serb diaspora, according to 2007 esti- in Belgrade complained about the lack of the wealthy, all powerful and slightly en against major world cent," he noted. "This is an opportunity vices less competitive in the world and mates by the Serbian Ministry for Di- of satisfactory romantic matches in soulless West because, as these things currencies in 2017. Zoran Grubisic, professor at the Bel- that is rarely found, given that globally, at home, while benefiting importers and RESTAURANT KOVAČ aspora, quoted in a 2008 International his school. He said that he thought he go, the imagined West in Serbia is built ASince February, the dinar strength- grade banking academy, attributes the interest rates are at an almost record low those earning in dinars and with debts in modern ethno restaurant Organization for Migration report. would find Western girls more agree- on our hopes and anxieties, rather than ened in real terms against all leading rise in the value of the dinar to a mix of level," he explained. euro. Given that this high regard for the able, and was gravely disappointed whatever actually happens in London, world currencies, including the euro, the factors, including Serbia's overall macro- Culibrk added that this argument is Culibrk, however, notes that exporters West is often at odds with Serbia's po- when I told him that they were not that New York or Berlin. Swiss franc and the US dollar, by 4 per economic stability, lower referent inter- also backed by the fact that Serbia's for- are in the minority in the Serbian econo- litical choices and global allegiances, it different from the ones here. cent, 10 per cent and 14 per cent respec- est rates, restrictive monetary policy and eign exchange reserves are increasing as my, whose perspective is often neglect- is important to analyse what the West It is not only children who see life Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a tively. low inflation. the inflow of capital exceeds the outflow. ed, while the majority of people stand to actually means for Serbs. in the west as a panacea. Serbian tab- founder of The Nutshell Times blog. Before the dinar strengthened, the Grubisic added that it had made gov- "On the one hand, Serbia has one of the Milan Culibrk benefit from a stronger dinar. First and foremost, the West in the loids regularly feature tear-wrenching last time the average monthly exchange ernment securities more attractive for lowest growth rates in the region, and on economic analyst and the "A strengthened dinar benefits most Serbian imagination is characterised yet determined letters of soon-to-be The opinions expressed in the Com- rate for a euro was below 120 dinars was investors. the other, since February, the dinar has companies, citizens and the state – all editor-in-chief of the weekly NIN Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 by its wealth. Given that living stand- emigres, writing to say how they are ment section are those of the authors more almost three years ago, in Novem- "Serbian securities have seemed a strengthened. It seems like the dinar is those who have loans indexed in euros www.restorankovac.com ards in Serbia (measured by price-ad- leaving their home country to find hap- only and do not necessarily reflect the ber 2014. favourable option to investors, so they the strongest currency in the world, even or US dollars," Culibrk concluded. views of BIRN. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 9 REGION FACES THE SHOW ALWAYS IN PICTURES: HAS TO BE INSIDE ATHENS' HIDDEN 'MOSQUES' EDGY

whole system from overheating, Kesic says that it's in- The uncrowned teresting when people start labelling you both ways: "All of the sudden we are the alibi that there is no king of Serbian TV censorship, or the security valve for the system. If someone thinks that is true, then fine, but we are comedy, Zoran Kesic, not responsible for that." "Our idea has remained the same since we started talks about his TV the show up to today's 116th episode. We want to criti- cize what we perceive as stupid and malicious. We show 24 Minutes, want to have fun and fight against wrong things with satire. How this is perceived is not our problem." politics as an eternal In his opinion, the only logical reaction of a thinking person in the current situation is to try source of inspiration, and express oneself with humour and fight what you dislike. his critics, and his The lack of serious critique in Serbia is a prob- lem but that sort of work is not his thing, he says: deep affection for his "We are into humour, and I believe we should not give up our work because someone else is not city and country. doing his [work], and decide to close down our show and make programs about agriculture, chil- dren, animals, or baby animals. I do not think we are a tranquilizer for the society. We are just doing Milan RADONJIC our job. We are telling the truth." Siri SOLLIE ARMY OF LITTLE SHERIFFS or TV star Zoran Kesic and his crew, politics is an endless source of inspira- The star of 24 Minutes told BIRN he doesn't no- Zoran Kesic, in his sarcastic 24 Minutes show on June 20, Photo: Facebook/ 24 minuta sa Zoranom Kesicem tion, mostly because it is often funnier tice people fearing to speak out in private. But it is a portrays the violent attacks on Danas journalists right after that any satire could be. different picture in public: President Vucic’s inauguration in June. His show, 24 Minutes, has ratings that "People are afraid that criticism of the govern- areF three or four times higher than any other show ment could cost them their position, salary, or to read them in front of the class. I liked that; it was Kesic says he tries to make sure his show is not Thousands of Muslims living in the Greek on O2 Television, making it a valuable marketable even their existence and therefore even their fam- my first public appearance. But being a journalist vulgar, even if it deals with such individuals or asset. ily. This is huge problem in the media. In Belgrade, was a bit boring, so I created my own stories. I made behaviour. "On our show, I use foul language ex- capital use makeshift rooms to pray, awaiting "I like to annoy people who are not good or hon- we are protected in this respect. But you learn up news, edited them by myself, so I was always tremely rarely, of course with one exception, when est. I like to bother them. If I can't do anything else about this when someone like this arrogant May- something in between journalist, author and actor." I quote MPs in the Serbian Parliament," he says. the opening of the city's first proper mosque, to them, I can disturb them. So we are here, bother- or of Subotica comes along, and then you realise He says this level of creativity was not always "It is pointless if we do the show in some calm ing those people," he says. that the whole of Serbia is occupied by these little welcomed. He sometimes got thrown out of edit- flow. If it is not sharp and on edge, it is not our show. which is due to take place by the year's end. Serbia's political scene seems to be great for 24 sheriffs, local Tutankhamuns. In such a small com- ing rooms. But this has not put him off, as televi- We have to be funny and make people laugh, even Minutes but not so good for him as a citizen, he ad- munity [as Subotica] I am not sure if I would dare sion is his great love. if this laughter is a little bit bitter." Demetrios IOANNOU mits: to bark so loud." "Our Foreign Minister, Ivica Dacic, is great ex- Diversity is what he also likes about Belgrade, as he absence of a proper mosque Work started last November and was due to ample. He may not know much English, 'but look: well as its climate. Kesic grew up in Vracar, which for over two centuries has finish by April 2017, but has been delayed. The he can sing, he can dance!' Defence Minister Alek- is where he lives today with his family. He is par- forced Muslims in Athens to find authorities now say the mosque should open sandar Vulin is also great value. I have noticed that ticularly fond of Tasmajdan but also of Zemun. alternative ways to follow their and be ready for use by the end of this year. as soon as I mention his name, people start laugh- "I never lived in Zemun but every time I go there faith. By transforming rented In the meantime, an estimated 100 or more ing." I have fun. My perception of Zemun is purely he- Tapartments, underground garages or base- makeshift mosques exist and operate in sev- He says he criticizes things that are wrong pre- donistic, as I never get back sober." ments into places of worship, they created eral neighbourhoods of the city. The majority cisely because he loves his country and wants to Talking about the pleasant part of fame, Kesic quiet places to pray, usually hidden behind can be found in mainly immigrant neighbour- make it better: says that while he was not married and doing closed doors and heavy curtains. hoods, such as Kypseli or Kato Patisia, which "I wonder if anyone really thinks that we do not Fajront Republika show, most of his fans were Athens and the Attica region surrounding are home to many people from war torn like our country, nation, or the average Serb. It's a female students aged between 20 and 30. Now, it today are home to more than 200,000 Mus- regions or from countries blighted by poverty really frightening thought." he says, it's middle-aged woman and children: "I lims, according to the Muslim Association of in the Middle East and North Africa. Kesic says that this perception actually angers guess those younger ones have found some new Greece. Yet, the Greek capital is perhaps the Only three of those mosques have been him, as does feeling the need to explain himself to favourites," he laughs. last European capital not to have an official granted a licence to officially operate as those who doubt his patriotism. The real reason for his success, he says, are his mosque. And that is the way it has been since a place of worship. Once the new official "It hurts to think there are real people who per- spontaneity and "the natural charms of my per- START YOUR AUTUMN SKIN PREP the end of Ottoman rule and the birth of inde- mosque opens its doors, many of the make- ceive me like that. Really, I am proud of my coun- sonality." Vitamin C anti-aging treatment + facial for just 5000 rsd pendent Greece some 200 years ago. shift ones will be forced to close. Although there are mosques in try and of Belgrade and I have never even consid- "And why not say my pleasant appearance? For The last two mosques built during the Ot- According to the Ministry of Education, northern Greece and on the islands ered going someplace else to live." instance, those News Bar [satirical show in Croatia] toman era in downtown Athens today serve Research and Religious Affairs, only those close to Turkey, the two mosques He says that when he and his crew make their guys – they are good, but ugly beyond belief!" built in the centre of the Greek capital as a museum and an exhibition venue. sites that fulfil the requirements set by Greek show they are surrounded with likeminded peo- under Ottoman rule, Tzistarakis and In August 2016, however, the Greek parlia- law may continue operating as places of wor- Fethiye mosques, are now museums, ple, and so it is easy to enter into the "beautiful illu- EVEN IF THE LAUGHTER IS BITTER ment approved plans to construct the first ship. The requirements, among other things, leaving Athens without any official sion" that no one in this country is watching Turk- government-funded mosque at Votanikos, include compliance with rules of public mosque. ish TV and reality shows, "and that no one is voting A TV person all the way, having worked on this BEAUTY SALON ON VRACAR IN THE HEART OF BELGRADE near central Athens. order and safety. idiots into the parliament". But it is not reality. for over 20 years, Kesic made his debut in Studio B, Kneginje Zorke 96, Tel/011 308 7824; 060 0700868 Photos: BIRN/ Demetrios Ioannou Asked about what he thinks of those who, con- where his mother got him into an audition: www.esteticmoments.rs versely, say he and his team really are pro status quo, "I always liked writing. And there was this tradi- and serve as a kind of security valve, preventing the tion in school for the pupils who wrote best essays 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT HEALTH AND FAMILY Campaigners Raise Funds for Child Cancer Care

money despite the fact she believes the Other public figures have also support- The National new department should really be built by ed the campaign group in other ways, in- the state and not financed by “one asso- cluding famous athletes and trainers. Association ciation made up of a few people”. The well known head coach of the Ser- “But we are proud that our initiative bian national basketball team and former of Parents has triggered an avalanche of people, in- professional basketball player, Sasa Djord- of Children stitutions and other organisations to join jevic, former Yugoslav basketball player us in this pioneering venture. It is this and coach, Duda Ivkovic, and the entire with Cancer great support that gives us the momen- national basketball team donned green tum to fulfil the goals set and to give our gloves for publicity pictures in order to is launching bravest fighters better treatment condi- raise general awareness about child can- tions,” she says. cer and show their support to NURDOR a fundraising Korora says that thanks to donations campaigns, Green fists are used by NUR- from people with “big hearts” in Serbia DOR to symbolise the fight against cancer. campaign to and abroad, the group now only needs to UK musician Joss Stone also lent her raise around 58,000 euros more to fund support and helped raise awareness of build a new the new hospital wing in Nis. According the campaign by posing for publicity haematology and to the official website of NURDOR, the pictures in green gloves. The Exit Festi- estimated total value of the project is just val and Nisville Jazz Festival, as well as oncology unit in over 720,000 euros. numerous companies, have also publicly NURDOR was founded in 2003 by par- supported the group by staging humani- Nis ents and friends of children with cancer. tarian events during festivals and donat- Since then, they have made it their mis- ing some of the proceeds to NURDOR. sion to help the children and their par- NURDOR has offices in all three cities ents throughout Serbia. where children have medical treatment Maja ZIVANOVIC NURDOR is registered as an NGO, and for cancer - Belgrade, Nis and Novi Sad. members of NURDOR are generally par- All in all, Korora says the group has par- This strange rock formation in southern Serbia may be on many tourist brochures but its spooky history is less well known. Photo: Wikipedia/ Dzimi37 he parents of children who ents of children with cancer. It is funded ticipated in 98 campaigns in the last year. have been diagnosed with mostly by memberships and donations, “The number of listed campaigns shows cancer are launching a new and in 2016 it managed to receive around the support we have. The independent ac- campaign to raise funds for a 350,000 euros in donations. tions of citizens, individual companies children’s haematology and In 2016 NURDOR’s campaign for a new and institutions are just a part of the con- Toncology wing of the Clinical Centre Nis. unit at Clinical Centre Nis even garnered tribution to us. Each type of support is Spooky Serbia The campaign will officially launch on the support of the Serbian Health Minis- equally important,” she says. Korora is es- October 30, when two supporters begin try, who said that the VAT would be cov- pecially proud of the high number of vol- The NURDOR green balloons campaign was launched on February 15. Photo: NURDOR their sponsored 200-kilometre walk from ered from the state budget. unteers who support NURDOR. man. In his heyday, every night he rode Belgrade to the southern city of Nis. Campaigners soon attracted support Korora says that the accommoda- The website encourages people to sell She remembers how on February 15, If the traffic jams out of the forest to seduce maidens “Their journey will last eight days, and among Serbs, including many public fig- tion, which can house a maximum of 25 a wide variety of items. “In every house International Childhood Cancer Day, vol- from nearby villages. One night, the vil- we will all be able to support them by ures, and the group now runs several pro- families, is completely free. She adds that we have things that we no longer need. unteers launched green balloons in 40 in Belgrade are lagers, annoyed by his trysts, decided sending a text message to the humanitar- jects, including five Parents’ Houses – three since the doors of all five houses are open You probably have a book that you've al- cities across Serbia to support and raise to cut out tongues from all the roosters ian number NURDOR – 1150. We will be in Belgrade, one in Nis and one in the north- all the time, household maintenance is ready read, toys no-one plays with, a cof- awareness for all children who are fight- not enough to so that Trajan could not return home one step closer to [building] a new depart- ern city of Novi Sad. Children and one par- extremely expensive. fee mill you no longer use, a record you've ing the disease, but also to remember before sunrise, which eventually led to ment that will be completely customised ent can stay in these houses free of charge NURDOR also organised eight rehabili- never listened to because you no longer those who lost the fight against cancer. scare you this his demise. for every child,” Joland Korora from NUR- while the child is receiving treatment. tation camps for children in the past year use a record-player… each of these things Still, Korora says the need for better Although Trajan seems to have been DOR told BIRN. “Long-term oncological treatment out- and another camp for parents who lost a could do a good deed.” treatment for children is dire. According Halloween, head out of the game for centuries, do try to “Humanitarian numbers” are used in side the place of residence and the find- child to cancer. Serbian celebrities have also backed to a report published by the state news avoid the advances of any three-headed charitable campaigns in Serbia, mostly ing of accommodation near the clinic are The group also publishes a number of the campaign and put some of their agency Tanjug on February 15, Serbia has out to these five gentlemen you might pass on your way. for the medical treatment of children. big problem for families of ill children. publications for parents offering useful own items up for sale, including famous the highest rate of cancer mortality in The very act of sending the message is an The goal of opening Parents' Houses is [to information, advice from professionals sports journalist Slobodan Sarenac from Europe. The same day, daily newspaper spooky places in PETROVARADIN automatic donation of roughly 100 dinars offer] help for parents and children dur- including doctors, psychologists, social public broadcaster RTS. Sarenac is sell- Vecernje novosti published a report stat- FORTRESS, NOVI SAD [85 cents]. ing long-term, difficult, exhaustive and workers and nutritionists. ing his commentary box – part of the ing that every day one child in Serbia is Serbia instead. Every year between 20 and 30 chil- uncertain treatment,” NURDOR states on sound equipment he used during his diagnosed with cancer. Best known as the venue of the Exit dren are diagnosed with cancer at the its website. ADS FOR LIFE stint reporting on Serbian sports clubs. NURDOR itself still faces daily chal- Srdjan GARCEVIC music festival, Petrovaradin Fortress in Clinical Centre Nis but, according to NUR- Accommodation in Parents' Houses, It is still on sale and Sarenac is asking for lenges despite recent progress, accord- 2010 caught the eye of a team of para- DOR, conditions for their medical treat- it adds, is important not only as material In addition to the sponsored walk, 250 euros for it. ing to its site. It now needs to focus its SAVA SAVANOVIC'S normal explorers, Ghost Hunters Inter- ment are difficult because of the insuffi- help, but also as a form of social support. NURDOR is also running the Ads for Life Korora says the Ads for Life campaign resources on procuring transportation MILL, ZAROZJE national. They devoted a whole episode cient capacity and a lack of resources for It allows parents to be more relaxed and campaign. People can advertise items for has been particularly well-received, and equipment, establishing camps, and en- of their TV show trying to hunt down its youngsters. more dedicated to their children, and it sale on the Halo Oglasi website, and the underlined all the proceeds will go to the suring medical staff receive high levels of Given that one of the few Serbian words many spectres. Joland Korora, whose own child is a facilitates regular visits by volunteers, proceeds from the sale are donated to construction of the children’s department training and support so it can continue to that made it internationally is 'vampire', it Built between 1692 and 1780, the for- cancer survivor, says they are raising the psychologists and social workers. NURDOR. in Nis. provide the best possible care. is only fitting to start this list with the mill tress was one of the most advanced in where the most famous Serbian vampire the Habsburg lands and served to pro- used to feast on unfortunate locals. tect it from Ottoman attacks. To increase The mill is located three hours from safety, it was fitted with all sorts of secret Belgrade, between Valjevo and Bajina passages including a 16-kilometre net- Basta, in the tiny village of Zarozje. Spook- work of subterranean tunnels. 14-17.12. ily decrepit, it became famous after the According to paranormal experts, publication of a short story by the 19th souls of soldiers who died during battles BELGRADE FAIR In the middle of a forest on Cer Mountain, there are remains of an Photo: Wikipedia/Sasa Dragojevic Century writer Milovan Glisic about Sava ancient fortress, which is said to be the home of Tsar Trajan. at Petrovaradin walk around this laby- Savanovic, a merchant-turned-vampire rinth below the fortress, most which is who chose it for his home. In 1973, the cause of the large population of Serbian jealous lovers who use these spells, do a local fairy, she decided to interfere and currently closed to public. If this is not story was adapted into the cringe-worthy Vlachs, a people closely related to Roma- try to be nice to the locals when you go turned them all into stone. The locals spooky enough, one of the corridors, Serbian horror film Leptirica (She-Butter- nians, who maintained many traditional for a hike, to avoid any magical troubles. still insist that the area is haunted by the marked with a Maltese cross, is allegedly fly) and the village gained even wider customs, some of which date back to pre- Devil and refuse to spend a night there, the place where local Satanists perform fame. Christian times. DEVIL'S TOWN, KURSUMLIJA so don't overstay your welcome. sacrifices, so be careful where you wan- When the roof of the mill collapsed The Vlachs are famous for elaborate der while exploring Petrovaradin. in 2012, the local authorities issued a funerals and celebrations of the dead, This strange rock formation in south- TRAJAN'S TOWN, joke warning that Sava the Vampire was which inspired outlandish stories about ern Serbia may be on many tourist bro- CER MOUNTAIN HALLOWEEN on the prowl, so guard your neck if you posthumous marriages, dancing on chures but its spooky history is less well PARTIES IN BELGRADE: come to visit. graves, and even exhumation of corpses. known. About an hour's drive from Belgrade, These rituals gave rise to the myth of The legend has it that these weird in the middle of a forest on Cer mountain, 27 OCTOBER, Sonja Sajzor Halloween, THE HOMOLJE MOUNTAINS, 'Vlach magic', a mainstay of Serbian tab- rocks are actually petrified remains of a there are remains of an ancient fortress, Drugstore EASTERN SERBIA loids, said to be practiced by crones in cursed wedding party. These poor souls which is said to be the home of a much- 28 OCTOBER, Halloween Freak Show, the Homolje mountains. One of the most drank from a nearby spring, which at- feared mythological creature: Tsar Tra- Fabrika The mountains around the towns of feared and written about hexes in the tracted the attention of the Devil himself jan, a sun-fearing three-headed demon 31 OCTOBER, Halloween Fancy Dress Bor and Zajecar in eastern Serbia have Homolje is 'tying up' (vezivanje), which who decided to cloud their minds and with goat's ears. Party, Vrtoglavica Subculture World long been considered to be the centre of makes a man or a woman incapable of make them try to force a brother and sis- This unusual appearance did not 4 NOVEMBER, Halloween X - The Night magical activity in the country. This is be- love-making. Although it is most often ter into a marriage. Once the word got to stop Trajan from being a bit of ladies' of The Walking Dead, Hangar 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Flamenco Concert Ahead of OPERA, BALLET CLUBBING Belgrade Jazz Fest AND CLASSICAL On October 24, two days before FRIDAY OCTOBER 20 the start of the Belgrade Jazz “Kondenz” Festival of Contemporary AND LIVE MUSIC Fest, flamenco enthusiasts are in

Arts in brief Dance and Performance, Magacin, for a real treat. A concert by two Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 11:30am generations of flamenco masters, 49th Belgrade Music Festival BEMUS, FRIDAY OCTOBER 20 SATURDAY OCTOBER 21 • Mother Engine /D/ & Celestial upright bass player Javier Colina Bridge, Elektopionir, Cetinjska RTS Symphony Orchestra, Yury Revich • Svemirko, The Rogi, Afrodisia, • Ishome live, Grad Cultural 15, 8pm and guitarist Josemi Carmona (violin), Bojan Sudjic (conductor), Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Grad Cultural Centre, Brace Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, featuring percussionist Jose Ruiz • Profond presents James Cole, trg 5, 8pm Krsmanovica 4, 9pm 11:30pm DOT Club, Francuska 6, 11pm Motos known as "Bandolero", will • Battleme, Dom Omladine, • Bisera Veletanlic Night, Dzezva be held at Dom Omladine. Tickets SATURDAY OCTOBER 21 Makedonska 22, 9pm bar, Cara Urosa 19, 8pm FRIDAY OCTOBER 27 cost just four euros. • Amaro Del, Ciglana Klub • Belgrade Funk Combo, Skver “Kondenz” Festival of Contemporary Ljubitelja Teske Industrije, Mire Trailovic, 10pm • About Lorna, Studentski Grad th Dance and Performance, Magacin, rd 13 Kids Fest Kicks Slanacki put 26, 11pm • 3 Belgrade Riot Festival, Dom Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Kraljevića Marka 4-8, 11am and 9pm • The inVISIBLES, Dzezva bar, Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm Djindjica 179, 8pm Off in November LP Duo, Quantum Music - audiovisual Cara Urosa 19, 9pm • Faberzzeova jaja, Club Fest, • M.O.R.T., Grad Cultural Centre, • Jim Walsh, Soul Society, Skver Gradski park 2,10pm concert for two hybrid pianos, Yugoslav Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm From November 1 to 7, children Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 9pm Mire Trailovic, 10pm • Cave Dogs, Elektopionir, • Sonja Sajzor's Halloween: 90s of all ages will be able to enjoy • Stuttgard Online, Club Fest, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Nostalgia, Drugstore, Bulevar a great selection of animated, SUNDAY OCTOBER 22 Gradski park 2,10pm • Mimi Mercedes, Drugstore, KOLARAC Despota Stefana 115, 11pm documentary and feature films • Hurleur + Guests, Elektopionir, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, • MUR & The Purr present “A little music season”, Stana Krstajic courtesy of the 13th Annual Kids Cetinjska 15, 9pm 10pm Lost Frequency, DOT Club, PROGRAMME (flute), Sanja Romic (oboe), Integration • Roman Flügel / Homeboy, • Tranzit Weekend Fever: Klan Francuska 6, 11pm Fest. The festival, which will also Workshop, Savska 9/II, 8:30pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Starcevic takeover, Tranzit, • Drill Halloween W/ Lag & include workshops and many MONDAY OCTOBER 23 Stefana 115, 11pm Brace Krsmanovica 8, 10pm Federico Amoroso, Plastic other events, will take place at • Boza Podunavac all night long, • Ühooda presents Ishome live, Club, corner of Takovska and DOT Club, Francuska 6, 11pm the Children's Cultural Centre, the “Kondenz” Festival of Contemporary Grad Cultural Centre, Brace Dalmatinska street, 11pm • Tranzit Weekend Fever: Milos Krsmanovica 4, 10pm Fontana Cinema in Novi Beograd Dance and Performance, Magacin, • Victor Ruiz, secret location Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 8pm Starcevic & Malina, Tranzit, • Mr. Cash, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, and many other local theatres. • Moscoman / Banda Panda 7 Brace Krsmanovic 8, 10pm 7pm years party, 20/44 Club, Usce There's a special programme for Jovana Lazic (flute), Marko Bogdanovic • Dooshan & Sleepy, Ludost, • Chv, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 7pm bb, 11pm teens this year as well. Check the (piano), Cultural Centre of Belgrade, Trg Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Retrofuture#3, Kvaka 22, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20 Programme: Schuman, Bee- official website for programme Republike 5, 9pm • In Dark Rooms - BASS MAZE, Ruzveltova 39, 9pm, Decanska SATURDAY OCTOBER 28 thoven Grad Cultural Centre, Brace 14, 11pm and prices: kids-fest.com TUESDAY OCTOBER 24 Krsmanovica 4, 11:30pm • Scandinavia Night: Return of Concert Hall, 8pm Production: Music Centre th • Dido & Phillie P, Zaokret, Ravens, Imago CUK, Decanska • Nick Cave and The Bad Seeds, 49 BEMUS - RTS Symphony Admission free New Free Zone Natasa Veljkovic (piano - Mocart, Cetinjska 15, 7pm 14, 11pm Kombank Arena, Bulevar Orchestra Festival Celebrates Chopin), Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Arsenija Carnojevica 58, 9pm Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Ziska, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Mirko Lazarevic, KPTM, Zorza Conductor: Yury Revich, violin FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27 • Bvana iz Lagune, Elektopionir, 13 Years The museum will open at 10am on October 20. Photo: Courtesy of Museum of Contemporary Art • Couple Up, New Season - New Klemensoa 22, 11pm Programme: Damjan Jovicin, N. Cetinjska 15, 9pm “Kondenz” Festival of Contemporary Energy, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa • Party at FOUR | Marko Vukovic Paganini, S. Prokofiev • Antigone <§> all night long, Concert Hall, 8pm One of the top cultural events Dance and Performance, Magacin, 22, 11pm & Poslednji Pionir, KPTM, Production: CEBEF Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 8pm • Harderground Vol.8, Drum Club, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 4am Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Belgrade Philharmonic Orches- in the city, the festival of Stefana 115, 11pm Ticket fees: 600, 800, 1.000 Zmaj Jovina 4, 10pm • Blender ❊ Nick Warren - Cid Inc, tra socially engaged cinema Free Ballet: Queen Margot (Bregovic), The dinars • 2000Late, Hangar, Knezopoljska Hangar, Knezopoljska 3, 11pm • Sint and Pop, Grad Cultural Conductor: Gabriel Feltz Zone (Slobodna Zona), is up for WEEK-LONG National Theatre, Francuska 3, 7:30pm Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 3, 11pm • DJ Ogi Begovski, Ben Akiba, Soloist: Philip Kopachevsky, its 13th edition. The festival takes Brankow, Brace Krsmanovic 6, 10pm 11pm SUNDAY, OCTOBER 22 WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 25 • House Night, piano place between November 1 and Crnogorska 12, 10pm • Not Your Saturday Baby • Buddha Night, Imago CUK, Programme: R. Strauss, P. Kon- 6. Don't miss the chance to see Opera: The Marriage of Figaro (Mozart), • DJ Adam Atomski, Ben Akiba, (House), Mr. Stefan Braun, Decanska 14, 11pm Concert Hall, 11am jovic, A. Scriabin CELEBRATION The National Theatre, Francuska 3, 7:30pm • Mekkanikka, Plastic Club, thought-provoking and touch- Brace Krsmanovic 6, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 12am Cycle: Kolarac Podium of • Hang Over Until Party Is On • DJ Malina, Pivnica Gvozdjara corner of Takovska and Production: Belgrade Philhar- ing films about Mexican singer Dalmatinska street, 11pm Chamber Music Aleksandra Redenković (piano), (House), Mr. Stefan Braun, 1870, Karadjordjeva 43, 9pm monic Orchestra Chavela Vargas, surfer kids in Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski th Duo Guitars Adnan Ahmedic & Nemanjina 4, 12am • Beyond House 6 B-day / Zaltan • Halloween Costume Party, the Gaza Strip, women's rights trg 5,6pm • DJ Ike, Pivnica Gvozdjara 1870, (Antinote.Fra) Ognjem & Ali Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm Fabio Barbagallo FOR MUSEUM SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28 in Switzerland during the 1970s, Karadjordjeva 43, 9pm Güney, 20/44 Club, Usce bb, 11pm Programme: N. Paganini, E. “Kondenz” Festival of Contemporary • B i k i n i (Bgd) Zozo & M-IN SUNDAY OCTOBER 29 Moricone, M. Teodorakis PTSD among men in post- Dance and Performance, Magacin, Concert Hall, 7pm (Istanbul), 20/44 Club, Usce bb, SUNDAY OCTOBER 22 Production: Music Centre conflict areas and much more at Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 7pm th Traditional Music – Gusle 11pm • 33 Belgrade Jazz Festival Admission free various venues across the city. REOPENING • Girls, Boys and Toys, Bitef Art • Tides From Nebula, 2017, Sava Centar, Milentija Production: Gusle Society Vuk Visit the website for more info: THURSDAY OCTOBER 26 Cafe, Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Elektopionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm Popovica 9, 7:30pm Karadzic SUNDAY, OCTOBER 22 freezonebelgrade.org Ballet: Who is singing out there (Kostic), • Poezin Party, Petak Club, • 33th Belgrade Jazz Festival very important Serbian cultural insti- altogether from the main museum The National Theatre, Francuska 3, 7:30pm Lomina 14, 8pm 2017, Dom Omladine, Concert Hall, 8pm SUNDAY, OCTOBER 29 Kenji Nagai at the tution. The museum was closed for building and placed in a separate facility. • Sunday Beat (techno/tech Makedonska 22, 11pc The Museum of Ballet: “The Taming of the Shrew”, The house), Mr. Stefan Braun, • Sunday Beat (techno/tech International Prodigy Orchestra Graphic Collective reconstruction sometime in 2007 with So, what does the Museum of Con- Bolshoi Ballet (live) Cineplexx Usce Nemanjina 4, 12am house), Mr. Stefan Braun, and Choir Concert Hall, 11pm Gallery Contemporary Art promises of a many-million-euro reno- temporary Art have in store for its visi- Shopping Centre, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina • Mostovi i Raskrsca Vol 2 Nemanjina 4, 12am Conductor: Jean Y. Foo Cycle: Kolarac Podium of vation that seemed as if it would never tors after the grand opening? 4, 3:45pm Wolfram / Stepa / Lazar, 20/44 • Wurst Bar Karaoke, Wurst Platz Chamber Music Japanese artist Kenji Nagai is is to reopen with a be completed. This month, ten years Well, first of all, there will be a new Club, Usce bb, 8pm Bar, Makedonska 4, 8pm Sensartika Trio later, Belgraders are finally getting a permanent exhibition of artworks from Trio Vedran Ferizovic Trio (guitar, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 24 certainly not unknown in Serbia double bass and clarinet), Studentski Production: Music Centre multimedia event chance to sneak a peek at the muse- the museum's vaults, some 300 pieces MONDAY OCTOBER 23 – he has already had a couple Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana MONDAY OCTOBER 30 um's remarkable art collection. curated by Dejan Sretenovic, Zoran Concert Hall, 8pm Admission free of exhibitions in the country lasting seven days Djindjica 179, 8pm The collection was first created in Eric and Misela Blanusa. The exhibi- • Anathema, Alcest, Dom • 33th Belgrade Jazz Festival Soloist: Natasa Veljkovic, piano and even received an award 1958, when the museum was still just tion is entitled Sequences. Art of Yugo- FRIDAY OCTOBER 27 Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm 2017, Sava Centar, Milentija Programme: Mozart, Chopin TUESDAY, OCTOBER 31 at the Third Graphics Biennale and seven nights. • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop), an idea, and artworks were collected slavia and Serbia from the collections of FREE COPY Popovica 9, 7:30pm Production: Music Centre in 1994. The exhibition of his Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, th and exhibited as part of the Modern the Museum of Contemporary Art. This Gabriel Feltz (conductor), Filip • 33 Belgrade Jazz Festival Ticket fees: 500 dinars Concert Hall, 8pm latest abstract, nature-inspired 12am 2017, Dom Omladine, Cycle: Editor Author Visiting David GALIC Gallery. The idea behind the collection exhibition's main goal is to reaffirm the Kopacevski (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac • Ivan Radenov, Wurst Platz Bar, lithographs opened on October was to gather and exhibit the crème de importance and role of the museum in Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Makedonska 22, 11pm WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25 Programme: Stravinsky, Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Makedonska 4, 8pm • Johnny L'Ove, Polet, Cetinjska 17 at the Graphic Collective Gal- fter being closed to the la crème of not only Yugoslav and Bal- Serbian and regional art and culture. Mahler, Tchaikovsky, Piazzolla SATURDAY OCTOBER 28 Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 15, 8:30pm lery and lasts until October 28. public for 10 years due kan contemporary art, but also to com- The opening of the exhibition, which TUESDAY OCTOBER 24 Concert Hall, 6pm Production: Music Centre • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop), Entrance is free. to extensive renovation mission and purchase artworks from will at the same time mark the reopen- Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric Soloist: Aleksandra Radenkovic, Ticket fees: 500 dinars Opera: Il Trovatore (Verdi), The National Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Theatre, Francuska 3, 7:30pm BIRN editorial team: • 33th Belgrade Jazz Festival and remodelling works, Europe's most established and respect- ing of the museum itself, will last for 12am piano nd Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, 2017, Dom Omladine, 62 International the Museum of Contem- ed modern artists of the time. seven days and seven nights, meaning • Ivan Radenov, Wurst Platz Bar, MONDAY OCTOBER 30 Makedonska 22, 8pm Book Fair Opens poraryA Art is finally reopening on Oc- Today, the collection has more than that visitors will be able to visit any day, belgradeinsighteditor@birn. Makedonska 4, 8pm eu.com • Haiku Garden + Haze & Ash, tober 20, which is a symbolic date for 8,000 works and offers a unique and any time, day or night, during this pe- Ksenija Celner (sopran), Felix Justin Elektopionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Belgrade as it marks World War II Lib- extremely valuable overview of the lo- riod. Entrance will be free of charge. Sales & Marketing: Marija TUESDAY OCTOBER 31 One of the most popular and (piano), Cultural Centre of Belgrade, Trg • Dizel Night, Mr.Stefan Braun, Republike 5, 8pm Petrovic well-visited cultural events in eration Day. cal, national, regional and international The opening will be accompanied by Nemanjina 4, 12am The museum will open at 10am with contemporary art scene of the 20th and multimedia events connecting the mu- Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Creepy dance, DOT Club, Belgrade, the International Book Dusan Panajotovic (violin), Ivana • Betty Boom, Wurst Platz Bar, a multimedia opening event that will 21st Century. seum with other important, national [email protected] Makedonska 4, 8pm Francuska 6, 11pm Fair kicks off at the Belgrade Pavlovic (piano), Cultural Center of , Wurst Platz Bar, last for – wait for it – seven days and The museum building is, as men- cultural institutions – for instance, the Subscription & Distribution: • Betty Boom Fair on October 22. As always, Belgrade, Trg Republike 5, 9pm Makedonska 4, 8pm seven nights –that's 168 non-stop hours! tioned, a remarkable piece of archi- Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra fea- Goran Knezevic WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 25 the event will host more than TRA T T O R I A For those who are not familiar with tecture. However, it has been through turing conductors Heinz Karl Gruber TUESDAY OCTOBER 31 +381 63 562 265 450 publishing companies, book • 33th Belgrade Jazz Festival WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 1 the museum and its history, this re- a lot since the 1960s, hence the need and Gabriel Feltz and soprano Branisla- [email protected] PIZZER I A stores and cultural institutions Ballet: Don Quixote (Minkus), The 2017, Dom Omladine, markable architectural landmark, lo- for a thorough renovation and even va Podrumac. National Theatre, Francuska 3, 7:30pm Printing: POLITIKA stamparija Makedonska 22, 8pm • Girls are gonna get wild! from Serbia and abroad. This cated on the banks of the Sava river some remodelling. The final stage of The Belgrade Dance Festival will also (House), Mr. Stefan Braun, d.o.o. • Girls are gonna get wild! year, the focus is on German- near the confluence with the Danube in works included the reconstruction bring the celebrated Dresden Frankfurt WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 1 Nemanjina 4, 12am ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade (House), Mr. Stefan Braun, language literature, which means Usce Park, is the work of architects Ivan of the underground facilities of the Mu- Dance Company and their famous di- Nebojsina 8 Opera: La Boheme (Puccini), The Insight Nemanjina 4, 12am plenty of guests from Ger- Antic and Ivanka Raspopovic. Con- seum – storage, workshops, restoration rector, Jacobo Godani, to the museum THURSDAY NOVEMBER 2 011/3863-999 National Theatre, Francuska 3, 7:30pm COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 many, Austria, Switzerland and struction took five years and the mu- ateliers, and so on. to perform. In addition, there will be DJ THURSDAY OCTOBER 26 [email protected] Circulation: 4,000 • Fujiya & Miyagi, Elektropionir, www.restoranamici.rs Lichtenstein will be in attend- seum was first opened to the public in In addition, the roof was repaired, the performances, concerts by local bands THURSDAY NOVEMBER 2 • Akua Naru, Drugstore Club, Cetinjska 15, 9pm ance. One-day admission costs 1965, also on October 20. facade was renovated and some parts of and a special programme for chil- • Phill & Dansmore / Manton, two euros and the fair lasts until It's easy to see that symbolism is the essential infrastructure were basi- dren all taking place during the seven Women in D Minor (Bach) / Long Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, Christmas Dinner (Vivaldi), The National 10pm DOT Club, Francuska 6, 11pm October 29. quite important in the history of this cally redone from scratch or removed days of celebration. Theatre, Francuska 3, 7:30pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 15 GOING OUT THEN AND NOW Kafe Bar Kucica Kucica is a quaint locals' bar that perfectly encapsulates the charm of Belgrade's nightlight beyond the big dance clubs and gaudy riverside splavs.

David GALIC

erhaps it's the fact that these types of places are the polar opposite of what foreigners tend to expect As the Ottoman influence slowly lost its ground in Serbia, the Serbian Christian population during the latter half of Photo: Courtesy of the Ethnographic Museum Serbian upper class women would braid Photo: BIRN/Siri Sollie the 19th century started to wear colorful clothes after hundreds of years of restriction. their long hair around the tepeluk and affix from Belgrade that makes their engagement ring in their hair. Pthese slightly out-of-the-way, family- owned bars so appealing. Located at the end of a dead-end Thursday is a very popular night at Kucica as it arranges quizzes, karaoke and last but not least, Mojito Thursday. Photo: Facebook/Kucica na going out street in the central Belgrade neigh- bourhood of Vracar, close to the famed graffiti on the others. One of the main weather is atypically warm given it is DJ Tuesday nights, where anyone who planned for the week and ask ques- Saint Sava Temple, the location is one of features of the backyard is without late October. thinks they have what it takes (good tions about the programme. Status and Class: Dress the best things about Kucica. It's tucked doubt the large movie screen and pro- However, there's nothing wrong with taste in music above all) can sign up to The atmosphere is very friendly and away in a very quiet part of town but is jector that remains there throughout checking out Kucica when the weather try their hand at spinning tunes for the familiar, the staff are excellent and very still very central and easy to get to. the warm-weather months. is being less cooperative. The inside of night. attentive and the drink prices are very Codes in Serbia Kucica - literally 'little house' in Eng- While they are primarily used to the bar might not be as spacious, but Thursday is a very popular night at modest. lish – has two distinct looks and phases screen films, Kucica is also a great place it's a great place to get a few drinks with Kucica. Not only is it Mojito Thursday, As a small neighbourhood bar, depending on the weather. When it's to watch sporting events – especially friends on any day of the week. where you get two glasses of this popu- Kucica checks all the boxes that you th Siri SOLLIE nice outside, one of the best things ones that involve national teams and The music programme is very casual lar cocktail for the price of one, it's also would expect, and then some, making In the 19 about Kucica is its very spacious back- international competition. and all-encompassing. You won't hear usually reserved for pub quizzes or for it a highly recommend place to visit n 19th Century Serbia, fashion in the However, there was one characteris- gold, appropriate for formal or festive cel- wear a small head ornament: the tepe- yard. Considering how quiet the neigh- There's also a ping-pong table out any Serbian pop or folk pop, but you'll karaoke – both of which are very popu- for people who love this more intimate century, cities was heavily influenced by tic that clothing in rural and urban areas ebrations. luk. The tepeluk was, small round, and bourhood is and how big the yard is, back and, of course, music is played hear just about any type of foreign mu- lar with Kucica regulars. and neighbourly side of Belgrade's married, both European and Turkish-Orien- shared, and that was their relationship to The young woman is also wearing a black often made of silver or gold-plated fili- you almost feel you have left the city – it whenever there isn't a film on the sic you can think of – funk, indie rock, Like most clubs of this ilk, it really is nightlife. tal trends. colour. jacket, or libade, over the dress – as was very gree with typical oriental decoration. I th feels very suburban. projector. The backyard is fantastic. electronic music, soul, hip hop, you all about the regulars. The bar doesn't BAR KUCICA upper-class “Serbian urban dress during the 19 Under Ottoman rule, Serbs and Chris- much the fashion in Europe at the time. Married women would braid their The big backyard is very inviting It accommodates about 50 people name it. even have a real Facebook page, in- Address: Borislava Pekica 15 century was being worn until the begin- tians were forbidden from wearing col- The libade is said to have originated long hair around the tepeluk with rib- with lots of greenery, vines climbing and if you haven't visited Kucica, do One of the cool events that Kucica stead it has an open group where fans Contact: +381 641 139 087 Serbian women ning of the 20th century,” says Vjera Med- ourful clothes that featured red, green in the Levant but those who adopted bons, which they would then circle on a few walls and a bunch of colourful so as soon as possible, given that the is known for is their Play Like a Real of the bar can follow posts to see what's www.facebook.com/barkucica ic, the curator of national dress at the Eth- or any light colours. This was a privilege the style left their own imprint on the de- around their heads. They would also af- braided their nographic Museum in Belgrade. reserved for the Ottoman elite. signs, including in the Balkans. fix their engagement ring in their hair at engagement However, dress codes in rural Serbia In old photos from that time period, The jacket was almost exclusively the centre of their foreheads. 'That Despacito Guy' in Kraftwerk Announce 3-D differed greatly to cities such as Bel- black was clearly the predominant color worn by wealthy Serbian urbanites until Today, Serbian women do not bind ring into their grade. of the day among peasants and city the early 20th century, when it began to their engagement rings in their hair but Belgrade this November Concert Event for 2018 The main distinction was related to dwellers. make an appearance in the countryside. you only have to peek outside the win- hair to display class. The types of gowns favoured by However, these conventions slowly A reminder of how slowly fashion trends dow or take a stroll down Knez Mihajlova ou know the song, even if you hate it, you know the ne of the most influential music groups of the last 50 19th century aristocrats in Belgrade were faded out – in the cities in particular – as were adopted in rural areas. to see what trends Serbian women have song very well. Despacito was an international smash years, and certainly one of the most important pio- their social made with store-bought textiles. Ordi- the Ottomans lost influence in Serbia In the painting, the subject wears a silk adopted today. hit this summer and broke all kinds of records, so neers in the history of electronic music, Kraftwerk nary folk in rural areas made their own at the turn of the last century, as can be ribbon around her chest – called a bajad- One thing that has certainly changed even if you were living in a cave, you probably will be coming to Belgrade next year. They have status to fabric and clothes by hand. seen in the picture on the left. er – that served as a clear status symbol is that ordinary women rarely make know the song. announced a concert event for February 24 that's According to Medic, it took years be- The picture shows a young upper for silk was very expensive at the time. their own fabrics and clothes, as most YIt has over four billion YouTube likes and counting. Justin goingO to take place at the Kombank Arena and should not be society. fore the fashion in Belgrade took hold in class Serb wearing an expensive silk Last but not least, it was also common can be seen darting in and out of popular Bieber did a remix of it, it's literally the most popular song glob- missed. the Serbian countryside. green brocade dress decorated with amongst urban aristocrat women to chain stores such as Zara and H&M. ally, probably since Gangnam Style. In case you didn't know, If you've never seen Kraftwerk live before, you're in for a treat. the guy who sings Despacito is Luis Fonsi, who comes from The group is so special because of the fact that they put as much Puerto Rico. The only natural thing to do was to capitalise on into live performances of their music as they do in the music it- the popularity of the song with a world tour, and that's exactly self. This tour will be especially interesting since the band has an- what Fonsi is doing. He will be playing in Belgrade, at the Kombank nounced a 3-D concert the likes of which they have never done Arena, on November 24. Tickets for the event will cost between €20 before. Tickets for the event cost between €30 and €35 depending and €70 depending on seating. on seating.

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A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM CONTENT IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE Post-Rockers Tides LP Duo Combines Tale of Us Headline Cro-Mags' First Anathema and for in-depth analysis, From Nebula Back Again Piano with Quantum Physics Big Apgrade Party Serbian Gig Alcest at Dom Omladine investigative reports, features, interviews, These Polish post-rockers impressed One of the most exciting chamber Popular dance music duo Tales of Us Even though this concert is not If you love bleak, emotional and atmos- commentary and profiles last year with a fantastic concert at ensembles in the world, LP Duo, are back will be headlining an event staged taking place in Belgrade, it's still pheric rock music, then this concert on the latest business and Elektropionir and they weren't even in Belgrade with an exciting new album by popular dance party promoters very much worth noting. One of the is one that shouldn't be missed. Doom political headlines. playing as a complete band. This to promote. The renowned Serbian duo Apgrade at Hangar on October 28. absolutely most influential bands in metal pioneers and current atmos- time, they are coming back in full composed music inspired by quantum Originally from Milan but currently the history of American hardcore pheric progressive rock favourites force with all members present so physics with the help of Danish compos- residing in Berlin, Tales of Us create punk, the Cro-Mags are playing Anathema, from England, will be it should be even better. Tides from er Kim Helweg and is promoting these very emotional and enigmatic dance Serbia for the first time ever on Oc- playing with French atmospheric post- OTHER SERVICES: Nebula will be back at Elektropi- new musical discoveries on hybrid music that dabbles in techno, house tober 29. They will be playing at the black metal band Alcest as support. onir once again, the show will be on pianos this fall. They'll be at the Yugoslav and disco. Regular tickets cost 10 euros SKCNS Fabrika venue in Novi Sad The show takes place on October 23 at October 22. Tickets cost 10 euros at Drama Theatre on October 21 and tickets while VIP tickets cost 15. Vaal, Tijana T and tickets for the concert cost €16 at Dom Omladine and tickets for this the door. cost between two and six euros. and Akioki will be supporting. the door. special event cost €30 at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 20 - Thursday, November 02, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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